m.m::m 


m  m 


BAILEY  ALLEN 


/B  E  R  K  E  L  E  Y    ^i 

LIBRARY 

I       UNIVMSITY   OF 
V       CALIFORNHA      J 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

AGRICULTURE 
BEQUEST 

OF 
ANITA  D.  S.  BLAKE 


MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK   BOOK 


MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK 
BOOK 


BY 

IDA  C.  BAILEY  ALLEN 

Editor  "Housewives'  Forum,"  Pictorial  Re*ui&vu 

Formerly  Editor  "Three  Meals  a  Day,''  Good  Housekeeping 

Lecturer  for  Chautauqua  and  the  Westheld 

Domestic  Science  Schools 


WITH  AN  INTRODUCTION  BY 

PROFESSOR  LEWIS  B.  ALLYN 

Formerly  Chemist  of  the  Westfield  Board  of  Health 
Food  Editor  of   The  McClure  Publications 


ILLUSTRATED  FROM  PHOTOGRAPHS  BY 
T  L  ALLEN  AND  A.  E.  SPROUL 


BOSTON 
SMALL,  MAYNARD  &  COMPANY 

PUBLISHERS 


Copyright,  1917 
BY  SMALL,  MAYNARD  &  COMPANY 

(INCORPORATED) 


AGRICULTURE 
GIFT 

printers 

J.   rAEKHJLL  &   CO.,  BOSTON,  U.S.A. 


/9 


AGRIC. 
LIBRARY 


TO 

MY  HUSBAND 

WHOSE  FAITH  AND  CONSTANT  HELP  IS  A 
NEVER  FAILING  SOURCE  OF  INSPIRATION 


159 


PREFACE 

*  * 

Each  year  brings  me  thousands  of  letters  from  house- 
wives all  over  the  country,  as  well  as  from  Canada  and 
Mexico,  and  many  from  the  old  world.  Some  of  them 
contain  requests  for  recipes,  but  the  majority  ask  for 
help  in  solving  home  problems  of  finance,  the  prepara- 
tion of  food,  the  saving  of  time  and  energy,  and  the 
institution  of  the  balanced  ration  as  a  means  toward 
economy  and  better  family  health.  Many  others  ask 
about  proper  service,  and  what  foods  should  be  com- 
bined; but  not  a  few  contain  a  little  heart-break,  and 
many  of  them  end  in  this  wise,  "  If  I  had  only  been 
taught  how  to  cook,  and  how  to  do  housework  when  I 
was  a  girl,  instead  of  growing  up  in  ignorance  and  selfish- 
ness, how  much  easier  my  life  would  be  now,  and  how 
much  more  effective  I  should  be  as  a  mother,  a  wife 
and  a  housekeeper !  " 

In  presenting  this  book  the  burden  of  my  message  is: 
Let  every  mother  realize  that  she  holds  in  her  hands  the 
health  of  the  family  and  the  welfare  and  the  progress  of 
her  husband.  It  is  she  who  helps  to  make  brain  and 
brawn.  There  is  no  magic  in  the  work  she  does.  There 
are  no  mortars  and  pestles,  there  are  no  test  tubes  and 
Bunsen  burners.  Her  chemicals  are  foods  pure  and 
simple,  her  equipment,  bowls  and  pans,  kettles  and  a 
range.  With  these  aids  she  must  evolve  a  good  family 
health,  and  in  so  doing  contribute  to  the  health  and  wel- 
fare of  the  nation. 

It  is  a  wonderful  thing  to  be  a  woman ;  it  is  a  wonder- 
ful thing  to  be  a  wife,  but  most  of  all  it  is  wonderful 
to  be  a  mother,  and  the  woman  who  realizes  her  priv- 
ileges and  knows  that  her  daily  work  is  not  drudgery, 
but  that  it  is  constructive  in  the  truest  sense  of  the  word, 
and  who  does  this  work  with  love  and  pride  in  her  heart, 
is  fulfilling  the  highest  destiny  that  a  woman  can  have. 

If  I  were  to  make  a  plea,  I  should  ask  that  every 


PREFACE 

woman  in  this  country,  whether  she  has  the  vote,  or 
whether  she  is  merely  depending  upon  personal  influence, 
should  try  her  utmost  to  introduce  courses  in  domestic 
economy  in  every  school  in  both  city  and  country,  in 
every  prison  and  in  every  reformatory. 

If  I  were  to  put  forth  a  request,  it  would  be  that  every 
woman  in  this  country  make  herself  a  "  pal  "  and  friend 
of  her  daughters  and  her  sons,  and  that  from  little  baby- 
hood up  she  teach  them  the  interesting  processes  of  home 
work  and  cookery,  so  that  there  will  be  a  sound  founda- 
tion for  the  homes  that  are  to  come  and  an  already  es- 
tablished knowledge  that  will  make  possible  glorious 
home  partnership  and  splendid  health  for  the  genera- 
tions that  are  to  be. 

The  author  wishes  to  acknowledge  her  indebtedness  to 
the  Ladies'  Home  Journal,  Pictorial  Review,  Good  House- 
keeping, the  Delineator,  Country  Gentleman,  the  Boston 
Cooking  School  Magazine,  the  North  American,  and  the 
Ohio  State  Journal  for  their  kindness  in  allowing  re- 
prints of  her  various  articles  which  have  been  published 
in  their  columns,  and  for  the  privilege  of  reproducing 
photographs  which  have  been  used  from  time  to  time  in 
their  pages. 

IDA  C.  BAILEY  ALLEN. 


INTRODUCTION 

A  well  rounded  dietary  is  the  only  sensible  one.  While 
we  should  eat  to  live  instead  of  reversing  the  process, 
care  in  selection  and  judgment  in  preparation  make  our 
dietetic  choice  a  matter  of  pleasure  and  profit  as  well  as 
of  duty. 

The  chemical  composition  of  the  body  requires  foods 
of  similar  composition.  The  author  of  this  book  in  a 
delightfully  simple  manner  has  presented  the  problem  so 
that,  generally  speaking,  the  body  may  extract  from  the 
foods  the  maximum  amount  of  building  and  fuel  mate- 
rial with  the  least  expenditure  of  dynamic  energy. 

The  housewife  who  studies  these  chapters  cannot  fail 
to  find  suggestions  adaptable,  economical  and  hygienic. 

It  will,  of  course,  be  understood  that  no  class  of  food 
performs  a  strictly  simple  function.  For  example,  while 
proteins  are  building  foods,  they  also  furnish  a  consider- 
able amount  of  heat  or  energy.  Likewise,  fats  and  oils 
furnish  energy  and,  to  some  extent,  assist  in  tissue-build- 
ing. In  other  words,  any  food  is  likely  to  react  outside 
its  own  class. 

Mrs.  Allen  has  expressed  in  popular  terms  a  simple, 
workable  outline  of  food  combination,  well  adapted  to 
the  needs  of  the  housewife.  If  her  book  is  carefully  fol- 
lowed, the  dietary  of  the  average  family  will  be  much 
improved,  cost  decreased,  and  a  general  gain  in  health 
experienced. 

LEWIS  B.  ALLYN. 

Food  Editor  of  The  McClure  Publications 


Contents 


Chapter 

I 

II 

III 

IV 

V 

VI 


PART   I 

THE  EVERYDAY  CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD  AND  COOKERY 
THE  DIET  IN  SPRING,  SUMMER,  FALL  AND  WINTER 

THE  CHILDREN'S  MEALS 

THE  PROBLEM  OF  THE  DINNER  PAIL  . 
THE  FINE  ART  OF  COMBINING  FOODS  . 
SEASONINGS 


Page 
I 

27 
40 

50 
54 
66 


VII  THE  EQUIPMENT  AND  ARRANGEMENT  OF  THE  KITCHEN  74 

VIII  RANGES  AND  THEIR  OPERATION     ....  85 

IX  THE  SHORT-CUT  PREPARATION  OF  MEALS    .        .  96 

X  THE  SERVICE  OF  HOME  AND  COMPANY  MEALS  .  116 

XI  THE  CHAFING  DISH 123 

PART   II 

I  MEASUREMENTS          .......  131 

II  BEVERAGES 133 

III  FRUITS 144 

IV  CEREALS 159 

V  EGGS  AND  SAVORY  EGG  DISHES     .        .        .        .  170 

VI  YEAST  BREADS 188 

VII  QUICK  BREADS *  218 

VIII  APPETIZERS 233 

IX  SOUPS 240 

X  FISH 269 

XI  THE  FRYING  OF  FOOD 300 

XII  MEATS 316 

XIII  SAVORY  SAUCES .  388 

XIV  POTATOES           . 397 

XV  VEGETABLES 408 


xii  Contents 

Chapter  Page 

XVI  THE  EDIBLE  WEEDS        .        .        .        .        .        .  447 

XVII  SALADS  AND  How  TO  MAKE  THEM       .        .        .  453 

XVIII     SANDWICHES .        .  498 

XIX     DESSERTS 510 

XX     SWEET  SAUCES 555 

XXI     FROZEN  DESSERTS 562 

XXII     CAKE 583 

XXIII  COOKIES,  CUP  CAKES  AND  LITTLE  CAKES    .        .  607 

XXIV  ICINGS  AND  FILLINGS 620 

XXV    PASTRY 630 

XXVI     THE  MAKING  OF  CANDIES 644 

XXVII  CHEESE      .        .        .        .        .        ...        .  66 1 

XXVIII  INVALID  COOKERY  AND  SERVICE    .        .        .        .  674 

XXIX  CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING  .        .        .  687 

INDEX •    .    •       •  725 


List    of  Illustrations 


Mrs.  Allen  in  Her  Own  Kitchen Frontispiece 

FACING  PAGE 

Table  Set  for  Home  Breakfast 36 

After-Dinner  Coffee  Service 36 

An  Adequate  Fireless  Cooker 80 

A  Group  of  Ice -Cream  Moulds 80 

An  Adequate  Steamer 112 

Table  Set  for  Informal  Chafing  Dish  Supper.         .         .         .  126 

Ways  to  Serve  Oranges     .         . 146 

Ways  to  Serve  Strawberries 146 

Curried  Eggs  in  Chafing  Dish 178 

Swedish  Timbales       .                  178 

General  Utility  Wheel-Tray  Set  for  Afternoon  Tea  Service.  216 

Smoked  Salmon  Canape 234 

Peanut  Butter  Canape 234 

Making  Soup  Stock 252 

Lamb  Chops       . 252 

Baked  Oysters  on  the  Half  Shell 270 

Tomatoes  Stuffed  with  Shrimps 270 

Cold  Boiled  Salmon  with  Mayonnaise 294 

Fish,  Ready  to  Boil 294 

Rice  with  Onion  and  Peppers  en  Casserole      ....  326 

Casserole  of  Lima  Beans  and  Beef  ......  326 

Table  Set  for  Formal  Luncheon 344 

Baked  Pork  Chops  with  Apples 360 

Baked  Sausage  with  Broiled  Sliced  Apples      ....  360 

Chicken   Pot  Pourri    .........  374 

Chicken  Mousse  Loaf 374 

Baked  Potatoes  and  Potato  Rack 398 

French  Frying  Potatoes 398 


xiv  List  of  Illustrations 

FACING  PAGE 

Table  Set  for  Home  Dinner      .         .         .         .                  .         .  424 

An  Asparagus  Cooker 438 

An  Improvised  Asparagus  Cooker 438 

Tomato  Cream  Salad 468 

Tomato  and  Sardine  Salad        .......  468 

The  Picnic  Lunch 500 

Steamed  Christmas  Pudding 534 

Rhubarb  Pudding  with  Banana  Decoration       ....  534 

Summer  Fruit  Cup     .........  564 

Ways  to  Serve  Pineapple 564 

Colonial  Sponge  Cake        .         .         .         .         .         .     !    .         .  598 

Walnut  Cake .  598 

Dropped  Nut  Cookies .  618 

Frosted  Ginger  Nuts 618 

Cheese  and  Nut  Balls 664 

Macaroon  Bisque         .         .         .         .         .         ...         .  664 

Wheel-Tray  Set  for  Invalid  Luncheon      .         •    .    •         •         .  684 

Table  Set  for  Formal  Christmas  Dinner          ....  706 


MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK   BOOK 


CHAPTER  I 

THE  EVERYDAY  CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD  AND 
COOKERY 

THE  BALANCED  RATION 

Every  housewife  is  the  mistress  of  the  destiny  of  her 
family.  In  the  foods  which  she  prepares  and  serves 
she  has  the  power  to  build  strong,  healthy  bodies,  the 
bedrock  of  brilliant  minds,  to  furnish  energy  for  work 
and  life,  and  to  create  a  reserve  against  worry  and  dis- 
ease. Within  her  hands  she  holds  the  glorious  manhood 
and  splendid  womanhood  of  to-morrow. 

The  balanced  ration  furnishes  the  solution  of  the 
house-mother's  difficult  problem  in  providing  the  right 
food  for  the  needs  of  her  family.  As  usually  explained 
the  problem  of  the  balanced  ration  seems  so  difficult, 
technical,  and  obscure,  that  the  average  woman,  although 
anxious  to  place  her  cookery  on  a  scientific  basis,  be- 
comes appalled  by  the  host  of  technical  terms  and  numer- 
ical calculations  and  finally  abandons  all  attempt  at 
science  and  falls  back  into  the  old  routine  of  unscientific 
cooking.  Nevertheless  the  problem  is  really  simple,  and 
can  be  worked  out  for  each  individual  family  by  the  ex- 
penditure of  a  little  time  and  thought  at  no  extra  cost, 
for  the  balanced  ration  tends  to  reduce  the  food  bills. 

But  first,  what  is  the  balanced  ration?  It  is  simply 
the  correct  combination  into  meals  of  the  proper  amounts 
of  food  and  the  proper  food  constituents  in  such  ways 
as  to  please  both  the  eye  and  the  palate,  appease  the 
hunger,  furnish  each  section  of  the  body  the  food  re- 
quired for  energy,  and  allow  for  the  storing-up  of  re- 
serve force  against  the  time  of  need. 

Our  bodies  are  made  of  many  different  elements, 
which,  in  conjunction  with  water,  combine  to  form  flesh, 
bone,  blood,  and  so  on.  But  each  time  a  motion  is  made, 
a  thought  flashed  in  the  brain,  or  even  a  word  spoken,  a 


2  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

small  part  of  the  body  tissue  is  broken  down  or  ex- 
hausted. This  waste  is  carried  off  through  the  pores  of 
the  skin  and  by  the  excretory  organs,  but  there  Nature 
pauses.  She  cannot  mend  a  break  without  material,  and, 
just  as  the  plumber  needs  solder,  she  requires  food  to  re- 
pair the  wornout  tissues.  As  the  body  is  so  complex, 
a  wide  variety  of  foods  is  needed  in  order  that  there 
may  be  sufficient  material  to  repair  each  part.  This  is 
one  reason  why  human  beings  crave  variety  in  their  food 
and  thrive  best  upon  a  mixed  diet. 

The  housewife,  in  working  out  her  food  problem,  may 
classify  foods  in  the  following  six  groups  of  constituents : 

1.  Proteins,   or   Muscle- Makers  —  as  beef,  lean  pork, 
mutton,   poultry,   lamb,   veal,   game,   cheese,   nuts,   milk, 
eggs,  fish,  dried  peas,  dried  beans,  lentils  and  milk  soups. 

2.  Carbohydrates,   or   Fuels  —  including   starches   and 
sweets. 

A.  Starchy  Foods  —  as  potatoes  and  all  starchy  veg- 
etables, macaroni,  spaghetti,  noodles  and  the  like,  cooked 
and  prepared  cereals,  bread,  muffins,  biscuits,  crackers, 
bananas,  cocoa,  corn  starch  and  tapioca  puddings,  cereal 
puddings  and  so  on. 

B.  Sweets  —  as    cakes,    frostings,    candies,    rich    pre- 
serves,   jellies,    rich   breads    (as    coffee   cake),    cookies, 
sweet  puddings,   stewed   fruit,  honey,  maple  syrup   and 
other  sugary  foods. 

3.  Fats,  or  Reserve-Force  Foods  —  as  fat  ham,  pork, 
bacon,  fat  fish,  sausages,  cream  soups,  full  milk  cheese, 
cream  cheese,   olive-,   corn-   and  peanut-oil,   ripe   olives, 
mayonnaise   and    all   salad   dressings,    rich   gravies   and 
sauces,  rich  pastry,  most  nuts,  suet  puddings,  fritters  and 
all  foods  cooked  in  fat,  sweet  chocolate,  ice  cream  made 
with  cream,  mousse,  parfaits  and  Bavarian  creams. 

4.  Minerals   and   Acids  —  as   cucumbers,   corn,   toma- 
toes, cabbage,  celery,  egg  plant,  spinach  and  all  greens, 
salad  plants,  prunes,  figs,  rhubarb  and  all  dried  and  fresh 
fruits. 

5.  Bulky  Foods,  or  Cleansers  —  as  all  mineral  foods, 
coarse  breads,  woody  vegetables,  gritty  cereals  and  bran 
foods. 

6.  Liquids,  or  Dissolvent  Foods  —  as  water,  stock  and 
milk  soups,  broths,  tea,  coffee,  skimmed  milk,  whey,  but- 


CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD  AND  COOKERY   3 

termilk,  fruit  drinks,  gelatines,  water  ices,  frappes,  sher- 
bets and  watery  fruits  and  vegetables. 

While  this  classification  is  only  a  general  one,  it  is 
sufficiently  accurate  and  practical  to  enable  any  house- 
wife to  place  her  cookery  on  a  scientific  basis  without 
any  trouble  or  abstruse  calculations.  All  foods  contain 
certain  properties,  as  proteins  possess  a  small  proportion 
of  heat-giving  properties,  while  most  carbohydrates  con- 
tain a  trace,  or  more,  of  protein.  For  convenience's  sake 
in  planning  a  balanced  ration  each  food  must  be  grouped 
according  to  its  predominating  characteristic,  for  the  un- 
derlying principle  in  the  preparation  of  food  lies  in  cook- 
ing properly  the  ruling  constituent,  as  protein  in  proteins, 
starch  in  carbohydrates,  and  so  on,  at  the  same  time 
retaining  as  much  of  the  total  food  value  as  possible. 

In  arranging  meals  the  principal  or  main  dish  should 
usually  be  a  protein  food  —  a  roast,  baked  eggs,  a  rare- 
bit, or  any  food  from  the  muscle-making  group.  Then 
come  the  carbohydrates  (starches  and  sugars),  the  fats 
(as  butter,  olive  oil  and  the  like),  the  minerals  (in  the 
form  of  fresh  fruits  or  vegetables)  and  the  bland  and 
"  filling  foods,"  listed  under  the  dissolvent  or  bulky 
group  (as  stock  soup,  gelatine,  apples,  and  so  on). 

If  the  wrong  foods  are  prepared  and  served,  it  is  al- 
most as  easy  to  starve  in  the  midst  of  plenty,  as  when 
there  is  nothing  to  eat,  and  Nature  creates  a  feeling  of 
dissatisfaction  which  results  in  a  constant  appetite,  or 
a  craving,  for  the  lacking  food.  A  mother  was  utterly 
discouraged  because  she  could  not  seem  to  provide  her 
athletic  boy  of  fifteen  with  enough  to  eat.  One  night, 
after  eating  ten  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  three  helpings 
of  potato  salad,  six  slices  of  cake,  and  three  dishes  of 
preserves,  he  was  rummaging  in  the  pantry  a  half  hour 
after  supper  for  "  something  to  eat."  She  finally  de- 
cided that  he  was  not  being  supplied  with  the  right  kind 
of  food,  so  she  studied  dietetics  and  the  balanced  ration, 
and  instituted  scientific  meals.  The  boy's  appetite  be- 
came normal  almost  at  once.  He  was  starving  on  starch, 
while  all  his  healthy  young  muscles  demanded  their  por- 
tion of  protein. 

A  meal  often  leaves  a  craving  sense  of  incompleteness, 
caused  by  a  similarity  in  flavor  in  all  the  foods  served. 


4  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

A  small  quantity  of  any  of  the  vividly  seasoned  foods 
furnishes  an  appetizer.  For  convenience  the  foods  suit- 
able for  use  in  this  way  may  be  termed  "  esthetic  foods," 
and  include  all  condiments,  pickles,  green  olives,  chili 
sauce,  ketchup,  crystallized  ginger,  green  peppers,  pimen- 
toes,  sour  oranges  and  fruits,  tart  jellies,  lemon  juice, 
wintergreen  and  peppermint  candies  and  so  forth.  The 
esthetic  touch  may  be  added  to  any  course  desirable,  al- 
though it  relieves  monotony  if  it  appears  midway  of 
the  meal.  If  the  esthetic  touch  is  added  properly,  the 
whole  meal  assumes  point  and  every  food  fits  into  its 
niche. 

In  planning  any  meal  the  bulky  group  of  food  constitu- 
ents must  predominate  in  quantity;  starches  should  ap- 
pear second,  the  proteins  third,  sweets  fourth  and  fats 
fifth,  while  the  liquid  group  should  be  sufficient  to  act  as 
a  dissolving  agent.  In  general,  two  starches  should 
figure  in  a  meal,  one  protein,  one  fat  besides  butter,  at 
least  one  bulky  food,  one  mineral,  or  more  if  desirable, 
one  sweet,  and  a  dissolvent  besides  water.  If  foods  are 
apportioned  in  this  way,  in  quantities  of  the  usual  "  help- 
ing," suited  to  the  occupation  and  age  of  each  member 
of  the  family,  second  portions  will  seldom  be  requested; 
when  each  part  of  the  body  is  receiving  adequate  nourish- 
ment, less  food  is  needed. 

The  food  of  each  meal  should  be  suitable  for  the  needs 
of  each  member  of  the  family.  Briefly,  the  man  at  hard 
labor  and  the  active  boy  from  twelve  years  up  require 
hearty  foods  that  "  stick  to  the  ribs  " —  usually  meaning 
those  consuming  a  long  time  in  digestion ;  the  housewife, 
active  school  girls  from  twelve  years  on,  and  men  at 
sedentary  occupations  need  lighter  food  or  that  more 
easily  digested;  while  children  from  four  to  eight  and 
old  people  need  a  fair  quantity  of  simple  food.  Children 
under  four  demand  small  quantities  of  easily  digested 
foods,  supplemented  by  plenty  of  minerals  and  milk, 
while  the  child  from  eight  to  twelve  may  eat  the  usual 
family  meal  in  quantities  suited  to  his  growth  and  ac- 
tivity. No  matter  whether  the  income  is  large  or  small 
the  balanced  ration  can  always  be  maintained.  Jt  must 
be  borne  in  mind  that  beyond  a  certain  point  the  cost  of 


CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD  AND  COOKERY-  5 

food  is  for  flavor  and  luxuries  rather  than  for  the  neces- 
sities of  diet. 

A  day's  menu  for  a  family,  consisting  of  a  father  at 
clerical  work,  a  mother  who  acts  as  housekeeper,  an  'ath- 
letic son,  a  girl  of  ten,  and  a  child  of  four,  might  be  as 
follows : 

Breakfast 

Coddled  Apples,  B,  4,  5,  6 

Cracked  Wheat,  A,  5 

Light  Cream,  3 

Baked  Eggs,  i 

Popovers,  A,  and  Butter,  3 

Coffee  (for  grown-ups),  6 

Luncheon  or  Supper 

Cream  of  Tomato  Soup,  i,  6 

Escalloped  Cheese,  i 
Bread,  A,  and  Butter,  3 

Lettuce  Salad,  with  Shredded  Peppers  and  Oil  Dressing,  3,  4,  6 
Steamed  Whole  Wheat  Pudding,  A  Raisin  Sauce,  B 

Tea,  6 

Dinner 

Clear  Soup,  6 

Lamb  with  Gravy,  i,  3  Boiled  Rice,  A 

Cabbage  Slaw,  with  Minced  Mint,  3,  4 

Baked  Parsnips,  A 

Sliced  Oranges  in  Jelly,  B,  4,  5 

Tea,  6 

The  numbers  following  each  item  refer  back  to  the 
table  of  food  constituents,  proteins  being  called  i ; 
starches  A ;  sweets  B ;  fats  3 ;  minerals  4 ;  bulky  foods  5 
and  liquids  6.  Some  of  the  foods  may  be  included  in 
two  or  more  classifications;  in  this  case  several  numbers 
appear  after  each  item. 

These  menus  are  roughly  balanced,  and  approximate 
dietetic  standards  in  so  far  as  is  practicable.  A  sufficient 
quantity  of  sugar  is  added  in  preparing  coddled  apples  to 
classify  them  as  sweet  (B),  but  at  the  same  time  they  are 
mineral  (4),  ballast  (5),  and  liquid  (6).  Cream  of 
tomato  soup  is  at  once  a  protein  (i),  because  of  the  milk 
it  contains,  and  a  dissolvent  (6),  because  it  is  a  liquid. 
A  knowledge  of  cookery  and  familiarization  with  the 


6  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

table  of  food  constituents  given  above  will  enable  anyone 
to  classify  all  foods  in  their  relation  to  the  balanced 
ration. 

In  these  special  menus  each  food  constituent  appears 
in  correct  proportion,  and  every  member  of  the  imagin- 
ary family  can  obtain  from  them  the  foods  suited  to  his 
or  her  needs.  The.  cracked  wheat  at  breakfast  is  suffi- 
ciently bulky  to  "  stand  by  "  the  athletic  son,  who  will 
doubtless  eat  steadily  through  the  meal.  The  father  and 
mother  will  eat  smaller  quantities  because  they  are  not 
so  active  and  burn  less  energy,  while  the  girl  of  ten  will 
probably  be  satisfied  with  a  choice  of  either  eggs  or 
cereal.  The  four-year-old  child  should  be  given  either 
eggs  or  cereal,  but  not  both.  Milk  'is  also  needed,  if  the 
cereal  serves  as  his  main  dish.  As  he  is  too  young  to 
eat  hot  breads,  a  slice  of  bread  and  butter  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  the  popovers.  The  same  common  sense  dis- 
posal may  be  made  at  the  other  meals. 

PROTEINS,  THEIR  PREPARATION  AND  PLACE 
IN  THE  MENU 

The  part  which  the  proteins  should  play  in  the  balanced 
ration  is  the  most  serious  consideration  in  arranging  a 
diet.  If  insufficient  protein  is  taken,  the  body  cannot 
grow  or  build  up  the  wornout  parts ;  while,  if  too  much 
is  taken,  the  result  is  serious  disease.  As  a  matter  of 
fact  many  of  the  so-called  degenerative  diseases  are 
traced  to  too  much  protein  in  the  diet.  So  the  selection 
of  protein  foods  involves  considerable  thought.  Another 
cause  for  thought  is  that  many  foods  analyze  a  large 
proportion  of  protein  that  is  not  digestible  —  and  we  live 
upon  what  we  digest,  irrespective  of  what  we  eat. 
Mushrooms,  for  example,  contain  a  certain  amount  of 
protein,  but  it  is  in  such  form  that  the  body  cannot 
digest  it  all.  The  outer  layers  of  certain  grains  contain 
considerable  protein,  yet,  as  it  cannot  be  assimilated,  the 
nutritional  value  of  this  part  of  the  grain  is  chiefly  in  the 
mineral  matter  which  is  also  present.  As  these  foods 
contain  a  large  amount  of  waste  material,  they  are  also 
of  value  as  "  ballast "  in  the  diet. 

The  following  foods  may  be  roughly  classified  as  pro- 
teins : 


CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD  AND  COOKERY   7 

Beef,  poultry,  game,  pork,  lamb,  mutton,  veal,  cheese, 
nuts,  milk,  eggs,  fish,  dried  beans,  peas,  lentils  and  milk 
soups. 

All  dishes  which  consist  largely  of  any  of  these  foods 
also  belong  to  this  classification,  so  that  the  possibilities 
of  presenting  protein  in  the  diet  are  considerable.  Many 
housewives  have  the  idea  that  only  savory  dishes,  suitable 
for  the  main  portion  of  a  meal,  are  proteins,  but  this 
idea  is  erroneous.  Any  of  these  foods,  whether  in  a 
sweet,  a  salad,  or  a  soup,  is  a  protein.  For  instance, 
dried  lima-bean  soup,  chicken  salad,  escalloped  beef, 
baked  egg  custard,  cheese  souffle,  or  nut  croquettes  are 
all  proteins,  and  if  they  are  not  so  considered  in  the 
menu,  the  body  may  rebel  and  become  heir  to  the  ills 
attending  a  diet  too  rich  in  protein.  This  is  not  difficult 
when  the  common  error  of  serving  meat  three  times  a 
day  is  made.  It  is  obvious  that  with  so  wide  a  variety 
of  protein  foods  from  which  to  choose  there  should  be 
no  trouble  in  planning  menus  in  which  meat  figures  but 
once  a  day. 

The  statement  is  frequently  made  that  the  protein 
value  in  three  eggs,  three  ounces  of  cheese,  two  ounces  of 
salted  peanuts,  or  a  pint  of  milk  equals  that  in  five  ounces 
of  meat.  While  this  may  be  true,  it  is  impracticable 
to  serve  many  of  these  meat  substitutes  uncombined,  for, 
unless  they  are  supplemented  by  some  food  which  serves 
as  ballast,  they  do  not  contain  a  bulk  equalling  that  of 
meat.  Most  people  feel  that  the  satisfying  of  hunger 
consists  in  eating  until  the  stomach  is  full,  and  this 
cannot  be  done  on  a  concentrated  diet,  as  overeating 
and  illness  result.  If  the  cheese  is  escalloped  with 
coarse  crumbs,  the  peanuts  hash-browned  with  potatoes, 
the  eggs  creamed  and  served  on  toast,  the  milk  solidified 
into  junket  or  enforced  with  oatmeal  or  whole  wheat 
crackers,  the  ballast  will  be  supplied  and  the  body  satis- 
fied. The  reason  that  meat  substitutes  are  not  more 
generally  used  is  probably  because  most  women  fail  to 
grasp  this  point,  and  a  single  trial  of  the  so-called  sub- 
stitutes, plain  or  not  properly  combined,  convinces  them 
that  "  their  family  would  rather  have  meat  "  and  they 
turn  back  to  their  former  ways.  • 

The  selection  of  protein  best  suited  to  the  menu  de- 


8  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

pends  largely  upon  the  family.  The  more  digestible 
types  are  advisable  for  those  doing  light  work,  the 
"  heartier,"  or  less  digestible  foods  for  those  of  greater 
activity. 

The  digestibility  of  a  few  more  common  foods  may  be 
noted  roughly  as  follows: 

QUICKLY  DIGESTED  SLOWLY  DIGESTED 

(One  to  three  hours)  (Three  to  five  hours) 

Milk  Pork  in  all  forms 

Broiled  -tripe  Veal  in  all  forms 

Turkey  Nuts  in  all  forms 

Broiled  chicken,  lamb  chops  Cheese  in  all  forms 

and  steak  Mushrooms 

Broiled,  poached,  scrambled  Pot-roast  of  beef 

and  coddled  eggs  Casserole  dishes 

Baked  custard  Hard-cooked    and    fried    eggs 

Broiled  trout,  halibut  and  sal-  and  omelets 

mon  Stews 

Boiled  cod,  halibut  and  salmon  Fried  meats  of  all  kinds 

Salt  codfish,  baked  or  creamed  All  "made  dishes"  of  meats 

Oysters,  raw  or  baked  in  shell  Fried  fish  of  all  kinds 

Boiled  beef  Mackerel,  sardines,  canned  sal- 
mon, and  all  fat  fish 
Lentils,  peas  and  beans 

This  raises  the  most  important  point  in  connection 
with  proteins  —  their  cookery  —  for  it  is  possible  to  make 
a  food  that  is  otherwise  digestible  difficult  of  digestion  by 
improper  cooking,  and  to  make  those  so-called  "  indi- 
gestible "  much  more  palatable  and  nutritious  by  the 
right  treatment.  To  a  considerable  extent  perfect  diges- 
tion depends  on  perfect  cooking,  and  on  the  same  con- 
sideration hinges  the  greatest  possibility  for  absorption 
of  nutriment.  Food  that  is  not  digested  is  wasted ;  a 
human  machine  clogged  with  the  wastes  of  indigestion 
is  inefficient.  However,  in  searching  for  digestible 
foods  any  tendency  to  "  pamper  "  or  "  spare  "  the  diges- 
tive organs  of  a  normal  person  should  be  avoided.  The 
whole  body  needs  exercise  —  the  stomach,  liver  and  in- 
testines, as  well  as  the  legs  and  arms,  and,  while  they 
should  not  be  overloaded,  they  should  not  be  given  a 
diet  of  eggs,  milk  and  predigested  foods  on  which  they 
will  become  weakened. 

The  cooking  of  all  protein  foods  is  alike  in  that  they 
should  neyer  be  subjected  to  high  temperatures,  as  this 


CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD  AND  COOKERY   9 

has  a  hardening  effect  on  the  protein  element,  making 
it  indigestible.  If  an  egg,  for  instance,  is  boiled  or 
poached  in  rapidly  boiling  water  for  four  minutes,  the 
white  becomes  opaque  and  leathery,  while,  if  the  time 
is  slightly  increased  and  the  egg  is  immersed  in  water 
just  below  the  boiling  point,  it  becomes  perfectly  cooked, 
having  a  jellied,  translucent  appearance. 

It  may  be  given,  then,  as  a  rule,  that  eggs  should  al- 
ways be  cooked  at  the  lowest  possible  temperature.  If 
eggs  are  to  be  hard-cooked,  the  only  way  to  avoid  the 
unpleasant  chemical  changes  brought  about  by  the  usual 
prolonged  cooking  is  to  put  them  on  in  cold  water,  bring 
them  slowly  to  the  boiling  point,  boil  rapidly  for  ten  min- 
utes, then  plunge  at  once  into  cold  water  to  stop  all  fur- 
ther cooking.  This  is  the  only  case  when  an  egg,  as  a 
protein  food,  should  be  boiled.  Scrambled  eggs,  as  usu- 
ally served,  are  leathery  and  indigestible,  because  they 
are  turned  into  melted  butter  in  a  pan  so  hot  that  the 
eggs  are  not  only  coagulated  immediately,  but  are  fried 
as  well.  Properly,  the  mixture  should  be  turned  into  a 
cold,  thick  frying  pan,  the  lump  of  butter  added,  and  the 
whole  cooked  so  gently  that  the  result  is  creamy.  Fried 
eggs  and  omelets  should  also  be  cooked  slowly.  A  per- 
fectly fried  egg  cannot  be  prepared  under  five  minutes, 
while  an  omelet  of  fair  size  needs  ten.  Custards  and 
desserts  of  all  kinds,  containing  eggs,  should  be  sur- 
rounded by  boiling  water  while  cooking,  as  this  keeps 
the  temperature  below  boiling  point.  Otherwise  they 
will  "  curd,"  or,  in  other  words,  the  eggs  will  cook  in 
lumps. 

Fish  consists  of  a  considerable  proportion  of  protein, 
yet  there  is  probably  no  other  food  so  maltreated.  The 
majority  of  people  "  do  not  care  for  fish,"  but  in  how 
many  cases  is  it  ever  served  other  than  fried  or  boiled? 
If  the  former  method  is  used,  the  delicate  flavor  and  tex- 
ture is  usually  overcome  by  the  hot  fat ;  if  the  latter,  the 
fish  is  "  cooked  to  death."  If  fish  must  be  fried,  let  it 
be  in  deep  fat.  The  high  heat  will  immediately  coagu- 
late the  outside  protein  cells,  preventing  the  escape  of 
juices,  while  the  cold  fish  will  reduce  the  temperature 
sufficiently  to  carry  on  the  process  slowly.  In  boiling 
(a  misleading  term)  fish  should  be  started  in  water  just 


io  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

at  boiling  point;  for,  as  the  protein  of  fish  is  soluble  in 
cold  or  merely  warm  water,  it  will  otherwise  be  lost. 
If  it  be  wrapped  in  a  cloth  and  the  complete  cooking  car- 
ried on  at  simmering-point  (as  with  the  boiled  eggs),  the 
fish  will  present  a  "  jellied  "  appearance,  be  very  tender 
and  remain  whole.  If  boiled  rapidly,  it  is  not  only 
"  cooked  to  pieces  "  but  the  breaking  open  causes  the 
loss  of  both  flavor  and  part  of  the  protein.  In  boiling, 
the  fish  should  be  subjected  to  high  heat  only  long  enough 
to  seal  the  outside.  The  same  rule  also  applies  to  plank- 
ing. In  no  case  should  the  process  be  hurried. 

Meats  may  be  cooked  in  various  ways,  boiling,  broil- 
ing, stewing,  pot-roasting,  braizing,  roasting  and  casserol- 
ing being  the  most  common.  "  Boiled  beef,"  properly 
prepared,  is  one  of  the  juiciest  and  most  digestible  of 
meats,  but,  like  fish,  it  must  never  be  actually  boiled. 
Again,  though  different  in  appearance,  meat  contains 
practically  the  same  protein  as  eggs  and  fish,  and,  if 
boiled,  becomes  tough  and  leathery.  The  protein  of 
meats,  like  that  of  fish,  is  soluble  in  cold  water,  so  they 
should  always  be  plunged  into  boiling  water  to  seal,  or 
"  sear,"  the  pores,  in  order  to  preserve  the  protein,  then 
simmered  gently  till  done.  In  this  way  the  juices  will  be 
retained  and  the  meat  become  tender  and  gelatinized. 
In  preparing  a  five-pound  piece  it  will  be  necessary  to 
increase  the  time  of  cooking  about  an  hour  over  the 
old  method.  The  fireless  cooker  is  a  successful  medium 
for  preparing  tough  meats,  because  it  necessitates  a  slow 
process.  The  resulting  stock  will  be  thin  and  rather 
"  flat,"  because  the  flavors  have  been  retained  in  the 
meat,  which  is  of  first  importance.  In  stewing,  on  the 
other  hand,  the  meat  and  liquor  are  of  equal  importance ; 
so  the  meat  is  immersed  in  cold  water,  and  brought 
slowly  to  the  simmering  point,  in  order  to  make  the  broth 
of  strong  flavor.  In  this  way  the  juices  are  divided  be- 
tween the  meat  and  the  broth,  making  the  stew  more 
palatable.  Casserole  cooking  is  merely  baking  a  stew  in 
an  earthen  dish.  Pot-roasting  is  modified  boiling,  the 
meat  being  first  browned  or  seared  all  over  in  fat  to  keep 
in  the  juices,  then  added,  with  the  vegetables  and  spices, 
to  boiling  water  sufficient  to  cover  it  half  over.  It  should 
never  boil. 


CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD  AND  COOKERY   II 

In  broiling  or  pan-broiling,  meat  should  be  subjected 
to  heat  sufficient  to  sear  it  quickly,  then  turned  immedi- 
ately to  sear  the  other  portions,  lest  the  juices  escape. 
As  most  meat  for  broiling  is  cut  crosswise,  the  fibers  con- 
taining the  meat  fluids  are  left  exposed.  Unless  the 
searing  be  quick  and  complete,  these  juices  will  escape, 
the  result  being  a  flat,  tasteless  meat.  If,  however,  the 
searing  is  thorough,  and  the  meat  is  turned  frequently, 
the  juices  run  back  and  forth  in  the  fibers,  which  expand 
with  the  heat  until  the  meat  assumes  a  puffy  appearance. 
In  roasting,  meat  is  exposed  to  a  very  hot  heat  till  seared, 
all  over,  then  finished  at  a  lower  temperature. 

Cheese  is  another  protein  that  requires  careful  cook- 
ing. It  consists  largely  of  casein,  the  protein  of  milk, 
and,  like  all  the  other  foods  in  this  group,  is  rendered 
indigestible  by  high  temperatures.  This  is  the  reason  it 
disagrees  with  many.  If  baked,  it  should  always  be  set 
in  a  pan  of  hot  water ;  if  in  a  rarebit  or  cheese  sauce,  it 
should  be  cooked  in  a  double  boiler ;  either  method  keeps 
it  below  the  boiling  point.  In  case  it  is  to  be  added  to 
soup  or  macaroni,  the  dish  should  be  fully  prepared  be- 
fore the  addition,  the  heat  being  sufficient  to  melt  the 
cheese.  If  served  plain,  it  should  be  finely  shaved,  or 
cut  in  small  pieces,  and  some  bulky  food  should  always 
accompany  it. 

Dried  peas,  beans  and  lentils  should  always  be  soaked 
several  hours  before  cooking,  thoroughly  rinsed,  and 
then  simmered  until  tender.  Again,  it  takes  slow-cook- 
ing to  make  the  protein  digestible.  A  little  baking  soda, 
added  while  cooking,  aids  in  softening  the  husks  and 
overcoming  the  gases  that  frequently  attend  the  eating 
of  dried  vegetables. 


CARBOHYDRATES  AND  FATS 

THEIR  PREPARATION  AND  PLACE  IN  THE 

MENU 

Just  as  the  protein  builds  muscle,  the  carbohydrate  ful- 
fills the  great  mission  of  acting  as  fuel  for  the  body, 
thus  providing  heat  and  activity  and  energy  for  work. 
Without  this  food  constituent,  the  body  would  become 


12  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

lazy,    chilly    and    inert,    while    oxidation  —  digesting  — 
could  not  take  place. 

The  list  of  carbohydrates  —  which  includes  both 
starches  and  sugars  —  is  extensive.  The  following  foods 
may  be  listed  as  starches :  All  vegetables  which  contain 
a  noticeable  amount  of  starch  and  sugar,  ^s  white  pota- 
toes, sweet  potatoes,  carrots,  parsnips,  beets,  melons, 
sweet  corn,  and  squash ;  all  cereals,  both  ready-to-eat  and 
cooked,  including  rice,  samp,  macaroni,  spaghetti,  ver- 
micelli and  noodles ;  bread,  all  muffins,  biscuits  and  crack- 
ers; bananas  and  corn  starch;  arrowroot,  cereal  and 
tapioca .  puddings.  Sugars  include  all  foods  made  very 
sweet :  as  cakes,  most  pies,  f rostings,  candies,  rich  pre- 
serves, stewed  fruits,  jellies,  sweet  puddings,  rich  breads 
(as  coffee  cake),  cookies,  Barbadoes  or  other  molasses, 
honey  and  maple  and  corn  syrup. 

iThis  classification  must  not  be  misunderstood,  for  it  is 
only  general  in  scope.  Most  carbohydrate  foods  contain 
some  protein  and  some  fat.  A  cake  made  from  eggs 
—  wrhich  contain  both  protein  and  fat  —  will  contribute 
a  proportion  of  both  constituents  to  the  dish. 

Starches  in  the  raw  state  are  largely  indigestible  and 
cannot  be  absorbed  by  the  body.  Thorough  cooking 
converts  the  starch  into  a  sweet  substance  similar  to 
sugar  and  renders  it  digestible.  In  case  the  cookery  is 
incomplete,  as  in  half-cooked  cereals,  the  starch,  instead 
of  being  used  in  the  body,  goes  through  the  digestive 
canal,  irritating  the  stomach  and  intestines  and  fre- 
quently causing  accumulations  of  gas.  Just  as  plain 
starch  cannot  be  prepared  for  laundry  purposes  without 
the  addition  of  boiling  water  to  burst  the  grains,  so  is 
this  addition  necessary  in  cooking  all  starchy  foods,  un- 
less they  contain  a  large  amount  of  water  in  themselves. 
For  this  reason  cereals  cannot  be  cooked  without  the 
medium  of  water  or  other  liquid,  while  potatoes,  which 
are  composed  of  considerable  water,  can  be  cooked  either 
with  or  without  water. 

Cereals  are  the  cheapest  and  most  nourishing  of  the 
fuel  foods.  As  they  consist  of  approximately  three- 
fourths  starch,  they  are  distinctly  carbohydrates,  al- 
though oats,  wheat,  rye  and  corn  contain  about  ten  per 


\ 

CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD  AND  COOKERY   13 

cent  of  protein,  and  even  rice,  though  mostly  starch,  has 
eight  per  cent  of  protein. 

Bread,  both  ordinary  white  and  whole  wheat,  contains 
so  large  a  percentage  of  starch  that  it  must  be  classi- 
fied as  a  carbohydrate.  Bread  has  a  place  peculiarly 
its  own  in  the  diet,  but  when  enormous  quantities  are 
consumed  at  a  meal  it  denotes  one  of  two  things  —  it 
is  eaten  through  custom  or  because  the  meal  is  unbal- 
anced. 

In  considering  sweets,  the  place  of  pure  molasses, 
honey  and  maple  syrup  should  be  noted.  They  are 
wholesome  foods,  and  a  meal  supplemented  by  warm 
biscuits  and  honey,  or  browned  mush  and  syrup,  instead 
of  the  usual  heavy  dessert,  is  not  only  more  wholesome 
but  more  enjoyable.  Pure  candy  deserves  a  place  in  the 
diet,  and,  when  properly  used,  may  supplement  the  menu. 
Sugar  is  a  source  of  quick  energy,  and,  often,  a  little 
plain  candy  or  sugar  water  acts  as  a  restorative  in  cases 
of  fatigue.  If  a  stick  of  candy  is  occasionally  given  to 
the  child  after  school,  with  coarse  oatmeal  crackers,  so 
that  he  will  not  eat  too  rapidly,  he  is  furnished  with 
quick  energy  in  an  absolutely  harmless  form.  But  if 
candy  is  eaten  just  before  a  meal,  the  appetite  is  sated 
by  the  sweet,  and  the  regular  food  may  be  refused. 

Stewed  fruits,  either  dried  or  fresh,  jellies  and  pre- 
serves, may  be  considered  as  sweets  on  account  of  the 
sugar  they  contain.  A  little  thought  shows  that  the  too 
frequent  supper  of  bread  and  butter,  cookies,  cake,  pre- 
serves and  tea,  served  so  largely  in  country  towns,  is 
made  up  mostly  of  carbohydrates.  Yet  in  many  famil- 
ies it  is  served  the  year  through.  In  most  households 
the  tendency  is  towards  too  much  carbohydrate,  which 
is  liable  to  bring  about  auto-intoxication  and  obesity.  Up 
to  a  certain  point  the  body  needs  starch,  but  when  an 
oversupply  begins  to  be  stored  up  as  fat,  the  danger 
of  obesity  begins. 

FATS 

Fat  is  an  important  food  constituent  for  it  is  the  great- 
est source  of  latent  or  reserve  energy,  yet  there  is  prob- 
ably no  other  item  of  the  diet  so  generally  disliked. 


14  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

From  the  time  a  child  is  old  enough  to  be  given  meat  he 
generally  refuses  even  to  taste  the  fat,  and  the  mother, 
instead  of  coaxing  him  to  eat,  often  cuts  off  the  "  offend- 
ing "  morsel,  little  realizing  that  she  is  depriving  her  child 
of  a  great  essential  of  his  food. 

In  the  fat,  or  reserve  force,  group  we  find  the  fol- 
lowing foods :  fat  ham,  pork,  bacon,  fat  fish,  sausages, 
cream,  butter,  oleomargarine,  cream  soups,  rich  cream 
cheese,  olive-,  corn-  and  peanut-oils,  mayonnaise,  and  all 
salad  dressings,  almonds,  peanuts  and  other  nuts,  rich 
gravies,  ripe  olives,  hard  or  cream  sauce,  all  kinds  of 
rich  pastry,  suet  puddings,  fritters  and  all  grease-cooked 
foods,  chocolate,  ice  cream,  mousses,  Bavarian  creams 
and  parfaits. 

Fats  must  always  be  broken  up  or  emulsified  before 
they  can  be  digested.  The  normal  body  is  so.  constituted 
that  it  does  not  crave  large  quantities  at  a  time.  So  fats 
are  generally  served  in  combination  —  olive  oil  being  cut 
by  lemon -juice  or  vinegar  in  a  French  dressing,  butter 
spread  on  bread,  eggs  served  with  bacon,  cream  with 
shortcake  and  apple  sauce  with  fat  pork,  Nature  always 
calling  for  a  balance. 

As  fat  is  the  last  food  constituent  to  be  acted  upon 
by  the  digestive  organs,  it  may  be  readily  seen  why  this 
becomes  the  reserve  force  element  of  the  body.  Any 
food  cooked  in  it  cannot  be  digested  until  Nature  has 
broken  up  the  fat  cells.  An  omelet,  fried  eggs,  fried 
steak,  doughnuts,  croquettes  and  the  like  are  not  easily 
available  for  the  body's  use  until  the  fat  has  been  acted 
upon.  Pastry,  cake  and  suet  puddings  rich  in  fat  are 
equally  slow  of  digestion,  for  the  fat  is  so  blended  about 
the  grains  of  flour  and  other  ingredients  that  it  must  first 
be  dissolved  before  they  can  be  utilized.  Foods  cooked 
in  fat  remain  in  the  digestive  tract  from  one  to  two  hours 
longer  than  is  ordinarily  necessary.  This  overtaxes  the 
whole  system,  and,  if  such  foods  are  eaten  persistently, 
results  in  pallor,  eruptions  on  the  face,  and  a  general  air 
of  lassitude.  This  does  not  mean  that  fried  foods  should 
be  excluded  from  the  diet,  but  that  they  should  be  served 
in  moderation. 

In  health  all  fats  in  reasonable  amounts  are  digestible 
in  the  following  order :  good  butter,  cream,  olive  oil,  pea- 


CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD  AND  COOKERY   15 

nut-  and  corn-oils,  oleomargarine,  beef  fat,  and  the  vari- 
ous pork  products. 

In  frying,  fats  are  usually  heated  to  the  smoking  point, 
when  they  break  up  and  some  of  the  products  evolved 
are  irritating  to  the  intestinal  canal.  This  is  why  burned 
butter  is  unwholesome,  and  why  doughnuts  and  other 
foods  fried  in  lard  heated  to  the  smoking-point  are  in- 
digestible. Animal  fats  smoke  at  a  much  lower  temper- 
ature than  do  vegetable  oils.  For  this  reason  the  veg- 
etable product  is  a  much  better  medium  for  frying. 
Olive  oil  is  the  best,  prepared  vegetable  cooking  oils  come 
second,  while  lard  and  beef  fat  are  the  least  desirable. 

In  various  experiments  carried  on  to  ascertain  whether 
deep-fat  frying  or  sauteing  (frying  in  a  small  amount  of 
fat)  is  preferable,  the  former  method  has  proved  to  be 
the  more  economical,  and  the  products  more  digestible, 
because  approximately  one-fourth  less  fat  is  absorbed 
into  the  foods.  To  be  fried  in  deep  fat,  foods  must  con- 
tain enough  egg  instantly  to  coagulate  them  (as  fritters), 
cfr  else  be  coated  with  a  thin  layer  of  egg  or  dissolved 
gelatine  (as  croquettes).  The  surface  is  then  instantly 
sealed,  and  the  fat  will  not  be  absorbed  to  any  great  ex- 
tent. 

MINERAL,  ACID  AND  BALLAST  FOODS 

Mineral,  acid  and  ballast  foods  are  so  closely  connected 
that  they  really  belong  to  the  same  group,  and  are  sepa- 
rated only  for  convenience  in  planning  the  balanced 
ration.  They  include  all  bulky,  watery  vegetables,  as 
onions,  corn,  cucumbers,  carrots,  cauliflower,  celery,  egg- 
plant, radishes,  spinach,  and  all  greens ;  asparagus,  string 
beans,  salad  plants,  prunes,  figs  and  rhubarb;  all  fresh 
fruits,  coarse  breads,  cereals  made  from  undenatured 
food  products,  as  whole  wheat  meal,  oatmeal,  home 
ground  cornmeal  and  brown  rice. 

The  term  "  minerals  "  is  so  little  understood  that  the 
importance  of  this  constituent  in  the  diet  is  usually  over- 
looked or  left  to  take  care  of  itself.  The  body  averages 
seven  pounds  of  mineral  matter,  five-sixths  of  which  is 
found  in  the  bones,  the  remainder  being  distributed 
throughout  the  tissues,  where  it  performs  important  du- 
ties in  assisting  to  oxidize,  or  burn,  the  food,  carry  off 


i.6  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

carbon  dioxide  (the  by-product  of  oxidation)  giving  life 
to  the  nervous  system  and  pliability  to  the  muscles.  In 
fact  life  cannot  be  carried  on  without  mineral,  and,  just 
as  there  is  crop  failure  if  land  lacks  phosphorus  or  some 
other  necessary  constituent,  the  body  droops,  grows  pale 
and  finally  ill,  if  deprived  of  any  of  these  minerals. 
Lime,  for  instance,  is  essential  to  digestion,  and,  strangely 
enough,  has  a  great  affinity  for  sugar.  In  case  many 
sweets  are  eaten  and  not  enough  lime,  the  body  begins  to 
call  on  its  own  store  to  combine  with  the  sugar,  gradually 
the  lime  is  sapped  from  the  teeth,  and  decay  is  apt  to  be- 
gin. Life  itself  cannot  be  carried  on  without  iron,  for 
the  little  red  corpuscles  of  the  blood  cannot  refresh, 
or  reorganize,  the  body  without  it.  When  iron  is  defi- 
cient, pallor,  lassitude  and,  finally,  anemia  may  set  in. 
The  body  cannot  lack  any  one  mineral  and  expect  the 
others  to  carry  on  their  work  effectively.  But  if  a  bal- 
anced diet  is  used  and  the  vegetables  and  fruits  are  care- 
fully prepared,  the  body  will  be  supplied  with  all  the 
mineral  matter  necessary.  On  such  a  diet  little  thought 
need  be  given  to  the  matter  of  minerals  and  salt  will  be 
the  only  one  which  will  have  to  be  added. 

As  all  vegetables  contain  a  variety  of  minerals,  it  is 
somewhat  difficult  to  classify  them  as  being  rich  in  any 
particular  one. 

Lime  is  found  in  all  cereals  and  predominates  in  brown 
rice,  as  well  as  in  radishes,  apples  and  spinach ;  while 
iron  has  a  definite  place  in  apples,  lentils,  strawberries, 
cabbage,  spinach  and  string  beans. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  in  classifying  cereals  the  word 
"  undenatured  "  is  prefixed  to  wheat,  oatmeal,  cornmeal 
and  brown  rice.  When  a  cereal  is  "  denatured,"  one  or 
more  of  its  valuable  elements  have  been  removed.  When 
wheat  is  made  into  white  flour,  a  portion  of  the  mineral 
is  sacrificed.  A  similar  loss  is  sustained  when  the  heart 
and  outer  husks  are  removed  from  corn.  Rolled  oats 
and  polished  rice  suffer  in  like  manner.  In  this  way 
the  body  is  really  deprived  of  several  of  the  most  im- 
portant food  elements,  and,  if  these  special  denatured 
foods  predominate  in  the  diet,  mineral  starvation  results= 

Too  much  emphasis  cannot  be  laid  on  the  necessity  of 
supplying  minerals  in  the  diet  for  prospective  mother- 


CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD  AND  COOKERY   17 

hood.  The  body  is  then  taxed  to  the  utmost  to  supply 
not  only  itself,  but  the  food  essences  needed  for  the  new 
life.  In  this  case,  as  with  the  child,  the  diet  should  be 
over-rich  in  minerals,  as,  otherwise,  the  bony  structure 
of  the  coming  baby  will  suffer,  while  the  mother  will  be 
robbed  of  her  own  supply  of  body  minerals  to  give  to 
the  child.  The  decay  of  the  teeth  of  the  pregnant  mother 
is  largely  due  to  the  lack  of  lime  and  phosphorus  in  the 
diet. 

Fruits,  like  vegetables,  are  both  mineral  and  ballast 
foods.  They  also  convey  to  the  body  various  acids  which 
are  combined  with  minerals  in  such  a  way  as  to  play  an 
important  part  in  maintaining  health.  As  digestion 
transforms  these  acids  into  alkalis,  they  cause  the  blood 
to  become  alkaline  and  the  urine  less  acid.  The  differ- 
ing flavors  of  fruits  are  due  to  these  acids,  in  part,  but 
more  to  the  presence  of  small  numbers  of  little  bodies 
which  almost  elude  investigation.  While  these  are  of 
no  great  nutritive  value,  they  give  the  fruits  pronounced 
flavor  and  make  them  valuable  stimulants  to  the  appetite 
and  aids  to  digestion,  because  they  excite  the  digestive 
juices. 

Fruits  in  their  raw  state  have  a  much  greater  tonic- 
value,  but  as  they  are  indigestible  to  many  people,  it  is 
often  necessary  to  cook  them.  Unless  the  liquor  or 
medium  in  which  they  are  prepared  is  served  with  them, 
they  suffer  great  nutritive  loss.  The  skins  should  be 
retained  as  far  as  possible,  as  many  of  the  mineral  salts 
are  found  just  beneath  the  surface  and  are  lost  when  the 
fruit  is  pared.  Whether  raw  or  cooked  all  fruits  should 
be  served  with  less  sugar  than  is  the  usual  custom. 
Fruit  drinks  offer  an  opportunity  to  introduce  acids  and 
salts  into  the  system;  any  fruit,  from  peaches  to  grape- 
fruit, is  adaptable,  either  alone  or  in  combination.  Again, 
these  drinks  should  not  be  served  too  sweet,  or  the  direct 
value  is  thwarted.  Uncooked,  acid  fruits,  however, 
should  not  be  served  in  combination  with  starchy  foods, 
as  they  frequently  cause  indigestion.  Many  a  person 
has  suffered  for  years  from  flatulence  through  eating 
both  raw,  acid  fruit  and  cereal  for  breakfast. 

Figs,  prunes  and  bananas  should  be  classed  as  food 
fruits,  rather  than  mineral  fruits.  Both  figs  and  prunes 


18  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

contain  so  much  sugar  that  they  are  listed  under  carbo- 
hydrates, although  their  mineral  content  is  high.  Both 
are  ballast  foods  and  very  laxative.  The  banana  is 
largely  starch,  so  it  also  is  classified  under  carbohydrates. 
As  it  is  almost  impossible  in  the  north,  to  obtain  bananas 
fully  ripened,  they  should  be  served  cooked,  as  other- 
wise, the  starch  is  often  indigestible.  In  any  case  the 
outer  surface  should  be  scraped  off  until  the  banana  be- 
comes slippery. 

To  manufacture  foods  that  are  'concentrated,  so 
that  the  body  may  acquire  its  nourishment  without  deal- 
ing with  bulk,  has  been  the  subject  of  many  experi- 
ments. But  it  has  been  proved  that  the  body  must  have 
bulk  in  order  to  stimulate  the  digestive  organs  to  suffi- 
cient activity,  and  to  clear  or  "  sweep  out  "  the  intestines. 

Most  vegetables  and  fresh  fruits  contain  so  much  cel- 
lulose that  they  are  invaluable  as  ballast  foods.  Favor- 
ite refreshments  a  century  ago  were  apples  and  nuts. 
This  is  a  perfect  combination,  as  the  bulk  of  the  apple 
satisfies  the  appetite  and  prevents  the  eating  of  too 
many  nuts.  If  heeded,  this  simple  rule  of  using  bulk  to 
supplement  concentrated  foods  will  do  much  towards 
producing  better  health.  Bulky  cereals,  as  whole-wheat 
meal,  corn-  and  oatmeal,  are  splendid  ballast  foods,  and, 
in  cases  of  auto-intoxication  or  constipation,  should  be 
used  to  replace  ordinary  flour  in  making  bread.  All  of 
the  ballast  foods  should  be  used  freely  in  either  case. 

The  dissolvent  group  includes  several  of  the  foods 
classed  under  minerals  and  bulk,  as  well  as  others  which 
contain  an  abundance  of  liquid.  Under  this  heading  we 
find  watery  fruits  and  vegetables;  gelatines,  water-ices, 
frappes  and  sherbets;  buttermilk,  skimmed  milk,  fruit 
drinks,  tea,  coffee,  water  and  stock  and  milk  soups. 
About  two-thirds  of  the  body's  weight  is  due  to  water. 
Approximately  four  and  a  half  pints  are  given  off  each 
day  in  the  waste  and  exhaustion,  a  portion  of  which  is 
actually  manufactured  in  the  body  tissues,  the  remainder 
coming  from  food  and  drink.  Roughly  speaking,  in  or- 
der to  maintain  the  fluid  balance  for  a  day,  at  least  two 
quarts  of  liquid  should  be  taken  by  an  adult,  besides 
that  contained  in  the  food.  In  case  the  diet  is  over- 
heavy  in  meat  and  protein,  more  will  be  needed  to  carry 


CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD  AND  COOKERY   19 

off  urea  and  other  products  of  protein  waste  than  when 
it  is  largely  vegetarian  or  balanced. 

THE  CALORIES  AS  A  BASIS  OF  FOOD  VALUES 

To  the  average  housewife  the  modern  literature  on 
food,  with  its  terms  and  calculations  far  removed  from 
her  experience  and  knowledge,  reads  so  much  like  a  text- 
book of  mathematics,  that  at  the  mere  mention  of  "  calor- 
ies "  she  metaphorically  "  throws  up  her  hands "  and 
banishes  all  further  thought  of  scientific  cookery.  As  a 
matter  of  fact  many  of  the  discussions  of  food,  which 
involve  the  question  of  calories  and  the  resulting  calcu- 
lations, are  absolutely  impracticable  for  ordinary  use  and 
overlook  certain  fundamental  conceptions  in  the  question 
of  dietetics.  For  example,  through  the  experience  of 
years  housewives  have  built  up  a  series  of  food  combina- 
tions which,  when  examined  according  to  scientific 
standards,  prove  to  be  properly  balanced  in  regard  to 
the  various  foodstuffs  and  to  have  the  approximate  num- 
ber of  calories  to  provide  a  sufficient  diet.  We  find,  for 
example,  meat  is  served  with  potatoes  almost  universally, 
an  approximate  balance  of  foodstuffs,  or  rather  a  start 
towards  that  end.  In  other  words  the  experience  of  the 
household  has  shown  that  certain  combinations  and  cer- 
tain amounts  of  food  keep  the  family  in  health  and  fur- 
nish the  necessary  material  for  repair  of  the  body  and 
for  growth.  What  the  scientists  have  been  doing  in  the 
past  generation  has  been  to  check  up  practice  and  place 
it  upon  a  formal  basis  so  that  rules  for  diet  might  be 
formulated. 

Now  to  make  it  possible  to  eliminate  guess-work  from 
cookery  and  dietetics  and  enable  us  to  figure  out  the 
whys  and  wherefores  of  the  customs  of  the  kitchen  with 
absolute  accuracy  it  was  necessary  to  invent  new  terms. 
So  it  came  about  that  "  calorie "  appeared.  There  is 
nothing  especially  complicated  about  this  term  and  any 
housewife,  in  spite  of  her  doubts  and  apprehensions,  can 
easily  acquire  all  the  fundamental  conceptions  which  it 
needs  to  add  to  her  considerations  in  diet.  "  Calorie  "  is 
simply  a  term  of  measurement  to  show  how  much  value 
a  food  has  in  the  work  the  body  has  to  do.  The  house- 
wife, through  practice,  is  entirely  familiar  with  a  gas 


20  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

bill  made  out  in  terms  of  "  feet "  and  probably  with  an 
electric  light  bill  in  terms  of  "  kilowatts  " ;  also  that  the 
automobile  is  said  to  have  so  much  "  horse  power." 
Few  of  us  could  give  an  accurate  definition  of  these 
terms,  but  we  accept  them  as  the  measure  of  our  gas  or 
of  our  electric  light  bill,  or  of  the  power  of  the  car, 
without  much  thought  or  consideration.  So  a  calorie 
is  a  similar  unit  of  measure,  only  this  time  applied  to  our 
food.  If  a  scientist  is  asked  for  the  meaning  of  the 
term  he  will  say  that  "  it  is  the  amount  of  heat  which 
will  raise  the  temperature  of  so  much  water  so  many 
degrees."  He  would,  however,  probably  speak  more  pre- 
cisely and  say  the  amount  of  heat  which  will  raise  a 
pound  of  water  four  degrees  Fahrenheit,  but  all  one 
needs  to  know  to  apply  the  knowledge  "  calorie  "  repre- 
sents to  the  household  is  that  each  food  contains  so  many 
calories  and  we  must  have  about  so  many  of  them  in 
our  daily  diet. 

In  short,  calorie  means  heat  and  in  this  definition  we 
see  again  that  science  is  merely  verifying  an  ancient 
tradition  based  on  the  knowledge  gained  from  experi- 
ence. "  Cool  as  a  cucumber  "  is  a  phrase  as  old  as  the 
hills,  but  the  new  science  of  food  values  proves  its  ac- 
curacy. The  cucumber  is  cool  —  lacks  heat  —  for  it 
takes  a  pound  to  supply  seventy  calories.  Then  we  all 
know  the  nursery  rhyme,  "  Pease  porridge  hot,"  and 
science  shows  that  it  is  hot,  for  dried  peas  supply  us  with 
1655  calories  per  pound.  And  "  pease  porridge  cold, 
pease  porridge  in  the  pot  nine  days  old  "  is  merely  an- 
other way  of  saying  that  the  heat  units  are  all  there  after 
nine  days. 

But  these  facts  need  in  no  way  confuse  us,  for  it  is  en- 
tirely unnecessary  and  impracticable  to  figure  out  exactly 
and  absolutely  the  calorie  content  of  each  article  of  diet 
and  the  amount  of  total  for  the  day.  The  most  efficient 
results  will  be  attained  by  fixing  firmly  in  the  mind  the 
general  proportions  and  general  values  of  the  different 
articles  of  food  and  checking  up  the  family  ration, 
roughly,  from  time  to  time.  The  principles  of  the  bal- 
anced ration  set  forth  in  the  preceding  pages  are,  as  a 
matter  of  fact,  entirely  sufficient  for  the  introduction  of 
scientific  cookery  into  the  household,  but  a  notion  of 


CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD  AND  COOKERY   21 

the  caloric  basis  of  "  food  values  "  is  doubtless  a  help 
in  understanding  the  problem  most  thoroughly. 

As  we  need  so  many  feet  of  gas  to  run  the  oven  in 
the  gas  stove  for  baking,  so  we  need  so  many  calories 
of  food  value  to  run  our  bodies  each  day.  Perhaps  it 
is  easier  to  understand  the  application  of  the  calorie  if 
we  consider  that  a  large  slice  of  bread,  a  large  potato, 
an  ordinary  pat  of  butter,  a  shredded  wheat  biscuit,  two 
ordinary  graham  crackers,  or  a  small  lamb  chop  each 
furnishes  approximately  one  hundred  calories  in  the 
daily  ration.  With  these  measures  as  a  basis  it  is  not 
so  difficult  to  understand  what  is  meant  by  saying  that 
the  average  adult  needs  from  2500  to  3000  calories  in 
the  food  of  his  daily  ration.  -We  all  know  from  experi- 
ence and  observation  that  a  woman  neither  requires  nor 
eats  as  much  food  as  a  man  and  her  requirements  have 
been  estimated  at  about  two-thirds  that  of  the  man.  An- 
other way  of  figuring  is  that  the  body  needs  so  many 
calories  for  so  much  weight,  and  this  brings  the  same 
result  for  a  woman  on  the  average  obviously  weighs 
less  than  a  man.  So  children  require  less  food  than  the 
adult  and  so  on.  The  requirements  for  food  which  the 
scientists  have  laid  down  simply  put  into  mathematical 
form  the  facts  most  of  us  have  known  and  put  more  or 
less  into  practice. 

A  rough  estimate  of  food  requirements  is  about  as 
follows : 

A  man  without  work     2450  calories 

A  man  doing  moderate   work 3000  calories 

A  man  doing  hard   work.... from  3400  to  5500  calories 

At  first  glance  it  may  appear  that  there  is  not  the  ex- 
pected difference  between  the  requirements  of  a  man 
doing  little  work  and  one  doing  a  great  deal.  But  we 
must  remember  that  the  largest  part  of  our  food  is  used 
up  in  the  unconscious  activities  of  the  body.  Even  when 
we  are  asleep  the  body  is  using  up  the  energy  derived 
from  the  food  so  that  the  unconscious  demands  require 
a  considerable  supply  of  food  in  themselves.  Another 
vagary  of  the  bodily  mechanism  is  that  brain  work  re- 
quires little  or  no  energy  from  our  food.  This  is  why 
professional  men  should  limit  their  food  intake  far 
below  that  of  the  day  laborer. 


22  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Perhaps  the  matter  of  the  amount  of  food  required 
may  be  summed  up  by  saying  that  the  average  man  needs 
from  three  to  four  pounds  of  food  a  day  —  this,  of 
course,  including  bulky  foods  of  a  low  caloric  value  — 
proportioned  according  to  the  principles  of  the  bal- 
anced ration.  For  it  is  not  sufficient  that  the  food  total 
the  2000  or  3000  calories  required ;  they  must  be  propor- 
tioned properly  among  proteins,  fats  and  carbohydrates. 
Most  of  the  dishes  which  appear  on  our  tables  combine 
the  foodstuffs  in  some  proportion  or  other.  One  has 
only  to  glance  at  a  steak,  for  example,  to  realize  that  it 
must  contain  fat  in  addition  to  the  protein  which  is  its 
preponderating  element.  It  is  now  believed  that  the 
food  elements  should  appear  in  about  the  following  pro- 
portions: i6f%  protein,  25%  fat,  and  the  balance,  or 
5^2  %j  carbohydrates.  In  other  words  we  should  eat 
half  as  much  again  fat  as  protein  and  two  and  a  half 
times  as  much  carbohydrates  as  fat.  The  principal  point 
of  difference  is  about  the  protein,  some  authorities  con- 
tending that  eight  per  cent  of  protein  in  the  diet  is  suffi- 
cient. 

But  in  estimating  the  demands  for  the  three  foodstuffs 
it  should  be  remembered  that  all  the  food  which  we  take 
in  is  not  available,  only  about  three-quarters  of  the  pro- 
tein, for  instance,  being  used  in  the  body,  so  that  a  cer- 
tajn  excess  beyond  the  theoretical  requirements  is  prob- 
ably desirable. 

From  the  foregoing  we  may  estimate  the  daily  food 
demands  as  follows : 

DAILY  FOOD  REQUIREMENTS 

Adult  of                                  Total  Carbo- 

150 pounds                              calories  Protein  Fat  hydrates 

At  rest  in  bed 1800  300  450  1050 

Slight  activity   2200  366  550  1284 

Light  work 2600  433  650  151? 

Moderately    hard   work 3000  500  750  1750 

Very  hard  work    3400-5500  566-916850-1350  1984-3234 

Children  require  more  food  in  proportion  to  their 
weight  than  adults.  Their  requirements  are  about  as 
follows : 

Age  o-  6  months 400-  800  calories 


CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD  AND  COOKERY      23 

6-12  months 800  calories 

2  years   900  calories 

4  years 1200  calories 

8  years   1400  calories 

12  years   1600  calories 

The   following  table  gives,   roughly,  the  approximate 
constituents  of  the  principal  foods.     In  calculating  food 

values  it  is  necessary  to  know  that  an  ounce  of  protein 

produces  about  120  calories ;  and  an  ounce  of  carbo- 
hydrates about  the  same,  while  an  ounce  of  fat  produces 
over  twice  as  much,  or  approximately  260  calories. 

TABLE  OF  FOOD  VALUES 

Calories  per  Calories 

Food  pound  as       Calories      Calories      of  Carbo- 

purchased     of  Protein  of  Fat        hydrates 

BEEF 

Brisket 1165               235  930               

Chuck  rib 755                305  450                

Flanks    1185                365  820                

Porterhouse  steak  ..   mo               375  735                

Sirloin  steak 985                325  660                

Tenderloin    1330                320  1010                

Plate 1200               255  945               

Ribs 1 1 10               280  830                

Round 745               375  37O               

Rump   1065               300  765                

Forequarter    905                280  625                

Hindquarter  950               315  635                

Soup  stock  170               no  60               

Heart    1160               310  850               

Liver    555               395  x  IO                   5° 

Tongue    545               275  170               

Roast,  cooked 1620               435  1 185                

Round,  cooked 840                540  300                

Corned  1270               280  990               

Tripe    270               225  45                

Dried   780               5*5  265                

VEAL 

Breast    645               300  345                

Leg  585               3oo  225 

Cutlets   705               395  3io               

LAMB 

Leg 1130               310  820               

Chops,  cooked  1470               360  mo                

Roast,   cooked 900               385  515                

MUTTON 

Leg   900               225  675                

Roast,  cooked 1420              490  930               .... 


MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 


TABLE  OF  FOOD  VALUES  —  Continued 


Calories  per 

Calories 

Food 

pound  as 

Calories 

Calories 

of  Carbo- 

purchased 

of  Protein 

of  Fat 

hydrates 

PORK 

Fresh  ham  

.  .    1520 

280 

1240 

.... 

Chops   

•  •   1340 

260 

1080 

.... 

Pigs'  feet  

..     365 

80 

285 

Ham,  smoked  .... 

,  ,    1670 

285 

1385 

.... 

Bacon   

2685 

185 

2500 

.... 

Sausage  

.  .  2125 

250 

1875 

.... 

POULTRY 

Chicken,    broiler.  . 

.  .     295 

250 

45 



Fowls    

••     775 

270 

505 

.... 

Turkey  

.  .  1075 

330 

745 

.... 

FISH 

Bass    

.  .    200 

165 

35 

.... 

Catfish   

..     9i5 

225 

690 

.... 

Cod   

..     165 

163 

2 

.... 

Eel  

..     580 

290 

290 

.... 

Haddock   

..     165 

163 

2 

Halibut  

.  .    470 

300 

170 

.... 

Mackerel  

..     365 

225 

140 

.... 

Salmon  

000 

275 

325 

.... 

Lobster  

.  .    150 

00 

60 

.... 

'  EGGS   

.  .    720 

260 

460 

.... 

BUTTER  

.  .  3605 

20 

3585 

.... 

CHEESE 

American  

.  .  2055 

500 

1495 

Cottage  

.  .   510 

400 

35 

75 

Neufchatel  

•  .  1520 

365 

1130 

25 

Roquefort    

.  .  1700 

440 

1210 

50 

MILK  

.  .    325 

65 

165 

95 

CEREALS 

Barley,  pearled  .  .  . 

.  .  1650 

60 

IO 

1480 

Buckwheat  flour.  . 

.  .  1620 

120 

35 

1465 

Cornmeal  

.  .  1545 

I4O 

170 

1235 

Oatmeal  

1860 

300 

290 

1270 

Oatmeal,  boiled 

..     285 

50 

10 

225 

.     Rolled  oats  

.  .   1850 

320 

270 

1260 

Rice  

.  .   1630 

150 

10 

1470 

Wheat  flour,  entire 

•   1675 

260 

80 

1335 

Wheat  flour,  graham.  1670 

260 

90 

1400 

Wheat  flour,  white 

.  .   1650 

2IO 

40 

1400 

Macaroni  

..   1665 

260 

30 

1375 

Spaghetti  

1660 

230 

15 

1415 

Bread,  brown  .... 

.  .   1050 

IOO 

75 

875 

Bread,  corn  

.  .   1205 

150 

190 

865 

Bread,  rye  

..   1180 

175 

25 

980 

Bread,  white  

..   1215 

175 

50 

990 

CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD  AND  COOKERY      25 


TABLE  OF  FOOD  VALUES  —  Continued 

Calories  per 

Food  pound  as 

purchased 
CAKE 

Baker's 1370 

Coffee  1625 

Fruit  1760 

Gingerbread    1670 

Sponge  1795 

Sugar  cookies 1920 

Doughnuts 2000 

PIE 

Apple    1270 

Mince   1335 

Squash   . .     840 

CANDY    1600 

CORN  STARCH   1675 

SUGAR  1860 

VEGETABLES  , 

Asparagus,  cooked . .     220 

Beans,  Lima,  green.     255 

Beets,  cooked 185 

Cabbage  125 

Carrots 160 

Celery 70 

Corn,  green 180 

Cucumbers    70 

Onions,  cooked   ....     190 

Parsnips    .  ...     240 

Peas,  green    255 

Potatoes    310 

Potatoes,    boiled....     440 

Spinach,  cooked   . . .     260 

Tomatoes    105 

Turnips    125 

APPLES   220 

BANANAS    300 

CRANBERRIES     170 

ORANGES    170 

PRUNES    255 

STRAWBERRIES    175 

NUTS 

Almonds,  edible  part  3030 

Chestnuts    1125 

Cocoanut,  prepared.  3125 

Peanuts,   edible 2560 

SOUPS 

Beef    120 

Bouillon,  canned  ...       50 

Chicken,   canned....     100 

Pea,  canned   .......     235 


Calories 

Calories 

Calories 

of  Carbo- 

of Protein 

of  Fat 

hydrates 

1  20 

180 

1070 

125 

300 

1  200 

IOO 

400 

1260 

IOO 

390 

1180 

no 

440 

1245 

125 

435 

1360 

130 

870 

IOOO 

60 

400 

810 

no 

500 

725 

50 

300 

490 

1600 

1675 

... 

... 

1860 

40 

135 

45 

60 

10 

185 

45 

40 

IOO 

25 

IO 

00 

20 

10 

130 

15 

5 

50 

18 

16 

146 

13 

8 

49 

18 

77 

95 

25 

16 

70 

8 

177 

35 

5 

270 

50 

5 

385 

40 

170 

50 

17 

16 

72 

17 

5 

103 

5 

IO 

205 

17 

17 

366 

7 

23 

140 

12 

5 

163 

20 

235 

17 

23 

135 

4IO 

2275 

345 

1  2O 

225 

780 

125 

2375 

625 

500 

1600 

460 

85 

15 

20 

40 

5 

5 

70 

5 

.  25 

70 

30 

135 

26  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

But  it  is  not  sufficient  that  the  diet  contain  the  neces- 
sary number  of  calories,  properly  distributed  among  the 
proteins,  carbohydrates  and  fats,,  that  there  should  be  a 
sufficient  bulk  to  insure  the  normal  functioning  of  the 
bowels,  and  a  proper  amount  of  water  and  minerals,  for 
scientists  have  discovered  that  certain  mysterious  sub- 
stances, vitamins,  are  also  necessary  and  vital  to  health. 
What  these  substances  are  we  do  not  know,  but  they  ap- 
pear to  be  present  in  fresh  foods,  as  meat,  eggs,  milk, 
and  vegetables,  and  removed  in  the  processes  of  manu- 
facture of  many  foods.  It  is  necessary,  therefore,  that- 
fresh  foods  be  included  in  the  diet  to  provide  these  sub- 
stances; another  argument  in  favor  of  the  balanced 
ration. 


CHAPTER  II 

THE  DIET  IN  SPRING,  SUMMER,  FALL,  AND 
WINTER 

If  a  family  is  fed  a  ration  regulated  according  to  the 
principles  of  balance,  and  deluged  with  the  three  other 
great  foods  —  sunlight,  air,  and  water  —  seasonal  evils 
associated  with  foods  will  amount  to  little,  and  the  fam- 
ily will  be  immune  to  many  of  the  ills  which  arise  when 
the  principles  of  dietetics  and  hygiene  are  neglected. 
But  in  many  families  custom  so  largely  regulates  the 
menu  according  to  wrong  principles  that  spring  fever 
and  the  like  are  very  real  conditions. 

The  usual  winter  diet,  for  example,  consists  of  greasy 
foods,  such  as  sausages,  fried  bacon,  roast  pork  and  pork 
chops  —  too  many  sweets,  pie  and  rich  cake  —  with  a 
scarcity  of  fruits  and  vegetables,  and  so  is  responsible 
for  the  ills  associated  with  spring.  The  over-fed  body 
rebels  against  the  cloying  diet,  impoverished  blood  shows 
itself  in  anemia  and  blotched  skin,  pale  cheeks  are  the 
guiding  posts  to  tired  stomachs,  and  the  weary  liver 
manifests  itself  in  overpowering  sleepiness.  The  old- 
time  disease,  "  spring  fever,"  tinges  the  beauty  of  the 
early  spring  days  with  melancholy  sickness  and  ill- 
temper. 

A  late  March  visit  to  a  city  school  showed  vividly  the 
general  tone  of  the  system  at  this  season,  where  proper 
dietetic  principles  had  been  neglected.  The  building  was 
situated  in  a  good  locality,  and  the  children  were  from 
well-to-do  families.  The  pinched,  wan  faces,  dull  eyes, 
yellow  skins  of  the  pupils  and  the  general  atmosphere  of 
lassitude  which  prevailed  throughout  the  building  was 
appalling.  "  I  cannot  do  anything  with  them,"  said  the 
discouraged  teacher.  "  They  will  not  respond ;  they  are 
either  too  tired  or  too  lazy."  "  Spring  fever,"  or,  more 
scientifically,  the  ills  of  spring,  had  gripped  the  children 
in  a  relentless  grasp  and  showed  its  insidious  presence 

27 


28  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

in  auto-intoxication,  or  the  poisoning  of  the  body  through 
its  own  waste. 

These  ills  are  mainly  due  to  improper  diet.  In  the 
spring  the  hearty  winter  foods  must  be  forgotten,  and 
replaced  by  lighter  dishes,  rather  than  by  adding  the  lat- 
ter to  meals  already  too  heavy.  A  well  known  physician 
once  remarked,  "  In  treating  disease  diagnosis  comes 
first,  diet  second,  and  medicine  last."  So  the  house- 
mother must  learn  not  only  how  to  get  her  family  well, 
but  how  to  prevent  illness  due  to  improper  food.  Un- 
fortunately the  housewives  who  have  attained  this  knowl- 
edge, or  apply  it  to  every-day  living,  are  few  —  and  it 
takes  the  doctor  with  attendant  medicines  to  bring  the 
family  into  a  normal  state.  His  bill,  by  the  way,  goes 
into  the  family  budget,  an  unnecessary  item,  blamed  to 
the  high  cost  of  living!  Such  phrases  as  "biliousness," 
"  gas  in  the  stomach,"  "  face  broken  out,"  "  paleness," 
"  anemia,"  "  constipation,"  "  touch  of  rheumatism," 
"  colds,"  are  conditions  which  are  closely  related  to  diet, 
as  the  house-mother  who  understands  the  importance  of 
diet  in  disease  is  aware. 

If  the  body  acquires  the  habit  of  eating  over-hearty 
foods  in  winter,  a  change  of  diet,  like  the  gradual  transi- 
tion from  winter  to  summer  clothing,  should  be  made 
slowly.  This  not  only  accustoms  the  body  to  a  new 
regime,  but  possesses  the  added  advantage  of  bringing 
about  the  change  so  insensibly  that  all  danger  of  dis- 
agreeable comment  from  the  family  is  obviated.  It  must 
always  be  borne  in  mind  that,  while  a  person  is  well  and 
active,  the  same  relative  amount  of  food  is  needed  by  the 
body  throughout  the  year,  and  that  the  difference  be- 
tween winter  and  summer  diet,  for  example,  lies  not  in 
quantity,  but  in  judicious  substitution. 

Of  all  the  digestive  organs  the  liver  is  the  busiest.  It 
has  been  named  the  "  clearing  house  of  the  body,"  for  it 
is  there  that  much  of  the  cleansing  of  the  blood  is  done 
and  the  body  poisons  or  toxins  are,  so  to  speak,  strained 
out,  and  the  blood  purified.  Moreover,  it  is  the  great 
storehouse  for  sugar  or  "  glycogen  "  and  prepares  other 
food  stuffs  for  assimilation.  Now  the  usual  winter  diet 
is  excessively  sweet  and  starchy  —  hot  breads,  griddle 
cakes,  quantities  of  potatoes,  too  much  cocoa,  macaroni, 


THE  DIET  29 

rice,  rich  puddings,  pies  and  cakes,  cereals  loaded  with 
sugar,  all  of  them  good  in  their  place,  but,  as  a  general 
rule,  used  indiscriminately.  For  instance,  mince  pie,  a 
rich  and  hearty  food,  is  the  frequent  dessert  of  a  heavy 
dinner,  whereas,  to  preserve  the  dietetic  balance,  it 
should  be  used  to  supplement  a  scanty  meal.  The  ex- 
cess food  causes  the  digestive  organs  to  overwork 
(thereby  breaking  down),  the  liver  is  called  upon  to  do 
extra  work  in  storing  up  the  sweets,  and  a  headache 
frequently  results.  When  it  is  understood  that  very 
heavy  food,  eaten  out  of  place,  tires  the  organs,  it  may 
easily  be  seen  why  too  much  starch  or  sweet  finally 
clogs  the  liver,  causing  the  secretion  of  bile  to  accumulate, 
and  bringing  about  biliousness,  auto-intoxication,  and 
indigestion. 

"  Gas  in  the  stomach  "  usually  indicates  a  tired  condi- 
tion or  a  lack  of  pepsin  in  the  gastric  juice.  A  blotched 
face  usually  follows,  whereas  the  latter  condition  often 
accompanies  anemia.  Constipation,  of  all  ills,  is  per- 
haps the  most  prevalent.  The  word  may  be  translated 
in  two  ways,  either  as  a  lack  of  bowel  movement  without 
cathartics,  or  in  the  sense  that  the  intestinal  movement 
goes  on  without  carrying  off  the  entire  waste.  Just  as 
an  iron  pipe  becomes  filled  with  rust  and  the  stream  of 
water  constantly  decreases,  the  large  intestine  can  be 
lined  with  waste  that  is  never  thoroughly  cleared  away. 
This  is  the  usual  type  of  spring  constipation,  and  it  car- 
ries with  it  extreme  lassitude  and  intestinal  indigestion, 
because  the  poisons  which  remain  in  the  intestines  are 
becoming  re-absorbed,  thereby  enabling  the  body  to  poi- 
son itself.  When  an  individual  is  in  this  condition,  he 
becomes  a  prey  to  every  passing  breeze  and  change  of 
temperature,  often  contracting  a  severe  cold  or  the 
"  grippe !  " 

All  of  these  unwell  conditions  can  be  alleviated,  and 
nearly  always  prevented,  if  the  correct  foods  appear  upon 
the  spring  table  - —  not  when  the  April  sun  shines  hot 
upon  the  waking  earth  and  the  insidious  poisons  have 
begun  to  work,  but  by  mid-March  when  the  body  first 
feels  the  change.  Nature  has  provided  for  this  exigency 
in  the  most  satisfactory  way,  for  along  with  the  warm 
days  come  the  spring  foods,  until,  by  early  April,  the 


30  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

markets  are  replete  with  the  tempting  greenery  of  the 
season. 

Ballast  or  bulky  foods  are  those  which  should  be  used 
to  replace  the  cathartics  and  physic  of  the  medicine  chest. 
Under  this  heading  we  find  the  fresh  green  vegetables, 
spinach,  cowslips,  dandelions  being  the  most  efficacious 
of  them  all.  Spinach  has  been  termed  by  the  French 
"  the  broom  of  the  stomach  "  because  it  is  so  bulky  that 
it  sweeps  through  the  alimentary  tract,  stimulating  the 
secretion  of  the  juices,  scraping  the  walls  and  carrying 
all  waste  away.  Spinach  once  a  day  for  a  week  or  more 
will  bring  about  immediate  results.  It  will  soon  pall 
upon  the  appetite,  if  it  is  always  served  in  the  same  way, 
but  any  housewife  with  imagination  (wherein  lies  the 
secret  of  good  cookery)  can  make  it  into  so  many  seduc- 
tive dishes,  that  a  complaint  will  not  be  heard.  As  plain 
"  greens/'  creamed,  poured  upon  toast,  and  surmounted 
with  poached  eggs,  scuffled,  in  salad  (either  combined 
with  other  vegetables  or  with  eggs),  boiled  with  ham, 
or  scalloped  with  salt  fish  —  it  can  be  used  for  any  meal 
in  the  day.  It  is  a  great  mistake  to  consider  foods  suit- 
able only  for  certain  occasions,  for  all  foods  are  so 
adaptable  that  they  can  be  prepared  in  diverse  ways  for 
breakfast,  luncheon  or  dinner,  and  whereas,  for  example, 
the  family  may  refuse  spinach  for  dinner,  they  will  wel- 
come it  for  breakfast  because  it  is  a  novelty! 

This  same  group  of  ballast  foods  includes  lettuce,  ro- 
maine  and  watercress  —  all  known  as  salad  plants. 
Watercress  has  been  used  since  great  antiquity  as  a 
spring  salad  and  tonic,  for  the  old  Greek  had,  in  a  way, 
a  greater  faith  in  diet  than  we  have  to-day. 

All  of  these  greens  contain  the  mineral  craved  by  the 
worn-out  tissues.  Iron,  potassium,  calcium,  sulphur, 
phosphorus,  all  these  and  many  more  are  contained  in 
all  growing  things.  It  is  due  to  Nature's  wonderful 
alchemy  that  so  many  minerals  can  be  eaten  at  once,  for 
were  a  like  amount  to  be  taken  in  the  form  of  medicine, 
severe  illness  and,  sometimes,  death  would  follow. 
Spinach  is  the  richest  in  iron  of  any  vegetable,  carrots 
follow,  while  dandelions,  beets,  salad  plants  and  all  veg- 
eatables  contain  certain  amounts.  Watercress  furnishes 
sulphur,  whereas  cauliflower,  onions  and  cabbage  are 


THE  DIET  31 

rich  not  only  in  sulphur,  but  phosphorus.  Butter  is  usu- 
ally adopted  as  a  seasoning  for  vegetables,  but,  when- 
ever possible,  olive  oil  should  be  substituted. 

There  is  no  more  refreshing  way  to  serve  vegetables 
than  in  a  salad,  and  in  the  springtime,  when  the  body 
needs  natural  tonics,  no  other  dressing  should  be  used 
than  olive  oil  and  lemon  juice.  Use  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  oil  and  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice,  well- 
mixed,  and  add  a  dash  of  salt  and  pepper.  This  will 
dress  salad  for  six  people.  Olive  oil,  however,  may  be 
rather  prohibitive  because  of  its  high  cost.  If  it  is  im- 
possible to  afford  it,  peanut  oil  may  be  substituted. 

A  green  salad  may  replace  the  main  course  at  a  lunch- 
eon, if  cheese,  eggs,  or  nuts  are  combined  with  it.  Cream 
cheese,  for  instance,  can  be  put  through  the  potato  ricer 
and  sprinkled  over  it  —  cream  cheese  may  be  served  with 
any  green  salad.  Sliced  hard-cooked  eggs  may  accom- 
pany cress  or  cooked  spinach,  and  nuts  are  delicious 
with  any  cabbage  or  celery  combination.  In  such  cases 
the  meal  should  commence  with  a  simple  soup,  and  a 
good  way  to  introduce  an  excess  of  mineral  into  the 
spring  diet  is  to  prepare  a  cream  of  lettuce,  cress,  or  spin- 
ach soup.  These  may  have  as  a  foundation  any  clear 
soup  stock  —  the  vegetable,  together  with  rice,  should  b,e 
simmered  in  it,  hot  milk  added  when  they  are  soft,  and 
the  whole  strained  and  thickened  with  egg.  Such  a  soup 
is  a  perfect  adjunct  to  a  luncheon.  Entire-wheat-meal 
bread  or  rolls  should  accompany  the  salad,*  and  the  des- 
sert may  consist  of  an  egg  and  milk  pudding  with  a 
simple  cookie  or  cake. 

But  Nature's  tonics  include  not  only  vegetables  but 
fruits  as  well.  The  citrous  group,  including  the  grape- 
fruit, orange  and  lemon,  are  wholesome  and  palatable. 
As  a  general  rule  the  lemon  is  used  in  beverages  —  in 
this  case  it  should  be  very  tart  —  or,  better  still,  be  left 
unsweetened.  A  baked  lemon  is  not  unpalatable,  and 
may  be  eaten  with  a  spoon,  and  lemon  juice  may  be  used 
in  any  case  as  a  substitute  for  vinegar.  In  lemon  jellies, 
in  salad  dressings,  poured  over  other  fruits,  served  in 
black  coffee,  in  pineapple  puddings,  and  in  other  ways, 
lemon  juice  may  be  served  to  the  family. 

Rhubarb,  while  it  is  really  a  vegetable,  is  served  as  a 


32  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

fruit  in  so  many  ways  that  it  need  never  become  a  mo- 
notony. As  a  gelatine,  baked  with  raisins,  stewed, 
cooked  in  cubes,  and  dressed  with  oil  and  lemon  juice, 
or  in  the  form  of  dumplings  or  shortcake,  it  is  delicious. 

Pineapple  appears  the  first  of  May  and  its  juice  is  a 
splendid  tonic.  About  the  second  week  in  May  straw- 
berry season  is  at  its  height.  Of  all  the  world-spanning 
fruits  it  is  the  foremost,  carrying  with  it  refreshed 
vitality  and  a  satisfied  appetite. 

All  of  these  spring  fruits  and  vegetables  should  be  sup- 
plemented by  at  least  two  quarts  of  water  daily  to  aid 
the  kidneys  in  eliminating  waste,  and  by  the  use  of  whole 
wheat  meal  bread  —  made  of  unrobbed  wheat  —  to  stimu- 
late the  action  of  the  intestines. 

THE  SUMMER  DIET 

The  sultry  nights,  scorching  noons  and  long,  languorous 
days  of  mid-summer  produce  a  relaxed  condition  in  the 
whole  body  and  this  torpor  must  be  overcome  before 
food  can  be  digested.  The  fundamental  principle  under- 
lying the  summer  diet  is  the  toning  up  of  the  digestive 
organs  to  the  point  where  they  will  respond  quickly  to 
food.  There  is  no  better  stimulant  than  a  hot  soup  or 
Bouillon,  served  without  cream.  Either  will  whip  the 
cells  of  the  stomach  into  action,  stimulate  the  gastric 
juices  and  pave  the  way  for  assimilation  of  solid  food. 
One  means  of  cooling  the  body  is  through  evaporation. 
When  perspiration  is  profuse,  evaporation  is  increased, 
and  when  a  cup  of  hot,  clear  soup  is  served,  it  not  only 
starts  the  gastric  juices,  but  induces  perspiration.  If 
preceded  by  the  soup,  a  salad,  punch  or  ice  will  not  pro- 
voke disturbance,  because  the  stomach  juices  are  already 
at  work  and  the  languid  condition  has  been  overcome. 

Ice  cream  and  iced  drinks  are  gastronomically  pleas- 
ing, no  doubt,  and  during  the  actual  moment  of  eating 
produce  a  passing  sensation  of  coolness.  However  in 
reality  there  is  no  type  of  food  more  heating,  because  the 
stomach  is  chilled  and  digestion  is  consequently  retarded ; 
the  sudden  cold  checks  the  flow  of  perspiration,  causing 
waste  products,  ordinarily  expelled  through  the  pores,  to 
be  retained,  and  metabolism,  or  the  burning  of  the  tis- 
sues, is  thereby  increased,  because  the  body  machinery 


THE  DIET  33 

is  clogged.  Besides  all  this,  most  ices  and  cold  drinks 
are  dependent  upon  ice  cream,  chocolate,  or  cream  in 
varying  degrees  as  a  basis,  and  are  highly  sweetened  to 
suit  the  popular  taste.  Cream  and  chocolate  are  not 
heating  foods,  but  sugar  in  any  form  is  a  heat  producer, 
so,  in  addition  to  the  clogging  of  the  system,  most  so- 
called  cooling  creams  and  drinks  become  heating  agents, 
because  of  their  constituents.  The  increase  of  heat  does 
not  mean  that  the  temperature  of  the  body  rises  above 
normal,  but  simply  that  the  sensation  of  heat  becomes 
more  pronounced.  In  rare  cases,  however,  the  sudden 
chill,  or  the  accession  of  an  over-abundance  of  heating 
food,  will  produce  a  severe  attack  of  indigestion,  with 
a  consequent  rise  of  temperature. 

Meat  is  heating  because  it  contains  certain  stimulating 
juices  —  is  a  quick  fuel  —  and  during  assimilation  causes 
a  greater  breaking  down  of  tissue  than  any  other  food. 
A  meat  substitute  contains  all  the  elements  of  meat,  with- 
out being  stimulating  and  heating.  Under  this  heading 
may  be  mentioned  eggs,  nuts,  cheese,  fish  and  milk,  or 
combinations  of  foodstuffs  such  as  macaroni  with  cheese 
sauce,  or  potato  and  nut  salad  with  oil  dressing.  In  or- 
der to  be  efficacious  any  substitute  dish  must  contain 
both  protein  and  fats,  which  are  the  principal  constituents 
of  meat.  For  instance,  a  salad  of  cottage  cheese 
(which  is  made  of  skimmed  milk)  must  be  supplemented 
with  an  olive  oil  dressing  in  order  to  be  a  satisfactory 
meat  substitute.  The  average  active  family  should  have 
a  small  amount  of  meat  once  a  day,  because  the  system 
craves  variety.  The  most  acceptable  meats  for  summer 
use  appear  in  lighter  form,  as  boiled  ham  or  tongue, 
chicken  in  various  ways,  chops,  veal,  or  pressed  corned 
beef  and  meat  loaves.  The  balance  of  the  meal  should 
consist  largely  of  fresh  vegetables  with  bread,  butter 
and  a  sweet. 

Every  meal,  in  addition  to  meat,  or  meat  substitute, 
should  be  enlivened  by  green  and  fresh  vegetables.  For 
convenience  green  vegetables  may  be  termed  those  which 
are  served  raw  —  including  lettuce,  cress,  escarole,  ro- 
maine,  celery,  new  dandelions  and  radishes,  while  under 
the  head  of  fresh  vegetables  may  be  grouped  all  the 
remaining  products  of  the  garden.  Green  vegetables 


34  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

should  be  served  raw,  as  salads  —  not  the  usual  mayon- 
naise-drenched, nut-sprinkled  salad  of  the  American 
home,  but  the  deliciously  seasoned,  oil-absorbed  dish  of 
the  French.  It  is  an  easy  matter  to  buy  a  prepared 
dressing  at  the  groceries  —  to  pour  it  over  a  dish  of  wet 
leaves  and  call  it  a  salad.  It  is  another  matter  to  pre- 
pare it  so  that  the  family  longs  for  it.  The  reason  that 
Mary  will  not  eat  lettuce,  or  John  romaine,  is  not  usually 
because  of  the  food,  but  of  the  faulty  preparation.  Any 
green  salad  must  be  carefully  dried,  the  French  dress- 
ing poured  over  it,  and  then  mixed,  or  "  fatigued  "  as  the 
French  say,  until  it  is  so  thoroughly  mixed  that  the  leaves 
look  wilted.  Then  only  will  the  salad  fulfil  its  mission. 
Fresh  greens  dressed  in  this  way  are  usually  suitable  for 
breakfast,  luncheon  or  dinner,  while  a  salad  of  mixed 
vegetables,  of  fish,  eggs,  potatoes,  or  meat  should  be 
served  only  as  the  main  dish  at  luncheon  or  dinner.  A 
mayonnaise  or  a  heavy  cream  dressing  has  no  place 
with  the  salad  of  an  otherwise  heavy  meal.  There  is 
no  better  summer  food  than  olive  oil  —  but  it  must  be 
used  as  a  part  of,  rather  than  as  an  addition  to,  a  meal, 
as  otherwise  the  excess  fat  will  upset  digestion.  Fresh 
vegetables  should  be  stewed  in  as  little  water  as  possible, 
so  that  the  liquid  may  serve  as  sauce,  and  be  seasoned  as 
needed,  with  salt,  pepper  and  olive  oil,  or  butter. 

During  the  winter  season  hot  breads  have  a  certain 
place  in  the  diet,  but  in  summertime  they  should  be  fore- 
gone as  they  are  liable  to  cause  auto-intoxication.  When 
they  are  used,  they  should  be  of  a  lighter  variety,  as 
baking  powder  biscuits,  or  whole  wheat  gems.  There 
is,  however,  no  better  time  for  the  introduction  of  de- 
licious yeast  breads  than  during  this  time  of  automobile 
luncheons  and  picnics,  and  occasionally  rasin  and  nut 
bread,  a  loaf  of  graham  or  rye,  or  old-fashioned  Johnny- 
cake  will  often  retrieve  an  otherwise  scanty  meal. 

For  the  summer  dessert  there  is  no  food  so  suitable 
as  fruit,  and,  if  rightly  prepared  and  served  in  a  variety 
of  ways,  it  will  never  become  tiresome.  When  the  day 
is  exceptionally  warm,  a  fruit  ice  has  a  place  in  the 
menu  because  it  introduces  both  water  and  fruit  juice. 
When  an  ice  cream  is  to  be  served,  it  should  be  used  in 
a  menu  scanty  in  fat,  as  otherwise  it  will  be  overheating. 


THE  DIET  35 

If  iced  drinks  must  be  used,  let  them  be  of  acid  qual- 
ity, as  lemonade,  orangeade,  pineapple  punch,  or  rasp- 
berryade,  rather  than  heavy  iced-coffee  or  chocolate. 
Ginger  ale  is  a  good  summer  drink  because  it  is  so  pep- 
pery that  it  acts  as  a  stimulant  —  although  too  much, 
like  an  overabundance  of  spice,  will  cause  the  stomach 
muscles  to  become  so  relaxed  that  they  refuse  to  respond 
except  to  stimulus. 

In  planning  the  summer  diet,  the  housekeeper  must 
lay  aside  all  tradition  of  the  particular  foods  suitable 
for  each  meal,  and  when  asparagus  is  in  season,  for  in- 
stance, serve  it  creamed  for  breakfast,  or  introduce  let- 
tuce as  a  breakfast  salad,  while  poached  eggs  for  lunch, 
or  macaroni  and  cheese  at  dinner  may  prove  acceptable. 
In  other  words  the  summer  diet  must  not  be  stereotyped 
—  rather  it  should  be  so  lenient  that  the  foods  may  con- 
form to  the  weather,  and  the  housewife  should  be  con- 
versant with  food  values  in  order  to  plan  the  meals  ac- 
cording to  rough  dietetic  standards. 

Meat  is  by  no  means  the  most  expensive  item  in  the 
living  budget,  and  the  housewife  living  on  a  limited  in- 
come will  find  it  difficult  to  plan  summer  meals  within 
her  allowance  when  the  bills  for  green  stuffs  and  fruits 
are  high.  However,  menus  can  be  planned  to  suit  every 
pocketbook,  and,  while  it  may  not  be  possible  to  purchase 
fresh  fruits  and  vegetables  when  they  first  appear,  they 
soon  drop  to  a  normal  figure.  A  young  wife  who  was 
living  for  the  first  time  in  a  city  flat  displayed  with  pride 
her  garden !  She  was  fortunate  enough  to  possess  a 
back  porch,  about  eight  feet  square;  the  ingenious  hus- 
band had  constructed  two  shelves  on  the  porch  floor  and 
on  each  of  the  shelves  were  placed  boxes  of  earth  in 
which  cress,  lettuce  and  radishes  were  growing.  "  I 
simply  had  to  have  salad,"  remarked  the  girl,  "  and  as  we 
can't  afford  to  buy  it  we've  grown  it  here  —  and  it's  such 
fun,"  she  added. 

A  woman  who  is  really  interested  will  contrive  to 
feed  her  family  on  the  right  food  under  all  circumstances. 

THE  FALL  AND  WINTER  DIET 

Diet  in  the  winter  differs  from  that  of  any  other  sea- 
son. It  is  a  time  of  brisk  winds,  snow  and  ice,  and  the 


36  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

colder  the  weather  the  greater  oxidation  there  is  in  the 
body.  The  fact  that  food  is  to  the  body  as  coal  to  the 
furnace  means  no  more  to  the  majority  of  educated 
housewives  than  the  falling  of  a  rain  drop,  for  the  truth 
that  food  makes  warmth  and  heat,  activity  in  little  bodies, 
and  the  energy  of  great  minds  does  not  seem  real. 

People  who  exist  in  warm  rooms  and  live  at  low  rates 
of  speed  can  eat  hot-house  foods  in  a  hot-house  at- 
mosphere, but  those  who  really  revel  in  the  cold  weather 
are  buoyed  up  by  a  wholesome  winter  diet  to  all  vicissi- 
tudes of  wind  and  storm.  Those  who  keep  warm  when 
the  thermometer  hovers  near  zero  are  not  necessarily 
swathed  in  heavy  flannels,  muffled  with  scarfs  and  bur- 
dened with  furs  —  they  may  be  those  whose  rosy  cheeks, 
bright  eyes  and  springing  step  denote  correct  feeding 
and  adequate  digestion.  Right  feeding  in  winter  does 
not  concern  itself  with  quantity  but  rather  with  furnish- 
ing a  sufficient  amount  of  nourishment  with  a  minimum 
of  waste.  The  individual  who  eats  too  much  cannot  util- 
ize the  surplus,  and  it  must  be  passed  off,  partly  digested, 
as  waste  from  the  skin,  kidneys  and  bowels.  This  over- 
exerts the  waste  channel  and  much  of  the  energy  gained 
from  the  food  is  used  in  eliminating  waste.  The  vitality 
is  thereby  lowered  and  the  individual  becomes  "  run- 
down "  and  is  subject  to  colds,  grippe,  and  indigestion. 
More  complete  digestion  and  less  waste  is  the  efficient 
fundamental  of  the  winter  diet. 

Fuel  foods  are  meats,  starches,  sweets  and  fats.  Meat 
makes  muscle,  enriches  the  blood  and  furnishes  heat,  and, 
for  most  of  us,  it  is  a  necessity  in  the  winter  diet. 

Starches  and  sweets  are  fuel  or  activity  foods,  their 
mission  being  to  create  quick  energy.  When  a  sudden 
heat  is  desired,  the  housewife  adds  a  little  kindling  to 
the  dying  fire.  Where  the  vitality  is  lowered  a  cup  of 
cocoa,  or  a  little  rice  with  melted  jelly,  will  restore  en- 
ergy, because  it  adds  kindling  to  the  body  flame.  But, 
like  the  fire  of  light  wood,  it  is  soon  consumed,  and  the 
inertia  again  appears.  Starch  is  to  the  diet  as  kindling 
to  the  fire;  it  produces  a  quick  heat,  then  burns  itself 
out.  Prodding  the  body  to  greater  activity  on  a  diet 
of  starch  is  as  criminal  as  beating  a  horse  that  is  old  and 
weak,  yet  it  is  a  common  practice  in  many  homes ! 


f 

"I/ 


1«* 


•** 


£ 


TABLE  SET  FOR  HOME  BREAKFAST 


AFTER-DINNER  COFFEE  SERVICE 


THE  DIET  37 

Besides  meat  to  make  muscle  and  energy,  starch  to 
furnish  quick  energy,  and  fat  to  afford  reserve  force, 
the  body  needs,  in  winter  as  in  summer,  the  eliminating 
qualities  of  fresh  fruits,  and  uncanned  or  fresh  veg- 
etables to  cleanse  the  blood  and  keep  the  waste  channels 
awake  and  active.  In  England  the  cranberry  is  more 
generally  used  and  appreciated  for  this  purpose  than  is 
the  case  in  this  country.  In  northern  countries  the  cran- 
berry is  gathered  as  a  precious  winter  food,  dried  on 
long  strings,  and  used  as  an  antidote  to  the  overmuch  fat 
demanded  by  the  rigorous  winter.  Like  the  greens  of 
the  spring  diet  the  cranberry,  through  its  citric  acid  and 
iron,  has  a  definite  and  neglected  place  in  the  winter 
menu. 

Oranges,  lemons  and  grapefruit  may  also  be  added  to 
the  list  of  the  winter's  tonic  fruits,  any  one  containing 
a  well  defined  amount  of  citric  acid.  Whenever  they  can 
be  obtained,  grapes  are  an  unequaled  winter  fruit,  bring- 
ing tartrates  of  soda,  potash,  phosphoric  acid,  lime, 
magnesia  and  iron  to  the  body  in  such  form  as  to  be  al- 
most immediately  assimilated  into  the  blood.  It  is  need- 
less to  state  that  when  canned,  made  into  jelly  or  mar- 
malade, grapes,  like  all  the  preserved  fruits,  lose  their 
efficiency  as  tonic  fruits  and  become  sweets-. 

As  in  the  diet  for  the  rest  of  the  year,  the  fresh  veg- 
etable has  a  definite  place  in  the  winter  menu.  The  term 
signifies  not  only  green  vegetables,  but  all  that  are  not 
canned,  as  beets,  carrots,  turnips,  parsnips,  oyster-plant, 
onions  and  cabbage.  None  of  these  lose  their  salts  and 
acids  when  taken  from  the  ground,  although  the  water  is 
somewhat  evaporated,  causing  a  withered  appearance. 
Of  the  green  vegetables  peculiar  to  the  winter  season, 
celery  is  generally  available.  As  it  contains  a  generous 
proportion  of  salts  or  minerals  it  is  peculiarly  valuable 
as  a  blood  food.  Watercress  may  be  found  under  the  ice 
in  all  northern  brooks  —  a  bountiful  provision  of  Nature 
to  supply  phosphorous  and  sulphur  in  sufficient  quanti- 
ties. Lettuce,  endive  and  parsley  can  be  obtained 
throughout  the  year  in  city  markets  and  are  valuable  as- 
sets to  the  winter  menu.  In  the  country  stores  they  can- 
not be  secured,  but  there  is  no  reason  why  any  housewife 
with  a  scrap  of  land  at  her  disposal  cannot  raise  them  in 


38  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

hot  beds.  In  case  this  is  not  feasible  they  may  be  grown 
in  window  boxes. 

As  lettuce  or  endive  do  not  need  much  sun  or  demand 
much  heat,  it  is  always  possible  to  find  a  suitable  window 
for  them.  Parsley,  to  be  of  rich  green,  needs  sunlight. 
An  attractive  way  to  grow  it  is  to  obtain  a  wooden  paint 
bucket,  bore  half  inch  holes  in  the  sides,  fill  the  bucket 
with  rich  earth,  and  plant  the  seeds  in  the  holes.  When 
hung  in  a  sunny  kitchen  window  the  seeds  will  germi- 
nate in  about  two  weeks  —  the  final  result  being  not  only 
a  delightful  seasoning  for  the  winter  foods,  but  a  real 
ornament  to  the  room. 

Mince  pie,  sausages,  griddle  cakes,  roast  pork,  oatmeal, 
doughnuts,  pork  and  beans  and  suet  puddings,  all  have 
a  certain  niche  in  the  winter  menu  but  they  must  be  used 
in  proper  combination.  Sausage  is  a  fuel  food,  for  ex- 
ample, and  should  not  be  used  in  a  menu  otherwise  re- 
plete with  fat.  To  illustrate,  a  luncheon  of  sausage, 
fried  potatoes,  bread  and  butter,  and  suet  pudding  would 
give  indigestion  as  all  contain  a  large  amount  of  fat. 
When  used  properly,  sausages  should  appear  in  a  menu, 
which  would  eliminate  the  large  amount  of  the  fat,  as 
mashed  potatoes  and  another  vegetable,  and  a  plain 
dessert. 

If  possible,  the  winter  meal  should  be  commenced  with 
something  hot,  as  a  cup  of  soup,  or  a  little  hot,  spiced 
grape  juice,  because  they  stimulate  the  digestive  juices 
to  greater  activity.  It  must  be  remembered,  however, 
that  it  is  necessary  to  work  in  an  extra  amount  of  fuel 
food  to  overcome  the  wearing  away  of  the  tissues 
through  oxidation,  yet  this  must  be  done  in  such  a  way 
that  nausea  will  not  be  produced.  A  meal  consisting  of 
starch  and  sugar  is  sure  to  bring,  sooner  or  later,  a  sick 
headache  in  its  wake.  -Any  woman  who  is  guilty  of 
serving  the  typical  New  England  supper  of  white  bread, 
an  economical  supply  of  butter,  cake,  cookies,  preserves 
and  tea,  has  only  to  remember  the  frequent  early  morn- 
ing headaches  in  her  family  to  prove  this  statement. 
Both  sugar  and  fats  must  be  introduced  generously  into 
certain  of  the  foods,  the  remainder  of  the  menu  consisting 
of  other  elements.  Cabbage  will  take  up  one-third  of  its 
weight  in  fats,  mashed  potatoes  one-half,  baked  potatoes 


THE  DIET  39 

three-fifths,  and  peas  one-fourth.  When  the  family 
seems  to  lack  energy,  add  extra  olive  oil  or  butter  to  the 
vegetables,  then  turn  back  and  add  some  more!  If  the 
family  seems  tired,  a  quick  energy  food  is  probably 
needed,  but  do  not  urge  more  food,  prepare  cocoa  or 
apple  sauce,  or  some  other  food,  making  it  sweeter  than 
usual,  and  do  not  demur  when  son  "  loads  "  his  cereal 
with  sugar.  He  needs  it  or  he  would  not  do  it.  Let  the 
children  make  taffy  Sunday  afternoons,  they  crave  the 
sugar,  but  keep  careful  watch  lest  the  inborn  tendency 
toward  a  "  sweet  tooth  "  is  not  abnormally  developed. 


CHAPTER  III 
THE  CHILDREN'S  MEALS 

There  is  no  part  of  household  economy  so  generally 
neglected  as  the  children's  meals,  particularly  from  the 
time  when  liquid  diet  is  supplanted  by  solid  food  up  to 
the  beginning  of  school  days.  When  a  seedling  is  first 
set  in  the  earth,  it  is  carefully  shielded  from  the  hot  rays 
of  the  sun  and  watered  regularly  till  the  roots  are  well 
grounded.  Then  the  shield  is  removed  and  gradually 
the  plant  grows,  until,  with  proper  care,  it  reaches  per- 
fection. The  way  of  children  is  the  same ;  when  the 
little  one  is  weaned  and  taught  to  eat  solid  food  —  up 
to  maturity  —  his  diet  needs  supervision ;  but  the  first  six 
years,  great  formative  period  of  health,  are  the  most 
critical  of  all,  for  just  as  the  plant  wilts  in  the  hot  sun 
and  shrivels,  from  lack  of  water,  so  may  the  little  child 
fade  if  the  correct  diet  is  not  provided. 

As  children  grow  irregularly  they  demand,  at  different 
periods,  various  kinds  of  food  for  building  purposes  — 
yet  at  all  times  enough  of  each  element  must  be  provided 
to  insure  the  even  growth  of  all  parts  of  the  body.  Up 
to  the  age  of  eighteen  months,  the  child  has  eaten  little 
except  milk,  bits  of  stale  bread,  some  hard  crackers,  a 
morsel  of  rice,  a  little  beef  juice,  or,  occasionally,  part 
of  an  egg  and  some  orange  juice.  He  has  not  been  par- 
ticularly active  and,  therefore,  has  demanded  little 
starch,  the  milk-sugar,  with  starch  from  bread,  sufficing 
to  meet  his  need,  as  he  is  occupied  with  the  business  of 
growing.  He  now  commences  to  be  more  active,  both 
bodily  and  mentally,  and  needs  more  starch,  or  activity- 
making  food,  to  replace  the  energy  he  so  freely  gives  off. 
This  is  best  supplied  in  the  form  of  cereal  or  bread. 
At  the  same  time  the  pliable  little  bones  are  withstand- 
ing great  weight  in  proportion  to  their  strength  and  need 
foods  that  make  them  firm  and  we/11-formed.  Minerals 
are  the  elements  needed  and,  for  the  convenience  of  the 

40 


THE  CHILDREN'S  MEALS  41 

mother  and  the  digestion  of  the  child,  they  may  be  pro- 
vided under  the  great  head,  cereals.  Not  the  ordinary, 
steam-cooked,  predigested  article  of  commerce,  but  the 
well-prepared,  old-fashioned,  undenatured  cereal.  Mush, 
made  from  the  whole  corn,  heart  and  all,  brown  rice,  not 
polished  with  talc,  oatmeal,  whole  wheat  mush,  made 
from  the  entire  grain  —  these  are  the  cereals  that  make 
blood  and  bone,  brain  and  brawn,  because  they  contain 
all  the  wholesomeness  of  Mother  Earth.  They  include 
more  than  minerals  for  bone  and  starch  for  energy ;  they 
include,  as  analysis  shows,  a  goodly  percentage  of  protein 
for  tissue  building.  But  in  themselves  they  are  not  a 
perfect  food  for  they  lack  fat,  the  great  element  which 
gives  to  the  body  reserve  force,  needed  in  stress  of  dis- 
ease—  that  is  why  they  are  always  combined  with  good 
milk  or  light  cream.  As  they  are  rich  in  starch  they 
should  not  be  served  with  sugar,  since  that  gives  to  the 
body  too  much  carbohydrate. 

Up  to  the  time  the  child  is  six  months  old,  Nature  has 
not  provided  a  specific  digestive  juice  to  act  upon  any 
carbohydrate  other  than  milk-sugar.  Why,  then,  when 
a.  child  begins  to  run  about,  should  his  system  be  sated 
with  sweets  when  it  is  not  necessary  to  growth?  Babies 
of  two  years  and  less  cry  for  candy,  children,  not  old 
enough  to  differentiate  in  flavors,  demand  sugar  on  their 
cereal ;  this  is  abnormal,  the  latent  sugars  in  fruits, 
breads,  healthful  crackers  and  cookies  being  sufficient 
for  the  need.  A  child  will  not  know  what  candy  is  un- 
less taught,  and  if  adoring  relatives  are  instructed  that 
no  sweets  or  other  foods  are  to  be  given,  other  than  those 
in  his  dietary,  he  will  always  be  ready  for  his  meals  and 
can  digest  them  properly. 

As  he  can  eat  but  a  small  amount  at  a  time,  he  should 
be  fed  often,  needing  five  feedings  a  day,  from  eighteen 
months  up  to  two  years  and  a  half,  and  four  from  two 
and  a  half  up  to  three  and  a  half  years.  He  is  then  ready 
to  go  on  a  three-meal  ration,  though,  if  he  shows  a 
tendency  to  be  hungry  between  times,  it  is  far  better 
to  establish  a  regular  period  for  the  luncheon  than  to 
allow  promiscuous  nibbling. 

The  ideal  way  to  feed  children  is  away  from  the  family 
table,  a  suitable  meal  being  provided  for  them.  A  low 


42  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

nursery  table  and  chairs  of  kindergarten  height  are  often 
used  for  this  purpose,  lending  a  note  of  comfort  and 
"  grown-up  "  air  to  meal-time  that  always  has  a  good 
effect.  In  the  average  American  home  where  little  help 
is  kept  this  is  not  usually  practicable  as  it  entails  extra 
work  for  the  mother.  It  may  be  adopted,  however,  at 
supper-time  in  order  to  observe  an  early  bed  hour. 

As  children  always  want  exactly  what  grown-ups  have, 
it  is  difficult  to  feed  them  a  strict  ration,  unless  the  elders 
of  the  family  are  willing  to  sacrifice  so  that  the  children 
will  not  see  rich  and  tempting  foods.  The  mother  must 
also  be  clever  enough  to  know  the  value  of  substitution. 
Every  small  boy  will  tease  for  coffee,  "  just  like  daddy," 
and  it  will  often  be  given  him  before  he  is  three,  the 
mother  never  realizing  that  she  is  fostering  nervousness 
and  a  necessity  for  artificial  stimulation.  The  child 
should  not  be  allowed  to  taste  tea  or  coffee,  being  given, 
instead,  a  cup  "  like  father's,"  full  of  "  cambric  tea,"  or 
brown  bread  coffee  slightly  sweetened,  and,  knowing  no 
difference,  he  will  be  contented  and  happy.  Make  the 
child's  food  look  as  much  like  the  family's  as  possible. 

He  should  not  be  asked  what  he  wants  to  eat,  as  his 
taste  is  undeveloped  and  he  always  wants  an  impossibil- 
ity. He  should  be  taught  to  eat  anything  placed  before 
him,  provided  care  is  taken  not  to  serve  too  much,  or  he 
will  overeat.  From  the  first  he  should  be  trained  to 
chew  his  food  well,  or  he  will  eat  too  fast;  moreover, 
children  should  not  be  left  alone  at  meals,  for  the  same 
reason.  A  grown  person  should  always  be  at  hand  to 
watch  and  to  carry  on  conversation,  thus  interrupting  the 
business  of  eating  with  frequent  rests.  Another  reason 
children  eat  too  fast  is  because  food  is  too  fully  pre- 
pared, nothing  being  left  for  them  to  do  but  eat  it.  When 
a  child  is  old  enough  to  sit  at  the  table,  he  is  old  enough 
to  be  taught  good  manners  and  self-help. 

As  it  is  one  of  the  great  essentials  of  the  diet,  water 
should  be  given  from  birth,  but  as  the  child  is  liable  to 
use  it  to  "  wash  down  "  food,  it  is  not  a  wise  plan  to 
serve  it  at  meals.  Better  give  him  a  drink  the  first  thing 
in  the  morning,  also  in  the  mid-morning  and  afternoon, 
and  an  hour  after  every  meal.  If  he  asks  for  more,  he 
should  be  given  as  much  as  he  craves. 


THE  CHILDREN'S  MEALS  43 

In  giving  children  liquids  at  meal-time,  it  should  be 
borne  in  mind  that  most  of  them  are  foods  and  should 
be  treated  as  such  in  the  dietary.  Milk,  for  instance,  is 
a  protein  food  and,  if  it  accompanies  a  meal,  the  amount 
of  meat  or  eggs  served  should  be  cut  down  proportion- 
ately, as,  otherwise,  the  meal  will  not  balance.  When 
cocoa  is  provided,  it  should  be  considered  both  a  starch 
(from  the  cocoa)  and  a  protein  (from  the  milk)  and 
therefore  treated  as  a  factor  in  the  meal.  It  is  a  heavy 
food  and,  taken  in  excess,  sometimes  clogs  the  kidneys. 
Therefore,  it  is  not  a  wise  breakfast  drink,  being  better 
suited  to  an  occasional  mid-afternoon  lunch  or  supper. 

From  the  first,  Nature  provides  for  the  child  a'  bal- 
anced ration.  Later,  it  behooves  the  mother  to  plan  food 
as  nearly  balanced  as  she  gives  the  older  members  of  the 
family.  Whereas  it  is  true  that  the  child  has  little  taste 
developed,  he  often  rebels  at  monotony.  Often,  the 
necessary,  every-day  foods  may  be  provided  in  a  new 
guise,  soft  gingerbread  cookies,  in  animal  shapes,  bread 
as  a  "  bread  man "  and  "  eggs  in  a  nest,"  instead  of 
boiled,  are  all  good  examples  of  the  way  the  same  food 
may  be  served  in  different  ways.  The  basis  of  every 
meal  for  the  child  should  be  a  protein,  a  starch,  or  two, 
a  fat,  and  minerals.  It  is  best  to  limit  the  portions  ac- 
cording to  the  age  of  the  child.  From  a  year  and  a  half 
to  two  years  and  a  half  the  day's  menus  may  be  planned 
as  follows : 

7  A.  M.  Fresh  milk,  half  a  cup ;  the  yolk  of  a  slightly 
boiled  egg,  one  or  two  thin  slices  of  entire  wheat  bread 
and  butter. 

ii  A.M.  A  scant  half  cup  of  milk  and  a  graham 
cracker. 

2  P.  M.  One  cupful  of  chicken,  beef,  or  mutton  broth, 
one  thin  slice  of  toast  and  a  little  well-boiled  brown  rice 
with  milk. 

5.  P.  M.  One  or  two  thin  slices  of  toast,  moistened  with 
hot  milk. 

This  menu  may  be  changed  from  day  to  day,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  well-cooked  cereal  with  an  additional 
half  cup  of  milk  being  substituted  for  the  egg  in  the 
morning.  The  juice  of  half  an  orange  and  a  thin  slice  of 
bread  and  butter  for  the  eleven  o'clock  lunch,  a  table- 


44  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

spoonful  of  rare,  broiled  scraped  beef,  or  a  small,  well- 
baked  potato  and  a  saucer  of  junket  for  the  broth  at 
noon,  while  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cereal  and  rich  milk 
could  be  used  at  night.  If  the  child  is  inclined  to  be 
constipated,  a  tablespoonful  of  steamed  prunes,  or  figs, 
unsweetened,  may  be  sifted  and  fed  at  one  meal  of  the 
day.  This,  with  a  little  orange  juice,  and  the  persistent 
use  of  entire-wheat-meal  bread  will  usually  overcome 
any  such  tendencies. 

From  two  and  a  half  up  to  three  years  the  diet  may 
be  gradually  increased;  the  succeeding  menus  show  how 
this  change  may  be  affected. 

7  A.  M.  A  small  cup  of  milk,  a  poached  egg  on  buttered 
toast  and  a  small  quantity  of  sifted  cooked  prunes,  figs 
or  apple  sauce. 

ii  A.  M.  A  cupful  of  beef,  chicken,  or  mutton  broth 
with  a  whole  wheat  cracker. 

2  P.  M.  A  small  slice  of  rare  roast  beef  or  mutton  (a 
heaping  tablespoonful  cut  up),  a  small  baked  potato, 
mashed  and  served  with  cream  or  dish  gravy,  a  thin 
slice  of  bread,  a  small  saucer  of  cereal  pudding. 

5:30  P.M.  Whole  wheat  crackers  and  milk  and  soft 
ginger  cookies. 

For  breakfast  an  undenatured  cereal  with  cream  may 
replace  the  egg,  for  variety.  In  case  this  is  done,  the  egg 
may  be  used  at  supper.  The  eleven  o'clock  lunch  should 
not  be  eaten  unless  the  child  is  really  hungry.  At  noon 
a  little  finely  divided  steak,  chop,  chicken,  or  turkey 
may  be  used  instead  of  the  beef,  but  no  game,  pork,  veal, 
or  fried  meats  should  be  allowed. 

From  three  and  a  half  years  up  to  six  the  diet  may 
be  increased;  from  then  on  he  will  assume  the  general 
family  diet.  It  will  be  unnecessary  to  watch  quantities 
closely,  as,  if  normal,  the  child's  appetite  is  a  fair  guide 
and  he  will  not  overeat  if  taught  to  masticate  each  mouth- 
ful thoroughly.  The  following  menus  show  a  variety  of 
correct  combinations. 

Breakfast 

Cereal  with  light  cream;  entire  wheat  bread  and  but- 
ter; a  choice  of  eggs  lightly  boiled,  poached  or  scrambled, 
varied  occasionally  by  a  little  well-boiled  ham  or  baked 


THE  CHILDREN'S  MEALS  45 

bacon  or  a  few  creamed  oysters  or  oyster  stew.  Fresh 
fruit  should  never  be  eaten  at  breakfast,  as  the  acid  is 
liable  to  combine  with  the  starch  of  the  cereal  causing 
gas  to  form.  Hqwever,  it  may  be  used  as  a  mid-morn- 
ing luncheon,  ripe  peaches,  pears  and  cantaloupes,  seeded 
grapes  and  oranges  being  suitable ;  bananas  should  never 
be  used  unless  baked. 

Dinner 

A  half  cup  of  clear  soup,  broth,  or  bouillon,  beef,  tur- 
key, chicken  or  mutton,  roasted  or  broiled,  or  a  small 
quantity  of  broiled  fish;  entire- wheat-meal  bread  and  but- 
ter, a  choice  of  baked  potatoes,  boiled  brown  rice  or  but- 
tered spaghetti,  and  one  of  the  following  vegetables: 
stewed  celery,  stewed  spinach,  fresh  peas,  fresh  string 
beans,  lettuce,  or  any  salad  green  or  fresh  celery.  For 
dessert,  fruit,  gelatine,  junkets,  cereal  puddings,  baked 
custards  or  plain  cream  or  water  ices  are  permissible. 

Supper 

Supper  varies  greatly  with  the  season  of  the  year.  In 
winter  nothing  is  more  welcome  than  a  simple  milk  soup, 
with  buttered  entire-wheat-meal  toast,  fresh  or  stewed 
fruit,  and  a  slice  of  sponge  cake  a  day  old,  or  a  soft  gin- 
ger or  sugar  cookie.  If  eggs  are  not  used  at  breakfast 
time,  they  may  appear  at  supper,  while  a  dish  of  wheat 
cereal  and  a  glass  of  milk  or  cocoa  and  a  baked  apple 
may  often  be  sufficient.  In  the  summertime  great  care 
should  be  taken  not  to  feed  the  child  heating  food  at 
night,  therefore,  the  best  supper  is  really  fresh  milk  with 
stale  bread  or  crackers  and  a  soft  cookie.  In  case  the 
child  seems  to  need  more  nourishment,  a  well-beaten  egg 
may  be  added  to  the  milk  and  served  as  an  egg-nog,  while 
cereal  (preferably  undenatured),  cooked  with  dates  or 
figs,  may  be  moulded  and  served  cold  with  a  little  sugar 
or  light  cream.  It  should  be  remembered  that  when 
cereals  are  served  at  supper  the  same  rule  applies  as  at 
breakfast — fresh  fruit  should  not  accompany  them. 
The  usual  stewed  fruit  may  be  varied  in  many  ways, 
fruit  whips,  boiled  apples,  lightly  spiced  prunes,  dates 
flavored  with  orange  juice  and  steamed  figs,  offering  a 


46  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

change.  Often,  a  supper  otherwise  deficient  in  protein 
may  be  balanced  by  the  addition  of  a  baked  custard  con- 
taining eggs.  It  must  be  kept  in  mind  that  none  of  these 
meals  will  balance  unless  whole-wheat-meal  bread  and 
undenatured  cereals  are  always  used  to  supply  the  neces- 
sary mineral.  They  also  accomplish  another  great  mis- 
sion, that  of  regulating  the  bowels  through  bulk. 

In  case  the  child  refuses  to  eat,  do  not  force  him 
against  his  will,  but  examine  his  mouth,  which  may  be 
sore  from  cutting  teeth,  and  make  sure  that  his  digestive 
organs  and  bowels  are  active.  Again,  the  food  may  not 
be  well-cooked  and  flavored,  as  the  majority  of  cooks 
think  that  anything  will  do  for  a  child.  If  he  is  simply 
irritable  and  cross,  take  the  food  away  and  do  not  offer 
it  again  until  the  next  meal. 

SCHOOL  LUNCHEONS 

Mothers  are  beginning  to  realize  that  the  school  lunch- 
eon must  consist  of  something  more  substantial  than 
white  bread  sandwiches  made  with  jam,  jellies,  or  fruit 
butters,  a  slice  of  cake  and  a  piece  of  pie.  These  are  all 
foods  that,  rightly  used,  may  have  a  definite  place  in  the 
diet,  but  they  must  appear  in  suitable  combination  or  else 
the  child  will  practically  be  "  starving  in  the  midst  of 
plenty,"  i.e.  be  suffering  the  bad  effects  of  malnutrition, 
because  of  a  diet  over-filled  with  starch  and  sweet,  and 
lacking  in  the  elements  that  give  stamina  and  promote 
muscular  development. 

There  is  a  widespread  notion  that  the  balancing  of  the 
daily  ration  can  be  stretched  over  the  three  meals  with- 
out regard  to  actual  combinations  in  each  menu:  that  a 
lunch  consisting  of  a  too  large  proportion  of  starch  and 
scarcity  of  other  foods  can  be  reckoned  in  at  the  close 
of  the  day  as  having  furnished  a  generous  share  of  the 
starch  needed  for  the  twenty-four  hours,  the  other  meals 
being  made  deficient  in  starch  to  keep  up  the  general 
balance.  Theoretically,  this  may  be  true,  but  practically, 
it  does  not  work  out  well,  because  the  body  is  being  con- 
stantly torn  down,  or  laid  waste,  and  needs  the  actual 
replenishment  of  all  food  elements  three  times  a  day. 
This  does  not  necessarily  mean  that  large  quantities  of 
food  must  be  consumed  at  each  meal,  but  rather  that 


THE  CHILDREN'S  MEALS  47 

smaller  portions  of  each  element  needed  for  replenish- 
ment should  be  provided.  As  a  general  rule  this  is  not 
true  with  the  school  luncheon,  whether  carried  by  the 
child  or  furnished  by  the  school  at  small  cost.  When  the 
luncheon  is  carried,  this  condition  is  entirely  under  the 
mother's  control,  but,  when  it  is  provided  at  the  school, 
it  should  be  controlled  by  someone  who*  knows  dietetic 
values  and  who  can  provide  a  well-balanced  meal. 

The  receptacle  in  which  the  luncheon  is  carried  has  a 
great  influence  on  the  food.  A  papier  mache,  or  leather, 
box,  for  instance,  absorbs  odors  and  at  the  same  time  im- 
parts this  accumulation  to  fresh  foods  that  are  packed 
in  it.  The  most  satisfactory  utensil  is  a  tin  or  granite- 
ware  pail,  or  box,  that  can  be  scalded  and  sunned  each 
day;  or  a  wicker  basket  that  can  be  washed  and  aired. 
Most  school  luncheons,  in  comparison  to  regular  meals, 
contain  very  little  nourishment,  and  mothers  frequently 
say  that  the  children  will  not  eat  what  is  provided,  lay- 
ing the  responsibility  to  small  appetites.  In  only  too 
many  cases  the  decrq&sing  desire  to  eat  is  due  to  dis- 
agreeable food  flavors. 

It  is  impossible  to  lay  down  hard  and  fast  menus  for 
all  children,  as  they  differ  in  their  likes  and  dislikes. 
Girls,  for  instance,  enjoy  carrying  little  jars  of  creamed 
meat,  or  stewed  fruit,  which  necessitates  a  spoon  and 
they  really  anticipate  the  noon  hour  with  its  possibilities 
for  "  make  believe  "  housekeeping.  On  the  other  hand, 
the  average  boy  says  he  doesn't  "  want  any  frills  "  and 
begs  for  a  compact  lunch  that  can  be  eaten  quickly.  Un- 
fortunately this  is  one  of  the  worst  features  of  the 
school  luncheon,  for  too  rapid  eating  causes  indigestion 
and  the  consequent  mental  heaviness  which  is  the  bane 
of  school  teachers.  This  can  be  overcome  in  a  measure 
by  the  mother  who  need  not  prepare  the  luncheon  too 
completely  —  hard-cooked  eggs,  for  instance,  should  be 
left  in  the  shell,  crusts  left  on  the  bread  and  whole  fruits 
provided,  so  that  it  will  take  the  boy  a  few  minutes  to 
get  his  food  ready  to  eat.  For  this  same  reason,  nuts  in 
the  shell  should  be  provided;  they  cannot  be  eaten  too 
quickly  and  their  rich  protein  is  worth  working  to  get. 

The  general  directions  for  planning  the  school  lunch- 
eon should  be  the  same  as  those  for  any  other  meal. 


48  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

There  should  be  a  meat  or  its  equivalent,  enough  starch 
to  correspond  to  the  bread  and  potatoes  eaten  at  most 
meals,  something  bulky  to  fill  up  the  chinks,  one  sweet 
and  a  refreshing  food,  as  fruit.  The  obvious  food  for 
the  main  part  of  the  lunch  is  the  sandwich,  which  may  be 
varied  by  different  types  of  bread  as  well  as  fillings. 
Whole-wheat-meal  or  bran  bread,  made  with  yeast,  are 
excellent  types  of  bulky  foods,  which,  at  the  same  time, 
will  supply  the  child  not  only  with  ballast  and  minerals 
and  other  food  principles,  but  with  the  vitamins,  or  life- 
giving  principles  found  in  the  husks  of  wheat,  as  well  as 
in  other  foods.  These  breads  are  richer  in  general 
nutriment  than  white  bread,  so,  if  a  sweet  filling  is  to  be 
used,  it  will  balance  to  best  advantage  in  this  com- 
bination. 

The  following  fillings  are  particularly  good  for  these 
breads :  Cottage  cheese  and  chopped  walnut  meats ; 
peanut  butter  and  well-drained,  stewed  prunes;  thick 
honey  and  sliced  bananas,  sprinkled  with  lemon  juice ; 
cottage  cheese  and  sliced  tomatqes;  dates  and  cream 
cheese ;  cold  welsh  rarebit  made  with  milk ;  cream  cheese 
and  marmalade;  ground  dried  beef,  cooked  in  a  thick 
tomato  sauce  and  a  little  grated  cheese.  In  all  of  these 
cases  the  butter  should  be  beaten  to  a  cream  and  spread 
out  to  the  edge  of  the  slice.  Jf  cake  or  other  sweets  are 
provided,  sweet  sandwiches  should  be  used  sparingly. 
In  all  cases  the  filling  should  be  moist,  but  not  wet  enough 
to  make  the  bread  soggy;  the  slices  should  be  cut  not 
more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  as,  otherwise,  the 
children  will  get  too  much  bread  for  the  amount  of 
filling. 

White  bread  sandwiches  should  usually  have  a  sub- 
stantial filling  of  meat,  cheese,  nuts,  or  eggs ;  fish  should 
not  be  used,  as  it  imparts  odors  and  is  likely  to  spoil 
through  conflicting  temperatures.  If  the  bread  is  com- 
paratively fresh  and  moist,  thinly-sliced  tender  meat  can 
be  used  if  the  bread  is  spread  with  enough  butter  to 
make  the  slices  cling  together.  However,  in  many  cases, 
it  is  a  better  plan  to  mince  the  meat  and  cook  it  in  a 
thick  white  sauce,  as  this  makes  a  moist  filling  and  at  the 
same  time  utilizes  meat  that  cannot  be  sliced.  Whenever 
possible,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  provide  one  or  two  vegetable 


THE  CHILDREN'S  MEALS  49 

sandwiches.  These  may  be  made  of  well-dried  lettuce 
leaves,  chopped  celery,  sliced  radishes,  spinach  mixed 
with  a  little  cream  cheese,  or  even  well-drained  string 
beans  dressed  with  a  little  olive  oil  and  lemon  juice. 
Fruits,  like  sliced  and  sugared  peaches,  also  can  be  used 
as  fillings.  For  meats  the  variety  is  unlimited;  thin 
cakes  of  broiled  hamburg  steak;  crisp,  but  not  dry, 
bacon,  and  broiled  ham,  all  helping  out  the  usual  cold 
meats.  Whatever  the  sandwich,  it  should  always  be 
wrapped  in  paraffine  paper  to  prevent  dryness.  Some- 
times cold  corn  bread  or  muffins  can  be  used  to  good  ad- 
vantage, and  there  are  always  the  quick  loaf  breads,  as 
Boston  brown  bread,  nut  bread,  raisin  loaf  and  whole- 
wheat date  bread  that  can  fill  in  an  emergency. 

Whenever  possible,  a  tid-bit,  as  radishes,  celery,  or 
ripe  olives,  should  be  furnished.  Dessert  may  consist 
of  some  simple  cake,  preferably  of  the  sponge  variety  or 
wholesome  cookies,  as  the  old-fashioned  gingersnaps,  or 
sugar  cookies,  and  the  more  modern  oatmeal  cakes. 
Stewed  fruit  may  be  furnished,  or  a  custard,  or  a  single 
portion  of  cereal  pudding,  baked  in  a  jelly  glass,  will 
often  furnish  a  welcome  change.  '  A  delicate  child  that 
needs  special  nourishment  should  be  provided  with  a  hot- 
cold  bottle  for  milk,  soup,  or  cocoa. 

The  following  menus  are  well  adapted  to  the  average 
child. 

1 

Whole  Wheat  Bread  and  Cream  Cheese  Sandwiches 
White  Bread  and  Tomato  Sandwiches 

Hard-Cooked  Eggs         Radishes 
,  Sponge  Cup  Cakes  Peaches 


Creamed  Chicken  Sandwiches 
Boston  Brown  Bread  and  Nut  Butter  Sandwiches 

Celery  Ripe  Olives 

Chocolate  Gingerbread  Grapes 

3 

Corn   Bread   with   Butter  Bacon    Sandwiches 

Whole  Tomatoes  with  Salt 
Baked  Custard  Pears 


CHAPTER  IV 
THE  PROBLEM  OF  THE  DINNER  PAIL 

Two  triangles  of  pie,  a  piece  of  cake,  some  white  bread 
sandwiches,  spread  sparingly  with  butter,  usually  put 
together  with  jelly  or  jam,  a  dill  pickle,  and,  on  rare 
occasions,  a  bit  of  cheese  —  this  is  the  typical  noon  lunch 
carried  by  the  average  workman.  If  eaten  constantly, 
this  diet,  which  consists  almost  entirely  of  starch  and 
sweets,  is  liable  to  cause  ill  health  and  lead  {6  disease. 

Few  realize  that  dinner-pail  meals  need  greater  thought 
than  those  served  at  the  table.  Only  too  often  they  lack 
variety,  are  unattractively  packed,  and  are  made  up  of 
any  left-overs  that  chance  to  be  at  hand  in  the  early 
morning  hours. 

The  choice  of  a  luncheon  receptacle  is  of  great  im- 
portance ;  leather  is  not  to  be  considered,  because  foods 
absorb  the  odor ;  the  ordinary  collapsible  tin  box  does 
not  hold  enough  for  a  full  meal;  papier  mdche  soon 
grows  musty,  while  the  usual  tin  pail  is  apt  to  rust.  The 
most  attractive  utensil  is  an  enamel  dinner  pail,  fitted 
with  trays.  This  may  be  thoroughly  scalded  and  aired 
each  day,  and,  with  care,  will  last  indefinitely.  The  next 
best  solution  is  a  pasteboard  box,  fresh  daily.  These  may 
be  obtained  in  quantity  from  any  wholesale  stationer, 
and  occupy  little  storage  space.  Unattractive  packing 
often  spoils  an  otherwise  good  meal.  Waxed  or  paraf- 
fine  paper  is  indispensable,  as,  by  its  use,  foods  are  not 
only  kept  moist,  but  are  prevented  from  taking  on  the 
mixture  of  flavors  that  permeate  a  lunch  box  when  the 
foods  are  not  carefully  wrapped.  This  may  be  pur- 
chased, inexpensively,  by  the  pound,  from  the  stationer. 
Each  sandwich  should  be  wrapped  in  the  paper,  sepa- 
rately, and  secured  by  a  rubber  band.  This  makes  pos- 
sible the  introduction  of  piquant  flavors,  as  onions,  horse- 
radish, etc.  By  this  means  pie,  sliced  cold  meats,  cheese 
and  cake  may  be  kept  moist ;  even  fruit  should  be  wrapped 
to  keep  the  odor  from  escaping. 

50 


THE  DINNER  PAIL  51 

A  large  jelly  tumbler,  or  small  fruit- jar,  may  be  used 
for  moist  foods,  like  baked  beans,  creamed  vegetables, 
meats  and  salads,  and  for  cooked  cereals,  with  milk,  pre- 
served fruit,  baked  custards  or  puddings.  For  such 
foods  the  spoon  should  not  be  forgotten,  while  a  small 
linen  napkin  is  always  a  much  appreciated  luxury. 

While  the  noon  lunch  should  be  neatly  packed,  with 
due  regard  to  the  order  in  which  the  foods  will  be  eaten 

—  for  the  working  man  is  only  too  seldom  supplied  with 
a  table  on  which  to  "  spread  "  his  meal  —  it  should  not 
be  too  "  dainty."     No  hungry  man  will  be  satisfied  with 
a  few  paper-thin  sandwiches,  a  piece  of  delicate  cake,  and 
small  portions  of  fruit  or  pudding.     He  usually  reports 
for  work  by  seven  in  the  morning,  and  the  long  stretch 
of  five  hours  till  noon,  coupled  with  actual  physical  labor, 
creates  a  ravenous  appetite  that  demands  quantity.     If 
care  is  taken  to  balance  the  meal,  leaving,  however,  more 
starch  and  sugar  than  is  usual  to  re-supply  this  rapidly 
dissipated   energy,  he  will   eat  less   and  keep   in  better 
trim  than  when  it  is  disregarded.     As  a  general  rule  men 
feel  that  they  have  "  nothing  to  eat,"*3  unless  meat  is  pro- 
vided ;  so,  when  meat  substitutes  are  given,  they  must  be 
planned  so  that  they  "  look  "  like  a  large  amount  in  order 
to  appease  the  hungry  eyes.     At  the  same  time,  it  should 
be  borne  in  mind  that  many  meat  substitutes  are  not  so 
concentrated  as  meat,  thus  making  it  necessary  to  pre- 
pare a  larger  amount  to  provide  the  same   degree  of 
nourishment. 

The  season  of  the  year  should  always  be  considered 

—  a  luncheon  of  heavy  foods,  suitable  to  cold  weather, 
being   unappetizing   during   the   warm   summer   months. 
A  man  at  hard  labor  always  needs  substantial  foods,  but 
fruit,  vegetable  and  meat  substitutes  may  be  more  gen- 
erally introduced  with  the  coming  of  spring  —  they  will 
largely  overcome  the  usual  tendencies  toward  "  spring 
fever." 

An  earnest  housewife  said,  "  My  husband  carries  a  din- 
ner-pail and  is  dyspeptic ;  he  has  no  means  of  heating  the 
food.  What  can  I  do  to  make  it  more  digestible  ?  "  The 
answer  was,  "  Provide  a  hot  soup  by  means  of  a  hot- 
cold  bottle."  When,  the  body  is  weary  the  stomach 
needs  "  toning  up."  The  best  way  to  do  this  is  by  means 


52  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

of  a  hot  soup  or  drink,  as  it  stimulates  the  stomach  to  im- 
mediate action.  As  "  hot-cold  "  bottles  may  be  purchased 
from  fifty  cents  up,  a  little  economy  will  place  them 
within  reach  of  almost  anyone.  Occasionally,  factories 
provide  "  hot  closets,"  so  that  coffee  or  food  may  be  left 
there  to  heat.  This  makes  possible  a  greater  variety  of 
foods. 

There  is  nothing  so  jading  to  the  appetite  as  monotony. 
A  constant  diet  of  white  bread,  some  kind  of  pie  and 
cake,  always  made  by  the  same  recipe,  soon  gets  a  man 
to  the  point  where  nothing  "  tastes  good."  The  lunch 
box  offers  just  as  great  opportunity  for  thought  and  skill 
as  the  finest  company  meal —  if  imagination  is  called  into 
play.  Many  foods  ordinarily  served  hot  are  acceptable 
when  cold;  sandwich  fillings  may  be  prepared  in  many 
odd  combinations  and  desserts  replace  the  too  frequent 
pie.  A  surprise  now  and  then,  as  salted  or  cracked  nuts, 
or  a  few  pieces  of  candy,  mean  as  much  to  a  grown-up 
as  to  a  child. 

The  following  menus  contain  suggestions  for  the  differ- 
ent seasons : 

For  Fall  and  Winter 

Sliced  Meat  Loaf  Potato  Chips 

Bread  and  Jelly  Sandwiches  Plain  Bread  and  Butter 

Baked  Apple  with  Top  Milk  Gingerbread 

Coffee  or  Cocoa 


Stewed  Lima  Beans  in  Tomato  Sauce 

Peanut  Butter  Sandwiches  Bacon  Sandwiches 

Cranberry  Pie        Coffee 


Welsh  Rarebit  Sandwiches       Creamed  Corned  Beef  Sandwiches 

Potato  Salad 

Date  Tapioca  with  Top  Milk  Chocolate  Cake 

Coffee  or  Tea 


Split  Pea  Soup   (Hot-Cold  Bottle) 

Minced  Ham  Sandwiches        Onion  Sandwiches 

Indian  Pudding  with  Top  Milk  A  Few  Grapes 

Coffee  or  Tea 


For  Spring  and  Summer 

Brown  Rice  with  Sugar  and  Top  Milk 
Peanut  Butter  and  Lettuce  Sandwiches 

Scrambled  Egg  Sandwiches 
N    Stewed  Rhubarb  Jelly  Roll 


THE  DINNER  PAIL  53 

Swiss  Cheese  and  Rye  Bread  Sandwiches     Nut  and  Potato  Salad 
Strawberries  and  Sugar        Layer  Cake 
Lemonade 


Nut  Bread  and  Creamed  Bean  Sandwiches 

Mutton  Salad  Sandwiches 

Farina  Pudding  with  Crushed  Blackberries  Spice  Cake 

Coffee 


'  Club  Sandwich  Succotash 

Buttered  Rolls 
New  Apple  Pie  Cocoa 

The  best  gauge  of  a  hungry  man's  appetite  is  what 
is  or  is  not  left  over  in  the  pail.  There  can  be  no  definite 
rule  given  as  to  quantity  —  the  amount  needed  by  various 
people  differing  with  the  kind  of  work  and  individuality. 
If  the  ration  is  approximately  balanced,  amounts  may 
soon  be  judged. 

Occasionally  a  few  slices  of  cold  meat  may  be  in- 
troduced, as  in  the  first  menu.  As  these  are  usually  eaten 
with  the  fingers,  this  should  not  be  done  unless  there  is  a 
lavatory  at  hand.  When  pie  is  used,  it  belongs  in  a 
menu  that  seems  deficient  in  heavy  food,  as  in  the  second 
and  last  menus.  When  cereals  are  used,  care  should  al- 
ways be  taken  to  secure  the  whole  grains,  such  as  brown 
rice,  cracked  wheat,  and  oatmeal,  as  they  are  not  only 
more  bulky,  but  far  more  nourishing  than  the  denatured 
kinds.  Fruits,  either  fresh  or  dried,  should  be  fully  in- 
troduced, as  they  are  invaluable  tonics  and  appetizers,  and 
every  menu  should  contain  some  one  food  of  marked 
flavor  to  give  it  point. 

To  put  foods  together  that  harmonize,  that  are,  at  the 
same  time,  inexpensive  and  nourishing  is  worthy  the  high- 
est effort,  for  what  a  man  is  and  does  depends  largely 
upon  what  he  eats. 


CHAPTER  V 
THE  FINE  ART  OF  COMBINING  FOODS 

The  question  of  the  proper  thing  to  serve  at  each  meal 
is  one  that  confronts  every  housewife,  and  often  proves 
very  perplexing.  Many  women  seem  to  feel  that,  when 
the  main  dish  has  been  selected,  the  other  foods  will  take 
care  of  themselves.  But  no  meal  can  be  piled  together 
helter-skelter,  for  in  planning  the  menu  some  one  dish 
must  be  selected  around  which  the  rest  of  the  meal  re- 
volves. The  main  dish,  properly  speaking,  is  repre- 
sented by  the  most  substantial  course,  but  the  meal  can 
often  be  made  to  fit  around  a  special  dessert  or  salad.  A 
correspondent,  for  instance,  asked  for  a  company  dinner 
menu  in  which  the  dessert  might  be  grape  juice  jelly,  with 
whipped  cream.  Taking  into  consideration  the  three  fac- 
tors that  must  be  observed  in  planning  every  meal,  no 
matter  how  simple, —  the  dietetic  value  of  the  food,  pleas- 
ing the  palate,  and  satisfying  the  eyes  —  I  sent  her  the 
following  menu : 

Oyster  Bouillon  Wafers 

Chicken  Maryland 
Timbales  of  Green  Peppers  with  Rice  Browned  Cauliflower 

Celery  Hearts 

Grapejuice  Jelly,  with  Whipped  Cream        Orange  Cakes 
Coffee 

In  this  menu  the  jelly  acts  as  the  point  of  interest;  that 
is  the  flavors  of  the  meal  reach  in  it  a  climax.  There  is 
nothing  so  unsatisfying  as  to  finish  a  well-cooked  meal 
which  is  so  badly  planned  that  it  leaves  an  impression  of 
monotony.  Many  a  case  of  overeating  and  consequent 
indigestion  may  be  traced  to  the  combination  of  too  many 
foods  on  the  same  taste-level.  The  palate,  which  is  very 
sensitive  in  its  search  for  something  distinctive  in  flavor, 
is  so  continually  disappointed  that  one  may  unconsciously 
keep  on  eating  long  after  the  appetite  is  satisfied.  The 

54 


THE  FINE  ART  OF  COMBINING  FOODS      55 

term  taste-level  applies  to  foods  which  are  made  of  sim- 
ilar ingredients. 

I  have  often  heard  an  old  Southern  Mammy  say  that 
every  white  vegetable  should  have  a  green  or  dark  one 
to  balance  it  at  a  meal.  This  rule  is  not  infallible,  but, 
generally  speaking,  the  white  vegetables,  as  hominy,  rice, 
potatoes  and  macaroni,  are  of  a  starchy  nature,  and,  to 
carry  out  the  balance  of  the  meal,  a  green  vegetable  rich 
in  minerals  should  be  provided.  In  case  one  of  the  more 
succulent  white  vegetables  is  chosen,  like  cauliflower, 
which  will  furnish  ample  mineral,  the  meal  will  not  taste 
well  unless  either  the  starchy  or  the  mineral  vegetable  is 
darkened  in  some  way,  as  browned  cauliflower  or  fried 
potatoes.  In  case  a  third  vegetable  is  to  be  added,  it 
should  be  of  contrasting  color,  that  is  potatoes,  carrots 
and  spinach  may  be  used  together,  or  rice,  tomatoes  and 
string  beans,  but  fried  potatoes,  white  turnips,  and  cauli- 
flower, would  not  be  a  good  combination. 

A  white  fish  or  meat  should  be  served  with  a  sauce  of 
contrasting  flavor  and  color.  In  preparing  the  gravy  for 
roast  meats,  for  example,  it  should  be  made  of  a  rich 
dark  brown  color;  otherwise  it  will  look  insipid.  Light 
meats,  such  as  pork  tenderloin,  veal  cutlets  and  the  like, 
are  much  better  when  combined  with  tomato,  or  some 
dark  sauce,  and,  if  chicken  is  to  be  creamed,  the  addition 
of  an  egg  yolk  or  two,  or  some  minced  parsley  or  green 
pepper,  to  give  color  value  as  well  as  additional  flavor,  is 
an  excellent  plan.  Very  dark  foods,  such  as  spinach, 
timbales,  baked  tomatoes  and  so  on,  should  be  combined 
with  light  colored  sauces  and  vice  versa.  This  also  ap- 
plies to  puddings. 

The  greatest  help  in  planning  combinations  is  to 
schedule  meals  ahead  for  at  least  a  day,  preferably  for 
the  week,  leaving  one  meal  blank  to  take  care  of  the  left- 
overs. Lack  of  variety  shows  very  plainly  when  put 
down  in  black  and  white. 

Every  meal  must  be  planned  by  a  pattern  or  skeleton 
menu,  whether  just  for  the  family  or  for  company.  If 
these  patterns  are  kept  in  plain  view  whenever  the  menus 
are  made,  there  will  be  little  danger  of  providing  unbal- 
anced rations.  I  find  it  an  excellent  plan  to  build  up  the 
meals  by  aid  of  skeleton  menus,  such  as  the  following: 


56  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Breakfast 

1.  Fruit,  raw  or  cooked. 

2.  Cereal  with  top  milk,  only  with  cooked  fruits,  or 
those  partially  non-acid,  as  pears,  bananas  or  melons. 

3.  Eggs,  left-over  meat,  fish,  or,  occasionally,  a  vege- 
table, and  milk  or  egg  combinations ;  potatoes  only  when 
cereal  is  omitted ;  any  bread,  with  butter,  cereal  beverage 
or  coffee. 

Cocoa  should  not  be  served  unless  the  supply  of  but- 
ter is  diminished,  and  the  main  course  is  very  light.  If 
desired,  the  cereal  may  take  a  different  form,  as  fried 
mush  or  hominy  omelet.  In  this  case  any  kind  of  raw 
fruit  may  be  served. 

Luncheon  or  Supper 

1.  Any  fruit  cocktail,  canape,  or  cream  or  stock  soup, 
with  crackers.     (This  course  may  be  omitted.) 

2.  Any  light  meat,  egg,  nut  or  cheese  dish,  as  scallops, 
timbales,   croquettes,   ramekins,   or  substantial  vegetable 
or  cereal  dishes,  combined  with  proteins;  any  kind  of 
bread. 

3.  A  light  salad  of  fruit  or  vegetables,  with  boiled, 
French,  or  mayonnaise  dressing. 

4.  A  light  dessert,  as   fresh  or  cooked   fruit,  whips, 
gelatines,  or  corn  starch  puddings,  accompanied,  if  de- 
sired,  with   cookies,   cake,   hot  gingerbread,   or   waffles; 
tea. 

If  a  heavy  soup,  as  a  bisque,  puree,  or  egg- thickened 
soup,  is  served,  the  meat  course  may  be  omitted.  If 
potatoes,  rice  or  spaghetti  are  provided,  in  addition  to 
the  main  course,  the  dessert  should  be  light.  For  an 
elaborate  meal  a  light  vegetable,  such  as  green  peas,  may 
accompany  the  main  course.  If  desired,  a  substantial 
meat,  fish  or  vegetable  and  nut  salad  may  be  substituted 
for  the  second  and  third  courses.  A  fruit  salad  may  be 
the  dessert.  Neither  milk  nor  cocoa  should  be  served 
unless  needed  to  supply  a  scanty  protein  allowance.  A 
heavy  dessert  is  allowable  only  when  needed  to  give  bal- 
ance to  the  meal.  If  deficient  in  protein,  an  egg  custard 
may  be  used ;  if  lacking  in  fat,  an  almond  pudding,  but- 
terscotch pie  and  so  fort!]. 


THE  FINE  ART  OF  COMBINING  FOODS      57 

Dinner 

1.  Any  fruit  or  fish  cocktail,  canape,  or  stock  soup  and 
crackers.     (This  course  may  be  omitted.) 

2.  Any  substantial  meat  or  fish,  baked,  boiled,  braized, 
fried,  broiled,  stewed,  or  en  casserole.     A  choice  of  white 
or  sweet  potatoes,  rice,  hominy,  or  macaroni.     One  or 
two  other  vegetables. 

3.  Any  vegetable  salad  with  French  dressing,  or  one 
of  its  derivatives,  or  with  very  fat  meats,  an  orange  or 
grapefruit  salad,  with  French  dressing ;  a  green  vegetable, 
as  celery  or  radishes,  may  be  substituted.     If  the  salad 
is  of  fruit,  it  may  be  supplemented  with  crackers  or  sweet 
biscuits,  and  act  as  dessert. 

4.  A  light  dessert,  as  junket,  gelatine,  whip,  fruit  cup, 
baked  oranges,  baked  stuffed  apples  with  heavy  meats. 
Heavier  desserts,  as  pies,  puddings,  tapioca  cream  and  so 
forth,   with   light  meats.     Only  tart  desserts   with  fish. 
Coffee. 

If  fish  is  served  as  a  separate  course,  it  should  precede 
the  meat,  and  be  in  the  form  of  timbales,  croquettes, 
ramekins,  or  small  portions  of  broiled  or  boiled  fish,  with 
or  without  sauce. 

As  appetite  craves  change,  the  essential  in  planning  ap- 
pealing meals  is  to  combine  a  variety  of  foods  so  that 
they  harmonize.  Nature  is  a  trustworthy  teacher. 
Years  ago  she  taught  the  good  old  combination  of  pork 
and  beans,  bread  and  cheese,  pork  and  apple  sauce,  be- 
cause they  tasted  well  together  —  her  pupils  not  realiz- 
ing that  these  foods  supplemented  each  the  other. 

To  prepare  foods  that  "  taste  good,"  look  well  and  are 
digestible  it  is  a  good  plan  to  follow  the  infallible  rule  of 
"  enough  but  not  too  much,"  as  well  as  to  consider  the 
esthetic  beauty  and  appearance  of  the  combination.  Con- 
servatism too  often  stands  in  the  way  of  the  average 
housewife,  many  serving  the  same  dishes  year  in  and 
year  out,  that  their  mothers  served  before  them.  How- 
ever, the  women  are  not  entirely  at  fault,  the  habits  of  the 
men  contributing  a  large  share  towards  the  existing  nar- 
rowness. The  New  Englander  is  starved  without  his 
breakfast  doughnuts ;  the  Southerner  without  his  corn 
pone,  and  the  Westerner  without  his  wheat  cakes,  regard- 


58  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

less  of  the  fact  that  the  meal  may  contain  dishes  of  equal 
stability  and  nutrition. 

Another  reason  why  women  get  into  "  ruts  "  is  because 
too  many  men  seem  to  like  monotony  —  being  satisfied 
with  frequent  repetitions  of  a  few  good  dishes,  often  ridi- 
culing any  attempt  toward  growth  and  betterment  in  the 
family  menu.  The  man  who  growls  over  the  "  high  cost 
of  living  "  is  too  often  the  one  who  demands  the  same 
old  foods ! 

Breakfast  is  usually  the  most  neglected  of  the  three 
meals,  actual  scantiness  of  food,  combinations  which  are 
indigestible,  and  hasty  service  leading  to  frequent  mid- 
morning  indigestion  and  consequent  "  grouchiness." 
One  of  the  greatest  mistakes  perpetrated  in  most  house- 
holds is  the  serving  of  an  acid  fruit  with  a  cereal  or 
cream.  Some  cast-iron  stomachs  can  stand  this  combina- 
tion, but  often  it  brings  about  fermentation  with  accom- 
panying gas.  When  a  cereal  is  to  be  served,  the  fruit 
should  be  bland,  as  bananas,  peaches,  apples,  dates,  stewed 
figs  or  prunes,  not  only  because  it  is  the  correct  thing 
to  do,  but  because  it  "  tastes  good."  In  this  case  the 
heavier  part  of  the  meal  should  be  scheduled  accordingly 
and  contain  foods  of  marked  flavor.  If  scrambled  eggs, 
for  instance,  follow  a  bland  fruit,  and  cereal  with  cream, 
the  effect  is  flat;  while,  on  the  other  hand,  if  a  little 
dried  beef  or  bacon  is  cooked  with  the  eggs,  or  if  they 
are  made  into  an  omelet  with  tomato  sauce,  the  whole 
meal  gains  point.  However,  if  the  meal  starts  with  an 
acid,  like  oranges,  pineapple  or  grapefruit,  the  main  por- 
tion may  be  heavier  and  somewhat  bland.  Plain  scram- 
bled eggs  should  be  suitable  in  this  case  and  might  be 
accompanied  by  fried  potatoes  (to  give  substantiality) 
and  corn  muffins,  as  no  cereal  is  served.  Fish  never 
should  be  served  for  breakfast,  unless  preceded  by  an 
acid  fruit,  or  accompanied  by  an  acid  sauce.  Potatoes 
or  hominy  should  never  be  served  when  a  cereal  appears, 
as  all  are  starches,  and,  therefore,  too  similar  in  texture 
and  taste.  When  steak  and  potatoes  are  served,  for  in- 
stance, the  cereal  should  be  omitted.  When  cereal  is 
used,  plain  bread  and  butter,  biscuits  or  rolls  should  be 
prepared,  while  cereal  muffins  may  be  used  when  the 
cereal  is  omitted.  In  other  words  care  should  be  taken 


THE  FINE  ART  OF  COMBINING  FOODS      59 

not  to  repeat  similar  flavors.  When  fried  foods,  like  frit- 
ters or  griddle  cakes,  are  used,  an  acid  fruit  should  ap- 
pear, not  only  because  it  tastes  better,  but  because  the 
acid  assists  in  breaking  up  the  fat  in  which  they  are 
usually  cooked. 

For  example,  examine  the  following  winter  breakfast 
menu : 

Sliced  Oranges 

Ham  and  Eggs  Creamed  Potatoes 

Hot  Biscuits  and  Maple  Syrup 

Coffee 

The  orange  acid  cuts  the  ham  fat,  the  potatoes  are 
moist  and  act  as  a  sauce  to  the  ham,  while  the  syrup  adds 
a  sweet  note  without  which  the  meal  would  be  incom- 
plete. 

As  the  weather  grows  warmer,  heavy  dishes  should  be 
partially  replaced  by  foods  Nature  has  provided.  Let- 
tuce, cress,  asparagus  and  rhubarb,  as  well  as  the  early 
fruits,  have  a  definite  place  in  the  spring  breakfast. 

To  illustrate : 

Stewed  Rhubarb 

Broiled  Mackerel  Baked  Potatoes 

Corn  Muffins  Coffee 


Brown  Rice  Brown  Sugar  Syrup 

Creamed  Asparagus  on  Toast 
Strawberry  Shortcake  Coffee 

In  the  first  menu  the  acid  rhubarb  cuts  the  fat  mackerel 
and  gives  the  sour  flavor  that  fish  demands ;  corn  muffins 
are  used  instead  of  cereal,  while  baked  potatoes  supply 
the  needed  bulk  to  satisfy  the  appetite.  In  the  second 
menu  the  brown  rice,  which  is  not  denatured  and,  there- 
fore, substantial,  is  used  instead  of  the  meat,  as  the  as- 
paragus on  toast  is  served  in  a  milk  sauce,  and  syrup  is 
served  with  the  cereal  instead  of  milk  in  order  to  avoid 
repetition  of  flavor ;  while  the  fruit  is  combined  with  the 
hot  bread  into  a  shortcake. 

Luncheon,  or  supper,  as  the  lightest  meal  of  the  day, 
offers  great  opportunity  for  unusual  combinations,  not 
only  of  foods  purchased  for  the  purpose,  but  of  left- 
overs. The  fall  and  winter  seasons  call  for  hot  soups, 


60  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

escallops  and  warm  desserts,  while  spring  and  summer 
suggest  dishes  of  light  and  cooling  character. 

A  good  combination  for  one  meal  is  not  enough ;  it 
is  the  ensemble  of  the  day  that  leaves  a  feeling  of  com- 
plete satisfaction.  The  character  of  luncheon  depends 
somewhat  upon  the  occupation  of  those  who  are  to  eat  it. 
Active  bodies  need  heavy  foods,  so  in  winter,  when  pro- 
vision is  to  be  made  for  children  and  hungry  men,  "  rough 
and  ready "  dishes  may  be  utilized,  as  beans,  peas  and 
lentils ;  the  thick  soups,  Indian  pudding,  hot  gingerbread, 
etc.  Whenever  a  light  main  dish  is  served,  the  dessert 
should  be  heavy,  while  a  heavy  main  course  calls  for  a 
light  dessert.  Plum  pudding,  for  instance,  is  out  of  place 
after  a  substantial  dinner,  but  may  be  used  to  advantage 
as  a  luncheon  dessert. 

Heavy  salads  fit  better  into  the  light  luncheon  than  in 
any  other  place,  and  often  form  the  main  dish,  while  a 
fruit  salad  is  always  acceptable  in  place  of  dessert. 
When  a  meat  soup  is  served,  the  main  dish  should  be 
largely  vegetarian,  as  a  potato  or  nut  salad,  a  cheese 
souffle,  or  eggs.  In  case  the  main  dish  is  cold  the  dessert 
should  be  hot,  as  an  apple  shortcake,  while  a  hot  main 
dishj  like  stewed  lentils,  calls  for  a  cold  dessert,  as 
jellied  peaches  and  cake.  In  other  words,  delicious- 
ness  of  combination  depends  upon  contrast  in  tempera- 
ture as  well  as  flavor.  Cream  soups  are  in  place  only 
at  luncheon  or  supper,  because  they  are  so  heavy  that 
they  partly  satisfy  the  appetite.  To  this  end  they  should 
be  counted  as  having  actual  food  value  —  while  the  clear 
dinner  soup  is  used  more  as  a  stimulant.  A  cream  soup 
is  always  bland  m  taste,  and  should  be  followed  by  some 
strong-flavored  dish  of  firm  texture ;  for  instance,  creamed 
chicken  is  too  similar  in  texture  to  harmonize.  Toasted 
ham  sandwiches,  croquettes  or  salads  give  a  better  effect. 

The  following  luncheon  menus  illustrate  this  point : 

Fall  and  Winter 

Cream  of  Lima  Bean  Soup  Croutons 

Nut  and  Potato  Croquettes  Nut  Sauce 

Orange  and  Date  Salad      Ginger  Cookies 
Tea 


THE  FINE  ART  OF  COMBINING  FOODS      61 

Clear  Meat  Soup 

Baked   Cheese  Celery  Hot  Toast 

Mince  Pie 

Spring  and  Summer 

Veal  and  Egg  Salad  Warm  Biscuits 

Shredded  Pineapple  Sponge  Cake 

Iced  Tea 


Halibut  Loaf  Peas  Potato  Chips 

Lettuce  and  Radish  Salad 
Cream  Cake  Raspberry  Lemonade 

The  perfect  winter  dinner  commences  with  soup,  which 
starts  the  gastric  juices,  preparing  the  stomach  for  the 
balance  of  the  meal.  As  a  general  rule  any  clear  soup  is 
in  order,  made,  however,  from  meat  stock  of  different 
flavor  from  the  meat  to  be  served.  Meats  lacking  in 
flavor,  like  veal  or  young  chicken,  should  be  preceded  by 
tomato,  cress,  celery  or  some  other  soup  of  distinct  flavor. 
Oyster  bouillon,  for  instance,  is  too  bland  to  serve  with 
veal;  on  the  other  hand,  heavy  meats,  like  beef,  pork  or 
mutton,  need  delicate  soups,  as  lettuce  or  green  pea. 
Whipped  cream  should  never  be  served  in  a  dinner  soup, 
as  it  adds  too  much  to  the  already  large  amount  of  fat. 

When  the  weather  grows  warm,  it  is  permissible  to 
commence  the  meal  with  a  fruit  cup,  in  which  case  fruit 
should  not  appear  again  on  the  menu.  Iced  soups  and 
bouillons  are  in  good  taste  during  this  season. 

In  planning  the  main  portion  of  the  meal,  one  rule  is 
inviolate  —  potatoes,  rice  and  spaghetti  should  never  ap- 
pear in  the  same  meal,  because  they  are  too  similar. 
When  two  vegetables  are  to  be  served,  one  should  be 
green,  like  asparagus  or  string  beans,  and  one  of  more 
plebeian  character,  like  onions  or  beets. 

Fat  meats  need  fresh  vegetables  and  tart  flavors  to 
"  cut  them  " ;  beef  and  pork  can  stand  the  standard  vege- 
tables, while  game  needs  harmonizing  foods. 

The  following  lists  of  foods  that  may  be  served  to- 
gether are  necessarily  incomplete,  but  they  will  undoubt- 
edly act  as  a  guide  to  any  thinking  housewife  who  desires 
to  make  her  meals  harmonious: 

What  to  Serve  ivith  Beef:  If  roasted,  pot-roasted, 
boiled  or  braised,  use  mashed,  whole  browned,  baked  or 


62  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

boiled,  new  potatoes,;  for  steak  use  mashed  or  French 
fried  potatoes.  Other  vegetables  may  be  onions,  squash, 
Brussels  sprouts,  cabbage,  cauliflower,  tomatoes,  string 
beans,  spinach,  corn,  dandelion  greens,  celery,  peppers  and 
carrots.  All  plain  salad  plants,  with  French  dressing, 
may  be  used,  as  cucumbers,  tomatoes,  celery,  cabbage, 
beets,  onion  or  green  pepper  salad,  the  vegetables  either 
separate  or  in  combination.  For  desserts  choose  light 
dishes,  such  as  fruit  tarts,  fruit  cups,  small  dumplings, 
small  portions  of  cereal  or  bread  pudding,  layer  cake, 
fruit  whips,  small  portions  of  Spanish  cream  or  corn 
starch  pudding,  made  with  water  (not  milk). 

What  to  Serve  with  Lamb  or  Mutton:  With  roast 
mutton  use  the  same  vegetables  as  with  roast  beef.  With 
roast  lamb  use  rice,  mashed  or  whole-boiled  new  potatoes, 
green  peas,  string  beans,  fresh  lima  beans,  sliced  toma- 
toes, summer  squash,  Bermuda  onions,  diced  white  tur- 
nips or  asparagus.  With  boiled  or  braised  mutton  or 
lamb  use  boiled  white  or  sweet  potatoes,  yellow  or  white 
turnips,  oyster  plant,  onions,  string  beans,  spinach,  Brus- 
sels sprouts,  ten-minute  cabbage,  carrots  or  cauliflower. 
Use  any  salad  plants,  with  plain  French  dressing,  or  cel- 
ery, chives,  or  fines  herbes,  sliced  tomatoes,  bananas, 
tart  oranges,  tangerines,  grapefruit,  green  pepper,  boiled 
chestnuts,  or  pimentoes,  in  combination  with  a  salad 
plant.  The  dessert  should  be  distinctive  in  flavor,  and 
may  include  anything  made  of  fruit,  coffee  jelly,  with 
nut  cookies,  sponge  cake  or  plain  layer  cake  put  together 
with  raspberry  jam,  any  light  fruit  ice,  as  apricot  ice, 
bread  puddings  with  fruit  flavor,  boiled  caramel  custard, 
caramel  Spanish  cream,  and  steamed  snow  puffs  with 
grape  juice  sauce. 

What  to  Serve  with  Veal:  Use  mashed,  boiled,  new, 
or  browned  potatoes,  diced  white  turnips,  all  kinds  of 
greens,  beets  with  orange  sauce,  peas,  string  beans,  ten- 
minute  or  escalloped  cabbage,  German  carrots  or  aspara- 
gus. Use  any  salad  plant  with  French  dressing  plain  or 
combined  with  chopped  chives,  fines  herbes,  pickled  car- 
rots, sliced  tomatoes,  green  peppers,  celery,  pimentoes, 
tomato  jelly  or  shredded  new  cabbage.  The  desserts  may 
be  the  same  as  for  lamb  or  mutton. 

What  to  Serve  with  Pork  and  Goose:     Mashed,  boiled 


THE  FINE  ART  OF  COMBINING  FOODS      63 

or  baked  white  or  sweet  potatoes,  cabbage,  cauliflower, 
oyster-plant,  turnips,  apple  sauce,  stewed  tomatoes.  For 
salad  use  any  of  the  salad  plants,  with  French  dressing, 
singly  or  in  combination,  or  with  green  peppers,  celery, 
shredded  cabbage,  sliced  tart  apples,  grapefruit  or  tomato 
jelly.  The  desserts  should  be  light,  consisting  either  of 
fruit  or  fruit  cups,  simple  fruit  dumplings,  or  fruit  whips 
or  gelatine. 

What  to  Serve  with  Poultry:  Mashed,  roasted  or 
boiled  white  or  sweet  potatoes,  cauliflower,  Brussels 
sprouts,  winter  or  summer  squash,  chestnuts,  mushrooms, 
corn,  peas,  string  beans,  celery,  raw  or  cooked,  green 
peppers  stuffed  with  vegetables,  cranberry  sauce  or  jelly. 

Asparagus  should  be  used  with  broiled  chicken.  The 
salads  may  be  the  same  as  those  given  for  lamb  with  the 
addition  of  asparagus  salad.  The  desserts  may  be  some- 
what heavier  in  character,  although  fruit  and  fruit  des- 
serts are  always  correct.  If  desired,  they  may  take  the 
form  of  ice  creams  or  Bavarian  creams,  while  simple 
steamed  puddings  and  small  portions  of  well-flavored 
custards,  and  simple  shortcakes  may  be  used. 

What  to  Serve  with  Corned  Beef:  Boiled  potatoes, 
white  or  sweet,  parsnips,  cabbage,  Brussels  sprouts,  cauli- 
flower, turnips,  beets,  carrots,  and  any  kind  of  greens. 
For  salads  select  any  of  those  to  be  served  with  beef. 
The  dessert  should  be  "  homey,"  such  as  warm  ginger- 
bread, apple  pie,  or  doughnuts  and  cheese. 

What  to  Serve  with  Game:  As  game  is  somewhat 
light,  the  accompanying  vegetables  are  usually  elaborate. 
Among  those  suitable  are  white  or  sweet  potato  cro- 
quettes, celery  plain,  au  gratin,  or  creamed,  sweet  potato 
glace,  stuffed,  broiled  or  fried  tomatoes,  creamed  spinach, 
peas  in  timbale  cases,  peppers  stuffed  with  boiled  rice, 
escalloped  cauliflower,  or  Brussels  sprouts. 

Ripe  olives,  barberry  or  black  or  red-currant  jelly  may 
be  provided.  The  salads  should  be  plain,  preferably  of 
a  combination  of  salad  plants  with  fines  herbes.  Other- 
wise, choose  celery,  tomato  or  a  tart  fruit  salad.  The 
dessert  should  be  simple,  including  only  a  fruit  ice  with 
sponge  cakes,  a  fruit  tup,  baked  stuffed  apples,  or  some- 
thing that  will  carry  out  the  general  idea  of  naturalness 
which  should  surround  a  game  dinner. 


64  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

What  to  Serve  with  Fish:  Plain  boiled  potatoes  dusted 
with  parsley,  roast  potatoes,  French  fried  or  white  or 
sweet  potato  croquettes ;  onions,  stuffed  green  peppers, 
tomatoes,  stewed,  broiled,  fried  or  baked ;  ten-minute  cab- 
bage, turnips,  celery,  pickled  beets,  pickled  carrots,  any 
kind  of  greens.  Use  any  of  the  salads  designated  for  veal. 
Only  dessert  with  a  fruit  foundation  or  flavor  should 
be  used. 

Fruit  salads  are  much  out  of  place  in  the  dinner  menu, 
unless  they  figure  as  the  last  course,  when  they  are  served 
with  crackers,  cheese  and  coffee.  They  are  naturally 
sweet,  and,  when  followed  by  a  dessert,  the  palate  is  apt 
to  become  clogged  with  sweet.  As  a  general  rule  sweets 
and  savories  do  not  mix,  although  occasionally  they  can 
be  blended,  as  currant  sauce  with  ham,  orange  fritters 
with  duck,  or  pineapple  or  orange  and  celery  salad  with 
game.  These  exceptions  must,  however,  be  introduced 
with  sparing  hand,  as  they  often  strike  a  wrong  note 
that  sets  the  whole  meal  askew. 

The  heavy  salad,  swathed  with  mayonnaise  or  boiled 
dressing,  is  entirely  out  of  place  at  dinner  because  it  over- 
loads the  menu  with  fat.  Only  salads  of  green  vegetables 
should  be  selected,  like  lettuce,  pepper  and  cauliflower, 
tomato  and  cress,  cabbage  and  celery,  etc.,  French  dress- 
ing with  variations  alone  being  suitable. 

Dessert  depends  entirely  on  the  rest  of  the  meal. 
Fruit,  either  fresh  or  cooked,  is  always  acceptable  with 
fish  or  fat  meats ;  pies  and  steamed  puddings  are  suitable 
when  the  meat  course  is  light,  as  chops  or  cold  meat. 
Old-fashioned  desserts,  like  doughnuts  and  cheese  and 
Indian  Pudding,  should  be  used  with  meats  like  corned 
beef  or  pork.  A  country  housewife  remarked,  "  Some- 
how a  corned-beef  dinner  and  ice  cream  don't  keep  com- 
pany!" This  is  somewhat  a  matter  of  sentiment,  but 
more  of  the  combinations  of  flavors.  Ordinary  flavors 
do  not  combine  with  those  of  the  more  delicate  type.  The 
two  types  clash,  and  do  not  "  harmonize  "  any  more  than 
walking  shoes  do  with  evening  dress.  Each  has  its  place, 
but  they  must"  be  differentiated.  The  following  menus 
are  illustrative :  ' 


THE  FINE  ART  OF  COMBINING  FOODS      65 

Fall  and  Winter 

Tomato  Soup 

Pot  Roast  of  Beef  Horseradish  Sauce  Macaroni 

Brussels  Sprouts  Onions 

Romaine  Salad 

Baked  Apple  Dumplings  Lemon  Sauce 

Coffee 


Celery  Soup 

Casserole  of  Duck  and  Mushrooms  Brown  Rice 

Green  Peppers,  Stuffed  with  Tomatoes  and  Corn 

Dressed  Lettuce 

Caramel  Bavarian  Cream  Honey  and  Almond  Cake 

Coffee 

Spring  and  Summer 

Onion  Soup 
Veal  Loaf  Tomato  Sauce  Mashed  Potatoes 

Spinach 

Salad  of  Watercress  and  Lettuce 

Jellied  Rhubarb  Drop  Cookies 

Coffee 


Broiled  Chicken  Cream  Sauce 

French  Fried  Potatoes  ^    Stewed  Peas 

Lettuce,  Radish  and  Olive  Salad 

Marshmallow  Ice  Cream  Lady  Fingers 

Coffee 


CHAPTER  VI 
SEASONINGS 

As  a  general  rule  typical  American  cookery  is  liable  to 
be  flat  and  uninteresting,  not  necessarily  because  of  the 
use  of  poor  ingredients,  but  because  the  average  house- 
wife does  not  understand  the  importance  of  good  season- 
ing. The  thing  that  starts  the  digestive  juices  —  "  makes 
the  mouth  water  " —  is  the  delicious  aroma  arising  from 
food  well-cooked  and  seasoned,  and  this  savor  cannot  be 
obtained  by  salt  and  pepper  alone.  Besides,  the  use  of 
too  much  of  these  "  stand-bys  "  has  a  bad  effect  on  the 
body,  the  excess  salt  irritating  the  mucous  membranes, 
and  pepper  having  an  injurious  action  on  the  blood  and 
liver. 

During  the  warm  weather  it  is  not  at  all  difficult  to 
obtain  the  enticing  food-flavors  that  make  eating  some- 
thing more  than  a  necessity  for  Nature  is  bountiful;  gar- 
den, market  and  roadside  combining  to  furnish  a  variety 
of  herbs.  Years  ago  when  everyone  had  a  kitchen  gar- 
den the  herb  corner  was  the  special  care  of  the  house- 
wife, for  she  realized  that  not  only  the  savoriness  of  her 
meats  and  soups  depended  upon  herbs,  but  frequently  the 
charm  of  her  cakes  and  confections  as  well.  Moreover, 
though  she  may  not  have  known  it,  she  was  unwittingly 
supplying  her  family  with  some  of  Nature's  best  medi- 
cines. 

If  possible,  herbs,  like  all  other  foods,  should  be  used 
fresh.  Even  in  winter,  some  of  them  can  be  grown  in 
the  house  in  window  boxes  and  others  may  be  obtained 
from  large  markets  throughout  the  year.  Further,  it  is 
an  easy  matter  to  put  up,  or  dry,  almost  any  of  the  herbs. 
To  preserve  them  so  that  they  will  be  fresh  enough  to  use 
at  any  time,  even  as  garnishes,  arrange  alternate  layers 
of  salt  and  sprigs  of  the  desired  herb  (parsley,  dill,  sage, 
mint,  etc.)  in  wide-mouthed  jars  and  keep  them  well 

66  ' 


SEASONINGS  67 

covered  with  salt,  in  a  cool  place.  Dill,  parsley,  celery 
tips,  mint,  sage,  thyme,  marjoram  and  other  herbs  can 
also  be  put  up  in  cold  water,  like  cranberries  or  rhubarb. 
Select  fresh,  green  sprigs,  finse  well  and  put  them  into 
jars  which  have  been  thoroughly  scalded  and  then  cooled. 
Let  cold  water  run  from  the  faucet  into  the  jars  for  at 
least  ten  minutes  so  that  all  the  air  will  be  dislodged,  then 
seal  with  a  rubber  band  and  cap  as  usual. 

Herbs  may  be  dried  in  two  ways :  They  should  be  free 
from  dirt;  if  necessary,  they  can  be  washed  and  thor- 
oughly dried  before  the  actual  process  of  evaporation 
begins.  Pick  off  the  sprigs  and  lay  them  on  clean  papers 
in  a  warm  room  where  no  sweeping  will  be  done  for  at 
least  two  days.  Turn  occasionally  till  thoroughly  dry 
and  store  in  tightly-closed  tin  boxes,  for  the  savor  is  best 
preserved  if  the  herbs  are  kept  dark  and  the  receptacle  is 
air-tight.  The  second  method  is  more  rapid;  place  the 
sprigs  on  brown  paper  and  dry,  either  in  a  slow  oven  or 
on  wire  trays  which  may  be  suspended  on  pulleys  above 
the  stove.  In  country  districts  these  trays  are  invalu- 
able for  drying  corn,  lima  beans  and  other  vegetables,  as 
well  as  fruit.  To  freshen  dried  herbs,  place  in  a  little 
warm  water  for  a  few  minutes. 

There  are  times  when  a  food  needs  the  enlivening 
touch  of  sour,  or  sweet-sour,  pickles.  -For  sauce  to  serve 
with  lamb  or  fish,  capers  are  usually  suggested,  but  they 
are  rather  expensive  and  may  be  substituted  by  nasturtium 
seed,  which  can  be  used  plain,  as  a  relish,  in  salads,  or 
as  a  decoration  for  salads  or  canapes.  Cucumber  pickles 
of  medium  size  may  be  sliced  lengthwise,  very  thin,  spread 
out  in  fan-shape  and  used  to  garnish  baked  beans.  Finely 
chopped,  they  add  a  good  note  to  boiled  or  mayonnaise 
dressing,  or  they  may  be  added  direct  to  a  salad. 
Pickled  string  beans,  or  flowerets  of  cauliflower,  are  de- 
licious with  ham  or  tongue.  Olives  may  often  be  used 
to  give  variety,  either  with  salads  or  sandwiches,  or  in 
various  cooked  dishes,  as  creamed  shrimps  or  salmon. 
There  are  times  when  plain  or  spiced  meat  or  fish  ab- 
solutely palls.  When  this  occurs,  it  is  a  good  plan  to 
introduce  a  tart  flavor  or  a  sour  sauce.  Beef  a  la  mode 
is  a  good  example  of  a  commonly  known  tart  meat.  It 
is  often  advisable  to  add  a  little  vinegar  or  lemon  to 


68  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

boiling  meat  or  fish ;  a  dash  of  vinegar  is  indispensable 
when  cooking  kidneys,  and  sour  cream  may  be  added  to 
the  gravy  of  different  meat  dishes,  or  may  be  made  into 
a  delicious  fish  sauce  when  a  faint  tart  flavor  is  desired ; 
plain  sliced  lemon  is  delicious  with  tongue. 

Tomatoes,  which  are  acid  and  at  the  same  time  very 
pungent,  may  be  called  upon  for  tart  sauces,  and  are  in- 
valuable for  seasoning  casseroles  and  soups.  However, 
it  should  not  be  repeated  too  often,  for  the  spice  of  sea- 
soning lies  in  frequent  change.  Certain  meats  demand 
a  sweet-sour  flavor;  cider  when  added  to  boiled  ham  be- 
ing an  example,  or  thin  slices  of  ham  baked  in  grape 
juice  is  another.  Tongue  with  raisin  sauce  shows  still 
a  third  possibility.  Sometimes  a  bit  of  sweet  will  help  a 
meat  more  than  anything  else,  a  few  grains  of  sugar  either 
plain  or  caramelized  greatly  improving  veal  or  a  brown 
beef  stew  and  other  meats. 

To  Caramelize  Sugar 

Put  the  sugar  in  a  smooth  frying  pan,  set  it  over  a 
slow  heat  and  let  it  gradually  melt  until  the  color  of 
maple  syrup;  it  will  then  be  very  hot  and  if  combined 
with  a  liquid,  no  matter  if  it  is  boiling,  it  will  harden  and 
must  be  cooked  in  the  liquid  again  until  melted,  before 
being  used. 

A  seasoning  that  every  one  can  have,  yet  which  few 
appreciate,  is  the  onion.  Unless  it  is  to  appear  in  a  stew, 
or  is  very  finely  minced,  only  the  juice  should  be  used, 
as  this  is  the  one  means  by  which  the  flavor  can  be  evenly 
diffused.  To  obtain  the  juice,  select  a  large  onion  but 
do  not  peel  it.  Cut  off  the  top  and  scrape  the  surface 
with  a  spoon  till  the  juice  is  exhausted,  slice  off  another 
layer  and  proceed  as  before  till  the  necessary  amount  is 
obtained.  A  clove  of  garlic,  if  peeled  and  rubbed  around 
the  edge  of  a  salad  bowl,  gives  an  especially  subtle  flavor, 
but  garlic  must  be  used  sparingly  as  it  is  the  strongest  of 
all  flavors.  Onion-  and  celery-salts  are  very  useful  in 
quick-time  cookery,  a  dash  of  celery  salt  frequently  re- 
deeming a  plain  soup,  a  dish  of  creamed  fish  or  meat; 
onion  salt  helping  many,  many  a  soup,  sandwich,  or  a 
meat  dish. 


SEASONINGS  69 

There  are  many  commercial  sauces  which  greatly  help 
to  make  ordinary  fare  "  different,"  but,  as  a  general  rule, 
they  are  thought  rather  expensive.  However,  consider- 
ing the  time  they  last,  the  ultimate  expense  is  small.  A 
half  teaspoonful  of  Worcestershire,  if  added  to  a  French 
dressing,  will  liven  any  simple  salad,  and  besides  being 
well  adapted  to  plain  service  with  meat,  it  is  particularly 
good  when  added  to  certain  soups,  to  gravies,  such  as 
those  from  hamburg  steaks  and  veal  chops;  or  to  shell- 
fish, or  cheese  rarebits.  "  Kitchen  Bouquet "  gives  color 
and  flavor  to  any  anemic-looking  broth  or  gravy  and  to 
some  vegetable  sauces.  The  various  ketchups  are  espe- 
cially useful,  tomato  lending  itself  to  French  dressing, 
soups,  sauces  and  gravies,  while  walnut-  and  mushroom- 
ketchups  are  especially  good  for  seasoning  sauces  for 
fame.  Tabasco  adds  a  live  note  to  vegetable,  meat  or 
sh  soups  and  is  invaluable  in  clam,  oyster,  crab,  or  mush- 
room cocktails.  Even  a  grating  of  lemon  or  orange  rind 
sometimes  gives  just  the  note  that  is  needed  to  raw  oy- 
sters or  clams. 

There  is  no  greater  incentive  for  variety  in  seasoning 
than  to  have  the  ingredients  well-assembled.  Chefs 
realize  this  to  such  degree  that  many  of  them  cook  with 
an  herb  tray  at  hand.  These  are  divided  into  compart- 
ments, each  being  filled  with  a  different  kind  of  dried  or 
powdered  herb.  In  the  household,  however,  it  is  not  prac- 
ticable to  adopt  this  plan,  because,  when  exposed  to  the 
air,  herbs  soon  lose  much  of  their  savor,  and  in  home 
cooking  comparatively  small  amounts  are  used.  A  wicker 
basket  with  a  handle  may  be  kept  near  the  stove  and  in 
it  may  be  placed  small  jars  of  the  different  dried  herbs 
most  in  use,  whole  cloves,  bay  leaves,  mace  and  other 
spices,  celery  seed,  the  various  commercial  sauces,  as  well 
as  shakers  of  paprika,  cayenne,  salt,  and  a  mixture  of 
seven  parts  salt  to  one  of  pepper,  ready  for  use.  These 
should  be  clearly  labeled  on  the  top  of  each  can  when  a 
glance  will  show  just  what  is  needed  and  often  suggest 
blends  of  seasoning  that  would  otherwise  not  be  thought 
of. 

Following  are  a  few  suggestions  for  inexpensive  sea- 
sonings. 


70  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Bouquet  of  Herbs 

A  small  bundle  of  fresh  or  dried  herbs  containing  a 
sprig  each  of  parsley,  sage,  marjoram,  chervil  and  thyme. 
Use  in  the  stock  pot,  for  pot-roasting,  and  in  boiling  fish 
and  spaghetti.  If  the  leaves  are  loose,  tie  in  a  bit  of 
cheesecloth. 

Fines  Herbes 

A  combination  of  herbs  minced  together;  made  up  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  parsley  and  a  half-teaspoonful  each  of 
marjoram,  savory,  chervil  and  a  little  sage.  Sprinkle 
over  broiled,  or  planked,  fish,  place  in  the  fold  of  an 
omelet,  strew  over  shirred  eggs,  or  serve  with  lettuce  or 
romaine.  Dried  herb  leaves  may  be  used  if  freshened 
in  warm  water.  Use  in  stuffing  for  baked  cabbage  or 
game. 

Mint 

Use  fresh  in  mint  sauce,  cabbage  and  mint  salad, 
drinks,  as  orange  mintade  and  angel  tip,  orange  and  mint 
salad,  fruit  cocktails,  hot  or  iced  tea,  or  lemonade ;  fresh, 
or  dry,  in  a  casserole  of  duck,  apple  jelly  or  gelatine, 
canned  or  dried  pea  soup  and  with  peas. 

Bay  Leaves 

Use  sparingly  in  meat  soups,  bisques  made  of  had- 
dock and  cod,  or  stewed  tomato ;  cream  of  tomato  or 
celery  soup.  Boil  with  veal,  ham,  game  and  fish.  Use 
in  warm  water.  Use  in  stuffing  for  baked  cabbage  or 
meat  or  fish  and  in  brown  and  tomato  sauces. 

Parsley 

Use  sparingly,  fresh,  or  dried  and  freshened;  with 
omelets,  shirred  eggs,  and  chopped  meat,  mushrooms, 
broiled  tomatoes,  buttered  potatoes,  in  butter  sauce  for 
fish,  in  soups  and  salads. 

Dill 

Use  fresh,  or  dried  and  freshened;  in  egg  salad,  plain 
salads,  creamed  soups  and  on  broiled  fish. 


SEASONINGS  71 

Dried  Mushroom  Trimmings 

Use  as  a  basis  for  mushroom  soup,  mushroom  sauce, 
and  in  cream  or  brown  sauce  for  oysters,  veal,  fish, 
chicken  and  any  place  where  a  mushroom  flavor  is  de- 
sirable. 

Sage 

Use  fresh  or  dry  with  beef,  ham,  or  pork,  and  chopped 
meats;  sifted  into  cornmeal  mush  for  frying,  and  oc- 
casionally with  cabbage ;  string  beans  or  spinach  cooked 
with  salt  pork ;  also  in  bread  dressings  for  pork,  beef  or 
ham. 

Thyme  and  Marjoram 

Use  with  light  meats,  as  turkey,  broiled  squab,  pan- 
cooked  chicken  and  fish ;  in  bread  dressings ;  and  with 
boiled  beans. 

Tarragon 

When  fresh,  mince  and  sprinkle  on  plain  salads,  or 
sparingly  on  broiled  fish.  Use  fresh  or  dry  in  making 
tarragon  vinegar.  Use  in  chicken,  fish  and  veal  salads. 

Horseradish 

Use  with  heavy  meats,  mixed  with  a  little  vinegar  and 
sugar,  or  as  a  sauce  made  with  stock  and  crumbs;  beat 
into  butter  and  spread  on  broiled  or  planked  fish ;  use  in 
sandwiches;  add  to  pickled  beets,  or  beet  and  cabbage 
salad.  Dried  horseradish  may  be  freshened  and  used  in 
the  same  way. 

Mixed  Pickle  Spice 

Use  a  teaspoonful  in  making  two  quarts  of  soup  stock, 
boiling  mutton,  fish,  corned  beef,  ham,  or  tongue,  mak- 
ing tomato  soup,  pickling  beets,  cauliflower  and  carrots 
for  immediate  use.  To  use,  tie  loosely  in  cheesecloth. 

Whole  Cloves 

Use  in  making  soup  stock,  sweet-sour  sauces,  baked 
carrots,  boiled  beans,  spiced  beets,  boiling  fish,  and  bak- 
ing ham  in  cider  or  grape  juice,  coddled  apples  or  pears 
and  spiced  punch. 


72  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Mustard 

Sprinkle  sparingly  on  lettuce  to  be  dressed  at  the  table, 
in  mustard  sauce,  for  potatoes,  beef  and  so  on;  combine 
minced  ham  and  tongue  for  sandwiches,  and  add  occasion- 
ally to  cheese  dishes. 

Mace 

Use  sparingly  with  spiced  beef,  oysters,  veal ;  in  mayon- 
naise for  shell-fish,  occasionally  in  sauce  tartare,  French 
oyster  soup,  escalloped  oysters,  sauce  for  asparagus,  po- 
tato croquettes.  Use  in  rich  cookies,  berry  pie  and  pound 
cake  to  produce  the  old-fashioned  flavor. 

Nutmeg 

Use  very  judiciously  as  the  flavor  is  pronounced ;  with 
spinach,  mushrooms,  or  in  place  of  mace.  It  may  be 
combined  with  pickled  beets  or  carrots,  also  sweet  pota- 
toes ;  stuffed  baked  potatoes,  escalloped  fish.  Grate  over 
custard  pie,  or  junkets,  use  in  custards,  any  apple  dish, 
occasionally  with  cooked  peaches  or  pears,  or  whenever 
a  blend  of  spices  is  desired. 

Stick  Cinnamon 

Use  with  pickle  spice,  in  boiling  corned,  or  spiced, 
beef,  ham,  smoked,  or  fresh,  tongue,  occasionally  with 
fish,  and  in  making  court  bouillon.  A  little  is  delicious 
with  chocolate,  either  hot  or  iced,  or  in  chocolate  corn 
starch  pudding,  or  chocolate  frappe.  It  combines  well 
with  boiled  apples,  escalloped  pears,  either  fresh  or  dried, 
stewed  figs,  or  prunes. 

Ground  Cinnamon 

Use  in  apple  and  squash  pie,  doughnuts,  apple  rolls, 
Dutch  apple  cake,  in  the  syrup  for  basting  baked  apples, 
currantade,  spice  cakes,  cinnamon  toast,  cinnamon  loaf, 
etc. 

Caraway  Seed 

Use  with  pork  sausage;  in  red  cabbage  salad,  for 
caraway  vinegar,  in  old-time  seed  cakes,  rye  and  sweet 
breads. 


SEASONINGS  73 

Coriander  Seed 

Use  in  candies ;  sparingly  sprinkled  on  cookies ;  ground, 
in  cakes,  sweet  rolls  or  bread. 

Curry 

Use  with  meats  which  need  livening;  as  soup  meat, 
boiled  chicken,  sweetbreads,  etc.,  or  as  a  sauce  for  ham, 
tongue,  or  fish,  or  in  boiled  or  mayonnaise  dressing,  to  be 
used  with  veal,  lamb,  or  vegetables.  Serve  curried  rice, 
or  potatoes  with  m  chicken,  veal,  or  lamb,  either  plain  or 
creamed.  Curry  sauce  may  be  used  with  quickly-boiled 
cabbage,  cauliflower,  carrots,  or  onions. 

Celery  Tips 

Use  for  celery  soup,  bouillon,  in  sauce  for  fowl,  for 
creaming  oysters,  lamb,  or  chicken,  in  making  chicken 
jelly,  boiling  veal  for  loaf ;  in  potato  soup  and  oyster  stew. 

Cheese 

Cheese  in  various  forms  may  be  used  to  give  variety 
in  flavoring.  The  most  commonly  used  with  meats,  eggs, 
soups  and  spaghetti  is  Parmesan,  but  to  be  wholly  satis- 
factory, this  must  be  bought  in  bulk  form  and  grated; 
it  is  also  less  expensive  this  way  than  in  bottles.  How- 
ever, American  cheese  may  be  used  to  good  advantage 
in  a  similar  way.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  save  all  rinds  and 
bits  of  cheese,  dry  them  in  a  current  of  air  and  grate 
them  for  use  as  needed. 


CHAPTER  VII 

THE  EQUIPMENT  AND  ARRANGEMENT  OF  THE 
KITCHEN 

CHOOSING  THE  UTENSILS 

The  kitchen  is  a  most  interesting  room,  and,  in  the 
hands  of  a  skilful  woman,  can  be  made  the  most  attrac- 
tive in  the  house.  But  rest  assured  that  it  will  not  be  at- 
tractive arid  loved,  if,  three  times  a  day,  it  is  the  scene 
of  nerve-racking  attempts  to  cook  without  adequate  tools. 
There  are  always  a  certain  number  of  pots  and  pans  that 
are  indispensable ;  bowls,  of  various  sizes,  are  needed  ; 
wire  utensils,  others  of  wood  and  various  other  little  con- 
veniences; beyond  this  the  list  swells  towards  luxury. 

It  is  not  a  good  plan  to  furnish  the  kitchen  in  "  one 
ware  "  for  the  various  kinds  on  the  market  all  have  dif- 
ferent uses.  If  one  is  buying  for  durability,  a  partial 
aluminum  equipment  is  a  good  investment;  this  costs 
more  than  other  wares,  but  seems  to  wear  almost  in- 
definitely. It  will  not  break  or  chip,  has  no  seams  or 
joints  in  which  bacteria  may  collect;  any  indentures  may 
easily  be  straightened  out  by  light  hammering;  it  is  light 
and  easily  cleaned.  For  large  utensils,  like  a  teakettle, 
stock  pot,  etc.,  aluminum  is  invaluable.  However,  only 
guaranteed  wares  should  be  selected. 

Enamelware  of  standard  quality  is  always  satisfactory, 
but,  unfortunately,  it  is  difficult  to  ascertain  the  best 
grades,  as  price  is  no  indication.  I  purchased  a  large 
amount  of  enamelware  at  a  high  price,  only  to  find  it 
chipping  within  a  month ;  later  securing  a  cheaper  grade 
which  has  been  in  constant  use  for  five  years.  The  safest 
way  to  buy  enamelware  is  to  get  one  piece  and  try  it 
out  by  putting  some  water  in  it,  boiling  it  up,  and  then 
dashing  it  in  cold  water;  if  it  can  stand  this  vigorous 
treatment  you  may  be  sure  it  is  good.  This  brings  up  the 
question  of  "  seconds  " ;  buying  them  is  always  a  gamble, 

74 


THE  EQUIPMENT  OF  THE  KITCHEN      75 

for  though  unpopular  shapes  or  job  lots  are  often  so 
classed,  and  may  give  satisfaction,  the  next  lot  might 
chip  in  a  minute. 

Although  sometimes  called  "  old-fashioned,"  tinware 
still  has  a  place  in  the  kitchen.  Not  in  the  line  of  pots 
and  stew-pans,  perhaps,  for  it  has  a  tendency  to  discolor 
boiling  liquids,  but  for  the  dishpan,  bread  tins,  layer, 
sheet,  and  loaf  cakepans.  For  durability  only  heavy  well- 
tinned  ware  should  be  purchased,  and,  whereas  this  costs 
more  than  the  thin,  stamped  variety,  it  is  worth  the 
extra  expense.  Iron,  too,  still  has  a  usage  —  it  is  the 
best  possible  medium  for  the  old-fashioned  pot  roast  — 
while  an  iron  skillet,  when  properly  heated,  is  more  satis- 
factory than  any  other,  kinrl  An  iron  frying  kettle,  that 
fits  the  stove,  is  preferable  to  other  types,  because  it  is 
not  easily  overturned. 

Now  that  we  have  finally  learned  to  adopt  our  grand- 
mother's method  of  oven  cookery,  earthenware  or  glass 
baking  utensils  are  indispensable,  not  only  because  they 
develop  delicious  flavors,  and  are  really  time-savers,  but 
because  they  are  attractive  enough  to  use  as  serving 
dishes.  The  varieties  of  these  articles  are  innumerable 
—  pie  plates,  casseroles,  baking  dishes,  custard  cups  — 
the  selection  varying  with  one's  pocketbook.  However, 
earthenware  is  sometimes  a  "  delusion  and  a  £nare," 
cracking  with  the  first  cooking  and,  like  enamelware, 
should  be  tested.  Before  using  put  them  to  boil  up  in  a 
kettle  of  cold  water,  let  come  slowly  to  boiling  point,  then 
cool  in  the  water.  If  they  crack  with  this  process,  the 
manufacturers  will  replace  them  —  if  they  are  not  "  sec- 
onds." It  is  always  advisable  to  include  a  few  china, 
glass,  or  earthenware  bowls  for  beating  eggs,  etc.,  but 
the  mixing  bowls  should  be  of  enamel  or  aluminum  as 
they  are  lighter  to  handle  and  more  durable.  In  fact,  for 
actual  practicability,  there  is  no  better  utensil  for  mixing 
than  a  saucepan,  because  of  its  handle. 

This  brings  up  a  very  important  point  in  the  purchasing 
of  equipment  —  that  of  making  each  utensil  do  the  double 
duty  of  saving  space  in  storing  and  extra  handling,  and 
at  the  same  time  be  durable  and  adapted  to  the  con- 
venience of  each  individual  housekeeper. 

Glass  fruit  jars  with  screw  tops,  in  pint  and  quart 


76  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

sizes,  are  excellent  for  storing  supplies,  while  jelly  jars 
with  covers  are  useful  for  spices,  etc.  They  are  also  par- 
ticularly good  for  the  ice-box,  as  they  can  be  covered, 
a  glance  sufficing  to  show  the  amount  and  condition  of 
foods. 

The  choice  of  utensils  depends,  somewhat,  on  the 
rest  of  the  furnishings ;  for  instance,  if  a  kitchen  cabinet 
is  to  be  used,  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  provide  a  mould- 
ing board  or  sugar  bucket. 

One  should  also  consider  the  shape  of  the  utensil;  for 
example,  food  will  boil  more  quickly  in  a  broad  and  shal- 
low sauce-pan.  The  edges  should  be  rounded  rather  than 
angular  to  permit  quick  cleansing,  and  all  double  boiler 
tops  should  be  provided  with  handles. 

The  following  lists,  while  not  cast  iron,  represent  a 
necessary  equipment  for  good  work.  The  luxuries  — 
a  double  roasting  pan,  a  steamer,  bread  mixer,  ice-cream 
freezer,  etc. —  may  be  slowly  acquired.  One  clever 
woman  put  away,  into  a  jar,  twenty-five  cents  every  week, 
from  the  housekeeping  money,  towards  new  utensils. 
Her  kitchen  became  a  model  of  convenience,  and  with  its 
pretty  scrim  curtains,  white  paint,  pale  green  walls,  red- 
cushioned  rocker  and  shiny  utensils,  developed  into  the 

most  attractive  room  in  the  house. 
t 

Aluminum 

i  teakettle       (with       double  i  salt  dredge 

boiler  top)  i  flour  dredge 

i  stock  pot    (12  quarts) 

Aluminum  or  Enamelware 

1  four-quart  kettle  and  cover          i  one-quart    double   boiler 

2  two-quart  kettles  and  cov-  i  one-pint  double  boiler 
ers                                                     2  nine-inch  pie  plates 

i  one-pint  sauce  pan  i  funnel 

half-pint  sauce  pan  i  four-quart  bowl  for  bread 

roasting   pan    for   fish  (10           i  two-quart   bowl 

or  12  inches  long)  i  one-quart  bowl 

seven-inch  omelet  pan  2  pint  bowls 

hand  basin  2  half-pint  bowls 

two-quart  double  boiler  i  triple  utensil 

Earthen-  and  Glass-ware 

6  pint  fruit  jars  i  teapot 

6  jelly  tumblers  with  covers          i  two-quart  casserole 


THE  EQUIPMENT  OF  THE  KITCHEN      77 


6  quart  fruit  jars 

i  lemon  borer 

I  one-quart  baking  dish 

I  two-quart  baking  dish 


6  custard  cups 

i  bean  pot  and  cover 

i  butter  jar 


Steel  and  Iron 


I  eleven-inch  frying  pan 

i  frying  kettle 

i  double  chopping  knife 

1  meat  knife 

2  common  steel  forks 

3  plated  knives 

3  plated  tablespoons 


plated  teaspoons 
paring  knife 
bread  knife 
can  opener 


Tinware 


1  colander  2 

2  layer  cake  pans 

i  sheet  cake  pan  i 

1  brick  cake  pan  i 

2  nine-inch    pie-plates  i 
2  bread  pans  i 
2   muffin     tins      (6  muffins           i 

each)  i 

2  measuring  cups  i 

I  pint  cup  3 
i  grater,   four  sides 
i  apple  corer 


pan-cake  turner 
corkscrew 
wheel  egg-beater 
three-prong  ice  pick 
pair  scissors 
dish  scraper 
food  chopper  (medium 
size) 
scale 

roasting  pan  (sixteen 
inch) 


biscuit  cutters  (2  different 

sizes) 

garbage  can 

sink  scraper 

dust  pan   (long  handled) 

half-pint  ladle 

bread-box 

cake-box 

flour  can 

milk  pans   (if  there  is  no 

separator) 


Wire 


frying  basket,  to  fit  kettle 

broiler  for  steak 

toaster 

small   strainer 

cake  rack 

Woodenware 


i  potato  masher 

i  flour   sieve,   wheel  type 

i  dish  drainer 

i  egg  whip 


moulding  board 

rolling  pin 

meat  board 

bread  board 

small  chopping  bowl 

large  wooden  spoon 

spatula-style    spoon 

small    spatula-style    spoon 

vegetable   brush 

corn  broom 

sink  brush 


i  stovebrush 
floorbrush 
scrubbrush 

stepladder  and  chair  com- 
bined 

mop   and  handle 
sugar  bucket 
dry  mop 
ironing  board 
long-handled  scrubbrush 


78  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Miscellaneous  Ware 

4  linen  dish  towels  4  cheesecloth    bags    for    let- 

4  coarser  dish  towels  tuce,  etc. 

2  knit  dish  cloths  I  electric,  gas,  or  alcohol  flat 
6  Turkish  hand  towels  iron 

3  coarse   floor  cloths  i  wash  board   (glass) 

i  dustless  duster  i  wash    boiler    (copper    bot- 

6  washable  holders  with  slip  torn) 

covers  i  scrubbing  pail 

i  fire    extinguisher 

THE  KITCHEN  FURNISHINGS 
AND  THEIR  ARRANGEMENT 

The  test  of  a  well-planned  kitchen  is  the  amount  of  in- 
telligent work  that  can  be  accomplished  in  it  in  the  least 
possible  time.  Is  the  kitchen  too  large,  therefore,  neces- 
sitating much  walking  to  and  fro  ?  Is  it  located  near  the 
pantry  and  storerooms?  Where  is  the  refrigerator,  or, 
in  case  no  ice  is  used,  where  is  the  cold  storage  for  food  ? 
Is  the  sink  of  comfortable  height  ?  Are  the  cooking 
utensils  arranged  in  the  best  possible  position  for  use? 
Is  the  lighting  good?  Is  it  a  cheerful  room,  or  the  most 
dingy  in  the  household?  These  are  a  few  of  the  ques- 
tions that  must  be  met  when  a  really  practicable  kitchen 
is  to  be  planned. 

Attractive  surroundings  have  an  inspiring  effect  upon 
any  housekeeper  and,  in  spite  of  her  smothered  longings 
and  bravely  unuttered  desires,,  the  possessor  of  a  dingy 
kitchen  often  longs  for  a  prettier  room  and,  when  it  is 
realized  that  the  average  woman  spends  fully  a  third  of 
her  time  in  the  kitchen,  it  seems  quite  as  reasonable  to 
expend  a  little  money  for  paint  and  furnishings  for  her 
workshop  as  for  a  new  cement  walk  or  fence,  or  attrac- 
tive office  fixtures  for  the  man  of  the  house. 

Since  the  wall  serves  as  background  for  the  room  the 
finish  should  be  unobtrusive.  Whenever  possible  it  will 
be  found  most  satisfactory  to  paint  the  walls  with  a  pre- 
pared oil  paint  rendering  them  washable  with  soap  and 
water;  they  can  be  renewed  every  other  year.  For  a 
dark  kitchen  with  a  northern  exposure,  a  light  buff  is  a 
cheery  color,  while,  in  a  bright  sunny  room,  a  soft  green 
will  absorb  the  light  and  rest  the  eyes.  The  wainscot 
and  mop-board  may  be  painted  in  a  slightly  darker  shade 
of  the  same  color,  while,  if  the  chairs,  table  legs  and 


THE  EQUIPMENT  OF  THE  KITCHEN      79 

wood  about  the  sink  are  to  be  done,  it  is  a  good  plan  to 
use  a  darker  shade  as  it  is  less  liable  to  show  soil.  If  it 
is  necessary  to  paper  the  walls,  choose  a  washable  paper 
or  one  with  a  tiled  design  in  blue  and  white ;  this  gives  a 
clean  appearance,  and,  if  the  latter  is  coated  with  a  white 
varnish,  it  can  be  washed  as  necessary  and  will  last  for 
several  years.  Another  good  plan  is  to  put  on  an  oil- 
cloth wainscot  —  papering  above  it. 

The  most  sanitary  finish  for  the  ceiling  is  plain  white- 
wash, because  it  can  be  renewed  frequently,  but,  if  the 
ceiling  is  in  too  bad  condition  to  be  left  unpapered,  the 
whitewash  may  be  used  over  any  light  paper.  The  best 
finish  for  the  kitchen  floor  is  usually  dictated  by  the  con- 
dition of  the  floor  itself.  When  it  is  old  and  seamed, 
there  are  but  three  solutions  —  first,  a  plain  floor  which 
must  be  scrubbed  or  mopped ;  second,  an  oiled  floor ;  third, 
a  good  floor  paint  with  a  coat  of  hard  varnish.  If  oil  is 
to  be  used  good  results  can  be  obtained  from  any  stand- 
ard preparation  which  costs  about  seventy-five  cents  a 
gallon.  As  these  oils  are  usually  made  of  crude  paraffine 
with  the  wax  fused  into  them  they  will  present  a  hard 
surface  rather  than  the  sticky  result  obtained  when  boiled 
linseed  oil  is  used.  All  things  considered  the  best  floor 
paint  is  the  old-fashioned  floor  yellow,  either  prepared 
with  the  varnish  in  it,  or  with  a  coat  of  varnish  applied 
after  the  coat  is  dry.  A  good  grade  of  such  paint  costs 
about  two  dollars  a  gallon,  but  this  amount  will  cover 
approximately  four  hundred  square  feet.  Two  coats 
should  be  applied.  When  there  are  children  in  the  house- 
hold, they  will,  of  necessity,  spend  much  of  their 
time  in  the  kitchen  with  the  house-mother.  In  this  case 
the  floor  should  have  a  linoleum  or  cork  covering  to  add 
to  its  warmth.  If  this  is  rubbed  over  occasionally  with 
a  little  floor  oil  or  wax,  it  will  last  much  longer  and  will 
be  more  easily  cleaned.  Rag,  cork  or  grass  rugs  should 
be  placed  before  the  sink  and  entry  door. 

The  question  of  convenient  size  for  a  kitchen  is  fre- 
quently raised,  and  whether  OF  not  it  should  be  large  or 
small  depends  on  the  type  of  family.  However,  the  ideal 
kitchen  is  small  and  compact  and  should  be  used  only  for 
the  preparation  of  the  meals.  A  visit  to  a  Pullman 
kitchen  is  an  eye-opener  in  regard  to  compactness  and 


8o  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

efficiency.  In  a  small,  well-planned  kitchen,  every  inch 
of  wall  space  has  literally  its  use  and  the  time  saved  in 
preparing  the  meals  in  the  small  space  is  just  as  much  as 
that  which  would  be  spent  in  walking  about  a  too  large 
room  in  quest  of  this  or  that.  At  the  same  time  a  limited 
working  space  necessitates  constant  clearing  away,  thus 
acting  as  a  check  upon  any  tendency  to  work  in  a  muss 
and  proving  in  the  end  a  real  time-saver. 

But  everyone  cannot  have  a  kitchen  which  acts  only  as 
a  workshop.  If  the  house-mother  has  several  children 
and  does  her  own  work,  she  will  appreciate  an  ample 
kitchen,  well-arranged,  because  it  will  be  large  enough  to 
take  in  the  children  and  their  toys  without  having  them 
underfoot.  All  the  cooking  apparatus  should  be  together 
as  in  an  invisibly  divided  room,  while  the  sewing  machine, 
the  children's  play  box  and  a  comfortable  chair  or  two 
should  be  placed  on  a  good-sized  rug  in  another  part  of 
the  room.  Whether  or  not  there  should  be  a  pantry  is  an 
open  question  which  depends  largely  on  the  size  of  the 
kitchen.  If  the  room  is  small,  or  if  it  is  to  act  as  the 
only  sitting  room  of  a  maid,  a  well-planned  pantry  will 
prove  a  great  convenience.  The  shelving  should  be  open. 

A  kitchen  cabinet  should  be  provided,  if  possible,  but  if 
it  is  not,  a  series  of  well-placed  shelves  should  be  put 
about  fifteen  inches  apart  above  the  cooking  table,  the  low- 
est being  wide  enough  to  accommodate  the  mixing  bowls 
and  heavy  utensils.  The  shelf  above  may  be  used  for 
spices  and  flavorings,  cereals  and  small  quantities  of  meal, 
all  of  which  may  be  stored  in  large  glass  jars.  All  of 
the  receptacles  should  be  labeled,  the  labels  themselves 
being  varnished  on;  measuring  cups,  spoons,  egg-beat- 
ers, etc.,  may  be  hung  from  hooks  along  the  shelves,  or 
on  the  table  ends.  Both  table  and  shelves  should  be  zinc- 
covered,  although  oilcloth  may  be  used.  A  shelf  should 
be  adjusted  beneath  the  table,  about  fifteen  inches  from 
the  floor,  and,  if  a  cleat  is  nailed  around  it,  it  may  be 
used  for  kettles  and  other  utensils.  With  this  arrange- 
ment it  will  be  possible  to  accomplish  a  large  amount  of 
cookery  without  leaving  the  table,  except  to  go  to  the 
stove.  This  brings  up  the  greatest  disadvantage  of 
doing  the  mixing  in  the  pantry.  The  stove  is,  of  neces- 
sity, in  the  kitchen,  thus  entailing  many  extra  steps. 


AN  ADEQUATE  TIRELESS  COOKER 


A  GROUP  OF  ICE-CREAM  MOULDS 


THE  EQUIPMENT  OF  THE  KITCHEN      81 

However,  this  can  be  partially  overcome  if  an  electric 
plate,  or  one-burner  gas  stove,  is  placed  at  the  right- 
hand  end  of  the  cooking  table.  If  this  is  done,  salad 
dressing,  custards,  many  a  pudding,  vegetable  or  soup  can 
be  cooking  while  other  dishes  are  being  prepared  on  the 
table.  It  will  also  be  found  most  inconvenient  to  have 
the  preparation  table  or  a  kitchen  cabinet  in  the  pantry 
unless  the  sink  also  Is  placed  there. 

Both  the  cooking  table  and  the  sink  should  be  made  of 
convenient  height  for  comfortable  work  without  un^ue 
stooping,  and  a  revolving  stool  that  may  be  adjusted  as 
desired,  should  be  provided  so  that  the  housekeeper  can 
sit  during  part  of  the  work.  If  the  table  is  too  low,  raise 
it  by  means  of  blocks  of  wood.  If  possible,  a  porcelain 
sink  should  be  chosen.  Needless  to  say,  all  the  plumbing 
should  be  open  and  the  utensils  used  in  dish  washing, 
together  with  some  ammonia,  a  scouring  soap,  steel  wool 
and  a  soapdish  attached  to  the  faucets  should  be  grouped 
around  the  sink.  If  the  sink  cannot  be  adjusted  to  cor- 
rect height,  which  varies  with  the  woman,  buy  a  galvan- 
ized iron  pan  or  rack  and  set  the  dishpan  upon  it  to  raise 
it  to  correct  height.  If  possible,  drain  boards  or  shelves 
should  be  on  each  side  of  the  sink,  but  this  is  not  always 
practicable. 

After  scraping  and  stacking  the  dishes,  they  should  be 
placed  upon  a  shelf,  or,  in  lieu  of  that,  a  wheel  tray,  at 
the  right  of  the  sink.  The  dishes  should  be  washed  and 
placed  to  drain  on  a  dish  dryer  at  the  left  of  the  sink. 
Frequently,  the  cooking  table  may  be  placed  at  the  left 
of  the  sink,  if  there  is  no  drain  board. 

As  far  as  possible  all  the  cooking  dishes  should  be 
washed  up  as  fast  as  they  accumulate,  and,  if  a  woman 
plans  right,  she  will  have  very  few  pots  and  pans  to 
wash  after  the  meal  is  completed.  If  she  is  going  to  have 
company,  she  will  certainly  plan  an  oven  or  steamer- 
meal  to  avoid  any  last-minute  cookery.  Frequently,  the 
cooking  dishes,  if  there  are  only  a  few,  can  be  quickly 
washed  up  before  the  meal  is  served.  In  clearing  the 
table  the  dishes  should,  as  far  as  possible,  be  stacked, 
the  previous  scraping,  if  done  with  a  rubber  dish  scraper, 
being  but  the  work  of  a  few  moments.  The  dishes 
should  then  be  washed  in  the  following  order:  Glass, 


82  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

silver,  small  china,  large  china  dishes,  then  the  cooking 
utensils,  if  there  are  any  left. 

The  range  should  be  set  as  near  as  possible  to  the  cook- 
ing table;  again  the  question  of  correct  height  must  be 
considered,  for  there  is  no  better  way  to  prevent  back- 
ache than  not  to  have  it.  In  selecting  any  range,  whether 
for  wood,  coal,  or  gas,  choose  one  simple  in  design  and 
easy  to  clean.  Whatever  the  fuel  'used  in  the  winter, 
either  gas,  electricity  or  kerosene  should  be  used  during 
the  summer.  Stoves  of  these  types  are  not  expensive, 
and  the  cost  will  be  retrieved  in  the  fuel  saved  during 
two  summers'  use.  An  adequate  fireless  cooker  is  of  the 
greatest  assistance,  whatever  the  fuel. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  buy  the  most  expensive  ice-box, 
but  rather  one  of  convenient  size,  large  enough  to  con- 
tain a  hundred  pounds  of  ice  and  made  narrow  so  that  it 
will  fit  into  any  house.  There  should  be  few  trimmings, 
— •  an  ice-box  does  not  belong  in  the  parlor !  The  ideal 
refrigerator  has  a  side  compartment  for  ice  —  the  cool- 
ing surface  being  greatly  in  excess  of  that  where  the  ice 
is  put  in  top.  However,  if  the  former  is  not  available, 
the  latter  will  be  much  better  than  none  and  should  have 
side-doors,  as  this  makes  it  possible  for  the  iceman  easily 
to  fill  the  box.  If  the  compartment  opens  at  the  top,  he 
might  drop  the  ice  in  and  crack  or  bend  the  zinc  lining. 

Several  insulations  are  used,  an  air  layer,  mineral  wool 
and  charcoal  being  the  most  common.  Charcoal  is  used 
in  the  better  refrigerators  and  furnishes  the  most  cold- 
tight  insulation,  because  it  is  firmly  packed  in  and  cannot 
settle,  as  does  the  mineral  wool.  Any  cracks  in  the  lining 
should  be  repaired  at  once,  lest  the  moisture  work  into  the 
space.  The  air-space  insulation  is  used  only  in  the 
cheaper  ice-boxes ;  whatever  the  material,  it  is  not  giving 
good  service  unless  it  keeps  the  refrigerator  at  an  even 
temperature  of  forty  degrees  Fahrenheit,  provided  the 
ice  compartment  is  kept  filled  and  the  doors  tightly  closed. 
Any  refrigerator  that  contains  moist-cold  is  inadequate, 
as  moisture  promotes  bacterial  growth.  Try  putting 
some  matches  in  your  refrigerator  for  a  few  days ;  if 
they  will  light  on  removal,  the  refrigerator  is  doing  good 
service. 

The  inner  lining  may  be  of  zinc,  enamel,  porcelain  or 


THE  EQUIPMENT  OF  THE  KITCHEN      83 

glass.  Zinc  is  used  in  the  cheaper  grades,  and,' when  it 
becomes  black,  may  be  covered  with  two  coats  of  flat 
white  and  one  of  bathtub  enamel;  this  is  not  only  easier 
to  clean  but  enables  one  to  see  the  contents  better.  Glass 
and  porcelain  are  both  excellent  linings,  but  the  price  may 
be  prohibitive  to  the  average  person.  The  shelves  should 
be  adjustable,  and  of  wire ;  no  wood,  not  even  under  the 
ice-tray,  should  be  used  in  the  interior  construction.  The 
inner  parts  should  furnish  the  smallest  of  lodging  places 
for  bacteria,  as  they  will  get  in  anyhow  and  can  be  con- 
trolled only  by  the  even  cold,  which  retards  their  growth. 
If  possible,  the  refrigerator  should  have  several  compart- 
ments, as  this  is  of  great  assistance  in  keeping  the  foods ; 
butter,  cream  and  milk,  for  instance,  should  be  kept 
alone.  Meats,  and  all  other  foods,  should  be  covered,  as 
they  absorb  odors. 

Then  there  is  the  question  of  the  drain  pipe.  In  many 
cases  it  has  direct  connection  with  a  sewer  and  is  a 
breeder  of  disease,  as  germs  collect  and  grow.  Better 
use  the  old-fashioned  pan. 

And  the  question  of  ice.  In  the  first  place  be  sure  it  is 
pure  for,  if  taken  from  contaminated  waters,  typhoid 
may  develop.  The  ordinary  snow  ice,  containing  air  bub- 
bles which  hold  the  germs,  is  especially  to  be  avoided. 
Although,  of  course,  ice  is  always  washed  before  placing 
in  the  refrigerator,  a  piece  of  cheesecloth  laid  underneath 
will  catch  much  of  the  sediment  and  aid  in  keeping  the 
drain  pipe  clean. 

It  is  more  economical  to  replenish  with  a  large  piece  of 
ice  rather  than  small  ones,  and  it  also  keeps  the  box 
cooler.  As  it  hinders  radiation  —  the  basis  of  refriger- 
ation —  the  wrapping  of  ice  should  always  be  avoided. 

The  range,  the  sink,  the  cooking  table  or  kitchen  cabi- 
net, the  stool  and  the  ice-box,  together  with  a  suitable 
place  for  the  receiving  of  soiled  dishes  furnish  the  back- 
bone of  the  kitchen  equipment.  To  this  should  be  added 
a  comfortable  rocking  chair,  if  the  size  of  the  room  war- 
rants it,  and  a  commodious  shelf  for  cook  books,  recipe 
files  and  a  file  of  menu  cards.  A  slate  put  in  a  con- 
spicuous place  should  be  adopted  on  which  to  chart  out 
the  day's  menu,  at  least  three  meals  in  advance,  and  a 
calendar  memorandum  card  will  make  short  work  of  the 


84  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

notation  of  each  day's  supplies  as  they  come  in.  It  is  an 
easy  matter  to  make  up  the  household  accounts  each  week 
from  this  pad.  A  good  spring  scale  is  a  necessity,  a 
wheel  tray  is  a  great  asset,  one  of  the  best  types  being  in 
wood-colored  finish  with  two  trays ;  this  can  be  folded  if 
desired,  and  may  be  used  in  any  room  in  the  house,  as  a 
tray  for  the  invalid,  tea  tray,  or  even  for  piazza  refresh- 
ments. 

The  best  place  for  the  dishes  is  in  a  small  pantry  or 
passageway  between  the  kitchen  and  dining  room. 
Needless  to  say  these  shelves  should  be  closed  in  tightly. 
However,  all  the  cooking  dishes,  bowls,  earthenware, 
cooking  glass,  etc.,  should  be  grouped  near  the  cooking 
table. 

No  kitchen  can  be  arranged  according  to  set  rule.  But 
generally  speaking  the  following  order  should  be  fol- 
lowed as  closely  as  possible :  Both  sink  and  stove  should 
be  near  windows.  A  shelf  or  table  for  stacking  soiled 
dishes  should  be  at  the  right  of  the  sink  and  a  shelf,  or 
drain  board,  at  the  left.  If  the  room  is  very  small  and 
must  act  as  the  laundry  as  well,  the  preparation  table  or 
kitchen  cabinet  may  be  dispensed  with  and  set-tubs,  with 
white  enamel  tops,  may  replace  it.  A  group  of  shelves 
should  be  placed  above  the  tubs,  so  that  the  cooking 
materials  may  be  properly  grouped.  The  ice-box  belongs 
at  the  left  of  this  cooking  table.  The  china  shelves 
should  be  as  near  the  sink  as  is  convenient.  A  zinc-cov- 
ered shelf,  or  lightweight  zinc-covered,  or  porcelain 
topped  table  should  be  placed  beside  the  stove.  If  there 
is  not  room  for  this,  the  wheel  tray  can  be  called  into 
requisition. 

The  correct  placing  of  the  utensils  is  a  point  that  de- 
serves emphasis.  The  knives  belong  where  the  paring  is 
to  be  done  and  may  be  slipped  into  leather  pockets  on  the 
wall.  The  chopping  knife  belongs  near  the  chopping 
bowl,  the  cooking  spoons  at  the  place  where  they  will  be 
needed  and  not  in  some  obscure  drawer.  The  frying 
pans  belong  near  the  stove  and  should  be  hung  at  correct 
height,  not  stowed  away  in  some  cupboard  just  because 
there  happens  to  be  one.  In  other  words,  common  sense 
must  assist  in  arranging  the  kitchen  and  grouping  the 
utensils. 


CHAPTER  VIII 
RANGES  AND  THEIR  OPEEATION 

The  kitchen  range  is  the  power  plant  of  the  home,  and 
as  such  should  be  the  first  article  of  household  equip- 
ment purchased  and  should  be  kept  in  as  good  condition 
as  the  piano  or  the  silver.  No  range,  whether  for  coal, 
kerosene,  gas,  or  electricity,  will  take  care  of  itself,  and 
the  housewife  should  be  as  familiar  with  its  moods,  good 
points  and  possible  bad  points  as  a  pianist  is  familiar  with 
the  black  and  white  keys  of  the  piano. 

THE  COAL  RANGE 

An  adequate  coal  range  must  cook  steadily,  bake 
evenly,  and  broil  unsmellingly  —  and  do  it  without  con- 
suming its  weight  in  coal  every  day!  It  should  be  eco- 
nomical of  fuel,  bake  evenly  all  over  the  oven,  simple  and 
easy  to  operate,  durable  and  very  plain,  so  that  it  may 
be  cleaned  easily.  To  be  truly  economical  a  range  should 
demand  the  use  of  but  two  hods  of  coal  a  day  and  as  the 
weather  grows  warm  of  even  less,  provided,  of  course, 
that  the  housewife  understands  its  operation. 

The  fire-box  should  be  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the 
range,  so  that  an  unnecessary  amount  of  coal  will  not  be 
consumed,  as  is  the  case  when  it  is  too  large,  and  so  that 
the  heat  may  be  delivered  where  it  belongs,  which  cannot 
be  done  if  it  is  too  small.  The  sides  should  be  perpen- 
dicular so  that  ashes  will  not  lodge  against  the  fire-brick. 
The  grate  bars  should  be  durable,  but  should  not  be  so 
heavy  that  the  supply  of  air  which  reaches  the  fire 
through  them  is  insufficient.  On  the  other  hand,  if  they 
are  too  light,  they  will  warp  quickly.  The  side  draft 
should  open  below  the  grate  bars  into  the  chamber 
between  the  ash  pan  and  grate,  so  that  the  air  will  be 
made  warm  before  it  strikes  the  burning  coals ;  therefore 
causing  them  to  burn  out  instead  of  dying  out,  thus 
affecting  a  considerable  economy  in  fuel. 

The  surface  of  the  range  should  be  plain  and  smooth, 

8s 


86  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

and  there  should  be  comparatively  little  nickel  trimming. 
A  polished  steel  top,  which  may  be  washed  instead  of 
blackened,  can  be  obtained  with  any  range  for  about  three 
dollars  extra.  This  insures  a  clean  cooking  surface; 
means  fewer  black-bottomed  cooking  utensils  to  wash, 
and  as  it  takes  about  fifteen  minutes  to  polish  the  top  of 
the  range,  it  will  effect  considerable  saving  of  time  during 
the  year.  Too  much  cannot  be  said  about  the  necessity 
of  keeping  the  range  bright  and  shining,  for  it  is  truly  the 
heart  of  the  kitchen. 

In  case  a  home  is  not  permanent,  a  leg  range  will  prove 
to  be  the  best  purchase,  as  it  is  more  easily  moved  than 
one  of  the  cabinet  type;  whichever  is  chosen,  a  good- 
sized  zinc  square  should  be  placed  underneath  it  to  catch 
possible  drippings  of  fat,  and  so  on. 

In  purchasing  a  range,  always  ascertain  first  whether 
or  not  the  stove  is  insulated,  so  that  the  heat  will  be 
reflected  against  the  surfaces  where  it  is  desired ;  in  other 
words,  retained  in  the  range  rather  than  unduly  thrown 
'off  into  the  kitchen.  Be  sure  that  the  oven  is  large 
enough  and,  if  possible,  select  a  range  that  has  a  drop 
door  rather  than  one  of  the  hinge  type.  Be  sure  that 
there  is  an  adequate  supply  of  heat  flowing  around  the 
oven,  as  otherwise  it  will  not  "  bake  well."  The  dampers 
must  fit  tight  in  order  adequately  to  control  the  fire. 
Cheaply  constructed  ranges  will  frequently  have  loose- 
fitting  dampers  to  prevent  pinching  or  binding  at  the 
rough  edges.  The  stove  should  be  constructed  so  that 
broiling  can  be  conducted  directly  over  the  live  coals 
rather  than  over  a  lid  on  the  top  of  the  .stove,  so  that  the 
smoke  may  be  carried  up  the  chimney. 

The  problem  of  the  ashes  and  their  removal  is  one  of 
the  greatest  with  which  the  housewife  has  to  contend  in 
kitchen  cleanliness.  If  the  range  is  being  installed  per- 
manently in  a  home,  it  will  be  an  untold  convenience  to 
have  an  ash  chute  put  into  the  range,  whereby  the  ashes 
are  conducted  directly  to  the  basement.  This  is,  perhaps, 
expensive,  but  will  pay  in  the  end,  over  and  over  again. 
In  emptying  the  ashes  from  the  ordinary  range,  it  will  be 
found  that  they  will  not  fly  if  they  are  thoroughly 
dampened,  and,  if  the  ash  pan  is  emptied  faithfully  every 
day,  very  little  muss  will  result. 


RANGES  AND  THEIR  OPERATION         87 

To  Build  a  Fire  and  Operate  the  Coal  Range.  Close 
all.  the  dampers,  except  the  oven  dampers;  remove  the 
covers  from  the  top  of  the  stove  and  brush  the  soot  and 
ashes  into  the  fire-box.  Turn  over  the  grate  in  order  to 
dump  the  ashes  into  the  ash  pan.  Scrape  off  anything 
which  has  been  spilled  on  the  bottom  of  the  oven.  Put  a 
very  thin  layer  of  coal  on  the  bottom  of  the  fire-box, 
leaving  plenty  of  air  spaces  between  the  pieces.  On  this 
put  a  layer  of  crumpled  newspaper  or  shavings,  filling  the 
fire-box  about  one-third  full.  On  this  lay,  crosswise, 
pieces  of  kindling,  being  sure  that  they  reach  the  corners. 
Take  care  that  the  fuel  is  arranged  loosely  in  order  to 
allow  free  passage  of  the  air.  Light  the  fire  by  applying 
a  lighted  match  between  the  bars  of  the  grate  to  the 
paper  or  shavings.  When  the  wood  is  burning  well,  add 
two  shovelfuls  of  coal,  not  too  large,  and,  when  that  has 
burned,  add  more  coal.  By  this  method  the  coal  ignites 
both  below  and  above  the  wood,  and  a  thicker  fire-bed  is 
obtained  in  a  shorter  time  than  by  the  usual  method.  If 
the  stove  is  to  be  blackened,  it  should  be  done  as  soon  as 
the  fire  is  lighted. 

When  the  fire  is  well  started,  close  the  oven  dampers 
and  half  close  the  lower  damper,  and,  when  it  is  burning 
well,  the  lower  damper  may  be  entirely  closed  and  the 
chimney  damper  half  closed. 

For  an  even  hot  fire,  be  sure  that  all  the  ashes  are 
shaken  out,  and  keep  the  fire-box  three-fourths  full  of 
coal.  The  lower  front  and  chimney  dampers  should  be 
opened,  but  the  oven  and  check  dampers  should  be 
closed.  When  the  coal  is  beginning  to  ignite,  the 
dampers  should  be  closed.  Such  a  fire  is  of  the  type  that 
is  used  for  ironing,  and  is  good  for  two  or  three  hours 
without  the  addition  of  more  coal.  If  the  irons  are  put. 
on  to  heat  while  the  fire  is  getting  into  this  condition, 
considerable  time  may  be  saved. 

To  direct  the  heat  to  the  oven,  the  oven  and  chimney 
dampers  should  be  opened  and  the  others  closed,  but  to 
get  good  results  from  the  oven,  no  matter  how  expensive 
the  range  may  be,  it  must  be  cleaned  frequently  on  top 
and  undernea'th.  If  there  is  a  vacuum  cleaner  in  the 
house,  it  can  be  used  for  this  purpose,  as  well  as  for  the 
stove-pipe. 


88  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

As  different  stoves  have  different  dampers,  it  is  impos- 
sible to  give  special  directions  for  the  management  of  a 
fire  that  can  be  used  with  any  range.  However,  a  gen- 
eral rule  is  to  open  all  the  dampers  when  building  a  fire 
and  to  close  the  oven  damper  when  the  coal  is  burning: 
well. 

To  check  the  fire  somewhat,  open  the  slide  in  the 
check  damper;  and  to  cool  it  quickly,  open  the  check 
damper  itself,  keeping  the  other  dampers  closed. 

In  very  cold  weather  and  to  save  time,  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  keep  the  fire  over  night,  although  this  necessitates  the 
use  of  a  little  more  fuel  than  is  needed  when  the  fire  is 
built  fresh  every  morning.  To  do  this,  the  fire-box 
should  be  filled  with  coal;  the  check  damper  should  be 
opened,  and  the  other  dampers  closed.  In  the  morning, 
the  fire  should  be  shaken  down  thoroughly  and  fresh  coal 
added  a  little  at  a  time. 

Like  everything  else,  the  stove  will  do  better  work  if 
the  fire  is  rested  occasionally.  For  instance,  if  baking  is 
to  be  done  at  supper  time,  close  all  the  dampers  after  hav- 
ing built  up  a  good  fire  after  dinner,  and  leave  them  closed 
until  about  half  an  hour  before  time  to  put  the  food  into 
the  oven. 

GAS  AND  COMBINATION  RANGES 

When  it  is  necessary  to  heat  the  kitchen  during  the 
cold  months  by  means  of  the  coal  range,  the  best  possible 
purchase  is  a  combination  coal  and  gas  range.  These 
come  equipped  for  either  natural  or  artificial  gas.  How- 
ever, as  it  is  somewhat  easier  to  cook  with  gas,  it  is  a 
good  plan  to  select  a  combination  range  that  consists  of  a 
gas  stove  with  a  coal  heater  attachment.  This  can  be 
run  on  a  hod  of  coal  for  a  day  and  a  night,  and  can  be 
equipped  with  a  water-front.  This  coal  attachment  is 
approximately  the  size  of  a  laundry  stove,  and  can  be 
used  for  boiling  clothes,  heating  fiatirons,  cooking  vege- 
tables, and  carrying  on  the  various  cooking  processes 
which  are  adapted  to  the  top  of  the  stove.  The  gas 
equipment  can  be  used  for  all  quick  work,  baking,  and 
during  the  summer  when  the  saving  of  heat  is  an  item. 
This  type  of  range  is  usually  equipped  with  a  gas  kindler, 
which  insures  the  quick  ignition  of  coal. 


RANGES  AND  THEIR  OPERATION         89 

The  combination  range,  which  burns  both  natural  gas 
and  coal,  is  frequently  equipped  with  a  general  oven, 
which  can  be  used  with  either  fuel.  Care,  however,  must 
be  taken  in  selecting  a  range  of  this  type  to  be  sure  that 
it  will  give  adequate  service.  This  type  is  especially  good 
for  use  in  severe  weather  when  natural  gas  fluctuates. 

No  matter  what  kind  of  a  range  is  being  selected,  it 
should  be  of  good  cooking  height,  so  that  the  housewife 
will  not  have  to  bend  over  unduly  while  doing  her  work. 
Gas  and  electric  ranges,  which  are  of  the  newer  school, 
can  be  found  in  many  makes  of  the  right  height,  but  coal 
ranges,  unfortunately,  are  more  usually  made  low,  prob- 
ably because  they  always  have  been !  In  selecting  a  gas 
range,  purchase  one  that  has  a  high  oven  and  drop  oven 
doors,  the  oven  preferably  being  finished  with  aluminized 
paint.  There  are  two  or  three  types  of  ranges  on  the 
market  which  have  a  direct  heat  action,  so  that  the  food 
can  be  put  into  a  cold  oven,  thereby  effecting  considerable 
gas  saving.  Most  of  the  better  ranges  come  equipped 
with  self-lighters,  but  if  this  is  not  provided  with  the 
range,  it  can  be  put  on  for  $2.50  extra.  There  should  be 
no  waste  space,  no  excess  trimming  to  clean,  and  the 
burners  should  be  of  a  type  that  are  easily  cleaned. 

Like  the  coal  range,  it  needs  daily  attention.  All  food 
that  is  spilled  should  be  cleaned  off  at  once,  the  oven  kept 
clean,  the  airholes  free,  while  the  zinc  plate  underneath 
the  top  burners  needs  daily  attention.  If  the  range  is 
rubbed  off  occasionally  with  a  suitable  oil,  it  will  not 
rust,  or  "  liquid  veneer  "  may  be  rubbed  on  weekly  to  keep 
it  clean  and  shiny.  Blacking  and  stove  enamel  are  not 
satisfactory  for  use  on  the  gas  range.  The  oven  will 
not  rust  if  the  door  is  left  open  while  the  oven  is  cooling. 
If  a  solid  top  is  provided,  it  should  be  of  polished  steel 
for  sanitary  reasons.  Combination  gas  ranges  and  fire- 
less  cookers  are  on  the  market ;  some  of  them  give  excel- 
lent service,  but  care  should  be  taken  to  select  one  of  un- 
doubted repute,  as  the  cheaper  type  is  not  always  depend- 
able. 

Operating  the  Gas  Stove.  The  amount  of  the  gas  bill 
depends  upon  the  thoughtfulness  and  common  sense  of 
the  cook  and  the  brains  of  the  woman  who  plans  the 
meals.  Gas,  rightly  used,  is  the  most  cleanly  and  eco- 


90  MRS.  .ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

nomical  of  fuels ;  when  used  without  intelligence,  it  is  one 
of  the  most  expensive. 

The  oven  should  not  be  lighted  until  the  food  is  nearly 
ready  to  be  put  into  it, —  eight  minutes  with  two  burners 
is  usually  sufficient  to  make  it  very  hot,  five  or  six  will 
give  a  medium  heat.  When  roasting  meat,  the  economi- 
cal housewife  will  plan  to  cook  her  potatoes  and  pudding 
in  the  same  oven,  or  better  still  will  roast  her  meat  in  the 
broiler, —  and  have  all  the  oven  space  for  other  foods. 
Or  if  she  is  to  have  a  broiled  steak  for  dinner,  she  will 
take  advantage  of  the  hot  oven  above  to  cook  a  shortcake 
or  bake  her  biscuits.  Vegetables  are  delicious  when  baked 
and  can  often  be  cooked  at  the  same  time  with  the  pie  or 
cake  or  baked  apples.  In  other  words,  she  will  take 
advantage  of  all  the  heat,  not  allowing  any  to  be  wasted. 

When  "  boiling  "  meat,  as  it  is  usually  termed,  the  ket- 
tle should  be  placed  over  the  "  simmerer "  or  small 
burner,  where  it  will  remain  at  the  right  temperature  and 
cook  slowly  —  if  potatoes  are  boiling,  advantage  can  be 
taken  of  the  steam,  a  colander  set  over  the  kettle  and 
some  other  vegetables  or  dessert  cooked  by  the  steam  that 
is  usually  wasted. 

If  the  family  is  small,  it  will  be  found  a  great  economy 
to  purchase  a  set  of  triple  utensils  (three  separate  parts 
which  fit  together),  which  can  be  put  over  one  gas  burner. 
By  this  means  three  articles  can  be  cooked  at  once  by  the 
same  amount  of  heat, —  a  saving  of  labor  and  fuel.  A 
steam  cooker  of  square  design  can  be  obtained  with  sev- 
eral shelves.  In  one  of  these,  with  the  use  of  one  burner 
to  heat  the  water,  can  be  cooked  a  pot  roast,  vegetables, 
potatoes,  pudding  and  brown  bread  for  a  family  of  six, 
all  at  the  same  time! 

Double  boilers  and  all  kettles  should  be  shallow,  with 
broad  bottom,  so  that  the  foods  may  be  quickly  heated. 
A  standard  toaster  should  be  purchased,  so  that  it  will 
not  be  necessary  to  heat  the  broiling  oven  to  make  a  slice 
of  toast,  and  a  sheet  iron  plate,  to  set  over  a  burner,  will 
be  found  a  great  convenience  in  heating  flat-irons  as  well 
as  cooking.  By  using  such  a  plate  the  heat  is  diffused 
over  a  wider  space,  and  instead  of  keeping  two  irons  hot, 
three  or  four  can  be  heated  on  it  by  the  same  amount  of 
gas. 


RANGES  AND  THEIR  OPERATION         91 

For  the  housekeeper  using  a  gas  plate,  a  perforated 
iron  disc,  with  cover  fitting  over  it,  furnishes  an  adequate 
oven  for  a  small  family.  A  pan  of  biscuits,  baked  apples 
or  potatoes,  and  the  finishing  of  an  omelet  are  among  its 
possibilities. 

KEROSENE  RANGES 

Whether  or  not  gas  or  electricity  may  be  obtained,  the 
housewife  need  not  use  the  coal  range,  unless  she  wishes 
to  do  so,  for  several  excellent  kerosene  ranges  are  on  the 
market,  which  are  economical  of  operation,  clean  and 
quick.  Each  has  its  own  method  of  operation,  but  the 
general  principles  of  cookery  applied  to  the  gas  range 
may  be  used  in  the  operation  of  the  kerosene  stove,  such 
as  oven  and  steamer  meals  and  the  like. 

COOKING  BY  ELECTRICITY 

There  are  two  styles  of  electric  ranges:  the  cabinet 
type  and  the  single  oven  type.  In  the  former  the  oven 
is  elevated  to  a  comfortable  working  height;  in  the  latter 
the  oven  is  low,  necessitating  stooping.  If  there  is  plenty 
of  room  in  the  kitchen  the  cabinet  range  will  prove  the 
best  selection,  but  when  space  is  limited,  as  in  small 
apartments,  the  single  oven  type  can  be  used;  moreover 
this  type  of  range  is  somewhat  less  expensive. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  electric  range  units,  or  heaters, 
the  open  coil  unit,  or  radiating  type  and  the  enclosed  coil 
unit,  or  contact  type. 

In  the  former,  the  cooking  units,  or  hot  plates,  or  as 
they  are  sometimes  called,  lids,  disc  heaters,  or  elements, 
are  exposed  in  such  way  that  the  time  necessary  to  bring 
them  to  cooking  heat  is  only  about  three  and  a  half 
minutes.  At  the  same  time  they  are  rather  hard  to  clean 
and  great  care  must  be  taken  that  foods  do  not  boil  over 
upon  them  or  that  grease  is  not  spilled  in  the  units,  be- 
cause it  is  difficult  to  clean  them  thoroughly  without  in- 
jury. In  the  second  type  of  range,  the  heating  units  are 
enclosed,  the  top  of  the  range  being  like  that  of  the  ordi- 
nary coal  range  in  appearance,  with  discs,  or  lids,  which 
may  be  lifted  for  cleaning  as  needs  be.  Because  of  this 
covering  it  takes  a  little  longer  to  bring  the  units  to  the 
cooking  point,  approximately  four  and  a  half  to  five 


92  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

minutes.  On  the  other  hand,  the  solid  top  retains  the 
heat  and  the  amount  of  current  needed  to  carry  on  the 
cooking  is  less  than  in  the  open  coil  unit,  and  therefore 
equalizes  the  extra  time  needed  in  bringing  the  units  to 
cooking  heat  over  the  three  minutes  necessitated  by  the 
open  coil  units. 

Notwithstanding  extra  care  the  open  coil  unit  is  liable 
to  oxidize,  or  rust,  necessitating  an  occasional  renewal  of 
units  after  four  or  five  years'  use.  On  the  other  hand, 
the  enclosed  coil  unit  cannot  oxidize  or  rust  so  rapidly  as 
the  open  coil,  and  therefore  has  longer  life.  Electric 
ranges  equipped  with  the  open  coil  units  are  less  expen- 
sive than  those  of  the  enclosed  coil  units,  so  in  the  end, 
notwithstanding  a  possible  renewal  of  units,  if  the  open 
coil  type  is  purchased,  the  cost  will  be  approximately  the 
same. 

Every  electric  range  should  be  provided  with  a  broiler 
pan  that  fits  the  oven,  preferably  of  enamel,  for  if  the 
broiler  pan  does  not  fit  in  the  oven  cleats,  the  pan  may  be 
chipped  and  the  oven  dented,  should  the  pan  happen  to  be 
put  in  carelessly.  In  every  oven  there  should  be  a  shelf 
equipped  with  a  baffle  plate  of  sheet  metal,  placed  directly 
over  the  bottom  heat  unit,  to  insure  an  even  distribution 
of  heat  In  selecting  an  electric  range  the  following 
points  should  be  carefully  noted  — 

The  oven  should  have  rounded  corners  and  be  ade- 
quately ventilated  and  equipped  with  a  drop  door. 

The  range  should  be  of  comfortable  cooking  height, 
the  selection  varying  from  thirty-one  to  thirty-five  inches. 

There  should  be  no  waste  space. 

The  oven  should  be  easy  to  clean  and  free  from  cracks. 

There  should  be  no  parts  left  unfinished,  because  of  the 
liability  of  rusting  and  the  difficulty  of  cleaning. 

The  range  should  be  finished  complete  in  japan,  with 
nickel  trimming  and  white  splashers,  which  act  as  danger 
signals  for  dirt. 

The  electric  range  needs  as  much  care  as  a  range  of 
any  other  type/  All  water  should  be  wiped  off  as  soon 
as  it  is  spilled.  Grease  should  be  immediately  cleaned 
off,  and  there  should  be  waged  a  constant  war  on  rust. 
The  oven  should  be  refinished  every  six  months  with 
aluminized  paint,  which  anyone  can  apply.  This  may  be 


RANGES  AND  THEIR  OPERATION         93 

obtained  from  any  hardware  store,  where  full  directions 
for  its  use  will  be  given. 

The  electric  range  has  several  distinct  advantages  over 
the  coal  and  gas  types.  It  is  absolutely  accurate,  and, 
when  once  established,  the  cooking  time  never  varies.  A 
loaf  of  bread  that  will  bake  in  fifty  minutes  to-day  will 
bake  in  exactly  the  same  time  to-morrow,  provided  the 
current  is  managed  in  the  same  way.  In  order  to  give 
the  units  time  to  come  to  cooking  heat,  it  is  necessary  to 
think  ahead  a  little  more  when  using  an  electric  range. 
It  will  take  an  oven  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes  to  reach 
baking  temperature,  and  because  of  this  slowness,  it  is 
not  possible  to  put  many  foods  into  the  cold  oven,  as  can 
be  done  in  many  gas  ranges. 

The  oven  which  is  insulated  to  retain  heat  makes  pos- 
sible many  economies.  ,  After  once  being  heated,  it  can  be 
kept  hot  with  a  small  amount  of  current,  just  enough  to 
supply  the  heat  lost  by  radiation,  and  advantage  can  be 
taken  of  all  the  latent  heat,  even  after  the  current  is 
turned  off,  in  the  drying  of  bread  crusts,  parsley,  celery 
tips,  etc.  It  is  an  interesting  fact  that  the  shrinkage  of 
meat  in  the  electric  oven  is  less  than  when  either  gas  or 
coal  is  used,  probably  because  the  meat  is  seared  over 
more  quickly  on  account  of  the  direct  top  heat,  and  there- 
fore the  juices  are  retained  in  greater  amount.  Also,  the 
electric  oven  furnishes  the  cleanest  heat,  for  because  of 
the  ventilator  no  fumes  collect  and  there  is,  of  course,  no 
danger  of  tainting  the  food  as  there  is  with  coal,  or  ordi- 
nary gas.  Probably  the  point  that  appeals  to  most 
women  about  the  electric  range  is  that  there  is  prac- 
tically no  heat  coming  from  it,  so  that  the  kitchen  does 
not  become  over-heated.  This  is  true,  not  only  with  the 
oven,  but  with  the  top  of  the  range  with  regard  to  the 
heat  units.  At  the  same  time  there  is  no  dust,  dirt, 
burned  matches,  and  rare  possibility  of  fire.  Certainly 
there  is  no  danger  of  the  baby's  being  burned ! 

The  cost  of  operation  depends  entirely  upon  the  cook- 
ing rate  for  current  in  the  city  where  the  range  is  used. 
Careful  figures  show  that  the  average  family  will  con- 
sume approximately  125  killowatts  per  month.  At  the 
present  writing  over  3,500  central  stations  or  electric 
light  companies,  are  giving  a  cooking  rate  of  five  cents  or 


94  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

less  per  killowatt  hour  to  their  customers.  The  cost  of 
operation,  as  with  any  range,  depends  largely  on  the  care- 
fulness of  the  housewife.  If  care  is  taken  to  reduce  the 
current  when  possible,  to  take  advantage  of  latent  heat, 
and  to  turn  off  the  current  as  soon  as  the  cooking  is  fin- 
ished, the  cost  of  operating,  when  current  sells  for  two 
cents  per  killowatt  hour,  will  be  aproximately  the  same 
as  gas,  when  the  latter  sells  for  ninety  cents  per  thousand 
cubic  feet,  or  coal  when  the  latter  sells  at  from  $7.50  to 
$9.00  per  ton. 

As  with  the  gas  or  coal  range,  the  utensils  have  con- 
siderable to  do  with  the  economical  running  of  the  elec- 
tric range.  Aluminum  furnishes  the  quickest  medium  of 
transferring  heat.  A  clover-leaf  (or  triple)  utensil, 
whereby  three  foods  can  be  prepared  at  one  time,  over 
one  unit ;  an  adequate  steamer,  flat-bottomed  utensils  and 
a  goodly  equipment  of  casseroles  and  oven  dishes  will  be 
found  great  conveniences.  Methods  for  steaming  and 
for  preparing  meals  in  the  oven  are  given  in  the  chapter, 
the  Short-Cut  Preparation  of  Meals,  and  may  be  applied 
to  the  electric  range  as  well  as  to  that  of  any  other  type. 

Some  ranges  are  equipped  with  automatic  cooking  at- 
tachments for  turning  on  and  off  the  current.  These 
have  a  certain  appeal  and  work  for  a  limited  time,  but 
they  are  liable  to  get  out  of  order. 

The  average  housewife  is  confused  by  the  terms  used 
by  the  "  trade."  A  little  study  of  the  following  defini- 
tions of  terms  frequently  used  in  connection  with  the 
sale,  operation  and  demonstration  of  the  range  will  pre- 
vent confusion. 

Unit.  The  name  given  to  the  electric  heater  used 
.either  in  the  oven  or  on  the  cooking  top.  It  is  sometimes 
called  "  the  hot  plate,"  "  disc,"  "  element,"  etc. 

Switches.  The  controlling  mediums  by  which  the 
units  are  turned  on  or  off. 

Fuses.  The  protecting  plugs  located  near  the  con- 
trolling switches.  These  are  so  constructed  that  any  ex- 
cess current  or  abnormal  condition  will  cause  them  to  cut 
off  the  current'  automatically.  In  other  words,  they  are 
an  automatic  safeguard. 

Main  Switch.  The  heavy  or  large  switch  installed  in 
the  wire  leading  to  the  range. 


RANGES  AND  THEIR  OPERATION         95 

Pilot  Light.  An  indicating  lamp  that  burns  only  when 
the  current  is  on;  usually  placed  at  or  near  the  main 
switch. 

Socket.  A  term  applied  to  a  lamp  socket,  or  outlet,  on 
the  side  of  the  range,  to  which  may  be  attached  an  electric 
iron,  toaster,  or  any  auxiliary  apparatus. 

Lead  Wires.  Two  or  three  wires  projecting  from  a 
part  of  the  body  of  the  range  to  which  the  main  entrance 
wires  are  attached. 

Service.  A  general  term  applied  to  meters,  switches 
and  wiring  installed  by  the  central  station. 

Killowatt  Hour.  The  number,  of  watts  (measures  of 
current)  consumed  by  an  electric  heater  during  an  hour. 
All  rates  are  figured  on  the  killowatt  hours  consumed, 
just  as  gas  is  figured  on  the  cubic  foot. 

Terminals.  Equipment  for  connecting  heating  units  to 
wires  —  terminals  come  in  two  forms  and  are  called  plugs 
or  connections. 


CHAPTER  IX 
THE  SHORT-CUT  PREPARATION  OF  MEALS 

A  great  deal  has  been  said  and  written  about  efficiency 
in  the  household,  waste  motions  and  a  useless  expendi- 
ture of  energy,  but,  whereas  women  are  willing  to  do  the 
housework  in  quicker  time,  the  number  of  hours  which 
are  being  spent  in  actual  cookery  are  not  greatly  lessened 
and,  in  many  instances,  have  really  increased  along  with 
the  taste  of  the  public  for  greater  variety  and  more 
elaborate  meals. 

There  are  several  reasons  why  an  undue  amount  of 
time  is  spent  in  the  kitchen.  One  is  because  the  majority 
of  women  do  not  understand  the  methods  and  general 
proportions  upon  which  all  recipes  are  based,  and,  having 
little  fundamental  knowledge,  their  work  lacks  freedom 
and  ease ;  a  second  reason  is  because  most  housewives  fail 
to  plan  out  their  meals  for  at  least  a  day  or  two  ahead. 
This  planning  is  absolutely  necessary,  as,  otherwise,  there 
is  a  frequent  repetition  of  the  same  cooking  process  dur- 
ing the  day,  duplicate  dishwashing  and  a  double  amount 
of  fuel  is  used.  It  may  not  seem  possible  to  plan  out  the 
meals  in  advance ;  properly  speaking  it  is  better  to  sched- 
ule them  for  even  a  week  ahead,  leaving  luncheon  or  sup- 
per blank  to  allow  for  the  utilization  of  left-overs.  This 
week's  schedule  can  be  posted  in  the  kitchen,  or  may  be 
kept  on  file  at  the  desk;  the  meals  for  each  day  being 
copied  off  on  the  kitchen  slate. 

This  planning  ahead  makes  possible  systematic  market- 
ing twice  a  week,  or,  in  case  one  lives  a  long  distance  from 
the  market,  once  a  week.  It  saves  the  daily  annoyance 
of  grocer,  butcher  and  vegetable  man,  clears  the  mind  of 
the  unnecessary  details  which  confuse  most  women,  and 
makes  possible  a  more  economical  spending  of  the  house- 
hold allowance.  At  the  same  time  it  is  possible  to  tell 
at  a  glance  just  what  supplies  one  needs,  for  instance, 

96 


SHORT-CUT  PREPARATION  OF  MEALS   97' 

from  the  vegetable  cellar,  or  the  storeroom,  one  trip  suf- 
ficing to  get  together  the  vegetables  or  other  food  for 
several  meals,  while  a  glance  is  sufficient  to  show  exactly 
what  foods  of  like  nature  are  to  be  prepared  for  three 
meals  at  a  time,  thereby  making  possible  the  saving  of 
cooking  processes. 

The  following  table  shows  the  best  way  in  which  to 
work  out  the  weekly  planning  of  meals.  By  arranging 
the  meals  in  columns  any  duplicate  foods  and  flavors  are 
instantly  noted,  for  mistakes  have  a  way  of  staring  out  at 
one,  when  put  down  in  black  and  white. 

If  I  were  to  give  any  specific  rule  for  the  use  of  left- 
overs, I  should  say  control  them;  for  instance,  if  rice  is 
being  cooked,  plan  to  prepare  enough  so  that  there  will 
be  an  ample  supply  left  over  for  rice  cakes  for  the  next 
day;  steam  enough  potatoes  at  one  time  for  two  meals; 
cook  enough  macaroni  for  one  day's  luncheon,  and  for 
the  next  day's  dinner  soup,  and  the  like.  These  instances 
may  be  multiplied  indefinitely. 

But  it  is  not  necessary  to  confine  this  combining  of 
processes  to  left-overs ;  there  are  many  foods  that  can  be 
made  in  quantity,  which  will  keep  for  some  time,  thus 
obviating  the  constant  repetition  of  the  cooking  process. 
Good  examples  of  these  are  mayonnaise,  boiled  and 
French  salad  dressings ;  pie  crust  for  two  or  three  bak- 
ings ;  baked  pastry  shells  enough  for  two  or  three  weeks ; 
several  loaves  of  fruit  cake  and  so  on. 

The  accomplishment  of  quick  work  is  somewhat  a  mat- 
ter of  environment,  for  upon  the  general  orderliness  of 
the  room  depends  the  ability  of  the  brain  to  think  rapidly 
and  to  good  purpose.  No  matter  how  hurried  one  may  be 
there  is  no  excuse  for  working  in  a  clutter.  The  best 
possible  method  is  to  wash  up  the  cooking  dishes  as  fast 
as  they  are  used,  being  careful  not  to  duplicate  utensils 
unless  absolutely  necessary;  stack  up  the  dishes,  do  not 
heap  them  in  the  sink,  which  means  that  they  will  have 
to  be  taken  out  again  before  washing.  Learn  to  do  two 
or  three  articles  at  a  time,  planning  the  work  so  that  the 
same  utensil  may  be  used  over  without  washing.  For 
instance,  a  double  boiler  could  be  used  for  heating  milk 
for  junket,  for  making  custard,  and  then  for  boiled  salad 
dressing,  without  being  washed.  It  takes  brain  to  think 


98 


MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 


0        2 


TUESDAY 
Onion  Soup 
.oast  of  Lamb 
Mash 


o 

fa 


I -a 

Is 

c&% 

|   .  It! 

rt  b.o 
ecu 

p^ 

-    g 

-—         c$ 

&    is 

rt       CO 


WEDNESDAY 
Tomato  Soup 
mb  Creamed  P 
ungarian  Carrots 
Dressed  Cress 
e  Roll  Pudding 
Foamy 
Coffee 


La 
H 

.lat 


U 


W 


« 
- 


U 


'3       P 


Q  <U    ^H 


U 


o 


£u 

I 


o         U 

18! 


H 


SHORT-CUT  PREPARATION  OF  MEALS      99 


O    »-i    P 


53    o 


05    rt.S 


PQ 


Cakes 
Tea 


SUNDAY 
Shrimps 


N 
e 


Oliv 
Coffee  Cre 
Lemonade, 


qj    O    <D 


cu  ba 

«->  rt 


6     JS 

0        *rt 

H     c^ 


T3    CU 

1.8 

£PH 
CO 


co       0 


RJ       o 


s  «s- 


rt       S^ 

c       ° 
PQ  ^ 
cu 


w 


8 


% 

U 


CU 

>H  'C 


•8 


6 


ioo  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

ahead  in  this  way,  but  it  is  planning  of  this  sort  that  helps 
to  relieve  the  monotony  of  housework. 

Before  commencing  to  prepare  any  dish,  be  sure  that 
all  the  ingredients  are  at  hand ;  then  read  the  recipe 
through  to  the  end,  because  the  way  a  dish  is  combined 
has  a  marked  influence  on  the  result.  If  a  cake  is  being 
made,  prepare  the  pan,  stand  the  shortening  to  soften 
and  in  the  meantime  get  together  the  remaining  ingre- 
dients, making  one  trip  to  the  ice-box  for  milk,  eggs 
and  butter,  then  sit  down  and  quickly  put  the  cake  to- 
gether. If  by  any  chance  the  kitchen  is  inconveniently 
arranged,  collect  the  ingredients  together  on  a  tray  and 
put  them  within  easy  reach  of  the  working  table.  Sift 
enough  flour  for  the  different  dishes  at  once ;  if  several 
are  being  made,  prepare  all  the  pans  together  at  the  same 
time,  and,  by  the  way,  cut  out,  in  some  spare  moments, 
enough  cake-pan  linings  and  little  squares  of  paper  for 
oiling  pans  to  last  for  weeks. 

Try  to  prepare  foods  which  may,  as  far  as  possible, 
have  the  same  cooking  medium.  If  brown  bread  is  to  be 
steamed,  the  rest  of  the  dinner  should  be  steamed  along 
with  it.  If  a  casserole  is  to  be  made,  do  the  rest  of  the 
cooking  for  the  meal  in  the  same  oven.  If  the  fireless 
cooker  is  at  work,  use  it  to  the  limit. 

One  of  the  greatest  difficulties  of  most  young  house- 
wives is  how  to  prepare  the  various  dishes  for  a  meal  so 
that  they  will  all  be  done  at  the  same  and  proper  time. 
One  long-suffering  young  husband  confided  to  me  that  it 
took  five  hours  for  them  to  eat  their  first  dinner,  there 
were  such  long  waits  between  the  courses !  The  meal 
should  be  planned  so  that  there  are  not  more  than  one 
or  two  dishes  calling  for  a  great  deal  of  preparation  in 
each  menu.  When  the  meal  is  planned,  sit  down  and 
think  out  the  dish  which  it  will  take  the  longest  time  to 
cook,  get  that  started  and  then  take  the  other  dishes  in 
rotation,  remembering  to  allow  time  enough  for  cold 
dishes  to  become  thoroughly  chilled.  Find  out  just  how 
long  it  will  take  to  set  the  table,  and  plan  between  the 
processes  to  do  "this  so  accurately  that  nothing  will  be 
forgotten. 

The  best  time  to  prepare  the  evening  dinner  is  largely 
in  the  morning  when  it  is  necessary  to  be  in  and  out  of 


SHORT-CUT  PREPARATION  OF  MEALS       101 

the  kitchen,  and  the  time  to  start  the  luncheon  is  while 
clearing  away  the  breakfast.  It  may  not  seem  possible 
to  carry  on  so  many  things  at  once,  and,  at  first,  the 
young  housekeeper  will  find  it  difficult,  but  it  is  only  by 
learning  to  do  several  things  at  a  time,  dove-tailing  them 
together,  that  she  can  learn  to  accomplish  a  great  deal  in 
a  given  time.  No  woman  should  be  a  slave  to  her  work 
and  yet  every  man  has  the  right  to  come  home  to  a  dainty, 
rested  and  attractive  wife.  The  only  way  in  which  this 
can  be  done  is  by  planning  the  meals  ahead  and  by  sys- 
tematic work.  % 

PRINCIPLES  OF  FIRELESS  COOKING 

Whatever  the  type  of  cooker,  there  are  several  under- 
lying principles  which  must  always  be  heeded  in  the 
carrying  on  of  successful  fireless  cookery:  First,  all 
utensils  to  be  used  for  boiling,  pot  roasting  or  stewing 
must  be  equipped  with  tightly  fitting  covers.  Second, 
any  food  to  be  boiled  must  be  cooked  for  at  least  ten 
minutes  before  putting  into  the  cooker.  Third,  if 
radiators  are  not  used  the  food  must  be  placed  in  the 
cooker  while  still  boiling.  Fourth,  the  cooker  must  be 
thoroughly  cleansed  with  soap  and  water,  and  dried  and 
aired  before  each  cooking  process,  as,  otherwise,  the 
odors  of  stale  food  will  affect  the  cooked  product.  Sixth, 
when  two  radiators  are  used  the  length  of  time  to  be 
allowed  is  the  same  for  baking  as  in  a  coal  range ;  for 
pot-roasting  or  braising  a  trifle  longer.  Seventh,  without 
the  radiators  the  time  for  boiling,  simmering  or  stewing 
is  doubled. 

Eighth,  foods  to  be  cooked  without  radiators  should  be 
in  quantities  of  at  least  two  quarts,  to  make  possible  the 
retention  of  heat,  otherwise  a  vessel  of  boiling  water 
should  be  put  in  the  cooker  at  the  same  time  to  form  the 
necessary  amount  of  heat. 

The  Possible  Saving  of  Fuel.  The  question  is  often 
asked  whether  or  not  the  fireless  cooker  is  really  practi- 
cal. If  intelligently  used,  there  can  be  no  doubt  about  it. 
From  the  standpoint  of  economy  in  money  the  saving  is 
considerable,  especially  when  used  to  supplement  a  gas 
or  oil  range.  When  gas  is  eighty  cents  per  thousand 
cubic  feet,  for  instance,  the  maximum  costs  per  hour  for 


102  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

operating  the  burners  are  as  follows :  a  large  top  burner, 
i]/2  cents;  a  small  top  burner,  il/z  cents;  the  oven,  3  cents 
a  burner,  or  6  cents  when  both  are  used,  A  good  sized 
pot  roast  should  be  cooked  on  a  range  from  five  to  six 
hours.  The  cost,  with  the  burner  reduced  almost  half, 
would  be  from  three  to  four  cents.  If  prepared  in  the 
cooker,  the  cost  is  reduced  to  the  length  of  time  it  takes 
to  heat  the  radiators.  It  takes  about  three  cents  worth 
of  gas  to  make  medium-sized  loaves  of  bread,  yet  they 
can  be  done  in  the  cooker  with  no  further  expenditure 
than  the  Cheating  of  the  radiators.  Boiled  cabbage  with 
salt  pork  is  a  cheap  dish  when  the  ingredients  are  con- 
sidered, but  it  becomes  decidedly  more  expensive  when 
the  cost  of  the  oil  or  gas  is  taken  into  account.  The 
same  is  true  of  casserole  dishes,  baked  beans,  coddled 
apples,  old-fashioned  baked  peaches  and  apple  sauce,  or 
stewed  dried  fruits  and  vegetables. 

The  cost,  then,  of  cooking  by  the  tireless  simmers  down 
to  the  length  of  time  needed  to  heat  the  radiators  and  to 
carry  on  any  preliminary  preparation.  The  following 
table  is  adapted  to  gas  range  heat,  but  in  using  oil,  alcohol, 
coal  or  wood  equally  good  results  may  be  obtained  by  in- 
creasing about  one-half  the  length  of  time  for  heating  the 
radiators.  The  most  accurate  method  for  testing  the 
heat  of  the  radiators  is  by  a  fireless  thermometer,  but,  if 
one  is  not  at  hand,  a  little  flour  sprinkled  on  the  stones 
will  give  the  approximate  heat. 

Time  Table  for  Heating  Radiators 

Boiling 12  minutes,  flour  pale  tan  color,  thermometer  250°. 

Radiators  of  this  temperature  should  be  used  for  boiling  cereals, 
meats,  fish,  vegetables  and  fruits. 

Slow  baking,  or  faster  boiling 

...  15  minutes,  flour  light  brown,  thermometer  325°  to  350°. 
Suitable  for  casseroles,  macaroni   and   cheese,   escalloped   cab- 
bage, sponge  cake,  fruit  cake,  steamed  puddings,  etc. 
Quick  baking.  .18  minutes,  flour  brown,  thermometer  375°  to  400°. 
Suitable  for  bread,  loaf  cakes,  baked  potatoes,  and  other  baked 

vegetables,  baked  beans,  biscuits,  fish,  meat  loaves,  etc. 
Roasting.  .20  minutes,  flour  dark  brown,  thermometer  425°  to  450°. 
Suitable  for  roasting  all  kincfs  of  meat. 

When  two  radiators  are  to  be  used,  the  most  econom- 
ical way  to  heat  them  is  to  place  one  on  top  of  the  other, 


SHORT-CUT  PREPARATION  OF  MEALS       103 

reversing  their  positions  twice  during  the  heating  process. 
It  takes  half  as  long  again  as  is  necessary  to  heat  one 
stone.  In  case  the  article  to  be  cooked  is  to  be  brought  to 
boiling  point,  the  best  way  to  do  it  is  to  place  it  on  top  of 
a  heating  stone,  so  that  the  one  burner  will  accomplish 
both  objects.  The  heating  stones  may  be  used  to  keep 
things  hot  for  dinner  when  a  hot  closet  is  not  available, 
and  many  a  food  which  must  be  re-heated  to  insure  keep- 
ing, as  soup  stock,  may  be  done  at  this  time.  In  camps 
and  summer  cottages  the  fuel  used  in  heating  the  stones 
may  do  double  duty  in  heating  water  for  dishes,  a  bit  of 
washing,  or  the  baby's  bath. 

CHOOSING  FIRELESS  UTENSILS 

As  in  all  types  of  cooking  the  choice  of  utensils  has 
much  to  do  with  success.  The  best  results  are  obtained 
by  the  use  of  aluminum  and  glass.  In  all  cases  where 
boiling  is  carried  on  the  covers  must  fit  tight;  the  triple 
utensil  is  indispensable,  for  it  makes  possible  the  cookery 
of  three  things  at  a  time  with  one  radiator.  For  baked 
beans,  escallops  and  casserole  dishes  the  covered  glass 
casseroles  are  invaluable.  At  the  same  time  still  more 
dish  washing  is  avoided.  If  the  saving  of  money  is  no 
object,  economy  of  time  appeals  to  most  women,  while  to 
others  a  cool  kitchen  is  of  paramount  importance.  It  is 
possible  absolutely  to  control  the  heat  in  the  cooker  so  that, 
when  anything  is  put  in,  one  need  not  fear  that  it  will 
burn,  provided  it  is  left  the  right  length  of  time.  Foods 
that  are  boiled,  stewed  or  braised  will  not  be  harmed  by  a 
little  over-cooking,  but  foods  that  are  baked,  as  bread,  cake 
and  the  like,  must  be  removed  at  the  end  of  the  necessary 
time,  or  they  will  burn,  for  the  fireless  cooker,  when  used 
with  the  heated  radiators,  is  merely  the  old  Dutch  oven 
brought  up  to  date.  If  the  general  principles  of  range 
cookery  are  understood,  a  few  attempts  will  suffice  to 
give  the  actual  time  needed  in  cooking  various  foods. 

HOW  TO  USE  THE  COOKER 

The  following  points,  however,  may  prove  helpful  to 
the  inexperienced.  The  obvious  way  to  cook  cereals  is 
over  night.  They  should  be  brought  to  the  boiling  point, 
boiled  fifteen  minutes,  and  put  into  the  cooker  together 


104  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

with  a  vessel  of  boiling  water,  boiling  prunes,  figs,  apple 
sauce,  or  any  other  food  which  demands  all-night  cook- 
ery. No  radiators  are  needed.  In  cooking  tough  meats, 
as  fowl,  rolled  flank  and  the  like,  better  results  are 
gained  by  using  one  radiator  at  250°  and  cooking  over 
night;  or  for  day  cooking  allow  six  to  seven  hours  with 
the  radiator  heated  to  325°.  Allow  four  hours  for  boil- 
ing steamed  pudding  or  breads,  in  quart-sized  moulds ; 
two  hours  for  pint  moulds.  In  this  case  the  pudding 
moulds  should  be  set  into  the  utensil,  half-filled  with 
cold  water,  brought  slowly  to  boiling  point  and  boiled 
for  ten  minutes,  before  putting  into  the  cooker.  Allow 
one  hour,  with  two  radiators,  for  baking  potatoes,  an 
hour  and  a  half  for  cooking  onions  or  turnips  or  cabbage, 
fifteen  minutes  to  the  pound  with  two  radiators  for  roast- 
ing beef  or  lamb,  and  twenty  minutes  to  the  pound  for 
pork  and  veal.  For  soup  stock,  stews,  corned  beef  and 
pot  roasts  of  any  desired  meats,  allow  from  five  to  six 
hours.  One  hour  is  sufficient  to  bake  three-quarter- 
pound  loaves  of  bread,  twenty-five  minutes  for  biscuits, 
from  fifty  minutes  to  an  hour  for  a  medium-sized  loaf  of 
cake,  and  the  same  length  of  time  as  is  allowed  in  the 
oven  should  be  given  to  pies. 

If  a  very  large  loaf  of  cake  is  to  be  baked,  better  re- 
sults will  be  obtained  if  the  second  stone  is  not  put  in 
place  for  fifteen  minutes  after  the  cake  is  started.  All 
articles  to  be  baked  or  boiled  must  be  set  upon  a  wire 
trivet,  rather  than  upon  the  stone  itself,  to  prevent  lia- 
bility of  scorching.  4 

The  fireless  cooker  is  just  as  capable  of  retaining  cold 
as  it  is  heat.  To  this  end  it  is  invaluable  for  the  freezing 
of  mousses  or  parfaits  —  that  is  ices  which  can  be  pre- 
pared without  stirring.  To  a  quart  mould  of  mousse, 
four  pounds  of  cracked  ice  and  an  equal  amount  of  salt 
should  be  added.  Once  packed  in  a  fireless  utensil  and 
put  in  the  cooker,  it  may  be  entirely  forgotten  till  serv- 
ing time,  as  there  will  be  no  necessity  for  repacking. 
About  four  pounds  less  ice  is  needed  when  the  fireless  is 
used.  It  may  also  be  used  to  equal  advantage  for  pack- 
ing cream  that  is  to  be  moulded  or  even  kept  over  night. 

There  is  no  doubt  but  that  too  much  magic  has  been 
ascribed  to  the  fireless  cooker,  for  there  are  times  when 


SHORT-CUT  PREPARATION  OF  MEALS       105 

it  is  much  more  convenient  and  quite  as  inexpensive  to 
cook  by  the  ordinary  methods.  It  is  often  said,  for  in- 
stance, that  the  whole  meal  can  be  put  in  to  cook  and  that 
the  housewife  can  leave  for  an  afternoon  of  shopping  or 
pleasure  and  will  find  her  dinner  ready  on  her  return. 
This  can  be  done  only  if  foods  suited  to  this  kind  of 
cookery  are  used,  and  they  must  be  grouped  according  to 
the  length  of  time  it  takes  the  "  longest  "  one  to  cook.  To 
illustrate :  It  would  not  be  possible  to  put  in  a  pot  roast  of 
beef,  potatoes  and  peas  at  the  same  time,  for  the  potatoes 
and  peas  would  be  sadly  over-cooked  by  the  time  the  meat 
was  done.  In  this  case  cabbage,  cooked  by  a  method  de- 
manding long  cookery,  could  be  served  as  a  vegetable,  the 
potatoes  would  have  to  be  fried  at  the  last  minute,  or  re- 
heated in  some  other  way,  rather  than  being  prepared  in 
the  cooker,  and  the  dessert  could  be  a  pudding,  as  steamed 
whole  wheat,  with  dates,  demanding  about  five  hours' 
steaming. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  have  a  separate  list  of  recipes  for 
fireless  cooking.  All  casseroles,  stews,  soups,  all  vege- 
tables needing  long-stewing  or  baking,  all  fruits,  both 
dried  and  fresh,  needing  long  cooking,  all  cereals,  all 
braised  and  boiled  meats,  or  fish,  and  all  steamed  breads 
or  puddings  are  well  adapted  to  this  method. 

CASSEROLE  COOKING 

Most  American  housewives  understand  too  little  about 
the  possibilities  of  cooking  in  the  oven.  The  mind  turns 
instantly  to  the  casserole  and  the  tougher  cuts  of  meat, 
but  these  by  no  means  exhaust  the  resources  of  the  oven. 
There  is  no  better  way  to  make  a  chicken  or  other  tender 
meat  "  go  far  "  than  en  casserole ;  there  is  no  more  de- 
licious way  to  cook  fish,  game,  both  dried  and  fresh 
vegetables,  puddings,  many  cereals,  and  dried  and  fresh 
fruits,  than  in  the  oven. 

Utensils 

There  are  many  utensils  adapted  to  oven  cookery,  the 
most  familiar  being  those  of  earthenware,  which  can  be 
obtained  for  almost  any  price,  and  in  many  desirable 
shapes  and  sizes.  If  these  are  plunged  into  a  kettle  of 
cold  water,  brought  slowly  to  the  boil,  and  then  boiled  for 


io6  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

five  minutes  before  using,  they  will  give  good  service; 
otherwise,  they  are  apt  to  crack.  The  old-time  Boston 
bean  pot  is  an  excellent  utensil  for  cooking  meats  which 
are  cut 'in  comparatively  small  pieces,  as  well  as  fruits 
and  dried  vegetables,  while  the  old-fashioned  blue-and- 
white  stew-pot,  which  can  be  obtained  in  almost  any  size, 
is  especially  suitable  for  use  in  large  families,  and  is  in- 
expensive. Attractive  utensils  of  this  kind  are  made  of 
the  new  cooking  glass;  they  are  durable  and  very  prac- 
tical. At  the  same  time  they  are  the  most  easily  cleaned 
of  all  oven- ware  and  the  cooking  can  be  carried  on  in  a 
fourth  less  time  than  usual. 

Whereas  it  is  necessary  to  use  a  covered  casserole  for 
all  long  processes,  various  open  dishes  are  especially 
adapted  to'  the  cookery  of  quickly-prepared  foods.  An 
earthen  or  glass  baking  platter,  for  instance,  makes  pos- 
sible the  preparation,  without  odor,  of  fish  and  many 
meats  and  vegetables ;  nor  do  they  need  special  attention 
after  they  are  in  the  oven.  As  the  food  should  be  served 
in  the  dish  in  which  it  is  cooked,  this  is  a  real  saving  in 
dish  washing.  The  ramekin,  little  sister  of  the  casserole, 
is  not  only  inexpensive,  but  is  particularly  useful  for  indi- 
vidual service,  not  only  of  savory  dishes  and  vegetables, 
but  of  desserts.  The  family  may  tire,  for  example,  of 
creamed  corn,  but  if  it  is  combined  with  a  little  left-over 
veal  or  chicken,  well-seasoned,  strewed  with  bread  crumbs, 
and  served  en  ramekin,  it  becomes  a  ",new  dish."  The 
youngsters  may  often  rebel  at  such  a  plebeian  dessert  as 
bread  pudding,  but  if  prepared  in  ramekins  with  a  little 
meringue,  topped  with  currant  jelly,  it  becomes  "  some- 
thing new." 

Time  of  Cookery 

Most  women  seem  to  think  that  casserole  cooking 
necessitates  a  great  deal  of  trouble  in  preparation,  and  a 
long  time  in  the  oven.  The  time  consumed  depends  en- 
tirely upon  the  article  of  food.  Boston  baked  beans,  for 
example,  take  about  eight  hours  in  a  very  slow  oven ;  a 
three-and-a-half-pound  chicken,  cut  as  for  fricassee,  takes 
about  an  hour  and  a  half  in  a  moderate  oven,  but  it  needs 
no  attention  while  cooking,  and  when  it  is  removed  is 
ready  to  be  put  on  the  table.  If  a  coal  stove  is  used,  the 
oven  is  ready  for  a  casserole  dish  at  almost  any  time  of 


SHORT-CUT  PREPARATION  OF  MEALS      107 

the  day.  If  gas,  electricity  or  kerosene  is  burned,  the 
oven  can  be  made  to  do  double  duty  if  some  other  dishes, 
which  need  a  like  temperature,  are  prepared  at  the  same 
time.  To  illustrate :  If  a  casserole  of  lamb  is  to  be  served 
for  a  six-o'clock  dinner,  it  would  be  put  in  at  four  o'clock, 
and  a  pan  of  baked  apples,  and  the  carrots,  parsnips  or 
other  vegetables  could  be  cooked  along  with  it.  As  any 
casserole  can  be  prepared  in  the  morning  for  cooking 
for  the  evening  dinner,  or  the  day  before  if  the  dinner  is 
at  noon,  this  is  a  great  preventive  of  last  minute  work. 

MENUS  FOR  OVEN  MEALS 

The  following  are  two  menus  for  luncheon  and  dinner, 
which  may  be  termed  "  oven  meals,"  as  nearly  all  the 
foods  can  be  cooked  in  the  oven  with  the  same  heat. 

A  "  Company  "  Luncheon 

Baked  Oysters  in  Shell 
Casserole  of  Veal,  Mexican  Style 

Buttered  Potatoes 

Tomatoes  in  Aspic,  with  Lettuce  and  Mayonnaise 
Coddled  Pears  with  Whipped  Cream 

Sponge  Cakes 
Bon-bons  Coffee 

A  Home  Dinner 

Clear  Tomato  Soup 
Casserole  of  Duck,  Chicken,  Lamb  or  Beef 

Baked  Potatoes 
Sliced  Onions  in  Broth 

Salad  of  Shaved  Cabbage,  Shredded  Peppers  and  Romaine    . 
Peach  Tapioca  with  Meringue  (in  ramekins) 
Coffee 

In  the  first  menu  the  veal  needs  about  an  hour  and  a 
half's  cooking ;  the  potatoes  an  hour's ;  the  coddled  pears 
two  hours';  the  sponge  cake  twenty  minutes'  and  the 
oysters  ten  minutes'.  Obviously  the  pears  can  go  in 
first,  the  veal  following,  the  sponge  cakes  can  be  baked  as 
soon  as  they  are  put  together.  There  will  then  be  room 
for  the  potatoes,  and  the  oysters  can  be  put  in  "  at  the 
last  minute." 

In  the  second  menu  the  duck  and  tapioca  should  be  put 
in  at  the  same  time,  the  onions  a  half  hour  later,  the 


io8  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

potatoes  following  about  an  hour  before  dinner  is  to  be 
served. 

Thickening  the  Casserole 

If  desired,  any  meat  casserole  can  be  thickened  with 
rice,  ground  dried  bread  crumbs,  barley,  macaroni,  or 
spaghetti.  The  amount  of  raw  rice  to  use  to  a  quart  of 
liquid  is  one-fourth  of  a  cupful;  the  amount  of  crumbs, 
from  a  half  to  three-fourths  of  a  cupful,  according  to 
the  dryness  of  the  bread,  and  of  raw  macaroni  or  spaghetti 
about  a  cupful.  In  some  cases  it  is  advisable  to  incor- 
porate the  vegetable  with  the  meat;  for  instance,  a  plain 
chicken  casserole  can  be  made  in  which  the  asparagus  is 
combined  with  the  chicken,  being  arranged  in  layers  and 
thickened  with  rice.  In  case  an  especially  abundant  dish 
is  desired,  plenty  of  carrots,  turnips  and  onions,  together 
with  beef,  the  whole  being  thickened  with  barley,  is  es- 
pecially satisfactory. 

Much  has  been  said  about  the  desirability  of  the  cas- 
serole as  a  cooking  medium  for  tough  meats.  Therein 
lies  one  of  its  greatest  possibilities,  for  the  meat  benefits 
not  only  by  the  long  cooking,  but  by  the  steam  which  is 
generated  in  the  tightly-closed  utensil.  However,  the 
liquid  surrounding  the  meat  should  never  boil ;  unless  it  is 
kept  at  a  gentle  simmer,  the  result  will  be  disappointing. 
In  case  the  casserole  seems  too  dry,  a  little  stock  or  water 
may  be  added  from  time  to  time  during  the  cooking. 

Left-Overs  and  Casseroles 

(  Perhaps  the  woman  who  has  learned  to  cook  by  im- 
agination will  find. the  casserole  more  useful  than  the  one 
who  cooks  altogether  by  recipes,  for  the  larder  often  con- 
tains various  left-overs  and  odd  vegetables  which  will  fit 
into  a  delicious  casserole,  better  than  into  any  other  dish. 
For  instance,  the  woman  who  uses  ham  often  finds  scraps 
left  over  from  cutting,  bits  of  meat  which  have  adhered 
to  the  bone,  and  the  end  which  is  unavailable  for  slicing. 
Often,  she  will  utilize  these  strips  for  sandwiches, 
creamed  ham,  or  an  omelet  for  breakfast  or  luncheon, 
whereas  they  could  be  made  into  a  much  more  substantial 
dish  well-suited  to  a  home  dinner.  I  discovered  this 
while  keeping  house  on  a  farm  ten  miles  from  a  railroad, 
when  ham  was  a  staple  weekly  article,  and  the  garden  in 


SHORT-CUT  PREPARATION  OF  MEALS       109 

summer  and  the  vegetable-cellar  in  winter  were  my  chief 
assets.  I  used  to  oil  my  largest  bean-pot  with  ham  fat, 
put  in  a  layer  of  sliced  turnip,  then  a  little  minced  ham, 
some  parnsips,  and  more  ham,  a  layer  of  sliced  raw 
potatoes,  some  minced  onions  and  shredded  cabbage,  in- 
terspersing every  layer  with  ham,  a  sprinkling  of  flour 
and  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Sometimes  a  few  parboiled 
beans  were  added,  the  ingredients  depending  upon  the 
season  of  the  year.  The  whole  was  barely  covered  with 
ham  liquor,  or  stock,  and  baked  very  slowly  for  at  least 
three  hours. 

Not  long  ago  I  tested  a  recipe  in  which  beef  tongue 
was  used,  but  found  myself  confronted  with  the  root  end 
for  utilization.  Into  the  casserole  went  these  bits  of 
meat,  together  with  some  chopped  carrots,  minced  onion, 
chopped  green  pepper,  tomato,  salt,  pepper,  a  few  spices, 
dry  bread  crumbs  for  thickening  and  a  little  of  the  tongue 
liquor.  It  was  good  casserole,  but  one  truly  inspired  by 
imagination  and  necessity ! 

Suitable  Casserole  Combinations 

It  is  impossible  to  give  all  the  combinations  of  meats 
and  vegetables  that  are  suitable  to  casserole  use,  but,  as  a 
general  rule,  it  may  be  stated  that  the  heavier  vegetables 
of  pronounced  flavor,  such  as  tomatoes,  onions,  carrots, 
turnips,  parsnips  and  the  like  may  be  used  with  such 
heavy  meats  as  beef,  pork  and  ham,  while  the  lighter 
vegetables  —  peas,  asparagus,  string  beans  and  corn  — 
are  better  suited  to  meats  like  chicken,  pigeons,  lamb, 
veal  and  guinea-fowl.  This  does  not  mean  that  onions, 
tomatoes  and  green  peppers  should  be  entirely  omitted 
from  the  casseroles  of  lighter  meats,  but  that  they  should 
be  used  more  sparingly,  only  to  assist  in  creating  the  fillip 
which  will  whet  the  appetite. 

Seasoning  Casseroles 

The  seasonings  have  a  great  deal  to  do  with  the  success 
of  the  casserole  whenever  a  "  made  dish  "  is  being  pre- 
pared. The  touch  of  mint  in  the  casserole  of  duck,  for 
instance,  lifts  the  dish  into  the  epicurean.  However, 
those  who  do  not  like  highly-seasoned  dishes  will  find  the 
casserole  of  inestimable  help  in  plain  cookery.  A  fowl 


i io  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

disjointed  as  for  plain  fricassee,  salted  and  peppered, 
rolled  in  flour,  browned  or  not,  according  to  whether  a 
white  or  brown  result  is  desired,  packed  in  the  casserole, 
covered  with  hot  water,  and  baked  for  three  to  four 
hours,  according  to  the  age,  makes  possible  a  dish  in 
which  all  the  chicken  flavor  is  retained,  and  which  de- 
mands almost  no  attention  from  start  to  finish.  A  three- 
pound  chicken  prepared  by  the  same  method  will  cook  to 
.perfection  in  fifty  minutes  to  an  hour  in  a  glass  cas- 
serole. 

Few  people  are  conversant  with  the  delicious  flavor  of 
properly  cooked  fish,  because  it  is  usually  fried.  More- 
over, most  American  housewives  are  prone  to  accept  fish 
which  is  tainted.  Just  as  soon  as  women  realize  that  they 
control,  by  the  law  of  supply  and  demand,  the  sale  of 
absolutely  pure  food,  the  smell  of  strong  fish  will  dis- 
appear from  our  markets  and  homes.  The  woman  who 
lives  at  some  distance  from  the  market  cannot  usually 
procure  fresh  fish  unless  she  is  fortunate  enough  to  have 
a  sportsman  in  the  family,  but  for  her  there  are  many 
varieties  both  salted  and  smoked.  Properly  treated,  they 
are  almost  as  good  as  when  fresh.  Salt  cod,  smoked 
halibut  and  salmon  lend  themselves  admirably  to  casser- 
ole cookery.  Salt  mackerel,  white  fish,  bloaters,  as  well 
as  cod,  salmon  and  halibut,  can  be  used  to  most  excellent 
advantage  in  the  low,  open  casseroles,  sometimes  known 
as  au  gratin  dishes,  or  on  fireproof  platters. 

Cooking  Vegetables  en  Casserole 

It  is  sometimes  advisable  to  cook  turnips,  parsnips, 
salsify,  or  chestnuts  en  casserole.  In  this  case  they 
should  be  prepared  as  for  boiling,  arranged  in  the  cas- 
serole, covered  with  boiling  stock,  and  cooked  till  tender, 
about  three  hours  for  the  chestnuts  and  two  for  the  vege- 
tables. The  latter  should  be  cut  in  thin  slices  before 
cooking,  and  should  be  covered  with  beef  stock,  while 
the  chestnuts  should  be  cooked  in  chicken  or  veal  stock. 

Cooking  Fruits  en  Casserole 

A  specialty  of  a  well-known  tea-room  is  old-fashioned 
red  apple  sauce,  served  with  whipped  cream.  It  is  rich 
and  of  beautiful  color,  as,  much  unlike  ordinary  apple 


SHORT-CUT  PREPARATION  OF  MEALS   in 

sauce  as  can  be  imagined.  Inquiry  brought  forth  the 
fact  that  it  was  baked  in  the  bean-pot,  sliced  apples  and 
sugar  being  put  in  alternately,  a  little  water  added,  and 
the  whole  cooked  at  least  eight  hours  in  a  slow  oven  or 
fireless  cooker.  Pears  and  peaches  may  be  cooked  in  a 
similar  way,  only,  instead  of  being  sliced,  they  should  be 
pared,  halved  and  the  seeds  removed,  and  they  should 
not  be  stirred  during  the  cooking.  The  various  dried 
fruits  may  also  be  baked  to  good  advantage.  They 
should  be  washed  thoroughly,  soaked  over  night  in  water 
to  cover,  the  proper  amount  of  sugar  added,  together 
with  any  desired  flavoring,  and  the  baking  done  very 
slowly,  the  time  varying  from  three  to  six  hours,  accord- 
ing to  the  quantity.  Figs  need  lemon  juice  and  rind,  and 
may  be  served  half  cold  from  the  casserole  with  a  deco- 
ration of  marshmallows. 

Various  dishes  well  suited  to  casserole  cookery  will  be 
found  in  the  chapters  on  meats,  fish,  fruits  and  vegetables. 

COOKING  BY  STEAM 

The  reduction  of  heat  means  the  reduction  of  fuel. 
Every  time  a  food  can  be  adapted  to  top-of-the-stove- 
cookery,  instead  of  the  oven,  there  is  a  distinct  saving, 
whether  the  cooking  be  by  gas,  kerosene  or  electricity. 

With  gas  and  kerosene  stoves  cheap  in  price,  and  with 
gas  plates  and  small  kerosene  stoves  still  cheaper,  there  is 
no  excuse  for  any  woman  saying,  "  I  cannot  afford  this 
kind  of  cookery."  As  a  basis  there  must  be  two  burners 
for  a  small  family  of  three  or  four  members,  more 
burners  for  the  large  family.  But  here,  as  in  everything 
else  connected  with  the  furnishing  of  the  kitchen,  too 
much  space  and  too  large  quantities  lead  to  carelessness, 
and,  in  this  case,  waste  of  fuel. 

The  equipment  for  the  cookery  may  be  as  inexpensive  as 
one  desires,  but,  if  possible,  it  pays  to  buy  the  best  quality 
in  everything.  The  first  purchase  should  be  an  adequate 
steamer,  the  size  depending  upon  the  family,  but  it  should 
be  large  enough  to  make  possible  the  cookery  of  several 
things  at  a  time.  There  is  nothing  better  in  this  line  than 
the  old-fashioned  square  cooker,  equipped  with  shelves 
and  a  whistle  which  tells  when  water  is  needed.  This 
cooker  or  steamer  can  be  found  in  any  large  house-fur- 


H2  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

nishing  store,  from  about  five  dollars  and  upwards,  ac- 
cording to  the  grade  of  materials  used.  There  are  less 
expensive  steamers,  round  in  shape,  which  are  equipped 
with  shelves,  and  which  can  be  used  with  good  results,  if 
one  is  careful  to  put  the  food  demanding  longest  cookery 
on  the  bottom  shelf,  and  the  one  which  will  be  done  first 
on  the  top  shelf  to  make  removal  easy.  Then  there  is  a 
good  combination,  aluminum  steamer,  which  consists  of 
a  base  that  can  act  as  a  roasting  pan,  a  top  with  shelves 
on  which  the  steaming  is  done,  and  a  lid  on  which  cookies 
can  be  baked.  For  short  time  steaming  this  gives  ex- 
cellent results,  but  it  is  not  so  good  in  the  cookery  of 
things  demanding  a  long  time,  because  the  base-pan  is 
shallow,  so  that  the  water  evaporates  quickly. 

These  utensils  are  adapted  only  to  steaming,  which 
means  that  the  oven  must  be  used  for  baking.  There  is, 
however,  a  steamer  on  the  market  in  which  either  one  of 
these  processes  may  be  carried  on.  It  is  a  pressure 
cooker,  made  of  iron  or  cast  aluminum  and  fitted  with  a 
cover  which  clamps  tightly  into  position.  It  is  equipped 
with  a  valve,  which  makes  possible  the  emission  of  steam 
before  removing  the  lid,  thus  avoiding  the  possibility  of 
even  a  slight  scald,  and  it  is  so  constructed  that  there  is 
no  danger  of  an  explosion,  no  matter  how  much  steam  is 
generated,  for  when  the  pressure  reaches  twenty-five 
pounds,  an  automatic  spring  valve  releases  the  steam.  It 
takes  only  a  few  moments  to  bring  this  to  the  temperature 
of  the  oven,  and  bread,  cake,  meat,  or  whatever  is  to  be 
baked,  may  be  put  in  a  pan,  set  on  a  rack  and  completed 
as  in  the  oven,  for  the  heavy  heat  makes  .possible  an  even 
radiation.  In  pot-roasting  or  braising,  the  meat  is  simply 
seared  in  a  little  extra  fat,  put  on  the  rack,  and  a  very 
little  water,  plus  the  other  desired  seasonings,  is  added. 
For  soup  stock  it  is  invaluable,  only  in  this  case,  as  in  all 
others,  where  water  is  added,  care  must  be  taken  not  to 
put  in  too  much,  as  there  is  very  little  evaporation.  In 
case  it  is  desirable  to  steam  a  pudding  and  two  or  three 
vegetables  at  once,  a  small  amount  of  water  is  put  in  the 
bottom,  the  rack  is  adjusted,  and  the  pudding  in  its  mould, 
together  with  the  vegetables  in  their  various  utensils,  may 
be  put  in  the  cooker  together.  When  the  water  is  once 
boiling,  the  gas-flame  may  be  reduced  one-half.  Some- 


AN  ADEQUATE  STEAMER 


SHORT-CUT  PREPARATION  OF  MEALS       113 

times  one  desires  to  pot-roast  veal  or  lamb.  In  this  case 
the  meat  is  started  at  the  proper  time  and  the  other  vege- 
tables are  added  according  to  the  time  it  will  take  them 
to  cook. 

The  general  type  of  utensils  best  suited  to  cookery  by 
steam,  or  in  these  improvised  ovens,  is  the  one  which  will 
absorb  the  heat  most  quickly,  or  the  one  which,  when  the 
heat  is  once  absorbed,  will  hold  it  longest.  Aluminum  is 
the  best  example  of  the  first  type,  and  the  new  glass  cook- 
ing ware  of  the  second.  This  glassware  may  be  used  for 
almost  anything  which  is  to  be  steamed :  for  instance,  pos- 
sibly peas  are  to  be  cooked  in  this  way  —  they  can  be  put 
into  a  glass  utensil  suited  to  the  service,  a  little  water,  a 
few  grains  of  sugar  and  a  bit  of  butter  may  be  added, 
and  the  whole  steamed,  covered  or  not,  as  desired.  Pos- 
sibly swordfish  is  to  figure  as  the  main  dish  of  a  dinner. 
In  this  case  the  fish  may  be  put  in  a  suitable  utensil, 
dotted  with  butter,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  dash  of 
lemon  juice  may  be  added,  and  the  whole  steamed  until 
tender  and  flaky,  about  thirty  minutes  for  fish  cut  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  thick.  If  closely  covered,  other  things, 
no  matter  how  delicate,  may  be  cooked  in  the  same  steamer 
with  it,  without  absorbing  the  odors.  If  one  only  thinks, 
it  is  surprising  to  find  how  many  foods  may  be  steamed  to 
good  advantage. 

Most  of  us,  when  preparing  a  cereal,  correctly  start  it 
over  the  direct  heat,  and,  after  fifteen  minutes,  set  it  into 
a  double  boiler  to  cook  the  remaining  time,  usually  from 
one  to  four  hours,  according  to  the  kind  that  is  being 
cooked.  At  the  same  time  it  is  necessary  to  replenish  the 
cooking  water  frequently.  There  is  no  reason  why  the 
cereal  cannot  be  started  as  usual,  the  cooking  being  com- 
pleted in  the  steamer  along  with  some  prunes,  steamed 
apple  sauce,  an  old  fowl  which  demands  long  cookery  to 
make  it  tender,  a  meat  loaf  or  fish  for  the  next  day,  or 
even  some  potatoes  for  the  supper  salad.  There  is  no 
better  way  to  save  time  and  expense  in  cookery  than  to 
learn  to  do  two  or  more  things  at  once. 

In  case  a  stove  is  not  equipped  with  a  warming  closet, 
the  steamer  may  be  used  for  this  purpose  whenever  hot 
dishes  are  needed,  and,  if  some  members  of  the  family  or 
guests  are  late  in  coming  to  a  meal,  the  foods  may  be  kept 


H4  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

hot  in  the  steamer,  with  no  more  deterioration  than  in  a 
hotel  steam  table. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  use  specific  recipes  for  steam 
cooking,  any  of  those  which  are  in  ordinary  use  being 
adaptable,  with  this  exception.  In  steaming  puddings  in- 
stead of  baking  them,  it  is  necessary  to  add  a  little  more 
flour  or  bread  crumbs,  according  to  the  type  of  puddings 
to  be  made.  Oftentimes,  if  one  desires  a  brown  dish,  as 
in  making  escalloped  tomatoes  or  fish,  the  actual  cookery 
may  be  accomplished  in  the  steamer,  the  dish  being  set 
for  a  minute  or  two  under  the  gas  flame  to  brown  over. 
However,  the  demand  for  this  browned  appearance  is 
largely  esthetic,  and  may  be  gained  by  strewing  over  a 
few  fried  bread  crumbs,  or  the  dish  may  be  garnished 
with  a  little  finely- minced  parsley,  a  few  sprays  of  water- 
cress, a  little  sliced,  hard-cooked  egg,  some  finely-minced 
celery  with  tips,  a  few  slices  of  tomato,  some  pickles  cut 
fan-shape,  a  whole  olive  or  two,  etc.,  according  to  the 
kind  of  dish  that  is  being  prepared. 

The  following  tables  give  a  list  of  suggestions  center- 
ing around  standard  recipes  of  foods  that  may  be 
steamed : 

Fruits:  Apples,  pears,  peaches,  cherries,  blueberries, 
blackberries,  raspberries.  If  the  fruit  is  desired  whole, 
make  a  sugar  syrup  of  one  cupful  of  sugar  to  one-half 
cupful  of  water,  boiling  them  together  for  five  minutes. 
Pour  this  over  the  prepared  fruit  and  steam  until  tender. 
Liquid,  or  powdered,  spices,  or  lemon  juice  may  be  added 
as  desired.  Brown  sugar  is  delicious  with  pears.  If  the 
fruit  is  desired  broken  up,  it  should  be  occasionally  stirred 
during  the  cookery. 

Meats:  Old  fowl,  steam  five  hours  and  remove  the 
skin  before  slicing.  Chicken,  brown  in  fat  and  steam  an 
hour.  Shoulder  of  lamb,  brown  in  fat  and  steam  an 
hour  and  a  half.  It  should  be  boned  and  rolled.  Pork 
chops,  brown  quickly  in  fat  and  steam  an  hour.  Rump  of 
veal,  brown  together  with  onions  and  carrots,  and  steam 
an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours,  etc.  All  seasonings 
should  be  added  when  the  meat  is  put  in  to  steam,  and,  if 
possible,  the  meat  should  be  in  a  covered  utensil.  All 
kinds  of  meat  loaves  may  also  be  steamed. 

Fish:     Salmon,   haddock,   codfish,   lake  trout,  sword- 


SHORT-CUT  PREPARATION  OF  MEALS       115 

fish,  or  bluefish.  The  thicker  fish,  as  salmon,  may  be 
cut  in  steaks,  seasoned  and  cooked,  dotted  with  bits  of 
butter,  as  described,  or  whole  fish  of  more  than  three 
pounds  may  be  laid  in  the  utensil  together  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pickle  spice,  a  little  vinegar,  salt,  pepper  and 
water,  and  may  be  cooked  in  this.  All  kinds  of  fish 
loaves  may  also  be  steamed. 

Vegetables:  Corn  in  the  husk,  peas,  beans,  succotash, 
corn  in  milk,  spinach  and  other  greens,  with  or  without 
bacon  or  salt  pork,  turnips  in  broth,  if  desired,  carrots, 
carrots  and  peas  combined,  whole  tomatoes,  summer 
squash,  winter  squash,  cauliflower,  cabbage,  etc.  The 
vegetables  should  be  seasoned  before  putting  on  to  cook, 
with  the  exception  of  green  corn. 

Desserts:  All  kinds  of  fruit  bettys,  tapioca,  corn 
starch  and  cereal  puddings,  cottage  pudding,  bread  pud- 
ding, all  kinds  of  custard  mixtures  which  it  may  be  de- 
sirable to  solidify.  Chocolate  puffs  made  of  any  good 
chocolate-cake  mixture  plus  a  little  more  flour,  all  kinds 
of  fruit  dumplings,  and  the  usual  boiled  puddings  made 
of  stale  cake,  stale  bread,  suet,  etc. 

Breads:  Boston  brown  bread  and  all  allied  mixtures, 
as  steamed  corn  meal  bread,  steamed  whole  wheat  and 
date  bread,  prune  bread,  steamed  nut  bread,  etc. 


CHAPTER  X 
THE  SERVICE  OF  HOME  AND  COMPANY  MEALS 

SERVING  HOME  MEALS  WITHOUT  A  MAID 

It  is  not  necessary  to  possess  wealth  in  order  to  set 
an  attractive  table.  The  background  is  the  table  itself. 
If  it  has  a  polished  top,  it  is  often  more  convenient  to 
use  runners  or  doilies,  instead  of  tablecloths.  They  may 
be  used  at  all  three  meals,  although  to  be  strictly  correct 
they  should  appear  only  at  breakfast,  luncheon  or  supper. 
If  doilies  or  runners  are  used,  the  table-top  should  be 
waxed,  not  varnished,  as  the  former  finish  is  more  dur- 
able, may  be  easily  renewed,  and  does  not  show  the  marks 
of  hot  dishes  or  liquids  that  may  be  spilled. 

Runners  should  be  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  in 
width,  and  should  be  long  enough  to  extend  to  the  edge 
of  the  table.  In  setting  the  table  for  four,  two  runners 
are  used.  In  setting  the  table  for  six,  a  long  runner  is 
placed  lengthwise  of  the  table,  and  two  shorter  ones  are 
laid  across  it. 

Choosing  the  Linen 

All-white  doilies  and  runners  are  more  satisfactory 
for  hard  use  than  colored  ones.  If  doilies  are  to  be  used 
constantly,  choose  several  sets  alike,  so  that  if  some  of 
the  pieces  are  soiled  there  will  be  fresh  ones  of  the  same 
design  to  replace  them.  For  practical  use  a  center  doily, 
about  eighteen  inches,  and  plate  doilies,  from  nine  to 
twelve  inches  in  diameter,  are  all  that  are  necessary. 
Small  doilies  may  be  provided  for  the  tumblers,  if  desired. 

For  dinner  it  is  customary  to  use  a  full-sized  cloth 
over  a  silence  cloth.  But  the  woman  who  has  to  count 
laundry  should  feel  at  liberty  to  use  on  the  dinner  table 
whatever  covering  she  wishes.  It  is  surely  easier  to  wash 
out  a  doily  at  a  time  than  a  whole  tablecloth.  But  if  a 
cloth  effect  is  desired,  a  yard,  or  a  yard  and  a  quarter 
square  of  plain  linen  or  damask  may  be  bought  ready- 

116 


HOME  AND  COMPANY  MEALS          117 

made,  or  may  be  fashioned  at  home,  and  used  for  the  din- 
ner table.  In  case  colored  squares  are  desired,  there  is 
nothing  prettier  than  the  Japanese  cloths,  which  may  be 
obtained  from  fifty  cents  up. 

The  China,  Silver  and  Glass 

There  is  some  excuse  for  cheap  dishes,  but  there  is  no 
excuse  for  handleless  cups,  and  cracked  or  nicked  plates 
and  saucers,  for,  besides  being  unsightly,  they  are  un- 
sanitary and  carriers  of  disease.  Dishes  are  only  a  back- 
ground for  food,  so  quiet,  simple  patterns  should  be 
chosen.  Well-polished  glass  lends  an  atmosphere  to  the 
table  that  almost  nothing  else  can  give,  and  unpretentious 
glass  dishes  may  be  made  to  look  very  attractive.  Plain 
tumblers  for  water  may  be  obtained  almost  anywhere  for 
five  cents  apiece,  and  small  glass  bowls  and  cream  pitch- 
ers, small  dishes  for  relishes,  lemonade  cups  and  simple 
sherbet  glasses  may  be  purchased  at  correspondingly  low 
prices. 

The  silver  should  be  the  best  one  can  afford,  but  no 
matter  how  beautiful  it  may  be  the  whole  effect  of  the 
table  will  be  marred,  if  it  is  not  well-polished.  It  takes 
considerable  time  to  clean  silver,  if  it  is  allowed  to  be- 
come tarnished;  but  if  it  is  always  washed  in  water  con- 
taining a  little  ammonia,  and  if  badly  tarnished  pieces  are 
cleaned  at  once,  the  discoloration  is  not  difficult  to  re- 
move. In  case  the  plate  wears  off,  any  article  may  be  re- 
plated  at  a  reasonable  price. 

Setting  the  Table 

The  table  service  is  greatly  facilitated  by  placing  all 
the  silver  used  by  each  individual  at  his  or  her  place. 
The  various  articles  should  be  arranged  in  the  order  of 
use,  the  spoons  and  knives  at  the  right,  and  the  forks  at 
the  left  in  the  order  of  use  from  outside  toward  the 
plate.  If  space  is  limited  and  the  meal  is  informal  the 
teaspoons  may  be  placed  above  the  plate  but  this  is  not 
strictly  "  good  form."  Salt  and  pepper  shakers  should 
be  provided  for  each  two  people.  Water  glasses  belong 
at  the  tips  of  the  knives,  and  butter  dishes,  or  bread  and 
butter  plates  with  butter  spreaders,  should  be  placed  just 


ii8  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

above  the  forks.     The  napkins  should  be  folded  square, 
and  laid  at  the  left  of  the  forks. 

How  to  Cook  and  Serve 

In  case  the  mother  cooks  and  serves  the  meal,  as  much 
food  as  possible  should  be  placed  on  the  table  without 
overcrowding  and  without  mixing  the  various  courses. 
For  instance,  suppose  that  breakfast  consists  of  fruit,  un- 
cooked cereal  and  cream,  ham,  potatoes,  muffins  and  cof- 
fee. The  fruit  should  be  served  individually,  or  else  be 
put  on  the  table  as  a  centerpiece,  and  the  bowls  of  cereal 
may  be  set  just  above  each  plate.  Before  the  family  is 
called  to  breakfast  the  butter  should  be  served,  and  the 
coffee  cups  be  put  in  the  handiest  position  for  use.  If 
the  table  is  not  crowded,  the  breakfast  plates  may  stand 
at  the  left  of  the  father's  place;  the  serving  knife  and 
fork  for  the  ham,  and  a  tablespoon  for  the  potatoes 
should  be  placed  at  the  right.  If  a  polished  table  is  used, 
asbestos  mats,  covered  with  linen  slips,  or  woven  grass 
mats,  should  be  placed  wherever  hot  dishes  are  to  be  put. 

After  the  cereal  and  fruit  .have  been  eaten,  the  dishes 
may  be  cleared  onto  a  large  tray  and  carried  into  the 
kitchen.  On  the  same  tray  the  pot  of  coffee,  the  pota- 
toes, ham  and  muffins  may  be  brought  back  to  the  dining 
room.  A  tray  rest,  such  as  used  in  all  hotel  dining  rooms, 
will  be  found  a  great  convenience  in  case  an  empty  serv- 
ing table  is  not  at  hand.  According  to  this  plan  a  mother 
would  need  to  make  but  one  trip  to  the  kitchen  during 
breakfast. 

Dinner  is  usually  a  hearty  meal,  but  it  can  be  served 
in  the  same  general  way.  Suppose  that  the  menu  con- 
sists of  soup,  pot-roast,  spaghetti,  onions,  celery,  apple 
dumplings  with  lemon  sauce  and  coffee.  In  this  case 
the  water  should  be  poured,  the  butter  served,  and  the 
bread  placed  on  the  table,  as  well  as  the  crackers  for  the 
soup.  The  soup  plates  may  stand  before  the  mother,  if 
the  soup  is  to  be  served  at  the  table,  or  may  be  filled  and 
brought  in  just  before  the  meal  is  announced.  The  din- 
ner plates  should  stand  'at  the  father's  left,  or  may  be 
placed  individually  ready  for  the  soup  plates.  The  serv- 
ing utensils  for  the  meat  and  vegetables  should  be  placed 
at  the  father's  right. 


HOME  AND  COMPANY  MEALS  119 

After  the  completion  of  the  soup  course,  the  soiled 
dishes  should  be  removed,  as  described,  and  the  main 
portion  of  the  dinner  brought  in.  After  this  is  eaten, 
the  soiled  dishes  should  be  removed,  the  glasses  filled 
and  the  dessert  served.  The  coffee  service  may  be  ar- 
ranged on  a  tray,  which  may  be  set  directly  on  the  table. 
On  first  thought  it  may  seem  too  much  of  a  task  to  serve 
a  meal  in  courses,  but  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  the 
dishes  have  to  go  to  the  kitchen  anyway,  and  it  is  much 
easier  to  clear  them  away  a  section  at  a  time,  scraping 
and  stacking  them  when  the  tray  is  being  unloaded,  than 
to  attempt  to  untangle  the  heap  of  dishes  that  are  piled 
helter-skelter  on  a  table  that  is  not  cleared  during  the 
entire  meal. 

In  case  it  is  desirable  to  serve  with  more  formality, 
and  there  is  no  maid,  no  woman  should  assume  the  task 
alone.  The  place  of  the  mother  is  at  the  table,  not  only 
because  of  the  effect  she  has  on  the  children,  but  because 
of  the  selfishness  that  she  is  likely  to  inculcate  in  case  she 
insists  on  waiting  on  them.  It  is  an  easy  matter  to  train 
the  older  children  to  wait  on  the  table,  provided  a  few 
simple  directions  are  heeded. 

SERVING  COMPANY-MEALS  WITH  A  MAID 

In  case  the  meal  is  to  be  served  by  a  waitress,  it  is  cus- 
tomary to  have  on  the  table  the  following  articles,  when 
the  meal  is  announced :  At  each  plate  the  silver  should 
be  laid  for  the  various  courses  up  to  the  dessert,  the  forks 
on  the  left,  the  knives,  spoons  and  oyster  forks,  if  used, 
on  the  right  in  the  order  of  use  from  the  outside  toward 
the  plate.  If  used,  the  bread  and  butter  plates  with  the 
spreaders,  laid  horizontally  across,  should  be  at  the  tips 
of  the  forks,  and  each  should  contain  a  roll,  or  one  or  two 
thin  slices  of  bread  and  a  pat  of  butter.  Bread  and  but- 
ter plates  are  not  used  at  a  formal  dinner  or  very  formal 
breakfast  or  luncheon.  The  water  glasses  (or  goblets 
for  a  dinner)  should  stand  at  the  tips  of  the  knives,  the 
nut  dishes  and  individual  salts  and  peppers,  if  used, 
above  the  plates,  the  napkins  (folded  over  once)  at  the 
left  with  the  place  cards  upon  them,  and  the  service  plates 
should  be  set  between  the  forks  and  knives,  like  them 
an  inch  from  the  edge  of  the  table.  The  glasses  should 


120  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

be  filled  three- fourths  full,  and  the  first  course  should 
be  in  position  on  the  service  plate  when  the  meal  is 
announced.  If  a  set  of  salts  and  peppers  is  provided  for 
each  two  guests,  they  should  be  placed  within  easy  reach 
of  both.  The  relishes,  such  as  celery  and  olives,  are 
usually  passed  by  the  maid  with  the  appropriate  courses. 
It  is  no  longer  permissible  to  place  them  upon  the  table 
around  the  centerpiece. 

The  meal  is  served  largely  from  the  pantry,  only  the 
meat,  the  dessert,  if  desired,  and  the  coffee,  if  the  hostess 
wishes,  being  served  at  the  table.  In  serving,  the  wait- 
ress passes  all  foods  to  the  left,  places  all  foods  to  the 
right,  and,  when  removing  a  course  which  is  to  be  im- 
mediately replaced  by  the  following,  she  takes  up  the 
empty  plate  with  the  left  hand  and  sets  down  the  next 
course  with  the  right  hand.  When  the  main  course  is 
served,  the  simplest  method,  after  the  carving  utensils 
have  been  brought  in  and  the  meat  placed,  is  to  put  before 
each  guest  a  warmed  plate  replacing  the  service-plate. 
One  extra  plate  should  be  at  hand,  and,  as  soon  as  the  host 
has  apportioned  the  service  on  the  plate  before  him,  the 
waitress  should  remove  it,  replacing  it  with  the  empty 
plate,  place  the  filled  plate  before  the  first  guest  to  be 
served,  bringing  back  the  empty  plate  to  the  host.  The 
procedure  is  as  before  till  all  are  served. 

The  first  person  to  be  served  when  the  second  course 
is  placed  is  the  lady  at  the  right  of  the  host.  On  serv- 
ing the  succeeding  course  the  next  lady  should  have  the 
preference,  and  so  on.  In  this  way  no  lady  is  served 
last  all  the  time.  If  desired,  the  ladies  may  all  be  served 
first,  and  then  the  men,  but  this  method  causes  confusion, 
and  is  not  often  used. 

Vegetables,  gravy  and  other  accessories  should  be 
passed  on  a  small,  doily-covered  tray,  or  the  dishes  may 
be  held  in  the  hand  if  a  napkin,  or  serving  mitt,  is  pro- 
vided. Between  courses  the  waitress  should  replenish 
the  water  glasses,  butter  balls  and  anything  else  neces- 
sary. If  extra  silver  is  needed,  it  should  be  laid  at  the 
right  of  each  guest  but  never  passed  on  a  dish  containing 
a  portion  of  food.  Before  serving  dessert  the  table  should 
be  entirely  cleared  of  everything  except  water  glasses, 
decorations  and  favors,  should  be  crumbed  by  means  of 


HOME  AND  COMPANY  MEALS          121 

a  fringed  napkin  and  plate,  the  water  glasses  filled,  and 
the  dessert  served  either  from  the  pantry  or  by  the  hos- 
tess, according  to  the  method  described ;  however,  if  de- 
sired, a  pile  of  plates  may  be  set  at  the  hostess's  left, 
the  waitress  placing  an  empty  plate  in  front  of  the  hostess, 
replacing  it  when  filled  with  another  plate  from  the  pile, 
and  serving  the  guests  in  rotation. 

The  coffee  may  follow  the  dessert,  or  be  poured  by  the 
hostess  in  the  drawing-room.  Finger-bowls  should  be 
served  last  on  doily-covered  plates  which  are  not  used 
for  any  other  purpose.  They  are  placed  either  at  the 
right  of,  or  directly  in  front  of,  the  guests. 

SERVING  COMPANY-MEALS  WITHOUT 
A  MAID 

In  case  the  service  is  without  a  maid  the  procedure 
must  of  necessity  be  simplified.  The  meal  should  be  of 
such  a  character  that  the  foods  can  stand  in  the  warm- 
ing-oven and  do  not  need  any  last-minute  cooking.  The 
individual  places  should  be  set  as  described.  At  the  host's 
place  should  be  laid  the  carving-knife  and  fork  and  gravy 
ladle;  at  the  place  to  his  left  should  be  laid  spoons  for 
serving  the  various  vegetables. 

If  this  is  done  by  a  second  person,  it  will  greatly  sim- 
plify the  host's  work  at  the  table.  Silver  for  the  des- 
sert may  in  this  case  ONLY  be  laid  above  the  plate.  The 
service-plate  should  be  dispensed  with  except  for  the 
soup.  In  this  case  the  soup  and  service  plates  should  be 
removed  together,  as  there  may  be  confusion  in  passing 
if  the  service  plate  is  used  for  the  meat  course.  The 
salad  may  be  arranged  in  a  large  bowl  and  dressed  by 
the  hostess  at  the  table.  The  relishes  may  be  on  the 
table,  as  well  as  a  plate  of  bread.  Extra  butter  balls, 
water  and  whatever  replenishings  may  be  needed  should 
be  within  easy  reach  on  the  buffet  or  wheel-tray.  If  there 
are  guests,  great  care  must  be  taken  to  avoid  giving  the 
impression  that  the  hostess  is  "  waiting  on  them."  To 
this  end  the  service  should  be  from  the  table  as  far  as 
possible  and  the  older  boys  and  girls  should  be  called  to 
wait  upon  the  table.  This  plan  works  well,  especially  if 
there  are  two  to  do  it  It  is  astonishing  how  service  of 
this  kind  develops  greater  interest  in  home  life  and  deeper 


122  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

appreciation  of  the  mother.  Before  dessert  the  table  is 
cleared  and  crumbed  and  the  dessert  is  served  by  the 
hostess. 

Coffee  may  follow,  being  poured  at  the  table.  It  al- 
ways takes  longer  to  serve  a  meal  without  a  maid,  if 
time  is  taken  between  courses  to  stack  up  the  soiled  dishes 
in  proper  form  for  dish-washing,  but  in  the  end  this  is  a 
great  time-saver,  and  it  certainly  means  much  to  go  into 
a  kitchen  that  looks  fairly  tidy  after  the  serving  of  a 
company  meal.  So  the  waits  between  courses  are  justi- 
fied. 

The  service  for  a  formal  breakfast  is  as  described  in 
this  section.  However,  whereas  candles  are  usually  used 
at  a  formal  dinner  and  sometimes  at  formal  luncheons, 
if  the  room  is  dark  and  the  weather  dreary,  they  are  out 
of  place  at  a  breakfast.  Bouillon  cups  may  be  used  at 
both  breakfast  and  luncheon  but  not  at  a  dinner. 

For  breakfasts  and  luncheons  a  handsome  set  of  doilies, 
or  runners,  may  be  used,  but  at  a  dinner  the  table  should 
be  entirely  covered  with  a  cloth.  Medium-sized  Madeira, 
or  other  fancy,  napkins  may  be  used  at  breakfasts  or 
luncheons,  but  only  napkins  of  large  size  and  of  a  type 
to  harmonize  with  the  cloth  should  be  used  at  a  dinner. 


CHAPTER  XI 
THE  CHAFING  DISH 

A  woman  is  always  at  her  best  when  performing  some 
house-wifely  rite,  and  over  the  chafing  dish,  with  its 
many  opportunities  for  skill  and  grace,  she  is  supreme. 
But  being  really  graceful  depends  considerably  upon  the 
arrangements.  In  the  first  place  the  chair  should  be 
high,  for  it  is  impossible  to  stir  with  ease,  unless  one's 
hands  are  near  the  top  of  the  dish.  A  piano-chair  is  al- 
ways practical  as  it  can  be  turned  up  to  just  the  right 
height.  A  hassock  should  also  be  provided. 

The  chafing  dish  itself  should  be  set  upon  an  uncov- 
ered tray  to  avoid  all  danger  of  fire  from  the  lamp,  and 
damage  from  boiling  water.  Just  before  setting  in  place 
the  lamp  should  be  filled  and  covered  (to  prevent  evapora- 
tion). The  ordinary  lamp  will  hold  about  a  quarter  of 
a  cupful  —  enough  to  burn  a  half  hour.  Extra  alcohol 
should  be  in  the  filler,  or,  if  one  is  not  at  hand,  a  covered 
pitcher  may  be  used.  As  to  the  fuel,  only  pure  grain  or 
denatured  alcohol  is  suitable,  wood  alcohol  being  very  un- 
satisfactory because  of  its  disagreeable  odor. 

The  cooking  utensils  should  be  placed  at  the  right  of 
the  tray,  as  one  of  the  essentials  of  the  success  of  chafing 
dish  cookery  lies  in  noiselessness.  Only  wooden  spoons 
should  be  used  for  stirring;  these  may  be  obtained  in 
olive  or  apple  wood,  fashioned  in  attractive  design,  and 
sell  at  almost  any  price.  However,  the  regulation  silver 
chafing  dish  spoon  and  fork  should  be  used  for  the  serv- 
ice. 

Along  with  the  spoons  should  be  set  a  salt  and  pepper 
shaker,  whatever  other  seasonings  are  used,  as  Worces- 
tershire, or  tabasco  sauce,  celery  salt,  etc.,  for  no  ex- 
pert at  the  chafing  dish  ever  seasons  by  measure  (it  looks 
too  unprofessional)  ;  an  extra  napkin  to  be  used  in  case 
of  accident,  and  a  spoon  and  fork  to  use  for  testing,  if 

123 


124  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

one  is  not  sure  of  the  seasoning.  Matches,  too,  should 
be  provided. 

All  the  ingredients  should  be  prepared  beforehand  and 
set  within  easy  reach  upon  the  dining  table,  or  upon  a 
small  table  or  wheel  tray.  If  the  latter  is  used,  it  will 
facilitate  the  service  of  the  whole  meal,  for  a  chafing  dish 
affair  is  always  informal  and  the  guests  can  pass  up  their 
soiled  dishes  to  be  stowed  away  on  one  of  the  empty 
trays. 

The  chafing  dish  is  not  suited  to  elaborate  cookery,  but 
rather  to  quickly  prepared  mixtures,  like  eggs,  oysters, 
cheese,  etc.,  and  to  rechauffes,  that  is,  re-heated  cooked 
meats,  fish  and  vegetables.  However,  for  anything  that 
is  to  be  prepared,  all  ingredients  should  be  measured  and 
set  in  pretty  receptacles.  For  instance,  if  hard-cooked 
eggs  are  to  be  sliced,  it  should  be  done  beforehand.  If 
chicken  or  fish  is  to  be  creamed,  it  should  be  diced,  cheese 
sliced  or  shaved,  as  the  case  may  be,  oysters  carefully 
washed  and  freed  from  the  shell;  butter  made  up  into 
balls  containing  just  a  tablespoonful ;  flour  measured, 
etc.  If  this  is  accurately  done  ahead  in  the  quiet  of  the 
kitchen,  all  danger  of  failure  is  overcome,  as  nothing  will 
be  forgotten,  and  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  have  a 
recipe  in  evidence  —  this  always  betrays  the  amateur! 

Anything  that  can  be  cooked  in  a  double  boiler,  or  be 
prepared  in  a  saucepan,  is  adapted  to  the  chafing  dish, 
although  frying  should  not  be  attempted  because  of  the 
disagreeable  odor.  As  the  chafing  dish  is  primarily  used 
so  that  foods  can  be  served  at  once,  and  very  hot,  it  also 
seems  out  of  place  to  prepare  dishes  that  must  be  ar- 
ranged upon  platters  for  service.  The  hot-water  pan  cor- 
responds to  the  bottom  of  the  double  boiler,  and  the 
blazer  to  the  top.  Both  should  be  supplied  with  handles. 
Other  attachments  are  often  used,  as  a  toaster  or  a 
broiler,  but  they  are  not  at  all  necessary. 

As  the  chafing  dish  is  limited  to  informal  occasions, 
it  is  generally  used  only  in  the  following  instances :  Sun- 
day night  tea,  after-theater  suppers,  buffet  luncheons,  or 
as  the  hot  course  -at  a  luncheon  when  there  is  no  maid  in 
attendance.  The  usual  accompaniments  are  little  rolls 
or  biscuits,  dainty  sandwiches  that  harmonize  with  the 
dish  to  be  prepared,  a  suitable  salad,  and  a  simple  dessert. 


THE  CHAFING  DISH  125 

If  the  salad  is  of  fruit,  it  is  often  used  in  place  of  a  sweet. 
A  drink  also  is  indispensable,  the  selection  depending  on 
the  balance  of  the  meal ;  tea,  coffee,  chocolate,  cocoa, 
ginger  ale,  and  fruit  beverages  of  all  kinds  are  in  order. 
Unless  a  definite  first  course  is  provided,  as  a  bouillon  or 
fruit  cup,  a  few  hors  d'ocuvres  should  be  passed  to  occupy 
the  guests  until  the  chafing  dish  creation  is  prepared. 
These  may  include  olives,  radishes,  celery  sticks,  canapes, 
tiny,  open  fish  sandwiches  (one  slice  of  bread  only  being 
used)  and  pimentoes  in  various  forms. 

The  following  menus  show  how  these  meals  may  be 
planned : 

Menus  for  Sunday  Night  Suppers 

I 

Creamed  Oysters  (Chafing  Dish) 
Olive  Sandwiches  Cheese  Sandwiches 

Salted  Nuts  Sweet  Pickled  Pears 

Celery,  Date  and  Orange  Salad  Mayonnaise 

Charlotte  Russe  Chocolate  Cake 

Coffee 

II 

Halved  Peaches  sprinkled  with  Almonds 

Devilled  Lobster    (Chafing  Dish)  Little  Buttered  Rolls 

Salted  Nuts  Candied  Ginger 

Cream  Cheese  and  Olive  Salad 

Chocolate  Frappe  Angel  Cake 

Raspberry  Punch 

III 

Green  Pepper  Canapes 
Eggs  Poached  in  Creamed  Asparagus  (Chafing  Dish) 

Brown  Bread  and  Butter  Sandwiches 

Radishes  Olives 

Strawberry,  Pineapple  and  Orange  Salad  Cheese  Sticks 

Hot  Chocolate  Whipped  Cream 

Menus  for  After-Theater  Suppers 

I 

Chillaly  (Chafing  Dish)     Brown  Bread  and  Butter  Sandwiches 

Lettuce  Celery,  Walnut  and  Olive  Salad 

Baked  Figs  Sponge  Cake 

Ginger  Ale 


126  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

II 
Chicken  d  la  King  (Chafing  Dish)  Hot  Toast 

Salted  Nuts  Olives 

Waldorf  Salad  Unsweetened  Wafers 

Pineapple  Lemonade 

III 

Bouillon  (Chafing  Dish) 
Creamed  Halibut  (Chafing  Dish)  with  Pimentoes 

^  Olive,  Grapefruit,  Celery  and  Endive  Salad 
Whipped  Cream  Cake  Coffee 

Menus  for  Chafing  Dish  Luncheons 

I 

Cream  of  Celery  Soup  Wafers 

Chicken  and  Mushrooms  (Chafing  Dish)     Saratoga  Chips     Rolls 

Tomato,  Cucumber  and  Lettuce  Salad 

Cherry  and  Pineapple  Fruit  Cup        Little  Nut  Cakes 

Coffee 

II 

Grapefruit  Cocktail 

Oyster  and  Celery  Bisque  (Chafing  Dish)  Crackers 

Salted  Nuts  Olives 

Stuffed  Egg  and  Pimento  Salad 

Graham  Bread  Sandwiches  Little  Rolls 

Little  Apple  Tarts  Cream  Cheese  Balls 

Tea 

III 

Cream  of  Chicken  Soup  Croutons 

Spanish  Omelet  (Chafing  Dish)  Little  Rolls 

Banana,  Pineapple  and  Nut  Salad  Cheese  Sticks 

Eclairs  Coffee 

The  chafing  dish  is  usually  adopted  when  there  is  no 
maid  in  attendance,  and,  because  of  this,  food  for  the  en- 
tire meal  is  often  placed  on  the  table  at  once. 

The  first  course  is  in  position  when  the  guests  are  called 
to  the  table,  the  chafing  dish,  with  ingredients,  is  set  in 
place,  with  a  pile  of  serving  plates  beside  it.  The  salad, 
arranged  on  a  platter  or  in  a  bowl,  is  set  at  the  place  op- 
posite, the  plates  being  at  the  left  of  it  while  the  dessert 
(unless  an  ice)  is  served  individually,  and  set  at  the  right 
of  each  guest ;  the'hors  d'ceuvers  and  plates  of  sandwiches, 
cake,  etc.,  are  set  where  it  is  convenient.  Extra  butter 
and  a  carafe  or  pitcher  of  water  are  also  on  the  table,  while 
the  service  for  coffee,  tea,  or  any  other  drink  to  be  served 


A 


THE  CHAFING  DISH  127 

is  arranged  on  a  tray  and  set  either  before  one  of  the 
guests,  or  stands  in  readiness  on  the  buffet  for  the 
hostess.  After  the  chafing  dish  has  been  removed  tea 
or 'coffee  is  usually  made  at  the  table. 

If  a  chafing  dish  luncheon  is  being  given  and  a  maid 
is  in  attendance,  the  ingredients  and  plates  are  brought 
in  by  the  maid.  The  hostess  serves  directly  to  the  plates 
which  are  passed  by  the  attendant.  In  cases  where  a 
maid  is  not  employed  the  menu  should  be  simple,  the  first 
course  being  in  position  when  the  meal  is  announced,  the 
second  consisting  of  the  article  that  is  to  be  prepared. 
In  this  case  it  is  permissible  to  have  the  chafing  dish  on 
the  table  from  the  first,  although  it  should  be  removed 
with  the  soiled  dishes  after  the  course  is  finished. 

To  be  successful  a  chafing  dish  affair  should  not  include 
more  than  ten  guests  —  in  fact  six  is  a  more  convenient 
number  —  for  the  chafing  dish  has  not  been  made  that 
will  serve  more.  If  a  larger  group  is  to  be  accommo- 
dated, the  tables  should  be  enlarged,  and  a  friend  invited 
to  preside  over  a  second  chafing  dish. 

A  study  of  the  chapters  in  this  book  which  are  devoted 
to  left-over  meats,  eggs,  cheese,  souffles,  vegetables  and 
fish  will  suggest  many  dishes  that  can  be  easily  made  in 
the  chafing  dish. 


PART  TWO 


CHAPTER  .1 
MEASUREMENTS 

There  is  no  such  thing  as  "  good  luck  "  or  "  bad  luck  " 
in  cooking,  if  the  recipe  measurements  are  absolutely  ac- 
curate and  the  housewife  understands  the  range.  Al- 
though many  authorities  advocate  measuring  out  before- 
hand all  ingredients  needed  for  the  dish  to  be  prepared, 
any  practical  woman  will  readily  see  that  this  makes 
necessary  the  use  of  too  many  measuring  utensils  and 
dishes.  It  is  much  better  always  to  keep  standard  half- 
pint  measuring  cups  in  the  sugar  and  flour  cans,  tea- 
spoons in  the  salt  jar  or  tea  cannister,  and  tablespoons  in 
the  coffee  can,  corn  starch  jar  and  so  on.  During  the 
average  morning's  cooking  it  should  not  be  necessary  to 
use  more  than  two  extra  measuring  cups,  one  for  ingredi- 
ents not  already  provided  with  cups,  the  other  for  fats 
and  liquids.  There  should  also  be  a  teaspoon  and  a 
tablespoon  each  for  dry  and  liquid  ingredients. 

The  equipment  for  accurate  measuring  is  as  follows: 
One  standard  half -pint  tin  or  aluminum  measuring  cup; 
one  standard  half-pint  glass  measuring  cup ;  one  standard 
half-pint  pitcher  cup  (for  use  in  making  mayonnaise, 
and  the  like),  each  divided  into  thirds  and  quarters ;  one- 
quart  aluminum  or  tin  cup  divided  into  quarters,  and 
standard  tablespoons  and  teaspoons. 

To  measure  a  cupful  of  any  dry  ingredient,  fill  it  full 
and  level  off  the  top  with  a  knife,  taking  care  not  to  pack 
it  in.  A  spoonful  should  be  measured  in  the  same  way 
—  it  should  never  be  "  rounded,"  unless  specified.  To 
measure  half  an  ordinary  teaspoonful,  fill  it  level,  scrap- 
ing it  off,  and  divide  the  contents  into  halves  lengthwise. 
Flour,  confectioner's  sugar,  baking  soda  and  any  other 
ingredient  which  is  liable  to  lump  should  be  sifted  before 
measuring,  while  mustard,  baking  powder,  etc.,  which 
settle  from  standing  in  the  can,  should  be  stirred  to 
lighten. 


132  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

A  cupful,  or  spoonful,  of  any  liquid  is  as  much  as  the 
utensil  will  hold  without  running  over.  All  fats,  as  but- 
ter, oleomargarine,  lard  or  drippings,  are  packed  down 
and  leveled  before  measuring.  When  they  are  to  be 
melted,  it  is  specified  in  the  recipe.  Sixteen  tablespoon- 
fuls,  level,  of  anything,  will  fill  a  half-pint  cup.  In  pre- 
paring a  portion  of  a  recipe  this  rule  will  be  found  a  great 
help. 


CHAPTER  II 
BEVERAGES 

ALL   MEASUREMENTS   ARE   LEVEL 

TEA 

Good  tea  can  be  made  only  in  a  pot  of  china,  silver  or 
earthenware,  as  tea  contains  a  decided  acid  and  bitter 
substance,  which  is  liable  to  combine  with  the  metal  of 
other  receptacles,  producing  an  unpleasant  flavor  and  an 
unwholesome  beverage.  The  problem  in  making  tea  is  to 
bring  out  the  stimulating  principle  therein,  as  well  as  the 
fragrant  oil,  and  to  avoid  the  development  of  the  tannic 
acid.  This  can  only  be  done  by  pouring  boiling  water 
over  the  tea,  as  water  which  is  merely  simmering  does  not 
develop  the  flavor.  Tea  should  not  stand  on  the  leaves 
more  than  five  minutes. 

MAKING  TEA 

The  easiest  way  to  make  tea  in  a  pot  is  to  measure  the 
tea  into  a  tea  ball,  which  may  be  hung  to  the  nozzle  of  the 
tea  pot  by  the  chain  to  which  the  ball  is  attached.  At 
the  end  of  five  minutes  the  ball  may  be  quickly  lifted  from 
the  infusion  and  the  leaves  easily  emptied  into  the  garb- 
age can,  for  nothing  stains  a  white  porcelain  sink  more 
quickly  than  tea  and  tea  leaves.  This  tea-ball  method  is 
a  real  short  cut,  for  it  saves  the  washing  of  a  strainer 
and  a  second  pot  into  which  the  infusion  must  be  strained, 
if  the  water  is  poured  directly  on  the  loose  tea  leaves. 
Needless  to  say  the  tea  pot  must  be  thoroughly  washed 
and  scalded.  Tea  should  never  be  boiled. 

The  proportion  of  tea  for  each  cup  varies  with  the 
brand,  but  half  a  teaspoonful  of  good  tea  should  be 
ample. 

133 


134  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Iced  Tea 

6  teaspoonfuls  tea  £  cupful  syrup  stock  or  sugar 

£  teaspoonful  whole  cloves  to  taste  (if  desired) 

i  sliced  lemon  I  quart  boiling  water 

Put  the  tea  in  a  crock  or  pitcher,  pour  over  the  boiling 
water  and  let  stand,  covered,  five  minutes  in  a  warm 
place.  Then  strain  it  on  to  the  cloves,  lemon  and  sweet- 
ening, stir  and  let  cool.  Serve  with  a  thin  slice  of  lemon 
to  each  glass.  Iced  tea  should  be  made  stronger  than 
ordinary  tea,  to  allow  for  the  ice  dilution. 

Afternoon  Tea 

i  teaspoonful  tea  Sliced  lemon 

Candied  or  Maraschino  cher-  Whole  cloves 

ries  Boiling  water 
Lime  drops 

Measure  the  tea  into  the  tea  ball,  put  the  cup  with  the 
desired  flavoring  (two  cherries  to  a  cupful),  three  cloves, 
one  lime  drop,  or  one  slice  of  lemon,  and  pour  over  boil- 
ing water,  allowing  the  ball  to  remain  in  until  the  tea  is  of 
the  desired  strength.  Two  cupfuls  of  tea  may  be  made 
at  a  time  without  refilling  the  ball. 

COFFEE 

Coffee  must  be  made  as  carefully  as  tea,  in  order  to 
develop  the  fragrant  flavor  without  overdeveloping  the 
caffeine  and  tannin.  To  this  end  it  should  be  made  as 
quickly  as  possible  and  without  much  cooking.  The  best 
method  is  as  the  coffee  tasters  make  it,  the  next,  perco- 
lating or  filtering.  Old-fashioned  boiled  coffee  is  the 
least  desirable  method. 

There  are  two  essentials  in  making  good  coffee  —  first, 
an  absolutely  clean  utensil;  second,  a  generous  quantity 
of  a  pure  brand  of  coffee  unmixed  with  chicory.  Given 
these,  no  matter  if  the  vessel  be  a  tomato  can  or  a  silver 
urn,  the  result  will  be  perfect,  if  care  is  used.  Coffee 
should  never  be  allowed  to  stand  on  the  grounds  after  it 
is  finished. 

A  moderate  amount  of  well-made  coffee,  without  cream 
or  sugar,  is  a  mild  stomach  stimulant,  as  well  as  slightly 
laxative.  It  has,  however,  a  distinct  influence  on  the 
nervous  system,  sometimes  leading  to  general  nervous- 


BEVERAGES  135 

ness,  tremulousness,  loss  of  sleep  and  dizziness.  In  some 
cases  actual  indigestion  may  be  traced  to  it,  as  caffeine 
acts  adversely  on  some  people,  retarding  digestion  and 
causing  flatulence  with  a  consequent  "  sinking  heart " 
sensation.  Children  are  especially  susceptible  to  these 
influences  and  should  never  be  allowed  to  drink  coffee. 

There  are  several  kinds  of  powdered  coffee  on  the  mar- 
ket, which  may  be  dissolved  in  boiling  water,  and,  if  a 
really  good  brand  is  chosen,  this  is  a  satisfactory  and 
economical  method. 

Coffee  (Coffee  Taster's  Method) 

To  make  the  best  coffee  it  should  not  .be  boiled. 

Allow  a  tablespoon ful  of  medium-ground  coffee  to 
each  person.  Put  it  in  a  heated  enamel  pot,  and  pour 
over  it  a  coffee  cupful  of  boiling  water  for  each  table- 
spoonful  used.  Bring  to  the  boil  and  then  let  stand  four 
minutes  where  it  will  keep  hot,  but  not  boil.  Then  add 
a  dash  of  cold  water  to  settle  it.  Coffee  made  according 
to  this  recipe  contains  a  minimum  amount  of  caffeine 
and  tannin. 

Percolator  Coffee 

Put  the  coffee  in  the  percolator,  pour  in  one  cupful 
cold  water  to  two  tablespoonfuls  miedium-ground  coffee 
for  each  cup  to  be  made  and  put  on  the  glass  top.  Set 
on  the  sheet-iron  plate  over  the  fire,  bring  to  boiling 
point,  and  let  boil  from  three  to  five  minutes,  according 
to  the  strength  desired. 

After-Dinner  Coffee 

Increase  the  amount  of  coffee  one-half,  and  make  either 
by  the  coffee  filter  or  percolator  method. 

Cereal  Coffee 

3  pounds  whole  wheat  3  tablespoonfuls  molasses 

i  pound  whole  barley  3  tablespoonfuls  butter 

i  cupful  ground  chicory 

Roast  the  wheat  and  barley  until  brown,  stirring  often. 
When  as  dark  as  a  coffee  berry,  add  the  butter  and  molas- 
ses, stirring  it  until  all  is  absorbed  and  the  grains  separate. 
Remove  from  the  oven  and,  when  cold,  add  the  chicory. 


136  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Grind  in  a  coffee  mill.  To  make,  use  2  tablespoon fuls 
of  "coffee"  to  each  person  and  ij  cupfuls  cold  water. 
Boil  an  hour,  and  serve  with  sugar  and  cream  or  milk. 

COCOA  AND  CHOCOLATE 
Cocoa 

Cocoa,  as  directed  on  package          3  cupfuls  milk 
i  cupful  sugar  £  teaspoonful  salt 

3  cupfuls  water 

Mix  the  sugar,  salt  and  cocoa  together,  thoroughly ;  add 
the  water,  and  boil  five  minutes.  Add  milk,  boil  up  once, 
then  beat  with  the  Dover  egg-beater,  and  serve.  In  mak- 
ing cocoa  for  children  or  invalids  do  not  boil  up  the  bev- 
erage—  bring  the  milk  just  to  a  scald  and  combine  with 
the  boiled  cocoa  and  water. 

Hot  Chocolate 

2.\   squares  (ounces)  chocolate          Few  grains  salt 

i  cupful  sugar  ii  cupfuls  boiling  water 

3i  cupfuls  milk 

Shave  the  chocolate  and  add  to  the  milk.  Place  over 
hot  water  and  scald  until  the  chocolate  is  melted.  Add 
the  water,  sugar  and  salt  and  cook  one  hour.  Beat  well 
with  an  egg-beater  and  serve  in  chocolate  cups  with 
whipped  cream,  or  2  marshmallows  to  each  cup. 

Creole  Chocolate 

1  quart  milk,  scalded  £  cupful  sugar 

2  squares  (ounces)  chocolate          \  teaspoonful  vanilla 
I  inch  stick  cinnamon  Few  grains  salt 

I  cupful   boiling  water  I  cupful  whipped  cream 

Scald  the  milk  with  the  cinnamon.  Melt  the  chocolate, 
add  the  water,  and,  when  smooth,  add  to  the  milk  with 
the  salt  and  sugar.  Cook  at  least  an  hour  over  hot  water, 
add  vanilla,  "  mull "  or  beat  with  an  egg-beater,  and 
serve  in  chocolate  cups  with  whipped  cream. 

.    COLD  DRINKS 

There  is  no  reason  why  any  household  cannot  enjoy 
a  wide  variety  of  cold  drinks  with  but  little  expense  and 
trouble,  and  without  patronizing  the  soda  fountain  to 


BEVERAGES  137 

an  undue  extent.  It  takes  but  little  time  to  make  up  a  few 
syrups  which  may  be  kept  in  sterilized  bottles  for  use  as 
needed.  Plain  syrup  stock,  that  is  a  syrup  of  sugar  and 
water,  should  always  be  kept  on  hand  both  in  winter  and 
summer,  as  it  provides  a  rich,  smooth  sweetening  for  any 
drink,  hot  or  cold,  besides  saving  considerable  time  in 
preparation  when  it  is  needed.  In  other  words,  it  is  a 
"  short  cut "  to  have  syrup  enough  for  instant  use  in 
making  a  number  of  lemonades,  or  whatever  the  drink 
may  be,  instead  of  stopping  to  boil  it  each  time. 

Plain  Syrup  Stock 

2  quarts  water  6  pounds  sugar 

Boil  together  five  minutes.  Can  hot  in  sterilized  jars. 
Allow  i  tablesftoonful  to  a  person  in  sweetening  any  fresh 
fruit  drink. 

Chocolate  Syrup 

3  pounds  cocoa   (not  rich  in          2  pounds  granulated  sugar 
fat)  ,   i  quart  warm  water 

Dissolve  the  cocoa  in  a  pint  of  cold  water ;  dissolve 
the  sugar  in  the  warm  water,  add  the  dissolved  cocoa, 
bring  to  boiling  point  and  can  hot  in  sterilized  jars. 

Chocolate  Milk  Shake 

Use  J  cupful  of  the  syrup  to  f  cupful  of  milk. 
Use  3   tablespoon fuls   syrup,  -J   cupful  milk,    I   table- 
spoonful  cream  and  i  well-beaten  egg. 

Coffee  Syrup 

i$  quarts  strong  coffee  3  pounds  sugar 

Make  the  coffee  very  strong — i  pound  coffee  to  if 
quarts  of  water.  Clear  and  strain;  combine  with  the 
sugar  and  bring  to  boiling  point.  Can  hot  in  sterilized 
bottles.  It  will  keep  indefinitely. 

Use  2  tablespoon  fuls  of  the  coffee  syrup  to  f  cupful 
milk. 

Iced  Coffee 

Use  3  tablespoonfuls  of  the  coffee  syrup  to  i  table- 
spoonful  cream  and  J  cupful  milk. 


138  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Coffee  Egg  Shake 

Use  3  tablespoonfuls  of  coffee  syrup,  i  well-beaten  egg, 
I  tablespoonful  cream  and  \  cupful  milk. 

Pineapple  Syrup 

I  pint  bottle  preserved  pine-  i*  pounds  sugar 
apple  juice  or  a  pint  of  3  cupfuls  water 
canned  pineapple  juice 

Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water;  add  the  pineapple  juice 
and  bring  to  boiling-point.  Can  hot  in  sterilized  bottles. 
This  will  keep  indefinitely. 

Use  3  tablespoonfuls  of  pineapple  syrup  juice,  -J  lemon 
and  J  cupful  ice  water. 

Vanilla  Syrup 

3  pounds  sugar  2  tablespoonfuls    vanilla    ex- 

ii  quarts  water  tract 

Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water.  Boil  five  minutes,  add 
the  vanilla  and  can  hot  in  sterilized  bottles. 

Use  2  tablespoonfuls  of  vanilla  syrup  to  J  cupful  milk. 

Malted  Milk  Egg 

Use  I  tablespoonful  malted  milk  dissolved  in  I  table- 
spoonful  desired  syrup,  I  well-beaten  egg  and  \  cupful 
milk. 

Lemon  Syrup 

6  large  lemons  .  6  pounds  granulated  sugar 

2 J  quarts  cold  water 

Grate  the  lemon  rind  into  the  sugar,  add  the  lemon 
juice,  and  let  stand,  covered,  five  or  six  hours.  Then  add 
the  water,  stir  till  dissolved,  strain,  and  can  hot  in  steril- 
ized jars.  This  will  keep  a  month  in  a  cold  place. 

Lemonade 

Use  4  tablespoonfuls  of  the  syrup  to  f  cupful  water. 

Orangeade  Syrup 

6  large  oranges  2^  quarts  cold  water 

i  large  lemon  6  pounds  sugar 

Grate  the  rinds  into  the  sugar,  add  the  fruit  juices  and 


BEVERAGES  139 

cover.  Let  stand  six  hours,  then  add  the  water,  stir  un- 
til dissolved,  and  strain.  Can  hot  in  sterilized  jars. 
This  will  keep  four  weeks  in  a  cold  place. 

Use  4  tablespoonfuls  of  syrup  to  f  cupful  water  and  I 
teaspoonful  fresh  lemon  juice. 

Orangeade 

2  cupfuls  sugar  I  quart  water 

I  cupful  orange  juice  i  cupful  lemon  juice 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  ten  minutes  with  the  orange 
rinds.  Remove  the  rinds,  chill  the  syrup,  add  the  fruit 
juices  and  dilute  to  taste.  Serve  very  cold  with  a  bit  of 
orange  or  mint  as  a  garnish.  This  makes  ten  small 
glasses. 

Raspberry  or  Loganberry  Ade 

1  quart   can    home-preserved  i  cupful  sugar 
raspberries  or  loganberries          2  cupfuls  water 

Juice  2  lemons  Ice  water 

Boil  together  the  sugar  and  water  for  ten  minutes. 
Cool,  add  the  raspberry,  which  should  be  quite  liquid, 
turn  in  the  lemon  juice  and  let  stand  two  hours  to  ripen. 
Dilute  with  ice  water  to  desired  strength,  and  serve  with- 
out straining.  The  amount  of  water  to  be  added  depends 
upon  the  richness  of  the  fruit.  Usually  this  amount  will 
make  sixteen  to  twenty  small  glasses. 

Pineapple  Lemonade 

2  cupfuls  hot  water  i  can  grated  pineapple 
i  cupful  sugar                                    Juice  3  lemons 

4  cupfuls  ice  water 

Make  a  syrup  by  boiling  the  sugar  and  water  ten  min- 
utes. Cool.  Add  the  pineapple  and  lemon  juice. 
Strain,  add  the  ice  water  and  serve  in  lemonade  glasses. 
This  makes  sixteen  to  twenty  glasses. 

Ginger  Sorbet 

1  pound  candied  ginger  Juice  2  oranges 

2  cupfuls  sugar  2  quarts  water 
i  cupful  lemon  juice 

Chop  the  ginger  fine,  add  it  to  the  water  and  sugar  and 
boil  fifteen  minutes.  Cool,  and  add  water  to  make  it 


I4o  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

ten  cups;  add  the  fruit  juice  and  serve  either  in  glasses 
half-filled  with  crushed  ice,  or  diluted  with  ice  water.  A 
cupful  of  cooked  rhubarb  juice,  or  one  of  strong  tea,  is 
a  great  addition.  This  will  make  sixteen  small  glasses. 

Rhubarbade 

i  pound  diced  rhubarb  Juice  i  orange 

i  cupful  sugar  Juice  2  lemons 

i  cupful  water  i  quart  ice  water 
Bit  of  ginger  root 

Bake  the  first  four  ingredients  till  the  rhubarb  is  soft 
and  pink.  Strain,  add  the  fruit  juices  and  ice  water, 
chill  and  serve.  This  makes  from  twelve  to  sixteen  small 
glasses. 

Turkish  Punch 

I  quart  canned  apricots  2  cupfuls  canned  apple  juice 

I  cupful  sugar  or  cider 

I  cupful  water  Juice  i  orange 

Juice  i  lemon 

Rub  the  apricots  through  a  coarse  sieve.  Boil  the 
sugar  and  water  together  for  ten  minutes  and  add  to  the 
apricots.  When  cool,  follow  with  the  other  fruit  juices. 
Let  stand  two  hours  to  ripen,  and  dilute  with  ice  water, 
or  serve  in  punch  cups  half-filled  with  crushed  ice  and 
accompanied  by  straws.  This  makes  twenty  small  punch 
cupfuls. 

Varsity  Punch 

Juice  8  oranges  3i  cupfuls  sugar 

i  cupful  lime  juice  5  cupfuls  water 

i  large  can  shredded  pine-  Ice  water 
apple 

Boil  the  sugar  and  the  water  together  for  ten  minutes. 
Chill,  pour  it  over  the  fruit  and  lime  juice  and  let  stand 
two  hours.  Dilute  to  taste  with  ice  water.  This  serves 
forty  guests. 

Picnic  Punch 

i  can  grated  pineapple  i  quart  grape,  currant,  logan- 

3  cupfuls  boiling  water  berry  or  strawberry  juice 

i  cupful  freshly-made  tea  i  bottle  Apollinaris 

Juice  6  lemons  i  quart    sugar    and     i     pint 

Juice  10  oranges  water  simmered  together  5 

minutes 


BEVERAGES  141 

Cook  the  pineapple  twenty  minutes  in  the  boiling  water 
and  strain.  Cool,  add  the  remaining  fruit  juices,  the  tea 
and  the  cooled  syrup.  Add  the  Apollinaris  just  before 
serving.  It  is  better  to  make  the  punch  a  few  hours 
.ahead  and  let  it  stand,  closely  covered,  on  ice  to  chill  and 
ripen.  At  serving-time,  add  the  Apollinaris  and  water 
to  dilute  to  the  strength  desired.  Strawberries,  mint 
leaves,  or  slices  of  banana  are  often  added  as  a  garnish. 
This  serves  fifty  guests. 

Grapefruit  Punch 

i  quart  water  Juice  i  lemon 

1 1  cupfuls  sugar  i  cupful  shredded  Mara- 

i  pint  grapefruit  juice  schino  cherries 

i  cupful  bits  grapefruit  pulp  Shaved  ice 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  for  ten  minutes. 
Cool,  add  the  fruits  and  fruit  juices  and  let  stand  an  hour 
to  ripen.  Serve  in  glasses  half-filled  with  shaved  ice. 
If  necessary,  use  additional  sugar.  This  amount  will 
fill  twenty  small  punch  glasses. 

Grape  Punch 

i  pint  grape  juice  2  quarts  water 

Juice  2  lemons  i  cupful  sugar 

Juice  2  oranges  i  cupful   halved   and   seeded 

i  cupful  cut  oranges  Tokay  grapes 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  for  ten  minutes. 
Cool,  add  the  fruit  juices  and  fruit  and  either  serve  with 
cracked  ice,  or  iced  in  a  punch  bowl.  This  amount  serves 
twelve  guests. 

Cranberry  Punch 

i  quart  cranberries  Juice  7  lemons 

Juice  4  oranges  i  pint  can  shredded  pineapple 

4  quarts  water  Granulated  sugar 

Boil  the  cranberries  in  one-half  the  water  for  thirty 
minutes ;  sift,  add  two-thirds  as  much  sugar  as  cran- 
berry juice  to  the  remaining  water  and  boil  five  minutes. 
Chill  both  mixtures,  combine,  add  fruit  juices  and  pine- 
apple and  serve  with  cracked  ice.  This  amount  will  serve 
forty  guests. 


142  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Cranberryade 

i  pint  cold  water  Juice  2  lemons 

i  pint  cranberries  I  cupful  sugar 

Cook  the  cranberries  in  the  water  until  they  burst. 
Add  the  sugar  and  boil  one  minute ;  cool,  strain,  add  the 
lemon  juice  and  dilute  with  cold  water  to  the  desired 
strength.  This  amount  will  serve  from  eight  to  ten 
guests. 

Apricot  Punch 

I  quart  can  apricots  ii  cupfuls  sugar 

I  quart  boiling  water  Juice  2  lemons 

Chop  the  apricots  very  fine  and  add  the  juice  to  them. 
Boil  together  the  sugar  and  water  for  ten  minutes ;  add  to 
the  apricots  and  let  cool.  Then  add  the  lemon  juice  and 
dilute  with  ice  water  or  cracked  ice  to  the  desired 
strength.  This  serves  twenty  guests. 

Hot  Grape  Juice 

For  each  cupful  of  grape  juice  allow  a  clove  and  a  half- 
inch  stick  of  cinnamon  bark.  Heat  barely  to  boiling 
point,  remove  the  spice,  and  serve  with  plain  toasted 
crackers. 

Colonial  Fruit  Punch 

I  quart  of  canned  red  cher-  i  quart  bottle  Apollinaris 

ries  Sugar    to    sweeten,    about    i 

i  cupful  orange  juice  cupful  dissolved  in  i  quart 

1  cupful  lemon  juice  boiling  water 

2  sliced  bananas 

Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  boiling  water  and  cool  the 
mixture.  Combine  with  the  cherries  and  fruit  juices; 
chill  and,  just  before  serving,  add  the  bananas  and  Apol- 
linaris. 

Fruit  Punch 

2  cupfuls  sugar  i  pint  strawberry  syrup 

i  cupful  water  Juice  5  lemons 

I  cupful  tea  Juice  5  oranges 

i  quart  Apollinaris  i  can  grated  pineapple 

Ice  water  to  make  ii  gallons  i  pint  Maraschino  cherries 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  ten  minutes.  Add  tea,  fruit 
juices,  pineapple  and  syrup.  Let  stand  thirty  minutes. 


BEVERAGES  143 

Strain,  and  add  ice  water  to  make  ij  gallons  of  liquid. 
Turn  into  a  punch  bowl  over  a  large  piece  of  ice  and 
add  the  cherries  and  Apollinaris.  This  serves  fifty  people. 

Tolland  Cup 

To  each  service  allow  from  two  to  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  maple  syrup,  and  f  cupful  coffee  of  medium  strength. 
Let  stand  to  become  very  cold.  Serve  in  tall,  slender 
glasses,  garnish  with  whipped  cream,  sweetened  with 
maple  syrup,  and  sprinkled  with  scraped  maple  sugar. 


CHAPTER  III 
FRUITS 

ALL   MEASUREMENTS   ARE   LEVEL 

PREPARING  FRESH  FRUITS  FOR  SERVING 

Unless  fruit  is  freshly  picked  and  is  free  from  dust  and 
from  all  possible  contamination,  it  should  always  be  thor- 
oughly washed  before  serving.  This  includes  bananas, 
Oranges,  grapes  and  all  fruits.  The  easiest  way  to  wash 
the  larger  fruits  is  to  put  them  in  a  colander  and  rinse 
them  thoroughly  in  cold  water ;  then  drain  them  on  paper 
towels.  This  should  be  done  as  soon  as  they  come  into 
the  kitchen.  Blackberries,  strawberries  and  raspberries 
should  be  put  in  the  colander,  rinsed  quickly,  and  then 
hulled,  care  being  used  to  rid  the  fruit  of  all  possible  in- 
sects. 

Oranges  to  be  Eaten  with  a  Spoon 

The  fruit  should  be  cut  in  halves  crosswise  and,  if 
these  do  not  stand  level,  a  thin  slice  of  skin  may  be  cut 
from  the  ends.  The  pulp  around  the  edge  should  then 
be  loosened  by  a  curved  grapefruit  knife,  which  makes 
the  process  very  quick.  The  membrane  between  the  sec- 
tions should  be  loosened  until  it  is  tender,  and,  if  there 
is  much  pith  in  the  center,  it  should  be  removed. 

Oranges  Flower  Fashion 

Cut  down  the  skin  in  quarters,  and  then  in  eighths,  to 
within  an  inch  of  the  blossom  end;  then  strip  down  in 
points  and  fold  them  over. 

Orange  Sections  on  a  Strip  of  Peel 

Cut  an  inch  band  around  the  'orange  crosswise  through 
the  center,  remove  the  remaining  skin,  cut  the  strip  and 
open  out  the  sections. 

144 


FRUITS  145 

Oranges  au  Naturel 

Separate  the  orange  into  sections,  arrange  around  a 
mound  of  sugar,  or  an  individual  plate,  separating  the  sec- 
tions with  a  few  cluster  raisins.  Allow  five  sections  to 
a  person. 

To  Obtain  Orange  and  Grapefruit  Sections  for  Fruit  Cups 
and  Salads 

Pare  the  fruit  with  a  sharp  knife  till  the  juice  runs 
and  then  cut  out  each  section  separately  with  a  sharp 
knife.  This  is  a  quick  method,  and  when  it  is  used  there 
is  not  only  less  waste  but  the  pulp  is  kept  whole  and  in 
perfect  condition.  These  sections  are  called  "  carpels." 

Sliced  Oranges,  Pullman  Fashion 

Pare  the  oranges  with  a  sharp  knife,  slice  thin  cross- 
wise, and  arrange  in  glass  dessert  dishes  with  a  little 
sugar  between  each  slice.  Chill  thoroughly.  If  desired, 
some  sweetened  pineapple  juice,  or  the  juice  from  other 
canned  fruit,  may  be  poured  over  the  orange  slices,  and 
the  whole  well-chilled.  Cocoanut  may  be  sprinkled  over 
the  serving  if  to  act  as  a  dessert. 

Oranges  en  Casserole 

Select  thin-skinned  Florida  oranges,  cut  in  halves, 
scoop  out  the  seeds,  fill  the  centers  with  sugar,  arrange 
the  halves  in  a  glass  casserole,  pour  in  a  cupful  of  water, 
and  place  a  bit  of  butter  on  each  half.  Cook,  covered,  in 
a  moderate  oven  till  the  skins  are  tender,  about  two 
hours.  Then  uncover  to  brown. 

Orange  Compote 

6  navel  oranges  2  cupfuls  granulated  sugar 

i  lemon  2  cupfuls  apricot  juice 

i  cupful  water 

Separate  the  oranges  into  sections  without  breaking 
the  membrane.  Make  a  syrup  of  the  water,  sugar,  apri- 
cot and  lemon  juice,  boiling  five  minutes,  or  until  it 
threads.  Add  oranges,  cover  and  cool.  Chill  at  least 
an  hour  before  serving. 


146  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

To  Prepare  Grapefruit 

Wash  and  cut  the  grapefruit  in  halves  crosswise ;  cut 
around  the  outer  edge  of  the  pulp  with  a  grapefruit  knife. 
Snip  the  connecting  cellulose  with  sharp  scissors,  and  re- 
move it  with  the  center  membrane,  leaving  the  sections  of 
pulp  whole  and  in  their  places. 

If  desired  sweet,  fill  the  centers  with  sugar  and  let 
stand  two  hours  before  serving.  If  to  be  served  without 
sugar  as  a  luncheon  appetizer,  add  a  drop  of  tabasco 
sauce  and  a  raw  oyster. 

Grapefruit,  Filled  with  Tokay  Grapes 

Allow  half  a  grapefruit  to  twelve  Tokay  grapes  for 
each  person.  Loosen  the  grapefruit  pulp,  cutting  the 
membrane  and  lifting  it  out  as  directed.  Halve  and  seed 
the  grapes.  Add  as  much  sugar  to  the  grapefruit  as  is 
desired.  Heap  on  the  Tokay  grapes  and  set  aside  for 
two  hours  —  occasionally  "  basting  "  the  grapes  with  the 
grapefruit  juice,  as  it  accumulates. 

Bananas  with  Lemon  Juice 

Wash  and  dry  the  bananas.  Cut  the  ends  off  square 
and  split  the  fruit  in  halves  lengthwise.  Divide  the  pulp 
in  the  skin  into  convenient  mouth  fuls,  sprinkle  with  lemon 
juice  and  then  plentifully  with  powdered  sugar.  Serve 
from  the  skins. 

Baked  Bananas  with  Raisins 

Peel  the  bananas  and  split  lengthwise.  Place  in  a 
baking  dish,  sprinkle  the  banana  lightly  with  sugar  and 
a  little  lemon  juice,  add  a  few  raisins  and  water  barely 
to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  dish.  Cover  and  bake  till 
tender,  about  twenty  minutes,  basting  every  five  minutes 
with  the  water  in  the  pan. 

Baked  Bananas  with  Cranberry  Syrup 

Peel  the  bananas  and  leave  them  whole.  Place  in  a 
baking  dish  and-  put  a  bit  of  butter  on  each.  Bake  in 
a  moderate  oven  twenty-five  minutes,  basting  often  with 
a  little  cranberry  syrup.  Serve  with  additional  syrup  as 
a  sauce. 


WAYS  TO   SERVE   ORANGES  :   FLOWER   FASHION,  ON   A   STRIP 

OF  PEEL,  SLICED  WITH  COCOANUT  AND  CHERRIES, 

ORANGE  CLUB  SANDWICH  AU  NATUREL 


WAYS  TO  SERVE  STRAWBERRIES:  STRAWBERRIES  AU  NATUREL, 

STRAWBERRY  CUP,   STRAWBERRY  BASKET, 

STRAWBERRY  FANCHONNETTE. 


FRUITS  147 

Fried  Bananas 

Peel  the  bananas  and  cut  in  slices  lengthwise  and  then 
crosswise.  Brown  gently  in  bacon  fat  and  serve  with 
broiled  or  baked  bacon,  or  with  lamb.  If  desired,  they 
may  be  browned  in  butter  or  a  good  vegetable  oil.  In 
the  latter  case  they  should  be  slightly  salted,  and,  if  de- 
sired, may  be  lightly  sprinkled  with  sugar,  and  a  few 
drops  of  lemon  juice. 

Pineapple  au  Naturel 

i  ripe  pineapple  Powdered  sugar 

Dissect  the  pineapple  into  sections  by  means  of  a  fork, 
separating  around  each  "  eye."  It  will  be  dissected  easily 
into  wedge-shaped  pieces.  Make  mounds  of  powdered 
sugar  on  individual  plates  by  packing  it  into  a  small  after- 
dinner  coffee  cup  or  timbale  mould;  surround  with  the 
pineapple  sections,  and  serve  garnished  with  leaves  of 
the  pineapple.  To  eat,  use  the  ringers,  dipping  the  fruit 
into  the  sugar. 

Sweetened  Pineapple 

Pare  the  pineapple  and  remove  the  eyes  with  the  pine- 
apple scissors,  then  grasp  the  crown  of  the  pineapple 
firmly  and  shred  down  the  pulp  with  a  silver  fork,  leav- 
ing the  core.  Sprinkle  liberally  with  granulated  sugar, 
add  a  dash  of  lemon  juice  if  desired,  transfer  to  a  covered 
glass  jar  and  let  chill  a  few  hours  before  serving.  If 
the  pineapple  is  not  very  juicy,  add  a  little  warm  water 
with  the  sugar. 

Pineapple  and  Fruit,  Fresh  or  Half-Frozen 

I  large  pineapple  i  pint   sliced   oranges,   sliced 

Sugar  to  taste  bananas,    sliced    pears    or 

halved  strawberries 

Cut  off  the  crown  of  the  pineapple.  Pare  away  the 
base  so  that  it  will  set  even,  and  with  a  knife  and  strong 
spoon  scoop  out  the  pulp.  Then  separate  it  from  the 
core.  Add  this  pulp  to  the  other  fruit,  sweeten  to  taste, 
put  in  a  covered  jar,  and  pack  in  three  parts  of  ice  to 
one  part  of  salt.  Let  stand  an  hour.  When  ready  to 
serve  turn  into  the  chilled  pineapple  shell  and  garnish  the 
base  with  pineapple  leaves. 


148  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Frosted  Grapes 

Select  large  Malaga  or  Tokay  grapes.  After  washing 
and  drying  rub  them  lightly  with  egg  white,  applying  it 
with  the  ringers.  Sift  granulated  sugar  over  them  so 
that  they  are  "  frosted  "  and  set  in  a  draft  of  air  to  dry. 

Use  as  a  garnish  for  fruit  cups,  grape  sherbet,  etc. 

Strawberries  au  Naturel 

Make  mounds  of  the  sugar  by  packing  it  into  small 
timbale  moulds  and  turning  out  into  the  center  of  small 
plates.  Brush  the  berries  to  remove  any  grit  (do  not 
wash  unless  absolutely  necessary)  and  do  not  remove 
the  hulls.  Place  in  a  circle  around  the  sugar  and  eat  with 
the  fingers. 

Strawberries  Italian 

Hull  the  berries,  rinse  with  cold  water  and  arrange 
in  a  jar  in  layers  with  sugar  to  sweeten.  Add  a  little 
warm  water  to  start  the  juice  and  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon  to  a  quart  of  berries.  Let  chill  several  hours  be- 
fore serving. 

To  Prepare  Blackberries,  Loganberries  and  Raspberries 

Hull  and  rinse,  arrange  in  layers  with  sugar  to  sweeten, 
add  a  little  warm  water  to  start  the  juice  and  chill  for 
two  hours. 

To  Serve  Peaches 

The  quickest  method  for  removing  the  skins  is  to  scald 
the  fruit  with  boiling  water.  If  to  stand  any  length  of 
time  before  serving,  sprinkle  with  sugar  and  a  few  drops 
of  lemon  juice  to  prevent  discoloration. 

Another  method,  when  the  peaches  are  large,  is  to  re- 
move the  skins,  cut  the  fruit  in  halves  lengthwise,  take 
out  the  stones,  heap  the  centers  with  powdered  sugar  and 
serve  the  two  halves  on  a  small  plate. 

Halved  Stuffed  Peaches 

Select  large  ripe  peaches,  peel  them,  and  cut  in  halves, 
allowing  one  peach  to  each  person.  Sprinkle  lightly  with 
powdered  sugar  and  lemon  juice,  and  fill  the  centers  of 


FRUITS  149 

each  with  chopped,  blanched  almonds  and  raspberry  jam. 
Serve  with  or  without  whipped  cream. 

Baked  Rhubarb 

£  cupful  raisins  I  pound     rhubarb,     about    2 

I  cupful  boiling  water  cupfuls  cut  in  i-inch  pieces 

I  cupful  sugar 

Do  not  skin  the  rhubarb.  Combine  it  with  the  raisins 
and  water,  and  bake  in  a  covered  dish  till  the  rhubarb 
is  soft  and  pink.  Add  the  sugar  halfway  of  the  cooking. 

Coddled  Pears 

Select  a  dozen  winter  pears,  wash  thoroughly  and  place 
in  an  open  stewpan  with  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  light 
brown  sugar,  two  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  water  and  the 
rind  of  a  lemon.  Stew  very  slowly  uncovered,  turning 
often,  for  about  two  hours.  Replenish  the  water  if  neces- 
sary. Remove  the  pears  and  cook  the  syrup  down  to  a 
thick  consistency.  Add  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice 
to  it  and  pour  over  the  pears. 

Apples  with  Cheese 

Select  apples  of  marked  flavor  and  good  color.  Serve 
well-polished,  passing  Neufchatel  or  cream  cheese.  The 
apple  is  to  be  sliced,  the  cheese  spread  upon  it  and  eaten 
by  means  of  the  ringers.  This  is  a  typical  Italian  dish. 

Broiled  Apples 

Pare  the  apples  and  core  them,  cut  in  thick,  crosswise 
slices,  dip  in  crumbs  and  melted  butter,  and  broil  gently 
until  they  are  tender. 

West  India  Baked  Apples 

Large  tart  apples  Sugar 

Bananas  Cinnamon 

Wash  apples,  remove  cores  and  cut  slices  off  the  base  so 
that  they  will  rest  evenly.  Peel  the  bananas  and  insert  a 
piece  in  place  of  the  apple  cores.  Dust  with  cinanmon, 
place  a  spoonful  of  sugar  on  top,  and  set  in  baking  dish, 
containing  a  little  water,  to  bake.  Cook  in  a  moderate 
oven,  basting  occasionally,  till  tender.  Serve  cold. 


I5o  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Baked  Apple  Sauce 

8  apples  i  cupful  water  to  cover  par- 

1  cupful  granulated  sugar  tially 

Wash,  pare  and  core  the  apples.  Cut  in  eighths.  Place 
in  a  baking  dish  or  casserole  with  the  sugar  and  water, 
cover  and  bake  till  deep  red  in  a  slow  oven.  This  will 
take  about  three  hours. 

Apples  Baked  in  Maple  Syrup 

6  apples  i  cupful  maple  syrup 

Bananas  i  cupful  water 

Lemon  peel 

Core  the  apples,  and  insert  in  each  a  piece  of  banana. 
Set  the  apples  in  a  baking  dish ;  add  the  syrup,  lemon 
peel  and  water,  cover  and  bake  gently  until  tender,  basting 
occasionally.  Remove  the  ipples,  boil  down  the  syrup 
till  it  threads,  pour  over  the  apples  and  serve  very  cold 
with  soft  custard  or  whipped  cream  flavored  with  maple 
syrup. 

Coddled  Apples 

6  medium-sized  rosy  apples  £  cupful  sugar 

2  cupfuls  boiling  water  Few  peelings  orange  rind 

Wash  the  apples  and  simmer  slowly  until  tender  in  a 
syrup  made  of  the  other  three  ingredients,  turning  the 
apples  often  so  that  they  will  cook  evenly.  When  done, 
transfer  to  a  platter,  and  boil  down  the  syrup  until  it  is 
thick  and  dark.  Pour  over  the  apples.  Serve  very  cold 
with  plain  or  whipped  cream,  or  boiled  custard.  Remove 
the  orange  rind  before  the  syrup  is  boiled  down. 

Apple  Cups  with.  Rice 

6  rosy  apples  i  cupful  soft  custard,  if  de- 

i  cupful  sugar  sired 

i  cupful  boiled  brown  or  un- 
coated  rice 

Wash  the  apples,  cut  off  the  tops,  and  with  a  small 
sharp  teaspoon  remove  the  centers  forming  cups.  Cook 
gently  in  a  syrup  of  2  cupfuls  of  water  to  i  cupful  of 
sugar,  until  tender.  Carefully  shape  and  fill  the  centers 
with  boiled  rice.  Pour  over  the  syrup  from  the  apples, 


FRUITS  151 

which  has  been  simmered  until  thick.     Cool  and  serve 
with  whipped  cream. 

Apples,  Cranberry  Style 

Select  perfect  apples,  core  them  and  fill  the  spaces  with 
cranberry  conserve  or  jelly.  Bake  gently,  basting  fre- 
quently with  a  syrup  made  of  equal  parts  of  sugar  and 
water.  When  tender,  transfer  to  a  serving-dish  and  pour 
over  them  the  syrup  which  should  be  thick  enough  to  jelly. 
Chill  the  apples,  and  serve  with  whipped  cream  flavored 
with  sifted  cranberry  sauce ;  use  one-fourth  cupful  of  this 
to  one  cupful  of  heavy  cream,  sweetened  to  taste. 

Stewed  Plums  with  Chestnuts 

i*  cupfuls  sugar  ii  cupfuls  boiled  chestnuts 

2&  lemons  2  dozen  purple  plums 

ii  cupfuls  water 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  for  ten  minutes ;  then 
add  the  lemon,  sliced  thin,  and  the  plums,  cooking  gently 
till  they  are  tender.  Remove  the  plums  and  cook  down 
the  syrup  one-half.  In  the  meantime  remove  the  shells 
from  the  chestnuts,  add  to  the  syrup  when  it  is  done  and 
pour  over  the  plums.  Serve  very  cold. 

Fruit  Cups  or  Cocktails 

Fruit  Cups  or  Cocktails  may  be  made  of  almost  any 
fruit  in  combination  with  one  or  two  others,  if  properly 
sweetened  and  flavored.  As  the  portions  should  be  small, 
not  more  than  two  tablespoonfuls  of  fruit  and  juice  to 
a  person,  the  fruit  cocktail  can  often  be  made  of  materials 
which  are  on  hand.  In  many  instances,  as  with  currants 
and  other  fruits  which  are  very  acid,  the  smoothness 
of  the  cocktail  depends  upon  a  little  preliminary  cooking. 
For  instance,  to  make  a  cocktail  of  a  cupful  of  currants, 
a  few  raspberries  and  a  little  mint,  sugar,  in  proportion 
to  the  acidity  of  the  currants,  should  be  combined  with 
them  together  with  a  little  tepid  water,  not  more  than  two 
tablespoonfuls,  and  the  whole  gently  cooked  for  about 
five  minutes.  If  this  is  done,  the  fruit  may  be  kept  for 
several  days,  the  raw  raspberries  and  a  trace  of  mint  be- 
ing added  at  least  two  hours  before  serving  time  so  that 
the  flavors  may  become  blended.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  put 


152  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

the  cocktail  together  in  a  glass  jar  early  in  the  day  and 
let  it  stand  next  to  the  ice  till  serving-time.  If  raw  fruits 
entirely  are  to  be  used,  they  should  be  allowed  to  stand 
in  a  syrup  made  of  a  cupful  of  sugar  to  a  half  cupful  of 
water  to  insure  smoothness  of  flavor.  Many  fruits  are 
greatly  improved  by  the  addition  of  a  little  lemon  juice 
—  not  enough  to  make  the  cocktail  sour,  but  just  a  dash 
to  heighten  the  natural  flavor.  Various  combinations  of 
fruits,  suitable  to  use  in  cocktails,  are : 

1.  Blackberries  and  sugar  syrup  (as  above)  with  nut- 
meg and  lemon  juice  to  season. 

2.  Red  raspberries,  diced  oranges  and  sugar  syrup. 

3.  Shredded  fresh  pineapple,  with  stoned  cherries  and 
sugar  syrup,  or  diced  oranges  and  syrup,  with  or  without 
a  trace  of  mint. 

4.  Small  cubes  or  tiny  balls  of  watermelon,  diced  pine- 
apple, syrup  and  lemon  juice  to  taste. 

5.  Cubed  canteloupe,  with  sugar  syrup,  nutmeg  and 
lemon  juice  to  taste,  if  desired. 

6.  Blackberries,  syrup  and  diced  banana. 

7.  Diced  peaches,  syrup,  minced  angelica,  a  few  stoned 
cherries  and  a  little  diced  orange. 

Grapefruit  Cup  No.  I 

Remove  the  pulp  from  three  large  grapefruit.  Cut 
each  section  in  thirds,  or  halves,  according  to  size. 
Sprinkle  with  sugar  and  chill.  Serve  plain  or  with  a 
garnish  of  mint  leaves,  with  one  tablespoonful  of  grape 
juice  poured  over  each  serving. 

Grapefruit  Cup  No.  II 

3  grapefruit  $  cupful    seeded    and    quar- 

6  Maraschino  cherries,  tered  Malaga  grapes 

shredded  I  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 
6  tablespoonfuls  sugar 

Peel  the  grapefruit  and  remove  the  sections,  cutting 
each  one  in  thirds ;  add  the  sugar,  grapes  and  lemon  juice 
and  let  stand,  covered,  one  hour  in  a  cold  place  to  ripen. 
Pour  into  frappe  glasses  and  decorate  with  shredded  cher- 
ries. 


FRUITS  153 

Grapefruit  Cup  No.  Ill 

2  large  grapefruit  4  tablespoonfnls  candied  gin- 
Granulated  sugar  ger 

4  canned-pear  halves 

Prepare  the  grapefruit  and  cut  the  pulp  in  small  pieces. 
Sweeten  and  add  the  other  ingredients  and  let  stand  in 
a  cold  place  to  chill.  Serve  in  glass  cups,  and  sprinkle 
with  a  little  extra  ginger  for  a  garnish. 

Orange  Mint  Cocktail 

6  oranges   cut   into   sections,  i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

all     membrane    being    re-          6  sprigs   mint 
moved  Powdered  sugar 

3  tablespoonfuls   fresh  mint, 
minced 

Mix  together  the  orange  sections,  minced  mint  and 
lemon  juice  with  sugar  to  sweeten.  Let  stand  at  least 
two  hours  in  a  cold  place,  then  divide  into  six  cocktail 
glasses,  or  small  sherbet  glasses,  and  garnish  each  serving 
with  a  sprig  of  mint. 

Prune  and  Orange  Cup 

18  cooked  prunes  3  oranges 

Halve  the  oranges  and  remove  the  pulp  with  a  spoon. 
Remove  the  stones  from  the  prunes  and  cut  the  prunes  in 
thirds.  Mix  with  the  orange  pulp;  add  a  little  sugar  if 
necessary  and  let  chill.  In  the  meantime  wash  the  orange 
shells  well  and  dry  them.  Re-fill  with  the  mixture,  and 
serve  on  plates  covered  with  paper  doilies. 

Watermelon  Cup 

To  each  pint  of  watermelon  balls  (made  with  a  French 
potato  scoop)  add  J  cupful  of  sugar,  -J  tablespoonful 
lemon  juice,  six  minced  Maraschino  cherries,  and  six 
cooked  raisins.  Let  stand  to  become  very  cold  and  serve 
in  frappe  glasses. 

Banana  Cup 

6  ripe  bananas  6  tablespoonfuls  powdered 

2  grapefruit  (pulp  and  juice)  sugar 

2  oranges  6  candied  cherries 


i54  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Peel  the  bananas  and  form  into  tiny  balls  with  a 
French  potato  cutter.  Remove  the  pulp  from  the  oranges 
and  grapefruit,  cut  in  bits  and  add  to  the  balls  with  all 
available  fruit  juice.  Add  the  sugar  and  let  the  mixture 
stand  until  well-chilled ;  serve  in  high  sherbet  cups.  Gar- 
nish with  the  cherries.  Use  the  banana  pulp  remaining 
from  the  balls  toward  a  dessert  for  the  next  day.  (See 
Banana  Bavarian  Cream.) 

Summer  Fruit  Cup 

Let  slices  of  peeled  peaches,  bits  of  prepared  pineap- 
ple, stoned  cherries,  white  grapes,  seeded  and  skinned,  and 
orange  juice,  stand  in  their  own  juice  and  syrup  to  half 
cover,  until  thoroughly  chilled.  Serve  in  tall  glasses,  as 
an  appetizer,  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  any  fruit  sherbet 
or  water-ice. 

Fig  Fruit  Cup 

2  cupfuls    cooked    figs,    cut  i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

into  bits  I  cupful  quartered  marsh- 

i  cupful  peaches,  cut  into  mallows 
bits 

Mix  thoroughly.  Let  stand  in  a  cold  place  two  hours, 
and  serve  with  or  without  whipped  cream.  Use  only  as 
a  dessert. 

Cantaloupe  Cup 

Wash  small  melons,  cut  in  halves  crosswise,  scrape  out 
the  seeds,  scoop  out  the  pulp  with  a  spoon.  To  each 
cupful  of  pulp  add  an  equal  quantity  of  shredded  pine- 
apple, J  cupful  of  currant  or  raspberry  jam,  i  tablespoon- 
ful lemon  juice,  a  grating  of  nutmeg  and  sugar  to  taste. 
Let  stand,  covered,  for  two  hours  in  the  ice-box.  Re- 
fill the  shells  and  serve  individually,  each  on  a  grape  leaf. 
If  desirable,  the  fruit  may  be  chilled  in  an  ice-cream 
freezer  with  one-quarter  as  much  salt  as  ice. 

It  should  not  be  allowed  to  remain  more  than  two  hours 
as  it  will  turn  to  ice. 

Fruit  Soups 

Fruit  soups  are  made  of  sifted,  stewed  fruit,  sweetened, 
thickened  with  corn  starch,  arrowroot  or  tapioca  to  the 


FRUITS  155 

consistency  of  a  cream  soup,  sweetened  to  taste  while 
hot,  and  flavored  with  a  dash  of  lemon  juice,  or  a  little 
spice.  They  are  then  chilled  and  served  in  tiny  bowls, 
or  bouillon  cups,  as  appetizers,  or  in  glasses  as  informal 
desserts  or  for  the  children's  supper. 

General  Directions  for  Fruit  Soups 

Currants,  cherries,  raspberries,  blueberries  and  grapes, 
as  well  as  rhubarb  and  strawberries,  may  be  used.  As 
much  water  again  may  be  added  over  that  generally  used 
in  the  plain  stewing  of  fruit.  A  tablespoonful  of  corn 
starch  or  arrowroot,  dissolved  in  a  little  cold  water,  should 
be  used  to  thicken  each  pint  of  liquid.  Sugar  and  a  few 
grains  of  salt  may  be  added  to  taste.  A  tablespoonful 
of  pearl  tapioca,  or  a  half  tablespoonful  of  quick  tapioca, 
should  be  used  to  each  cupful  and  a  half  of  "  soup  "  if 
this  thickening  is  chosen. 

DRIED  FRUITS 

During  the  winter  months,  when  fresh  fruits  are  ex- 
pensive and,  in  some  cases,  not  to  be  obtained,  the  dried 
fruit  fills  the  breach,  offering  in  great  variety  the  miner- 
als and  acids  that  are  necessary  to  sustenance.  It  is  not 
generally  known  that  during  the  process  of  evaporation 
all  fruits  undergo  a  slight  chemical  change  increasing  the 
amount  of  sugar  which  they  contain.  The  reason  that 
dried  fruit  sauces  frequently  taste  insipid  is  because  this 
latent  sugar  is  entirely  ignored,  the  sauce  being  sweet- 
ened until  the  tart  fruit  flavor  is  entirely  overcome. 
Prunes,  for  instance,  contain  a  large  percentage  of  sugar, 
almost  identical  with  cane  sugar,  yet  the  majority  of 
housewives  add  an  excess  amount  ,of  sweetening,  and 
then  say  that  "  Their  family  will  not  eat  prunes."  Really 
good  cooking  consists  in  developing  natural  flavors,  and 
well-cooked  dried  fruits  are  redolent  with  their  own  de- 
liciousness.  Just  as  lemon  juice  is  frequently  added  to 
brighten  fresh  pineapple,  or  orange  juice  to  strawberries, 
the  evaporated  fruits  are  often  made  more  sparkling  by 
the  addition  of  other  flavors.  Ground  cinnamon  or  cloves 
may  be  occasionally  used  with  prunes,  ginger  root  or 
candied  ginger  with  pears,  while  orange  and  lemon  rind 


156  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

and  juice,  or  a  little  tart  jelly,  are  additions  to  all  varie- 
ties. 

General  Directions  for  Cooking  Dried  Fruits 

The  dried  fruits  in  common  winter  use  are  pears, 
peaches,  apricots,  prunes,  loganberries,  strawberries  and 
figs,  while  dates  have  a  definite  place  in  combination  with 
other  materials.  Only  the  sun-  or  home-dried  varieties 
should  be  used.  Because  of  the  tough  skin,  it  is  usually 
necessary  to  soften  and  cook  them  before  they  appear  in 
any  way.  First  of  all,  they  must  be  washed  thoroughly, 
then  submerged  in  warm  water  for  twelve  hours  in  a  cov- 
ered utensil.  At  the  end  of  this  time  they  will  have  swol- 
len to  their  original  shape,  and,  although  uncooked,  are 
already  tender.  The  cooking  may  be  done  in  three  ways 
— in  the  double  boiler,  in  a  crock  in  the  oven,  or  in  the 
fireless  cooker.  In  any  case  the  water  in  which  they  are 
soaked  serves  as  the  liquid,  the  seasoning,  as  orange  rind 
or  spice,  is  put  in  at  the  beginning  of  the  process;  the 
liquid  must  not  boil,  and  the  sugar  is  not  added  until  the 
last  half  hour.  As  a  general  rule,  not  less  than  two 
hours  should  be  allowed  for  cooking  prunes,  apricots  and 
peaches,  while  pears  and  figs  are  improved  by  three  or 
four  hours'  time.  Loganberries  may  be  cooked  in  an 
hour.  Like  most  of  the  dried  fruits,  prunes  and  figs  are 
laxative,  partly  because  of  their  coarse  skin,  and  partly 
because  of  marked  purgative  properties. 


Stewed  Prunes 

i  pound  prunes  Rind  of  half  an  orange 

Water    to    cover  —  about    3          £  cupful  sugar  (if  desired) 
cupfuls 

Wash  the  prunes,  brush  and  soak  over  night  in  cold 
water  to  cover;  in  the  morning  add  the  orange  rind  and 
bring  very  slowly  to  boiling  point,  then  set  back  on  the 
range  and  let  cook  slowly  for  two  hours.  Add  sugar,  if 
desired,  after  an  hour  and  a  half  of  cooking.  Or,  after 
reaching  boiling  point,  put  in  a  double  boiler  and  let  cook 
three  hours. 


FRUITS  157 

Thickened  Prunes 

1  cupful   prunes  il  tablespoonfuls  corn  starch 

2  cupfuls  water  or   arrowroot    or    2   table- 
i  cupful  sugar  spoonfuls  quick  tapioca 
Few  grains  salt  A    few    shavings    of    orange 

rind 
i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

Wash  the  prunes  and  soak  for  twenty-four  hours  in 
two  cupfuls  of  water.  Add  the  orange  rind  and  salt,  and 
cook  the  prunes  until  nearly  tender.  Add  the  sugar  and 
finish  cooking.  Skim  out  the  prunes  from  the  syrup. 
There  should  be  one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  liquid  left. 
If  there  is  not,  add  boiling  water  to  make  up  the  balance. 
Thicken  with  the  corn  starch  dissolved  in  a  little  cold 
water,  and  let  boil  up.  Add  the  lemon  juice.  Remove 
the  stones  from  the  prunes.  Add  the  prune  syrup  to  the 
fruit  and  serve  hot  on  French  toast,  or  ice  cold,  plain  or 
with  whipped  cream. 

Pickled  Prunes 

1  pound  small  prunes  i  teaspoonful  allspice 
Juice  and  rind  two  lemons               2  peppercorns 

4  blades  mace  2  cupfuls  sugar 

2  teaspoonfuls  whole  cloves  i  cupful  vinegar 

Wash  the  prunes  and  put  on  to  cook  in  one  quart  of 
water.  Add  the  lemon  rind,  and  the  spices  tied  in  a  cloth, 
and  simmer  for  two  hours,  replenishing  the  water  as  it 
evaporates.  Add  the  sugar  and  cook  an  hour  longer,  turn 
in  the  vinegar  and  lemon  juice  and  boil  for  five  minutes. 
Cool  and  serve  with  game,  poultry  or  roast  lamb. 

Baked  Figs 

i  pound  pulled  or  layer  figs  i  cupful  sugar 

Rind  and  juice  i  orange  Dash  salt 

Wash  the  figs  thoroughly  and  soak  over  night  in  water 
to  cover.  Place  in  an  earthen  dish,  with  salt  and  the 
grated  orange  rind,  and  bake  very  gently  for  three  hours. 
Then  add  the  sugar,  cool,  add  the  orange  juice,  and  serve 
with  or  without  whipped  cream. 

Marshmallow  Figs 
Wash  pulled  figs  and  let  stand  over  night  in  water  to 


158  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

cover.  In  the  morning  cook  in  the  same  water  in  a 
double  boiler  till  tender  (or  bake,  as  directed  in  previous 
recipe)  ;  add  a  little  candied  orange  peel.  When  done, 
remove  and  simmer  down  the  syrup  directly  over  the  fire. 
Cut  a  slit  in  each  fig,  and  insert  half  a  marshmallow. 
Arrange  in  high  sherbet  glasses,  pour  over  the  syrup,  and 
serve  very  cold,  with  or  without  whipped  cream. 

Stewed  Figs 

i  pound  pulled  or  dried  figs  i  cupful  sugar 

Juice  i  lemon 

Wash  the  figs  and  put  in  a  double  boiler  top,  with  cold 
water  barely  to  cover.  Let  stand  twelve  hours,  then 
set  over  hot  water  and  cook  gently  until  tender.  Remove 
the  figs,  add  the  sugar  to  the  remaining  liquid  and  boil 
hard  for  ten  minutes.  Cool,  add  lemon  juice  and  pour 
over  figs. 

Stewed  Dried  Pears 

i  pound  dried  pears  Juice  and  rind  \  lemon 

I  cupful  brown  sugar  i  quart  cold  water 

Wash  the  pears;  put  to  soak  for  twelve  hours  in  the 
water  to  become  soft.  Then  set  over  a  low  heat  to  sim- 
mer, cooking  with  the  lemon  rind  until  nearly  tender; 
sweeten,  cook  ten  minutes  longer,  cool  and  add  the  lemon 
juice. 

Dried  Apricot  Jam 

1  pound  dried  apricots  Water 

2  lemons  Granulated  sugar 
i  orange 

Soak  the  apricots  over  night  with  the  sliced  orange  and 
lemon  rind  and  pulp ;  then  stew  very  slowly,  until  soft,  in 
the  same  water  barely  to  cover;  sift  through  a  coarse 
colander  and  add  two-thirds  as  much  granulated  sugar  as 
apricot  pulp.  Simmer  down  very  slowly  till  of  the  con- 
sistency of  apple  butter  or  jam,  then  seal  in  sterilized 
glasses. 


CHAPTER  IV 
CEREALS 

ALL    MEASUREMENTS    ARE    LEVEL 

GENERAL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  COOKING 
CEREALS 

In  preparing  cereals  put  the  right  amount  of  boiling 
water  into  the  upper  part  of  the  double  boiler,  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  to  each  pint  of  water  and,  when  this  is 
boikng  rapidly,  stir  in  the  necessary  amount  of  cereal 
with  a  fork  so  slowly  that  the  liquid  does  not  stop  boiling, 
for  if  this  happens  the  cereal  is  liable  to  fall  to  the  bottom 
of  the  utensil  and  the  grains  stick  together,  causing 
lumps.  The  cereal  will  have  to  be  stirred  occasionally 
during  the  direct  cookery,  which  should  last  fifteen 
minutes.  The  method  of  cooking  over  the  direct  flame  is 
used  quickly  to  burst  the  grains,  so  that  the  starch  may 
come  at  once  in  contact  with  the  boiling  water  and  receive 
its  fair  quota  of  cookery.  It  may  then  be  set  over  the 
lower  part  of  the  double  boiler  containing  boiling  water 
and  be  allowed  to  cook  the  remaining  time  designated  in 
the  following  table. 

If  desired,  the  first  cookery  may  be  done  at  night  while 
the  dishes  are  being  washed,  and  be  finished  in  the  morn- 
ing. If  a  long-time  cereal  is  to  be  prepared,  it  may  be 
entirely  cooked  the  day  before,  left  in  the  double  boiler 
with  the  lid  on  to  prevent  the  formation  of  crust,  and,  in 
the  morning,  a  little  hot  water  poured  over  the  top,  and 
the  cereal  gradually  heated.  When  it  is  hot,  it  may  be 
gently  stirred  with  a  fork  and  the  hot  water  will  slowly 
diffuse  into  the  cereal,  making  it  soft  but  not  lumpy. 
This  same  process  may  be  employed  in  re-heating  left- 
over cereals  for  the  next  day's  use. 


i6o 


MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 


Kind  Quantity        Salt          Water 

cupfuls  teaspoonfuls  cupfuls 

i  2s 

2i  2i 

ii 


Farina 

Rolled  Oats 

Rice  Steamed 

Brown  Rice  Steamed 

Plain  Boiled  Rice 

Brown  Rice  Boiled 

Whole  Oatmeal 

Fine  Hominy 

Coarse  Hominy  or  Samp 

Cornmeal 

Bran 


3! 


ii 
i| 


2 

i4 


5 

4^ 

3 

3 

4^ 

4i 

4 

3 

4 

6 

3 


Time 

45  minutes 

45  minutes 

45  minutes 

45  minutes 

25  minutes 

45  minutes 

3  hours 

I  hour 

3  hours 

3  hours 

5  hours 


The  many  steam-cooked  and  "  partly-cooked  "  cereals 
on  the  market  should  be  cooked  one  hour  despite  the 
directions  on  the  package. 

Fried  Meat  Mush 

Prepare  cornmeal  mush  by  adding  a  scant  cupful  of 
home-ground  cornmeal  to  a  quart  of  boiling  water  con- 
taining il/2  teaspoonfuls  of  salt.  Let  it  cook  slowly  for 
thirty  minutes,  then  add  a  generous  pinch  of  sage  leaves, 
and  from  one  to  two  cupfuls  of  minced  cold  meat  —  beef, 
lamb,  ham,  or  veal,  left-over  cooked  sausage  or  bacon, 
or  a  mixture  of  them.  Pour  into  a  small  bread  tin  or 
pound  baking  powder  cans  and  let  stiffen.  Unmould,  dip 
in  flour,  and  fry  either  in  deep  fat  or  in  bacon  drippings. 

Fried  Cornmeal  Mush 

I  quart  boiling  water  I  teaspoonful  salt 

Home-ground  cornmeal  A  little  sage 

Make  an  ordinary  thick  mush  of  the  boiling  water  and 
cornmeal.  Season  with  the  salt  and  pour  in  a  shallow 
pan  to  stiffen.  Then  dip  in  a  beaten  egg  diluted  with  half 
a  cupful  of  milk  ;  then  in  fine  dry  crumbs,  and  fry  in  bacon 
fat,  or  in  deep  fat.  Serve  with  crisp  bacon.  Or  omit  the 
sage,  fry  in  deep  fat  and  serve  with  syrup. 


4  cupfuls  boiling  water 
ii  teaspoonfuls  salt 
Light  cream 


Mush,  Hunter's  Style 

I  cupful  home-ground  corn- 
meal 
Scraped  maple  sugar 


Add  the  salt  to  the  water,  then  gradually  sprinkle  in 


CEREALS  161 

the  cornmeal.  Let  cook  fifteen  minutes  over  a  free 
flame ;  then  forty-five  minutes  in  a  double  boiler.  Serve 
with  cream  and  scraped  maple  sugar. 

Hominy  and  Nut  Roll 

if  cupfuls  chopped  English  I  teaspoonful  pepper 

walnut  meats  i  cupful  fine  dry  bread 
I  cupful  hominy  (coarse)  crumbs 

ii  cupfuls  milk  (scalded)  i  teaspoonful  minced  parsley 

i  hard-cooked  egg  ii  teaspoonfuls  onion  juice 
i  teaspoonful  salt 

Combine  the  salt  and  milk  and  cook  until  soft  in  a 
double  boiler.  Chop  the  egg  and  walnuts  and  add  with 
other  ingredients  to  the  hominy.  Season  well  to  taste 
and  form  into  a  six-inch  roll.  Cover  with  buttered  crumbs. 
Dot  with  bits  of  butter  or  oleomargarine  and  bake  one- 
half  hour  in  a  moderate  oven,  basting  occasionally  with  2 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  (or  substitute)  melted  in  J/£ 
cup  of  hot  water.  Serve  very  hot  with  nut  sauce. 

Fried  Hominy 

Pour  cooked  hominy  into  baking  powder  cans  that  are 
well-oiled.  Let  stiffen ;  turn  out,  dip  in  flour  and  fry  in 
beef  drippings,  bacon  or  ham  fat  or  deep  fat  till  browned. 

Hominy  Omelet 

3  cupfuls  cooked  coarse  horn-          2  cupfuls   well-seasoned 

iny  or  samp  thickened  stewed  tomatoes 

Bacon  or  sausage  fat 

Melt  the  fat  in  a  large  frying  pan,  spread  in  the 
hominy,  pack  it  down,  and  fry  gently  until  well  browned. 
Then  spread  half  of  the  tomato  mixture  on  this,  fold  it 
over,  slide  onto  a  platter  and  serve  surrounded  by  the  re- 
maining tomato.  To  make  this  into  a  substantial  supper 
or  luncheon  dish,  garnish  it  with  cooked  sausages  or 
bacon. 

Plain  Macaroni 

1  cupful  macaroni,  broken  in          I  teaspoonful  salt 
i-inch  pieces  ii  cupfuls  white  sauce 

2  quarts  boiling  water 

Cook   the    macaroni    in    boiling    salted    water    twenty 


162  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

minutes,  or  until  soft,  and  drain  in  strainer;  cold  water 
may  be  poured  over  it  to  keep  the  pieces  from  adhering, 
but  if  this  is  done  food  value  is  lost;  add  to  the  white 
sauce.  Re-heat  and  serve. 

Baked  Macaroni  and  Cheese 

Put  a  layer  of  boiled  macaroni  in  a  buttered  baking 
dish,  sprinkle  with  grated  cheese,  add  a  second  layer  of 
macaroni  and  cheese,  and  pour  over  White  Sauce  No.  2, 
cover  with  buttered  crumbs  and  bake  till  the  crumbs  are 
browned. 

Macaroni  with  Tomatoes 

I  teaspoonful  minced  onion  ii  cupfuls  sifted  stewed  to- 

i  tablespoonful  bacon  fat  matoes 

I  tablespoonful  flour  \  teaspoonful  salt 

i  pint  boiled  macaroni 

Cook  the  onion  in  the  fat  until  slightly  browned.  Add 
the  flour  and  gradually  the  tomato  and  salt,  making  a 
sauce.  Stir  in  the  macaroni,  an/d  re-heat  before  serving. 
One-half  cupful  of  grated  cheese  is  a  pleasant  and  nutri- 
tious addition. 

Macaroni  with  Asparagus 

2%  cupfuls  cooked  macaroni  4  tablespoonfuls  flour 

i  bunch  cooked  asparagus  4  tablespoonfuls   butter 

i  cupful  asparagus  water  i  teaspoonful  salt 

i  cupful  milk  4  teaspoonful  pepper 
^  cupful  buttered  crumbs 

Make  a  sauce  of  the  flour,  butter,  seasonings,  aspara- 
gus water  (saved  from  cooking  the  asparagus)  and  the 
milk.  Cut  the  asparagus  in  inch  lengths.  Put  a  layer  of 
the  macaroni  in  a  buttered  baking  dish,  then  one  of  as- 
paragus and  the  sauce,  repeating  until  the  dish  is  filled. 
Finish  with  the  crumbs  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  till 
browned. 

Macaroni  Winchester 

2^  cupfuls  cooked  macaroni  i  tablespoonful  flour 

i  can  of  mushrooms,  or  4  tablespoonfuls  butter 

i  cupful     fresh     mushrooms  Few  grains  nutmeg 

cut  in  quarters  Buttered  crumbs 

i£  cupfuls  chicken  stock  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
Few  drops  onion  juice 


'  CEREALS  163 

Drain  and  rinse  the  mushrooms  and  cut  in  quarters. 
Saute  (fry)  till  soft  (about  five  minutes)  in  the  butter, 
and  season  with  a  bit  of  nutmeg.  Add  the  flour  and 
onion  juice  to  this,  and  gradually  the  chicken  stock.  Let 
boil,  turn  in  the  macaroni  and  put  in  buttered  ramekins. 
Sprinkle  crumbs  over  the  top  and  bake  till  brown  in  a 
quick  oven. 

Macaroni,  Brooklyn  Style 

2\  cupfuls  cooked  macaroni  i  teaspoonful  minced  pars- 
2  cupfuls  chicken,  or  any  ley 

meat  stock  Few  drops  onion  juice 

2  tablespoon fuls  flour  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  6  eggs 

Grated  cheese 

Make  a  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour,  parsley  and  stock  as 
usual.  Add  the  cooked  macaroni,  and  half-fill  buttered 
ramekins  with  the  mixture.  Very  carefully  break  a  raw 
egg  in  each,  dust  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  grating  of 
cheese,  and  set  in  the  oven  till  firm.  Serve  very  hot. 

Macaroni  Custard 

3  cupfuls  cooked  macaroni  ii  teaspoonfuls  salt 
2  cupfuls  milk                                    £  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  eggs  i  teaspoonful  melted  butter 

Heat  the  milk,  add  the  butter  and  seasonings,  and  pour 
onto  the  eggs,  slightly  beaten.  Put  the  macaroni  in  a 
baking-dish,  pour  on  the  milk  mixture,  stand  in  a  pan  of 
hot  water,  and  bake  gently  till  "  set "  or  firm  in  the  mid- 
dle. This  will  take  about  thirty  minutes. 

Macaroni  on  Toast 

ii  cupfuls   macaroni,   cut   in  ii  tablespoonfuls  flour 

inch  lengths  i  teaspoonful  salt 

ii  cupfuls  strained  tomato  \  teaspoonful  pepper 

juice  i  cupful  cooked  meat,  diced 

ii  tablespoonfuls  bacon  fat  Buttered  toast 

Cook  the  macaroni  in  ample  boiling  salted  water  until 
tender.  Make  a  sauce  of  the  bacon  fat,  flour,  salt,  pepper 
and  tomato  juice  and  let  boil.  Add  the  cooked  macaroni 
and  the  meat,  and  serve  on  toast. 


164  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Spaghetti  Italian 

1  pound  spaghetti  i  can  Italian  tomato  paste 
\  cupful  olive  oil                              Water 

3  cloves  garlic  Parmesan  cheese 

Boil  the  spaghetti,  until  tender,  in  salted  water,  then 
drain.  In  the  meantime  fry  the  garlic  till  yellowed  in  the 
olive  oil.  Combine  the  tomato  paste  with  an  equal 
amount  of  water,  add  to  the  garlic  and  oil  and  simmer 
until  thick.  Season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  Pour 
this  sauce  over  the  spaghetti  and  serve  with  plenty  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese. 

Spaghetti  Italian  with  Meat  Sauce 

Observe  the  proportions  in  the  preceding  recipe,  with 
this  addition  —  gently  fry  three  veal  chops  with  the  oil 
and  garlic,  adding  a  little  salt.  Shred  the  meat  and  add  it 
to  the  tomato  sauce. 

Spaghetti  with  Broiled  Ham 

2\  cupfuls  cooked  spaghetti  i\  cupfuls  canned  tomato 

2  tablespoon fuls  ham  fat  juice 

i  teaspoonful  minced  onion  i  teaspoonful  Worcestershire 

I  tablespoonful  flour  i  teaspoonful  salt 

\  cupful  grated  cheese  Few  grains  cayenne 

Make  a  sauce  by  melting  the  ham  fat,  and  cooking  the 
onion  in  it  until  soft,  adding  the  flour,  seasonings,  and 
gradually  the  tomato  juice.  Turn  in  the  spaghetti,  add 
the  cheese,  let  stand  to  become  very  hot,  and  serve  with 
thin  slices  of  broiled  ham  as  a  garnish. 

Spaghetti  Garden  Style 

I  pound  spaghetti  i  cupful  fresh,  or  canned, 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  peas 

3  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  i  cupful    fresh,    or    canned, 
large  onion  (sliced)  string  beans 

carrot  (diced)  I  cupful  canned  tomato  juice 
turnip  (diced)  4  tablespoonfuls  grated  Par- 
stalk  celery   (diced)  mesan  cheese 
tablespoonful  minced  pars-  Salt  and  pepper 
ley 

Fry  the  onion  until  yellowed  in  the  oil.  Add  the  butter 
and,  when  melted,  all  the  other  vegetables,  except  the  peas 
and  string  beans,  if  they  are  canned.  Cook  the  mixture 


CEREALS  165 

gently  until  the  vegetables  are  done,  then  add  the  canned 
peas  and  beans  if  they  are  used.  Season  to  taste  and 
pour  over  the  spaghetti,  which  should  be  boiled  and 
drained.  Arrange  on  a  platter  and  sprinkle  with  the 
cheese. 

Spaghetti  alia  Genoese 

1  pound  spaghetti  3  cloves  garlic,  minced 
4  tablespoonfuls  butter  5  anchovies 

3  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  Grated  Parmesan  cheese 

Boil  and  drain  the  spaghetti  as  usual.  In  the  meantime 
prepare  a  sauce  by  frying  the  garlic  in  the  olive  oil,  and 
adding  the  butter  when  the  garlic  is  yellow.  Bone  the 
anchovies,  shred  them  and  add  to  the  sauce.  Pour  over 
the  heated  spaghetti,  mix  well  and  pass  the  cheese. 

Noodles 

2  eggs  Water 
i  teaspoonful  salt  Flour 

Break  the  eggs  in  a  bowl  and  add  two  egg-shells  full  of 
cold  water.  Stir  in  the  salt  and  work  in  sifted  flour  to 
make  a  dough  the  consistency  of  pie  crust.  Knead  a  lit- 
tle, roll  into  a  large  sheet  of  pasteboard  thickness,  cover 
with  a  cloth  and  let  dry  for  thirty  minutes.  Then  roll 
like  jelly  roll  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  the  noodles  into 
thin  strips.  Use  at  once,  or  dry  further  if  they  are  to  be 
stored. 

Noodles  and  Tomato  Sauce 

Boil  the  noodles  until  tender  in  salted  water  and  turn 
the  liquid  into  the  stock-pot  or  use  toward  a  cream  soup. 
Re-heat  the  noodles  in  tomato  sauce  and  serve  with 
steamed  frankfurters,  baked  bacon  or  sausages,  or  ac- 
companied with  grated  cheese. 

Creamed  Noodles 

Boil  the  noodles  in  salted  water,  drain  them  and  re-heat 
in  White  Sauce  No.  2,  allowing  a  cupful  of  sauce  to  two 
and  a  half  cupfuls  of  cooked  noodles. 

Noodles  in  Cheese  Sauce 
Boil  the  noodles  in  salted  water  till  tender,  drain,  re- 


i66  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

heat  in  cheese  sauce  and  serve  with  or  without  a  garnish 
of  bacon. 

Fried  Noodles  No.  1 

Drop  the  freshly  made  noodles  into  deep  fat  hot  enough 
to  brown  a  bit  of  bread  in  a  minute.  Fry  until  golden 
brown,  then  drain  on  crumpled  paper. 

Fried  Noodles  No.  2 

Plain  boil  the  noodles  in  salted  water,  drain  and  chill 
them;  chop  coarsely  and  fry  until  brown  in  savory  drip- 
pings. This  is  a  good  way  to  use  up  left-over  noodles  as  a 
vegetable. 

Cinnamon  Noodles 

Boil  the  noodles  in  milk.  When  tender  drain,  season 
with  butter,  dust  them  with  cinnamon  and  serve  hot  with 
sugar.  Or  boil  them  in  salted  water,  drain,  dust  with 
cinnamon  and  serve  with  sugar  and  light  cream. 

To  Blanch  Rice 

Put  the  rice  over  a  hot  fire  in  a  large  saucepan  of  cold 
water  and  stir  occasionally  while  it  is  heating.  Let  boil 
five  minutes,  then  drain,  and  let  cold  water  from  the  fau- 
cet run  through  it.  The  rice  is  now  white  and  clean,  and 
the  grains  do  not  stick  to  each  other.  Then  proceed  to 
boil  as  usual.  However,  this  is  a  wasteful  method, —  and 
absolutely  unnecessary  unless  coated  rice  is  used. 

Buttered  Rice 

3  cupfuls  boiled  brown  or  1  cupful  melted  butter 

uncoated  rice 

Add  the  butter  to  the  rice ;  mix  well  with  a  fork,  set  in 
the  oven  to  re-heat  for  a  few  minutes  and  serve  at  once. 

Curry  of  Rice 

I  cupful  brown  or  uncoated          4  tablespoonfuls   butter 

rice  i  teaspoonful  curry 

i$  teaspoonfuls  salt 

Boil  the  rice  rapidly  in  ample  salted  water  to  cover. 
Drain,  reserving  the  liquor  towards  a  soup,  and  either 
dry  the  rice  in  the  oven,  or  steam  until  dry.  Then  add 


CEREALS  167 

the   butter   and   curry,   creamed   together,   stirring  it   in 
lightly  with  a  fork.     Serve  very  hot. 

Savory  Kice 

1  cupful   brown  or   uncoated  ij  teaspoonfuls  salt 
rice  &  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls  bacon  or  ii  cupfuls  stewed  tomatoes 
sausage  fat  2  cupful  grated  Parmesan 

1  onion  .  cheese 

2  cloves  2  cupfuls  soup  stock  or  water 

Melt  the  fat  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  onion  stuck  with 
the  cloves  and  the  dry  rice,  and  cook  until  the  fat  is 
taken  up.  Then  add  the  tomatoes,  the  salt,  pepper  and 
liquid  and  let  simmer,  until  the  rice  is  tender  and  the 
liquid  absorbed.  Remove  the  onion.  Then  stir  in  the 
cheese  with  a  fork,  set  over  hot  water  for  ten  minutes  to 
melt  the  cheese,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Rice  and  Pimentoes  an  Gratin 

I  cupful  brown  rice  i  cupful  sliced  or  grated 

I  pint  milk  (scalded)  cheese 

I  small  can  pimentoes  I  teaspoonful  salt 

(minced)  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Boil  the  rice  until  tender.  Then  combine  with  the 
other  ingredients,  pour  into  a  well-buttered  baking  dish, 
and  bake  until  browned  in  a  hot  oven. 

Rice  with  Onions  and  Peppers 

3  cupfuls  boiled  brown  rice  i  teaspoonful  salt 

6  onions  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

3  green  sweet  peppers  Paprika 

i  can  fresh  mushrooms,  3  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

quartered    (optional)  olive  oil 
i  cupful  grated  American  or 

Parmesan  cheese 

Shred  the  onions  and  peppers  and  cook  until  soft  and 
yellowed  in  the  fat.  Add  the  mushrooms,  if  they  are 
used,  when  the  vegetables  are  half  fried.  Then  add  the 
rice  and  seasonings  and  cook  gently,  stirring  occasionally, 
until  all  is  well-heated  through.  Press  down  in  omelet 
shape,  and  brown.  Sprinkle  with  the  cheese,  fold  over 
and  turn  onto  a  hot  platter.  To  make  this  substantial 


i68  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

enough  for  the  main  dish  of  a  meal  add  one  cupful  of 
minced  ham. 

Risotto  alia  Milanese 

ii  cupfuls  uncoated  rice  I  onion 

3  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  Soup  stock 

5  tablespoonfuls  butter  Grated  Parmesan  cheese 

Slice  the  onion  and  fry  it  slowly  in  the  oil.  Add  the 
butter  and,  when  it  is  melted,  the  rice,  washed  and  well- 
drained.  Fry  until  the  rice  is  yellowed,  stirring  con- 
stantly, and  add  two  cupfuls  of  the  stock.  When  this  has 
been  absorbed,  add  more  broth  until  the  rice  is  done.  It 
should  then  be  of  the  consistency  of  spaghetti.  Stir  in  a 
little  more  butter  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cheese. 

Risotto  with  Crabs  or  Shrimps 

i  pound  crabs  or  shrimps  4  tablespoonfuls  butter 

i£  cupfuls  uncoated  rice  I  clove  garlic 

3  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  i  stalk  celery 

i  onion,  sliced  I  tablespoonful  minced  pars- 

1  small  carrot  ley 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste  Grated  Parmesan  cheese 

Dice  the  carrot  and  celery  and  fry  them  in  the  oil,  then 
add  the  fish,  well-washed  and  dried,  and  stir  constantly 
until  they  are  completely  red.  Pour  over  two  quarts  of 
salted  water,  boil  for  five  minutes  and  remove  the  fish, 
but  do  not  discard  the  water.  Shell  half  of  the  fish  and 
put  them  aside.  Pound  the  others  well,  rub  them  through 
a  sieve  and  mix  with  the  water.  Fry  the  onion  in  the 
butter,  add  the  rice,  washed  and  drained,  and,  when  yel- 
low, turn  in  the  fish  liquor.  When  almost  done,  add  the 
whole  fish,  and,  just  before  serving,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste  and  dust  with  the  cheese. 

Savory  of  Rice  with  Nuts 

3  cupfuls  boiled  brown  rice  £  cupful  broken  walnuts 

2  cupfuls  milk  or  stock  i  teaspoonful  minced  onion 
2  eggs  slightly  beaten  i  tablespoonful   pimentoes 

\  teaspoonful  salt  -  2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

i  teaspoonful  pepper  Coarse  buttered  crumbs 

Soften  the  onions  and  pimentoes  in  the  butter.  Add 
the  stock,  seasonings  and  rice,  stir  in  the  nuts  and  eggs, 


CEREALS  169 

pour  into  a  well-oiled  baking  dish  and  sprinkle  with  coarse 
crumbs,  well-mixed  with  melted  butter.  Set  in  a  pan  of 
hot  water  in  a  moderate  oven  and  bake  forty-five  minutes. 

Rice  Cakes 

I  cupful  brown   or   uncoated  i  quart  milk 

rice  (uncooked)  i  cupful  sugar 

1  cupful  butter  Salt  to  taste 
Grated  rind  and  juice  of  £  a 

lemon 

Add  the  rice  and  salt  to  the  milk,  and  cook  until  the 
liquid  is  absorbed  and,  the  rice  is  tender,  adding  more 
liquid  if  necessary.  Add  the  butter,  sugar  and  lemon  juice 
and  rind.  Mix  thoroughy  without  breaking  the  rice  ker- 
nels. Cool,  form  into  cakes,  clip  in  flour  and  fry  on  hot 
griddle.  Serve  with  cream  or  maple  syrup. 

Sweet  Rice  Cakes  (with  Cooked  Rice) 

3  cupfuls  cold  boiled  brown          i  egg 

or  uncoated  rice  i  cupful  sugar 

Mix  the  ingredients  together  in  the  order  given.     Form 
into  flat  cakes,  roll  in  flour,  and  fry  on  a  hot  griddle. 
Serve  with  maple  syrup,  melted  jelly,  or  a  fruit  sauce. 

Moulded  Brown  Rice 

2  cupfuls   boiled   brown   rice          \  cupful     chopped,     candied 
(cooled)  ginger 

\  cupful     chopped      English          Honey  whipped  cream 
walnuts 

Combine  the  rice,  nuts  and  ginger  and  pack  into  but- 
tered timbale  moulds.  Let  chill,  then  turn  out  and  serve 
garnished  with  the  cream. 


CHAPTER  V 
EGGS  AND  SAVORY  EGG  DISHES 

ALL    MEASUREMENTS   ARE    LEVEL 

Egg  cookery  may  be  divided  into  the  following  general 
groups : 

1.  Boiled  eggs,  soft  and  hard. 

2.  Poached  eggs  cooked  in  water,  stock  or  milk. 

3.  Eggs  shirred  in  individual  dishes  surrounded  by  hot 
water. 

4.  Egg  timbales,  surrounded  by  hot  water. 

5.  Fried  forms,  including  plain  fried  eggs,  scrambled 
eggs,  omelets  and  egg  croquettes. 

6.  Souffles. 

Testing  Fresh  Eggs 

Drop  the  egg  carefully  into  a  deep  saucepan  full  of 
cold  water ;  if  fresh,  it  will  sink  at  once  to  the  bottom ;  if 
it  sways  about  on  one  end,  nearly  upright,  but  still  under 
water,  it  is  not  fresh,  but  can  still  be  used.  If,  however, 
the  egg  promptly  bobs  up  to  the  surface  and  floats  about, 
it  is  spoiled. 

Terms  Used  in  Beating  Eggs 

Eggs  that  are  slightly  beaten  are  not  separated,  and  are 
beaten  until  a  spoonful  can  be  taken  up. 

Egg  yolks  are  well-beaten  when  they  become  thick  and 
lemon-colored. 

Egg  whites  are  beaten  dry  when  they  are  stiff  enough 
to  remain  in  the  dish  as  it  is  turned  upside  down.  They 
will  then  be  dead-white  in  color,  like  newly-fallen  snow. 

In  beating  eggs  the  most  common  utensils  used  are  the 
wheel  egg-beater,  or  a  wire  whisk.  The  wheel  egg-beater 
costs  from  ten  to  twenty-five  cents,  according  to  the 
quality,  and  the  whisk  twenty-five  cents.  When  beating 

170 


EGGS  AND  SAVORY  EGG  DISHES        171 

egg  whites,  the  whisk  is  often  employed,  as  it  is  possible  to 
make  the  whites  lighter  in  this  way. 

Boiled  Eggs 

Properly  speaking  eggs  should  not  be  boiled  at  all 
unless  for  hard  cooking,  but  should  be  cooked  by  the  old- 
fashioned  method  known  as  "  coddling."  To  do  this, 
put  the  eggs  in  a  thick  earthenware  utensil,  pour  over 
boiling  water,  cover  and  set  in  a  warm  place,  six  minutes 
for  soft  cooking  and  eight  for  a  slightly  firm  result. 

Hard-Boiled  Eggs 

Put  the  eggs  on  in  cold  water,  bring  to  boiling  point, 
boil  rapidly  for  ten  minutes  and  then  chill  in  cold  water. 
This  is  the  only  method  whereby  a  green  ring  around  the 
yolk  may  be  avoided. 

Poached  Eggs 

Select  a  fairly  deep  frying  pan,  fill  it  three-fourths  full 
of  boiling  water  slightly  salted,  break  the  eggs  one  by  one, 
gently,  into  a  saucer  and  slide  into  the  boiling  water. 
Baste  the  yolks  gently  with  a  little  of  the  water  to  co'ok 
the  tops.  The  water  should  not  boil  after  the  eggs  have 
been  put  in  but  should  be  kept  merely  at  simmering  point. 
Cook  until  the  white  is  firm,  then  remove  the  eggs  with  a 
perforated  spoon  to  buttered  toast.  Dust  with  salt  and 
pepper  and  pour  over  a  little  melted  butter.  Eggs  should 
be  at  least  two  days  old  to  poach  successfully. 

Eggs  Poached  in  Broth 

Eggs  are  sometimes  served  in  this  way  to  reinforce  an 
otherwise  scanty  luncheon  or  supper.  Proceed  as  di- 
rected for  plain  poached  eggs,  substituting  broth  for  the 
water.  Serve  the  broth  and  eggs  together  in  bouillon 
cups  or  marmites  (covered  earthenware  cups). 

Milk  Toast  with  Poached  Eggs 

Scald  the  milk  in  a  flat  saucepan,  add  salt  to  taste,  and 
gently  break  the  eggs,  one  by  one,  into  a  saucer.  Slip 
into  the  milk  and  poach  as  usual,  taking  care  the  milk 
does  not  boil.  Then  have  ready  buttered  toast;  set  the 
eggs  on  it,  pour  over  the  hot  milk  and  serve  at  once. 


172  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Poached  Eggs  on  Tomato  Toast 

i£  cupfuls  sifted  thick  stewed  2  tablespoonfuls  flour 

tomato  2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

\  tablespoonful  minced  onion  bacon  fat 

i  tablespoonful  minced  green  \  teaspoonful  salt 

pepper  $  teaspoonful  pepper 

\  cupful  minced  cooked  ham  6  slices  buttered  toast 

1  teaspoonful  sugar  i  cupful  grated  cheese 
6  eggs 

Fry  the  onions  and  pepper  in  the  butter  till  softened. 
Add  the  flour  and  seasonings  and  the  tomato,  gradually. 
Let  boil  up  once,  strain  and  add  the  ham.  While  re- 
heating, poach  the  eggs,  pour  the  tomato  sauce  over  the 
toast,  carefully  put  the  eggs  in  place  on  the  toast,  and 
sprinkle  with  salt,  pepper  and  grated  cheese. 

Egg  Benedict 

Allow  a  large  round  slice  of  buttered  bread  or  half  an 
English  muffin,  split,  to  each  person.  On  this  lay  a  round 
slice  of  broiled  ham.  Then  place  on  it  a  poached  egg. 
Coat  this  with  Hollandaise  sauce,  and  garnish  with  a  bit 
of  truffle  or  cooked  mushroom. 

Asparagus  Eggs 

2  cupfuls  rich  milk  i  cupful  cooked  asparagus 
2  tablespoonfuls   flour  cut  in  inch  lengths 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  6  eggs 

i  teaspoonful  salt  2  tablespoonfuls  grated  Par- 

Few  grains  pepper  mesan  cheese 

Make  a  sauce  of  the  first  five  ingredients.  Add  the 
asparagus  and,  when  very  hot,  slip  in  the  eggs  very  gently 
and  poach,  till  set,  over  hot  water.  Sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper,  strew  with  grated  cheese,  and  serve  on  buttered 
toast. 

%  Plain  Egg  Timbales 

Butter  thickly  several  timbale  moulds,  then  sprinkle 
them  with  a  finely  chopped  mixture  of  ham,  cooked  sau- 
sage, smoked  salmon,  or  left-over  chopped  cooked  ba- 
con and  parsley.  Very  carefully  break  an  egg  into  each 
mould,  sprinkle  tine  tops  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper  and 
set  in  a  pan  three-quarters  full  of  boiling  water.  Let 
them  cook  gently,  until  firm,  in  a  moderate  oven,  keeping 
the  water  at  simmering  point.  It  will  take  about  fifteen 


EGGS  AND  SAVORY  EGG  DISHES        173 

minutes.     Then    unmould    on    rounds    of    hot    buttered 
toast  and  serve  with  white  or  tomato  sauce. 

Baked  Eggs  in  Tomato  Sauce 

2  tablespoonfuls  bacon   fat  -2  tablespoonfuls  flour 

i£  cupfuls    strained    tomato  i  teaspoon ful  pepper 

juice  i  teaspoonful  salt 

6  eggs 

Make  a  sauce  of  the  bacon  fat,  flour,  seasonings  and 
tomato  juice.  Pour  into  an  earthen  baking  dish ;  break 
the  eggs  singly  on  a  saucer,  and  slip  into  the  sauce.  Dust 
lightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  until  the  eggs  are  set. 

Shirred  Eggs 

Butter  individual  baking  dishes,  and  carefully  slip  in 
one  or  two  eggs,  as  desired.  Dust  lightly  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  add  a  bit  of  butter.  Set  the  dishes  in  a  pan 
of  boiling  water,  and  cook  the  eggs  gently  in  the  oven  until 
they  are  set.  It  will  take  about  ten  minutes  for  medium- 
soft  eggs.  They  can  be  cooked  directly  in  the  oven  with- 
out the  hot  water  medium  in  a  shorter  time,  but  they  will 
not  be  so  digestible. 

Shirred  Eggs,  Creole 

Heat  a  cupful  of  left-over  stewed  tomatoes ;  add  a  lit- 
tle diced  onion  and  green  peppers,  cooked  until  soft  and 
yellow,  and  put  a  tablespoonful  of  the  mixture  into  the 
desired  number  of  individual  ramekins.  Slip  the  egg  on 
this  and  bake  gently,  until  set.  It  is  not  necessary  to  use 
a  pan  of  hot  water,  as  the  liquid  from  the  tomato  will 
prevent  too  rapid  cooking. 

Baked  Eggs  with  Creamed  Potatoes 

2  cupfuls  diced  potatoes  \  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  cupfuls  milk  2  tablespoonfuls  grated 
2  tablespoonfuls  flour  cheese 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  6  eggs 
I  teaspoonful  salt 

Make  a  white  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour,  milk  and  sea- 
sonings ;  add  the  potatoes,  and  pour  into  a  shallow,  but- 
tered baking  dish.  Break  the  eggs  one  by  one  into  a 
saucer  and  slip  them  carefully  upon  the  mixture;  sprin- 


174  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

kle  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper  and  cheese  and  set  in  a 
moderate  oven  to  cook.  Serve  when  the  eggs  are  "  set," 
which  will  be  in  about  ten  minutes. 

Baked  Eggs  and  Mashed  Potatoes 
Oil  a  shallow  earthen  dish  with  bacon  fat.  Fill  almost 
full  with  mashed  potatoes,  well  seasoned.  Make  inden- 
tations in  the  potato,  pour  in  a  little  melted  bacon  fat,  and 
brush  the  top  of  the  mixture  with  it.  Drop  an  egg  into 
each  hollow  and  set  in  the  oven  to  bake  until  the  eggs  are 
set  and  the  potato  is  browned. 

Eggs  a  la  King 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  2  ctipfuls  light  cream  or  rich 

3  tablespoonfuls  flour  milk 

2  tablespoonfuls  minced  i  cupful  fresh  or  canned 

green  peppers  mushrooms 

8  hard-cooked  eggs,  sliced  Few  grains  paprika 

I  teaspoonful  salt  Few  grains  nutmeg 

Toast 

Melt  the  butter,  and  cook  the  peppers  and  mushrooms 
in  it  until  soft.  Stir  in  the  flour  and  seasonings  and  cook 
until  frothy,  then  add  the  cream  gradually,  stirring  con- 
stantly. Gently  add  the  hard-cooked  eggs.  Set  over  hot 
water,  let  become  very  hot  and  serve  on  buttered  toast. 
Or,  pour  into  a  buttered  baking  dish,  cover  with  crumbs 
mixed  with  melted  butter,  and  brown  in  a  quick  oven. 

Curried  Eggs 

4  hard-cooked  eggs  I  cupful  boiled  brown  rice 

i  cupful  White  Sauce  No.  2          £  teaspoonful  curry  powder 

1  tablespoonful  minced  sweet 
green  peppers 

Make  the  white  sauce,  add  the  curry  mixed  with  a  little 
cold  milk  and  then  the  rice  and  peppers.  Let  stand  to 
become  very  hot  and  serve  garnished  with  the  eggs  quar- 
tered. 

Eggs  ail  Gratin 

8  hard-cooked  eggs  i  teaspoonful  salt 

3  tablespoonfuls  flour  It  teaspoonful  pepper 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter  i  cupful  grated  cheese 

2  cnpfuls  milk  ^  cupful  buttered  crumbs 

Make  a  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour,  milk  and  seasonings 


EGGS  AND  SAVORY  EGG  DISHES        175 

and  add  the  cheese.  Slice  the  eggs  crosswise.  Butter  a 
baking  dish,  and  put  in  a  layer  of  the  eggs;  cover  with 
sauce  and  repeat  until  all  is  used.  Cover  with  the  crumbs 
mixed  with  2  teaspoonfuls  of  melted  butter  and  set  in  a 
hot  oven  to  brown. 

Sliced  Eggs  with  Cream  Sauce  and  Olives 

8  hard-cooked  eggs  Bread  crumbs 

i  dozen  large  olives  ii  cupfuls  White  Sauce  No.  2 

i  uncooked  egg 

Cut  the  eggs  into  thick  slices,  roll  in  fine  dry  bread 
crumbs,  then  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  bread  crumbs  again. 
Fry  to  a  light  brown;  arrange  on  a  heated  platter  and 
pour  over  the  eggs  a  rich  white  sauce,  into  which  has  been 
stirred  the  olives,  minced. 

Stuffed  Eggs  with  Ham 

Hard  cook  the  eggs,  remove  the  shells  and  cut  the  eggs 
into  halves  lengthwise.  Scoop  out  the  yolks,  mash  and 
measure  and  mix  with  it  half  the  amount  of  ham  minced 
very  fine,  melted  butter  to  moisten,  and  made-mustard, 
salt  and  pepper  to  season.  Pack  the  stuffing  back  into  the 
eggs,  press  the  halves  together  in  pairs,  roll  in  thin  waxed 
paper  and  twist  the  ends  like  bon-bon  papers  to  hold  them 
firmly  in  position.  Use  the  balance  of  the  stuffing  as  a 
sandwich  filling. 

Stuffed  eggs  can  be  varied  in  a  great  many  ways;  al- 
most any  cooked  meat,  smoked  fish,  sardines,  canned  fish, 
or  cheese,  with  a  high  seasoning  of  tabasco,  Worcester- 
shire, catsup,  etc.,  being  suitable. 

Scrambled  Eggs 

6  eggs  4  teaspoonful  pepper 

i  cupful  milk  i  tablespoonful  butter  or 

i  teaspoonful  salt  bacon  fat 

Break  the  eggs  into  a  frying  pan  and  beat  with  a  spoon 
till  broken.  Add  the  remaining  ingredients,  beat  slightly 
to  blend,  and  place  over  a  slow  heat  to  cook,  scraping  up 
as  it  solidifies.  When  all  is  creamy,  turn  onto  hot  but- 
tered toast,  and  serve  at  once. 

Scrambled  Eggs  with  Tomato 
Substitute  thickly  stewed,  well-seasoned  tomato  for  the 


176  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

milk  in  the  preceding  recipe,  and  use  bacon  fat,  if  possible. 

Scrambled  Eggs  with  Cheese 

Before  cooking  add  a  half  cupful  of  finely  shaved 
American  cheese  to  the  mixture  for  scrambled  eggs. 

Scrambled  Eggs  with  Ham  or  Dried  Beef 

Add  a  half  cupful  of  minced  ham,  or  finely  shredded 
dried  beef,  to  the  mixture  for  scrambled  eggs. 

Scrambled  Eggs  with  Asparagus 

Add  a  half  cupful  or  more  of  diced,  cooked  asparagus 
to  the  mixture  for  scrambled  eggs. 

Scrambled  Eggs  with  Bacon 

Dice  three  or  four  slices  of  bacon,  fry  it,  and  add  to 
the  mixture  for  scrambled  eggs.  Omit  the  butter,  sub- 
stituting instead  a  tablespoon  ful  of  the  bacon  fat. 

Scrambled  Eggs  with  Mushrooms 

Saute  (fry)  a  cupful  of  quartered  mushrooms  in  two 
tablespoon fuls  of  butter,  or  bacon  fat,  adding  salt  and 
pepper,  and  a  dash  of  onion  juice.  Pour  over  the  mixture 
for  scrambled  eggs  and  cook  as  directed,  omitting  the 
butter. 

Scrambled  Eggs  with  Onions 

Peel  and  slice  six  medium-sized  onions,  and  fry  until 
soft  and  yellow  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  Then 
add  the  mixture  for  scrambled  eggs  and  cook  as  directed, 
omitting  the  butter. 

Scrambled  Eggs  with  Left-Over  Creamed  Onions 

Add  a  cupful  of  creamed  onions,  with  their  sauce,  to 
the  mixture  for  scrambled  eggs,  omitting  the  milk.  Cook 
as  directed. 

Scrambled  Eggs  with  Green  Peppers 

Shred  three  sweet  green  peppers  and  fry  until  soft  in 
3  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  Then  add  the  mixture  for 
scrambled  eggs  and  proceed  as  directed,  omitting  the 
butter. 


EGGS  AND  SAVORY  EGG  DISHES        177 

Eggs  Scrambled  Over  Hot  Water   (Individual) 

i  egg  Few  grains  pepper 

i  cupful  milk  i  teaspoonful  butter  or  olive 

1  teaspoonfnl  salt  oil 

Beat  the  egg  in  a  double  boiler  top,  add  the  other  ingre- 
dients, and  cook  over  boiling  water  until  solidified  — 
about  ten  minutes  —  stirring  occasionally  very  gently  to 
allow  the  uncooked  portion  from  the  center  to  get  to  the 
edges.  This  is  especially  good  for  children  or  invalids. 

Spanish  Eggs 

6  eggs  i  teaspoonful  sugar 

6  stuffed  olives  i  teaspoonful  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  Few  grains  cayenne 

I  teaspoonful  minced  onion  \  tablespoonful  minced  sweet 

i  teaspoonful  capers   (op-  green  peppers 

tional)  6  slices  buttered  toast 

i  cupful  sifted  canned  to- 
mato 

Melt  the  butter,  add  the  onion  and  pepper,  and  saute 
(fry)  till  soft.  Add  the  olives,  minced,  the  sugar  and 
tomato,  and,  when  boiling,  season  and  pour  onto  the  eggs 
beaten  slightly.  Cook  as  scrambled  eggs,  and  serve  on 
toast. 

Fried  Eggs 

For  frying  eggs,  keep  a  pan  for  that  purpose  only. 
Heat  it  and  put  in  enough  fat  (bacon,  ham,  sausage  or 
beef,  or  butter  if  you  have  nothing  better)  barely  to  cover 
the  bottom.  Break  the  eggs  one  by  one  into  a  saucer, 
slip  into  the  fat,  salt  and  pepper  lightly,  and  fry  slowly 
until  of  the  desired  firmness,  removing  carefully  to  a 
heated  platter  with  a  griddle  cake  turner. 


OMELETS 

There  are  two  classes  of  omelets,  the  French  and  the 
Puffy,  and  whereas  these  are  capable  of  infinite  variety 
all  omelets  may  be  included  under  these  two  heads.  All 
omelets  should  have  a  certain  per  cent,  of  liquid  added  to 
them.  The  general  proportion  of  liquid  to  an  egg  is  a 
tablespoonful;  either  hot  or  cold  water  or  milk,  may  be 
used.  However,  there  are  times  when  it  is  necessary  to 
make  eggs  go  as  far  as  possible,  and  in  this  case  a  fourth 


178  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

of  a  cupful  of  milk,  and  a  fourth  of  a  tablespoonful  of 
flour  may  be  allowed  for  each  egg  or  a  fourth  of  a  cup- 
ful of  White  Sauce  No.  2  may  be  used. 

Old-time  authorities  say  that  the  success  of  an  omelet 
is  largely  dependent  upon  the  number  of  egg  yolks  that 
are  used,  and  that  they  should  number  a  third  more  than 
the  whites  to  insure  a  tender  result.  This  is  undoubtedly 
true  in  a  measure,  and  when  convenient  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  add  an  extra  yolk  or  two  because  they  are  rich  in  fat ; 
however,  this  is  by  no  means  necessary,  if  the  omelet  is 
properly  cooked.  Baking  powder  is  not  needed. 

General  Directions  for  Making  Omelets 
The  omelet  pan  should  be  thoroughly  clean.  To  an 
omelet  of  medium  size  allow  a  tablespoonful  of  the  de- 
sired fat  —  butter,  bacon,  or  ham  fat,  giving  a  good  selec- 
tion. Melt  this  fat  in  the  omelet  pan,  and  tip  the  pan  so 
that  it  is  thoroughly  oiled,  sides  and  all,  but  do  not  let  the 
fat  get  very  hot.  Then  pour  in  the  omelet  mixture  and 
let  it  cook  gently,  lifting  the  mixture  occasionally  with  a 
spatula  or  broad-bladed  knife,  so  that  the  uncooked  liquid 
portion  may  precipitate.  •  When  this  has  been  done,  allow 
it  to  brown  on  the  bottom,  and,  if  possible,  set  it  in  the 
oven  for  a  moment  to  make  the  top  firm.  Cut  at  right 
angles  to  the  handle,  fold  over  and  slip  out  onto  a  hot 
platter.  If  a  special  flavoring  is  to  be  introduced,  it  may 
be  spread  upon  half  of  the  omelet  before  it  is  folded  and 
turned  out. 

If  an  omelet  has  to  stand  some  time  before  serving, 
choose  one  of  the  puffy  varieties  that  contains  flour. 
Various  types  of  omelet  are  suitable  for  service  at  the 
different  meals.  Generally  speaking,  however,  it  is  good 
form  to  serve  very  simple  omelets  at  breakfast,  as  plain 
French  or  puffy  omelet  with  a  bit  of  bacon  or  ham,  reserv- 
ing the  more  savory  omelets  for  luncheon  or  supper. 
Sweet  omelets  may  act  as  dessert  at  luncheon,  or  as  the 
main  course  at  luncheon  or  supper,  if  desired,  although 
this  is  a  little  unusual. 

Variations  of  Plain  Omelets 

Plain,  Puffy,  French  and  Swedish  Omelets  may  be 
varied  by  means  of  sauces  in  a  great  many  ways,  and  at 
the  same  time  in  connection  with  some  left-over  they  may 


CURRIED  EGGS  IN  CHAFING  DISH 


SWEDISH  TIMBALES 


EGGS  AND  SAVORY  EGG  DISHES        179 

furnish   the   main   portion    of    a   meal.     The    following 
variations  are  among  a  few  that  may  be  used : 

Minced  or  Creamed  Ham 

Creamed  Dried  Beef 

Left-Over  Creamed  Chicken 

Creamed  Oysters 

Oysters  in  Brown  Sauce 

Stewed  Tomatoes 

Fried  Onions  with  Fried  Green  Peppers 

Creamed  Peas 

Creamed  Spinach 

Left-Over  Creamed  Asparagus 

Bits  of  Cooked  Bacon  or  Sausage 

Creamed  or  Sauted  Mushrooms 

Boiled  French  Omelet 

6  eggs  4  teaspoonful  pepper 

6  tablespoonfuls  hot  water  Garlic   (optional) 

i  teaspoonful  salt 

Rub  the  inside  of  a  bowl  with  garlic.  Break  the  eggs 
into  the  bowl,  add  the  salt  and  pepper  and  beat  until  thick 
and  light.  Add  the  water,  mix  well,  and  turn  into  a 
warm  omelet  pan  containing  i  tablespoonful  of  melted 
butter.  Let  set  over  the  heat  for  a  few  moments,  then 
raise  the  cooked  portion  so  that  the  uncooked  may  pre- 
cipitate and  be  cooked.  When  "  set "  and  brown  on  the 
bottom,  roll  as  jelly  roll,  beginning  at  the  side  next  the 
handle.  If  desired,  minced  ham  or  parsley,  or  a  thick 
sauce  may  be  rolled  in  the  omelet.  Omit  the  garlic,  if 
desired,  or  if  a  sweet  rilling  is  used. 

Puffy  Omelet 

6  eggs  About  2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

6  tablespoonfuls  hot  water  i£  teaspoonfuls  salt 

i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Separate  the  eggs,  beat  the  yolks  till  lemon-colored,  and 
the  whites  until  stiff.  Add  the  hot  water,  and  the  salt  and 
pepper  to  the  yolks  and  fold  lightly  into  the  whites. 
Turn  at  once  into  an  omelet  pan  which  should  be  hot  and 
well-oiled  with  the  butter.  Cook  according  to  the  general 
directions. 


i8o  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Sour  Cream  Omelet 

5  eggs  i  teaspoonful  salt 

I  cupful  sour  cream  i  tablespoonful  butter 

Paprika 

Beat  the  eggs  until  very  light  and  frothy.  Add  the  salt, 
paprika  and  cream.  Pour  into  an  omelet  pan  in  which 
the  butter  has  been  melted  and  cook  very  gently  accord- 
ing to  the  general  directions. 

Swedish  Omelet 

4  eggs  I  teaspoonful  pepper 

i  cupful  milk  i  tablespoonful  flour 

1  teaspoonful  salt 

Dissolve  the  flour  in  the  milk  and  add  the  seasonings. 
Separate  the  eggs.  Beat  the  yolks  light  and  add  the  milk. 
Whip  the  whites  stiff,  and  turn  in  the  yolk  mixture. 
Keep  the  mixture  light  with  cakes  of  white  floating  about. 
Turn  into  a  warm  omelet  pan  well-oiled  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  and  cook  gently,  according  to  the  gen- 
eral directions. 

Spanish  Omelet 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  i  teaspoonful  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls  chopped  red          4  teaspoonful  pepper 
peppers  i  tablespoonful  chopped 

1  tablespoonful  chopped  on-  mushrooms 

ion  i  tablespoonful  capers 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  5  eggs 
i  cupful    stewed   and    sifted 

tomatoes 

Melt  the  butter,  add  the  peppers  and  onion  and  cook 
until  light  yellow.  Then  stir  in  the  flour,  and  add  the 
tomato  gradually.  Let  boil  up  once,  add  the  seasonings, 
mushrooms  and  capers,  and  stir  gradually  into  the  egg 
yolks  beaten  very  light.  Cut  and  fold  in  the  egg  whites 
whipped  very  dry,  and  turn  into  a  frying-pan  in  which  3 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  have  been  melted.  Cook  accord- 
ing to  the  general  directions  and  garnish  with  parsley,  or 
if  desirable  make  a  double-  quantity  of  tomato  sauce  and 
reserve  half  to  pour  around  the  omelet  when  completed. 

Asparagus  Omelet 

6  eggs  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

1  cupful  milk  |  cupful  asparagus  cut  in 

2  tablespoonfuls   flour  inch   pieces 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  Asparagus  tips   for  garnish- 

i  teaspoonful  salt  ing 


EGGS  AND  SAVORY  EGG  DISHES        181 

Make  a  white  sauce  of  the  milk,  flour,  butter  and  sea- 
sonings. Add  the  cut  asparagus.  Separate  the  eggs; 
beat  the  whites  stiff  and  the  yolks  till  lemon-colored.  Stir 
the  white  sauce  into  the  yolks,  and  fold  the  whole  into 
the  egg  whites,  letting  flecks  of  white  float  on  the  top. 
Finish  according  to  the  general  directions.  Turn  onto  a 
platter  and  garnish  with  asparagus  tips. 

Cheese  Omelet 

6  eggs  I  cupful  grated  cheese 

i  teaspoonful  salt  3  tablespoonfuls  hot  water 

4  teaspoonful  pepper 

Beat  the  eggs  thoroughly  and  add  the  water  and  season- 
ings. Melt  a  tablespoonf ul  of  butter  in  a  frying  pan,  and, 
when  white  and  frothy,  pour  the  egg  mixture  into  it. 
When  the  omelet  is  set  and  slightly  browned  on  the  bot- 
tom, sprinkle  over  the  cheese  and  set  it  in  the  oven  long 
enough  to  make  the  top  firm,  and  then  fold. 

Dried  Beef  Omelet 

I  cupful  dried  beef,  shredded          J  teaspoonful  pepper 
4  eggs  i  tablespoonful  butter 

i  cupful  milk  i  tablespoonful  flour 

Soak  the  beef  twenty  minutes  in  hot  water.  Drain 
well,  and  mix  with  the  flour,  milk,  pepper  and  the  egg 
yolks  well  beaten.  Add  the  whites  whipped  stiff,  and 
cook  according  to  the  general  directions. 

Friday  Omelet 

4  medium-sized  onions  i  teaspoonful  salt 

i  cupful  canned  tomato  Dash  pepper 

\  teaspoonful  sugar  5  eggs 

i  tablespoonful  flour  2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

3  tablespoonfuls  hot  water  bacon  fat 

Cut  the  onions  in  thin  slices  and  fry,  until  thoroughly 
softened,  in  the  butter.  Then  add  the  tomato  and  season- 
ings and,  when  well  blended,  the  flour,  mixed  with  a  little 
tomato  juice. 

Beat  the  eggs  well,  add  water  and  seasonings  and  make 
a  plain  omelet.  After  standing  in  the  oven  to  become 
"  set "  spread  the  vegetable  mixture  in  the  fold,  roll  over 
and  transfer  to  a  hot  platter. 


182  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Corn  Omelet 

4  eggs  I  teaspoon ful  salt 

i  cupful  creamed  corn  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

1  tablespoonful  flour  I  tablespoonful  butter 

Heat  the  corn,  thicken  with  the  butter  and  flour 
creamed  together  and  season.  Separate  the  eggs,  beat  the 
whites  till  dry  and  the  yolks  till  lemon-colored.  Add  the 
corn  to  the  yolks,  and  gradually  fold  this  mixture  into 
the  whites.  Turn  into  a  warm,  well-oiled  omelet  pan 
and  cook  gently  according  to  general  directions.  Serve 
surrounded  with  extra  creamed  corn,  if  convenient. 

Artichoke  Omelet 

2  medium-sized    artichokes  I  teaspoonful  salt 

3  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  4  teaspoonful  pepper 

4  eggs  2  tablespoonfuls  grated 
2  tablespoonfuls  water  cheese 

Clean  the  artichokes,  cut  them  in  slices  lengthwise  and 
fry  slowly  in  the  oil,  adding  the  salt  and  pepper.  When 
they  are  tender,  pour  over  the  eggs,  well-beaten,  and  mix 
with  the  water  and  cheese.  Cook  gently  according  to 
general  directions.  Serve  garnished  with  spinach,  if  con- 
venient. 

Orange  Omelet 

6  eggs  i  tablespoonful  corn  starch 

2  tablespoonfuls  powdered  \  cupful  orange  juice 

sugar  Extra  powdered  sugar 

I  teaspoonful  salt  Cocoanut 

i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice  Sliced  oranges  for  garnishing 

Separate  the  eggs.  Mix  together  the  sugar,  salt,  corn 
starch  and  the  lemon  and  orange  juice.  Beat  the  yolks 
light,  and  add  this  mixture  to  them.  Beat  the  whites 
stiff  and  dry;  fold  in  the  first  mixture  and  turn  into  a 
warm,  well-oiled  omelet  pan.  Cook  gently  according  to 
general  directions.  Garnish  with  the  sliced  oranges,  and 
sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar  and  cocoanut. 

Pineapple  Omelet 

I  cupful   shredded   pineapple          6  eggs 

and  juice  Powdered  sugar 

I  tablespoonful  flour  Few  grains  salt 

Dissolve  the  flour  and  salt  in  the  pineapple.  Separate 
the  eggs,  and  beat  the  yolks  till  lemon-colored,  then  add 


EGGS  AND  SAVORY  EGG  DISHES        183 

them  to  the  pineapple  juice.  Whip  the  whites  stiff,  fold 
them  gently  into  the  pineapple  and  turn  the  mixture  into 
a  warm  omelet  pan  containing  a  tablespoon ful  and  a  half 
of  melted  butter.  Cook  according  to  general  directions. 
Sift  powdered  sugar  thickly  over  it,  when  done,  and  serve 
with  or  without  extra  shredded  pineapple. 


SOUFFLES 

Souffles  or,  as  the  name  means,  "  puffed  ups "  are 
properly  speaking  baked  omelets,  in  which  the  eggs  have 
been  beaten  separately,  the  air,  which  has  been  incorpor- 
ated into  the  whites,  being  used  to  puff  up  the  dish. 
True  souffles  will  not  stand  any  time  after  taking  from 
the  oven,  and  so  must  be  served  at  once,  unless  they  are 
reinforced  with  bread  crumbs,  flour  or  some  other  starchy 
element. 

Souffles  may  be  divided  into  two  classes,  savory 
souffles  and  sweet  souffles. 

The  simplest  form  of  a  savory  souffle  is  called  baked 
omelet,  or  omelet  souffle.  Other  souffles  may  be  made  by 
combining  the  eggs,  with  a  certain  percentage  of  thickened 
sauce  and  other  ingredients,  as,  for  instance,  y2  cupful 
White  Sauce  No.  3,  3  eggs,  and  2  cupfuls  of  minced  meat, 
vegetables  or  fish  with  suitable  seasonings.  If  this  pro- 
portion is  kept  in  mind,  many  a  left-over  can  be  made  into 
a  suitable  luncheon  or  supper  dish  with  the  additional 
expense  only  of  the  eggs. 

General  Directions  for  Cooking  Souffles 

Whenever  possible,  souffles  should  be  baked  in  indi- 
vidual glass  or  earthenware  dishes  which  are  well-oiled, 
as  they  are  usually  made  very  heavy  by  the  cutting  of  the 
spoon  when  served  from  a  large  dish.  The  dishes  should 
be  well  rubbed  with  butter,  oleomargarine  or  bacon  fat 
and  should  be  filled  half-full,  as  the  souffle,  if  properlv 
made,  should  rise  to  double  its  bulk.  Individual  dishes 
should  be  baked  in  a  moderate  oven  for  fifteen  mjntites, 
and  dishes  holding  enough  to  serve  six  should  be  baked 
for  thirty  minutes.  When  done  the  center  will  feel  dry 
and  firm,  like  sponge  or  angel  cake. 


184  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Baked  Omelet,  or  Omelet  Souffle 

6  eggs  3  tablespoonfuls  hot  ham  or 

i  teaspoonful  salt  bacon  drippings  or  chicken 

4  tablespoonfuls    cold  water              fat 

or  milk  ij  tablespoonfuls  flour 
i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Separate  the  eggs ;  beat  the  yolks  until  lemon-colored ; 
add  the  flour,  pepper  and  salt,  and  stir  in  the  liquid.  Beat 
the  whites  until  dry,  pour  in  the  yolk  mixture  and  trans- 
fer to  a  deep  baking  dish  containing  the  melted  hot  fat. 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  about  twenty  minutes. 

Baked  Crumb  Omelet  or  Souffle 

4  eggs  i J  teaspoonfuls  salt 

i  cupful   coarse  stale   bread         &  teaspoonful  pepper 

crumbs  I  tablespoonful  hot  ham 

i  cupful  milk  drippings  or  bacon  fat 

Let  the  crumbs  stand  in  the  milk  until  softened.  Sep- 
arate the  eggs.  Beat  the  yolks  until  lemon-colored,  and 
add  the  seasonings  and  crumb  mixture.  Beat  the  egg 
whites  until  stiffened.  Fold  iiTthe  egg  whites,  and  bake 
in  a  well-oiled  dish  according  to  the  general  directions 
for  cooking  souffles. 

Cheese  Souffle 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  Few  grains  cayenne 

oleomargarine  i  cupful  grated  American 

3  tablespoonfuls  flour  cheese 

\  cupful  scalded  milk  3  egga,   separated 

1  teaspoonful  salt 

Melt  the  butter,  add  the  flour,  the  milk  gradually,  and 
then  the  seasonings  and  cheese.  Boil  up  once  and  add  to 
the  egg  yolks  beaten  until  lemon-colored.  Cool  the  mix- 
ture and  fold  in  the  egg  whites  beaten  stiff.  Pour  into  a 
well-oiled  baking  dish  and  bake  according  to  the  general 
directions  for  cooking  souffles. 

Potato  Souffle 

2  cupfuls  well-seasoned  fluffy          3  eggs 

mashed  potatoes  i  teaspoonful  powdered  pars- 

i  tablespoonful  butter  ley    (optional) 

Few  grains  mace 

Melt  the  butter  in  the  baking  dish;  beat  together  the 


EGGS  AND  SAVORY  EGG  DISHES        185 

egg  yolks,  potato,  mace  and  parsley.  Then  fold  in  the 
egg  whites  beaten  stiff.  Brown  in  a  quick  oven.  One- 
half  cupful  of  grated  cheese  may  be  added  to  this  mixture 
if  desired. 

Souffle  of  Yellow-Eyed  Beans 

i  pint  yellow  bean  pulp  i  teaspoonful  celery  salt 

4  eggs  Few  grains  pepper 

Few  drops  onion  juice 

Beat  the  egg  yolks  well.  Add  the  seasonings  and  com- 
bine with  the  bean  pulp.  Beat  the  whites  stiff,  fold  them 
into  the  first  mixture,  and  pile  lightly  into  well-oiled  rame- 
kin dishes.  Bake  according  to  the  general  directions  for 
cooking  souffles. 

Tomato  Souffle 

1  cupful  stewed  tomatoes  i  teaspoonful  salt 

4  tablespoonfuls  flour  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls     butter     on         5  eggs 
savory  drippings 

Melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour  and  seasonings,  and 
gradually  add  the  tomato.  Separate  the  eggs,  beat  the 
yolks  well,  combine  with  the  tomato  and  whip  the  egg 
whites  till  stiff ;  fold  into  them  the  tomato  mixture,  turn 
into  well-oiled  ramekin  dishes,  and  bake  according  to  the 
general  directions  for  cooking  souffles. 

Souffle  of  Spinach 

£  cupful  minced  cooked  spin-  i  cupful  milk 

ach  2  tablespoonfuls  chopped 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  raw  prunes 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  4  tablespoonfuls  chopped 

\  teaspoonful  salt  cashew  nuts  or  pecans 

Few  grains  mace'  5  eggs 

Make  a  white  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour,  mace,  salt  and 
milk.  Add  the  prunes,  spinach  and  nuts,  and  mix  well ; 
add  the  egg  yolks  beaten  light,  then  fold  in  the  stiffly 
beaten  whites.  Pour  into  a  buttered  baking  dish  or 
ramekins,  and  bake  according  to  general  directions  for 
cooking  souffles. 


i86  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Chicken  Souffle 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  I  teaspoonfnl  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  i  teaspoonful   paprika 

I  cupful  milk  4  teaspoonful   celery   salt 

I  cupful  chicken  stock  i  teaspoonful  powdered  pars- 

1  cupful  soft  bread  crumbs  ley   (optional) 

3  eggs  2  cupfuls  minced  chicken 

Make  a  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour,  milk  and  stock ;  add 
the  bread  crumbs  and  seasonings,  then  the  chicken,  and 
pour  into  the  egg  yolks  well-beaten.  Fold  in  the  whites 
beaten  dry  and  bake  according  to  the  general  directions 
for  cooking  souffles. 

Halibut  Souffle 

2%  tablespoonfuls   butter  Few  grains  cayenne 

2  tablespoonfuls   flour  i  teaspoonful    scraped   onion 

2  cupfuls  milk  (juice) 

i  cupful  bread  crumbs  Few  grains  mace 

3  eggs  2  cupfuls  finely-flaked  cooked 
i  teaspoonful  salt  halibut 

Make  a  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour,  milk  and  seasonings ; 
add  the  crumbs  and  fish,  pour  into  the  egg  yolks  well- 
beaten,  fold  in  the  stiffly-beaten  whites  and  bake  accord- 
ing to  general  directions.  Cooked  haddock,  codfish  or 
bluefish  may  be  substituted  for  the  halibut. 

Salmon  Souffle 

Make  according  to  the  recipe  for  halibut  souffle,  sub- 
stituting salmon. 

Lobster  Souffle 

Make  according  to  the  recipe  for  halibut  souffle,  omit- 
ting the  onion,  and  adding  the  juice  of  one-quarter  of  a 
lemon.  Crabflakes  may  be  substituted  for  the  lobster. 

Salt  Codfish  Souffle 

1  cupful   shredded   salt  cod-          3  eggs 

fish  i  teaspoonful    minced    pars- 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  ley 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter,  oleo-  2  cupfnls  milk 

margarine  or  savory  drip-  i  cupful  soft  bread  crumbs 

pings  i  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Make  a  white   sauce  of  the  butter,   flour  and  milk. 


EGGS  AND  SAVORY  EGG  DISHES        187 

Freshen  the  codfish,  rinse  well,  then  add  to  the  sauce  with 
the  seasonings  and  crumbs.  Separate  the  eggs,  and  beat 
the  yolks  light.  Stir  into  the  mixture,  fold  in  the  whites 
beaten  stiff,  and  pour  into  a  well-oiled  baking  dish.  Bake 
according  to  the  general  directions  for  cooking  souffles. 

Plain  Lemon  Souffle 

3  eggs  3  tablespoonfuls  powdered 

i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice  sugar 

i  tablespoonful  butter 

Heat  a  baking  dish,  first  putting  the  butter  in  it ;  when 
the  latter  melts,  tip  the  dish  so  that  it  will  oil  the  sides 
thoroughly.  Separate  the  eggs  and  beat  the  yolks  till 
lemon-colored.  Add  to  them  the  sugar  and  lemon  juice. 
Beat  the  whites  stiff  and  dry,  fold  in  the  yolk  mixture, 
heap  into  the  baking  dish,  sprinkle  with  a  little  additional 
sugar,  and  bake  gently  until  puffy  and  brown,  according 
to  the  general  directions  for  cooking  souffles. 

Fig  Souffle 

I  cupful  finely-chopped,  \  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

cooked  figs,  and  a  little  Few  grains  salt 

juice  4  eggs 

1  cupful  sugar  Grated  lemon  rind 

2  tablespoonfuls  corn  starch 

Heat  the  figs,  add  the  corn  starch,  sugar  and  salt  well- 
mixed,  and  bring  to  boiling  point.  Turn  in  the  lemon 
juice.  Pour  this  mixture  into  the  egg  yolks  beaten  light, 
and  fold  in  the  egg  whites  beaten  stiff.  Bake  according 
to  the  general  directions  for  cooking  souffles. 

Coffee  Souffle 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter  \  cupful  _sugar 

3  tablespoonfuls   corn   starch          Few  grains  salt 

\  cupful  strong  black  coffee  4  eggs 

£  cupful  rich  milk  or  cream  j  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Make  a  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour,  milk  and  coffee,  add 
the  salt  and  sugar,  and  pour  into  the  egg  yolks  well- 
beaten.  Fold  in  the  egg  whites  whipped  stiff,  and  bake 
according  to  the  general  directions  for  cooking  souffles. 


CHAPTER  VI 
YEAST  BREADS 

ALL    MEASUREMENTS   ARE   LEVEL 

What  constitutes  good  white  bread?  On  this  point 
authorities  differ,  but  they  are  agreed  that  it  should  be 
baked  till  the  crumb,  or  inner  part,  becomes  light  in  tex- 
ture, a  little  moist,  but  not  soggy ;  that  it  should  be  nutty 
and  agreeable  both  to  smell  and  taste ;  that  it  should  be 
light  in  color  and  evenly  porous;  and  that  the  surface 
should  be  elastic  enough  to  rebound  when  pressed.  The 
loaf  should  rise  evenly  and  not  burst  at  either  top  or 
sides.  It  should  be  of  uniform,  golden-brown  color,  but 
the  texture  of  the  crust  depends  upon  whether  a  milk  or 
water  bread  is  made.  Bread  is  not  good  if  it  tastes  or 
smells  sour,  and  the  crumb  of  white  bread  should  not  be 
dark  in  color.  If  these  requirements  are  not  met,  there 
is  something  wrong  in  the  way  it  is  mixed,  tended  or 
baked,  or  with  the  yeast,  flour  or  formula. 

The  Yeast 

The  first  important  thing  is  the  yeast.  This  is  made 
up  of  minute  plants,  the  success  of  the  finished  loaf  de- 
pending upon  their  proper  growth ;  and  just  as  you  coddle 
your  rubber  plant  or  Boston  fern,  the  yeast  plants  must 
be  nurtured  until  they  have  grown  sufficiently.  This  may 
be  judged  by  the  amount  the  bread  has  risen.  The 
growth  of  yeast,  and,  therefore,  the  rising  of  bread,  de- 
mands close  attention  to  temperature.  Sudden  chill  is 
disastrous  to  yeast,  the  growth  of  which  is  checked  by  a 
radical  drop  in  temperature.  On  the  other  hand,  too 
great  heat  also  causes  unsatisfactory  results,  because  at 
any  temperature  above  ninety-five,  various  undesired  or- 
ganisms are  sure  to  develop,  which  will  give  the  bread  a 
sour  flavor.  The  proper  temperature  for  the  growth  of 
yeast  is  from  seventy  to  ninety-five  degrees  Fahrenheit. 

188 


YEAST  BREADS  189 

In  summer  lower  temperature  is  preferable,  while  in  win- 
ter, when  the  flour  is  cold,  higher  may  be  used. 

Use  of  the  Thermometer 

Many  women  say  that  they  buy  baker's  bread  because 
it  is  consistently  good.  The  reason  for  this  is  that  the 
baker  always  uses  exact  measurements,  and  fermentation 
is  produced  at  a  temperature  regulated  by  the  ther- 
mometer. There  is  no  reason  why  every  housekeeper 
should  not  use  a  thermometer  in  making  bread  as  well  as 
in  preparing  other  foods.  The  woman  who  puts  her  bread 
to  rise  on  the  radiator,  for  instance,  will  find  that  the  tem- 
perature will  register  from  a  hundred  and  fifty  to  two 
hundred  degrees,  and  only  somewhat  lower  if  a  wooden 
board  is  placed  beneath  the  pan.  If  the  bread  is  put  next 
the  radiator,  it  becomes  too  hot  on  one  side,  unless  turned 
frequently,  and  if  put  on  the  back  of  the  stove  when  the 
fire  is  at  all  hot,  the  heat  is  again  directed  unevenly.  In 
hot  weather  the  rising  generally  takes  care  of  itself,  but 
the  only  accurate  method  that  I  have  ever  found  for  win- 
ter use  is  to  raise  the  bread  over  warm  water.  The 
dough  should  be  placed  in  an  enamelware  bowl  which  fits 
over  the  top  of  a  large  stock-pot.  The  pot  should  then 
be  filled  with  water  at  a  hundred  degrees,  just  full  enough 
so  that  the  enamelware  pan  touches  the  water  when  set  in 
the  pot.  A  lid  is  then  placed  over  the  dough  and  the 
whole  set  in  the  fireless  cooker.  Or  if  a  fireless  cooker  is 
not  at  hand,  the  dough  may  be  kept  in  a  warm  place  just 
the  same  if  the  water  is  changed  two  or  three  times  dur- 
ing the  rising  process. 

How  to  Use  Compressed  Yeast 

Compressed  yeast  is  very  inexpensive  and  produces  uni- 
form results.  However,  to  do  good  work  it  must  be 
fresh,  and  should  be  of  an  even,  light  sand  color  with  no 
dark  streaks  ;  it  should  break  crisply ;  if  there  is  any  doubt 
about  its  freshness  it  should  be  dropped  into  a  third  cup- 
ful of  tepid  water,  containing  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar. 
If  fresh,  bubbles  will  come  at  once  to  the  surface.  If 
they  do  not,  the  yeast  should  not  be  used.  As  compressed 
yeast  works  more  rapidly  than  dry  yeast,  and  as  bread  can 
be  made  from  it  with  most  excellent  results  without  first 


190  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

making  a  sponge,  it  is  the  most  satisfactory  kind  to  use 
when  one  is  near  a  market  and  can  buy  it  fresh  whenever 
wanted.  Still,  if  placed  in  cold  water,  compressed  yeast 
may  be  kept  a  few  days  in  the  ice-box,  or  may  be  buried 
in  salt,  and  kept  in  a  cool  place. 

How  to  Use  Dry  Yeast 

Those  who  live  at  some  distance  from  the  grocery  will 
probably  find  it  more  satisfactory  to  use  dry  yeast.  This 
is  made  of  a  strong  stock  yeast,  thickened  with  cornmeal 
and  dried  at  a  low  temperature  to  prevent  fermentation. 
The  strength  is  somewhat  variable,  as  the  yeast  plants 
gradually  die,  so,  contrary  to  customary  use,  the  supply 
of  dry  yeast  should  be  renewed  frequently  in  order  to 
keep  the  bread  results  uniform.  In  using  dry  yeast  the 
bread  should  always  be  started  with  a  sponge;  the  dry 
cake  should  be  dissolved  in  a  small  amount  of  tepid  water, 
then  added  to  the  desired  amount  of  lukewarm  liquid,  and 
enough  flour  to  make  a  soft  batter  beaten  in,  about  a  cup- 
ful and  a  half  to  a  pint  of  the  liquid.  When  it  has  risen 
till  light,  the  remaining  flour  and  the  other  ingredients 
may  be  added.  The  bread  recipes  in  this  book  have  been 
standardized  for  compressed  yeast,  but  dry  yeast  may  be 
substituted  if  this  method  is  used.  When  strictest  econ- 
omy must  be  practised,  dry  yeast  is  much  less  expensive 
when  transformed  into  liquid  yeast.  In  using  this  allow 
half  a  cupful  to  each  pint  of  liquid  to  be  used  in  making 
the  bread. 

Varieties  of  Bread 

Bread  may  be  made  in  such  infinite  variety  that  it 
seems  a  great  waste  of  opportunity  to  confine  it  wholly  to 
the  usual  "  white  bread."  The  latter  has  a  definite  place 
in  the  dietary,  if  it  is  used  as  a  starch,  rather  than  a  pro- 
tein or  mineral  food,  but  white  bread  is  a  decidedly  un- 
stable "  staff  of  life  "  if  used  alone.  On  the  other  hand 
many  of  the  so-called  wheat  flours,  although  highly  ad- 
vertised, are  little  better,  because  a  large  part  of  the  wheat 
has  also  been  removed  from  them.  When  a  real  whole- 
wheat flour  or  meal  can  be  obtained  —  one  made  of  un- 
denatured  or  unrobbed  wheat  —  bread  becomes  more  than 
a  starch ;  it  is  a  true  nerve,  blood  and  bone  food.  At  the 


YEAST  BREADS  191 

same  time  it  is  particularly  rich  in  vitamins,  the  life-giv- 
ing principles. 

Bran  bread  also  has  a  place  in  the  diet,  for  it  brings 
bulk  to  help  overcome  constipation  and  minerals  as  a 
nerve  tonic.  Moreover,  bran  bread  at  least  twenty-four 
hours  old,  toasted  until  crisp,  will  be  found  an  excellent 
substitute  for  white  bread  toast  to  be  used1  by  those 
troubled  with  obesity.  Rye  bread  is  easily  made  and  is 
a  good  alternative  for  whole-wheat  bread.  Rice  bread, 
made  of  brown  rice,  is  substantial,  and  offers  splendid 
nutritive  properties,  especially  if  combined  with  raisins  or 
dates.  Rice  bread,  of  uncoated  or  brown  rice  and  white 
flour,  is  an  excellent  starch  food,  and  bread  of  unrobbed 
cornmeal,  whether  in  the  form  of  raised  brown  bread  or 
in  combination  with  whole-wheat  flour  and  nuts,  is  a  re- 
markable protein,  starch  and  nerve  food.  However,  in 
making  breads  of  rice  and  these  various  meals,  it  is  neces- 
sary for  best  results  to  use  a  little  white  or  whole-wheat 
flour.  The  proportion  may  be  varied  as  desired,  but  it 
should  never  be  less  than  one-fourth.. 

White  flour  is  sifted  a  multitude  of  times  at  the  mill 
until  it  is  of  the  desired  fineness,  the  husks  are  discarded 
as  bran,  and  the  heart,  which  contains  most  of  the  fat,  is 
sold  a's  shorts  or  middlings.  Each  of  these  products  is  a 
valuable  food  for  farm  stock,  the  animals  being  kept  in 
fine  condition  on  what  we  discard.  Undoubtedly  one  rea- 
son white  flour  is  so  popular  with  the  American  housewife 
is  because  it  keeps  longer  than  flour  made  with  the  whole 
grain.  Any  honest  miller  who  grinds  up  the  whole  of  the 
grain  will  not  guarantee  the  flour  to  keep  more  than  three 
weeks,  as  the  large  amount  of  fat  which  it  contains  is 
liable  to  cause  rancidity.  It  is,  therefore,  necessary  to 
renew  the  supply  of  cornmeal  or  whole-wheat  meal  fre- 
quently. 

Another  reason  whole-wheat  bread  and  those  made  of 
allied,  unrobbed  flours  are  not  more  frequently  used  is  that 
modern  housewives  are  not  acquainted  with  the  proper 
methods  of  making  them  and  because  they  are  disap- 
pointed in  the  slightly  coarse  texture  which  is  liable  to 
result.  This  coarseness  is  really  of  advantage,  as  it 
makes  possible  quicker  access  of  the  digestive  juices,  and 
thus  hasten  digestion. 


192  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Flour  for  White  Bread-Making 

The  best  flour  for  white  bread-making  is  that  made 
from  spring  wheat  as  it  contains  a  large  proportion  of 
gluten  which  makes  the  dough  more  elastic  than  when 
pastry  or  winter-wheat  flour  is  used.  At  the  same  time  a 
little  less  flour  is  needed  and  the  loaf  is  whiter.  Winter- 
wheat  or 'pastry  flour  contains  more  starch  and  is  fre- 
quently less  strong;  that  is,  it  does  not  have  equivalent 
elastic  powers.  Bread  flour  is  slightly  granular ;  pastry 
flour  is  more  solid  and  cakes  when  pressed  in  the  hand. 

Comparison  Between  Baker's  and  Home-Made  Bread 

Many  housewives  contend  that  it  is  cheaper  to  buy 
baker's  bread  than  to  make  white  bread  at  home.  On  the 
contrary,  I  make  two  loaves  of  bread  for  four  and  a  half 
cents  each  for  materials  when  flour  is  at  a  normal  figure. 
These  loaves  are  as  heavy  as  those  costing  ten  cents 
apiece  at  the  baker's.  This  leaves  a  margin  of  eleven 
cents  over  the  cost  of  baker's  bread  for  the  fuel  and  labor 
of  baking.  As  I  always  bake  a  pan  of  apples,  a  loaf  of 
gingerbread,  or  some  other  food  demanding  the  same 
temperature  along  with  the  bread,  the  fuel  cost  is  neg- 
ligible. However,  if  baked  alone  about  two  cents'  worth 
of  gas  would  be  used  to  each  loaf.  If  baked  in  a  coal 
range  the  cost  cannot  be  computed,  as  the  fire  is  always 
lighted. 

In  a  family  of  six,  where  there  are  .four  children,  an 
average  of  about  nine  loaves  of  bread  a  week  will  be  eaten 
if  the  bread  is  home-made.  This  will  cost  at  the  utmost 
forty-five  cents.  If  baker's  bread  is  provided,  more  will 
be  required,  but  even  if  it  were  not,  the  cost  of  the  bread 
would  be  ninety  cents,  or  forty-five  cents  more  than  when 
the  bread  is  home-made. 

How  to  Use  the  Bread  Mixer 

A  good  bread  mixer  should  be  one  of  the  first  acquisi- 
tions of  a  new  household,  and  among  the  first  purchases 
for  the  household  already  established.  I  know  no  one 
article,  which,  for  the  expenditure  involved,  will  save  as 
much  time,  strength,  and  nervous  energy  as  a  good  bread 
mixer.  Then  top,  the  bread  will  be  exactly  as  good,  and 
probably  more  uniform  than  if  kneaded  by  hand.  In 


YEAST  BREADS  193 

making  plain  white,  or  whole-wheat,  bread,  pour  in  the 
warm  water  or  milk,  add  the  shortening,  sweetening  and 
salt,  and  the  yeast  dissolved  in  tepid  water.  The  flour  is 
then  added  all  at  once,  exactly  three  times  as  much  as 
there  is  liquid,  and  the  handle  of  the  mixer  is  turned  for 
three  minutes.  It  takes  only  about  six  minutes  to  mix 
up  two  loaves  of  bread,  and  there  is  nothing  to  be  cleaned 
up  afterward!  At  the  same  time  less  flour  is  needed  than 
by  the  old  method.  After  the  bread  has  risen,  cut  it  down 
and  form  it  into  loaves  with  the  least  possible  handling, 
not  even  using  a  bread-board,  but  shaping  it  with  the 
floured  hands.  In  starting  a  rich  bread  like  coffee  cake, 
which  needs  a  sponge,  whip  up  the  sponge  in  a  bowl,  using 
a  heavy  wire  whisk,  pour  it  into  the  bread  mixer,  and, 
when  it  has  risen,  add  the  flour  and  other  ingredients.  If 
the  weather  is  very  cold,  set  the  pail  of  the  bread  mixer 
in  a  warm  water  bath,  as  described  above. 

How  to  Make  a  Sponge 

Two  kinds  of  sponge  are  used  in  making  yeast-mix- 
tures. The  first  is  made  up  of  the  milk  or  water  specified 
in  the  recipe,  the  proper  amount  of  yeast  dissolved  in  a 
little  warm  water,  and  twice  as  much  flour  as  liquid.  In 
the  second  the  yeast  is  softened  in  a  little  water,  and 
enough  flour  is  stirred  into  this  to  make  a  soft  dough ;  this 
is  kneaded  and  dropped  into  the  warm  liquid  which  is  to 
be  used  in  mixing  the  bread.  When  this  ball  of  dough 
rises  to  the  top  of  the  liquid,  the  rest  of  the  ingredients 
may  be  added. 

General  Proportions  for  a  Loaf  of  Bread 

If  bread  is  to  be  set  over  night,  a  fourth  of  a  com- 
pressed yeast  cake  is  allowed  to  each  loaf.  If  it  is  to  be 
set  in  the  early  morning  and  baked  about  two  in  the 
afternoon,  a  half  of  a  compressed  yeast  cake  should  be 
allowed  to  each  loaf.  A  cupful  of  milk  or  water,  a 
fourth  cupful  of  water  in  which  the  yeast  should  be  dis- 
solved, a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  tablespoon ful  of  butter, 
drippings,  lard  or  oleomargarine,  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
sugar,  with  from  three  to  four  cupfuls  of  flour  are  the 
proper  proportions  for  one  loaf  of  bread.  If  a  slightly 
tough  bread  is  desired,  omit  the  shortening.  Milk  pro- 


i94  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

duces  bread  of  finer  texture  than  water,  but  bread  of  the 
latter  keeps  moist  longer  than  that  of  the  former. 

Many  authorities  feel  that  bread  should  rise  several 
times  to  secure  the  best  flavor.  Personally  I  find  that 
excellent  results  may  be  obtained  with  two  risings  for 
bread,  and  only  three  for  rolls,  coffee  cake  and  the  like. 

Baking  Bread 

Undoubtedly  one  of  the  reasons  bread  is  not  properly 
baked  is  because  the  process  is  often  hurried.  Loaves  of 
pound  proportions  should  bake  in  forty-five  minutes  to 
an  hour  in  an  oven  at  375°  F.  for  the  first  three-quarters 
of  the  time.  Biscuits  and  rolls  need  a  hotter  oven,  about 
400°  F.  at  first,  baking  in  about  twenty-five  minutes. 
During  the  first  quarter  of  the  time  the  bread  will  rise 
somewhat  and  will  color  slightly  in  spots.  During  the 
second  quarter  it  will  brown  delicately.  During  the  third 
quarter  the  baking  is  almost  done,  the  last  quarter  being 
needed  only  to  dry  out  the  moisture,  when  the  heat  should 
be  lowered.  Bread  is  done  when  it  shrinks  away  from 
the  pan,  can  be  tipped  out  on  the  hand,  and  held  without 
burning,  and  when  it  sounds  hollow  if  tapped.  Even  the 
shape  and  size  of  the  pan  affects  the  quality  of  the  bread. 
If  too  deep,  the  bread  will  be  coarse  and  soggy,  if  too 
shallow  and  wide,  it  is  liable  to.  be  dark  and  the  crust  very 
brittle.  Round  pans  should  not  be  used.  The  best  size 
is  seven  and  a  half  inches  long  by  four  and  a  quarter 
inches  wide,  and  three  inches  deep. 

Treatment  of  the  Finished  Loaf 

To  produce  a  teader  crust,  rub  the  warm  loaf  with  a 
little  butter  or  oleomargarine.  To  produce  a  crisp  crust, 
beat  up  a  little  egg  white  and  brush  over  the  loaf  when 
almost  done.  To  produce  a  very  soft  crust,  make  a  paste 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  corn  starch  dissolved  in  a  little  cold 
water  and  cook  in  half  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  for  a 
few  minutes.  Apply  this  with  a  pastry  brush  shortly 
before  the  bread  is  done.  If  the  bread  is  to  be  sprinkled 
with  sugar,  or  sugar,  nuts  and  cinnamon,  dredge  these 
over  the  paste  before  returning  it  to  the  oven,  so  that  they 
will  literally  cook  on.  When  bread  is  done,  it  should 
never  be  turned  into  a  cloth  and  covered  while  cooling,  as 


YEAST  BREADS  195 

this  affects  the  flavor  and  makes  the  loaf  soggy.  A  wire 
cake-rack,  which  allows  a  free  circulation  of  air,  should 
be  used  instead.  A  stone  jar  is  the  best  utensil  in  which 
to  store  the  bread.  However,  cut  slices  and  bits  of  loaves 
should  be  kept  in  a  separate  closed  utensil,  as  they  fur- 
nish an  excellent  surface  for  the  growth  of  mold. 

Bread,  or  spring  wheat  flour,  gives  the  best  results  in 
the  following  recipes. 

Salt-Rising  Bread 

4  tablespoonfuls  white  corn-  i  teaspoon fnl  salt 

meal  i  teaspoonftil  sugar 

Boiling  new  milk  Bread  flour  to  knead 
i  pint  tepid  water 

Scald  the  white  cornmeal  with  the  boiling  new  milk  to  a 
thick  batter,  and  set  in  a  warm  place  to  rise  over  night. 
In  the  morning  it  should  be  somewhat  light.  To  this 
sponge  add  the  warm  water,  the  salt  and  sugar,  and 
thicken  with  flour  to  a  medium  sponge.  Set  this  in  a 
warm  water  bath,  and  keep  the  same  temperature  until 
raised  light.  It  will  be  necessary  to  change  the  water 
occasionally.  Keep  it  near  the  stove  if  possible.  When 
it  is  light  enough,  add  flour  to  knead.  Shape  at  once  into 
loaves,  and  when  double  in  bulk  bake  as  usual. 

White  Yeast  Bread  (Over  Night) 

2  loaves  at  4-2  cents  each 

cupful  water oo 

cupful  milk 02 

teaspoonful  sugar 1 

teaspoonful  salt k 005 

tablespoonful  beef   drippings  J 

i  cupful  tepid  water oo 

\  compressed  yeast  cake 01 

Bread  flour  to  knead,  6  or  7  cupfuls    05 \ 

.09 

Dissolve  the  drippings  in  the  hot  milk,  and  pour  into  a 
bowl,  add  the  water,  cool  till  lukewarm.  Dissolve  the 
yeast  in  the  warm  water ;  add  to  the  milk,  with  the  sugar 
and  salt.  Gradually  add  flour  to  make  a  stiff  batter, 
stirring  vigorously.  Turn  onto  a  slightly  floured  board 
and  knead  ten  minutes. 


196  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Set  to  rise  in  a  warm  place  until  double  in  bulk.  Turn 
onto  a  board  and  form  into  loaves,  with  as  little  kneading 
as  possible. 

Let  rise  again,  and  bake  about  forty-five  minutes. 

Entire  Wheat  Bread  (5  Hours) 

2  cupfuls  scalded  milk  I  compressed  yeast  cake 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar  or  1  cupful  tepid  water 

Barbadoes  molasses  Entire  wheat  flour  to  knead 
2  teaspoon  fuis  salt 

Add  the  sweetening  and  salt  to  the  milk.  Cool,  and, 
when  lukewarm,  add  the  yeast  dissolved  in  the  tepid 
water.  Stir  in  flour  to  make  a  stiff  batter  and  knead  till 
elastic.  Place  in  a  well-oiled  bowl;  wipe  over  the  top 
with  a  little  melted  fat  so  that  a  crust  will  not  form,  and 
let  rise  until  double  in  bulk.  Form  into  loaves,  let  rise 
again,  until  nearly  double,  and  bake  forty-five  to  fifty 
minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  A  half  pound  of  seeded 
raisins  may  be  added  to  the  dough  if  desired. 

Unkneaded  Graham  Bread  (Over  Night) 

§  compressed  yeast  cake  dis-  i  teaspoonful  salt 

solved    in    i    cupful    tepid  i  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses 

water  3  cupfuls  graham  meal 

2  cupfuls  scalded  milk  Bread  flour 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 
drippings 

Add  the  fat,  molasses  and  salt  to  the  milk.  Cool  until 
tepid,  then  add  the  yeast  and  the  meal,  beating  thoroughly. 
Beat  in  bread  flour  until  not  quite  thick  enough  to  knead, 
cover  and  let  stand  to  rise  over  night.  In  the  morning 
cut  down,  divide  into  two  or  three  loaves,  turn  into  well- 
oiled  bread  pans,  smooth  the  top  with  a  knife,  and  let 
stand  till  double  in  bulk.  Bake  an  hour  in  a  slow  oven. 

Gluten  Bread  (6  Hours) 

3  cupfuls  tepid  water  or  milk          i  tablespoon ful  butter,  or 
ii  compressed  yeast  cakes  other  shortening 

I  tablespoonful   sugar  ii  teaspoonfuls  salt 

6  cupfuls  gluten  flour 

Dissolve  the  yeast  in  a  half  cupful  of  the  warm  liquid, 
combine  with  the  whole  amount  of  liquid  and  beat  in  two 
cupfuls  of  the  flour.  Let  stand  in  a  warm  place  until 


YEAST  BREADS  197 

spongy,  about  an  hour  and  a  half.  Then  add  the  sugar, 
salt  and  the  shortening,  melted,  and  beat  in  the  remain- 
ing flour.  If  necessary,  add  more  flour  until  the  mixture 
is  thick  enough  to  knead.  Knead  until  elastic,  let  rise 
till  double  in  bulk,  shape  into  loaves,  and,  when  light,  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  from  fifty  minutes  to  an  hour. 

Unkneaded  Rye  Bread  (5  Hours) 

2  cupfuls  rye  meal  2  cupfuls  .water  or  milk,  in- 
2  cupfuls  bread  flour  eluding  wetting  for  yeast 

2  tablespoon fuls  sugar  i  tablespoonful    melted    but- 
i  compressed  yeast  cake  ter  or  drippings 

Sift  together  the  dry  ingredients;  add  the  liquid,  which 
should  be  tepid,  yeast  and  shortening.  Mix  well,  place 
in  well-oiled  bread  pans,  let  rise  till  double  in  bulk  and 
bake  forty-five  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  This  makes 
one  large  or  two  small  loaves.  If  started  at  eight  o'clock, 
it  can  be  finished  by  one. 

Rice  Bread  (6  Hours) 

I  cupful  tepid  water  i  cupful  milk 

I  compressed  yeast  cake  ii  teaspoonfuls  salt 

li  tablespoonfuls  sugar  is  tablespoonfuls   butter, 

1  cupful  brown   or   uncoated  drippings,  or  oleomarga- 
rice,  cooked  to  a  mush  in  rine 

slightly  salted  water  Bread  flour 

Dissolve  the  yeast  in  the  water,  and  add  a  cupful  of 
flour ;  let  rise  until  light  and  spongy,  then  add  the  shorten- 
ing, melted,  the  sugar,  salt  and  the  milk  slightly  warmed. 
In  the  meantime  the  rice  should  be  cooked  until  very  soft, 
but  not  really  wet,  and  should  be  rubbed  through  a  sieve 
into  the  sponge.  Work  in  flour  to  knead  —  about  4  cup- 
fuls. Cut  down  and  shape  into  two  loaves ;  let  rise  till 
light  again,  and  bake  forty-five  minutes  in  a  moderate 
oven. 

White  Yeast  Bread  (5  Hours) 

2  cupfuls   scalded  milk  or    i  batter,  probably  6  to  8  cup- 
cupful  water  and  i  cupful  fuls 

milk  i  cupful  tepid  water 

I  tablespoonful  butter,  oleo-  i  teaspoonful  salt 

margarine,  or  drippings  i  compressed  yeast  cake 

Bread  flour  to  make  a  stiff  i  tablespoonful  sugar 

Dissolve  the  shortening  in  the  hot  milk.     Pour  into  a 


198  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

bowl,  and  cool,  till  lukewarm.  Dissolve  the  yeast  in 
warm  water;  add  to  the  milk,  with  the  sugar  and  salt. 
Gradually  add  flour  to  make  a  stiff  batter,  stirring  vigor- 
ously with  a  wire  whisk.  Turn  onto  a  slightly  floured 
board  and  knead  until  elastic.  Set  to  rise  in  a  warm 
place  till  double  in  bulk.  Form  into  loaves  with  as  little 
kneading  as  possible.  Let  rise  again  and  then  bake  about 
forty-five  minutes. 

Cornmeal  and  Wheat  Bread  (5  Hours) 

i  pint  scalded  milk  ii  teaspoonfuls  salt 

i  compressed  yeast  cake  i  cupful  home-ground  corn- 

1  cupful  tepid  water  meal 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter,  or  White  or  whole  wheat  flour 
other  fat  to  knead 

3  tablespoonfuls  sugar,  or 
Barbadoes  molasses 

Pour  the  scalded  milk  onto  the  corn  meal,  fat,  sweeten- 
ing and  salt.  When  tepid,  add  the  yeast  dissolved  in  the 
water,  and  beat  in  flour  to  knead.  If  desired,  a  cupful 
of  chopped  raisins,  figs,  or  dates  may  be  added  at  this 
time.  .Knead  thoroughly,  form  into  two  loaves,  let  rise 
till  double  in  bulk,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  The 
bread  will  be  coarse-grained,  but  of  nutty  flavor,  and  the 
use  of  the  meal  effects  considerable  saving  of  flour. 

Cinnamon  Loaf 

Reserve  some  of  the  dough  from  plain  white  bread. 
Oil  a  square  cake  pan  and  spread  one-half  the  mixture 
into  the  tin.  Sprinkle  with  4  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar, 
and  il/2  teaspoonfuls  cinnamon  mixed  together;  dot  with 
bits  of  butter  or  oleomargarine.  Set  a  second  layer  in 
place  over  this,  and  finish  as  before.  Let  rise  till  double 
in  bulk,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Spiced  Bread  (5  Hours) 

1  cupful  scalded  milk  \  compressed  yeast  cake 

i*   tablespoonfuls  butter  or  2  tablespoonfuls  tepid  water 

oleomargarine  2^  to  3  cupfuls  bread  flour 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar  \  teaspoonf ul  salt 
i  teaspoonful   cinnamon 

Dissolve  the  yeast  in  the  warm  water ;  add  the  shorten- 
ing and  salt  to  the  scalded  milk  and  mix  the  sugar  a'nd 


YEAST  BREADS  199 

cinnamon  with  the  flour.  When  the  milk  is  tepid,  add  the 
yeast,  then  beat  in  the  flour  and  let  rise  till  double  in  bulk. 
Cut  down,  spread  in  an  oiled  shallow  pan,  let  rise,  sprin- 
kle with  a  little  extra  sugar  and  cinnamon  mixed,  and 
bake  about  forty-five  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Nut  Bread  (5  Hours) 

4  cupful  boiling  water  i  tablespoonful  butter  or 

4  cupful  milk  oleomargarine 

I  compressed  yeast  cake,  dis-          i  tablespoonful  Barbadoes 

solved  in  3  tablespoonfuls  molasses 

tepid  water  i  cupful  nut  meats  chopped 

Entire  wheat  flour  to  knead 

Scald  the  milk,  add  the  boiling  water,  molasses  and 
shortening  and  cool  till  tepid.  Then  add  the  yeast,  and 
flour  to  knead ;  set  aside  to  rise  till  double  in  bulk.  Cut 
down,  shape  into  loaves,  let  rise  again  and  bake  an  hour 
in  a  very  moderate  oven. 

Bran  Bread  (Over  Night) 

i  compressed  yeast  cake  3  cupfuls  tepid  water 

\  cupful  tepid  water  \  teaspoonful  soda 

\  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses  5  cupfuls  bran 

i  tablespoonful  sugar  5  to  6  cupfuls   whole  wheat 

4  tablespoonful  salt  or  bread  flour 

Dissolve  the  yeast  in  the  half  cupful  of  water,  pour  into 
the  three  cupfuls  of  water,  together  with  the  molasses, 
sugar  and  salt.  Mix  together  the  bran,  flour  and  soda, 
beat  into  the  liquid,  together  with  enough  additional 
bread,  or  whole  wheat  flour,  to  stiffen  it  so  that  it  may  be 
handled.  Knead  well,  let  rise  till  double  in  bulk,  cut 
down,  shape  into  loaves  and  bake  fifty  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

Date  Bread  (5  Hours) 

\  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses  ii  compressed    yeast    cakes, 

i  teaspoonful  salt  dissolved  in  \  cupful  warm 

3  cupfuls  quartered  dates  water 

3  cupfuls  tepid  water  Entire  wheat  flour 

Put  together  the  molasses,  salt,  dates,  water  and  yeast. 
Beat  in  the  entire  wheat  flour  to  knead,  and  let  rise  till 
double  in  bulk ;  form  into  three  loaves ;  let  rise  again, 
and  bake  fifty  minutes  in  a  very  moderate  oven. 


200  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Currant  Bread  (5  Hours) 

2  cupfuls  scalded  milk  i  teaspoonful  salt 

i  compressed  yeast  cake  2  tablespoonfuls     butter     or 

i  cupful  tepid  water  oleomargarine 

3  cupfuls  bread  flour  6  tablespoonfuls  sugar 
3  egg  yolks  Bread  flour  to  knead 

1  cupful    washed    and    dried 
currants 

Scald  the  milk  and  cool  till  tepid.  Add  the  yeast  dis- 
solved in  the  warm  water,  and  three  cupfuls  of  flour,  and 
set  in  a  warm  place  to  become  light.  Then  add  the  cur- 
rants, salt,  sugar  and  melted  shortening,  and  the  egg 
yolks  well-beaten.  Stir  thoroughly  and  beat  in  flour  to 
knead.  Let  rise  until  double  in  bulk,  shape  into  two 
loaves,  and,  when  light,  bake  forty  to  fifty  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

Swedish  Sweet  Bread  (5  Hours) 

2  cupfuls  scalded  and  cooled          I  cupful  butter  or  oleomar- 
milk  garine 

I  compressed  yeast  cake  6  tablespoonfuls  lard 

1  cupful  tepid  water  %  cupful  sugar 

3  cupfuls    bread    flour    (for          3  eggs 

sponge)  Bread  flour  to  knead 

i  tablespoonful  cardamom 
seeds 

Dissolve  the  yeast  in  the  tepid  water,  add  to  the  milk 
and  beat  in  the  three  cupfuls  of  flour.  Let  rise  till 
spongy,  add  the  melted  shortening,  then  the  cardamom 
seeds,  sugar  and  the  eggs  well  beaten  and  flour  to  knead. 
Let  rise  again,  shape  into  long  narrow  loaves,  and  bake 
fifty  minutes  in  a  slow  oven. 

Yeast  Brown  Bread 

4  cupfuls    cornmeal    (home-         I  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses 
ground)  i  compressed  yeast  cake  dis- 

2^  cupfuls  boiling  water  solved    in    i    cupful    tepid 

2  cupfuls  rye  or  entire  wheat  water 
meal                                              Salt 

Scald  the  cornmeal  with  the  boiling  water,  then  cool, 
and  stir  in  the  molasses,  the  rye  meal,  the  yeast  dissolved 
in  the  tepid  water,  and  enough  extra  tepid  water  to  make 
a  stiff  dry  batter.  Then  pour  into  medium-sized  brown 


YEAST  BREADS  201 

bread  tins,  let  rise  till  light,  and  bake  forty  minutes  in  a 
quick  oven ;  then  cover  and  cook  two  hours  in  a  slow  oven. 

Raised  Biscuits  (5  Hours) 

ii  cupfuls  milk  I  tablespoonful  sugar 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter,  oleo-  I  teaspoonful  salt 

margarine  or  lard  2  cupfuls  bread  flour 

i  cupful  tepid  water  Bread  flour  to  knead 
i  compressed  yeast  cake 

Dissolve  the  yeast  in  tepid  water;  warm  the  milk  till 
tepid,  combine  and  beat  in  two  cupfuls  of  flour.  Let 
stand  until  light  and  spongy,  then  add  the  salt,  sugar, 
the  shortening,  melted,  and  flour  to  knead.  Knead  until 
elastic,  let  rise  till  double  in  bulk,  and  then  shape  into 
round  balls.  Set  in  a  well-oiled  pan,  barely  touching, 
and,  when  light,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Brush  over 
with  butter  when  they  are  baked. 

Raised  Graham  Biscuits  (5  Hours) 

1  compressed  yeast  cake,  dis-  i  teaspoonful  salt 
solved    in    I    cupful    tepid  4  tablespoonfuls  sugar 
water  3  cupfuls  graham  meal 

2  cupfuls  scalded  milk  Bread  flour  to  knead 

1  tablespoonful   butter   or 
oleomargarine 

Add  the  shortening,  salt  and  sugar  to  the  milk.  Cool 
until  lukewarm,  then  add  the  yeast  and  beat  in  the 
graham  meal.  Add  bread  flour  to  knead ;  work  over 
till  very  elastic,  and  then  set  to  rise  till  double  in  bulk. 
Then  cut  down,  shape  into  biscuits,  set  in  a  well-oiled 
pan,  scarcely  touching,  and  let  rise  till  double  in  bulk. 
Brush  over  lightly  with  milk,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  about  twenty-five  minutes. 

Parker  House  Rolls  (5  Hours) 

2  cupfuls  scalded  milk  i  compressed  yeast  cake,  dis- 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  solved    in    i    cupful    tepid 
oleomargarine                                    water 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar  si  to  6  cupfuls  bread  flour 

i  teaspoonful  salt 

Add  the  shortening,  sugar  and  salt  to  the  milk ;  when 
lukewarm,  add  the  dissolved  xeast  and  beat  in  3  cupfuls 
of  flour.  Cover  and  let  rise  until  spongy.  Then  add 


202  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

flour  to  knead,  and  let  rise  again.  Toss  on  a  floured 
board,  and  roll  out  to  one-third  inch  in  thickness.  Shape 
with  biscuit  cutter.  .  Brush  with  melted  butter,  crease  each 
round  with  a  knife  across  the  center  to  form  a  hinge, 
fold  over,  and  press  the  edges  together.  Place  in  an 
oiled  pan  one  inch  apart,  let  rise  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven 
from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  minutes. 

French  Rolls  (6  Hours) 

i£  cupfuls  tepid  water  I  teaspoonful  salt 

ii  compressed  yeast  cakes  About  6  cupfuls  bread  flour 

Dissolve  the  yeast  in  ^  cupful  of  the  water,  and  add 
flour  to  make  a  stiff  dough.  Knead  thoroughly,  shape 
into  a  ball  and  make  two  cuts  on  the  top.  Set  in  a  small 
saucepan  of  tepid  water,  cut  side  up,  and  when  the  ball 
swells  and  floats  remove  with  a  skimmer  to  a  mixing 
bowl  containing  the  remaining  water  and  the  salt.  Stir 
in  flour  to  make  a  dough  stiff  enough  to  knead  —  about  2 
cupfuls  —  and  let  stand  till  double  in  bulk.  Shape  into 
pointed  rolls  and  bake,  when  light,  in  a  moderate  oven. 
Glaze  with  a  paste  made  of  one  teaspoonful  of  corn  starch 
dissolved  in  cold  water  and  boiled  up  once.  This  should 
be  applied  just  before  the  rolls  are  done. 

Swedish  Rolls 

Use  the  recipe  for  Parker  House  or  Sweet  Rolls.  Roll 
to  one-quarter  inch  thickness,  spread  with  softened  but- 
ter, sprinkle  with  2  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  mixed  with 
J  teaspoonful  cinnamon,  J  cupful  raisins  finely  chopped, 
and  2  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  citron  or  orange  peel. 
Roll  up  like  jelly  roll  and  cut  in  three-quarter  inch  pieces. 
Place  the  pieces  in  a  pan  close  together,  flat  side  down ; 
let  rise  and  bake.  When  the  rolls  are  taken  from  the 
oven,  brush  over  with  white  of  egg  slightly  beaten,  and 
diluted  with  J  teaspoonful  water.  Return  to  the  oven 
to  dry  the  egg. 

Sweet  Rolls  (5  Hours) 

1 4  cupfuls  tepid  milk  2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

£  cupful  tepid  water  oleomargarine 

i  compressed  yeast  cake  i  egg 

i  cupful  sugar  Bread  flour 

i  teasooonful  salt 


YEAST  BREADS  203 

i 

Dissolve  the  yeast  in  the  water,  add  to  milk  with  the 
salt  and  beat  in  2^  cupfuls  of  flour.  When  light,  in  about 
an  hour,  add  the  sugar,  shortening,  melted,  egg,  and  flour 
to  knead.  Let  rise,  and  shape  like  small  Parker  House 
rolls ;  let  rise  again  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Hot  Cross  Buns 

Prepare  the  mixture  for  Sweet  Rolls,  add  f  cupful  of 
thoroughly  cleaned  currants  and  ^  teaspoonful  of  cinna- 
mon, if  the  flavor  is  liked.  At  the  end  of  the  second  ris- 
ing cut  out  in  good-sized  rounds,  J  inch  thick.  Place 
these  in  oiled  pans,  let  them  rise  until  double  in  bulk  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Just  before  they  are  done 
brush  them  over  with  a  corn  starch  glaze  and  when  cool 
fashion  a  cross  on  each  of  confectioner's  frosting,  put  on 
by  means  of  a  pastry  bag  and  tube. 

Almond  Biscuits 

Prepare  the  mixture  for  sweet  rolls.  Instead  of  shap- 
ing it  like  Parker  House  rolls,  cut  it  into  rounds  a  fourth 
inch  in  thickness,  brush  them  over  with  melted  butter,  and 
sprinkle  thickly  with  chopped  blanched  almonds.  Set  to 
rise.  Do  not  let  them  touch  each  other,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven.  They  should  be  crusty  all  over  and  sug- 
gest the  German  rusk. 

Cocoanut  Rusks 

Make  according  to  the  recipe  for  sweet  rolls,  shaping 
the  dough  for  the  final  rising  with  a  biscuit  cutter.  Bake 
as  directed.  When  cool,  spread  roughly  with  a  little 
plain  confectioner's  frosting  and  shredded  cocoanut. 
Nuts  may  be  substituted  for  the  cocoanut. 

Clover  Leaf  Rye  Biscuits  (5  Hours) 

1  cupful  rye  meal  I  cupful    milk    scalded    and 
5  cupfuls  bread  flour  cooled 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar  i  compressed  yeast  cake,  dis- 
2  tablespoonfuls  butter,  oleo-  solved    in    i    cupful    tepid 

margarine  or  drippings  water 

I  teaspoonful  salt 

Mix  together  the  dry  ingredients.  Rub  in  the  short- 
ening with  the  finger  tips.  Dissolve  the  yeast,  add  it  to 
the  milk,  and  stir  into  the  first  mixture.  Beat  well,  cover 


204  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

and  let  rise  till  doubled  in  bulk.  Stir  down  and  form  into 
small  balls  with  the  fingers,  putting  them  together  into 
oiled  muffin  pans  to  form  clover  leaves.  Let  rise  till  light, 
and  bake. 

Orange  Rolls  (5  Hours) 

i  cupful  milk     •  I  teaspoon ful  salt 

ii  compressed  yeast  cakes,  3  egg  yolks 

dissolved  in  I  cupful  warm  i  cupful  orange  juice 

water  f  cupful  chopped  candied 

ij  cupfuls  bread  flour  orange  peel 

1  cupful  sugar  Bread  flour  to  knead 
4  tablespoonfuls  melted  but- 
ter or  oleomargarine 

Scald  the  milk;  when  tepid  add  the  yeast,  beat  in  the 
flour  and  let  rise  till  spongy.  Then  add  the  other  ingredi- 
ents in  the  order  given,  and  let  rise  again.  Shape  into 
little  balls,  set  on  a  floured  board,  cover  lightly  and  let 
rise  till  puffy.  Shape  into  pointed  rolls,  let  rise,  slash 
and  bake.  Just  before  they  are  done  brush  over  with  a 
corn  starch  paste  made  of  one  teaspoonful  of  corn  starch, 
dissolved  in  J  cupful  cold  water  and  allowed  to  boil,  and 
sprinkle  with  candied  orange  peel,  chopped  fine. 

Little  Currant  Rolls  (6  Hours) 

2  cupfuls  scalded  milk  i  cupful  dried,   washed   cur- 
I  compressed  yeast  cake,  dis-  rants 

solved    in    i   cupful    warm          ij  teaspoonfuls  salt 

water  2  egg  yolks 

24  cupfuls  bread  flour  2  tablespoonfuls  butter,  oleo- 

i  cupful  sugar  margarine  or  drippings 

Bread  flour  to  knead 

Cool  the  scalded  milk  till  lukewarm.  Then  add  the 
yeast,  and  beat  in  2.\  cupfuls  of  bread  flour.  Cover  and 
set  aside  in  a  warm  place  to  become  light.  Flour  the 
currants,  beat  the  egg  yolks  light,  melt  the  shortening,  and 
add  them  with  the  sugar  and  salt  to  the  raised  dough. 
Work  in  flour  to  knead.  Knead  till  elastic,  and  let  rise 
again  till  double  in  bulk.  Shape  as  Parker  House  rolls, 
and,  when  risen,  make  three  parallel  cuts  on  top  of  each 
roll.  When  done,  brush  over  with  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  diluted  with  one  tablespoonful  cold  water,  and  f 
teaspoonful  vanilla.  Sprinkle  with  sugar  and  return  to 
the  oven  to  "  set "  for  a  few  seconds. 


YEAST  BREADS  205 

Clover  Leaf  Rolls  (5  Hours) 

I  cupful  milk  i  compressed  .yeast  cake  dis- 

i  tablespoon  ful  sugar  solved  in  2  tablespoonfuls 

i  tablespoon  ful  salt  warm  milk 

3  tablespoonfuls  melted  but-  i£  cupfuls  bread  flour 

ter,  oleomargarine  or  drip-  i  egg  well-beaten 

pings  Bread  flour  to  knead 

Scald  the  milk.  When  lukewarm,  add  the  dissolved 
yeast,  sugar,  salt  and  the  ij  cupfuls  of  flour.  Beat  well, 
and  set  to  rise.  When  light,  add  the  remaining  ingredi- 
ents with  flour  to  knead.  Knead  well,  and  let  rise  a  sec- 
ond time.  Then  shape  into  balls  the  size  of  an  English 
walnut,  and  put  three  together  into  each  division  of  oiled 
muffin  pans,  oiling  the  sides  of  the  balls  with  butter  where 
they  adhere,  before  placing  in  the  pans.  When  double 
in  bulk,  bake  in  a  hot  oven,  and,  when  done,  brush  over 
tops  with  slightly-beaten  egg  white.  Return  to  the  oven 
to  "  set  "  the  glaze. 

English  Muffins  (5  Hours) 

i  compressed  yeast  cake  \  cupful  melted  butter  or 

1  cupful  tepid  water  oleomargarine 

2  cupfuls  milk  i  tablespoonful  sugar 

i  egg  white  Bread  flour  to  make  a  stiff 

i  teaspoonful  salt  batter 

Scald  the  milk,  add  the  salt  and  sugar  and,  when  tepid, 
the  yeast  dissolved  in  the  warm  water.  Beat  in  flour  to 
make  a  batter,  about  2  cupfuls,  and  let  rise  till  spongy. 
Then  add  the  shortening,  egg  white  well-beaten  and 
flour  to  make  a  stiff  batter.  Let  rise  till  double  in  bulk, 
drop  by  spoonfuls  into  warm,  well-oiled  muffin  pans,  fill- 
ing them  two-thirds  full,  then  sprinkle  the  tops  with  sugar 
and  bake  at  once  in  a  moderate  oven,  or  cook  as  usual  in 
muffin  rings  on  a  griddle. 

Cornmeal  Muffins  Raised  with  Yeast  (6  Hours) 

1  cupful  home-ground  corn-          I  compressed  yeast  cake  dis- 
meal  solved    in    i    cupful    tepid 

5  cupfuls  bread  flour  water 

2  tablespoonfuls  bacon  fat  I  teaspoonful  salt 

i  cupful  scalded  and  cooled          2  tablespoonfuls    sugar    (op- 
milk  tional) 

Mix  together  the  dry  ingredients  and  rub  in  the  short- 


206  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

ening  with  the  finger  tips.  Dissolve  the  yeast,  add  to  the 
milk  and  stir  into  the  first  mixture.  Beat  well,  cover  and 
let  rise  till  doubled.  Then  stir  down,  drop  into  well-oiled 
muffin  pans,  let  rise  till  double  in  bulk  and  bake  about 
thirty-five  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  If  to  be  started 
at  night  for  breakfast,  use  half  the  quantity  of  yeast. 

Kaised  Squash  Muffins  (6  Hours) 

i  cupful    stewed    and    sifted  I  tablespoonful  butter,  oleo- 

squash  margarine  or  drippings 

3  tablespoonfuls  sugar  I  compressed  yeast  cake 

ii  cupfuls  scalded  milk  Bread  flour  to  knead 
i  teaspoonful  salt 

Mix  together  the  sugar,  salt  and  squash,  and  the  short- 
ening melted  in  the  hot  milk.  Cool  till  tepid  and  add  the 
yeast  dissolved  in  J  cupful  of  tepid  water.  Add  bread 
flour  to  make  a  stiff  batter,  set  aside  and  let  rise  (about 
four  hours)  ;  cut  down  and  drop  into  well-oiled  muffin 
pans,  filling  them  half  full.  Let  rise  till  nearly  double  in 
bulk,  and  bake  about  thirty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 
If  desired,  flour  may  be  added  to  knead,  the  mixture  be- 
ing shaped  into  biscuits  or  loaves  of  ordinary  bread. 
Stewed  and  sifted  pumpkin  may  be  substituted  for  the 
squash. 

Hominy  Muffins  (5  Hours) 

i  cupful  cooked  hominy,  dry          2  tablespoonfuls  butter,  oleo- 
i|  cupfuls  milk  margarine  or  drippings 

1  cupful  sugar  4  cupfuls  bread  flour 

%  teaspoonful  salt     •  i  compressed  yeast  cake,  dis- 

2  well-beaten  egg  yolks  solved    in   i   cupful   warm 

milk 

Scald  the  milk,  and  add  to  it  the  hominy,  salt,  sugar 
and  shortening.  Cool  till  tepid,  add  the  yeast,  and  the 
egg  well-beaten.  Then  whip  in  the  flour  a  little  at  a  time  ; 
set  to  rise,  and  when  double  in  bulk  drop  into  well-oiled 
gem-pans,  half  filling  them.  Let  rise  again  till  the  pans 
are  full,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Serve  hot. 

Raised  Oatmeal  Muffins  (6  Hours) 

i  pint  scalded  milk  i  compressed  yeast  cake 

i  cupful  rolled  oats  i  cupful  tepid  water 

•k  cupful  butter  or  drippings  2  cupfuls  bread  flour 

i  teaspoonful  salt  2  cupfuls  entire  wheat  flour 

i  cupful  sugar 


YEAST  BREADS  207 

Add  the  sugar,  salt,  oatmeal  and  shortening  to  the  milk. 
Let  stand  until  lukewarm ;  dissolve  the  yeast  in  the  warm 
water,  add  to  the  first  mixture,  then  gradually  beat  in  the 
flour.  Set  in  a  warm  place  to  rise,  and  when  double  in 
bulk  beat  again,  and  half  fill  well-oiled  muffin  pans.  Let 
rise  till  light,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Raised  Rice  Muffins  (Over  Night) 

i  cupful  cooked  brown  or  4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

uncoated  rice,  dry  oleomargarine 

if  cupfuls  milk  4  cupfuls  bread  flour 

i  cupful  sugar  i  compressed  yeast  cake,  dis- 

1  teaspoonful  salt  solved   in   i   cupful   warm 

2  well-beaten  egg  yolks  milk 

Scald  the  milk  and  add  it  to  the  rice,  salt,  sugar  and 
shortening.  Cool  till  tepid,  add  the  yeast,  and  the  egg 
well-beaten.  Then  beat  in  the  flour  a  little  at  a  time ;  set 
to  rise  and,  when  double  in  bulk,  drop  into  well-oiled 
gem-pans,  half  filling  them.  Let  rise  again  till  the  pans 
are  full,  and  bake. 

Raised  "  Sally  Lunn  "  (5  Hours) 

i  cupful  scalded  milk  4  teaspoonful  salt 

\  cupful  boiling  water  2  tablespoonfuls  sugar 

i  compressed  yeast  cake,  dis-  2  eggs 

solved    in    i    cupful    tepid  \  cupful  butter  or  oleomar- 

water  garine 

3i  cupfuls  bread  flour  i  cupful  lard 

Cool  the  milk  and  water  till  tepid;  add  the  dissolved 
yeast  and  i^  cupfuls  of  bread  flour.  Beat  well,  cover 
and  set  in  a  warm  place  to  become  light.  Melt  the  butter 
and  lard,  add  to  the  sponge  with  the  salt,  sugar,  eggs  well- 
beaten,  and  the  remaining  flour.  Beat  thoroughly,  turn 
into  well-oiled  shallow  pans,  cover,  let  rise  and  bake. 

Pretzels  (5  Hours) 

i$  cupfuls  tepid  milk  4  tablespoonfuls     butter     or 

I  compressed  yeast  cake  oleomargarine 

\  cupful  warm  water  i  cupful  sugar 

2i  cupfuls    bread    flour,    for          i  egg 
sponge  Chopped,  blanched  almonds 

Brown  sugar 

Dissolve  the  yeast  in  the  water,  add  it  to  the  milk  and 
beat  in  the  flour.  Let  rise  until  spongy,  add  the  melted 


208  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

shortening,  then  the  sugar  and  egg  and  flour  to  knead. 
Let  rise  again,  then  form  into  rolls  about  twelve  inches 
long  and  one  inch  in  diameter,  and  bring  the  ends  towards 
the  middle  of  the  dough,  pressing  them  into  it  about  one 
inch  apart.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven ;  when  nearly  done, 
brush  over  with  melted  butter,  and  sprinkle  with  brown 
sugar  and  chopped  almonds.  Return  to  the  oven  to 
brown. 

Old-Time  Hot  Short  Rolls  (1798) 

2  cupfuls  tepid  milk  2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

i  compressed  yeast  cake,  dis-  2  beaten  eggs 

solved  in  i  cupful  of  the  About  6  cupfuls  bread  flour 

milk  i  cupful  sugar 
i  teaspoonful  salt 

Take  out  J  of  a  cupful  of  the  milk  and  dissolve  the 
yeast  in  it;  add  to  the  milk,  with  the  butter,  sugar,  salt 
and  eggs.  Add  flour  to  make  a  light  dough,  about  2  cup- 
fuls, and  let  rise  till  spongy.  Beat  in  the  remaining  flour, 
knead  well,  and  let  rise  till  double  in  bulk  (about  three 
hours).  Shape  into  finger  rolls,  let  rise  again,  and  bake 
in  a  quick  oven. 


German  Coffee  Cake  (5  Hours) 

2  cupfuls  scalded  milk  i  cupful  sugar 

1 2  compressed  yeast  cakes  Juice  and  grated  rind  i  lemon 

1  cupful  tepid  water  About  $  cnpf uls  bread  flour 

2  eggs  or  4  egg  yolks  Blanched  almonds,  sugar,  and 
i  teaspoonful  salt  cinnamon 

i  cupful  melted  butter  or 
oleomargarine 

Scald  the  milk,  and,  when  cooled,  add  the  yeast  dis- 
solved in  the  tepid  water  and  2  cupfuls  flour  to  make  the 
batter.  Let  rise  till  light  and  spongy,  then  add  the  other 
ingredients  in  the  order  given,  the  eggs  well-beaten,  and 
flour  to  make  a  dough  that  can  be  kneaded.  Knead  till 
elastic,  then  set  aside  till  light.  Cut  down  and  put  into 
pans  in  sheets  an  inch  and  a  half  thick.  Let  rise  till 
double  in  bulk,  brush  over  the  top  with  melted  butter  or 
egg  white,  and  sprinkle  with  sugar  and  cinnamon  mixed 
together,  and  blanched  almonds.  Bake  about  one-half 
hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 


YEAST  BREADS  209 

Almond  Ring 

2\  cupfuls  scalded  milk  6  tablespoonfuls  sugar 

ii  compressed  yeast  cakes  i  cupful  washed  and  halved 

i  cupful  warm  water  raisins 

§  cupful  bread  flour  £  cupful  halved  blanched  al- 

3  egg  yolks  monds      . 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  Bread  flour  to  knead 
oleomargarine  Corn  starch  glaze 

I  teaspoonful  salt 

Scald  the  milk  and  cool  until  tepid.  Soften  the  yeast 
cake  in  the  warm  water,  add  to  the  milk,  beat  in  the  flour 
and  set  in  a  warm  place  to  become  light.  Then  add  the 
raisins,  salt,  sugar  and  shortening  (melted)  and  the  egg 
yolks  well-beaten.  Stir  thoroughly  and  beat  in  flour  to 
knead.  Then  let  rise  again,  and,  when  double  in  bulk, 
cut  down  and  shape  into  two  long  rolls.  Oil  a  cookie 
sheet  and  shape  these  rolls  into  circles.  Let  rise  again, 
bake  until  about  done  in  a  moderate  oven,  then  brush 
over  with  the  corn  starch  glaze  made  by  dissolving  a 
teaspoonful  of  corn  starch  in  a  fourth  cupful  of  cold 
water  and  bringing  it  to  boiling  point.  Sprinkle  with  the 
almonds  and  a  little  granulated  sugar,  then  replace  in  the 
oven  to  set  the  glaze  and  finish  cooking. 

WAYS  TO  USE  STALE  BREAD 

"  It's  only  a  slice  of  bread,"  we  say  as  we  scrape  it 
into  the  waste  can,  but  most  housewives  do  not  know  that 
a  generous  sized  slice  is  approximately  equal  in  caloric 
value  to  a  saucerful  of  rice,  a  small  handful  of  almonds, 
a  good-sized  cube  of  cheese,  an  egg,  a  cupful  of  a  nourish- 
ing stock  or  vegetable  soup,  a  dozen  oysters,  a  serving  of 
codfish,  or  a  slice  of  lean  beef ! 

It  does  not  seem  as  though  much  was  being  wasted 
when  we  throw  away  the  crusts  from  sandwiches,  or  the 
end  of  the  loaf,  but  when  we  realize  that  a  single  slice  of 
bread  wasted  every  day  in  every  home  in  America,  totals 
625,000  Ibs.  a  day,  at  a  national  cost  of  $50,000  daily,  we 
can  see  that  in  that  one  item  alone,  a  great  deal  of  money 
can  be  saved. 

In  preparing  crumbs  the  bread  should  be  dried  in  a  slow 
oven,  then  put  through  the  medium-sized  knife  of  the 
food  chopper. 


210  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Whole  wheat  and  rye  bread  crumbs  should  be  kept 
separate  for  use  in  escalloping  meats  and  vegetables  and 
in  thickening  soups.  White  bread  crumbs  may  be  used 
for  escallops,  fish  loaves,  etc.,  where  a  more  dainty  flavor 
is  desired,  as  well  as  for  crumbing  croquettes,  and  in  mak- 
ing puddings,  etc.,  while  crumbs  from  sweet  breads  may 
be  used  in  escalloping  fruits  and  in  making  puddings  and 
fritters. 

In  utilizing  buttered  toast  or  bread,  keep  it  separate 
from  the  unbuttered  slices,  as  the  extra  fat  is  liable  to 
make  the  crumbs  turn  stale  within  a  few  days.  The 
crumbs  should  be  stored  in  jars  with  perforated  tops, 
which  will  prevent  rancidity  and  staleness. 

Bread  Breakfast  Cereal 

3  ctipfuls    broken    bits    dried          3  cupfuls  boiling  water 
white  bread,  or  equal  parts          £  teaspoonful  salt 
of  white  and  whole  wheat 
bread 

Boil  gently  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  with  a  wire  whisk 
or  fork.  Serve  with  milk  and  sugar. 

Bread  and  Nut  Cereal 

Steamed  brown  bread  (stale)  Chopped  nut  meats 

Dry  the  brown  bread  thoroughly  and  then  grind  into 
coarse  crumbs.  Add  one- fourth  as  many  nut  meats  and 
serve  with  milk  and  a  little  salt,  as  the  main  dish  for  a 
simple  luncheon  or  supper.  Serve  plain  without  nut- 
meats  for  breakfast. 

Bread  and  Tomato  Soup 

1  cupful  diced  turnip  2  tablespoonfuls  sausage, 

2  onions,  chopped  ham,  or  bacon  fat 

2  stalks  celery,  chopped,  or  \  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

teaspoonful  celery  seed  ii  cupfuls  crumbled  dry 

2  cupfuls  canned  tomato  bread  crusts 
i  quart  water 

Combine  the  vegetables,  tomato  and  water  and  cook 
gently  until  the  vegetables  are  tender,  about  an  hour,  re- 
plenishing the  water  to  keep  the  amount  as  at  first.  Rub 
through  a  sieve,  add  the  fat  and  crusts  and  simmer  gently 
for  ten  minutes,  stirring  with  a  whisk,  then  season  to 
taste. 


YEAST  BREADS  211 

Toast  and  Onion  Soup 

12  medium-sized  onions  ij  quarts     any    good    soup- 

12  slices  stale  or  dry  bread  stock 

toasted  Grated,  dry  cheese 

Slice  the  onions  and  fry  them  slowly,  till  soft  and  yel- 
lowed, in  any  good  cooking  fat.  In  the  meantime  toast 
the  bread  and  put  two  slices  in  each  soup  plate.  Put  the 
onions  on  this,  pour  over  the  broth,  which  should  be  boil- 
ing hot,  and  sprinkle  with  the  grated  cheese.  Crumbled 
bread  crusts  may  be  used  for  this  soup  if  they  are  first 
toasted  in  the  oven. 

Scrambled  Eggs  with  Crumbs 

li  cupfuls  coarsely  crumbled.  \  teaspoonful  salt 

dry  crusts  of  bread  j  teaspoonful  pepper 

3  tablespoonfuls    ham,   bacon  4  eggs 

or  sausage  fat  1  cupful  milk  or  water 

Fry  the  crumbs  in  the  fat  till  light  brown,  then  beat 
together  the  eggs,  liquid  and  seasonings,  and  pour  into 
the  crumbs.  Stir  over  a  slow  fire  till  set. 

Shirred  Eggs  with  Crumbs  (Individual) 

Rub  ramekins  or  shirred-egg  dishes  with  ham  or  bacon 
fat,  put  in  each  one  a  tablespoonful  of  coarse,  dry  bread 
crumbs  and  a  tablespoonful  of  milk,  or  tomato  sauce. 
Break  carefully  an  egg  into  each  dish,  dot  with  a  bit  of 
bacon  fat  and  dust  with  salt  and  pepper;  bake  until  set 
in  a  moderate  oven,  about  ten  minutes. 

Bread  Crumb  Omelet 

i£  cupfuls  crusts  entire  wheat  \  teaspoonful  pepper 

bread,  dried  and  crumbled  4  eggs 

i  cupful  milk  i  tablespoonful   ham,   bacon, 
ii  teaspoonfuls  salt  or  sausage  fat 

Cook  the  bread  and  milk  together  gently  to  form  a 
paste.  Then  add  the  seasonings.  Separate  the  eggs, 
beat  the  whites  till  stiff  and  the  yolks  till  lemon-colored. 
Pour  -the  bread  mixture  into  the  yolks,  combine  with  the 
whites  and  pour  into  an  omelet  pan  in  which  the  fat  has 
been  melted.  Cook  as  usual,  setting  the  omelet  in  the 
oven  to  make  the  top  firm.  If  desired,  the  fat  may  be 
dissolved  in  a  glass  or  earthenware  baking  dish,  the 


212  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

omelet  mixture  poured  in  and  the  cookery  carried  on 
completely  in  the  oven. 

Bread  and  Nut  Loaf 

ii  cupfuls    chopped    English  £  teaspoonful  sage 

walnuts,  black  walnuts,  or  i  teaspoonful  salt 

mixed  nut  meats  3  tablespoonfuls  melted  oleo- 

ij  cupfuls  cooked  hominy  margarine 

grits  *  ij  cupfuls  ground  whole 

i  large  egg  wheat  bread  crumbs,  dried 

1  teaspoonful  pepper 

Combine  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given,  pack  into 
a  well-oiled,  brick-shaped  pan  which  has  been  lined  with 
paper  and  bake  slowly  for  forty-five  minutes.  Serve  with 
peanut  butter  sauce,  or  a  plain  white  sauce. 

Bread  and  Ham  Timbales 

2  cupfuls  minced  ham  i£  cupfuls  milk 

2  eggs  separated  I  teaspoonful  salt        *    * 

ii  cupfuls  dried  bread  crusts         i  teaspoonful  pepper 

crumbled  i  teaspoonful  scraped  onion 

Combine  the  crumbs  and  milk  and  cook  to  a  paste. 
Add  to  the  ham,  together  with  the  seasoning  and  the  egg 
yolks.  Fold  in  the  whites,  beaten  stiff,  transfer  to  tim- 
bale  moulds  or  small  custard  cups,  which  have  been  oiled 
with  ham  fat,  set  them  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  and  cook 
until  set,  like  custard,  about  twenty-five  minutes  in  a  mod- 
erate oven.  Turn  out  and  serve  with  white  or  tomato 
sauce,  or  peas. 

Bread  and  Cheese  Pudding 

i$  cupfuls  crumbled,  dry  2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

bread  crusts  oleomargarine,  melted 

2  eggs  I  pint  milk 

i  teaspoonful  salt  ii  cupfuls  chopped  American 
Few  grains  paprika  cheese 

i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Scald  the  crumbs  in  the  milk ;  beat  together  the  other 
ingredients.  Pour  over  the  hot  milk,  transfer  to  a  well- 
oiled  baking  dish,  set  in  a  pan  of  hot  water,  and  bake 
until  firm  in  a  moderate  oven. 


YEAST  BREADS  213 

Bread  Savory 

6  onions  2  eggs,  slightly  beaten 

3  cupfuls  milk  I  teaspoonful  salt 

ii  cupfuls     dried,     crumbled  I  teaspoonful  pepper 

entire  wheat  bread  crumbs  2  tablespoonf uls  ham  fat 
£  cupful  minced  ham  or 

shredded  smoked  beef 

/ 

Slice  the  onions  thin  and  cook,  till  soft  and  yellow,  in 
the  fat.  Then  add  the  other  ingredients  in  the  order 
given,  pour  into  a  baking  dish  rubbed  with  a  little  ham 
fat  and  cook  gently  until  set. 


Brown  Bread  Biscuits 

4  tablespoonfuls  any  good  i  teaspoonful  salt 

cooking  fat  3  teaspoonfuls    baking    pow- 

I  cupful  boiling  water  der 

i  cupful  ground  whole  wheat,  -k  cupful  grated  cheese,  or 
rye,  or  oatmeal  bread  ground  nut  meats,  if  de- 
crumbs  sired 

i  cupful  bread  flour 

Melt  the  fat  in  the  hot  water  and  pour  onto  the  crumbs. 
Cool  till  tepid,  then  work  in  the  flour,  salt  and  baking 
powder  mixed;  pat  out  as  any  biscuit  dough,  shape  in 
small  rounds,  brush  lightly  with  milk  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven.  If  desired,  the  cheese  or  nuts  may  be  worked  into 
the  dough,  making  the  biscuits  very  substantial.  In  this 
case  they  should  be  served  with  a  vegetable  salad  as  the 
main  course  at  luncheon  or  supper. 


Bread,  Tomato  and  Cheese  Stew 

li  cupfuls  coarse  stale  bread  i  quart  can  tomatoes 

crumbs  I  cupful  grated  cheese 

i  onion  chopped  i  teaspoonful  salt 

3  tablespoonfuls  bacon,  ham,  \  teaspoonful  pepper 
or  sausage  fat 

Fry  the  crumbs  and  onion  in  the  fat,  then  mix  the  sea- 
sonings with  the  tomato;  put  a  layer  in  the  bottom  of  a 
sauce  pan,  sprinkle  on  some  of  the  bread  mixture  and 
then  some  cheese,  continuing  till  all  is  used.  A  cupful 
of  any  good  broth  may  be  added,  if  convenient.  Let  sim- 
mer gently  for  about  ten  minutes. 


214  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Bread  and  Meat  Pie 

2  cupfuls   minced   meat,   any  ii  cupfuls  coarsely  crumbled, 

kind  dry  bread  crumbs 

2  cupfuls    gravy,    or    brown  £  cupful    ground    dry    bread 
sauce,  well-seasoned  crumbs 

Few  grains  mace  2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

oleomargarine 

Put  the  meat,  coarse  bread  crumbs  and  sauce  in  a  well- 
oiled  baking  dish  in  alternating  layers.  Top  with  the  fine 
bread  crumbs,  mixed  with  the  fat  melted.  Bake  until 
brown  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Bread  and  Egg  Salad 

3  hard-cooked  eggs  i  cupful  chopped  mixed 
i  cupful  diced  stale  bread  pickle 

1  cupful     olive,     peanut,     or          i|  cupfuls  shredded  let- 
corn  oil  tuce  or  cabbage 

6  pickled  onions,  minced,  or          Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
i  tablespoonful  scraped  on- 
ion 

Put  the  bread  and  oil  in  the  salad  bowl  and  toss  till 
the  oil  is  almost  absorbed,  then  add  the  eggs,  chopped 
coarsely,  and  the  other  ingredients  in  the  order  given, 
together  with  a  little  of  the  pickle  vinegar,  if  the  salad 
is  not  sufficiently  tart  and  moist.  To  this  may  be  added 
a  cupful  of  flaked,  cooked  fish,  as  salmon,  bluefish,  sar- 
dines, etc.,  or  a  cupful  of  diced  ham  or  veal,  or  a  half 
cupful  of  broken  nut  meats,  or  a  cupful  of  chopped  beets. 
If  this  is  done,  it  will  be  necessary  to  increase  the  amount 
of  oil  by  a  tablespoonful  and  a  half. 

Bread  Jelly 

2  cupfuls    broken   bits    dried          2!  cupfuls  boiling  water 
white,  sweet,  or  white  and          £  teaspoonful  salt 
whole  wheat  bread  mixed  i  cupful  sugar 

&  teaspoonful  nutmeg  Juice  and  grated  rind  i  lemon 

Simmer  together  the  bread,  water  and  salt  until  it  is 
thoroughly  blended,  stirring  with  a  wire  whisk ;  it  will 
take  about  twenty  minutes.  Then  add  the  sugar  and  nut- 
meg and,  when  tepid,  the  lemon.  Turn  into  moulds 
rinsed  with  cold  water,  let  stand  till  firm  and  serve  with 
cream  or  milk  and  sugar,  with  any  cold,  foamy  fruit  sauce, 
or  with  stewed  fruit.  If  desired,  quartered  dates,  halved 


YEAST  BREADS  215 

raisins,  bits  of  figs,  or  some  chopped  nut  meats  may  be 
added  to  the  mixture  when  it  is  taken  from  the  heat. 

Egoless  Bread  Pudding 

i  cupful  ground  bread  |  cupful  brown  sugar  or  corn 

crumbs,  any  kind  syrup 

ii  cupfuls  boiling  water  I  teaspoonful  mixed  spice,  or 
I  cupful  mixed  dried  fruits,  the  grated  rind  4  orange 

as  raisins,  dates,  etc.  3  cupfuls  milk 
£  teaspoonful  salt 

Pour  the  boiling  water  over  the  crumbs,  add  the  other 
ingredients  in  the  order  given  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  till  firm  and  brown,  about  an  hour.  Serve  with 
cream,  or  milk,  or  with  an  orange  sauce. 

Steamed  Bread  and  Jam  Pudding 

I  egg,  slightly  beaten  &  teaspoonful  soda  dissolved 

4  tablespoonfuls     butter,     or  in    a    teaspoonful    of    hot 

oleomargarine,   melted  water 

\  cupful  bread  flour  Scant  half  cupful  raspberry, 

1  cupful  ground  crumbs,  any  strawberry,  or  apricot  jam 
kind  i  tablespoon  ful  orange  mar- 
malade 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given,  pack  into  a  well- 
oiled  pudding  mould  and  steam  for  an  hour  and  a  half. 
Serve  with  hard  fruit  sauce. 

Bread  and  Suet  Dumplings 

f  cupful  ground  bread  i  cupful  brown  or  white 

crumbs  (any  kind)  sugar 

|  cupful  chopped  suet  i  egg 

Rind  i  lemon,  grated  £  teaspoonful  salt 

i  teaspoonful  nutmeg 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given  and  tie  snugly 
in  small  floured  pudding  cloths,  allowing  a  tablespoonful 
to  a  dumpling.  Boil  rapidly  for  thirty  minutes  and  serve 
with  lemon  sauce.  To  make  savory  dumplings  omit  the 
sugar,  nutmeg  and  lemon,  and  boil  them  in  soup  stock. 
Use  only  in  a  menu  otherwise  deficient  in  fat. 

Crumb  Tea  Cake 

2  tablespoonfuls   good   cook-          i  egg 

ing  fat,  melted  if  cupfuls   flour 

I  cupful  sugar  i*  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 
£  teaspoonful  orange  extract  der 

i  cupful  milk    ,  I  teaspoonful  salt 


. 

216  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Put  all  these  ingredients  together  in  a  bowl,  beat  well 
with  a  wire  whisk  and  spread  in  a  small,  well-oiled  drip- 
ping pan ;  cover  the  top  with  the  following  mixture  of  in- 
gredients combined  in  the  order  given:  two  tablespoon- 
fuls butter  or  oleomargarine,  }  cupful  ground  bread 
crumbs  (any  kind),  3  tablespoonfuls  sugar,  2  teaspoon- 
fuls  cinnamon.  Press  this  slightly  into  the  dough.  Bake 
the  cake  as  usual  and  serve  warm. 

Bread  Fritters 

1  cupful  milk,  scalded  9  slices  stale  bread 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar  Egg    white    and    fine    bread 
i  teaspoonful  salt  crumbs   for   rolling 

i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Pour  the  milk  over  the  bread,  add  the  sugar,  salt  and 
vanilla  and  let  stand  till  the  bread  has  taken  up  the  milk, 
stirring  occasionally  to  break  up  any  crusts.  Take  up  the 
mixture  in  tablespoons,  pressing  out  any  excess  milk, 
then  roll  in  slightly-beaten  egg  white  diluted  with  the 
milk  that  has  been  pressed  out,  then  in  the  fine  crumbs. 
Fry  in  deep  fat  hot  enough  to  brown  a  bit  of  bread  in 
forty  counts.  Serve  with  any  desired  sweet  sauce. 

Buttermilk  Bread  Muffins 

I  cupful  dried  ground  bread  2  tablespoonfuls  Barbadoes 
crumbs  molasses 

1  cupful  bread  flour  I  teaspoonful  salt 

2  cupfuls  bran  2  cupfuls  buttermilk 
i  egg  £  teaspoonful  soda 

Put  together  the  dry  ingredients,  then  combine  the  egg, 
slightly  beaten,  the  molasses,  buttermilk  and  soda.  Pour 
into  the  dry  ingredients,  transfer  to  well-oiled  gem-pans 
and  bake  about  twenty-five  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Bread  Croustades,  or  Bread  Boxes 

Slice  off  the  crusts  from  a  loaf  of  stale  bread,  making 
the  cut  slices  very  thin;  then  cut  the  loaf  in  slices  two 
inches  thick,  and  hollow  these  out  by  means  of  a  sharp 
knife  and  spoon  to  form  boxes  or  shells.  Brush  these 
lightly  with  melted  butter  or  oleomargarine,  and  brown 
them  in  a  hot  oven,  or  fry  them  in  deep  fat  hot  enough 
to  brown  a  bit  of  bread  in  forty  counts.  Use  for 


GENERAL   UTILITY   WHEEL-TRAY  SET  FOR   AFTERNOON 
TEA   SERVICE 


YEAST  BREADS  217 

creamed  chicken  or  other  meats ;  creamed  lobster,  or  any 
desired  fish,  or  creamed  vegetables. 

Large  bread  croustades  may  be  made  in  a  similar  way 
by  using  the  entire  loaf.  These  act  as  holders  for 
creamed  meat  or  fish,  fried  oysters,  or  a  vegetable. 

Croutons 

Cut  stale  bread  in  half  inch  strips,  then  crosswise  into 
half  inch  squares,  and  fry  lightly  in  butter  or  oleomar- 
garine, or  toast  in  a  hot  oven.  Serve  with  soups. 


CHAPTER  VII 
QUICK  BREADS 

ALL   MEASUREMENTS   ARE    LEVEL 

There  is  almost  no  type  of  cookery  in  which  there  are 
so  many  failures  as  in  the  making,  of  quick  breads,  and 
yet  there  is  no  food  that  ought  to  be  more  carefully  made 
because  it  is  generally  served  at  breakfast  when  the  di- 
gestive organs  are  not  yet  toned  up.  If  the  hot  bread 
is  not  properly  cooked,  and  therefore  easily  assimilated, 
it  is  frequently  the  cause  of  indigestion. 

It  is  by  no  means  necessary  to  be  glued  to  a  recipe 
in  this  regard,  if  one  can  keep  in  mind  the  general 
proportions  of  liquid,  baking  powder,  flour  and  shorten- 
ing for  making  breads  of  this  type.  Generally  speaking 
these  proportions  are  as  follows : 

Griddle  Cakes.  Two-thirds  as  much  liquid  as  flour ; 
a  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder  to  each  cup  of  flour ;  a 
tablespoonful  or  less  of  butter  or  other  shortening  to  each 
pint  of  liquid  and  one  or  two  eggs  to  three  cupfuls  of 
flour. 

Muffins.  The  general  proportions  are:  A  cupful  of 
milk,  2  cupfuls  of  flour,  3  teaspoonfuls  baking  powder, 
and  from  one  to  three  tablespoonfuls  of  shortening. 

Sour  Milk  Muffins.  Observe  the  above  general  pro- 
portions substituting  a  half  teaspoonful  of  soda  for  'each 
cupful  of  sour  milk,  buttermilk,  or  sour  cream.  If  the 
milk  is  not  very  sour,  it  may  be  neutralized  by  the  addi- 
tion of  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of  soda,  and  baking  pow- 
der may  be  added  to  the  mixture  in  two-thirds  the  usual 
quantity. 

Baking  Powder  Biscuits.  The  general  proportions  are 
half  as  much  liquid  as  flour,  from  one  to  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  shortening  to  each  cup  of  flour  and  two  teaspoon- 
fuls of  baking  powder  to  each  cupful  of  flour. 

218 


QUICK  BREADS  219 

In  adding  any  grain  or  meal  to  a  plain  muffin  recipe, 
use  f  cupful  in  place  of  a  cupful  of  the  flour.  The  liquid 
may  remain  the  same  as  indicated,  as  the  grain  will  swell 
enough  to  take  it  up.  Sugar  and  salt  may  be  added  as 
desired,  but  a  word  must  be  said  for  the  unsweetened,  or 
simply  slightly  sweetened,  breakfast  bread.  We  Ameri- 
cans are  liable  to  demand  a  cake  rather  than  a  bread, 
and  then  wonder  why  we  are  conscious  of  the  existence 
of  that  organ  called  the  liver ! 

Baking  Quick  Breads 

The  oven  should  be  hot  (375  degrees  F.)  for  all  baking 
powder  biscuit  mixtures  and  all  muffins.  Popovers  need 
a  slow  oven  (about  300  degrees  F.)  to  allow  for  the  full 
expansion  of  the  air  which  is  the  only  leavening  agent. 
Quick  loaf  breads  demand  a  heat  of  350  degrees  F.  which 
should  be  greatly  lessened  during  the  last  quarter  of  the 
baking  time. 

The  pans  should  be  slightly  warmed  and  very  well  oiled 
with  lard  or  beef  drippings. 

Steaming  Quick  Breads 

Moulds  the  size  of  pound  baking  powder  cans  should 
be  steamed  an  hour  and  a  half.  Large  moulds,  the  size 
of  a  three-pound  lard  pail,  should  be  steamed  four  hours. 
Always  start  the  mould  with  the  water  cold  and  bring 
gradually  to  boiling  point  so  that  the  mixture  will  heat 
evenly  throughout.  Count  the  steaming  from  the  time 
that  the  water  commences  to  boil. 

Cooking  Griddle  Cakes 

If  possible,  use  an  aluminum  or  soapstone  griddle,  or 
even  one  of  steel  and  do  not  oil  it,  simply  rub  it  off  oc- 
casionally with  a  bag  containing  salt.  Cakes  baked  in 
this  way  are  light  and  digestible.  However,  if  a  fried 
flavor  is  especially  liked,  the  griddle  may  be  oiled  easily 
by  means  of  a  swab  or  cloth  tied  onto  a  skewer.  Drip- 
pings, lard,  or  bacon  fat  may  be  used,  or  any  of  the  veg- 
etable oils,  but  butter  or  oleomargarine  burn  too  quickly 
to  be  adopted. 

Mix  the  griddle  cake  mixture  in  a  pitcher  and  pour 
out  to  the  desired  size  on  the  griddle,  which  should  be 


220  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

almost  smoking  hot.  Test  the  ungreased  griddle  with  a 
bit  of  the  dough.  The  cakes  are  ready  to  turn  when 
they  are  full  of  bubbles.  They  should  be  turned  only 
once. 

Choice  of  Ingredients  for  Quick  Breads 
Always  use  bread  flour;  butter  or  oleomargarine  may 
be  used  interchangeably.  Bacon  fat  may  be  used  in  corn- 
meal  and  gingerbread  mixtures,  while  drippings  or  lard 
may  be  introduced  in  any  recipe  if  desired,  although  the 
flavor  will  not  be  quite  so  good.  Skimmed  milk  may  be 
used  instead  of  whole  milk,  but  in  this  case  the  shorten- 
ing should  be  increased  three-fourths  of  a  tablespoonful. 
The  baking  powder  may  be  either  a  phosphate  or  a  cream 
of  tartar  powder.  An  alum  powder  has  no  place  in  any 
household. 

Baking  Powder  Biscuits 

2  cupfuls  bread  flour  2  tablespoon! uls  butter,  oleo- 

4  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow-               margarine  or  drippings 

der  About  I  cupful  milk  or  water 
i  teaspoonful  salt 

Mix  and  sift  the  dry  ingredients.  Work  in  the  shorten- 
ing with  the  finger  tips,  and  add  the  wetting.  Keep  as 
dry  as  possible.  Toss  onto  a  slightly  floured  board,  and 
pat  to  one-half  inch  in  thickness ;  shape  with  a  biscuit 
cutter,  tucking  under  the  edges  so  that  there  will  be  no 
"  remnants,"  place  on  a  well-oiled  pan  with  the  edges 
scarcely  touching  and  bake  about  fifteen  minutes  in  a 
quick  oven. 

Quick  Cinnamon  Rolls 

Follow  the  recipe  for  Baking  Powder  Biscuits,  patting 
the  mixture  into  oblong  shape ;  spread  lightly  with  melted 
butter  or  oleomargarine,  sprinkle  with  a  half  cupful  of 
sugar,  mixed  with  a  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  roll  up,  cut 
in  crosswise  slices  like  a  jelly  roll,  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven. 

Orange  Roll  Biscuits 

Follow  the  recipe  for  Baking  Powder  Biscuits.  Pat 
the  mixture  into  oblong  shape,  spread  lightly  with  melted 
butter,  and  strew  over  one-fourth  cupful  of  granulated 
sugar  and  a  half  cupful  of  finely-chopped,  candied  orange 
peel.  Roll  up  as  in  making  Quick  Cinnamon  Rolls,  cut 


QUICK  BREADS  221 

in  slices,  bake  and  put  a  spoonful  of  orange  icing  on  the 
top  of  each  one.  Use  with  coffee  as  a  dessert,  or  for 
afternoon  tea. 

Quick  Rolls 

2k  cup fuls  bread  flour  I  egg  beaten  light  in  a  cup, 

i  teaspoon  ful  salt  the    cup    being    then    filled 

3i  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow-  with  milk 

der  2  teaspoonfuls  sugar 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 
oleomargarine 

Sift  together  the  dry  ingredients ;  work  in  the  shorten- 
ing with  the  finger  tips,  keeping  the  mixture  coarse. 
Then  moisten  with  the  milk  and  egg  mixture  and  pat  out 
to  one-fourth  inch  thickness  on  a  floured  board.  Cut  in 
rounds,  brush  each  one  with  melted  butter,  and  crease 
each  round  with  a  case  knife.  Fold  over  and  bake  in 
a  quick  oven. 

Savory  Bolls 

Follow  above  directions,  spreading  the  cut  rounds  with 
devilled  ham  or  peanut  butter. 

Walnut  Bolls 

Follow  the  directions  given  for  Quick  Rolls,  adding  to 
the  mixture  £  cupful  of  chopped  English  walnut  meats. 

Marmalade  Balls 

Follow  the  directions  for  Quick  Rolls.  Cut  into  thick 
biscuit  rounds,  put  a  teaspoonful  of  marmalade  or  jam 
on  each,  fold  the  edges  over,  and  place  folded  side  down 
on  an  oiled  baking  pan.  Brush  with  milk  and  dust  with 
granulated  sugar.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Cream  of  Tartar  Biscuit 

1  cupful  milk  i  teaspoonful  soda 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter,  but-          \  teaspoonful  salt 

terine  or  drippings  Bread  flour — probably  2 £  cup- 

2  teaspoonfuls  cream  of  tar-  fuls 

tar 

Melt  the  fat  and  add  it  to  the  liquid.  Sift  the  salt, 
cream  of  tartar,  soda  and  i  cupful  of  the  flour  together. 
Add  the  liquid  and  enough  flour  to  make  a  soft  dough 


222  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Roll  out  to  one-half  inch  thickness  and  cut  in  rounds. 
Bake  about  twenty  minutes  in  a  quick  oven. 

Sweet  Cream  Biscuits 

ii  cupfuls  heavy  sweet  cream          2\  teaspoonfuls  cream  of  tar- 
I  teaspoonful  salt  tar 

1  teaspoonful  soda  Bread  flour  to  roll,  about  2\ 

cupfuls 

Sift  together  a  cupful  of  the  flour  with  the  remaining 
dry  ingredients.  Stir  this  into  the  cream  with  enough 
additional  flour  to  roll  Pat  out  to  one-half  inch  in 
thickness,  shape  with  a  small  cutter  and  bake  fifteen  min- 
utes in  a  hot  oven. 

Dumplings 

2  cupfuls  bread  or  whole  \  teaspoonful  salt 

wheat  flour  i£  tablespoonfuls  shortening 

4  teaspoonfuls    baking    pow-          I  cupful   milk  and  water  in 
der  equal  parts 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients,  and  work  in  the  shortening 
with  the  finger  tips.  Add  the  liquid  gradually.  Toss 
on  a  floured  board  and  pat  out  to  one-half  inch  in  thick- 
ness. Shape  with  a  biscuit  cutter,  place  in  a  colander  or 
steamer,  set  over  boiling  water  or  the  liquid  designated 
and  steam  twelve  minutes.  Serve  at  once. 

Butter  Cakes,  New  York  Style 

2!  cupfuls  bread  flour  i  teaspoonful  salt 

i$  cupfuls  buttermilk  or  sour  i  egg  yolk 

milk  §  tablespoonful  melted  butter 
i  teaspoonful  soda 

Sift  together  the  dry  ingredients  three  times.  Make  a 
hole  in  the  center  and  pour  in  J  cupful  of  the  buttermilk 
mixed  with  the  egg  yolk,  beaten,  and  the  melted  butter. 
Stir  well  until  the  liquid  is  all  taken  up,  and  then  add  the 
remaining  buttermilk.  Turn  onto  a  floured  board  and 
work  until  the  elasticity  seems  to  have  disappeared.  Pat 
out  to  three-quarter  inch  in  thickness,  and  cut  into  bis- 
cuits two  and  one-half  inches  across.  Set  aside  in  a  cool 
place  for  two  or  three  hours,  or  less  time  if  necessary, 
and  then  fry  very  slowly  on  a  griddle,  as  in  cooking  Eng- 
lish muffins. 

To  serve :  Split  while  hot,  and  spread  generously  with 
butter. 


QUICK  BREADS  223 

Yorkshire  Pudding 

li  cupfuls  milk  2  eggs 

ii  cupfuls  flour  £  teaspoonful  salt 

Mix  the  salt  and  flour,  and  add  the  milk  gradually, 
beating  well  to  form  a  smooth  paste,  then  add  the  eggs, 
beaten,  whipping  thoroughly.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  pan 
with  some  of  the  beef  fat  from  roasting  beef  and  pour 
in  the  pudding  mixture  one-half  inch  deep.  Bake  twenty 
minutes  in  a  hot  oven,  basting,  after  well-risen,  with  some 
of  the  fat  from  the  pan  in  which  the  meat  is  roasting. 
Break  in  squares  for  serving,  as  cutting  makes  it  heavy. 

Soft  Gingerbread 

i  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses  3  cupfuls  bread  flour 

I  cupful  sugar  I  teaspoonful  soda 

I  cupful  boiling  water  I  teaspoonful  salt 

3  tablespoonfuls  melted  lard,  i|  teaspoonfuls  ginger 
sausage  or  bacon  fat 

Melt  the  fat  in  the  water,  add  the  molasses  and  sugar 
and  beat  in  all  the  dry  ingredients  sifted  together ;  bake 
in  a  sheet  in  a  dripping  pan,  thirty  minutes  in  a  moderate 
oven. 

Plain  Griddle  Cakes 

3  cupfuls  bread  flour  2  tablespoonfuls  melted  but- 

4  teaspoonfuls    baking    pow-  ter  or  other  fat 

der  2  tablespoonfuls  sugar 

i  teaspoonful  salt  2  cupfuls  milk 

i  egg 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients.  Beat  the  egg  light,  add  the 
milk,  and  pour  slowly  onto  the  first  mixture,  beating  con- 
tinuously. Add  the  shortening,  and  fry  as  in  the  general 
directions. 

French  Pancakes 

Make  as  plain  griddle  cakes,  the  size  of  a  saucer. 
Spread  with  jelly  or  jam,  roll  up  and  sift  with  powdered 
sugar. 

Bread  Crumb  Griddle  Cakes 

i  cupful  fine  dry  bread  $  teaspoonful  salt 

crumbs  i  tablespoonful  sugar 

2.\  cupfuls  sour  milk  or  i  teaspoonful  melted  lard  or 
buttermilk  dripping 

£  cupful  bread  flour  i  egg,  optional 

i  teaspoonful  soda 


224  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Soak  the  crumbs  in  the  milk  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour,  then  add  the  flour  and  other  dry  ingredients  sifted 
together,  and  the  egg  and  shortening.  Fry  as  in  the  gen- 
eral directions. 

Cornmeal  Griddle  Cakes 

t  cupful  home-ground  corn-         2  tablespoonfuls  sugar 

meal  ij  cupfuls  milk 

li  cupfuls  bread  flour  i  egg 

4  teaspoonfuls    baking  pow-          2  tablespoonfuls  melted 
der  shortening 

\  teaspoonful  salt 

Mix  together  the  cornmeal,  flour,  baking  powder,  salt 
and  sugar.  Beat  the  egg  light,  add  the  milk  and  stir  into 
the  dry  ingredients,  with  the  melted  shortening.  Fry  as 
in  the  general  directions. 

Entire  Wheat  Meal  Griddle  Cakes 

3  cupfuls  entire  wheat  meal  3  teaspoonfuls    baking   pow- 

1  cupful  bread  flour  der 

2  cupfuls  milk  i  teaspoonful  salt 

i  egg 

Beat  the  egg  light.  Add  the  milk,  then  the  baking  pow- 
der and  salt  mixed  with  the  meal  and  flour.  Fry  accord- 
ing to  the  general  directions. 

Rice  Griddle  Cakes 

2^  cupfuls  hot  boiled  brown         £  teaspoonful  salt 

or  uncoated  rice  2!  cupfuls  milk 

2i  cupfuls  flour  2-  eggs 

5  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 
der 

Stir  the  salt  and  milk  into  the  hot  rice;  cool,  then  add 
the  egg  yolks  well-beaten  and  the  flour  sifted  with  the 
baking  powder.  Fold  in  the  egg  whites  beaten  stiff  and 
dry.  Fry  according  to  the  general  directions.  These  are 
delicious  with  melted  currant  jelly.  Hominy  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  the  rice. 

Green  Corn  Griddle  Cakes 

I  cupful  green  corn  pulp  i  tablespoonful  melted  butter 

(scraped  from  cobs)  or  other  fat 

I  egg,  beaten  light  i  cupful  bread  flour 

\  teaspoonful  salt  i  teaspoonful  baking  powder 
i  cupful  milk 


QUICK  BREADS  225 

Mix  in  the  order  given,  drop  by  teaspoonfuls  on  a  hot 
griddle,  and  fry  according  to  the  general  directions. 

Popovers 

ii  cupfuls  bread  flour  i  egg 

1  teaspoonftil  salt  I  teaspoonful   melted   butter 
1 4  cupfuls  milk  or  other  fat 

Sift  the  salt  and  flour  together ;  pour  the  milk  in  a  mix- 
ing-bowl, and  beat  the  flour  mixture  in  slowly,  stirring 
thoroughly  to  make  a  smooth  batter.  An  egg-beater  gives 
good  results.  Add  the  egg,  beaten  light,  and  the  melted 
shortening,  beat  hard  for  two  minutes,  half  fill  deep  gem- 
pans,  well  heated  and  oiled,  and  bake  fifty  minutes  in  a 
slow  oven. 

Waffles 

ij  cupfuls  bread  flour  I  cupful    milk    and   3   table- 

2  teaspoonfuls    baking    pow-  spoonfuls  melted  butter 
der                                                  i  teaspoonful  salt 

1  cupful  rich,  sweet  cream,  or         2  eggs 

Sift  together  the  dry  ingredients.  Add  the  egg  yolks, 
beaten  and  mixed  with  the  milk,  the  melted  butter,  if  it  be 
used;  lastly,  fold  in  the  egg  whites,  beaten  dry.  Have 
both  sides  of  the  waffle  iron  hot  and  well-oiled.  Put  a 
tablespoon ful  of  the  mixture  in  each  compartment  and  let 
down  the  top.  When  the  mixture  is  baked  on  one  side, 
turn  the  iron  to  brown  the  other  side.  Remove- the  cooked 
waffles  with  a  fork. 

Twin  Mountain  Muffins 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  i  cupful  milk 
oleomargarine                                 2  cupfuls  bread  flour 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar  3  teaspoonfuls    baking   pow- 

i  teaspoonful  salt  der 

Melt  the  butter  and  add  the  sugar  and  egg ;  sift  the 
baking  powder  with  the  flour,  and  add  to  the  first  mix- 
ture, alternating  with  the  milk.  Bake  in  well-oiled  gem- 
pans  twenty-five  minutes. 

Blueberry  Muffins 

Add  one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  blueberries  to  the  flour 
in  the  preceding  recipe  and  proceed  as  directed. 


226  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Date  Muffins 

2  cupfuls  bread  or  whole  I  cupful  quartered  dates 
wheat  flour  4  tablespoonfuls  melted  but- 

3  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow-  ter  or  oleomargarine 
der  ii  cupfuls  milk 

1  teaspoonful  salt  i  egg 

Mix  the  dates  with  the  flour,  baking  powder  and  salt. 
Put  the  egg  and  milk  in  a  bowl,  beat  together,  add  the 
flour  mixture  and  the  melted  shortening,  beat  well,  and 
bake  twenty-five  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Bran  Muffins 

2  tablespoonfuls  Barbadoes  i  egg  (well-beaten) 
molasses               ,                           i  tablespoonful  melted  butter 

I  teaspoonful  soda  or  other  shortening 

1  teaspoonful  salt  i  cupful  bread  flour 

2  cupfuls  sour  milk  3  cupfuls  bran 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given.  Beat  well,  and 
bake  thirty  minutes  in  well-oiled  gem-pans. 

Eggless  Johnny  Cake 

i£  cupfuls  home-ground  i  cupful  milk 

cornmeal  i  cupful  water 

2\  cupfuls  bread  flour  \  teaspoonful  salt 

$  cupful  sugar  (optional)  2  tablespoonfuls  melted  beef, 

6  teaspoonfuls    baking    pow-  oleomargarine,    bacon    fat, 

der  or  drippings 

« 

Mix  together  the  dry  ingredients.  Stir  in  the  milk  and 
water,  add  the  melted  fat  and  bake  in  a  well-oiled  drip- 
ping pan  in  a  quick  oven. 

Quick  Corn  Muffins 

i  cupful   home-ground  corn-         i  teaspoonful  salt 
meal  i  egg 

1  cupful  bread  flour  \\  cupfuls  milk 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar  3  tablespoonfuls    melted    ba- 
i  tablespoonful  baking  pow-  con  fat 

der 

Measure  the  bacon  fat  in  an  enamel  mixing-bowl  or 
stew-pan  and  melt  it.  Add  the  other  ingredients  in  the 
order  given ;  beat  thoroughly  and  bake  in  well-oiled  muffin 
pans  for  twenty-five  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 


QUICK  BREADS  227 

Graham  Muffins 

i  cupful  graham  meal  I  teaspoonful  salt 

1  cupful  bread  flour  i  cupful  milk 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar  i  egg 

3  teaspoonfuls    baking  pow-          I  tablespoonful  melted  butter 
der  or  other  fat 

Mix  together  the  dry  ingredients,  add  the  milk  grad- 
ually, the  egg  well-beaten  and  the  shortening.  Bake  in 
hot,  oiled  gem-pans  twenty  minutes,  or  pour  into  a  well- 
oiled  mould  and  steam  three  hours,  serving  it  as  a  pudding 
with  molasses  sauce. 

Quick  Rice  Muffins 

2  cupf  uls  bread  flour  i  egg 

i  cupful  cold,  cooked  brown  2  tablespoonfuls  melted  but- 

or  uncoated  rice  ter  or  other  fat 

3  teasQOonfuls    baking    pow-  £  teaspoonful  salt 
der  2  tablespoonfuls  sugar 

I  cupful  milk 

Mix  together  the  salt,  flour,  sugar  and  baking  powder. 
Rub  in  the  rice  with  the  finger  tips,  add  the  egg  well- 
beaten,  the  milk  and  the  shortening.  Beat  thoroughly 
and  bake  in  well-oiled  hot  gem-pans  for  thirty  minutes  in 
a  quick  oven. 

Cereal  Muffins 

Substitute  any  kind  of  left-over,  cold,  cooked  cereal 
for  the  rice  in  the  preceding  recipe,  and  proceed  as  di- 
rected. 

Entire  Wheat  Muffins 

if  cupf  uls  entire  wheat  meal  £  teaspoonful  soda 

or  flour  i  egg 

£  teaspoonful  salt  i  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar 

i  tablespoonful  sugar  I  tablespoonful  melted  butter 

i  cupful  milk  or  other  fat 

Mix  together  the  milk,  salt,  sugar  and  egg,  slightly 
beaten.  Stir  in  the  flour  mixed  with  the  soda  and  cream 
of  tartar.  Beat  well,  add  the  shortening,  transfer  to 
well-oiled  muffin  pans  and  bake  about  twenty-five  minutes 
in  a  moderate  oven. 


228  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Eye  Muffins 

I  cupful  sour  cream  and  2  tablespoonfuls  sugar 

1  cupful  sour  milk  i  teaspoonful  salt 
or  2  eggs 

2  cupfuls  sour  milk  and  i  cupful  rye  meal 

i  teaspoonful  melted  butter  i  cupful  bread  flour 

i  teaspoonful  soda 

Mix  together  the  sour  milk  and  cream.  Add  the  soda 
dissolved  in  a  teaspoonful  of  warm  water.  Mix  to- 
gether the  sugar,  salt,  meal  and  the  flour  and  add  to  the 
mixture.  Stir  in  the  eggs,  well-beaten,  and  bake  twenty- 
five  minutes  in  a  quick  oven. 

Currant  Nut  Muffins 

3  tablespoonfuls  melted  but-          3  teaspoonfuls  baking  powder 
ter  or  oleomargarine  i  cupful  currants 

2j  tablespoonfuls  sugar  i  cupful  broken  walnut  meats 

1  egg  i  cupful  milk 

2  cupfuls  bread  flour 

Combine  the  ingredients  in  a  bowl  in  the  order  given, 
and  beat  well.  Drop  into  well-oiled  mufHn  pans  and  bake 
twenty-five  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Apple  Muffins  ' 

I  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  2  cupfuls  chopped  apple 

garine  I  cupful  milk 

6  tablespoonfuls  sugar  2  cupfuls  bread  flour 

i  teaspoonful  salt  3  teaspoonfuls  baking  powder 
i  egg 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar  gradually,  and  then 
the  egg  well-beaten.  Sift  together  the  flour,  salt  and  bak- 
ing powder,  and  add  the  apple.  Add  alternately  to  the 
muffin  mixture  with  the  milk,  and  bake  twenty-five  to 
thirty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Sour  Milk  Spider  Corn  Cake 

ii  cupfuls  sour  milk  or  but-  3  teaspoonfuls    baking   pow- 

termilk  der 

i  teaspoonful  soda  i  tablespoonf ul  sugar 

il  cupfuls  home-ground  I  teaspoonful  salt 

cornmeal  I  egg 

i  cupful  bread  flour  li  cupfuls  sweet  milk    ' 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients  together  and  then  pour  in  the 
sour  milk,  mixed  with  the  soda  and  half  of  the  sweet 


QUICK  BREADS  229 

milk.  Beat  well,  stir  in  the  egg  well-beaten  and  pour  into 
a  heavy  frying  pan,  containing  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
melted  drippings.  Pour  in  the  mixture,  gently  add  the 
remaining  milk  but  do  not  stir.  Bake  thirty  minutes  in 
a  moderate  oven.  To  be  perfectly  successful  this  cake 
should  contain  a  custard  layer  in  the  center.  '  It  is  de- 
licious served  with  currant  jelly,  as  a  hot  supper  dish. 

Corn  Cake 

ii  cupfuls  bread  flour  2  tablespoonfuls  baking  pow- 

'\\  teaspoonfuls  salt  der 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar  i  or  2  eggs 

ij  cupfuls  milk  2  tablespoonfuls  melted  but- 

ii  cupfuls   home-ground  ter  or  bacon  fat 

cornmeal 

Sift  the  flour,  cornmeal,  salt,  sugar  and  baking  powder 
together.  Add  the  eggs  well-beaten,  the  milk  and  shorten- 
ing. Pour  into  oiled  muffin  pans  and  bake  twenty-five  to 
thirty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Quick  "  Sally  Limn  " 

\  cupful  sugar  2  cupfuls  bread  or  pastry 

3  tablespoonfuls  melted  but-  flour 

ter  or  oleomargarine  I  cupful  milk 

2  eggs  3  teaspoonfuls  baking  powder 

i  teaspoonful  salt 

Beat  the  eggs  and  sugar  together  until  creamy.  Sift 
together  the  flour,  salt  and  baking  powder  and  add  alter- 
nately to  the  mixture  with  the  milk.  Add  the  melted 
shortening  last  and  bake  in  a  large  cake  pan  in  a  quick 
oven. 

Quick  Entire  Wheat  Meal  Bread 

34  cupfuls  whole  wheat  meal  2  teaspoonfuls  cream  of 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar  tartar 

2  cupfuls  milk  I  tablespoonful  melted  but- 

1  teaspoonful  soda  ter  or  oleomargarine 

2  eggs 

Mix  together  the  dry  ingredients.  Beat  the  eggs  light, 
add  the  milk  and  stir  into  the  mixture.  Beat  thoroughly 
and  bake  in  two  small  bread  tins  in  a  slow  oven  about  fifty 
minutes. 


230  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Quick  Graham  Bread 

3  cupfuls  graham  meal  i  teaspoonful  soda 

J  cupful  sugar  or  Barbadoes  2  teaspoonfuls  cream  of  tar- 
molasses  tar 

i  teaspoonful  salt  2  eggs 

1  cupful,  flour  2  cupfuls  milk 

Mix  together  the  meal,  sugar  and  salt.  Sift  in  the 
flour,  soda  and  cream  of  tartar.  Mix  well,  add  the  eggs 
beaten  light,  and  the  milk,  gradually.  Beat  thoroughly 
and  bake  in  a  bread  pan  or  two-dozen  muffin  pans. 

Ginger  Graham  Bread 

2  cupfuls  sour  milk  i  cupful  fine  entire  wheat 
§  cupful  molasses  flour 

2  teaspoonfuls  soda  dissolved  3  cupfuls  graham  meal 

in    i    tablespoonful   boiling  i  egg 

water  i  teaspoonful  salt 

2  teaspoonfuls  ground  ginger 

Mix  together  the  milk,  molasses,  soda,  salt  and  ginger. 
Add  the  egg  unbeaten,  and  whip  in  the  flour  and  meal 
gradually.  Bake  in  two  small  bread  pans  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  fifty  minutes.  A  cupful  of  nutmeats  may  be 
added  if  desired.  Let  stand  at  least  twenty-four  hours 
before  using. 

Prune  Bread 

1  cupful  home-ground  corn-          i  cupful  milk 

meal  I  cupful  chopped  raw  prunes 

2  cupfuls  graham  meal  i  teaspoonful  soda 

*  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses          2  teaspoonfuls    baking   pow- 
I  teaspoonful  salt  der 

Mix  together  the  dry  ingredients  and  prunes.  Add  the 
soda  to  the  molasses  and  the  baking  powder  to  the  meal. 
Mix  the  milk  and  molasses,  turn  into  the  first  mixture, 
beat  well,  and  pour  into  well-oiled  baking  powder  cans; 
steam  one  and  a  half  hours. 

Quick  Nut  Bread 

3  cupfuls  entire  wheat  meal  i  tablespoonful  sugar 

\  cupful  bread  flour,  i  cupful     chopped      hickory 

I  teaspoonful  salt  nut,     English     walnut,     or 

3!  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow-  black  walnut  meats 

der  2\  cupfuls  milk 

Mix    together    the    meal,    bread    flour,    salt,    baking 


QUICK  BREADS  231 

powder,  sugar  and  nut  meats.  Beat  in  the  milk.  Turn 
into  two  well-oiled  bread  pans,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  about  forty-five  minutes. 

Boston  Brown  Bread 

1  cupful  graham  meal  2  cupfuls  sour  mik  or  butter- 
I  cupful  rye  meal  milk 

2  cupfuls  home-ground  corn-          I  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses 
meal  I  teaspoonful  soda 

1  teaspoonful  salt 

Mix  together  the  sour  milk  and  molasses ;  add  the  soda, 
dissolved  in  a  tablespoonful  of  warm  water,  and  beat  in 
the  meal.  Divide  into  three-pound  baking  powder  tins, 
well-oiled,  and  steam  for  one  and  a  half  hours.  A  few 
raisins  may  be  added  with  the  meal  if  desired. 

Suet  Corn  Bread 

4  cupfuls  home-ground  corn-         I  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses 
meal  i  teaspoonful  soda 

2  cupfuls   graham   or   whole          2  teaspoonfuls  salt 

wheat  flour  3  cupfuls  sour  milk,  or  but- 

1  cupful  finely  ground  suet  termilk 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients,  except  the  soda,  and  rub  in 
the  suet  with  the  finger  tips.  Add  the  soda  to  the  mo- 
lasses, combine  with  the  sour  milk,  and  beat  into  the 
mixture.  Pour  into  well-oiled  moulds,  filling  them  two- 
thirds  full,  cover  and  steam  for  four  hours.  A  cup- 
ful of  stoned,  quartered  raw  prunes  or  raisins  may  be 
added. 

French  Toast 

12  slices   of  white  bread    (24          I  egg 

hours  old)  I  teaspoonful  sugar 

3  cupfuls  milk  Few  grains  of  salt 

Let  the  bread  stand  in  the  milk,  egg,  sugar  and  salt 
for  a  few  minutes  to  become  soft.  Then  fry  on  a  hot 
griddle,  well-oiled  with  beef  drippings,  lard  or  a  vegeta- 
ble cooking  oil.  Fry  quickly,  so  that  the  toast  will  be 
crisp  on  the  outside  and  soft  inside. 

Cornmeal  Crackers 

2  cupfuls  home-ground  corn-         2  cupfuls  boiling  water 
meal  2  tables.poonfuls  melted  but- 

2  teaspoonfuls  salt  ter  or  other  fat 


232  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Mix  the  cornmeal  and  salt  and  beat  it  slowly  into  the 
boiling  water.  Add  the  fat  and  spread  the  mixture  in 
a  large  dripping  pan,  keeping  it  thin.  Bake  until  crisp 
in  a  quick  oven  and  cut  in  squares  for  serving. 

Cinnamon  Toast 

White  bread,  24  hours  old  Cinnamon 

Powdered  sugar  Butter 

Cut  the  bread  in  one-fourth  inch  slices,  trim  off  the 
crusts  and  toast  quickly,  so  that  it  will  be  crisp  on  the 
outside  and  soft  on  the  inside.  Spread  with  butter,  and 
sprinkle  thickly  with  powdered  sugar,  mixed  with  cin- 
namon, using  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cinnamon  to  a  cupful 
of  powdered  sugar.  This  should  be  kept  made  up  in  a 
sugar  shaker.  Cut  the  toast  in  triangles  or  strips  and 
serve  after  standing  in  the  oven  a  moment  or  two  so 
that  the  sugar  and  butter  may  become  blended. 


CHAPTER  VIII 
APPETIZERS 

ALL    MEASUREMENTS   ARE    LEVEL    . 

The  success  of  a  "  company "  meal  depends  largely 
upon  the  accessories;  hors  d'ceuvres,  or  relishes,  and 
dainty  appetizers  are  to  a  luncheon  or  dinner  like  the 
trimming  to  a  dress,  retrieving  the  plainness  and  lending 
an  artistic  finish  that  the  finest  meal  cannot  attain  if 
they  are  omitted.  Unfortunately,  most  housewives  have 
the  impression  that  caviar,  anchovy  paste  and  other  ex- 
pensive ingredients  are  needed  to  prepare  these  tidbits, 
but  in  reality  the  most  ordinary  materials,  skilfully  com- 
bined, are  quite  as  savory,  and  much  more  acceptable 
because  they  have  the  home  touch.  Whereas  there  is  no 
appreciable  difference  between  hors  d'oeuvres  and  rel- 
ishes, the  more  elaborate  types  like  canapes,  fish  cock- 
tails, or  raw  oysters  are  used  to  begin  a  meal,  other 
simpler  types,  like  fringed  celery  and  stuffed  olives,  be- 
ing passed  between  the  courses. 

The  appetizers  used  to  commence  a  meal  are  as  fol- 
lows: Grapefruit,  fruit  cups,  raw  oysters,  or  clams, 
fish  cocktails,  vegetable  cocktails  and  hot  or  cold  can- 
apes. As  a  general  rule,  it  may  be  said  that  the  fruit, 
fruit  cups  and  vegetable  cocktails  are  more  suitable  to 
warm  weather  meals,  canapes,  and  the  various  fish  ap- 
petizers being  more  adaptable  to  the  colder  months. 

Canapes  should  be  served  on  small  plates  covered 
with  doilies.  A  dessert  or  ramekin  fork  should  be  pro- 
vided for  the  service.  Raw  oysters,  or  clams,  on  the 
shell  should  be  served  on  beds  of  shaved  ice  in  deep 
plates  with  a  garnish  of  lemon  points,  radish  roses  or 
with  a  wine  glassful  of  a  suitable  sauce  in  the  center  of 
each  plate.  Tiny  sandwiches  should  be  passed  with  them. 
Fish  cocktails  may  be  served  in  wine  glasses,  or  in  cups 

233 


APPETIZERS  235 

sweet  green  peppers  and  onions,  mixed  with  a  little 
French  dressing.  Set  an  egg-half  on  each  slice,  sprinkle 
over  the  riced  egg  yolk  and  top  each  egg-half  with  a 
slice  of  stuffed  olive. 

Peanut  Butter  Canapes 

6  buttered  toast  rounds  Narrow  strips  of  green  and 

Peanut  butter  red  peppers 

Thick    mayonnaise    dressing, 

or    well-moistened    cream 

cheese 

Spread  the  toast  rounds  lightly  with  peanut  butter, 
and  place  alternately  on  them  the  strips  of  red  and  green 
peppers,  pressing  them  firmly  into  place.  Pipe  the  may- 
onnaise or  cheese  around  the  edge,  by  means  of  a  pastry 
bag  and  tube. 

Peanut  Canapes 

Cut  rounds  of  bread  and  brown  them  in  deep  fat. 
Spread  lightly  with  cream  cheese,  moistened  with  mayon- 
naise or  cream,  sprinkle  thickly  with  chopped  peanuts, 
put  half  a  stuffed  olive  in  the  center  of  each,  and  put 
wreathes  of  parsley  sprigs  around  the  edges. 

Tomato  Canapes 

6  slices  bread  Pepper 

6  slices  tomato  Paprika 

i  Neufchatel  cheese  2  tablespoonfuls  powdered 

Stiff  mayonnaise  parsley 

Salt 

Cut  six  slices  of  bread  in  round  shapes,  and  toast  or 
fry.  Spread  lightly  with  well-seasoned  cream  cheese, 
and  set  over  it  a  slice  of  tomato.  Sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Pipe  around  each  tomato  slice  a  ring  of  mayon- 
naise, studded  with  mayonnaise  roses,  and  pile  three 
tiny  balls  of  cream  cheese,  rolled  in  the  parsley,  on  each 
tomato  slice. 

Hot  Oyster  Canapes 

i$  cupfuls  cream  2  dozen     oysters      (cut     in 

4  tablespoonfuls  fine,  soft  halves) 

bread  crumbs  2  tablespoonfuls  minced  pep- 
i*  tablespoonfuls  butter  pers 
Few  grains  red  pepper  f  cupful  quartered  mush- 
Few  grains  nutmeg  rooms 

Toast  rounds 


236  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Melt  the  butter,  add  the  mushrooms  and  peppers  and 
saute  (fry)  till  softened.  Add  the  cream,  crumbs  and 
seasonings,  and,  when  hot,  the  oysters.  Stir  until  the 
edges  begin  to  curl,  then  serve  on  well-buttered  toast 
rounds. 

Mushroom  Canapes 

6  round  bread  croustades  Nutmeg 

6  large  mushrooms  3  tablespoonfuls  minced  ham 

1  tablespoonful  butter  I  teaspoonful    green    pepper, 
Salt  and  pepper  minced 

2  tablespoonfuls  thick  cream 

Prepare  six  shallow  bread  croustades,  and  either  toast 
or  fry  them.  Remove  the  skins  from  the  mushrooms  and 
scoop  out  the  gills.  Chop  the  stems,  add  the  peppers 
and  saute,  till  softened,  in  the  butter.  Then  add  the 
cream  and  ham,  season  and  pile  lightly  into  the  inverted 
mushroom  caps.  Bake  five  minutes  in  a  quick  oven,  set 
in  the  croustades  and  serve  individually. 

Oyster  Cocktail  (Individual) 

6  small  raw  oysters  i  drop  tabasco 

•k  tablespoonful         tomato  Few  grains  salt 

catsup  i  teaspoonful  celery, 
i  tablespoonful     vinegar     or  chopped  fine 

lemon  juice  i  teaspoonful  fine  Worces- 
Grated  orange  rind  tershire 

Mix  the  ingredients,  chill  thoroughly  and  serve. 

Baked  Oysters  on  the  Half  Shell 

Allow  six  oysters  to  a  person.  Place  the  oysters  on 
the  half  shell  in  a  dripping  pan,  lay  a  tiny  bit  of  bacon 
on  each  one  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  till  the  oysters 
curl,  about  five  minutes.  Serve  garnished  with  a  slice 
of  lemon  decorated  with  strips  of  pimento,  fringed  celery 
and  parsley. 

Crab  Flake  Cocktail 

5  well-shaped  green  peppers  6  tablespoonfuls  catsup 

6  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice  i  tablespoonful  horseradish 
I  teaspoonful  cur-ry  powder  I  teaspoonful    Worcester- 
il  cupfuls  crab  flakes  cut  in  shire 

inch  lengths  Lettuce  hearts 

Cut  the  peppers  in  halves,  crosswise,  scraping  out  the 
seeds  and  core,  rinse  in  cold  water,  dry  and  fill  with  a 


APPETIZERS  237 

sauce  made  of  the  catsup,  lemon  juice,  etc.  Place  on  a 
bed  of  lettuce  hearts,  arrange  on  individual  plates,  and 
dispose  the  flakes  on  the  leaves  around  the  base  of  each 
cup. 

Clam  Cocktail  (Individual) 

6  Little  Neck  clams  I  tablespoonful  tomato  cat- 

•k  tablespoonful  lemon  juice  sup 

i  teaspoonful    grated    horse-  Few  drops  Worcestershire 

radish  i  teaspoonful  celery  salt 

i  drop  tabasco  Few  grains  curry  powder 

1  tablespoonful  grapefruit 
juice 

Discard  the  hard  heads  of  the  clams  and  wash  the 
clams  carefully  to  remove  any  grit.  Mix  together  the 
sauce  ingredients,  add  the  clams,  cover  and  let  stand  one 
hour  in  a  cold  place  before  serving. 

Clam  and  Grapefruit  Cocktail 

24  Little   Neck  clams  Dash  tabasco 

Carpels  from  2  grapefruit  Grating  orange  rind 

2  tablespoonfuls  shredded  i  teaspoonful   Worcester- 
red  and  green  peppers  shire 

i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice  Few  grains  curry  powder 

i  teaspoonful  salt 

Wash  the  clams  thoroughly.  Cut  the  carpels  from  the 
grapefruit  and  separate  into  four  pieces  each.  Put  the 
ingredients  together  in  a  bowl,  mix,  cover  and  chill 
thoroughly.  Serve  in  lemon  or  green  pepper  cups. 

Scallop  Cocktail 

I  teaspoonful  chopped  pars-  I  teaspoonful  salt 

ley  I  teaspoonful   French  mus- 

i  teaspoonful  scraped  onion  tard 

i  teaspoonful  olive  oil  2  tablespoonfuls  tarragon 

10  drops  tabasco  sauce  vinegar 

i  teaspoonful  Worcestershire  \  cupful  tomato  catsup 

ii  cupfuls  small  scallops  I  tablespoonful  grated  horse- 

6  green  pepper   or  hollowed  radish 
tomato  cups 

Cook  the  scallops  for  five  minutes  in  salted  boiling 
water.  Drain,  chill  and  halve  them ;  mix  together  the 
balance  of  the  ingredients,  add  the  scallops  and  divide 
in  six  portions  into  the  cups. 


238  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Tuna  Fish  Cocktail,  in  Orange  Cups  (Individual) 

6  large  flakes  tuna  fish  i  tablespoonful  grapefruit 

£  tablespoonful  lemon  juice  juice 

i  teaspoonful   grated    horse-  Grated  orange  rind 

radish  Few  grains  celery  salt 
i  drop  tabasco 

Mix  the  sauce  ingredients  together;  scoop  out  halves 
of  small  oranges,  line  with  fringed  wax  paper,  pour  in 
the  sauce  and  add  the  tuna  fish;  place  individually  on 
doily-covered  plate;  surround  with  tiny  parsley  sprigs, 
and  sprinkle  with  minced  parsley.  Use  the  orange  pulp 
for  a  shortcake  or  orange  jelly. 

Sardines,  Italian  Style 
For  each  serving  allow : 

I  canned  pimento  2  sardines 

i  of  a  shredded  green  pepper          i  slice  lemon 

Lay  the  pimento  on  a  small  plate,  place  the  2  sardines 
upon  it,  sprinkle  with  the  pepper,  and  top  with  the  lemon 
slice,  covered  lightly  with  minced  parsley.  Pass  olive  oil 
to  use  with  the  lemon. 

Tuna  Fish-Balls 

I  cupful  tuna  fish,  pounded  i  tablespoonful   minced   cap- 

I  tablespoonful  finely  minced  ers 

chow  chow  Stiff  mayonnaise 

i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice  Powdered  parsley 

Mix  together  the  first  five  ingredients  with  enough 
mayonnaise  to  make  them  adherent ;  form  into  small  balls 
and  roll  in  the  parsley.  Use  as  an  hors-d'oeuvre. 

Calla  Lillies 

Cut  canned  pimentoes  in  halves  and  prepare  pointed 
pistil-like  forms  of  cream  cheese  moistened  with  French 
dressing  and  highly  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  Wor- 
cestershire sauce.  Roll  these  in  the  pimento  pieces  and 
chill  before  serving. 

Sardine  Celery  Sticks 

Select  tender  celery;  trim  the  ends  square  and  fill  the 
grooves  with  sardine  paste  made  according  to  the  proper- 


APPETIZERS  239 

tions  given  for  making  tuna  fish-balls ;  only  substituting 
sardines  for  the  tuna  fish.  Chill  and  cut  in  two-inch 
strips. 

VEGETABLE  COCKTAILS 

Cucumber  Cocktail  (Individual) 

2  tablespoonfuls  chopped  cu-          I  tablespoonful    minced    eel- 
cumber  ery 

1  teaspoonful    grated    horse-          I  teaspoonful  minced  chives 
radish  I  teaspoonful     minced     rad- 
ishes 

Put  together  with  a  little  strong  celery  stock,  a  dash 
of  salt  and  pepper,  and  mayonnaise,  or  sour  cream  salad 
dressing  to  moisten.  Chill  for  an  hour. 

Grapefruit  and  Tomato  Cocktail 

2  tablespoonfuls  chopped  to-          I  teaspoonful  olive  oil 
mato  2  teaspoonfuls  minced  green 

i  tablespoonful  shredded  peppers 

grapefruit  pulp  Grapefruit  juice  and  mayon- 

1  tablespoonful  lemon  juice  naise     to     moisten     thor- 
Dash  of  salt  and  pepper  oughly 

Combine  and  serve. 

Aspic  Cocktail 

2  tablespoonfuls    minced    to-          \  teaspoonful  pickled  chives 
mato  Few  drops  tabasco  sauce 

i  tablespoonful  minced    eel-          French  dressing  and  mayon- 

ery  naise     to     moisten     thor- 

I  tablespoonful  aspic     jelly             oughly 
cut  in  bits 

Combine  and  serve. 


CHAPTER  IX 
SOUPS 

ALL   MEASUREMENTS   ARE   LEVEL 

CREAM  SOUPS 

The  making  of  a  cream  soup  may  be  an  arduous  task, 
or  but  the  work  of  a  few  moments.  If  one  starts  every 
time  with  raw  materials,  cream  soups  will  be  events,  rather 
than  everyday  occurrences.  But  it  is,  after  all,  but  a 
step  from  white  sauce  to  cream  soup.  The  latter  is  made 
up  of  a  combination  of  white  sauce,  with  half  the  quan- 
tity of  vegetable  puree,  that  is,  sifted,  cooked  vegetable 
pulp,  plus  a  little  of  the  vegetable  liquid,  water,  or  soup 
stock.  Occasionally,  cream  soups  are  made  which  con- 
tain finely  minced  veal,  chicken,  cooked  chestnuts,  or 
fish,  instead  of  a  vegetable. 

There  is  no  greater  aid  to  forehandedness  in  the 
kitchen  than  to  cook  part  of  the  food  one  day  for  the 
next;  in  preparing  vegetables,  for  instance,  enough  may 
always  be  prepared  so  that  there  will  be  some  on  hand  for 
a  cream  soup  for  the  next  day's  luncheon.  Nearly  all 
vegetables,  even  pumpkin  and  squash,  may  be  used  in 
this  way.  Some  of  the  liquor  in  which  they  are  cooked 
should  always  be  reserved,  if  possible.  But  if  it  is  not,  a 
little  water  may  be  added,  together  with  the  desired  sea- 
sonings, and  the  whole  sifted  and  combined  with  the  right 
amount  of  cream  sauce,  made  in  the  proportion  of  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  one- 
third  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-eighth  teaspoonful  of  pep- 
per, and  one  cupful  of  milk. 

The  usual  allowance  of  soup  for  each  person  is  a  scant 
three-fourth's  cupful.  With  this  general  proportion  it  is 
an  easy  matter  to  calculate  the  amount  needed  for  any 
number  of  people.  In  many  cases  the  left-over  vege- 
tables will  be  improved  by  twenty  minutes  further  cook- 

240 


SOUPS  241 

ing  in  water  or  their  own  liquor,  since  in  order  to  make 
really  good  cream  soup  they  must  be  so  soft  that  they 
will  pass  easily  through  a  sieve.  However,  in  making 
cream  of  asparagus,  or  celery  soup,  very  little  of  the  pulp 
can  be  rubbed  through,  as  it  is  so  fibrous.  In  many 
cases  it  is  possible  to  prepare  the  vegetable  stock  for  a 
cream  soup  two  days  before  it  is  to  be  used,  provided,  of 
course,  that  there  is  a  cool  place  in  which  to  keep  it. 
There  may  be  on  hand  the  tips  from  a  bunch  of  celery, 
the  outer  leaves  from  a  head  of  lettuce,  or  the  tough  ends 
from  a  bunch  of  asparagus.  Any  one  of  these  will  form 
the  vegetable  foundation  for  a  cream  soup,  but  possibly 
this  will  not  fit  into  the  next  day's  menu.  In  this  case 
they  should  be  cooked  until  tender,  a  little  salt  added  to 
the  liquor,  strained,  poured  into  a  glass  jar,  covered  and 
used  later.  Many  a  valuable  bit  of  food  is  given  to  the 
chickens,  or  finds  its  way  into  the  garbage  can,  just  be- 
cause one  fails  to  look  ahead. 

Properly  speaking,  cream  soups  should  always  contain 
sifted  vegetables,  meats  or  fish,  but  they  are  more  "  fill- 
ing," if  occasionally  the  vegetable  is  chopped  fine,  or  put 
through  the  food  chopper,  and  allowed  to  remain  in  the 
soup,  as  with  onions,  watercress,  green  corn,  or  spinach. 
This  should  not  be  done,  however,  if  the  soup  is  to  be  the 
first  course  of  a  well-conducted  meal,  while  peas  and  lima 
beans  must  always  be  sifted,  as,  otherwise,  the  flavor  will 
not  be  propery  distributed.  Corn  starch  or  arrowroot, 
as  well  as  tapioca,  may  be  used  to  thicken  cream  soups, 
although  flour  gives  the  most  satisfactory  flavor.  In 
using  the  two  former,  the  same  method  in  making  the 
white  sauce  may  be  followed  as  with  the  flour,  but  if 
tapioca  is  used  it  should  be  allowed  to  cook  in  a  double 
boiler  with  the  milk  until  clear,  the  length  of  time  de- 
pending upon  whether  the  old-fashioned  pearl  or  quick- 
cooking  tapioca  is  used.  The  proper  proportion  is  one 
tablespoonful  of  pearl  tapioca  or  one-half  tablespoonful 
of  quick  tapioca  to  each  cupful  of  soup.  In  case  it  is 
advisable  to  enrich  the  soup,  it  may  be  poured  upon 
beaten  egg  yolks,  or  slightly-beaten  eggs.  If  these  are  to 
act  as  thickening  agents  the  soup  should  be  placed  in  a 
double  boiler,  returned  to  the  heat,  and  stirred  for  two  or 
three  minutes.  In  using  canned  vegetables  for  soup- 


242  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

making  the  liquor  should  be  discarded,  whenever  possible, 
as  this  may  impart  a  "  canned  "  taste  to  the  soup,  but 
it  should  be  replaced  by  the  same  amount  of  water.  If 
the  milk  is  a  little  old,  also  in  case  of  tomatoes  and  as- 
paragus, a  few  grains  of  baking  soda  should  be  added  to 
the  cooked  vegetables  before  combining  with  the  white 
sauce.  A  small  amount  of  cream,  or  undiluted  evapor- 
ated milk,  may  be  added  for  richness.  Croutons,  toasted 
crackers,  hot,  buttered  toast-sticks  of  either  graham  or 
white  bread,  heated  whole  wheat. or  oatmeal  crackers  and 
pulled  bread  are  all  suitable  accompaniments  to  a  cream 
soup.  Occasionally  it  is  advisable  to  add  a  little  extra  fat 
to  the  menu,  and  this  may  be  done  in  the  form  of  a 
whipped  cream  garnish  for  the  soup. 

PUREES  AND  BISQUES 

Purees,  properly  speaking,  are  made  from  heavy  vege- 
tables, like  dried  beans,  dried  peas,  and,  occasionally, 
from  potatoes  and  chestnuts.  The  vegetables  must  be 
simmered  in  water  or  stock  until  tender.  In  case  of  dried 
beans  or  peas  this  will  take  from  four  to  five  hours. 
The  pulp  is  then  sifted  and  returned  to  the  liquor,  and 
the  whole  is  thickened  with  butter,  oleomargarine,  drip- 
pings or  other  fat  and  flour,  which  have  been  creamed  to- 
gether. The  puree,  before  thickening,  should  be  almost 
as  thick  again  as  a  cream  soup,  therefore  it  is  necessary 
to  add  but  little  thickening. 

In  making  bisques  the  fish  should  be  cooked  in  water 
or  stock  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes;  if  oysters  or 
clams  are  used  they  should  be  cooked  in  their  own  liquor 
for  three  minutes ;  the  seasoning  should  then  be  added, 
the  right  amount  of  hot  stock  or  milk  combined  with  the 
fish,  and  the  whole  should  be  thickened  with  butter  or 
other  fat  and  flour  rubbed  together.  A  few  crackers  or 
dry  bread  crumbs  may  be  added  to  bisques  for  thickening 
if  desired. 

CLEAR  SOUPS 

Any  dinner  is  greatly  improved  by  the  addition  of  a 
hot,  clear  soup,  plain  or  containing  a  little  spaghetti,  rice, 
or  a  few  mixed  vegetables,  or  even  left-over  shredded 
lettuce  leaves,  or  finely-shredded  cabbage. 


SOUPS  243 

The  best  type  of  soup  to  use  as  a  stimulant  is  one  of 
those  which  has  a  meat-stock  foundation.  However, 
these  soups  must  not  be  confused  in  food  value  with 
heavy  chowders  or  cream  soups,  and  should  be  classed 
as  accessories  instead  of  foods.  Many  people  object  to 
these  soups  on  the  ground  that  "  they  are  just  so  much 
water/'  while,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  they  are  stimulating, 
and  if  well-seasoned  become  indispensable.  The  foun- 
dation of  them  is  a  soup  stock,  and  whereas  this  can  be 
made  from  soup  bones,  a  little  meat  and  a  few  vegetables, 
it  can  also  be  made  from  scraps  which  accumulate  about 
the  house  and  which  can  be  put  into  the  stock-pot. 

When  the  weather  grows  warmer,  it  is  inadvisable  to 
keep  a  stock-pot  going  unless  one  has  a  cool  place  in 
which  to  store  the  stock,  and  unless  the  family  is  large, 
for  stock  made  from  a  mixture  of  foods  should  not  be 
kept  more  than  two  days.  Of  course,  if  there  are  some 
chicken  bones  on  hand,  the  trimmings  and  bones  from 
lamb  chops,  or  other  scraps  of  meat  and  bone,  they  may 
be  combined  with  a  little  onion,  some  celery  tips  or  seed, 
some  mixed  whole  spice,  and  made  into  soup-stock  to  be 
used  within  a  short  time,  but,  barring  this,  the  house- 
keeper with  a  small  family  must  rely  upon  meat  extracts, 
or  bouillon  cubes,  with  a  well-made  white  or  brown  soup 
stock  for  occasional  use. 

If  carefully  seasoned,  the  meat  used  in  making 
stock  may  be  used  in  rechaufees  or  salads.  The  de- 
sired vegetables  should  be  added  from  day  to  day, 
for  if  they  are  added  when  the  stock  is  first  made, 
it  will  not  keep  well.  Add  the  vegetables  raw  or 
cooked,  or  the  combination  of  vegetables  to  be  served  in 
the  soup,  to  one-fourth  as  much  water  as  there  is  to  be 
soup.  If  it  happens  to  be  raw  cabbage,  it  should  be 
rapidly  boiled  for  ten  minutes;  if  raw  celery,  onions, 
green  pepper,  or  carrots,  thirty-five  minutes,  the  water 
being  replenished  as  fast  as  it  boils  away.  Extra  sea- 
soning may  be  added  in  the  shape  of  a  little  mixed- 
pickle  spice  tied  in  a  cloth  or  put  in  an  aluminum  tea- 
ball,  so  it  may  be  easily  removed,  or  bay  leaf,  some  celery 
salt,  and  so  on  as  may  seem  advisable.  This  may  be 
added  to  the  heated  stock. 

If  beef  extract  or  bouillon  cubes  are  to  be  used,  the 


244  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

vegetables  should  be  added  to  as  much  water  as  there  is 
to  be  soup.  When  cooked,  the  extract  or  cubes  should 
be  added.  By  using  the  water  in  which  the  vege- 
tables are  boiled  all  the  minerals  are  saved.  The  neces- 
sary amount  of  beef  extract  varies  according  to  the 
brand.  The  correct  proportion  of  bouillon  cubes  is  one 
to  each  cupful  of  water.  By  this  method  soups  of  many 
different  flavors  may  be  made  from  one  kind  of  stock, 
or  from  prepared  meat  extracts  or  bouillon  cubes. 

At  the  same  time,  many  left-overs  may  be  utilized. 
Soups  of  this  nature  should  be  served  mainly  as  a  fillip  to 
the  appetite  and  an  aid  to  the  digestion,  for  they  have 
little  actual  food  value.  They  do,  however,  gently  stimu- 
late the  digestive  juices. 

Directions  for  Starting  the  Stock-Pot 

The  term  "  stock-pot,"  unfortunately,  is  little  under- 
stood in  America,  but  it  really  means  that  the  soup  kettle 
becomes  the  clearing  house  for  all  available  savory  scraps 
which  may  accumulate  in  any  household.  These  include 
not  only  bones,  meat  scraps,  bits  of  vegetables,  left-over 
cereals,  rice,  celery-tips,  turnip  tops,  stray  lettuce  leaves 
and  the  like,  but  also  the  parings  from  various  well- 
scrubbed  vegetables,  as  onions,  carrots,  potatoes  and  the 
like,  an  occasional  lemon  rind,  etc.  On  first  thought  it 
may  seem  that  the  stock-pot  is  a  rather  unsavory  adjunct 
and  many  a  housewife  may  sniff  in  disgust  at  the  thought 
of  vegetable  parings  in  her  soup.  However,  the  skins  of 
vegetables  contain  a  large  part  of  the  mineral  matter 
needed  to  assist  in  many  bodily  functions.  When  this  is 
discarded  in  the  paring,  just  so  much  nutrition  is  lost, 
but  when  parings  from  well-scrubbed  vegetables  are  put 
in  the  stock-pot,  another  step  toward  better  health  is 
taken. 

The  ideal  stock-pot  is  light  in  weight,  preferably  of 
aluminum,  and  should  have  a  tight-fitting  cover,  for 
every  whiff  of  odor  that  escapes  means  loss  of  nutrition 
and  savor.  To  begin  stock-making  purchase  a  soup  bone 
and  a  pound  of  beef.  Crack  the  bone,  cut  the  meat  in 
cubes  and  brown  it,  and  add  two  quarts  and  a  half  of 
cold  water.  Bring  slowly  to  boiling  point,  and  then 
add  a  chopped  carrot,  skin  and  all,  two  onions,  chopped, 


SOUPS  245 

and  the  peeling,  two  bay  leaves,  a  few  celery  tops  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  mixed  pickle  spice.  Add  to  this,  when 
half  done,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Simmer  four  hours, 
then  strain;  cool  uncovered,  then  cover  and  remove  the 
fat  the  following  day,  when  it  may  be  clarified.  The 
stock  is  then  ready  for  use  in  making  sauces,  gravies, 
meat-flavored  dishes,  etc.,  and  is  an  excellent  foundation 
for  any  kind  of  soup.  Bits  of  left-over  vegetables,  or 
rice,  macaroni,  celery,  onion  salt,  etc.,  may  be  used  to 
vary  it  from  day  to  day. 

The  stock-pot  should  not  be  kept  constantly  simmering 
on  top  of  the  stove,  as  is  popularly  supposed,  but  should 
be  thoroughly  scalded  and  aired  every  day.  The  next 
morning,  any  remaining  stock,  together  with  the  ac- 
cumulation of  the  previous  day's  foods,  should  be  put  in 
the  stock-pot,  together  with  enough  cold  water  to  make 
the  amount  about  two  quarts,  and  additional  vegetables, 
or  peelings  from  scrubbed  vegetables,  and  seasonings  as 
may  seem  necessary.  Water  from  boiled  vegetables,  or 
from  boiled  rice,  potatoes  or  macaroni  may  be  added. 
This  should  be  simmered  for  at  least  two  hours,  then 
strained,  cooled,  and  the  fat  removed.  It  may  also  be 
cleared  if  desired. 

To  Clear  Soup  Stock 

To  clear  soup  stock,  add  to  each  quart  of  stock  the 
crushed  shells  of  three  eggs ;  mix  thoroughly  and  heat  to 
boiling  point,  stirring  all  the  time.  As  the  liquid  becomes 
heated  the  egg  coagulates  and  collects  the  fine  particles 
floating  in  the  stock.  Let  it  boil  vigorously  for  five 
minutes,  add  a  little  cold  water,  as  for  coffee,  let  it  cool 
slightly,  skim  and  strain  through  a  cheesecloth  spread 
over  a  colander. 

To  this  soup  stock  various  vegetables  may  be  added, 
such  as  carrots,  turnips  cut  in  narrow  strips,  whole  string 
beans,  canned  peas,  chopped  cabbage,  small  sections  of 
cauliflower,  etc.,  or  it  may  contain  rice,  barley  or  tapioca, 
any  one  of  which  may  be  cooked  in  the  liquor,  thickening 
it  slightly.  However,  when  many  vegetables  or  much 
cereal  is  added,  the  soup  ceases  to  be  merely  an  accessory, 
and  becomes  a  food,  although  at  the  same  time  it  does  not 
'lose  its  stimulating  qualities. 


246  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

\ 
CLEAR  SOUPS  AND  SOUP  STOCK 

Beef  Bouillon 

3  pounds    lower    round    of  3  cloves 

beef  3  quarts  cold  water 

I  sprig  parsley  I  onion,  minced 

i  cupful  minced  celery,  or  I  small   carrot,   minced 

I  teaspoonful  celery  salt  5  peppercorns 

i  bay  leaf  I  tablespoonful  salt 

Cut  the  meat  in  inch  pieces,  and  let  stand  in  cold  water 
for  an  hour.  Cover,  bring  slowly  to  boiling  point  and 
remove  any  scum  that  may  arise.  Let  simmer  for  three 
hours,  then  add  the  vegetables,  spices  and  seasonings  and 
simmer  an  hour  longer,  replenishing  the  water  as  neces- 
sary to  keep  the  quantity  about  two  quarts.  Strain,  cool, 
remove  the  fat,  and  clear  the  bouillon,  as  directed. 

Consomme 

3  pounds  lower  round  beef  £  cupful    sliced    onion    with 
I  pound  marrow  bone  peel 

1  quart  chicken  stock  3  quarts  cold  water 

2  pounds  knuckle  of  veal  I  tablespoonful  salt 

i  cupful  diced  carrots  \  teaspoonful   peppercorns 

\  cupful  shredded  celery  tips  3  cloves 

i  cupful  diced  turnips  2  sprigs  parsley 

i  sprig   each   marjoram    and  Bit  of  bay  leaf 
thyme,  if  convenient 

Cut  the  beef  in  cubes ;  brown  half  of  it  in  the  marrow. 
Put  the  balance  in  cold  water;  add  the  veal  cut  in 
pieces,  the  bones  cracked,  and  the  browned  meat,  and 
let  stand  an  hour.  Heat  slowly  to  boiling  point,  and  sim- 
mer three  hours,  removing  the  scum  as  necessary.  Then 
add  the  vegetables,  seasonings  and  chicken  stock  and 
cook  one  and  one-half  hours  longer,  very  slowly.  Strain, 
cool,  remove  the  fat  and  clear,  as  directed  above. 

Brown  Soup  Stock 

5  pounds    shin   or   shank   of  I  teaspoonful  celery  seed,  or 

beef  2  stalks  minced  celery 

4  quarts  cold  water  J  cupful  diced  carrots 
i  teaspoonful   peppercorns  J  cupful   sliced   onion 

5  cloves  4  cupful  diced  turnips 
\  bay  leaf  i  tablespoonful   salt 

I  sprig  each  summer  savory          2  tablespoonfuls   beef   drip- 
and  marjoram,  if  conven-  pings 

lent 


SOUPS  247 

Cut  the  meat  from  the  bone  and  brown  it  in  the  beef 
drippings.  Crack  the  bone,  add  to  the  water,  with  the 
meat,  and  bring  slowly  to  boiling  point.  Simmer  about 
four  hours,  removing  the  scum  as  necessary,  as  fast  as 
it  rises.  Then  add  the  vegetables  and  seasonings  and 
simmer  an  hour  longer.  Strain,  cool,  remove  the  fat  and 
clear  as  directed  above. 

White  Soup  Stock 

4  pounds  knuckle  of  veal  or          Blade  of  mace 

I   large   fowl  2  quarts  cold   water 

i  tablespoonful    salt  i  teaspoonful  peppercorns 

I  onion  2  stalks  celery 

Cut  the  meat  in  small  pieces ;  put  the  meat,  bone,  and 
water  together,  and  heat  gradually  to  boiling  point,  skim- 
ming often.  Add  the  seasonings  midway  of  the  cooking. 
Simmer  four  or  five  hours ;  replenish  the  water  as  it 
evaporates.  Strain  and  cool ;  if  the  scum  has  been  care- 
fully removed  and  the  soup  is  strained  through  a  double 
thickness  of  cheesecloth,  the  stock  will  be  quite  clear. 
For  transparent  stock,  however,  clear  as  directed. 

Vegetable  Soup  Stock 

I  carrot  2  turnips 

i  medium-sized  onion  I  tablespoonful  sugar 

Outside  stalks  and  leaves  of         4  tablespoonfuls   olive   oil 

a  head  of  celery  2  quarts  cold  water 

i  cupful  canned  tomato  i  apple,  cored  but  not  pared 

i  teaspoonful  salt  i  cupful  chopped  cabbage, 
Few  grains  cayenne  (optional) 

Wash  the  vegetables  thoroughly.  Chop  the  carrot  and 
turnip  fine,  peeling  and  all.  Chop  the  celery,  and 
slice  the  onion,  but  do  not  remove  the  peel.  Core  the 
apple  and  cut  it  in  pieces.  Then  caramelize  the  sugar 
a  dark  brown,  add  to  it  the  oil  and  the  carrot,  celery, 
onion  and  turnip,  and  cook  till  slightly  browned,  shaking 
occasionally.  Then  add  the  water,  tomato,  apple  and 
seasonings  and  simmer  one  hour,  well  covered.  Strain, 
cool  and  clear  if  desired. 

Tomato  Bouillon 

1  pint  boiling  water  2  tablespoonfuls  minced  car- 

2  tablespoonfuls  minced  rot 

onion  i  teaspoonful  salt 


248  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

i  teaspoonful  pepper  Bit  of  bay  leaf 

1  teaspoonful  Worcester-  4  cupfuls  boiling  water 
shire  2  teaspoonfuls    beef    extract, 

2  cupfuls  canned  tomato  or  i  quart  beef  stock 

Combine  the  pint  of  boiling  water,  onion,  carrot  and 
tomato  and  simmer,  uncovered,  twenty  minutes.  Dis- 
solve the  extract  in  the  quart  of  boiling  water,  add  to  the 
tomato  mixture,  season  and  put  through  a  fine  strainer. 
To  make  the  bouillon  very  clear,  strain  through  cheese- 
cloth. 

Celery  Bouillon 

i  3-pound  knuckle  of  veal  2  quarts  cold  water 

i  tablespoonful  salt  I  teaspoonful  peppercorns 

i  onion  Bit  of  bay  leaf 
Outer  stalks  head  celery 

Wipe  the  meat  and  cut  it  in  small  pieces.  Put  the 
meat,  bone,  water,  seasonings  (except  the  salt),  and  the 
celery,  chopped  (leaves  and  all),  in  the  soup  kettle,  and 
bring  gradually  to  boiling  point.  Simmer  four  hours,  re- 
plenishing the  water  as  it  evaporates.  Add  the  salt  after 
two  hours'  cooking.  Strain  and  let  stand  until  the  fat 
can  be  removed.  Then  clear  as  usual,  re-heat  and  add  a 
spoonful  of  cooked,  diced  celery  to  each  serving. 


COLD  SOUPS 

Jellied  Canned  Consomme 

Dilute  the  consomme  as  directed  on  the  can,  using 
three-fourths  the  quantity  of  cold  water.  Take  the  re- 
maining amount  of  water  needed,  and  add  to  it  one 
tablespoonful  of  granulated  gelatine  to  each  pint  of  con- 
somme. Let  this  stand  until  softened,  dissolve  it  over 
steam,  and  stir  it  into  the  cold  consomme.  Pour  into  a 
shallow  pan  rubbed  lightly  with  olive  oil  and  let  stand 
until  solidified;  cut  in  cubes  for  serving.  If  desired,  a 
little  lemon  juice  may  be  added  before  the  consomme 
solidifies. 

Jellied  Chicken  Bouillon 

5  cupfuls    well-seasoned  i  cupful  cold  water 

chicken  broth  Few  slices  lemon  rind 

2  tablespoonfnls    granulated 
gelatine 


SOUPS  249 

Skim  the  fat  absolutely  from  the  broth  and  clear  it  as 
directed.  Add  the  lemon  rind  to  the  broth,  and  bring 
gradually  to  boiling  point.  Add  the  gelatine  dissolved  in 
the  cold  water  and  strain  through  a  cloth  wrung  out  of 
cold  water  into  a  shallow  pan  rubbed  lightly  with  olive 
oil.  Let  stiffen,  cut  in  cubes  and  serve  in  bouillon  cups. 

Iced  Veal  Bouillon 

5  cupfuls  well-seasoned  veal          i  cupful  cold  water 
stock  Few  slices  lemon  rind 

5  tablespoonfuls    quick-cook- 
ing tapioca 

Skim  the  fat  absolutely  from  the  stock.  If  necessary, 
clear  it  as  directed.  Then  add  the  tapioca  and  lemon 
rind,  and  cook  gently  until  former  is  clear.  Remove  the 
rind,  season  the  bouillon,  if  necessary,  and  pour  into  a 
pan  rubbed  lightly  with  olive  oil.  Let  stiffen,  cut  into 
cubes,  and  serve  piled  in  bouillon  cups. 


SUBSTANTIAL  STOCK  SOUPS 

Baked  Bean  Soup 

2  cupfuls  cold  baked  beans  i  tablespoonful    sugar 

i  can  tomatoes  3  tablespoonfuls    flour 

i  onion,  sliced  2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

5  cupfuls  stock-  or  water  beef  drippings 

Put  the  beans,  tomato,  onion  and  water  together,  and 
simmer    until    soft.     Thicken    with    the  flour    and    fat 
creamed  together,  rub  all  through  a  sieve,  add  the  sugar, 
season  to  taste  and  serve  with  croutons, 
i 

White  Bean  Soup 

i  cupful  white  pea  beans  Salt  and  pepper 

i  quart  any  meat  stock  .  4  tablespoonfuls  flour 
i  onion,  diced  2  tablespoonfuls    butter,    ba- 

il carrot,  diced  con,  ham,  or  sausage  fat 

Bit  bay  leaf 

Soak  the  beans  over  night,  then  rinse  and  boil  up  quickly 
in  water  containing  a  little  soda.  Rinse  again,  and  stew 
slowly  till  soft  in  2  quarts  of  water,  adding  i  teaspoonful 
salt  and  a  bay  leaf,  the  onion  and  the  carrot.  Sift  through 
a  coarse  sieve  into  the  meat  stock,  re-heat,  thicken  with 


250  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

the  flour  and  fat  rubbed  together,  season  more  highly  if 
necessary,  and  serve  with  croutons  or  hot  crackers. 

Tomato  Stock  Soup 

4  cupfuls  brown  soup  stock  &  cupful  flour 

2  cupfuls  canned  tomatoes  2  tablespoonfuls  onion,  diced 

•i  teaspoonful   peppercorns  2  tablespoonfuls  carrot,  diced 

Bit  of  bay  leaf  2  tablespoonfuls  celery,  diced 

2  cloves  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
2  tablespoonfuls   butter  or 
drippings 

Cook  the  onion,  carrot  and  celery  in  the  fat  for  five 
minutes ;  add  the  flour,  peppercorns,  bay  leaf  and  cloves, 
and  cook  three  minutes.  Then  add  the  tomato,  cover  and 
simmer  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Add  the  stock, 
heated,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Swedish  Cabbage  Soup 

i  pint  finely  chopped  cabbage  %  cupful    chopped    celery,    if 

Bit  of  bay  leaf  convenient,    or 

Few  grains   mace  1  teaspoonful  celery  seed 

1  quart  veal  stock  I  tablespoonful   minced   car- 
Salt  and  pepper  rot 

2  tablespoonfuls  drippings  I  tablespoonful  minced  onion 
A  few  bits  of  veal 

Melt  the  drippings.  Cook  the  vegetables  in  them  for  a 
few  minutes,  then  add  the  stock  and  bay  leaf.  Simmer 
for  twenty-five  minutes,  replenishing  the  Stock  as  needed ; 
season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper  and  mace,  and  serve  with 
the  vegetables  in  it.  The  bits  of  veal  may  be  omitted  if 
desired. 

Mock  Turtle  Soup  (Old  Virginian) 

\  calf's    head,    scraped    and  3  hard-cooked   eggs 

cleaned  1  inch  stick  cinnamon 

I  pound  round  steak  i  blade  mace 

I  pound  neck  mutton  5  cloves 

1  small  onion  10  peppercorns 

2  tablespoonfuls  chopped  car-  i  bay  leaf 

rot  I  sprig  parsley 

2  tablespoonfuls  chopped  tur-  i  tablespoonful  walnut  cat- 
nip sup 

2  tablespoonfuls  chopped  i  tablespoonful  tomato   cat- 
celery  sup 

i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice  i  cupful  flour 

4  tablespoonfuls   butter  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Wash,   scrape  and   clean  a  calf's   head.     Split   it  in 


1 

SOUPS  251 

halves,  using  the  extra  half  for  some  other  dish.  Soak  it 
two  hours  in  cold  water,  then  boil  gently  for  an  hour  in 
three  quarts  of  water.  Separate  the  meat  from  the 
bones ;  cut  the  beef  and  mutton  in  cubes  and  fry  the  meat 
and  vegetables  in  J  cupful  beef  drippings  till  browned. 
Combine  'with  the  stock,  adding  water  to  make  about 
three  quarts,  and  put  in  the  spices.  Simmer  gently  four 
or  five  hours,  then  strain  and  cool.  Remove  the  fat,  heat 
and  thicken  with  the  butter  and  flour  cooked  together; 
add  the  catsups,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  serve  with 
the  hard-cooked  eggs,  chopped,  and  forcemeat  balls. 

Clear  Vegetable  Soup 

i  quart    clear    brown    soup  £  cupful  canned  peas 

stock  2  tablespoonfuls  string  beans 

i  cupful  carrots,  cut  in  nar-  (whole) 

row  strips  I  tablespoonful  narrow  strips 

i  cupful  turnips,  cut  in  nar-  of  onion 
row  strips 

Cook  the  vegetables  in  boiling  salted  water,  simmering 
them  down  until  only  a  little  liquid  remains.  Add  them, 
liquid  and  all,  to  the  soup  stock,  and  heat  to  boiling  point 
before  serving. 

Italian  Soup 

i  quart  meat  stock  i  cupful  carrot  straws 

i  pint  canned  tomato  i  cupful  onion,  chopped 

i  cupful  cooked  lima  beans  i  cupful  cooked  cabbage 

i  cupful  raw  uncoated  rice  Salt  and  pepper 

Cook  the  rice  in  the  stock  and  tomato  till  tender.  Add 
the  remaining  ingredients,  season  and  serve  with  or  with- 
out Parmesan  cheese. 

Chestnut  Soup 

i  pint  Italian  or  American  2  tablespoonfuls  flour 

chestnuts  2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

I  pint  water  oleomargarine 

i  teaspoon ful  salt  i  tablespoonful  minced  pars- 

£  teaspoonful  sugar  caramel-  ley 

ized  Salt,  pepper  and  mace  to 

A  little  lemon  rind  taste 

i  quart  veal  stock 

Blanch  the  chestnuts,  peel  and  chop  them ;  then  add  to 
the  water  the  lemon  rind,  salt  and  sugar,  and  cook  until 
tender,  replenishing  the  water  as  needed.  Then  sift,  add 


I 

252  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

to  the  stock,  thicken  with  the  flour  and  butter  creamed 
together,  season  and  sprinkle  each  serving  with  a  little 
of  the  parsley. 

CREAM  SOUPS  WITH  STOCK 

Cream  of  Chicken  Soup 

4  cupfuls     chicken     stock —  2  tablespoonfuls    pearl    or    i 

well-seasoned  tablespoon  ful     quick-cook - 

2  cupfuls  milk  ing  tapioca 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  Salt  and  pepper 

1  egg  yolk — optional  Few  grains  mace 

2  tablespoonfuls   butter  or 
oleomargarine 

Soak  pearl  tapioca  over  night,  if  used.  Drain ;  put  the 
soup  stock  in  a  double  boiler  top  and  when  hot  add  the 
tapioca  (either  kind),  and  cook  till  clear.  Make  a  white 
sauce  of  the  fat,  flour  and  milk.  Combine  the  mixtures, 
season  and  pour  onto  the  beaten  egg  yolk.  Return  to  the 
heat  for  two  minutes  to  cook  the  egg,  but  do  not  let  it 
boil. 

Cream  of  Celery  Soup 

4  cupfuls    celery   leaves   and  i  slice  onion 

tips  Bit  of  bay  leaf 

i  cupful  diced  celery  3$  tablesroonfuls  flour 

4  cupfuls  white  stock  2.\  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

1  cupful    light    cream     (or  oleomargarine 
undiluted  evaporated  milk)  Sprig  parsley 

2  egg  yolks   (optional) 

Simmer  the  celery  leaves,  tips  and  seasonings  in  the 
white  stock  for  forty-five  minutes.  Cook  the  diced 
celery  till  tender  in  2  cupfuls  water.  Drain  the  celery, 
adding  the  liquor  to  the  stock.  Thicken  with  the  flour 
and  fat  rubbed  together,  add  the  cream,  strain,  season  to 
taste,  add  the  celery  and  re-heat.  Pour  onto  the  beaten 
egg  yolks,  if  used,  and  serve  at  once. 

Cream  of  Cress  Soup 

2  bunches  of  watercress,  or  3  tablespoonfuls    butter    or 
i  quart  chopped  cress  oleomargarine 

\  tablespoonful     minced  Few  grains  pepper 

onion  i  egg  yolk  (optional) 

3  tablespoonfuls  uncoated  Tips  of  cress 

.  rice  4  cupfuls   white   stock 


MAKING  SOUP  STOCK 


•fe 


LAMB    CHOPS;    RIB    CHOPS;    FRENCH   CHOPS;    LOIN  CHOPS; 
BREADED  LOIN  CHOPS 


SOUPS  253 

I  cupful  cream  or  rich  milk         %  teaspoonful  Worcestershire 

£  teaspoonful  salt  sauce 

Few  grains  nutmeg  Whipped  cream  (optional) 

Pick  off  the  tips  of  the  cress  for  garnishing.  Chop  the 
balance,  stems  and  all,  fine.  Fry  the  onion  in  the  fat  till 
softened.  Add  the  stock,  cress  and  rice  and  simmer 
closely  covered  until  the  rice  is  soft.  Rub  through  a 
sieve.  There  should  be  three  cupfuls  of  soup.  Mix 
together  the  egg,  if  used,  and  the  cream,  add  to  the  soup, 
season,  re-heat  and  bring  slowly  to  boiling  point,  stirring 
constantly.  Do  not  let  it  boil.  Serve  at  once. 

Thick  Cauliflower  Soup 

i  cauliflower  Drop  dumplings 

1  quart  veal  or  chicken  stock          I  pint  milk 

2  tablespoonfuls  minced  Salt  and  pepper 

onion  3  tablespoonfuls    butter    or 

i  stalk  celery,  or  oleomargarine 

\  teaspoonful  celery  seed  3  tablespoonfuls    flour 

i  teaspoonful  sugar  Bit  of  bay  leaf 

Stew  the  cauliflower  for  twenty-five  minutes,  then 
break  it  in  pieces,  chop  it,  or  rub  it  through  a  coarse  col- 
ander, reserving  a  pint  of  tiny  flowerets.  Melt  the  fat, 
add  the  onion  and  celery,  chopped,  and  the  bay  leaf  and 
cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes ;  then  remove  the  "  bay,"  add 
the  flour  and  stock  and  the  cauliflower  and  sugar;  then 
turn  in  the  milk,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
drop  in  the  dumplings.  Cook  for  ten  minutes  longer, 
then  serve.  This  is  substantial  enough  for  a  supper  dish. 

Soup  a  la  Crecy 

I  cupful  sifted,  cooked  car-  2  tablespoonfuls   butter  or 

rot  pulp  drippings 

3  cupfuls  white  soup  stock  i  slice  onion 
i  cupful  cream  or  milk  i  bay  leaf 

i  tablespoonful  flour  i  tablespoonful  catsup 

i  teaspoonful   salt,   or  more          &  teaspoonful  pepper 

as  desired  Stalk  celery 

Few  grains  mace 

Cut  the  carrots  in  dice,  cook  till  soft  and  put  through 
a  potato  ricer.  Cook  the  onion,  celery  and  bay  leaf  in 
the  stock  for  twenty  minutes.  Rub  together  the  flour 
and  butter,  add  to  the  stock  and  let  it  boil  up.  Add  the 
carrot  pulp  and  seasonings,  and  stir  in  the  cream  and 


254  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

strain.     An  egg  yolk,  slightly  beaten,  may  be  added  with 
the  cream,  if  desired. 

Onion  Soup 

i  cupful  carrot,  diced  ij  quarts  white  stock 

i  stalk  celery  i   cupful   rich   milk  or  light 
8  tablespoonfuls    butter    or  cream 

oleomargarine  i  egg  yolk  (optional) 

1  tablespoonful  flour  Parmesan  cheese 

2  branches  parsley  i  cupful  sliced  onion 
Toasted  croutons  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Cook  the  carrot,  celery,  parsley  and  onion  in  the  butter 
until  softened,  then  add  the  flour  and  stock  and  simmer 
for  twenty  minutes.  Heat  the  cream,  combined  with  the 
egg  yolk  (if  used),  add  to  the  soup  and  cook  for  two 
minutes,  stirring  vigorously.  Strain  and  serve  with  the 
croutons  buttered  lightly,  and  sprinkle  with  Parmesan 
cheese. 

Cream  of  Veal  Soup 

3  cupfuls   veal    stock    (well    '        i  egg  yolk  (optional) 
seasoned)  2  tablespoonfnls  flour 

ii  cupfuls  rich  milk  2  tablespoonfuls   butter   or 

2  tablespoonfuls    quick-cook-  drippings 

ing  tapioca  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Add  the  tapioca  to  the  veal  stock,  well  seasoned,  and 
cook  until  clear.  Make  a  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour  and 
milk,  add  to  the  soup,  season  to  taste,  then  pour  onto  the 
egg  yolk,  slightly  beaten,  if  used.  Return  to  the  heat  and 
stir  for  two  minutes,  but  do  not  let  it  boil. 

Cream  of  lettuce  Soup 

Outer  leaves  2  heads  lettuce  Few  grains  pepper 

i  tablespoonful  minced  onion  i  egg  yolk  (optional) 

3  tablespoonfuls  uncoated  3  cupfuls  white  stock 
rice  i  cupful  milk  or  cream 

3  tablespoonfuls   butter  or  \  teaspoonful  salt 

oleomargarine  Few  grains  nutmeg 

Saute  (fry)  the  onion  in  the  butter  till  soft;  add  the 
stock,  lettuce  (shredded)  and  rice,  and  simmer  until  the 
latter  is  soft.  As-  the  liquid  from  the  stock  will  evap- 
orate, add  water  to  make  it  three  cupfuls.  Add  the  milk 
or  cream,  and  rub  through  a  sieve  onto  the  beaten  egg 
yolk,  if  used.  Season,  return  to  kettle  and  re-heat,  but 
do  not  boil.  Serve  with  crisped  crackers. 


SOUPS  255 

Cream  of  Mushroom  Soup 

1  cupful    dried    mushrooms,  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
soaked  in  i  pint  cold  water  2  tablespoonfuls    flour 

2  tablespoonfuls    minced  creamed  with 
onion  i  tablespoonful  butter 

1  cupful  butter  i  cupful  cream  or  evaporated 
4  cup fuls     milk     or     white  milk 

stock  Few  grains  nutmeg 

2  egg  yolks  (optional) 

Soak  the  mushrooms  over  night  in  cold  water.  Drain, 
but  reserve  the  liquor.  Chop  the  mushrooms,  add  the 
onion  and  saute  (fry)  in  the  butter  till  softened.  Add 
the  mushroom  liquor,  and  simmer  until  soft.  Make  a 
sauce  of  the  milk  and  the  2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour^ 
creamed  with  the  butter.  Combine  with  the  mushroom 
liquor,  strain,  and  add  the  cream,  heated  and  combined 
with  the  egg  yolks,  if  used.  Season  and  serve  without 
boiling. 

Cucumber  Soup 

3  large  cucumbers  i  cupful  milk 

3  tablespoonfuls   butter   or  3  cupfuls     veal     or    chicken 

oleomargarine  stock 

\  teaspoonful  onion  juice  I  teaspoonful  salt 

3  tablespoonfuls  flour  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

•k  teaspoonful  mace  i  cupful  light  cream 

i  egg  yolk   (optional)  , 

Peel  and  slice  the  cucumbers,  fry  in  the  butter  for  ten 
minutes,  add  the  flour  and  cook  three  minutes ;  then, 
gradually,  add  the  stock  and  milk,  allowing  it  to  boil 
up  thoroughly.  Rub  through  a  sieve,  re-heat,  season, 
and  add  the  cream  scalded.  Beat  the  egg  yolk  -light, 
transfer  to  a  tureen,  and  pour  the  soup  into  it. 


CREAM  SOUPS  WITHOUT  STOCK 

Tomato  Bisque 

2  cupfuls  canned  tomatoes  i  slice  onion 

2  ter.spoonfuls   sugar  3  tablespoonfuls  flour 

1  teaspoonful   soda  i  teaspoonful  salt 

4  cupfuls  milk  &  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls   butter   or 
bacon  drippings 

Scald  the  milk  with  the  onion.     Cook  the  tomato  with 


256  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

the  sugar  fifteen  minutes.  Melt  the  fat,  add  the  flour, 
and  then  the  milk,  gradually,  boiling  it  up  once.  Add 
the  soda  to  the  tomatoes,  rub  through  a  sieve,  combine 
the  mixtures,  add  the  seasonings,  and  serve  without  re- 
heating. 

Cream  of  Spinach  Soup 

I  quart  uncooked  spinach  or  i  tablespoonful  flour 

i  cupful  cooked  spinach  2  cupfuls  milk 

Bit  of  bay  leaf  i  teaspoonful  salt 

i  cupful  water,  containing  Few  grains  nutmeg 

I  teaspoonful  salt  4  teaspoonful  pepper 

1  tablespoonful  butter 

Wash  the  spinach  and  cook  in  the  salted  water  with 
the  bay  leaf,  till  very  soft,  or  simply  add  the  cooked 
spinach  to  the  water.  Rub  through  a  sieve.  Make  a 
white  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour,  milk  and  seasonings ; 
combine  the  mixtures  and  serve  garnished  with  whipped 
cream  if  desired. 

Split  Pea  Soup 

li  cupfuls  split  peas  Few  celery  leaves 

2  quarts  cold  water  3  tablespoonfuls  bacon,  beef 
i  tablespoonful  sugar  or  ham  drippings 

I  pint  milk  3  tablespoonfuls  flour 

£  onion,  minced  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Soak  the  peas  over  night  in  water  to  cover ;  drain,  add 
to  the  cold  water  with  the  sugar,  onion  and  celery  leaves, 
and  cook  slowly  until  the  peas  are  perfectly  soft;  add 
the  milk,  thicken  with  the  fat  and  flour  mixed  together, 
and  rub  through  a  sieve.  Re-heat,  season  and  serve  with 
buttered  toast. 

Lentil  Soup 

i  cupful  dried  lentils  3  pints  water 

1  small  onion,  chopped  3  tablespoonfuls  flour 

A  few  dried  celery  leaves  if  3  tablespoonfuls  drippings  or 

convenient  bacon  fat 

2  teaspoonfuls  sugar  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
2  cupfuls  milk 

Soak  the  lentils  over  night  in  cold  water  to  cover. 
Wash,  drain  and  simmer  till  soft  in  the  water,  about  two 
hours,  adding  more  water  as  it  evaporates  to  keep  it 
always  that  amount.  Combine  the  onion  and  celery  and 
fry  in  the  drippings.  Add  to  the  lentils  and  cook  half 


SOUPS  257 

an  hour  longer.  Mix  the  sugar  and  flour  together,  stir 
in  cold  water  to  make  a  paste  and  add  to  the  lentils.  Let 
boil,  add  the  milk,  heated,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
rub  through  a  sieve  and  serve. 

Cream  of  Asparagus  Soup 

2  bunches  asparagus  or  i  can          I  cupful  hot  cream  or  evapo- 

asparagus  rated  milk 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  2  cupfuls  hot  milk 

5  tablespoonfuls  flour  I  teaspoonful  salt 

i  quart  boiling  water  Few  grains  nutmeg 

2  egg  yolks    (optional) 

Remove  the  tips  from  the  asparagus,  and  cook  the 
stalks  in  the  boiling  water  till  soft,  about  thirty  minutes. 
Make  a  white  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour  and  milk,  and.  add 
the  seasonings  to  it.  Combine  the  two  and  strain,  sifting 
through  the  asparagus  pulp.  Beat  the  egg  yolks,  if  used, 
and  add  to  them  the  hot  cream,  then  pour  into  the  soup 
mixture,  and  let  stand  till  hot,  stirring  constantly.  Use, 
the  tips  for  salad  or  serve  them  in  the  soup  as  a  sub- 
stantial dish. 

Cream  of  Celery  Soup  (Without  Stock) 

4  cupfuls  celery  leaves  and  i  slice  onion 

tips  Bit  of  bay  leaf 

I  pint  milk  3  tablespoonfuls  flour 

i  pint  water  25  tablespoonfuls    butter    or 

Sprig  parsley  oleomargarine 

Put  the  celery,  parsley,  bay  leaf  and  onion  on  to  cook 
in  the  water,  simmering  until  tender,  and  adding  water  as 
it  evaporates  to  keep  it  always  one  pint.  Drain  and  add 
the  milk.  Then  rub  the  butter  and  flour  together  and 
thicken  the  soup.  Let  boil  up  and  serve  with  croutons 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  grated  cheese  to  each  serving  if 
desirable. 

Rich  Cream  of  Celery  Soup 

Tips  and  coarse  stalks  from          i  pint  rich  milk 

a  head  of  celery  i  egg 

i  quart  cold  water  \  cupful  cooked  brown  rice 

i  slice  lemon  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Bit  of  bay  leaf 

Cook  the  celery,  onions  and  bay  leaf  in  the  water  for 
an  hour.  There  should  be  one  pint  of  celery  stock.  Add 


258  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

the  milk,  boil  up,  strain,  turn  in  the  rice  and  let  simmer 
five  minutes,  then  turn  onto  the  egg,  slightly-beaten,  and 
let  stand  two  minutes,  stirring  constantly.  A  half  cupful 
of  cooked  celery  cubes  may  be  added,  if  desired. 

Cream  of  Green  Pea  Soup 

1  can  peas  2  tablespoonfuls   butter  or 

2  teaspoonfuls  sugar  oleomargarine 

2  cupfuls  cold  water  2  tablespoonfuls  flour 

2  cupfuls  milk  I  teaspoonful  salt 

1  teaspoonful  onion  juice  &  teaspoonful  pepper 

Drain  the  peas  from  the  liquor,  add  the  sugar  and 
cold  water  and  simmer  twenty  minutes.  Rub  through  a 
sieve,  re-heat  and  thicken  with  the  flour  and  butter 
creamed  together.  In  the  meantime,  scald  the  milk,  sea- 
son, add  the  onion  juice  and  combine. 

Pumpkin  or  Squash  Cream  Soup 

4  cupfuls  milk  4  tablespoonfuls   flour 

2  cupfuls  boiling  water  4  tablespoonfuls    butter    or 
£  cupful  chopped  celery  oleomargarine 

1  teaspoonful   paprika  ii  teaspoonfuls  salt 

il  cupfuls  sifted  pumpkin  or          Whipped  cream  (if  desired) 
squash  pulp  Minced  parsley 

2  tablespoonfuls     minced 
onion 

Heat  the  milk  in  a  double  boiler,  add  the  pumpkin, 
water,  onion  and  celery  and  cook  twenty  minutes. 
Thicken  with  the  flour  and  butter  creamed  together  with 
the  seasonings,  and  stir  constantly  until  slightly  thick- 
ened. Cook  ten  minutes,  strain  and  serve.  A  garnish  of 
whipped  cream,  sprinkled  with  parsley,  may  be  used. 

Cream  of  Oyster-Plant  Soup 

1  bunch  oyster  plant  2"  cupfuls  scalded  milk 

i£  cupfuls  boiling  water  i   cupful   scalded  cream  or 

2  tablespoonfuls    butter    or  evaporated  milk 
bacon  drippings                              2  egg   yolks    (optional) 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour        *  I  teaspoonful  salt 

Few  grains  mace  4  teaspoonful  pepper 

Scrape  the  oyster  plant,  drop  at  once  into  water  con- 
taining a  little  salt  and  a  few  drops  of  vinegar.  Then 
drain,  plunge  into  the  boiling  water,  and  let  boil  till  ten- 
der. Rub  through  a  sieve  (there  should  be  2j  cupfuls) 


SOUPS  259 

and  then  combine  with  the  milk.  Thicken  with  the  flour 
and  butter  rubbed  together,  season,  and  pour  onto  the 
egg  yolk,  slightly  beaten,  if  it  is  used.  Add  the  cream, 
and  re-heat. 

Chives  Soup 

i  cupful  chopped  chives  2  tablespoonfuls    butter    or 
Outer  leaves  2  heads  lettuce  drippings 

(shredded)  $'  teaspoonful  salt 

3  cloves  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Bit  bay  leaf  Few  grains  nutmeg 

3  tablespoonfuls    uncoated  I  pint  milk 

rice 

Melt  the  butter,  add  the  chives  and  lettuce  and  cook 
till  coftened.  Add  the  cloves,  bay  leaf,  rice  and  water, 
and  boil  till  the  rice  is  very  soft.  There  should  then  be  a 
pint  of  liquid.  Add  the  milk,  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg, 
let  boil  up  once,  rub  through  a  sieve  and  serve. 

Cream  of  Potato  Soup 

3  large  potatoes  £  teaspoonful  pepper 

4  cupfuls  milk  2  tablespoonfuls   flour 

i  small  onion  2  tablespoonfuls  drippings  or 

ii  teaspoonfuls  salt  butter 

Boil  the  potatoes  till  soft,  and  then  drain  and  mash. 
Cook  the  onion  in  the  milk.  When  the  potatoes  are 
mashed,  add  the  scalded  milk,  and  the  salt  and  pepper. 
Rub  it  through  a  sieve.  Melt  the  drippings,  add  the 
flour  and  a  little  of  the  soup.  Add  this  to  the  soup  and 
let  boil  up  once. 

Cream  of  Bean  Soup 

i  cupful  pea  beans  i  pint  milk 

i  sprig  parsley  ii  teaspoonful  salt 

1  slice  onion  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Bit  bay  leaf  2  tabjespoonfuls     butter     or 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  bacon  or  ham  drippings 
2  quarts  water  '                                i  teaspoonful  soda 

Soak  the  beans  over  night,  parboil,  and  then  cook 
until  tender,  with  the  seasonings  in  the  2  quarts  of  water 
containing  the  soda.  Rub  through  a  sieve,  add  the  milk, 
let  boil  up  and  thicken  with  the  flour  and  fat  rubbed 
together. 


260  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Cream  of  Corn  Soup 

&  teaspoonful  soda  i  pint  boiling  water 

i  can  corn  I  slice  onion 

i  pint  milk  2  tablespoonfuls  drippings 

Blade  of  mace  or  butter 

3  tablespoonfuls  flour  ij  teaspoonfuls  salt 

Few  grains  pepper  J  teaspoonful  sugar 

Make  a  white  sauce  of  the  fat,  flour,  seasonings  and 
milk.  Chop  the  onion,  add  the  corn  and  water  and  sim- 
mer twenty  minutes.  Rub  through  a  sieve  and  combine 
with  the  white  sauce.  Serve  very  hot  with  toasted 
crackers  or  popped  corn. 


PUREES 

Black  Bean  Puree 

i£  cupfuls  black  beans  2  hard-cooked  eggs 

Small  piece  ham  (about  3  cloves 

a  half  pound)  i£  teaspoonfuls  salt 

4  tablespoonfuls    minced  ^  teaspoonful  pepper 

onion  i  teaspoonful  mustard 

2  stalks  celery,  or  a  i  teaspoonfnl  lemon  juice 

Few  dried  celery  leaves  3  tablespoonfuls  flour 
4  tablespoonfuls  bacon  or 

ham  fat 

Soak  the  beans  over  night  in  water  to  cover.  Drain, 
add  2  quarts  of  boiling  water  and  -J  teaspoonful  soda,  and 
boil  gently  till  tender,  about  four  hours,  adding  the  ham 
the  last  hour,  with  the  celery,  cloves  and  onion,  which 
should  be  fried  in  half  the  bacon  fat.  Mix  the  other 
seasonings  with  the  flour,  rub  with  the  remaining  fat  and 
thicken  the  soup  mixture.  Then  press  through  a  sieve, 
add  the  lemon  juice  and  the  hard-cooked  egg,  chopped 
fine,  and  serve  with  entire  wheat  or  rye  biscuits. 

•  Peanut  Puree 

i  quart  milk  2  tablespoonfuls   flour 

i  cupful  peanut  butter,  or  i  teaspoonful  celery  seed 

pounded   peanuts  i  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

I  bay  leaf  i  teaspoonful    paprika 

i  teaspoonful  salt  i  cupful  cold  milk  (extra) 

Cook  the  peanut  butter,  milk,  bay  leaf  and  seasonings 
in  a  double  boiler  top  until  boiling  hot,  and  the  peanuts 


SOUPS  261 

are  soft.  Mix  the  flour  and  cold  milk  together  thor- 
oughly. Add  to  the  soup ;  set  over  hot  water  and  cook 
fifteen  minutes.  Strain  and  serve. 

Lima  Bean  Puree 

li  cupfuls  lima  beans  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

1  quart  boiling  water  2  cupfuls  milk 

2  tablespoonfuls    minced  4  tablespoonfuls  butter   or 
onion  bacon  fat 

2  tablespoonfuls  minced  car-  &  cupful  flour 

rot  i  cupful  cream  or  rich  milk 

i  tablespoonful  minced  pirn-  ij  teaspoonfuls  salt 

ento  2  tablespoonfuls   tomato   cat- 
Bit  of  bay  leaf  sup 

Soak  the  beans  over  night,  then  drain,  rinse  and  put 
on  to  cook  with  J  teaspoonful  soda  in  the  water.  When 
half  done,  drain  again,  and  put  on  to  cook  in  i  quart  of 
water  with  the  onion,  carrot,  pimento  and  bay  leaf. 
When  the  beans  are  tender,  remove  one  cupful ;  rub  the 
balance  through  a  sieve,  make  a  sauce  of  the  milk,  bacon 
fat  and  the  flour ;  combine  the  mixtures,  season,  add  the 
cream  and  the  whole  beans  and  re-heat.  Serve  with  but- 
tered toast.  There  should  be  a  quart  of  the  puree  after 
the  beans  are  sifted  through.  If  the  amount  is  short, 
add  water  to  make  up  the  balance.  If  a  thinner  soup 
is  desired,  add  an  extra  pint  of  water ;  in  this  case  a  pint 
of  sliced,  blanched  potatoes  are  an  addition. 

Chestnut  Puree 

I  pint  Italian   or  American  i  slice  onion 

chestnuts    (blanched    and  3  tablespoonfuls   butter 

shelled)  4  tablespoonfuls  flour 

I  quart  soup  stock  Dash  nutmeg 

i  pint  rich  milk  Salt  and  pepper 

Sprig  parsley  i  or  2  eggs 

Boil  the  chestnuts  till  soft  enough  to  sift.  In  the 
meantime  scald  the  onion  and  parsley  in  the  milk.  Then 
remove ;  add  the  chestnuts  to  the  soup  stock  which  should 
preferably  be  chicken,  and  thicken  with  the  butter  and 
flour  rubbed  together.  Beat  the  eggs  light,  add  to  the 
milk,  combine  the  mixtures  and  let  them  come  barely  to 
boiling  point.  Season  and  serve  immediately. 


262  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

FISH  BOUILLONS  AND  SOUPS 

Cream  of  Oyster  Soup 

\  pint  oysters  i  pint  cold  water 

I  cupful  minced  celery  leaves  li  pints  milk 

1  slice  onion  i  teaspoonful  salt 
Bit  of  bay  leaf  t?  teaspoonful  pepper 
Few  grains  mace  2  tablespoonfuls  butter 
2j  tablespoonfuls  flour  i  cupful  cooked  celery 

Wash  the  oysters  thoroughly,  then  chop  fine;  add  the 
celery  leaves,  onion,  bay  leaf  and  cold  water  and  simmer 
gently  for  twenty  minutes.  Rub  through  a  sieve,  add 
the  milk,  scalded,  and  thickened  with  the  flour  and  butter 
rubbed  together,  and  let  stand  to  blend  for  a  few  minutes, 
but  do  not  boil.  Season  to  taste,  add  the  celery  and  serve 
at  once. 

Fish  Bisque 

2  cupfuls  cooked  \\jhite  fish,          £  teaspoonful  salt 

(any  kind),  minced  fine  i  teaspoonful  chopped  pars- 
I  tablespoonful    butter    or  ley 

bacon  drippings  i  quart  chicken  stock 

i  tablespoonful  Worcester-  i  tablespoonful  flour 

shire  sauce  \  cupful  cracker  or  fine  dry 
I  pint  hot  milk  bread  crumbs 

Make  a  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour,  milk  and  seasonings ; 
add  the  fish  and  crumbs ;  combine  with  the  stock,  boil  up 
once  and  serve. 

Oyster  Bouillon 

I  quart  oysters  A  bit  of  mace 

i  quart  water  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

A  few  celery  leaves  Whipped  cream 

Wash  the  oysters  and  chop  them  fine.  Add  the  liquor, 
strained,  and  the  other  ingredients.  Simmer  for  ten 
rninutes ;  then  strain  through  a  double  thickness  of 
cheesecloth,  and  serve  in  cups  garnished  with  a  spoonful 
of  whipped  cream  to  each  serving,  and  sprinkled  with 
shredded  pimento. 

•    Clam  Bouillon 

\  peck  clams  i  cupful  whipped  cream 

z\  cupfuls  cold  water 

Scrub  the  clams  thoroughly,  changing  the  water  several 


SOUPS  263 

times.     Place  in  a  kettle  with  the  water,  cover,  and  steam 
•until  the  shells  open.     Strain  through  double  cheesecloth, 
cool  and  clear,  if  desired.     Serve  very  hot,  with  or  with- 
out whipped  cream. 

Fish.  Broth  or  Court  Bouillon 

(For  cooking  trout  or  other  delicate  small  fish) 

i£  pounds  any  white  fish  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

2  quarts  cold  water  \  teaspoon  ful  celery  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls     minced  Bit  of  bay  leaf 

onion  I  sprig  parsley 

2  tablespoonfuls  minced  car-  3  cloves 

rot 

Cut  the  fish  in  small  pieces,  add  the  other  ingredients 
and  let  come  to  a  boil.  Skim,  and  simmer  an  hour  and  a 
half.  Strain,  season,  and  use  as  desired. 

Cream  of  Salmon  Soup 

4  can  salmon  (i  cupful)  \  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

1  quart  milk  2  teaspoonfuls  minced  pars- 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  ley 

1  teaspoonful  salt  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls    butter   or 
oleomargarine 

Scald  the  salmon  with  boiling  water.  Put  in  a  double 
boiler  with  the  milk  and  cook  until  the  latter  is  scalded. 
Rub  together  the  flour,  salt,  butter  and  pepper.  Stir  into 
the  milk  mixture,  and,  when  thickened,  serve  with  crou- 
tons. Sprinkle  each  plateful  with  a  little  parsley  before 
sending  to  the  table,  if  convenient. 

French  Oyster  Soup 

i  pint  oysters  2i  tablespoonfuls  flour 

i  pint  cold  water  2\    tablespoonfuls    butter    or 

Sliced  onion  oleomargarine 

Stalk  celery  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Dash  mace  2  egg  yolks 

3  cupfuls  milk 

Wash  the  oysters,  chop  fine,  add  the  onion,  celery  and 
water  and  simmer  twenty  minutes.  Scald  the  milk,  and 
thicken  with  the  butter  and  flour  rubbed  together.  Add 
the  oyster  stock,  straining  out  the  oysters,  then  season 
with  mace,  and  salt  and  pepper  as  needed,  and  pour  onto 
the  beaten  egg  yolks.  Re-heat,  but  do  not  boil. 


264  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Cream  of  Scallop  Soup 

i  pint  scallops  I  teaspoonful  salt 

i  pint  milk  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

3  tablespoonfuls  flour  i  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

3  tablespoonfuls    butter    or  i  cupful  light  cream  or 

drippings  evaporated  milk 

i  tablespoonful  minced  onion  i  pint  cold  water 

Chop  the  scallops  fine.  Melt  the  butter,  add  the  scal- 
lops and  onion  and  cook  till  yellowed,  then  add  the 
cold  water,  re-heat  and  simmer  for  twenty  minutes.  Mix 
the  flour  with  a  little  of  the  milk,  and  add  to  the  remain- 
der, which  should  be  scalded.  When  thick,  combine  the 
mixtures,  heat  the  cream  and  add  with  the  seasonings. 
Strain  and  serve.  Omit  the  cream  if  desired. 

Cream  of  Clam  Soup 

i  pint  clams  4  teaspoonful   mace 

i  pint  cold  water  4  tablespoonfuls  butter 

i  pint  milk  4  tablespoonfuls  flour 

i  teaspoonful  onion  juice  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

I  stalk  celery  I  egg  yolk   (optional) 

Wash  the  clams,  discard  the  hard  parts  and  chop  the 
soft  parts  fine.  Add  cold  water  to  them  and  simmer 
twenty  minutes.  Skim  if  necessary ;  scald  the  celery 
with  the  milk  and  make  a  white  sauce  of  the  butter, 
flour,  milk  and  seasonings.  Add  this  to  the  beaten  egg 
yolk,  if  used,  return  to  the  heat  to  "  set "  like  a  soft  cus- 
tard, add  to  the  clams,  and  serve  without  re-heating. 

Corn  and  Oyster  Soup 

1  can  corn  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls  minced  pirn-         8  large  oysters 
entoes  2  cupfuls  milk 

I  slice  onion  2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

2i  cupfuls  water  2  tablespoonfuls  flour 

£  teaspoonful  salt  Dash  mace 

Stew  the  corn,  onion  and  water  for  twenty  minutes. 
Make  a  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour  and  milk,  and  add  the 
seasonings,:  Add  the  corn  mixture,  rub  through  a  sieve, 
and  add  the  pimentoes  and  oysters.  The  latter  should 
be  washed  well,  cut  in  quarters,  and  steamed  till  their 
edges  curl. 


SOUPS  265 

Oyster  Stew 

i  quart  of  oysters  4  cupfuls  milk 

i  pint  boiling  water  2!  tablespoonfuls  butter 

I  teaspoonful  salt  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Wash  each  oyster  separately  and  put  in  a  sieve;  set 
this  over  a  pan  containing  the  boiling  water,  cover  and 
steam  until  the  edges  curl.  In  the  meantime  scald  the 
milk,  heat  the  tureen  and  put  the  butter  and  pepper  and 
salt  in  it ;  when  the  milk  is  scalded,  turn  it  into  the  tureen ; 
add  the  oysters  and  the  water  over  which  they  have  been 
steamed.  Serve  at  once. 

Celery  and  Oyster  Stew 

4  cupfuls   celery   leaves  and          f  cupful  cooked  spaghetti 

coarse  outer  stalks  2i  tablespoonfuls  butter 

I  quart  milk  I  pint  small  oysters 

i  pint  water  i  cupful  cooked  diced  celery 

i  slice  onion  Salt  and  pepper  to  -taste 

Few  grains  mace 

Cook  the  onions  and  celery  in  the  water,  adding 
enough,  as  it  evaporates,  to  keep  it  always  a  pint.  Drain 
when  tender,  and  add  the  milk  and  spaghetti.  Clean  the 
oysters  and  steam  over  the  receptacle,  in  which  the  diced 
celery  is  being  cooked,  to  conserve  all  the  juices.  (This 
amount  of  liquid  should  be  very  small.)  Add  the  butter 
gradually  to  the  milk  mixture,  season,  turn  in  the  celery 
and  oysters  and  serve  at  once. 

CHOWDERS 

Salmon  Chowder 

I  can  salmon  3  crackers,  split 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  3  potatoes 

drippings  2*  slices  onion 

i  teaspoonful  salt  4  teaspoonful  pepper 

3  cupfuls  milk  3  tablespoonfuls  flour 

Scald  the  salmon,  remove  the  bone,  and  flake  the  flesh 
fine.  Pare  the  potatoes  and  slice  thin.  Fry  the  onion  in 
the  fat,  add  the  flour,  and  cook  three  minutes.  Add  2 
cupfuls  of  boiling  water  and  the  potatoes,  and  cook  until 
tender,  about  fifteen  minutes.  Add  the  seasonings,  the 
salmon  and  the  milk.  Boil  up  once  and  serve  garnished 
with  split  crackers  dipped  in  hot  milk. 


266  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Corn  Chowder 

1  can  corn  i  onion,  sliced 

4  cupfuls  potatoes,  sliced  4  cupfuls  hot  milk 

2  slices  salt  pork  2  tablespoonfuls  bacon  or 
ii  teaspoonfuls  salt  ham  drippings 

i  teaspoonful  pepper  3  tablespoonfuls  flour 

Cut  the  pork  in  small  pieces  and  try  out  (or  use  2 
tablespoonfuls  butter  or  drippings  instead)  and  add  the 
onion,  cooking  until  it  is  soft.  Strain  the  fat  into  a  stew- 
pan.  Add  the  potatoes  with  2  cupfuls  of  boiling  water, 
and  cook  until  the  potatoes  are  soft;  combine  with  the 
corn  and  milk.  Rub  together  the  drippings,  flour  and 
seasonings  until  well-blended,  and  add  to  the  chowder. 
Heat  to  boiling  point,  taking  care  it  does  not  burn. 
Serve  garnished  with  moistened  split  crackers. 

White  Kidney  Bean  Chowder 

I  cupful  white  kidney  beans  ii  teaspoonfuls  salt 

i  teaspoonful  soda  i  teaspoonful    pepper 

i  can  corn  2  tablespoonfuls   butter  or 

1  cupful  tomato  juice  sausage  fat 

2  quarts   boiling   water  Cracker  or  dry  bread  crumbs 

Soak  the  beans^  over  night ;  drain  and  rinse  and  bring 
to  boiling  point  with  the  soda,  and  cold  water  to  cover. 
Drain  and  rinse  again,  then  add  to  the  boiling  water,  and 
simmer  slowly  until  the  beans  are  nearly  done.  Then 
season,  add  the  tomatoes  and  corn,  and,  when  the  beans 
are  tender,  stir  in  cracker  or  bread  crumbs  to  thicken. 
Add  more  water  if  the  evaporation  is  appreciable. 

Vegetable  Chowder 

i  cupful  chopped  carrot  2!  teaspoonfuls  salt 

1  cupful  chopped  onion  Few  grains  cayenne 

2  cupfuls  chopped  cabbage  i£   tablespoonfuls   sugar 

i  cupful  diced  celery  4  tablespoonfuls  bacon   fat 

1  pint  tomato   juice  or  drippings 

2  quarts  cold  water  I  tart  apple,  chopped 
I  cupful  chopped  turnip 

Scrub  and  prepare  the  vegetables,  leaving  on  the  peel- 
ings. Caramelize  the  sugar  a  dark  brown.  Add  to  it  the 
drippings,  and  the  carrot,  celery,  onion,  cabbage  and  tur- 
nip. Cook  till  slightly  browned,  shaking  occasionally. 
Then  add  the  water,  the  tomato  juice,  apple  and  season- 


SOUPS  267 

ings  and  simmer  one  hour,  well  covered.     Serve  with 
steamed  whole  wheat  dumplings  and  grated  cheese. 

Mexican  Chowder 

1  pint  boiled  Mexican  beans  i  cupful  diced  celery 

2  quarts  beef  stock  I  tablespoonful  minced  pars- 
i  pound  noodles  ley 

Salt  and  pepper  i  cupful  •  minced  onion 

Cook  the  noodles,  celery  and  onions  in  the  beef  stock. 
Add  the  beans,  let  become  very  hot,  season  to  taste,  and 
serve  with  corn  bread. 

Green  Corn  and  Lima  Bean  Chowder 

i  quart  green  corn  kernels  2  onions   (small) 

i  quart  shelled  lima  beans  2  quarts  boiling  water 

i  quart  sliced  potatoes  4  tablespoonfuls  flour 

i  quart  milk  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
i  pound  salt  pork 

Cut  the  salt  pork  in  small  pieces  and  try  out  the  fat. 
Add  the  onion,  sliced,  and  cook  gently  until  it  is  soft, 
then  turn  in  the  water  and  add  the  lima  beans.  Boil 
gently  for  about  forty  minutes.  Then  season,  add  the 
sliced  potatoes,  cook  ten  minutes,  and  turn  in  the  corn. 
Cook  ten  minutes  more.  Add  the  milk  and  water  to 
make  up  that  lost  in  evaporation.  Thicken  with  the  flour 
dissolved  in  a  little  milk,  let  boil  and  serve  with  hot 
crackers.  Dumplings  may  be  steamed  over  the  chowder 
if  desirable.  If  more  convenient,  the  milk  may  be 
omitted,  and  a  quart  of  stewed  and  strained  tomato  be 
used  in  place  of  it.  If  this  is  done,  a  teaspoonful  of 
sugar  should  be  added. 

Codfish  Chowder 

i$  pounds  codfish  4  slices  salt  pork 

i  pint  sliced  potatoes  i  pint  milk 

i  cupful  sliced  onion  i  quart  boiling  water 

4  tablespoonfuls  flour  Salt  and  pepper 

Try  out  the  salt  pork,  add  the  onions  and  cook  slowly 
until  they  are  yellowed.  Then  add  a  quart  of  boiling 
water,  and  the  fish  cut  in  small  pieces.  Cook  until  the 
latter  is  nearly  done,  then  turn  in  the  potatoes.  When 
they  are  tender,  add  the  milk  and  the  flour  dissolved  in  a 


268  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOKv 

little  cold  water.     Season  to  taste,  and  serve  garnished 
with  thick  water  crackers  moistened  in  milk. 

Salt  Codfish  Chowder 

i  pound  salt  codfish  2  cupfuls  tomato  juice 

1 2  cupfuls  sliced  potatoes  2  cupfuls  milk 

i  teaspoonful  powdered  2-i  cupfuls  water 

thyme  i  cupful  diced  onion 

Dash  pepper  i  stalk  celery,  diced 

Freshen  the  fish  and  cut  it  in  small  pieces.  Place  in  a 
kettle  with  the  potato,  onion,  seasonings  and  water,  and 
simmer  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Then  add  the  tomato, 
and  the  milk  (which  should  be  previously  heated). 
Serve  at  once  with  crisped  crackers.  Do  not  re-heat. 


CHAPTER  X 
FISH 

ALL   MEASUREMENTS  ARE  LEVEL 

There  are  a  few  staple  ways  of  cooking  fish  —  change 
being  made  by  the  different  seasonings  and  sauces  that 
are  served  with  them.  Breakfast  fish  should  always  be 
cooked  simply,  as  broiled  or  panned,  and  be  served  with 
a  garnish  of  bacon,  a  few  oysters,  cress  or  lemon.  For 
luncheon,  fish  is  usually  prepared  in  any  of  these  ways, 
and  is  embellished  with  some  sauce,  or  is  cooked  en 
casserole,  in  ramekins,  fried  or  boiled,  while  small  fish 
are  sometimes  baked.  Any  one  of  these  methods  is 
suitable  for  the  fish  course  at  a  dinner,  but  if  fish  is  to 
constitute  the  main  course,  a  large  one  should  be  chosen 
and  usually  baked,  served  en  casserole,  planked  or  boiled, 
while  the  sauce  should  be  simple.  Chowder  is  used  for 
the  home  luncheon,  supper  or  dinner. 

CLEANING  AND  DRESSING  FISH 

If  the  fish  must  be  scaled,  first  dip  it  in  boiling  water, 
and  then  begin  at  the  tail  and  scrape  with  a  blunt  knife. 
Clean,  and  draw  as  soon  as  the  fish  is  taken  from  the 
water.  After  removing  the  entrails  be  very  sure  that  no 
particles  remain  close  to  the  backbone.  Wash  the  fish 
quickly  all  over,  drain  it,  and  let  it  stand  upon  the  ice,  if 
possible  until  time  to  cook  it.  However,  as  the  fish 
odor  is  liable  to  permeate  the  ice-box,  wrap  the  fish  closely 
in  oiled  paper,  and  lay  it  on  the  ice.  If  fish  is  frozen,  it 
must  first  be  thawed  out  in  cold  water,  then  cooked  at 
once. 

Boning  fish  is  a  simple  process  that  need  not  take  long, 
if  one  works  rapidly  and  with  concentration.  At  the 
same  time  boned  fish  is  certainly  much  safer  to  eat,  and 
far  more  enjoyable,  than  fish  with  the  bones  left  in  it. 

269 


270  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

To  remove  the  bones,  begin  at  the  tail  end,  slip  the 
knife,  which  should  be  thin  and  sharp,  between  the  flesh 
and  the  bones  working  up  the  backbone.  Do  this  on  both 
sides.  If  the  fish  is  small,  like  flounder  or  sole,  each 
side  forms  one  fillet;  if  large,  like  shad  or  bluefish,  the 
fish  is  not  separated,  but  is  stuffed  or  broiled  or  cooked 
as  may  be  desired.  Fillets  of  halibut  are  made  from  hali- 
but steak,  which  are  cut  crosswise  of  the  fish,  and  which 
separate  naturally  into  four  sections.  Haddock  and  cod 
are  also  sliced  and  separated  in  the  same  manner. 

The  fat  of  red-blooded  fish  is  distributed  evenly 
throughout  the  flesh,  making  them  moist  and  rich ;  to  this 
end  they  are  best  not  fried,  but  should  be  cooked  by  some 
other  method  which  will  not  introduce  excess  fat. 
White-blooded  fish  are  dry  in  texture  because  the  fat  is 
collected  in  certain  portions,  so  they  should  be  cooked  by 
methods  which  introduce  fat,  as  baking  in  milk  or  brais- 
ing ;  if  frying  is  to  be  done,  these  fish  are  well  adapted  to 
it.  Olive  oil  is  the  best  frying  fat,  clean  beef  drippings 
being  the  next  choice.  Lard  is  very  unsatisfactory  unless 
deep  fat  frying  is  to  be  done. 

FRYING  FISH  IN  DEEP  FAT 

The  most  satisfactory  way  to  fry  small  fish,  or  fillets  of 
fish,  is  in  deep  fat.  To  prepare  the  small  fish,  clean  them, 
remove  the  fins  and  sever  the  backbone  to  keep  them  from 
curling  up.  Rub  with  flour,  dip  in  slightly-beaten  egg, 
diluted  with  a  fourth  cupful  of  water  to  each  egg,  and  roll 
in  fine  dry  bread  crumbs.  Place  in  a  frying  basket  so  that 
they  do  not  touch  and  fry  in  deep  fat,  hot  enough  to  brown 
a  bit  of  bread  in  a  minute  and  a  half.  Drain  at  once  on 
crumpled  paper.  Fillets  of  fish  should  be  floured,  egged 
and  crumbed  in  the  same  way.  If  it  is  desirable  to  intro- 
duce the  flavor  of  lemon  juice  or  onion,  or  a  spiced  flavor, 
the  fish  should  be  sprinkled  with  the  seasonings  and 
allowed  to  stand  half  an  hour  before  frying. 

SAUTEING  FISH 

Whole  fish  may  be  sauted,  or  fried,  in  a  spider,  but  this 
method  is  best  adapted  to  fish  steaks.  In  this  case  the 
fish  should  be  seasoned,  dipped  in  flour,  fine  cornmeal, 


BAKED  OYSTERS  ON  THE  HALF  SHELL 


TOMATOES  STUFFED  WITH  SHRIMPS 


FISH  271 

cracker  dust,  or  fine  dry  bread  crumbs,  and  fried  in 
just  enough  fat  barely  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  first 
on  one  side  then  on  the  other.  Bacon,  sausage  and  ham 
fat  are  well  adapted  to  this  purpose,  if  a  savory  flavor  is 
desired. 

BROILING  FISH 

Fish  that  are  not  too  thick  are  suitable  for  broiling.  To 
do  this,  rub  a  fish  broiler  with  olive  oil  or  butter.  Re- 
move the  head  of  the  fish,  split  down  the  back  so  that  it 
will  lay  flat,  and  brush  with  melted  butter  or  olive  oil. 
Place  in  the  broiler  and  near  the  heat  for  a  few  minutes  to 
sear  it  quickly,  then  cook  more  gently,  turning  occasionally 
from  side  to  side.  A  fish  weighing  a  pound  and  a  half 
requires  about  twenty  minutes.  If  too  high  a  heat  is 
used,  the  juices  will  be  drawn  off,  making  it  tough  and 
dry.  After  broiling,  fish  are  often  spread  with  a  little 
creamed  butter,  either  plain,  or  into  which  some  flavor 
has  been  beaten.  In  case  the  fish  is  very  thick,  like 
pickerel  or  mackerel,  it  may  be  put  flesh-side  up  in  the  gas 
broiling  oven,  a  dripping  pan  being  set  under  the  fish 
broiler  —  a  few  thin  slices  of  bacon  or  salt  pork  being  put 
over  the  fish  to  baste  it.  In  this  case  put  the  fish  some 
distance  from  the  flame.  Some  of  the  best  fish  suited  to 
broiling  are  mackerel,  bluefish,  large  trout  of  all  kinds, 
perch,  pompano,  whitefish,  fresh  herring  and  bass. 

BOILING  FISH 

Whereas  boiling  is  an  easy  way  of  cooking  fish  it  is 
liable  to  be  unsatisfactory,  because  so  much  of  the  flavor 
is  lost  in  the  cooking  water,  and  it  is  a  difficult  matter  to 
cook  the  fish  thoroughly  without  causing  the  slices  to 
break.  The  best  method  is  to  have  the  water  moderately 
warm,  put  in  the  fish,  bring  it  quickly  to  boiling  point  to 
sear  the  fish,  and  simmer  gently  until  the  flesh  separates 
easily  from  the  bones  —  five  minutes  to  the  pound  for  thin 
slices,  from  eight  to  ten  for  thicker.  The  fish  should  be 
tied  in  a  well-oiled  cheesecloth  to  preserve  the  shape,  or, 
in  case  of  a  long,  whole  fish,  it  may  be  coiled  up  in  a  fry- 
ing basket.  The  best  utensil,  however,  is  a  rack  which 
fits  into  the  fish  kettle,  for  the  fish  cooks  in  better  shape 
and  is  easier  to  remove  than  from  any  other  utensil.  The 


272  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

cooking  water  should  contain  a  half  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
juice  or  vinegar,  and  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  each 
quart  of  liquid.  Bay  leaves,  cloves,  peppercorns,  and  the 
like,  may  be  added  if  desired.  The  best  medium  for  boil- 
ing fish  is  in  fish  broth  or  court  bouillon,  as  the  flavor  is 
then  not  wasted,  the  liquid  finally  being  used  for  a  bisque 
or  clear  bouillon. 

After  boiling,  the  fish  should  be  well  drained,  and,  if 
the  sauce  is  not  to  surround  it,  may  be  dressed  for  service 
on  a  platter,  and  garnished  plentifully  with  cress,  parsley, 
radishes  or  lettuce  hearts,  with  slices  of  lemon  either  plain 
or  spread  on  one  half,  with  finely-chopped  peppers  or 
pimentoes,  and  the  other  half  with  minced  parsley. 
Potato  balls  tossed  in  melted  butter,  stuffed  peppers  or 
tomatoes,  or  sliced  cucumbers  are  often  served  on  the 
same  platter.  If  the  fish  is  white,  a  tomato  sauce  is  suit- 
able. If  a  fish  of  marked  flavor  is  used,  like  tuna  or 
salmon,  a  plain  bread  sauce  is  excellent.  A  blend  of  fish 
flavors  is  delicious,  so  a  sauce  of  some  other  fish  is  often 
used. 

In  case  the  boiled  fish  are  small,  like  brook  trout  or 
smelts,  any  of  the  flavored  butters,  Hollandaise,  or  drawn 
butter  sauce  may  be  used. 

The  fish  best  adapted  for  boiling  are  cod,  haddock,  hali- 
but, bass,  whitefish,  carp,  flounder,  salmon,  pike,  pickerel, 
perch  and  trout  of  all  kinds. 

STEAMING  FISH 

It  is  more  satisfactory  to  steam  fish  than  to  boil  them. 
This  is  easily  done  if  they  are  wrapped  securely  in  but- 
tered manila  paper,  or  a  paper  cooking  bag,  or  merely 
laid  on  a  well-oiled  plate.  Allow  ten  minutes  to  the 
pound  for  steaming. 

TO  BAKE  FISH 

Almost  all  varieties  may  be  baked,  although  the  method 
of  baking  depends  on  the  kind.  Fish  of  moderate  size 
should  be  roasted  whole,  the  dressing  being  rich,  rather 
moist  and  well  seasoned. 

For  roasting  or  baking  the  head  and  tail  may,  or  may 
not,  be  left  on,  but  the  fins  must  be  removed, —  and  the 


FISH  273 

eyes,  if  the  head  is  retained.  Stuff  rather  sparingly,  lest 
the  dressing  swell  and  break  open  the  fish,  and  gash  the 
skin  along  the  back  so  that  it  will  not  crack  in  cooking. 
Strips  of  salt  pork  or  bacon  are  laid  along  the  back,  and 
frequent  basting  with  hot  water,  to  which  a  little  butter, 
or  other  fat  has  been  added,  will  prevent  dryness.  Allow 
fifteen  minutes  to  the  pound. 

If  one  does  not  own  a  rack  that  fits  the  fish-pan,  strips 
of  cotton  cloth,  about  six  inches  wide,  laid  lengthwise  of 
the  pan,  with  the  fish  upon  it  will  aid  in  transporting  it  to 
the  platter.  Among  the  fish  that  may  be  baked  whole  are 
mackerel,  bluefish,  small  salmon,  trout,  pickerel,  bass, 
whitefish,  haddock  and  perch.  The  sauce  should  be  sim- 
ple, like  drawn  butter,  caper,  or  ordinary  egg  sauce. 

Fish,  like  halibut,  tuna,  large  salmon  and  cod,  are  cut 
in  steaks  or  fillets  for  baking.  They  may  be  placed  in  a 
pan  with  a  strip  of  bacon  or  salt  pork  on  each,  or,  in  lieu 
of  this,  a  teaspoonful  of  sausage,  ham  or  bacon  fat.  A 
few  drops  of  lemon  juice  should  be  sprinkled  over  and  a 
little  salt  and  pepper.  Set  in  a  hot  oven  two  or  three 
minutes,  then  add  a  little  hot  water,  and  bakeitill  tender  — 
about  twenty-five  minutes  —  basting  once  or  twice. 
Serve  sprinkled  with  minced  parsley  and  accompanied  by 
a  cold  slaw,  sauce  tartare,  or  any  of  the  sauces  designated 
for  boiled  fish. 

Halibut  with  Oysters 

Broil  halibut  steak  and  sprinkle  lightly  with  lemon 
juice.  Heat  oysters  in  butter  until  they  curl.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  pour  over  the  fish.  Garnish 
with  parsley  or  cress.  For  six  people  use  two  pounds  of 
halibut  and  a  pint  of  oysters. 

Fillets  of  Halibut 

6  halibut  fillets  \  cupful   soft  bread   crumbs 

2  chopped  pimentoes  cooked  in 

i  cupful  chopped  string  beans  J  cupful  milk  or  cream 

1  cupful  fish  stock  i  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

2  cupfuls  pounded  halibut  \  teaspoonful  salt 
Pimento  figures  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  eggs  separated 

Remove  the  skins  from  the  fillets ;  season  the  fillets 
well  with  salt  and  pepper  and  sprinkle  with  the  pimento 


274  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

and  beans.  Set  in  a  well-oiled  baking  dish  some  dis- 
tance apart.  Combine  the  remaining  ingredients  accord- 
ing to  the  order  in  which  they  are  given,  adding  the  egg 
whites,  well  beaten,  at  the  last.  Pile  this  mixture  high 
on  the  fillets,  set  the  pimento  figures  in  place,  surround 
them  with  the  stock,  and  bake  twenty  minutes  in  a  quick 
oven.  Remove  to  a  hot  serving  platter  and  strain  off 
the  liquor  in  the  pan.  There  should  be  ij  cupfuls. 
Thicken  this  with  2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  I  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  creamed  together,  add  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  lemon  juice,  and  pour  onto  2  slightly-beaten  egg 
yolks.  Return  to  heat  over  hot  water  and  stir  until 
thickened.  Sprinkle  the  fillets  with  the  minced  pimentoes 
and  parsley  and  serve  surrounded  with  the  sauce. 

Baked  Crumbed  Halibut,  Haddock  or  Codfish 

2  pounds  sliced  halibut,  had-  \  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

dock  or  codfish  Salt  and  pepper 

i  green  pepper  or  pimento  Buttered  crumbs 

1  onion 

Dust  the  fish  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper  and  sprinkle 
with  the  lemon  juice.  Lay  in  an  enamelware  dripping 
pan  or  on  a  baking-platter.  Bestrew  with  the  onion  and 
pepper  chopped  fine,  and  sprinkle  on  the  buttered  crumbs. 
Pour  in  a  little  water  or  milk  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  until  the  fish  is  tender  and  the  crumbs  are  brown  — 
about  thirty-five  minutes  for  slices  an  inch  thick. 

Baked  Fillets  of  Halibut,  Haddock  or  Codfish 

Wipe  dry  the  desired  number  of  halibut,  haddock,  or 
codfish  fillets.  Arrange  in  a  well-buttered  baking  pan 
or  platter.  Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  few 
drops  of  lemon  juice.  Brush  over  with  melted  butter 
and  barely  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  hot  water. 
Set  in  a  hot  oven  and  bake  till  tender,  about  thirty 
minutes.  Serve  with  parsley  or  egg  sauce. 

Casserole  of  Halibut 

2  pounds  halibut     "-  4  potatoes,  quartered 
6  small  onions  2"  teaspoonfuls  salt 

I  cupful  carrots  cut  in  little          \  teaspoonful  pepper 

strips  Boiling  water 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  I  cupful  tomato  juice 

i  cupful  crumbs 


FISH  275 

Remove  the  skin  and  bones  from  the  fish.  Brown  the 
onions  and  carrots  in  butter.  Put  a  layer  of  fish  in  the 
casserole,  then  some  carrots  and  onions  and  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  crumbs.  Add  more  fish,  vegetables  and 
crumbs,  repeating  till  all  are  used.  Barely  cover  with 
the  tomato  juice  and  boiling  water,  add  the  seasonings 
and  set  the  potatoes  on  top ;  cover,  and  bake  from  forty- 
five  minutes  to  an  hour. 

Baked  Fish  Chops 

2^  cupfuls  cold,  flaked  cod,  i  teaspoonful  salt 

halibut  or  haddock  Few  grains  pepper 

3  tablespoonfuls    butter    or  Few  grains  nutmeg 

oleomargarine  2  drops  tabasco  sauce 

6  tablespoonfuls  flour  i  teaspoonful    minced    pars- 

I  cupful  hot  milk  or  cream  ley 

\  teaspoonful  onion  juice  1  teaspoonful  Worcestershire 

i  tablespoon ful  lemon  juice  sauce 

i  cupful  fish  stock 

Boil  the  fish,  remove  the  bones  and  skin  and  flake  the 
flesh  fine.  Make  a  sauce  by  melting  the  butter,  adding 
the  flour  and,  gradually,  the  hot  milk;  when  boiling  add 
the  fish  stock  and  the  remaining  ingredients.  Combine 
with  the  fish,  cool,  and  shape  into  cutlets.  Roll  in  fine 
dry  crumbs,  mixed  with  \  cupful  melted  butter  or  other 
good  fat  to  ij  cupfuls  crumbs.  Place  in  an  oiled  drip- 
ping pan  and  bake  till  brown.  Serve  with  creamed 
peas,  tomato  or  egg  sauce,  around  a  mould  of  mashed 

potatoes  or  boiled  brown  rice. 

* 

Baked  Haddock,  Halibut  or  Codfish  Slices 

Dust  slices  of  the  desired  fish  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Lay  in  a  baking  pan  or  dish  and  sprinkle  with  a  little 
vinegar  and  a  few  drops  of  onion  juice;  and  put  a  slice 
of  bacon,  or  a  teaspoonful  of  bacon  or  sausage  fat,  or 
drippings,  on  each  slice.  Set  in  a  hot  oven  and,  when 
beginning  to  brown,  add  hot  water  to  cover  the  bottom 
of  the  pan.  Bake  till  tender,  about  twenty  minutes. 

Breaded  Codfish 

Two  pounds  fresh  codfish,  cut  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  thick  —  shaped  into  pieces  suitable  for  serving. 
Sprinkle  with  lemon  juice,  a  few  drops  of  onion  juice 


276  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

and  a  little  horseradish,  and  let  stand  thirty  minutes. 
Then  drain,  dip  in  fine  dry  crumbs,  in  slightly-beaten  egg 
diluted  with  milk,  and  then  in  crumbs  again,  and  fry 
about  five  minutes  in  deep  fat.  Drain  on  crumpled 
brown  paper,  and  serve  with  green  pepper  sauce. 

Baked  Tile  Fish  with  Dressing 
2  pounds  tile  fish  Tomato  bread  dressing 

Lay  the  fish  in  a  dripping  pan.  Dust  with  salt  and 
pepper,  cover  with  the  dressing  and  bake  forty-five 
minutes  in  a  moderate  oven,  basting  occasionally  with  a 
little  bacon  fat  dissolved  in  hot  water. 

Fried  Scallops 

Clean  the  desired  number  of  scallops  by  rinsing  thor- 
oughly in  cold  water.  Plunge  in  boiling  water,  well- 
salted,  and  simmer  until  they  begin  to  shrink.  Drain, 
dry,  roll  in  flour,  egg  diluted  with  J  cup  of  milk  to  each 
egg,  then  in  fine  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  in  fat  hot  enough 
to  brown  a  bit  of  bread  in  two  minutes.  Drain  on  brown 
paper  and  serve  with  tomato  or  tartare  sauce. 

Devilled  Scallops 

i  pint  scallops  4  tablespoonfuls  drippings  or 
I  tablespoonful  minced  onion  bacon  fat 

i  tablespoonful    lemon    juice  i  cupful  tomato  pulp 

\  teaspoonful  Worcestershire  i  teaspoonful  salt 

i  tablespoonful     Parmesan  i  teaspoonful  minced  pars- 
cheese  ley 
4  tablespoonfuls   flour 

Wash  and  drain  the  scallops.  Roll  in  flour  and  the 
melted  fat,  add  all  the  other  ingredients  and  turn  into  a 
well-oiled  baking  dish;  bake  for  twenty-five  minutes. 
Serve  with  boiled  brown  or  uncoated  rice. 

Scallops  an  Gratin 

i  quart  scallops  Salt  and  pepper 

I  pint    soft    crumbs    mixed  Cream  or  rich  milk,  about  I 

with  cupful 

i  cupful  melted  butter  \  cupful  dry  crumbs,  mixed 
4  tablespoonfuls    green    pep-  with  2  tablespoonfuls  melt- 

per,  minced  ed  butter 

Wash  the  scallops,  cover  with  water  and  bring  quickly 


FISH  277 

to  boiling  point.  Drain.  Butter  a  baking-dish,  put  a 
layer  of  crumbs  in  the  bottom,  add  a  layer  of  scallops, 
sprinkle  with  minced  peppers,  and  season  with  a  little 
salt  and  pepper,  repeating  until  the  dish  is  rilled.  Pour 
over  enough  cream  to  moisten,  sprinkle  on  the  dry 
crumbs,  and  bake  thirty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Escalloped  Fish 

3  cupfuls  flaked  fish,  cooked  i  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

2  cupfuls  milk  I  teaspoonful  celery  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  4  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls    flour  Salt  as  needed 

1  cupful  buttered  crumbs 

Select  any  white  fish,  as  haddock,  cod  or  halibut.  Boil 
and  flake  in  pieces,  taking  care  to  remove  all  skin  and 
bones.  Make  a  white  sauce  of  the  milk  and  butter,  flour 
and  seasonings  and  stir  the  fish  into  it.  Pour  into  a  well- 
oiled  baking  dish,  sprinkle  with  the  crumbs,  mixed  with 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  or  oleomargarine, 
and  set  in  a  quick  oven  to  brown. 

Creamed  Fish  on  Toast 

3  cupfuls  cooked  haddock  or  2  tablespoonfuls    butter    or 
cod  flaked  oleomargarine 

2  cupfuls  milk  2  tablespoonfuls  flour 

\  teaspoonful  salt  i  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

&  teaspoonful  pepper  Bit  of  bay  leaf 

Buttered  toast 

Scald  the  bay  leaf  in  the  milk  and  remove  it.  Make  a 
white  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour,  milk  and  seasonings. 
Add  the  fish,  let  stand  to  become  very  hot,  and  serve  on 
buttered  toast. 

Matelote  of  Haddock 

(From  the  French) 

2  pounds  haddock  i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

6  tablespoonfuls  butter  or              i  cupful    white   grape   juice, 

oleomargarine  or 

6  small  onions  i  cupful  very  weak  vinegar, 

4  tablespoonfuls  flour  slightly  sweetened 

i  spice  bag  il  cupfuls  rich  soup  stock 

I  teaspoonful  salt  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Slice  the  fish  and  remove  the  skin.     Slice  the  onions 


278  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

and  fry  them  in  the  butter  with  the  fish  till  browned. 
Then  add  the  flour,  the  seasonings,  the  liquid  and  the 
spice  bag  (i  clove,  bit  bay  leaf  and  a  few  celery  leaves 
tied  in  a  cloth).  Simmer  thirty  minutes,  add  more  sea- 
sonings, if  necessary,  and  serve  garnished  with  toast 
points. 

Oyster  Chops 

I  cupful  steamed  oysters  i  teaspoonful  parsley 

i  cupful  cooked  veal  I  teaspoonful  salt 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  Few  grains  cayenne 

oleomargarine  i  tablespponful  lemon  juice 

6  tablespoonfuls  flour  Few  grains  nutmeg 

Steam  the  oysters.  Chill,  cut  in  small  pieces  and  mix 
with  the  veal  cut  in  bits.  Make  a  sauce  of  the  butter, 
flour,  cream  and  seasonings.  Add  the  oyster  mixture, 
chill  and  form  into  chop  shapes.  Dip  in  egg,  diluted 
with  melted  butter,  then  in  well-buttered  crumbs  and 
bake  in  a  dripping  pan  until  brown. 

Oyster  Loaves 

12  French  rolls  Grating  lemon  rind 

1  pint  oysters  Few  grains  mace 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

1  cupful  thick  cream 

Cut  the  tops  from  the  rolls,  scoop  out  the  crumbs  and 
brush  thoroughly  both  inside  and  out  with  butter.  Set 
in  a  hot  oven  to  brown.  Fry  the  coarse  crumbs  in  the 
butter.  Remove  the  oyster  muscles,  then  place  the 
oysters  in  a  saucepan,  with  the  fried  crumbs  and  season- 
ings. Shake  over  the  heat  until  the  oysters  begin  to 
curl,  add  the  heated  cream  and  serve  very  hot  in  the  rolls, 
accompanied  by  fried  crumbs. 

Oyster  Filling  for  Patties 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  Yolks  2  eggs 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  Dash  of  cayenne 

I  cupful  milk  or  cream  Dash  of  mace 

Steam  the  oysters  and  cut  each  one  into  four  pieces. 
Make  a  white  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour  and  cream,  add 
the  seasonings  and  remove  from  the  fire.  When  a  little 
cooled,  add  the  beaten  yolks',  stirring  vigorously;  place 
again  over  the  heat,  and  stir  until  thickened,  then  add  the 
oysters.  Serve,  in  hot  pattie-shells,  or  bread  croustades. 


FISH  279 

Panned  Oysters 

Wash  the  desired  number  of  oysters  thoroughly. 
Place  in  a  frying  pan  with  a  generous  lump  of  butter. 
Dredge  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  gently 
over  a  moderate  heat  until  the  edges  curl  —  about  five 
minutes  —  and  serve  on  buttered  toast. 

Saute  Oysters,  with  Celery 

£  teaspoonful  salt  i  teaspoonful  horseradish 

1  pint  oysters  Crumbs 

2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice  I  cupful  white  sauce 
Few  drops  Worcestershire              \  cupful  minced  celery 

6  slices  toast 

Clean  the  oysters  and  marinate  (let  stand)  in  the 
lemon  juice,  Worcestershire  and  horseradish  half  an 
hour.  Drain,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  in  fine 
dry  crumbs  and  saute  (fry)  in  butter.  When  the  edges 
curl,  remove  to  slices  of  hot  buttered  toast,  pour  around 
the  white  sauce,  and  sprinkle  with  the  minced  celery. 

Tiny  Oyster  and  Mushroom  Pies 

i  pint  small  oysters  Few  grains  mace 

\  pound  fresh  mushrooms  Few  drops  onion  juice 

1  cupful  milk  \  teaspoonful  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  Few  grains  pepper 
2  tablespoonfuls  flour  Flaky  pie  crust 

Wash  the  oysters,  cut  the  mushrooms  in  small  pieces, 
fry  till  softened  in  the  butter,  and  add  the  flour  and  the 
milk.  Season.  Let  boil,  and  drop  in  the  oysters;  put 
the  mixture  in  six  small  ramekins.  Set  over  rounds  of 
the  pie  crust  and  bake  quickly. 

Oyster  Pasty 

i  quart  oysters  4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

i  pint  rich  milk  or  cream  oleomargarine 

i  cupful  cooked  diced  celery          4  tablespoonfuls  flour 
i  cupful  cooked  peas  i4  teaspoon  fuls  salt 

&  teaspoonful  mace  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Short  biscuit  paste 

Wash  the  oysters  carefully.  Make  a  sauce  by  melting 
the  fat,  adding  the  flour  and  seasonings  and,  gradually, 
the  milk.  Steam  the  oysters  over  a  half  cupful  of  water 
until  plump  —  add  this  liquor  to  the  sauce,  then  the 


280  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

oysters,  peas  and  celery.  Line  a  dish  with  the  paste,  cut 
one-quarter  inch  thick  —  pour  in  the  oyster  mixture, 
put  on  a  crust  of  the  biscuit  paste,  cut  a  hole  in  the  top, 
and  bake  about  twenty-five  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Fried  Oysters 

i  quart  oysters  Salt  and  pepper 

Dried  bread  crumbs  2  egg  whites 

Wash  the  oysters  and  drain  on  paper  toweling. 
Add  -J  cupful  cold  water  to  the  egg  whites  beaten  slightly 
together;  dust  the  oysters  with  salt  and  pepper,  roll  in 
crumbs,  egg  white,  and  crumbs  again  and  fry  forty  sec- 
onds in  fat  hot  enough  to  brown  a  bit  of  bread  in  that 
length  of  time.  Drain  on  crumpled  brown  paper  and 
serve  with  sauce  tartare  or  in  a  bread  croustade  with 
white  sauce. 

Escalloped  Oysters 

1  quart  oysters  -k  teaspoonful  paprika 

2  teaspoonfuls  minced  pars-          4  cupfuls  soft  bread  crumbs 
ley  I  cupful  butter 

i  cupful  minced  celery  2  cupfuls  cream  or  milk 

i  teaspoonful  salt  £  cupful  dry,  buttered  crumbs 

Wash  the  oysters.  Butter  a  baking  dish  and  put  in  a 
thin  layer  of  the  crumbs.  Add  a  layer  of  oysters,  sprin- 
kle with  a  little  seasoning,  parsley  and  celery,  dot  with 
bits  of  the  butter,  and  repeat  until  dish  is  full,  leaving 
the  last  layer  oysters.  Add  the  cream,  cover  with  the 
buttered  crumbs,  and  bake  thirty  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 
There  should  not  be  more  than  three  layers  of  oysters. 

Devilled  Oysters  with  Brown  Rice 

i  pint  oysters  Salt  and  paprika 

3  cupfuls  cooked  brown  rice  ^  cupful  butter 

1  cupful  grated  cheese  £  cupful  bread  crumbs  mixed 

2  minced  green  peppers  with  i  tablespoonful  melted 

butter 

Butter  a  baking  dish  and  put  in  a  layer  of  the  cooked 
rice ;  cover  with  oysters,  sprinkle  with  the  cheese,  salt, 
pepper  and  minced  peppers  and  add  half  the  butter  cut 
in  bits.  Repeat  and  cover  the  top  with  buttered  crumbs. 
Moisten  with  oyster  liquor,  if  necessary,  and  bake  thirty 
minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 


FISH  281 

Devilled  Oysters 

1  quart  oysters  %  teaspoonful  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  i  teaspoonful  paprika 

1  tablespoonful   made  mus-  i  teaspoonful  curry 
tard                                                  Buttered  crumbs 

2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 

Let  the  oysters  stand  thirty  minutes  in  the  seasonings. 
Then  dip  in  the  crumbs  and  bake  till  brown  in  a  very  hot 
oven.  Serve  garnished  with  bacon. 


Brown  Oysters 

I  pint  oysters  Few  grains  mace 

1  tablespoonful  minced  onion  6  tablespoonfuls  flour 

2  tablespoonfuls  minced  car-  i  cupful  cream  or  rich  milk 
rot  i  teaspoonful  salt 

I  sprig  parsley  Few  grains  cayenne 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  Buttered  toast 

Wash  the  oysters,  and  steam  over  a  cupful  of  hot 
water.  Fry  the  onion  and  carrot  till  yellow  in  the  butter, 
add  the  flour,  then,  gradually,  the  liquor  over  which  the 
oysters  were  steamed.  Strain  this  mixture.  Have  the 
parsley  minced  fine  and  add  it  with  the  seasonings  and 
oysters.  Let  it  become  very  hot,  turn  in  the  cream, 
scalded,  and  serve  on  buttered  toast,  or  pour  over  boiled 
brown  or  uncoated  rice. 


Savory  Clams 

i  pint  clams  6  slices  bacon  cut  in  dice 

1  cupful  cream  or  milk  i  teaspoonful  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls   butter  or  Few  grains  pepper 
bacon  drippings                               J  cupful  minced  celery 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  I  cupful  fine  crumbs 

Clean  the  clams  and  separate  the  hard  and  soft  paHs, 
chopping  each  rather  coarse.  Add  the  hard  parts  to  the 
butter  and  cook  for  three  minutes ;  add  the  flour,  season- 
ings and,  gradually,  the  milk  and  the  soft  parts  of  the 
clams.  Turn  into  well-oiled  ramekin  dishes  or  scallop 
shells,  sprinkle  with  minced  celery,  cover  lightly  with  the 
crumbs,  and  then  place  a  very  little  piece  of  bacon  on 
top  of  each.  Bake  twenty  minutes  (or  until  brown)  in  a 
hot  oven. 


282  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Clams  Saute  on  Toast 

i  quart  clams  Dash  pepper 

i  cupful  butter  I  teaspoonful  Worcestershire 

Salt,  if  needed  sauce 

4  tablespoonfuls  flour 

Remove  the  heads  from  the  clams.  Wash  the  clams 
and  cut  in  halves.  Roll  in  the  flour,  season  and  fry  in  the 
butter  about  seven  minutes.  Serve  on  toast. 

Clams  a  la  Creme 

I  pint  clams  Few  grains  pepper 

1  cupful  cream  or  milk  1  teaspoonful  Worcestershire 

2  tablespoonfuls   butter  sauce 

3  tablespoonfuls    flour  I  stalk  celery 
£  teaspoonful  onion  juice  Buttered  toast 
i  teaspoonful  salt 

Clean  the  clams,  remove  the  heads  and  separate  the 
hard  and  soft  parts,  chopping  each  rather  coarse.  Add 
the  hard  parts  to  the  butter,  cooking  them  three  minutes, 
then  turn  in  the  flour  and  seasonings.  In  the  meantime 
scald  the  celery  with  the  milk,  remove  it,  and  add  the 
milk  to  the  clams.  Then  add  the  soft  parts  and  let  stand 
ten  minutes  over  hot  water  to  cook.  Serve  on  buttered 
toast. 

To  Open  Lobsters 

Separate  the  tail  from  the  body,  and  twist  off  the  large 
and  small  claws.  Then  cut  the  thin  shell  on  the  inside 
of  the  tail,  and  remove  the  meat.  Split  this  lengthwise 
through  the  center  and  take  out  the  intestinal  vein,  which 
is  sometimes  red,  sometimes  white  or  even  black.  Then 
draw  out  the  body  of  the  lobster  from  the  main  part,  dis- 
carding the  lungs,  stomach  and  liver.  Save  the  coral, 
pull  off  the  wooly  gills,  then  pick  out  the  meat  that  lies 
between  the  body  bones. 

If  the  lobster  is  small,  cut  the  claws  with  the  scissors 
and  remove  the  meat ;  if  large  and  tough  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  break  them.  The  small  claws  and  tips  of  the 
large  claws  may  be  reserved  for  garnishing. 

To  Boil  Lobsters 

Have  the  water  boiling  rapidly,  and  allow  a  handful 
of  salt  to  a  gallon  of  water.  Enough  water  should  be 
allowed  to  cover  the  lobster.  Drop  in  the  lobster  and 


FISH  283 

let  boil  hard  for  a  few  minutes,  then  more  gently,  allow- 
ing twenty  minutes  in  all  for  a  medium-sized  lobster. 

Broiled  Live  Lobster 

If  possible,  order  the  lobster  dressed  at  the  fish  mar- 
ket; pull  off  the  small  claws  and  put  the  lobster  in  a 
broiler,  well-oiled  with  olive  oil.  Broil  from  eight  to 
ten  minutes  on  the  flesh  side,  then  turn  and  broil  half  the 
time  on  the  shell  side.  Break  open  the  large  claws  and 
pour  over  melted  butter  before  serving. 

If  necessary  to  dress  the  lobster  at  home,  use  a  heavy, 
pointed  knife  and  make  a  sharp,  deep  cut  throughout  the 
whole  length  of  the  lobster,  beginning  at  the  mouth. 
Spread  open  and  remove  the  stomach  and  the  intestinal 
vein. 

Baked  Live  Lobster 

Put  the  lobster  fat  and  the  meat  from  the  body  in  a 
bowl,  mix  this  with  an  equal  quantity  of  soft  bread 
crumbs,  a  tablespoonful  of  minced  green  peppers,  a  half 
teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper. 
Replace  in  the  body  shell,  lay  the  lobster  in  a  pan  and 
put  four  narrow  strips  of  thinly-sliced  bacon  over  the 
lobster.  Bake  thirty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Buttered  Lobster 

Meat  from  a  two-pound  lob-  4  tablespoonfuls  hot  butter 

ster  i  tablespoonful  minced  pars- 

i  teaspoonful  Worcestershire  ley 

sauce  i  teaspoonful  paprika 

I  teaspoonfnl  mustard  i  teaspoonful  vinegar 

i  teaspoonful  salt 

Put  the  seasonings  together  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  but- 
ter and  lobster  and  saute  (fry)  till  very  hot.  Serve*  on 
buttered  toast,  or  in  browned  pointed  rolls. 

Lobster  Savory 

i  cupful  lobster  meat  i  tablespoonful  ham 

1  cupful  chopped  mushrooms  (chopped) 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  I  tablespoonful  carrot 

3  tablespoonfuls  flour  (chopped) 

I  teaspoonful  salt  2  tablespoonfuls  celery 

Few  grains  pepper  (chopped) 

i  teaspoonful  parsley  '$  teaspoonful  minced  onion 

ii  cupfuls  brown  soup  stock          2  cloves 


284  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Melt  the  butter,  add  the  vegetables  and  flour,  and  cook 
until  browned,  then  add  the  stock  slowly.  Boil  till  the 
vegetables  are  tender,  strain  and1  add  the  lobster  meat. 
Serve  in  timbale  cases,  or  in  bread  croustades. 

Lobster  Farci 

z\  cupfuls  boiled  lobster  Yolks  2  hard-cooked  eggs 

ii  cupfuls  cream  or  milk  I  teaspoonful  salt 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter  i  tablespoonful  chopped  oars- 
3  tablespoonfuls  flour  ley 

\  teaspoonful    nutmeg  Whites  2  hard-cooked  eggs 

Few  grains  cayenne  -k  teaspoonful  Worcestershire 
6  tablespoonfuls  bread  sauce 

crumbs 

Make  a  white  sauce  of  the  butter,  the  milk,  flour  and 
the  seasonings.  Remove  from  the  heat  and  add  the 
parsley,  minced,  and  the  egg  yolks,  mashed.  Stir  in  the 
lobster  meat,  and  the  egg  whites  cut  in  small  cubes. 

Have  the  lobster  shells  washed  and  dried.  Cut  off  the 
sides  of  the  body  shells  one-half  inch.  Fit  the  body  and 
tail-pieces  together,  put  in  the  mixture^  cover  with  but- 
tered crumbs,  and  bake  till  brown. 

Lobster  Cutlets 

2  cupfuls  chopped  lobster  i  teaspoonful  lemor   juice 

meat  i  egg  yolk  , 

\  teaspoonful    salt  i  teaspoonful  finely-chopped 
Few  grains  cayenne  parsley 

Few  gratings  nutmeg  i  cupful  thick  white  sauce 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given.  Shape  in  the 
form  of  cutlets,  crumb  and  fry  as  croquettes.  (See 
chapter  on  frying.)  Make  a  cut  at  the  small  end  of  each 
cutlet  and  insert  in  each  the  tip  of  a  small  claw.  Serve 
around  a  mound  of  parsley,  with  sauce  tartare. 

Lobster,  Chafing-Dish  Style 

2*  cupfuls  boiled  lobster  meat  .  3  hard-cooked  egg  yolks 

ii  cupfuls  cream  or  milk  i  teaspoonful  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  i  tablespoonful    chopped 

ii  tablespoonfnls  flour  parsley 

Few  grains  cayenne  Dash  celery  salt 

Few  grains  nutmeg 

Make  a  white  sauce  as  follows  —  mash  the  egg  yolk 
and  mix  with  the  flour.  Melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour 


FISH  285 

mixture  and  seasonings,  and  add  the  cream  gradually. 
Add  the  parsley  and  lobster  meat  cut  in  dice.  Let  boil 
and  serve  very  hot  on  buttered  toast. 

Stewed  Eel 

i  eel  (about  one  pound)  I  cupful  sifted  canned  toma- 

i  onion,  sliced  toes 

1  tablespoonful  minced  pars-          I  cupful  peas 

ley  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

4  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 

Fry  the  onion  in  the  oil,  and  when  of  a  golden  color 
add  the  parsley.  Wash  and  dry  the  eel  and  cut  it  in 
pieces,  about  two  inches  long.  Add  the  eel  to  the  onion 
together  with  the  tomatoes  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper 
and  the  peas,  if  they  are  fresh.  Otherwise  put  them  in 
just  before  serving.  Cook  slowly  until  the  eel  is  tender. 

Baked  Stuffed  Smelts 

12  large  smelts  4  tablespoonfuls  soft  bread 

2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice  crumbs 

£  teaspoonful  minced  onion  \  teaspoonful  minced  parsley 

2  tablespoonfuls  chopped  4  tablespoonfuls  butter 

mushrooms  Hot  milk  or  cream  to  moisten 

Remove  the  heads,  tails  and  fins  and  clean  the  fish. 
Wash  thoroughly,  dredge  with  sak  and  pepper,  and  stuff 
with  a  dressing  made  of  the  onion,  mushrooms,  crumbs, 
parsley,  etc.  Set  on  a  well-oiled  baking  platter,  sprinkle 
with  lemon  juice  and  cover.  Bake  eight  minutes  in  a 
quick  oven.  Uncover,  place  buttered  crumbs  on  top,  and 
bake  until  the  crumbs  are  browned.  Serve  with  Hol- 
landaise,  mousseline  or  sauce  tartare. 

Baked  Mackerel  in  Milk 

Dress  and  split  a  mackerel.  Lay  it  on  a  baking  plat- 
ter and  dredge  it  with  flour,  salt  and  pepper ;  dot  with  bits 
of  butter  and  add  hot  milk  nearly  to  cover.  Bake  until 
tender  —  about  twenty-five  minutes. 

Baked  Stuffed  Bluefish 

Clean  the  bluefish  and  dredge  inside  and  out  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Prepare  a  well-seasoned  bread  or  cracker 
stuffing,  and  lay  the  fish  in  a  well-oiled  pan,  preferably  on 
a  fish  rack.  Dot  with  bits  of  butter,  sprinkle  lightly  with 


286  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

flour  and  bake  nearly  an  hour  in  a  hot  oven,  for  a  fish  of 
medium  size.  Pour  in  a  cupful  of  hot  water  containing 
a  little  butter  or  drippings.  Baste  frequently  with  this. 
Serve  with  Hollandaise  sauce  or  lemon  butter. 

Fish  Stuffing 

2  cup fuls  soft  bread  crumbs          $  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

i  cupful  melted  butter,  oleo-  i  teaspoonful  minced  parsley 

margarine  or  savory  drip-  |  cupful  chopped  celery  (if 
pings  convenient) 

I  teaspoonful  salt  Hot  water  to  moisten 

1  teaspoonful  pepper 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given.  A  half  cup- 
ful or  more  of  stewed  tomato  may  be  used  instead  of  the 
water  if  desired. 

Fried  Fillets  of  Flounder  or  Sole 

Clean  the  fish  and  cut  lengthwise  into  fillets.  Dust 
with  salt  and  pepper,  roll  and  fasten  with  wooden  tooth- 
picks. Dip  in  fine  dry  crumbs,  in  egg  and  crumbs  again, 
and  fry.  in  fat  hot  enough  to  brown  a  piece  of  bread  in 
two  and  one-half  minutes,  and  drain.  Serve  with 
tomato,  Hollandaise,  shrimp  sauce,  or  sauce  tartare. 

•Baked  Sole 

Clean  the  fish  and  split  lengthwise.  Marinate  (let 
stand)  for  twenty  minutes  in  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon 
juice,  a  teaspoonful  of  Worcestershire  and  a  half  tea- 
spoonful  of  onion  juice  for  each  two  pounds  of  fish,  and 
then  dust  thickly  with  buttered  crumbs.  Set  in  a  baking 
pan ;  dot  with  more  butter,  pour  a  little  water  in  the 
pan  and  bake  gently  for  twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate 
oven.  Serve  with  parsley  sauce  and  potato  balls. 

Fillet  of  Sole,  Greek  Style 

3  cupfuls  creamed  spinach  I  cupful  cheese,  sliced  thin 

2  pounds  sole,  split  and  4  tablespoon  fuls  butter 
cleaned  Salt  and  pepper 

i  cupful  milk 

Make  a  thin  layer  of  the  spinach  in  the  bottom  of  a 
shallow,  well-oiled  baking  dish  or  low  casserole.  Place 
the  sole  on  this,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  pour 
the  milk  around  it.  Then  cover  with  the  cheese,  dot 


FISH  287 

with  butter,  dredge  sparingly  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
set  in  a  hot  oven  for  twenty-five  minutes.  The  cheese 
will  melt,  forming  a  most  delicious  sauce. 

Planked  Shad  a  la  Easter 

Heat  a  plank  of  the  desired  size  and  rub  thoroughly 
with  olive  oil,  then  lay  the  fish,  cleaned  and  split  down 
the  back,  on  it.  Brush  over  with  oil  and  dredge  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Bake  about  twenty-five  minutes  in  a 
hot  oven,  basting  frequently  with  melted  butter.  This 
can  be  done  under  the  gas  flame  if  desired,  taking  care 
not  to  burn  the  plank. 

Decorate  with  hot,  moulded  brown  or  uncoated  rice, 
bundles  of  cooked  asparagus,  slipped  through  rings  of 
green  pepper,  turnip  cups  of  cooked  turnips,  hollowed 
out  and  filled  with  peas,  radish  roses  and  slices  of  lemon 
decorated  with  halved,  stuffed  olives. 

Planked  Mackerel 

Split  the  fish  down  the  back  and  remove  the  bones. 
Heat  a  plank  of  the  desired  size  in  the  oven,  rub  thor- 
oughly with  olive  oil  and  then  lay  the  fish  on  it,  flesh- 
side  up.  Dredge  the  fish  with  salt  and  pepper,  sprinkle 
with  a  little  lemon  juice,  and  bake  till  tender,  about 
twenty-five  minutes  in  a  hot  oven,  basting  frequently 
with  melted  butter.  Have  prepared  a  generous  quantity 
of  Duchess  potatoes  (about  I  quart)  and  pipe  through  a 
pastry  bag  and  tube  around  the  fish.  Brush  over  with 
slightly-beaten  egg  yolk  and  return  to  the  oven  to  brown. 
Decorate  further  with  stuffed  green  peppers,  or  tomatoes, 
with  radish  roses,  and  with  broiled  bacon  strips  alternating 
with  lemon  slices  on  the  fish. 

Almost  any  fine-grained  fish  may  be  planked. 

Trout  Baked  in  Milk 

Dress  the  fish  as  usual,  removing  the  head,  fins  and 
tail.  Place  on  a  buttered  baking  platter,  dredge  with 
flour,  allowing  one  tablespoon ful  to  each  fish,  and 
sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper.  Dot  with  bits  of  butter 
and  smother  the  fish  with  unheated  thin  cream.  Place  in 
the  oven  and  bake  until  tender  — about  twenty  minutes. 
The  fish  will  absorb  much  of  the  cream.  The  remainder 


288  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

will  be  thickened  by  the  flour  and  can  be  served  with  the 
fish  as  a  sauce. 

Trout  a  la  Game  Club 

Prepare  the  trout  as  usual,  but  do  not  remove  the 
heads  or  tails.  Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  wrap  in 
cheesecloth  and  plunge  into  boiling  fish  broth  and  sim- 
mer until  tender,  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  minutes,  ac- 
cording to  the  size  of  the  fish.  Serve  whole  on  heated 
plates  with  lemon  butter  and  a  garnish  of  watercress. 
By  this  process  the  beautiful  fish  markings  are  preserved. 

To  Boil  Crabs 

Plunge  the  crabs  into  boiling  water  containing  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  a  little  vinegar  to  each  two  quarts. 
Boil  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  they  turn  red. 

To  Dress  Crabs 

Cool  the  boiled  crabs  and  remove  the  spongy  substance 
and  the  small  piece  at  the  lower  part  of  the  shell,  which 
is  called  "  the  apron."  Then  pick  the  meat  from  the 
bones  and  use  as  desired. 

Devilled  Crabs 

To  each  cupful  of  crab  meat  allow  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  melted  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  soft  bread  crumbs, 
one  or  two  egg  yolks,  a  teaspoonful  of  minced  parsley, 
a  half  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste.  If  it  seems  dry,  moisten  with  a  little  milk  or 
white  stock.  In  the  meantime  wash  the  shells,  trim  into 
shape  and  heap  with  the  mixture.  Sprinkle  with  dry 
bread  crumbs,  mixed  with  a  little  melted  butter,  and 
brown  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Crab  Meat  Cakes 

3  cupfuls  crab  meat  \  teaspoonful  salt 

i  small  egg  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

\  tablespoonful  flour  Paprika  to  taste 

Mix  the  ingredients  together  in  the  order  given,  form 
into  flat  cakes,  roll  in  flour  and  fry  gently  on  a  well- 
oiled  griddle.  Serve  with  a  rich  white  sauce. 


FISH  289 

Crab  Meat  Timbales 

2  cupfuls    flaked   crab   meat,          4  tablespoonfuls  melted  but- 
freed  from  shell  ter 

3  eggs  I  teaspoonful  salt 

1  cupful  soft  bread  crumbs  I  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  teaspoonfuls  lemon  juice  I  teaspoonful  minced  parsley 

Beat  the  egg  yolks  well,  and  add  to  the  crab  meat  with 
all  the  other  ingredients  as  mentioned.  Mix  thoroughly, 
then  fold  in  the  egg  whites,  beaten  stiff.  Bake  in  well- 
oiled  timbales  or  custard  cups,  set  in  hot  water,  for  thirty 
minutes  —  unmould  and  serve  with  white  sauce  contain- 
ing chopped  olives. 

Fried  Soft  Shell  Crabs 

Pull  back  the  skin  (which  will  later  harden  into  shell) 
and  remove  the  soft  spongy  substances ;  then  replace  the 
skin,  dip  the  crab,  legs  and  all,  into  flour,  dust  with  a 
little  salt  and  pepper,  then  roll  in  egg  and  fine  bread 
crumbs,  as  for  croquettes,  and  fry  golden  brown  in  fat 
hot  enough  to  brown  a  bit  of  bread  in  two  minutes. 

White  Fish  Loaf 

2  pounds  halibut,  cod  or  had-  Grating  lemon  rind 

dock  i-i  teaspoonfuls  salt 

2  or  3  eggs  separated  i  teaspoonful  butter  or  oleo- 
li  cupfuls  soft  bread  crumbs  margarine  melted 

li  cupfuls  milk  1  teaspoonful  pepper 

Boil  the  fish  with  a  bit  of  bay  leaf  till  tender.  When 
cool,  remove  the  skin  and  bones  and  flake  with  a  fork 
into  bits.  Cook  the  bread  crumbs  and  milk  together  to  a 
paste.  Add  to  the  fish  with  the  remaining  ingredients, 
the  eggs  being  separated;  add  the  yolks  without  beating, 
and  fold  in  the  egg  whites,  beaten  stiff.  Pack  into  a 
well-buttered  brick-shaped  tin  with  the  bottom  lined  with 
paper.  Stand  in  a  pan  of  water  and  bake  forty-five  to 
fifty  minutes.  Let  stand  a  while  before  unmoulding. 
Serve  hot  with  egg,  bread,  or  Spanish  sauce. 

Tuna  Fish  a  la  King 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  I  teaspoonful  salt 

3  tablespoonfuls  flour  2  cupfuls  rich  milk 

2  tablespoonfuls  green  pep-  ii  cupfuls  diced  mushrooms 

per  (minced)  Toast 

2i  cupfuls    tuna    fish,    flaked  Few  grains  paprika 

coarse 


290  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Melt  the  butter  and  cook  the  peppers  and  mushrooms 
in  it  till  soft.  Then  stir  in  the  flour  and  salt  and  cook 
till  frothy.  Add  the  milk  gradually,  stirring  constantly, 
and  when  boiling  point  has  been  reached  add  the  fish. 
Let  become  very  hot  and  serve  on  buttered  toast. 

Flaked  Fish  Cakes 

2!  cupfuls  hot  boiled  uncoat-  i  tablespoonful  melted  butter 

ed  rice  i  cupful  fish  flakes 

1  teaspoonful  minced  parsley  i  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

2  teaspoonfuls  salt  Few  grains  pepper 

8  slices  bacon  Hot  milk  or  cream  to  moisten 

Mix  together  the  rice,  fish,  seasonings  and  butter; 
moisten  as  needed  with  milk,  form  into  flat  cakes  and  dip 
in  flour.  Try  out  the  fat  from  the  bacon  in  the  oven, 
cooking  until  the  bacon  is  crisp  and  brown.  Fry  the 
cakes  in  the  hot  fat,  and  serve  a  slice  of  bacon  on  every 
patty.  Tomato  or  cream  sauce  may  be  used  with  these 
if  desired. 

Fish-Balls 

1  cupful  salt  codfish  i  egg 

2i  cupfuls  mashed  potato  2  teaspoonfuls  parsley 

2  tablespoonfuls  cream  i  tablespoonful  butter 
4  teaspoonful  pepper 

Pick  the  codfish  into  bits  and  let  simmer  thirty  min- 
utes. Prepare  the  potato  as  usual,  add  the  fish,  egg, 
parsley,  butter  and  pepper  and  the  cream,  if  more  mois- 
ture is  needed.  Shape  into  flat  cakes,  egg  and  crumb,  as 
usual,  and  fry  in  deep  fat.  Serve  garnished  with  broiled 
bacon. 

Salmon  Klopps 

2  cupfuls  cooked,  or  canned,  \  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

salmon,  minced  i  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

\  teaspoonful  celery  salt  2  eggs 
i  teaspoonful  parsley 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given,  adding  the  eggs 
unbeaten.  Form  into  balls  the  size  of  a  walnut,  and 
poach  in  water  just  at  simmering  point.  When  firm,  re- 
move to  toast  and  serve  with  a  cream  sauce. 


FISH  291 

Salmon  Loaf 

I  can  salmon  i  cupful  melted  butter  or 

3  eggs  oleomargarine 

1  cupful  soft  bread  crumbs  \  teaspoonful  salt 

2  teaspoonfuls  lemon  juice  &  teaspoonful  pepper 

I  teaspoonful  minced  parsley 

Scald  the  salmon.  Remove  the  skin  and  bones,  and  to 
the  fish  add  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  all  in- 
gredients in  the  order  given.  Mix  well  and  fold  in  the 
egg  whites,  beaten  stiff.  Bake  in  a  buttered  pan  well- 
covered,  and  set  in  pan  of  hot  water  for  thirty-five  min- 
utes, or  steam  for  an  hour.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold, 
with  creamed  peas  or  sauce  'tartare. 

Creamed  Salmon  on  Toast 

1  can  salmon  2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

2  cupfuls  milk  bacon  fat 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  \  teaspoonful  salt 

1  teaspoonful  onion  juice  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Buttered  toast 

Scald  the  salmon.  Remove  the  skin  and  bones  and 
flake  the  fish  fine  with  a  fork.  Melt  the  fat,  and  stir  in 
the  flour  and  milk,  gradually.  Let  boil,  stirring  con- 
stantly, add  th£  salmon  and  seasonings  and  let  become 
very  hot.  Serve  on  buttered  toast. 

Japanese  Shrimps 

2  cupfuls  cooked  shrimps  i  teaspoonful  onion  juice 
2  tablespoonfuls  butter  i|  cupfuls  milk 

1 4  tablespoonfuls  flour  Buttered  crumbs 

1  tablespoonful   chopped    pi- 
mentoes 

Break  the  shrimps  into  bits.  Add  the  pimentoes  to  the 
butter  and  cook  till  soft,  then  add  the  flour  and  milk  to 
make  a  white  sauce.  Turn  in  the  shrimps,  and  season 
to  taste;  turn  into  individual  baking  dishes  and  cover 
with  the  buttered  crumbs.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven,  and 
serve  with  radish  and  lettuce  salad. 

Tomatoes  Stuffed  with  Shrimps 

6  medium-sized  tomatoes  Pulp  from  the  tomato 

1 5  cupfuls  shrimps,  quar-  i  cupful  cream 

tered  \  cupful  soft  bread  crumbs 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  Salt  and  paprika  to  taste 
2  slices  onion,  diced 


292  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Cut  the  tomatoes  in  halves  crosswise,  and  remove  the 
pulp.  Dust  the  halves  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
drain.  Melt  the  butter  and  brown  the  onion  in  it  lightly. 
Add  the  tomato  pulp  and  cook  till  reduced  one-half. 
Add  the  other  ingredients,  then  the  shrimp,  and  pack  into 
the  tomato  halves.  Cover  with  buttered  crumbs.  Bake 
thirty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  serve  on  buttered 
toast  rounds,  or  garnished  with  additional  shrimps. 

Shrimp  Pie 

2\  cupfuls  shrimps  2  cupfuls  milk 

2  cupfuls  thinly-sliced  cooked          4  teaspoonful  salt 
potato  \  teaspoonful  pepper 

i  cupful  peas  2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

4  anchovies  Short  biscuit  crust 

3  tablespoonfuls  flour 

Cut  the  shrimps  in  small  pieces,  mince  the  anchovies 
and  butter  a  baking  dish.  Put  in  a  layer  of  the  shrimps, 
then  one  of  potato  and  one  of  peas;  sprinkle  with  some 
of  the  anchovies,  salt  and  pepper  and  flour,  then  repeat 
until  all  is  used  and  pour  over  the  milk  heated  to  scald- 
ing point.  Set  on  the  crust  slashed  to  let  out  the  steam, 
and  bake  thirty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

SALT  AND  SMOKED  FI^H 

Salt  and  smoked  fish  deserve  a  more  prominent  place 
in  every  household  menu.  In  the  first  place  they  are 
digestible  foods;  second,  they  are  cheaper  than  ordinary 
fish  because  they  contain  more  nutriment  in  proportion 
to  the  weight  and  have  no  waste.  At  the  same  time  the 
various  varieties  may  be  kept  on  hand  and  are  always 
ready  for  use  when  needed. 

It  is  a  mistake  to  freshen  dried  fish  too  long,  salt 
mackerel  and  codfish,  only  if  very  salt,  necessitating 
soaking  over  night.  Herring  and  salmon,  as  well  as 
bloaters,  simply  need  scalding.  Finnan  haddie  should  be 
allowed  to  soak  for  an  hour  in  cold  water  before  using. 

Browned  Codfish  on  Biscuit 

i  pound  salt  codfish  Salt  and  pepper 

3  tablespoonfuls  bacon  or  2  cupfuls  boiling  water 

beef  drippings  Baking  powder  biscuit 

5  tablespoonfuls  flour 


FISH  293 

Soak  the  codfish  an  hour  in  warm  water.  Drain,  re- 
move the  bones,  and  separate  the  fish  into  large  flakes. 
Dry  and  roll  in  flour.  Fry  in  the  drippings  until  tender 
and  brown.  Then  add  the  remaining  flour,  toss  the  fish 
about,  and  pour  in  the  water.  Let  boil,  season  to  taste, 
and  serve  on  the  biscuit,  split  and  buttered. 

Creamed  Codfish 

£  pound  salt  codfish  i  egg  yolk 

1 4  cupfuls   white   sauce  Dash  pepper 

Mashed    potatoes    or    boiled 
brown  or  uncoated  rice 

Soak  the  fish  an  hour  in  warm  water  to  cover.  With 
the  fingers  remove  the  bones.  Drain  the  fish,  cut  it  in 
small  pieces,  add  the  white  sauce  and  cook  until  tender. 
Combine  with  the  beaten  egg  yolk  just  before  serving. 
Pour  into  a  border  of  the  potato  or  rice  and  garnish  with 
parsley  minced  fine. 

Creamed  Codfish  with  Hard-Cooked  Eggs 

Add  three  sliced  hard-cooked  eggs  to  the  preceding 
recipe. 

Coddled  Codfish 

1  pound  salt  codfish,  flaked  i  tablespoonful  butter  or 
3  eggs  oleomargarine 

2  cupfuls  milk  Few  grains  pepper  and  salt 

Buttered  toast 

Freshen  the  codfish  for  an  hour  in  warm  water. 
Drain,  flake,  add  to  the  milk  with  the  butter,  and  bring 
slowly  to  scalding-point.  Beat  the  eggs  with  a  little  pep- 
per and  salt,  and  pour  the  milk  mixture  into  them.  Re- 
turn to  a  double  boiler  and  cook  until  the  eggs  become 
"  set,"  stirring  gently  once  during  the  process.  Then 
serve  on  toast. 

Codfish  Batter  Cakes 

i  cupful  shredded  codfish  3  egg  yolks 

i  cupful  flour  2  egg  whites 

§  cupful  water  i  teaspoonful  melted  butter 

Freshen  the  codfish.  Put  the  flour  in  a  bowl,  add  the 
water  gradually,  beating  well,  and  then  the  codfish. 
Beat  the  egg  whites  and  yolks  separately,  fold  them  in, 


294  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

add  the  butter,  and  drop  by  small  tablespoon fuls  into 
fat  hot  enough  to  brown  a  bit  of  bread  in  one  and  one- 
half  minutes.  Drain  on  brown  paper,  and  serve  with 
white,  tomato  or  Spanish  sauce. 


Fried  Salt  Codfish 

^ 

Salt  codfish  Salt  pork 

Soak  the  fish  for  two  hours  in  warm  water,  then  drain. 
In  the  meantime  try  out  several  slices  of  salt  pork,  and 
cook  until  they  are  crisp.  Remove  them  from  the  fat, 
and  put  in  the  fish.  Fry  to  a  light  brown  on  each  side, 
about  five  minutes,  and  serve  on  a  hot  platter. 

Hash-Browned  Codfish 

I  tablespoonful  butter  or  ba-  Dash  pepper 

con  drippings  \  cupful  flaked  salt  codfish 

I  tablespoonful  flour  2  cupfuls  chopped  cold 

I  cupful  milk  boiled  potatoes 
i  tablespoonful  parsley 

Make  a  sauce  of  the  fat,  flour,  milk  and  pepper.  Stir 
in  the  fish,  which  should  be  previously  freshened  and 
add  the  potatoes.  Turn  into  a  hot  frying  pan  containing 
a  tablespoonful  and  a  half  of  bacon  fat,  press  in  the 
mixture,  cover  and  set  in  the  oven  to  bake  until  a  rich 
crust  is  formed.  Serve  accompanied  with  cooked  bacon, 
or  an  egg  or  tomato  sauce. 

Salt  Codfish,  with  Baked  Eggs 

1  cupful  salt  codfish  (flaked)  2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

2  cupfuls  milk  bacon  fat 
2  tablespoonfuls  flour  Dash  pepper 
Grated  cheese  6  eggs 

Freshen  the  codfish  an  hour  in  warm  water,  then  make 
a  white  sauce  of  the  flour,  butter  and  milk.  Add  the 
fish,  season  to  taste  with  pepper,  pour  into  a  shallow 
baking  dish,  and  gently  break  the  eggs,  one  by  one,  into 
a  saucer  and  slip  them  onto  the  fish  mixture.  Sprinkle 
with  the  cheese.  Set  into  a  hot  oven  and  bake  till  the 
eggs  are  firm  —  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes. 


COLD  BOILED  SALMON  WITH  MAYONNAISE 


FISH,  READY  TO  BOIL 


FISH  295 

Devilled  Herring 

2  cupfuls  smoked,  boneless  3  tablespoonfuls  butter 

herring,  diced  3  tablespoonfuls  flour 

£  cupful  diced  celery  2  cupfuls  tomato  juice 

1  teaspoonful  mustard  I  cupful  buttered  crumbs 

2  tablespoonfuls  minced  i  teaspoonful  Worcestershire 
green  peppers  sauce 

1  teaspoonful  curry  I  tablespoonful  minced  onion 

Cut  the  herring  in  dice  and  scald.  Melt  the  butter  and 
fry  the  celery,  onion  and  pepper  in  it  till  yellowed.  Add 
the  fish  and  seasonings,  mix  well,  and  gradually  pour  in 
the  tomato.  Let  boil,  and  turn  into  buttered  ramekins, 
cover  with  the  crumbs,  and  bake  till  brown  in  a  moderate 
oven. 

Broiled  Salt  Mackerel 

Freshen  the  mackerel  over  night  in  cold  water.  Rinse 
and  dry  thoroughly  on  paper  toweling,  and  place  in  a  well- 
oiled  broiler  directly  over  the  coals.  Broil  for  twelve 
minutes,  transfer  to  a  hot  platter,  and  serve  with  lemon 
butter  and  sliced  lemon. 

Salt  Mackerel  in  Milk 

Soak  a  salt  mackerel  over  night  in  cold  water.  Rinse 
and  dry  on  paper  toweling,  then  place  in  a  baking  pan. 
Dredge  thickly  with  flour,  dot  with  bits  of  butter  and  al- 
most cover  with  milk.  Bake  until  the  mackerel  is  tender, 
about  twenty-five  minutes,  then  remove  gently  to  a  platter. 
Use  the  remaining  milk  in  the  pan  for  a  sauce. 

Broiled  Smoked  Salmon 

For  six  persons  allow  ij  pounds  of  salmon,  cut  J  inch 
thick.  Scald,  drain,  dry  well  and  broil  very  slowly  from 
ten  to  twelve  minutes.  Transfer  to  a  hot  platter,  and 
spread  a  little  butter  over  the  top.  Re-heat  in  the  oven 
for  a  moment  and  serve.  This  is  a  delicious  tidbit  to 
serve  with  eggs. 

Casserole  of  Smoked  Salmon 

2  pounds  smoked  salmon  6  quartered  potatoes 
4  small  onions  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

i  cupful  canned  peas  (if  con-  4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

venient)  drippings 

Bit  bay  leaf  I  cupful  rich  milk 

A  little  lemon  peel  Dried  bread  crumbs 


296  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

If  the  salmon  is  very  salt,  scald  it  with  boiling  water, 
then  cut  it  in  pieces  suitable  for  serving.  Chop  the 
onion.  Place  the  fish,  potatoes,  onion  (and  peas  if 
used)  in  alternate  layers  in  the  casserole,  sprinkling  the 
crumbs,  which  should  be  stirred  in  the  melted  butter, 
throughout  the  mixture.  The  bay  leaf  and  lemon  peel 
should  be  placed  in  the  middle.  Cover  the  mixture  with 
boiling  water,  or  soup  stock,  and  bake  slowly  for  an 
hour,  adding  the  milk  just  before  serving. 

Smoked  Salmon  (Chartreuse) 

ij  cupfuls  brown  or  uncoat-  i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

ed  rice  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  teaspoonfuls  curry  powder  \  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  f  cupful  milk 

2\  cupfuls  flaked,  smoked  2  tablespoonfuls  flour 

salmon  2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

Scald  the  salmon.  Boil  the  rice  as  usual  and  stir 
lightly  into  it  the  curry  powder,  creamed  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  butter.  Make  a  thick  sauce  of  the  but- 
ter, flour  and  milk  and  add  the  fish,  lemon  juice,  pepper 
and  onion  juice.  Line  a  well-buttered  bread  pan  with  the 
rice.  Pack  in  the  fish  mixture,  put  a  layer  of  rice  over 
the  top,  and  steam  or  bake  in  the  oven  for  thirty  min- 
utes. Serve  with  creamed  peas. 

Devilled  Smoked  Salmon 

1  pound  smoked  salmon  2  cloves 

4  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  Bit  bay  leaf 

2  tablespoonfuls  vinegar  6  peppercorns 

Pour  a  marinade  made  of  a  mixture  of  all  the  ingre- 
dients over  the  salmon  and  let  stand  for  several  hours. 
Then  fry  the  slices  in  a  good  salad  or  cooking  oil,  and 
serve  at  once,  garnished  with  sliced  lemon. 

Turban  of  Smoked  Salmon  with  String  Beans 

I  pound,  or  il  cupfuls  minced  2  eggs 

salmon  (smoked)  I  tablespoonful  minced  pars- 

I  cupful  soft  bread-  crumbs  ley 

I  cupful  milk  \  teaspoonful  onion  juice 
4  tablespoonfuls  butter 

Scald  the  salmon,  then  mince  very  fine.  Cook  the 
crumbs  and  milk  together  to  a  smooth  paste,  add  the  but- 


FISH  297 

ter,  parsley  and  onion  juice,  and  turn  into  the  fish.  Beat 
the  egg  yolks  till  lemon-colored,  add  to  the  mixture  and 
fold  in  the  whites,  beaten  stiff.  Turn  into  a  well-oiled 
ring  mould,  surround  with  boiling  water,  and  bake  until 
firm,  about  twenty-five  minutes.  Unmould,  fill  the  cen- 
ter with  well-seasoned  string  beans  and  serve  with  a 
white  or  egg  sauce. 

Smoked  Halibut,  Pilau 

1  pound  smoked  halibut  i  cupful  stewed  tomato 

|  cupful  brown  or  uncoated  i  tablespoonful  minced  onion 

rice  3  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

2  cnpfuls  water  or  soup  drippings 
stock  i  teaspoonful  salt 

Scald  the  halibut,  then  drain  and  simmer  gently  till 
tender.  Remove  the  bones,  flake  the  fish  and  re-heat 
in  the  fat.  In  the  meantime  cook  the  rice,  salt  and  onion 
together  in  the  water  or  stock,  and  when  almost  done 
turn  in  the  tomato.  Cook  until  dry,  pour  onto  the  plat- 
ter, turn  the  fish  over  it,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Smoked  Halibut  Ramekins 

i  cupful  shredded,  smoked  3  eggs 

halibut  I  tablespoonful  minced  onion 

li  cupfuls  milk  i  tablespoonful  minced  pars- 

1  tablespoonful  butter  ley 

i£  tablespoonfuls  flour  Grated  cheese 

Pepper  to  taste  Bread  crumbs 

Make  a  sauce  of  the  milk,  butter,  flour  and  pepper. 
Add  the  halibut,  which  should  be  scalded,  the  onion, 
parsley  and  eggs,  slightly  beaten.  Put  into  buttered 
ramekins,  sprinkle  with  buttered  bread  crumbs  and 
strew  with  the  cheese.  Set  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  and 
bake  for  twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Smoked  Halibut  en  Creme 

2  cupfuls  flaked,  smoked  hal-          2!  tablespoonfuls  flour 
ibut  Pepper 

2j  cupfuls  milk  3^  tablespoonfuls  minced  pi- 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  mentoes 

Scald  the  halibut.  Melt  the  butter,  turn  in  the  pimen- 
toes,  and  cook  till  softened,  then  add  the  flour  and  milk 
to  make  the  sauce.  Add  the  halibut  with  pepper  to  taste, 
let  become  very  hot  and  serve  in  a  wall  of  mashed  pota- 


298  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

toes,  on  a  bed  of  plain  boiled  macaroni,  or  with  potato, 
or  plain  rice  croquettes. 

Casserole  of  Smoked  Halibut 

ii  pounds  smoked  halibut  6  quartered  potatoes 

3  small  onions  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

i  cupful  carrots  cut  in  strip?  i£  cupfuls  tomato  juice 

Boiling  water  4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 
Bread  crumbs  drippings 

Brown  the  carrots  and  onions  in  the  fat,  and  parboil 
the  potatoes  for  five  minutes,  then  drain  and  rinse  them. 
Scald  the  fish  and  cut  in  pieces  suitable  for  serving. 
Put  a  layer  in  the  casserole,  then  some  crumbs  and  vege- 
tables, more  fish,  etc.,  continuing  until  all  is  used. 
Barely  cover  with  the  tomato  juice  (drained  from  canned 
tomatoes)  and  water,  cover,  and  bake  for  an  hour. 

Finnan  Haddie,  Baked  in  Milk 

Soak  finnan  haddie  in  hot  water  to  cover  for  one  hour. 
Place  on  a  baking  pan  or  platter,  sprinkle  plentifully  with 
flour,  dot  with  butter  and  add  a  dash  of  pepper.  Cover 
with  hot  milk  and  bake  until  tender,  about  twenty-five 
minutes,  in  a  hot  oven. 

Broiled  Finnan  Haddie,  with  Cream  Sauce 

Soak  the  finnan  haddie  for  twenty  minutes  in  warm 
water.  Drain  and  dry  thoroughly.  Brush  with  melted 
butter  and  broil  until  brown  on  both  sides.  Place  on  a 
heated  platter,  dot  with  butter  and  serve,  after  re-heating 
an  instant  in  the  oven. 

Finnan  Haddie,  with  Tomatoes 

i£  pounds  finnan  haddie  2  tablespoonfuls  minced 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  green  pepper  or  pimentoes 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter  3  tablespoonfuls  minced 
Dash  pepper  onion 

2  cupfuls  tomato  juice 

Scald  the  finnan  haddie,  and  then  boil  it  gently  for 
thirty  minutes.  Flake  into  large  bits,  carefully  remov- 
ing all  the  bones.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  fry  the 
onion  and  pepper  in  it  until  softened,  add  the  flour  and, 
gradually,  the  tomato  juice.  Let  it  boil,  add  the  fish,  and 


FISH  299 

when  it  becomes  very  hot  serve  with  plain  boiled  and 
seasoned  macaroni,  spaghetti  or  noddles. 

Finnan  Haddie,  with  Puffed  Potato 

2\  pounds  finnan  haddie  Strips  of  bacon,  or  pimentoes 

3  cupfuls  mashed  potato  Milk 

1  egg 

Scald  the  finnan  haddie  to  freshen  it,  dry  thoroughly 
and  brush  with  melted  drippings.  Then  broil.  Cut  in 
pieces  suitable  for  serving.  Have  ready  three  cupfuls 
of  well-seasoned  mashed  potato,  beaten  until  creamy, 
whip  in  the  egg  yolk,  and  one  egg  white  beaten  stiff,  pile 
onto  the  fish,  brush  lightly  with  milk  and  garnish  with 
pimento  strips,  or  thin  slices  of  bacon.  Set  in  a  hot  oven 
until  the  bacon  is  cooked  and  the  potato  browned.  Serve 
at  once.  The  garnish  may  be  omitted. 

Finnan  Haddie,  Newburg 

2  cupfuls  bits  of  broiled  fin-          2  tablespoon fuls    green    pep- 
nan  haddie  pers  (minced) 

2  cupfuls  milk  I  tablespoonful  pimentoes, 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  minced 

i  teaspoonful  salt  3  hard-cooked  eggs 

Few  grains  red  pepper  i  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 
oleomargarine 

Cook  the  peppers  and  pimentoes,  until  softened,  in  the 
butter,  then  add  the  flour,  hard-cooked  egg  yolks,  and, 
gradually,  the  milk.  Then  turn  in  the  finnan  haddie  and 
egg  whites,  sliced.  Let  stand  to  become  very  hot.  Add 
the  lemon  juice  and  serve  on  buttered  toast,  or  boiled 
brown  rice. 


CHAPTER  XI 
THE  FRYING  OF  FOOD 

ALL    MEASUREMENTS   ARE   LEVEL 

FATS  SUITABLE  FOR  FRYING 

Several  fats  may  be  used  for  frying,  the  ideal  being  a 
vegetable  oil;  olive  oil  gives  the  best  results,  but  as  this 
is  too  expensive  for  the  average  purse,  any  of  the  pre- 
pared cooking  oils  are  next  best,  while  lard  and  beef  fat, 
and  odds  and  ends  of  household  scraps,  follow  in  the 
order  given.  Butter  or  oleomargarine  should  never  be 
used  for  frying,  as  either  burns  at  too  low  a  temperature. 
A  mixture  of  two-thirds  lard  and  one-third  home-ren- 
dered beef  fat  gives  excellent  results,  and  is  used  by 
chefs  the  world  over,  because  it  produces  a  rich  brown 
color  unequalled  by  any  other  fat. 

Rendering  or  Trying  Out  Beef  Fat 
To  try  out  beef  fat  for  frying,  cut  it  in  small  pieces 
and  let  it  stand  over  night  in  cold  salted  water.  Then 
drain,  add  a  cupful  of  cold  water  to  each  two  pounds  of 
fat,  and  cook  gently  on  the  back  of  the  range  or  in  the 
oven,  until  the  fat  is  clear,  all  bubbling  has  ceased,  and 
the  "  scrapple/'  or  "  crackling,"  is  crisp  and  brown.  It 
may  then  be  strained  through  a  cloth  into  a  clean  pail  or 
can,  allowed  to  stiffen,  and  be  kept  indefinitely  in  a  cool 
place. 

Clarifying  and  Preparing  Left-Over  Fats 
Mutton  fat  may  also  be  used  in  the  frying  kettle,  pro- 
vided that  it  is   soaked   for  twenty-four  hours   in  cold 
salted  water,  the  latter  being  changed  every  few  hours  to 
wash  out  the  "  wooly  taste." 

To  prepare  fat  from  corned  beef,  the  soup  kettle,  etc. 
for  frying,  let  it  rise  to  the  top  of  the  liquid  and  solidify. 
Then  remove  it  to  the  fat  pan,  add  a  little  baking  soda 

300 


THE  FRYING  OF  FOOD  301 

and  cold  water  barely  to  cover,  and  let  it  cook  slowly 
until  the  water  has  evaporated;  or  the  water  may  be 
omitted,  the  soda  and  slices  of  raw  potato  being  added 
to  the  fat  instead.  When  the  potato  has  become  brown 
the  fat  will  be  clarified.  Most  of  the  odors  and  flavors 
of  the  meats  and  vegetables  pass  off  in  the  steam  from 
the  water  or  from  the  water  of  the  potato. 

Using  Savory  Fats 

Ham,  chicken,  bacon  and  sausage  fat  should  not  be 
put  into  the  frying  kettle,  but  be  reserved  for  sauteing  or 
frying  in  a  skillet. 

To  Try  Out  Chicken  Fat 

Remove  all  particles  of  flesh  and  bits  of  blood  from 
the  chicken  fat.  Let  the  fat  stand  for  an  hour  in  cold, 
salted  water.  Then  drain  from  the  water,  put  in  an 
open  pan,  and  try  out  slowly  in  the  oven,  pouring  off  the 
melted  fat  as  fast  as  it  accumulates.  t  Goose  fat  may  be 
treated  in  the  same  way. 

Utensils  for  Deep-Fat  Frying 

Several  utensils  are  needed  for  deep-fat  frying.  A 
frying  basket  and  a  substantial  deep  iron  or  steel 
kettle,  with  a  wide  bottom  to  allow  a  generous  heat- 
ing expanse,  so  that  it  is  not  necessary  to  set 
the  kettle  directly  over  the  fire,  are  the  essentials. 
The  kettle  should  be  heavy  enough  so  that  it  can- 
not be  easily  tipped,  and  deep  enough  so  that  all  pos- 
sibility of  "  boiling-over "  fat  will  be  avoided.  The 
utensil  should  be  kept  for  one  purpose,  as,  despite  the 
most  scrupulous  care,  it  will  become  permeated  with  fat, 
thus  imparting  a  disagreeable  flavor  to  any  food  boiled 
in  it. 

When  to  Fry  in  Deep  Fat 

Deep- fat  frying  is  used  ^for  various  foods ;  croquettes, 
fish-balls,  thin  meats,  like  veal  steak  or  chops  or  chicken, 
small  fish,  as  oysters,  smelts  or  brook  trout,  fritters, 
doughnuts,  fried  cakes,  and  several  vegetables  as  well 
can  be  cooked  in  it  with  much  less  trouble  and  better  re- 
sults than  in  the  skillet.  It  is  necessary  to  know  the 
exact  time  each  must  cook  before  attempting  this  method. 


302  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Croquettes,  which  are  always  made  of  cooked  ingre- 
dients, as  chicken,  potato,  salmon,  etc.,  simply  need  to  be 
browned,  and  re-heated  in  the  hot  fat.  When  it  is  of 
the  right  temperature,  they  can  almost  be  immersed  and 
then  be  immediately  lifted  out  —  when  they  will  be 
brown,  crusty  and  hot.  Uncooked  mixtures,  like  dough- 
nuts, fritters,  and  fried  cakes,  must  be  cooked  more 
slowly,  as,  otherwise,  the  very  hot  fat  will  cause  a  crust 
to  form  before  they  have  risen  properly,  and  the  ex- 
panding gases  will  burst  through  the  crust,  causing  the 
food  to  "  soak  fat."  Potatoes  for  French  frying  need  a 
still  longer  time,  while  raw  meats  cannot  cook  under  five 
to  seven  minutes. 

The  old-fashioned  "  smoke  test "  to  ascertain  the  readi- 
ness of  fat  for  cookery  is  not  satisfactory,  as  any  fat  that 
smokes  is  burned,  and,  therefore,  broken  up.  It  is  be- 
cause of  this  fact  that  fried  food  disagrees  with  so  many. 
The  term  "  when  the  fat  boils  "  is  still  in  common  usage ; 
but  fat  itself  cannot  boil;  it  is  the  water  within  it  that 
becomes  hot,  generates  steam,  and  causes  the  fat  appar- 
ently to  "  boil."  That  is  why,  when  wet  potatoes  are 
submerged  in  it,  the  fat  rises  as  in  boiling,  and,  unless 
the  kettle  is  sufficiently  deep,  effervesces  over  the  sides 
to  the  heat  and  may  cause  a  fire.  The  only  easy  kitchen 
test  for  the  temperature  of  fat  is  with  a  bit  of  bread. 
The  length  of  time  which  is  consumed  in  browning  the 
bread  determines  the  readiness  of  the  fat  for  each  par- 
ticular food.  The  time  must  be  measured  by  the  clock 
to  insure  success  in  using  this  method.  The  following 
table  gives  the  exact  time  needed  to  brown  the  bread  in 
testing  for  each  food : 

Time  Table  for  Frying  in  Deep  Fat 

Croquettes  and  Oysters  40  seconds 

Doughnuts,  Fritters,  etc.  i  minute 

Small  Fish  I  minute 

French  Fried  Potatoes  „      i£  minutes 

Raw  Meat  2  minutes 

How  to  Prevent  the  u  Soaking  of  Fat " 

In  order  to  prevent  "  soaking  fat  '  all  foods  cooked  in 
deep  fat  should  contain,  or  else  be  coated  with,  some  al- 
buminous substance,  such  as  egg  or  milk.  As  heat  has 


THE  FRYING  OF  FOOD  303 

the  power  of  hardening  albumen  at  once  (as  in  the  fry- 
ing of  eggs)  a  coating  is  immediately  formed  through 
which  the  fat  cannot  penetrate,  if  it  is  of  the  right  tem- 
perature. 

Egging  and  Crumbing  Croquettes 
In  making  croquettes  it  is  customary  to  prepare  the 
mixture,  form  it  into  any  shape  desired,  roll  it  in  crumbs 
or  flour,  then  in  egg  whites  and  water  (J  cupful  of  water 
mixed  with  an  egg  white  will  cover  six  croquettes)  and 
again  in  crumbs  or  flour.  (A  half  tablespoonful  of 
gelatine,  softened  and  dissolved  in  a  half  cupful  of  boil- 
ing water,  may  be  substituted  for  the  egg.)  With  egg, 
dry,  sifted  bread  crumbs  are  used,  while  flour  or  meal  is 
combined  with  milk  as  either  will  absorb  the  excess 
liquid.  Either  combination  forms  a  delicious  thin  crust, 
through  which  the  juices  of  meat,  for  instance,  cannot 
escape,  any  more  than  the  fat  can  enter.  Care  must  be 
taken  absolutely  to  cover  every  part  of  the  croquette 
with  the  coatings,  or  the  fat  will  enter  at  the  exposed 
part  and  cause  the  croquette  to  burst. 

How  to  Fry  Foods  in  Deep  Fat 

One  or  two  eggs  are  always  added  to  the  batter  for 
doughnuts  or  fritters ;  this  acts  just  as  the  egg  with  which 
the  croquette  is  coated,  and  keeps  out  fat.  If  the  dough 
is  too  short,  however,  fat  will  be  absorbed.  Drop  the 
batter  by  tablespoonfuls  into  the  hot  fat.  Meats  or 
small  fish  should  be  "  coated "  according  to  the  direc- 
tions given  for  croquettes.  French  fried  potatoes,  fish, 
meat  and  croquettes  should  be  placed  in  the  frying 
basket  before  being  lowered  into  the  fat,  as  by  this  means 
several  articles  can  be  cooked  at  once,  and  be  quickly  re- 
moved when  done.  Doughnuts  and  fritters  should  be 
slipped  directly  into  the  fat  without  aid  of  the  basket,  and, 
as  they  should  rise  immediately  to  the  surface,  they  can 
be  readily  removed  with  a  long-handled  fork.  It  is 
never  necessary  to  "  turn "  a  fritter  or  doughnut,  as 
when  they  are  "  done  "  on  one  side,  the  heavier  weight 
of  the  uncooked  dough  on  the  top  will  cause  them  to  turn 
over  without  assistance.  In  frying,  no  article  should 
touch  another,  as  steam  will  be  created  at  the  point  of 


304  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

contact,  which  will  cause  the  crust  to  burst.  No  matter 
what  the  food,  it  should  always  be  drained  on  crumpled 
brown  paper  or  paper  toweling  before  serving. 

With  the  right  care,  fat  will  last  as  long  as  a  drop 
remains.  When  nearly  cold,  it  should  be  put  through 
a  fine  strainer  or  cloth  into  a  clean  can ;  after  being  used 
several  times,  it  will  not  color  the  foods  well  and,  when 
cooked,  they  will  have  a  slightly  unpleasant  taste.  It 
must  then  be  clarified.  This  is  done  just  as  the  left-over 
fat  is  prepared  for  the  frying  kettle  —  by  heating  with 
the  sliced  raw  potato  and  soda. 

It  may  seem  on  first  thought  that  deep-fat  frying  is 
more  troublesome  than  in  the  ordinary  skillet.  When  it 
is  considered  how  quickly  the  foods  cook,  and  how  much 
easier  it  is  to  prepare  them  in  this  way,  instead  of  stand- 
ing over  the  hot  stove  to  watch  the  skillet,  and  when  the 
saving  in  fat  is  recalled,  any  housewife  will  adopt  this 
method  if  she  must  fry  at  all 

Various  fires  have  resulted  from  careless  handling  of 
the  deep-fat  kettle,  but  just  as  many  fires  can  occur  from 
the  fat-laden  spider ;  and  any  careful  housewife,  whether 
she  fries,  or  broils  or  cooks  in  any  way,  will  have  at 
least  a  pail  of  sand  in  her  kitchen  to  meet  such  an  emer- 
gency. This  will  quench  any  fire  —  from  burning  fat 
or  oil,  or  blazing  paper,  and  this  little  timely  precaution 
in  the  kitchen  may  be  the  means  of  avoiding  serious  acci- 
dent and  saving  hundreds  of  dollars'  worth  of  property. 

CROQUETTES 
Shaping  Croquettes 

Croquettes  should  bevnade  rather  small,  as  they  will 
then  heat  through  while  the  outside  is  browning.  A 
good  standard  measurement  is  a  rounded  tablespoonful 
of  the  mixture  to  a  croquette.  In  shaping,  first  make 
them  into  balls,  having  the  mixture  as  soft  as  it  can  pos- 
sibly be  handled  and  cuddling,  rather  than  pressing,  it 
into  s*hape.  Roll  these  balls  lightly  in  flour  or  fine 
crumbs.  When  all  have  been  formed  into  balls,  start  at 
the  beginning  again  and  give  them  any  shape  desired, 
either  cylindrical,  in  the  form  of  cutlets,  or  pyramids. 


THE  FRYING  OF  FOOD  305 

Then  egg  and  crumb.  If  they  are  allowed  to  stand  a  few 
minutes  after <  the  first  shaping,  they  can  be  easily 
handled. 

General  Recipe  for  Croquettes 

2  cupfuls  finely-minced  meat         %  cupful  White  Sauce  No.  3 
or  fish  Seasoning  to  taste 

1  egg  yolk 

Put  together  in  the  order  given.  Form  into  balls,  or 
whatever  shape  may  be  desired,  egg  and  crumb,  and  fry 
as  directed. 

Potato  Croquettes 

2  cupfuls  hot  riced  potatoes  Few  drops  onion  juice 
2  tablespoonfuls  butter  I  egg  yolk 

i  teaspoonful  salt  I  teaspoonful  minced  parsley 

i  teaspoonful  pepper  Milk,   or  cream,  to  moisten, 

\  teaspoonful  celery  salt  if  necessary 
Few  grains  cayenne 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given  and  beat  thor- 
oughly. Shape  into  balls.  Egg  and  crumb,  and  fry  as 
in  general  directions. 

Potato  and  Ham  Croquettes 

Prepare  the  mixture  as  for  Potato  Croquettes,  and  add 
I  cupful  of  finely-minced  ham.  Egg,  crumb  and  fry  as 
in  general  directions. 

Potato  Croquettes  en  Surprise 

Prepare  the  mixture  as  for  Potato  Croquettes,  em- 
bedding in  the  center  of  each  a  small  piece  of  cooked  sau- 
sage. Egg,  crumb  and  fry  as  in  general  directions. 

Potato  and  Nut  Croquettes 

Prepare  the  mixture  as  for  Potato  Croquettes,  and 
add  f  cupful  of  chopped  peanuts,  black  walnuts  or 
hickory  nuts.  Egg,  crumb  and  fry  according  to  general 
directions. 

Potato  and  Cheese  Croquettes 

Prepare  the  mixture  as  for  Potato  Croquettes,  and  add 
to  it  J  cupful  of  grated  American  cheese.  Egg,  crumb 
and  fry  as  in  general  directions. 


306  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Sweetbread  Croquettes 

I  cupful  finely-chopped  cook-  i  egg  yolk 

ed  sweetbreads  Few  grains  mace 

i  cupful  chopped,  cooked  Few  drops  onion  juice 

mushrooms  £  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

i  cupful  thick  white  sauce  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given.  Egg,  crumb 
and  fry  as  in  general  directions. 

Meat  and  Apple  Croquettes 

i  pound   chopped  raw  meat,          li  teaspoonfuls  salt 
any  kind  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

i  tart  apple      •  Flour 

1  egg 

Peel  the  apple  and  grate  it.  Mix  it  with  the  meat,  the 
egg,  and  seasonings  and  form  into  small,  flat  croquettes. 
Roll  these  in  flour  and  fry  in  deep  fat  hot  enough  to 
brown  a  bit  of  bread  in  two  minutes.  Drain  on  crumpled 
paper  and  serve  garnished  with  parsley. 

Sweet  Potato  Croquettes 

2!  cupfuls    riced    sweet   po-  i  well-beaten  egg 

tato  i  teaspoonful  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  3  tablespoonfuls  chopped  al- 
2  tablespoonfuls  milk  or  monds  (optional) 

cream  Few  grains  pepper 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given,  shape  and  cook 
according  to  general  directions. 

Corn  Croquettes 

I  can  corn  4  teaspoonful  pepper 

i  green  pepper,  minced  i  cupful  butter  or   oleomar- 

£  tablespoonful  parsley,  garine 

minced  6  tablespoonfuls  flour 
i  teaspoonful  salt 

Remove  the  core  and  seeds  from  the  pepper;  then 
mince  it.  Let  it  boil  two  minutes,  drain  and  add  to  the 
corn  with  the  seasonings.  Heat  the  mixture  to  boiling 
point  and  thicken  with  the  fat  and  flour  rubbed  together. 
The  exact  amount  of  flour  varies  with  the  wetness  of 
the  corn.  Chill  the  mixture  and  form  into  balls,  egg  and 
crumb  and  fry  according  to  general  directions. 


THE  FRYING  OF  FOOD  307 

Egg  Croquettes 

6  hard-cooked  eggs  I  tablespoonful  pounded  sar- 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  dines  or  anchovies 
i  tablespoonful  minced  onion          I  teaspoonful  salt 

6  tablespoonfuls  flour  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

I  cupful  white  soup  stock 

Hard  cook  the  eggs,  then  cool  and  chop  them.  Cook 
the  butter  and  onions  together  for  three  minutes,  then 
add  the  flour  and  stock.  Let  boil,  turn  in  the  anchovies 
and  season.  Add  the  eggs,  cool,  shape  like  eggs,  egg  and 
crumb  and  fry  according  to  general  directions. 

Lentil  Croquettes 

i  cupful  lentils  Few  stalks  celery 

i  cupful  cooked  brown  or  i  teaspoonful  minced  parsley 

uncoated  rice  i  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

I  egg  yolk  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

i  teaspoonful  salt  Grating  of  nutmeg 

Soak  the  lentils  over  night.  Wash  thoroughly,  drain, 
add  the  celery,  cover  with  boiling  water  and  cook  until 
the  centers  are  tender.  Drain  well  again  and  press 
through  a  colander.  Add  the  rice,  the  egg  and  other  sea- 
sonings. Cool  and  form  into  balls,  and  cook  according 
to  general  directions. 

Cheese  Croquettes 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter  ii  cupfuls  chopped  American 
\  cupful  flour  cheese 

I  cupful  milk  %  teaspoonful  salt 

1  egg  $  teaspoonful  paprika 

Make  a  white  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour,  salt,  paprika 
and  milk.  Mix  together  the  cheese  and  the  egg,  add  to 
the  sauce  and  cook  until  the  cheese  is  melted,  then  chill. 
Shape  into  balls,  egg,  and  fry  according  to  general  direc- 
tions. 

Tuna  Fish  Croquettes 

2  cupfuls  flaked  tuna  fish  2  teaspoonfuls  lemon  juice 
I  cupful  White  Sauce  No.  3         £  teaspoonful  salt 

Few  grains  cayenne 

Add  the  sauce  to  the  fish  with  the  lemon  juice,  salt  and 
cayenne.  Cool  thoroughly,  then  shape,  egg,  crumb, 
and  cook  according  to  general  directions. 


308  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Serve  with  white  sauce  containing  sliced  stuffed  olives 
and  a  chopped  hard-cooked  egg. 

Shad  Roe  Croquettes 

i  pair  shad  roe  i  teaspoonful  salt 

1  egg  i  teaspoonful  pepper 
3  tablespoonfuls  melted  but-          Cracker  crumbs 

ter 

Simmer  the  shad  roe  for  twenty  minutes  in  water  to 
cover,  containing  two  cloves,  a  bit  of  bay  leaf  and  a  sliced 
onion.  When  tender,  pick  in  bits  with  a  fork,  and  mix 
with  the  butter,  salt,  pepper  and  egg,  unbeaten,  adding 
the  crumbs  as  necessary  to  thicken.  Serve  with  horse- 
radish sauce. 

Salmon  Croquettes 

2  cupfuls  cold  flaked  salmon          £  teaspoonful  salt 

i  cupful  White  Sauce  No.  3  2  tablespoonfuls    minced 

Few  grains  cayenne  green  pepper  (optional) 

I  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

Add  the  2  tablespoonfuls  of  minced  green  pepper  (op- 
tional) and  the  sauce  to  the  salmon,  then  the  seasonings. 
Cool  and  shape,  egg  and  crumb,  and  cook  according  to  the 
general  directions.  Serve  with  peas,  white  sauce,  or  egg 
sauce. 

Oyster  Chops 

i  cupful  steamed  oysters  i  teaspoonful  parsley 

i  cupful  cooked  veal  I  teaspoonful  salt 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter  Few  grains  cayenne 
6  tablespoonfuls  flour  Few  grains  nutmeg 

I  cupful  cream  or  undiluted          I  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 
evaporated  milk 

Steam  the  oysters,  chill,  cut  in  small  pieces  and  mix 
with  the  veal,  minced.  Make  a  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour, 
cream  and  seasonings.  Add  the  oyster  mixture,  chill 
and  form  into  chop  shapes,  egg,  crumb  and  cook  accord- 
ing to  the  general  directions. 

-  Halibut  Chops 

2\  cupfuls  cold  flaked  halibut  £  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

3  tablesooonfuls  butter  i  teaspoonful  salt 

6  tablespoonfuls  flour  Few  grains  pepper 

ij  cupfuls  hot  milk  Few  grains  mace 

i  teaspoonful  onion  juice  i  teaspoonful  minced  parsley 


THE  FRYING  OF  FOOD  309 

Make  a  sauce  by  melting  the  butter,  and  stirring  in 
the  flour  and  hot  milk.  Add  the  seasonings,  and  the  re- 
maining ingredients.  Combine  with  the  fish,  cool,  shape 
into  cutlets,  egg,  crumb  and  fry  according  to  the  general 
directions  for  croquettes. 

Serve  with  creamed  peas,  tomato  or  egg  sauce  around 
a  mould  of  mashed  potato. 

Veal  Croquettes 

2  cupfuls  chopped,  cooked  £  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

cold  veal  i  egg  yolk 

i  teaspoonful  salt  I  cupful  White  Sauce  No.  3 

i  teaspoonful  pepper  made  with  stock 
Few  grains  cayenne 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given.  Cool,  form 
into  the  desired  shape,  egg  and  cook  according  to  the  gen- 
eral directions. 

Chicken  Croquettes 

ii  cupfuls  chopped  cooked  Salt 

chicken  Paprika 

i  cupful  White  Sauce  No.  3  Celery  salt 

i  egg  yolk  i  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

Combine  the  chicken  and  sauce  and  season  to  taste; 
stir  in  the  egg  yolk  and  let  chill.  Form  into  cutlet 
shapes,  egg,  crumb  and  fry  according  to  the  general  di- 
rections. 

Plain  Rice  Croquettes 

\  cupful  uncoated  or  brown  \  teaspoonful  salt 

rice  2  egg  yolks 

i  cupful  boiling  water  i  tablespoonful  butter 
i  cupful  scalded  milk 

Wash  the  rice,  add  to  the  water  with  the  salt,  cover 
and  steam  until  the  rice  has  absorbed  the  water.  Then 
add  the  milk,  cover  and  steam  until  the  rice  is  soft.  Re- 
move from  the  heat,  add  the  egg  yolks  and  butter,  and 
cool.  Shape  into  balls,  egg,  crumb,  and  fry  according 
to  general  directions.  Or,  form  into  nest-shape,  fry  and 
put  a  cube  of  jelly  in  each  croquette,  arrange  on  a  folded 
napkin  and  garnish  with  parsley. 


310  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Sweet  Rice  Croquettes 

1  cupful  uncoated  rice  3  tablespoonfuls  butter 
24  cupfuls  milk  I  cupful  sugar 

%  teaspoonful  salt  i  cupful    figs    cut    in    small 

2  egg  yolks  pieces 

Cook  the  rice  in  milk  in  a  double  boiler  until  tender  and 
dry  —  about  an  hour.  Stir  in  the  butter,  sugar  and  figs 
with  a  fork,  add  the  egg  yolk,  beaten,  and  cool.  Then 
form  into  balls,  egg  and  crumb,  and  fry  according  to  the 
general  directions.  Serve  with  fresh  sliced  peaches  or 
peach  sauce. 

Dried  Peach  and  Rice  Croquettes 

%  cupful  uncoated  rice  I  cupful   liquid    in   which   it 

4  cupful  boiling  water  was  cooked 

4  cupful  dried  peach  pulp  4  teaspoonful  salt 

and  Grating  lemon  rind 

Add  the  rice  to  the  water  with  the  salt,  cover  and  steam 
until  the  water  has  been  absorbed;  then  add  the  fruit, 
fruit  juice  and  lemon  rind ;  stir  lightly  with  a  fork,  cover 
and  steam  until  the  rice  is  done.  Cool,  form  into  cro- 
quettes, egg,  crumb  and  fry  according  to  the  general  direc- 
tions. 

Banana  Croquettes 

3  bananas  I  orange  or  lemon 

Powdered  sugar 

Cut  the  bananas  in  halves  crosswise,  making  the  ends 
square.  Place  in  an  earthen  bowl  and  squeeze  the  juice 
of  half  an  orange  or  a  lemon  over  them.  Sprinkle  with 
powdered  sugar,  cover  and  let  stand  thirty  minutes. 
Drain,  egg,  crumb  and  fry  according  to  general  direc- 
tions. Serve  with  hot  lemon  or  cold  orange  sauce. 


FRITTERS  AND  DOUGHNUTS 

Batter  for  Fritters 

i  cupful  flour          .  2  eggs 

•k  teaspoonful  salt  4  teaspoonful  melted  butter 

I  cupful  milk 

Mix  the  salt  and  flour,  and  add  the  water  gradually, 
beating  with  an  eggrbeater ;  stir  in  the  egg  yolks,  beaten 


THE  FRYING  OF  FOOD  311 

till  lemon-colored.  Add  the  butter  and  then  the  egg 
whites,  beaten  stiff.  This  may  be  kept  over  night  if  the 
egg  whites  are  not  added. 

Apple  or  Peach  Fritters 

Apples  Powdered  sugar 

Batter  for  fritters 

Pare  and  core  the  apples  and  cut  in  rings  crosswise. 
Sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar  and  let  stand  for  twenty 
minutes,  then  dip  in  the  batter.  Fry  in  deep  fat,  accord- 
ing to  the  general  directions.  Drain  on  crumpled  brown 
paper  and  dust  with  powdered  sugar.  If  desired,  three 
apples  may  be  pared,  cored  and  cut  into  bits,  then  stirred 
into  the  batter  and  fried.  Peaches  may  be  used  in  the 
same  way. 

Banana  Fritters 

4  bananas  i  tablespoonf  ul  grated  orange 

Powdered  sugar  rind 

£  tablespoonful  lemon  juice  Batter 

Remove  the  skins  from  the  bananas.  Scrape  off  the 
white  cellulose,  cut  in  halves  lengthwise,  and  cut  the 
halves  in  two  pieces  crosswise.  Sprinkle  with  the  pow- 
dered sugar,  lemon  juice  and  orange  rind.  Cover  and  let 
stand  thirty  minutes.  Then  dip  in  the  batter,  fry  in  deep 
fat,  and  drain  on  brown  paper.  Sprinkle  with  powdered 
sugar. 

Prune  Fritters 

I  cupful  flour  2  egg  whites 

i  teaspoonful  salt  i  teaspoonful  melted  butter 

§  cupful  water  I  cupful    stoned   and   halved 

3  egg  yolks  cooked  prunes 

Mix  together  the  dry  ingredients,  beat  in  the  water, 
then  the  egg  yolks,  well-beaten,  and  the  butter.  Add  the 
prunes,  then  the  well-whipped  egg  whites,  and  fry  in  deep 
fat,  hot,  according  to  general  directions.  Drain  on  brown 
paper,  dust  with  powdered  sugar  and  serve  with  a  thick- 
ened prune  sauce.  This  is  an  excellent  way  to  utilize  left- 
over prunes. 


312  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Sponge  Banana  Fritters   (Miss  Bruso) 

1  cupful  flour  3  bananas 

2  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow-  i  teaspoonful  salt 
der  i  egg 

3  teaspoonfuls   powdered  £  cupful  milk 

sugar  i  tablespoon ful  lemon  juice 

Mix  and  sift  the  dry  ingredients.  Beat  the  egg  well, 
add  the  milk  and  combine  with  the  dry  ingredients.  Beat 
till  smooth.  Put  the  bananas  through  a  potato  ricer  and 
add  with  the  lemon  juice.  Fry  according  to  general 
directions  for  fritters,  drain  on  paper  and  serve  with 
lemon  or  orange  sauce. 

Cranberry  Fritters  (To  Serve  with  Turkey) 

1  cupful  flour  i  cupful   cranberries    cooked 

2  teaspoonfuls    baking    pow-  in  syrup 

der  i  teaspoonful  salt 

ii  tablespoonfuls  powdered  i  egg 

sugar  2  tablespoonfuls  milk 

i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

Mix  and  sift  the  dry  ingredients.  Beat  the  egg  well, 
add  the  milk  and  turn  into  the  dry  ingredients.  Beat 
until  smooth,  then  add  the  cranberries  and  the  lemon 
juice.  Fry  in  deep  fat  according  to  the  general  directions 
for  fritters,  and  drain  on  crumpled  brown  paper.  Dust 
with  sifted  powdered  sugar,  and  serve  with  cranberry 
syrup. 

Graham  Drop  Fritters 

§  cupful  graham  flour  i  teaspoonful  salt 

§  cupful  bread  flour  2  tablespoonfuls   Barbadoes 
2i  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow-  molasses 

der  i  cupful  milk 

1  egg 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients;  stir  together  the  milk,  mo- 
lasses and  the  egg,  well-beaten.  Pour  into  the  first  mix- 
ture, beat  thoroughly  and  fry  in  deep  fat  according  to 
general  directions.  Drain  on  brown  paper.  Serve  with 
cheese  sauce  as  a  substantial  dish ;  for  dessert  with  melted 
jelly;  or  for  breakfast  with  maple  or  brown  sugar  syrup. 

Corn  Fritters 

ij  cupfuls  flour  i  egg 

2  teaspoonfuls  baking  powder          i  cupful  canned  corn  pulp 
\  teaspoonful  salt 


THE  FRYING  OF  FOOD  313 

Mix  together  the  dry  ingredients,  add  the  egg,  well- 
beaten  and  mixed  with  the  corn  pulp.  Fry  in  deep  fat 
according  to  the  general  directions  for  fritters  and  drain 
on  crumpled  paper. 

Clam  Fritters 

2§  cupfuls  flour  i  teaspoonful  salt 

4  teaspoonfuls    baking    pow-          i  egg 
der  i  pint  clams 

Clean  the  clams  and  cut  them  in  half-inch  pieces.  Mix 
together  the  dry  ingredients,  then  add  the  egg,  well- 
beaten  and  mixed  with  the  clams.  Fry  in  deep  fat  ac- 
cording to  the  general  directions  for  fritters. 

Ball  Fritters 

4  tablespoonfnls  butter  or  f  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

oleomargarine  Grating  lemon  rind 

\  cupful  boiling  water  2  eggs 

1  cupful  flour  Few  grains  mace 

Melt  the  butter  in  the  water,  then  add  the  lemon  juice 
and  flour,  cooking  over  a  slow  heat  until  the  mixture 
leaves  the  sides  of  the  pan  and  clings  to  the  spoon.  Cool, 
add  the  lemon  rind,  and  the  eggs  one  by  one,  then  drop  by 
teaspoonfuls  into  fat  hot  enough  to  brown  a  bit  of  bread 
in  sixty  seconds.  Serve  with  maple  syrup  or  caramel 
sauce. 

Sweet  Milk  Doughnuts 

f  cupful  sugar  ii  teaspoonfuls  salt 

2  eggs  and  i  egg  yolk  2!  teaspoonfuls  cream  of  tar- 
i  cupful  milk  tar 

2"  tablespoon fuls  butter  or   i          i  teaspoonful  soda 

tablespoonful  drippings  5  cupfuls  bread  flour 

i  teaspoonful  cinnamon 

Beat  the  eggs,  then  add  the  sugar,  creaming  well,  and 
the  milk.  Have  the  flour,  cinnamon,  soda  and  cream  of 
tartar  well-mixed  together,  and  pour  the  first  mixture  into 
it,  beating  well.  Add  the  butter,  melted,  then  take  out  a 
little  at  a  time,  toss  on  a  floured  board,  knead  slightlt,  roll 
to  one-quarter  inch  in  thickness  and  cut  into  rings.  Fry  in 
deep  fat  according  to  the  general  directions. 


314  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Sour  Milk  Doughnuts 

4i  cupfuls  bread  flour  i  teaspoonful   ginger 

ii  teaspoonfuls  salt  I  cupful  sugar 

i  teaspoonful  soda  i  cupful  rich  sour  milk 

i  teaspoonful  nutmeg  i  egg 

Mix  together  the  dry  ingredients,  add  the  sugar  and 
egg,  well-beaten  together,  and  the  sour  milk.  Mix  thor- 
oughly, toss  on  a  floured  board  and  knead  slightly.  Roll 
out  to  one-quarter  inch  thickness,  cut  in  rings  and  fry  in 
deep  fat  according  to  the  general  directions. 

Raised  Doughnuts  (From  Bread  Dough) 

3  cupfuls  bread  dough  2  eggs 

3  tablespoonfuls  melted  but-          i  teaspoonfnl  cinnamon 
ter  I  teaspoonful  nutmeg 

I  cupful  sugar 

When  the  dough  is  ready  to  be  formed  into  loaves,  add 
the  ingredients  and  blend  with  the  hand.  Let  rise  till 
doubled  in  bulk,  then  roll  into  a  thin  sheet  and  cut  into 
rings.  Let  stand  on  floured  board  till  doubled,  then  fry 
in  deep  fat,  according  to  the  general  directions.  Drain 
on  paper  and  roll  in  granulated,  or  sifted  powdered,  sugar. 

Raised  Doughnuts     (Mrs.  Kennedy) 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter   or  |  teaspoonful  salt 
oleomargarine                                 i  teaspoonful  nutmeg 

§  cupful  sugar  i  yeast  cake,  dissolved  in 

i  egg  £  cupful  tepid  water 

1  cupful  scalded  milk  4^  cupfuls  bread  flour 

Cool  the  milk  till  tepid.  Add  the  yeast  and  \\  cupfuls 
of  the  flour.  Let  rise  till  spongy,  then  add  the.  sugar, 
salt,  egg  and  nutmeg,  and  the  remaining  flour,  beating  it 
in  well.  Let  rise  three  hours,  cut  down,  turn  on  a  floured 
board,  roll  out,  shape,  let  rise  till  double  (about  one 
hour),  and  fry  in  deep  fat  according  to  general  direc- 
tions. Drain  on  paper,  and  roll  in  powdered  or  granu- 
lated sugar. 

-  Swedish  Timbales 

2  eggs  \  cupful  milk 

i  cupful  flour  i  teaspoonful  salt 

i  teaspoonful  sugar  i  tablespoonful  olive  oil 

Mix  in  the  order  given,  but  do  not  separate  the  eggs ; 


THE  FRYING  OF  FOOD  315 

beat  the  mixture  as  little  as  possible.  The  timbale  iron 
must  be  heated  in  the  kettle  of  deep  fat,  drain  it,  wipe  on 
clean  paper  and  dip  into  the  batter,  which  should  be  in 
a  large  cup  or  pitcher.  Hold  the  iron  there  till  a  coating 
of  the  batter  adheres  to  it,  then  put  it  back  in  the  fat  and 
cook  till  crisp  and  light  brown.  Drain  on  paper. 


CHAPTER  XII 

MEATS 
HOW  TO  BUY  MEATS 

ALL    MEASUREMENTS   ARE    LEVEL 

As  meat  plays  such  an  important  role  in  the  menus  of 
most  households,  every  housewife  should  have  a  thorough 
understanding  of  how  to  buy  meats,  not  only  that  she  may 
thus  be  able  to  spend  economically  but  also  that  she  may 
serve  the  most  wholesome  foods.  The  complaint  is  often 
made  that  meat  is  too  high,  but  the  butcher  is  seldom 
charging  more  than  a  reasonable  price.  His  cost  of  doing 
business  has  increased  rapidly  during  recent  years  —  he 
has  to  pay  higher  wages  as  well  as  deliver  his  packages, 
which  were  formerly  carried  home  by  the  purchasers. 
All  these  "  extras  "  count  and  if  we  demand  this  service  we 
must  be  prepared  to  share  our  part  of  the  cost. 

There  are  three  grades  of  meat  —  good,  second  best  and 
poor.  The  first  is  sold  mostly  to  hotels  and  clubs,  as  it  is 
very  heavy  and  expensive.  The  second  is  carried  in  first 
class  markets  and  is  of  the  same  quality  as  the  first  but 
from  lighter  cattle.  The  third  is  sold  only  in  the  cheap 
markets.  The  cheapest  grades  do  not  contain  so  much 
nourishment  as  the  better  beef,  for  low-priced  cattle  are 
usually  fed  on  brewers'  grains,  cotton-seed  meal  and  the 
like,  which  fatten  the  cattle  but  produce  soft,  flabby  flesh, 
which  shrinks  to  a  greater  extent  in  cooking  than  the  bet- 
ter grades.  Besides,  there  is  as  much  bone  in  a  poor  ani- 
mal as  in  a  fat  one,  so  that  in  buying  cheap  grades  one 
pays  for  a  larger  percentage  of  bone.  Good  beef  has  firm 
fat,  tinged  with  pink,  and  the  meat  is  interwoven  with 
threads  of  fat.  Poor  beef  has  a  very  yellow  fat  and  the 
meat  is  lean  and  scraggy,  and  even  the  porterhouse  is 
tough. 

316 


MEATS  317 

Meat  is  cut  in  different  ways  in  different  sections  of  the 
country,  but  the  underlying  principles  are  the  same.  A 
side  of  beef  is  always  divided  into  a  forequarter  and 
hindquarter,  the  latter  containing  the  loin,  from  which 
the  highest  priced  steaks  and  roasts  are  cut.  It  is  an 
easy  rule  to  remember  that  meat  is  most  expensive  in  the 
center  of  the  animal  and  cheaper  at  the  extremities,  for  the 
latter  are  toughened  through  muscular  action.  Most  peo- 
ple- do  not  like  the  cheap  cuts  because  they  are  unable  to 
make  them  tender  through  cooking,  and  they  therefore 
buy  steaks  and  roasts.  This  excess  demand  makes  steaks 
and  roasts  unduly  high  in  price  in  comparison  with  the 
food  value  which  they  furnish.  Most  people  overlook  the 
fact  that  most  of  the  inexpensive  cuts  have  little  waste, 
so  that  besides  costing  less  per  pound  the  meat  goes  twice 
as  far.  The  waste  from  a  two-pound  sirloin  steak,  for 
instance,  averages  about  three-quarters  of  a  pound.  In 
France,  all  cuts  of  beef  are  frequently  sold  at  one  price, 
because  it  is  almost  impossible  to  dispose  of  the  so-called 
better  cuts  on  account  of  their  greater  amount  of  waste. 

Too  many  housewives  buy  in  unnecessarily  small  quan- 
tities—  veal  cutlet  to-day,  a  small  roast  of  beef  to-mor- 
row, chops  after  that,  and  so  on  —  something  different  for 
every  day.  If  one  can  afford  to  do  so,  this  practice  may 
be  followed,  but  if  one's  means  are  limited,  it  is  far  better 
to  buy  in  quantities  sufficient  for  three  days  at  a  time. 
It  is  not  necessary  always  to  prepare  the  meat  the  same 
way,  for  the  butcher  will  gladly  cut  it  for  different  uses. 

Take  a  chuck  rib  weighing  fourteen  and  a  half  pounds 
as  an  illustration.  Properly  cut  this  piece  of  beef  would 
provide  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  soup  meat,  three 
pounds  of  beef  for  a  pot-roast,  a  five-pound  roast  from 
the  eye-piece,  and  four  pounds  of  bone  and  fat.  The 
bone  is  useful  for  soup  stock  and  the  fat  can  be  rendered 
for  cooking.  At  average  prices  the  housewife  would  save 
about  thirty-five  cents  by  buying  the  entire  chuck  rib. 

Most  of  the  corned  beef  comes  from  the  plate  —  part 
of  the  hind  quarter.  There  is  more  waste  to  the  cheaper 
cuts  of  corned  beef  than  to  those  of  higher  price,  because 
they  contain  more  bone  and  a  larger  proportion  of  fat. 
Five  pounds  of  corned  beef  from  the  navel,  when  boned, 
will  only  produce  two  and  three-quarter  pounds  of  clear 


318  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

meat,  so  that  the  actual  cost  is  more  than  if  the  best  cut 
had  been  bought  in  the  first  place. 

It  often  pays  to  corn  beef  at  home.  In  case  one  buys  a 
quantity  of  meat  at  a  time,  as  when  purchasing  a  chuck 
rib  or  the  aitch  bone  —  sold  in  the  east  —  part  of  it  can  be 
put  into  brine,  or,  if  one  wants  a  cheap  cut,  fresh  meat 
can  be  bought  —  the  butcher  will  bone  it  —  and  the 
bones  can  be  used  for  stock,  instead  of  throwing  them 
away,  as  is  done  when  they  have  been  corned. 

To  Corn  Beef 

To  corn  beef,  dissolve  rock  salt  in  water  until  it  will 
float  a  raw  potato.  Plunge  in  the  meat,  weight  it,  cover 
and  let  stand  in  a  cool  place  from  two  to  four  days,  ac- 
cording to  the  degree  of  saltness  desired. 

The  Cheaper  Cuts 

Brisket  is  equally  good  corned  or  fresh,  although  it 
contains  considerable  bone,  a  six-pound  piece  giving  three 
pounds  of  meat  to  pot-roast,  two  and  a  half  pounds  of 
bone  for  stock,  and  a  half  pound  of  fat  to  render  for 
cooking. 

A  good  cook  prepares  fresh  brisket,  slicing  it  when  it 
is  done,  and  pouring  over  the  stock  in  which  it  is  cooked, 
letting  the  meat  drink  it  up.  This  is  served  with  a  horse- 
radish sauce  and  plenty  of  mashed  potato,  sprinkled  with 
fried  onions.  Potato  pancakes  may  be  served  instead  of 
the  mashed  potato. 

Another  inexpensive  cut  is  flank  steak.  This  can  be 
scored  and  fried  and  served  with  a  tomato  sauce,  or  it  can 
be  made  into  "  blind  duck."  To  do  this  it  should  be 
stuffed  with  chopped  onions  and  potatoes,  well-seasoned 
with  salt,  pepper  and  sage,  tied  securely  and  braised.  Or 
it  can  be  used  for  beef  roulades,  with  vegetables,  in  a 
stew,  or  boiled  and  made  into  a  pie.  It  is  clear  meat  with 
no  waste,  when  well  trimmed. 

Flank  Fat  and  Kidneys 

Flank  fat  can  be  rendered  with  practically  no  waste 
and  sells  for  about  the  same  price  as  suet.  It  is  not 
economy  to  buy  very  cheap  fat,  for  it  contains  so  much 
meat  fiber  that  is  waste.  In  fact  it  always  pays  to  pur- 


MEATS  319 

chase  meats  that  are  well  trimmed,  at  a  higher  price  per 
pound  than  to  buy  cheaper  grades  that  contain  a  great 
deal  of  waste. 

Kidneys  are  an  inexpensive  article  and  they  may  appear 
on  the  table  in  a  variety  of  forms. 

The  Rump  and  Round 

The  rump  weighs  about  twelve  pounds  and  furnishes  a 
fine  pot-roast  or  corned  beef,  with  soup  stock  from  the 
bones. 

The  round  is  divided  into  two  parts,  the  top  and  bottom, 
which  are  generally  cut  up  into  steaks,  those  from  the  top 
being  the  best.  The  bottom  cuts,  however,  if  cut  from 
good  beef,  are  tender.  They  will  "  go  further  "  if  cooked 
en  casserole,  or  rolled  up  and  braised  like  a  "  blind  duck  " 
and  served  with  plenty  of  gravy.  A  thirty-pound  round 
cuts  up  into  about  twenty  pounds  of  steak,  the  balance 
going  into  chopped  meat  and  trimmings.  When  chopped 
meat  is  offered  for  sale  at  a  low  price,  it  almost  certainly 
contains  a  high  percentage  of  fat,  and  sometimes  a  great 
deal  of  water,  for  it  is  just  as  easy  to  "  plump  "  beef  as 
chicken  or  oysters.  It  is  more  economical  to  pay  a  little 
more  and  get  honest  meat.  If  he  butcher  will  not  let  you 
see  his  meat  chopped,  it  is  wise  to  grind  the  meat  at  home. 

The  Horseshoe  of  Beef 

The  horseshoe  is  a  small  piece  of  clear  meat  which 
weighs  about  two  pounds  and  a  half  and  which  makes  an 
excellent  pot-roast  or  stew. 

The  Leg  of  Beef 

The  leg  weighs  about  nineteen  pounds  and  contains 
about  five  and  a  half  pounds  of  meat  and  fourteen  pounds 
of  bone.  Thus  it  does  not  pay  to  buy  the  entire  piece,  as 
it  is  much  cheaper  to  purchase  the  clear  meat  with  as 
much  bone  as  is  needed.  This  meat  makes  an  excellent 
shank  stew,  which,  to  be  perfect,  should  be  accompanied 
by  marrow  balls. 

A  shin  cut  from  the  forequarter  can  also  be  used  in  a 
similar  way.  The  forequarter  chuck  is  not  cheap  as  it 
contains  so  much  bone,  the  amount  increasing  as  it  goes 


320  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

into  the  shoulder  blade,  but  it  makes  good  stew  or  boiled 
beef. 

Beef  Hearts,  Tripe  and  Liver 

Beef  hearts  are  rarely  kept  in  the  average  market  but 
they  furnish  a  good  food  at  low  cost.  They  average 
about  three  and  a  half  pounds  and  can  be  stuffed  and 
potted,  or  braised  with  vegetables.  They  also  make  ex- 
cellent mince  meat. 

Tripe  usually  sells  at  a  low  price  and  it  can  be  used  in 
many  ways.  Beef  liver  is  cheap,  too,  and,  if  the  outer 
membrane  is  stripped  off  and  the  veins  cut  out,  it  can  be 
scalded,  dipped  in  flour  and  fried  so  that  it  will  be  as  ten- 
der as  calves'  liver. 

Variations  in  Prices 

The  season  of  the  year  makes  considerable  difference 
in  the  price  of  meats.  From  May  to  October  the  round 
and  sirloin  cuts  are  more  in  demand  and,  therefore,  cost 
more.  Because  of  this  rib  roasts  drop  in  price,  especially 
as  few  housewives  cook  roasts  in  summer,  preferring 
steaks.  In  the  fall  corned  beef  jumps  in  price  because 
the  purchasers  do  not  know  that  it  can  be  boiled  and 
pressed  and  served  cold  in  summer  with  a  crisp  salad. 
Lamb  goes  up  from  March  to  May,  while,  if  spring  lamb 
is  late,  it  is  dear  until  July.  Then  is  the  time  for  the 
woman  who  has  to  be  economical  not  to  buy  lamb,  yet 
they  are  the  very  ones  who  do. 

Buying  and  Cutting  Lamb 

As  is  the  case  with  beef,  there  are  three  grades  of  lamb. 
Good  lamb  is  not  very  heavy.  If  the  leg  joints  are  stiff, 
the  lamb  is  fresh,  and  the  fat  should  be  firm  and  white. 
The  joints  of  fresh  lamb  can  be  easily  separated  to  show 
the  knuckle,  while  mutton  is  usually  splintered  at  the 
joint.  An  eight  and  a  half  pound  forequarter  will  fur- 
nish two  and  a  half  pounds  of  stew  meat,  one  and  a  quar- 
ter pounds  of  breast,  four  shoulder  chops,  which  are  ex- 
cellent either  pan--broiled  or  en  casserole,  and  two  pounds 
from  the  rack.  Besides  this  there  are  enough  trimmings 
for  a  barley  stew,  for  instance.  If  desired,  the  chuck,  or 
shoulder,  can  be  bought  separately  and  boned,  rolled  and 
dressed  for  roasting  or  braising;  or  the  chuck  and  the 


MEATS  321 

breast  can  be  purchased  together,  filled  with  a  bread 
dressing  and  braised,  or  the  shoulder  can  be  raised  off  for 
a  casserole,  the  four  chops  under  the  shoulder  cut  out, 
and  the  neck  and  bones  used  for  a  stew.  Even  a  small 
family  can  dispose  of  a  shoulder  of  lamb  in  this  way  — 
and  this  is  economical  purchasing  —  if  the  woman  of  the 
household  is  willing  to  cook. 

The  whole  hindquarter  of  lamb  weighs  about  eight 
and  a  quarter  pounds  and  furnishes  eight  loin  or  kidney 
chops,  a  six-pound  roast,  and  a  lamb  kidney,  besides  some 
trimmings. 

The  "  pluck "  includes  about  a  pound  and  a  half  of 
liver  and  a  half  pound  of  heart. 

Buying  and  Cutting  Veal 

Veal  is  divided  like  lamb  and  is  becoming  the  most 
expensive  of  all  meats.  The  shoulder  and  breast  may 
be  stuffed  with  a  bread  or  potato  and  onion  dressing. 
The  neck  is  used  for  stew  and  the  rump  for  pot-roasting 
or  braising.  The  leg  weighs  about  eleven  pounds  and 
contains  about  eight  pounds  of  solid  meat  and  three  of 
bone.  The  fillet  is  cut  from  the  leg  and  then  cut  up  for 
roasting  or  into  cutlets.  The  balance  is  used  for  stew  or 
casserole.  A  large  family  can  dispose  of  the  whole  leg  of 
veal,  but  as  comparatively  few  use  the  knuckle,  or  end  of 
the  leg,  the  butcher  is  compelled  to  charge  a  large  price 
for  the  cutlets  in  order  to  make  any  profit. 

Pork  Products 

Good  bacon  is  firm  and  does  not  cook  away,  because  it 
is  from  hogs  fattened  with  corn ;  hams  should  be  plump 
and  round.  Thin  hams  indicate  poorly  fed  animals. 
Shoulder  pork  chops  should  be  purchased  to  a  larger  ex- 
tent than  is  the  case,  as  they  average  four  cents  less  a 
pound  than  those  of  the  loin  and  contain  more  meat.  A 
loin  of  pork  for  roasting  averages  two  cents  a  pound  less 
than  when  cut  into  chops  and  contains  a  third  bone  waste. 
On  the  other  hand  a  fresh  shoulder  of  ham,  if  well  cut, 
is  a  cheaper  roast  and  may  be  boned  and  stuffed  to  good 
advantage,  while  a  fresh  ham,  although  it  is  heavy,  con- 
tains very  little  waste  and  is  delicious. 


322  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Poultry 

In  buying  chicken  or  other  poultry,  the  housewife 
should  always  demand  the  very  best  quality,  or  the  so- 
called  "  fatted  "  chicken,  for  in  the  end  it  is  the  cheapest. 
The  fatted  chicken  of  three  and  a  half  pounds,  for  in- 
stance, contains  as  much  meat  as  the  cheaper  grade  of 
four  and  a  half  pounds,  as  in  the  latter  the  bones  and 
waste  more  than  make  up  for  the  extra  pound  and  the 
meat  is  not  nearly  so  good. 

The  same  rule  applies  to  turkeys.  A  housewife  should 
never  over-buy,  that  is,  secure  more  than  she  realty  needs. 
This  is  a  mistake  which  most  people  make  and  the  result 
is  that  many  cannot  afford  to  have  turkey,  when  if  they 
would  buy  a  small  turkey  of  the  very  best  quality,  paying 
perhaps  a  few  cents  more  per  pound,  the  cost  would  really 
not  be  top  expensive  for  the  average  housewife.  In  most 
cases  where  a  woman  needs  a  five  pound  chicken  the  tur- 
key need  not  be  heavier  than  seven  or  eight  pounds,  as  it 
contains  more  meat  in  proportion  than  a  chicken. 

How  to  Know  Fresh  or  Young  Chickens 
In  a  young  chicken  of  good  quality  the  eyes  will  be 
bright  and  the  feet  smooth  and  rather  soft,  while  a  fowl, 
or  older  chicken,  will  have  rough  feet  and,  often,  spurs, 
and  the  eyes  will  be  dull.  By  opening  the  bill  and  smell- 
ing of  the  mouth,  one  can  determine  somewhat  the  fresh- 
ness of  a  bird.  Also  by  feeling  of  the  bone  on  the  under 
part  of  the  chicken  between  the  legs.  If  it  is  soft  and 
pliable  the  chicken  is  young  and  tender. 

Buying  on  the  Basis  of  Calories 

In  the  foregoing  pages  on  purchasing  the  terms 
"  cheap  "  and  "  inexpensive  "  have  been  used  to  designate 
foods  which  are  low  in  cost.  But  the  conception  of  food 
furnished  by  the  calorie  changes  the  meaning  of  the 
terms.  From  this  viewpoint  a  food  is  cheap  in  accord- 
ance with  the  number  of  calories  which  it  furnishes.  It 
may  be  said  once-  for  all  that  probably  few  households 
will  ever  purchase  all  their  foods  on  the  calorie  basis,  for 
taste  and  custom  will  be  the  leading  factors  in  determin- 
ing the  articles  which  appear  on  the  table.  The  applica- 
tion of  calories  to  purchasing,  however,  throws  light  on 


MEATS  323 

the  possibilities  of  economy  and  is  of  the  utmost  import- 
ance when  the  household  budget  is  limited,  as  purchasing 
on  this  basis  will  prevent  undernutrition  although  the 
same  amount  of  money  is  expended  as  when  the  foods 
were  bought  on  the  basis  that  the  lowest  cost  foods  were 
the  cheapest.  For  instance,  tripe  is  a  food  often  pur- 
chased by  the  poor  because  it  is  cheap,  but  the  figures 
show  that  at  the  prevailing  prices  only  from  thirty  to 
forty  calories  can  be  purchased  for  a  cent,  while  in  brisket 
of  beef  one  gets  over  fifty  calories  for  a  cent.  Pigs'  feet 
at  fourteen  cents  a  pound  give  but  twenty-six  calories 
for  a  cent,  while  turkey  at  forty  cents  a  pound  supplies 
the  same  number  of  calories  for  a  cent.  Yet  the  house- 
wife "  economizes  "  by  purchasing  tongue,  which  supplies 
but  twenty  odd  calories  for  a  cent  and  "  cannot  afford  " 
roast  lamb  which,  even  from  the  more  costly  hindquarter, 
furnishes  nearly  fifty  calories  for  a  cent. 

The  following  table  based  on  prices  current  for  one 
week,  indicate  the  value  of  foods  on  the  basis  of  calories. 
Of  course  as  prices  fluctuate  the  number  of  calories  would 
be  increased  or  diminished,  but  the  proportions  would 
remain  approximately  the  same. 

Calories  for  $0.0 1 

Article  of  Food  (one  cent) 

Porterhouse  steak 30 

Sirloin  steak  and  roast 26 

Rump  steak   22 

Brisket   of   beef 53 

Corned  beef   71 

Veal  cutlets   14 

Leg  of  veal 19 

Loin  of  veal 24 

Lamb,  f  orequarter    64 

Lamb,  hindquarter  45 

Lamb,  chops  36 

Mutton,  loin  63 

Mutton,   f  orequarter 68 

Pork   chops    61 

Bacon    90 

Tripe    30-40 

Pigs'  feet    26 

Liver 43 

Tongue    22 

Turkey 26 

Chicken,  broiled 7 

Fowl  26 


324  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Calories  for  $0.01 
Article  of  Food  (one  cent) 

Fish 

Cod  13 

Haddock    10 

Halibut    12 

Salt  mackerel 26 

Oysters  8 

Finnan  haddie 15 

Herring 62 

In  this  connection  it  is  worthy  of  note  that  the  ideal  of 
makers  of  rations  for  armies  and  institutions  is  one  hun- 
dred calories  for  one  cent,  this,  of  course,  including  all 
the  food. 


GENERAL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  COOKING  MEATS 

Broiled  tender  meat  is  the  most  digestible  of  any  way  in 
which  it  may  be  served,  if  properly  prepared.  The 
broiler  should  be  slightly  oiled  with  a  good  vegetable  oil 
or  butter,  and  the  meat  put  in  and  seared  at  once,  then 
turned  immediately  so  that  it  will  be  seared  on  the  other 
side  and  the  juices  retained.  It  should  be  turned  from 
time  to  time  during  the  cookery.  When  done,  the  meat 
should  present  a  slightly  puffy  appearance,  due  to  the 
distention  by  heat  of  the  encased  juices.  The  salt  or 
other  seasonings  should  be  added  after  the  meat  has  been 
broiled. 

Pan-Broiling 

Pan-broiling  may  be  adopted  when  it  is  not  possible  to 
broil  over  direct  heat.  In  this  case  a  heavy  skillet  should 
be  heated  until  smoking  hot,  and  the  meat  should  be  put  in 
without  any  extra  fat,  the  fat  from  the  edges  of  the  chops 
or  steak,  or  whatever  is  being  cooked,  giving  out  enough 
so  that  the  meat  will  not  stick.  Turn  the  meat  at  once, 
as  in  ordinary  broiling,  and  then  at  a  minute  or  two  in- 
tervals until  it  is  done. 

.    Oven  Roasting 

There  is  really  no  such  thing  now-a-days  as  the  roast- 
ing of  meat,  unless  it  is  cooked  before  an  open  fire,  or 
under  the  gas  flame.  Meat  is  usually  baked  in  the  oven, 
for  true  roasting  is  really  just  another  form  of  broiling, 


MEATS  325 

should  be  heated  at  first  to  425°  and  after  the  first 
fifteen  minutes  reduced  to  375°.  By  this  means  the  meat 
is  seared  at  once,  so  that  the  juices  cannot  escape,  and, 
as  in  the  case  of  broiled  meat,  the  roast  will  not  look  thin 
and  scraggy  when  done,  but  should  appear  a  bit  puffy. 
Salt  should  be  added  before  the  meat  is  put  on  to  cook, 
and  the  roast,  whatever  the  kind,  should  be  thoroughly 
sprinkled  with  flour,  some  being  allowed  to  fall  upon 
the  bottom  of  the  pan,  so  that  the  gravy  will  automatically 
thicken  itself.  Unless  a  double  roaster  is  used  the  meat 
should  be  basted  occasionally  with  a  little  hot  water,  in 
which  has  been  melted  a  teaspoonful  of  oleomargarine, 
butter  or  drippings  to  a  cupful  of  water.  If  a  double 
roaster  is  used,  a  little  water  should  be  put  in  the  bottom 
of  the  pan  as  soon  as  the  flour  is  browned. 

Roasting  Under  the  Gas  Flame 

To  roast  under  the  gas  flame  light  the  burners  five 
minutes  before  the  meat  is  to  be  cooked.  Put  the  meat  in 
a  dripping  pan,  and  dust  it  with  salt,  pepper  and  flour. 
Set  the  pan  on  the  broiler  three  notches  from  the  bottom 
of  the  oven,  reducing  the  gas  burners  half,  and,  as  soon 
as  the  meat  is  seared,  turn  it  over.  When  brown  on  all 
sides,  baste  every  ten  minutes  with  a  cupful  of  water  in 
which  has  been  dissolved  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  or 
oleomargarine.  The  time  of  cooking  depends  upon  the 
meat. 

Boiling 

So-called  "  boiled  meat "  is  one  of  the  most  digestible 
ways  in  which  meat  can  be  served,  yet  there  is  no  method 
less  understood.  The  meat  should  be  plunged  into  a  ket- 
tle containing  enough  boiling  water  almost  to  submerge 
it,  then  be  covered  closely,  set  on  the  back  of  the  range, 
and  allowed  to  simmer  until  tender.  Simmering  means  to 
keep  it  just  below  the  boiling  point.  When  half  done  it 
may  be  salted.  Meat  cooked  in  this  way  is  tender  enough 
to  be  cut  with  a  fork,  is  sweet  and  delicious,  and  will  be 
done  fully  an  hour  sooner  than  can  be  accomplished  with 
rapid  boiling.  Besides  all  this  there  is  less  shrinkage, 
therefore  more  meat. 


.326  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Stewing 

Stewed  meat  is  prepared  differently  from  boiled  meat. 
In  this  case  it  is  cut  into  small  pieces,  "  handsome  mouth- 
fuls  "  an  old  book  terms  it,  put  into  cold  water,  covered, 
and  brought  slowly  to  boiling  point.  It  is  then  allowed  to 
simmer  until  nearly  done,  when  the  vegetables  and  sea- 
sonings are  added.  Lastly  the  stew  is  thickened.  The 
reason  that  boiling  water  is  used  for  the  boiled  meat  is  to 
seal  or  "  sear  "  the  meat  pores  by  extreme  heat,  so  that 
the  meat  juices  may  be  preserved.  In  stewing,  cold  water 
is  used  so  that  the  slow  heat  will  draw  out  the  juices  and 
flavor. 

Pot-Roasting 

In  this  case  the  meat  is  seared  or  browned  all  over  in 
drippings  and  is  then  placed  in  a  deep  kettle  containing  a 
few  diced  vegetables  as  onions,  carrots,  etc.,  with  water 
to  one-third  cover,  and  allowed  to  simmer  till  tender, 
It  is  most  important  that  it  be  closely  covered,  for  every 
bit  of  escaped  odor  means  that  just  so  much  savor  is  lost 
from  the  meat.  If  necessary,  weight  on  the  cover  with 
a  flat-iron  or  brick. 

Braising 

Braising  is  the  intermediary  process  between  pot-roast- 
ing and  roasting.  To  accomplish  this  the  meat  is  first 
browned  in  hot  beef  drippings,  then  placed  on  a  thick  bed 
of  vegetables  in  a  kettle  containing  a  small  amount  of 
water.  This  is  covered,  set  in  the  oven,  and  cooked  until 
tender,  turning  once  during  the  process. 

En  Casserole 

Cooking  en  casserole  is  a  combination  of  stewing  and 
braising.  In  this  case  the  meat  is  usually  browned,  then 
put  into  the  casserole  with  vegetables,  rice,  crumbs,  or 
macaroni,  water  or  stock  covered,  and  slowly  cooked  in 
the  oven  until  tender.  It  should  not  boil. 

Making  Gravy 

Enough  flour  should  be  sprinkled  on  the  bottom  of  the 
roasting  pan  to  thicken  the  amount  of  gravy  that  is  de- 
sired. The  proportion  is  a  tablespoonful  and  a  quarter 


RICE  WITH  ONION  AND  PEPPERS  EN  CASSEROLE 


CASSEROLE  OF  LIMA  BEANS  AND  BEEF 


MEATS  327 

of  flour  to  each  cupful  of  stock.  This  flour  should  be 
slightly  browned  before  the  water  is  added  to  the  pan, 
and  if  in  the  basting  the  flour  is  scraped  up  it' will  grad- 
ually mix  so  that  with  the  removal  of  the  excess  fat  and 
addition  of  a  very  little  liquid  the  gravy  will  be  made. 
However,  in  making  lamb  or  pork  gravy  it  will  be  neces-N 
sary  to  pour-  off  a  great  deal  of  the  fat,  and  considerable 
water  will  have  to  be  added.  If  the  liquid  is  evaporated 
to  such  an  extent  that  there  is  not  enough  left  for  gravy, 
which,  by  the  way,  will  not  occur  if  a  little  is  added  from 
time  to  time  during  the  cooking  —  scrape  up  the  drip- 
pings in  the  pan  with  a  spoon.  If  some  more  flour  is  to 
be  added,  stir  it  directly  into  these  drippings,  working 
quickly,  and  using  a  wire  whisk.  Then  gradually  pour 
in  the  water,  which  should  be  boiling.  If  this  is  done 
properly,  there  will  be  no  necessity  for  straining  the 
gravy.  If  desirable  to  make  it  of  a  dark  color,  add  a 
drop  or  two  of  "  Kitchen  Bouquet,"  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste,  or  any  other  seasonings  should  then  be  added. 
Good  gravy  should  not  be  greasy,  but  smooth  and  par- 
take of  the  flavor  of  the  meat. 

Aspic  Jelly 

The  easiest  way  to  make  aspic  jelly  when  there  is  bouil- 
lon or  consomme  on  hand  is  to  heat  a  pint  of  the  liquid, 
and  add  to  it  a  half  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  granulated  gelatine  dissolved  in  a  little  cold 
water.  Pour  into  a  shallow  pan  and  let  stiffen.  Cut  in 
cubes  and  save  as  a  garnish  for  cold  meats  or  salads. 

In  case  there  is  no  good  soup  stock  a  quick  aspic  may 
be  made  by  using  the  same  proportions  of  canned  con- 
somme and  vinegar  or  by  boiling  a  pint  of  water  with  a 
half  teaspoonful  of  pickle  spice  and  the  vinegar,  adding 
two  bouillon  cubes  and  the  gelatine  and  finishing  as 
directed. 

BEEF 

Roast  Beef 

Wipe  the  meat  with  a  damp  cloth ;  dust  with  salt  and 
pepper  and  place  on  a  rack  in  the  dripping  pan,  or 
directly  on  the  bottom  of  a  double  roaster  if  one  is  used. 


328  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Dredge  the  meat  with  flour,  allowing  about  three  table- 
spoonfuls  to  fall  upon  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Set  the 
meat  in  a  hbt  oven,  and  put  on  the  lid,  if  the  double  roaster 
is  used,  and  let  it  stand  until  seared  all  over  so  the  juices 
may  be  retained,  and  until  the  flour  has  become  a  little 
brown.  Then  reduce  the  heat  and  bake  the  meat  until 
tender.  If  a  dripping  pan  is  used,  baste  the  meat  every 
ten  minutes  with  hot  water  containing  a  little  butter  or 
beef  drippings,  but  if  a  double  roaster  is  used,  pour  in 
water  barely  to  cover  the  bottom  and  it  will  not  be  neces- 
sary to  baste  the  meat.  To  roast  beef  rare  allow  from 
eight  to  ten  minutes  to  the  pound;  if  well  done,  from 
eighteen  to  twenty  minutes  per  pound. 

Beef  Roasted  Under  the  Gas  Flame 

See  general  directions  for  roasting  by  this  method  and 
allow  fifteen  minutes  to  the  pound. 

Braised  Beef 

3  pounds  lower  round  of  i  cupful  diced  carrot 

beef  i  cupful  diced  turnip 

2  tablespoonfuls  beef  drip-  i  cupful  diced  onion 

pings  J  cupful  diced  celery  (op- 

2  teaspoonfuls  salt  tional) 

i  teaspoonful  pepper  i  teaspoonful  pickle  spice 

Flour 

Sprinkle  the  meat  with  the  salt  and  pepper,  dredge  the 
flour  and  brown  in  the  drippings.  Transfer  to  a  large 
casserole,  arrange  the  vegetables  around  and  on  top  of  it, 
sprinkle  on  the  spice,  add  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  boiling 
water,  cover  closely  and  bake  for  four  hours.  Serve  with 
a  sauce  made  from  the  liquid  remaining  in  the  casserole. 

Plain  Boiled  Beef 

Plunge  the  meat  into  rapidly-boiling,  salted  water,  then 
reduce  the  heat  and  let  the  meat  simmer  very  gently  until 
done.  This  will  take  about  four  hours  for  a  five-pound 
piece  of  round,  or  -fresh  brisket.  The  meat  should  be  so 
tender  that  it  almost  falls  to  pieces.  Drain  well,  and 
serve  with  horseradish  sauce,  a  garnish  of  shredded  let- 
tuce and  slices  of  sweet  pickles,  or  sliced  hard-cooked 
eggs.  Or  garnish  with  hard-cooked  eggs  and  serve  with 


MEATS  t      329 

a  French  dressing  made  of  olive  oil  and  tarragon  vinegar 
and  seasoned  with  onion  juice  or  onion  salt. 

Beef  a  la  Mode 

5  pounds  round  of  beef  i  teaspoonful  mace 

3  cupfuls  water  I  slice   onion 

1  cupful  vinegar  I  slice  carrot 

2  tablespoonfuls  salt  2  slices  lemon 
i  teaspoonful  peppercorns  6  cloves 

\  tablespoonful  poultry   sea-          2  sprigs  parsley 
son  ing 

Put  all  the  ingredients  together  except  the  meat.  Boil 
up  once  and  then  simmer  for  thirty  minutes.  Strain  over 
the  meat.  Cover,  and  let  stand  for  twenty-four  hours, 
turning  occasionally.  Then  remove  the  meat,  drain  and 
sear  all  over  in  beef  drippings,  together  with  three  slices 
of  lemon,  half  cover  with  boiling  water  containing  \  tea- 
spoonful  salt  and  the  strained  marinade,  drained  from  the 
meat,  and  simmer  gently  until  the  meat  is  tender  —  about 
four  hours.  Serve  with  a  sauce  made  of  the  thickened 
liquid  and  garnished  with  slices  of  lemon,  potato  or  rice 
croquettes  and  small  boiled  onions. 

Beef  Smothered  with  Onions 

1  dozen  small-sized  onions  Beef  drippings 
5  pounds  round,  or  sticking          Salt  and  pepper 

piece,  of  beef 

Sear  the  meat  in  the  drippings  until  brown.  Then  re- 
move. Dust  the  meat  well  with  salt  and  pepper ;  place  it 
on  a  rack  in  a  kettle,  pile  the  onions  on  top  and  add  one 
cupful  of  water,  or  just  enough  to  keep  the  meat  from 
sticking.  A  closely-covered  heavy  kettle  should  be  used. 
Cook  until  very  tender,  replenishing  the  water  to  keep  it 
always  the  original  amount;  this  will  take  from  four  to 
five  hours.  Serve  with  gravy  made  from  the  liquid  left  in 
the  pan. 

Jellied  Beef 

5  pounds    sticking    piece    of          I  cupful  stock 
beef  i  tablespoonful  vinegar 

2  cupfuls  boiling  stock  2  teaspoonfuls  salt 

4  tablespoonfuls   granulated  J  teaspoonful  pepper 

gelatine,  dissolved  in  i  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

Simmer  the  meat  till  tender,  in  water  to  half  cover  — 


330  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

about  four  hours.  Chop  fine,  add  the  softened  gelatine 
to  the  boiling  stock,  season  and  stir  until  dissolved.  Add 
to  the  meat,  pour  into  two  bread  pans,  wet  in  cold  water, 
and  press  into  shape.  Chill  and  slice. 

Spiced  Jellied  Beef 

5  pounds  shin  of  beef,  thick  Sage 

portion  Thyme 

Salt  Mace 
Pepper 

Simmer  the  meat  gently  till  it  falls  to  pieces  and  cut 
from  the  bone.  Reduce  the  liquid  to  one  cupful,  chop  the 
meat  fine  and  season  to  taste.  Add  the  liquor  and  pack 
into  a  bread  pan,  weighting  it  down.  Let  stand  over  night 
to  stiffen,  and  serve  in  thin  slices  with  potato  salad. 

Corned  Beef  or  a  "  Boiled  Dinner  " 

Rinse  the  corned  beef  in  cold  water,  tie  or  skewer  into 
shape,  cover  with  cold  water,  and  heat  slowly  to  boiling 
point;  remove  any  scum  and  simmer  the  meat  until  ten- 
der, about  four  hours  for  a  five-pound  piece.  Remove 
from  the  water,  keep  hot  and  cook  the  potatoes  and  tur- 
nips in  the  liquid.  The  potatoes  should  be  left  whole  and 
the  turnips  should  be  sliced  crosswise.  Cook  the  carrots, 
cabbage,  beets,  etc.,  apart  in  some  of  the  corned  beef 
water,  allowing  one  hour  for  the  boiling  of  the  pared  car- 
rots, one  hour  for  the  cabbage,  one  hour  for  new  beets  — 
four  hours  for  old  ones.  Serve  on  a  very  large  platter, 
the  meat  in  the  center  and  the  vegetables  grouped  around 
it.  Garnish  with  parsley. 

Boiled  Pickled  Beef  Tongue 

Wipe  the  tongue,  place  in  a  kettle  containing  cold  water 
to  half  cover,  and  bring  slowly  to  boiling  point.  Remove 
the  scum  and  simmer  the  tongue  until  tender,  about  two 
and  one-half  hours,  or  when  the  skin  curls  back.  Half 
cool  in  the  water,  then  remove  the  outer  skin  and  bones 
before  it  is  cold. 

Beef  Tongue,  German  Style 

Cook  a  fresh  beef  tongue  until  tender,  and  remove  the 
skin  when  half  cooled.  Prepare  a  sauce  as  follows : 


MEATS  33i 

1  cupful  vinegar  Few  grains  salt 

2i  cupfuls  water  3  tablespoonfuls  flour 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar  i  tablespoonful  butter 
•I  cupful  raisins 

Put  the  first  four  ingredients  together ;  add  a  little  salt, 
thicken  with  the  flour  and  butter  rubbed  together,  and 
boil  ten  minutes.  Cut  the  meat  in  slices;  pour  over  the 
sauce  and  garnish  the  dish  with  fried  egg  plant  or  summer 
squash,  or  French  fried  sweet  potatoes. 

Potted  Beef  Tongue 

I  fresh  beef  tongue  Beef  drippings 

I  cupful  carrots,   cubed  Sprig  of  parsley 

i  cupful  celery,  minced,  or  Bit  of  bay  leaf 

\  teaspoonful  celery  seed  Thyme 

I  cupful  turnips   (diced)  Boiling  water  or  stock 

Salt  and  pepper 

Trim  a  fresh  beef  tongue.  Prepare  the  carrots,  celery, 
and  turnips  and  brown  with  the  tongue  in  the  drippings ; 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  a  sprig  of  parsley,  the  bay 
leaf  and  thyme  and  then  place  in  a  crock,  or  casserole,  the 
vegetables  below  and  over  the  meat.  Add  boiling  water 
or  stock  to  touch  the  bottom  of  the  meat,  and  simmer  very 
gently  for  two  and  one-half  hours.  Partially  cool  the 
tongue,  remove  the  skin,  and  serve  hot  with  a  vegetable 
gravy  made  of  the  residue  in  the  crock ;  or  on  a  bed  of 
spinach. 

Jellied  Tongue 

I  pickled  beef  tongue  Bay  leaf 

2\  tablespoonfuls   granulated  3  hard-cooked  eggs 

gelatine  6  cucumber  pickles,  sliced 

i  quart    boiling    clear,    well-  thin 

seasoned  stock  2  tablespoonfuls  capers 

\  cupful  celery,  if  convenient  Salt  and  pepper 
\  teaspoonful  pickling  spice 

Boil  the  tongue  until  it  is  very  tender,  seasoning  the 
stock  highly  with  salt,  pepper,  bay  leaf,  and  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  of  pickle  spice.  Then  remove  the  skin  from 
the  tongue  and  return  it  to  the  water  in  which  it  was 
cooked,  to  cool  partly.  Trim  off  the  inedible  portions, 
remove  any  globules  of  fat  that  may  have  adhered  and 
cut  the  tongue  in  thin  slices.  In  the  meantime  cover 
the  gelatine  with  cold  water,  and,  after  letting  it  stand  for 


332  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

five  minutes,  add  it  to  the  boiling  stock,  which  should  be 
cleared  and  free  from  fat.  Pour  a  little  of  this  mixture 
into  a  round  mould,  or  bowl,  and,  when  it  is  slightly  set, 
dispose  on  this  a  design  of  hard-cooked  eggs,  fastening  it 
in  place  with  a  few  drops  of  the  jelly  mixture.  Further 
decorate  with  thin  slices  of  the  pickle  overlapping.  Then 
fill  the  mould  with  the  tongue,  thinly,  sliced,  "and  the  egg 
and  seasoning  arranged  in  layers ;  pour  the  gelatine  mix- 
ture in  to  fill  these  spaces  and  let  stand  until  set.  Un- 
mould  and  serve  garnished  with  cress  and  hard-cooked 
egg.  If  desired,  the  egg  and  pickle,  etc.,  may  be  en- 
tirely omitted,  in  which  case  it  is  a  quick  matter  to  pre- 
pare the  dish. 

Brown  Beef  Stew 

3  pounds  shin  of  beef  2  quarts  water 

2  onions  I  green   pepper    (if   conven- 

1  carrot  ient) 

2  cupfuls   sliced  potatoes  Salt  and  pepper 
I  white  turnip 

Remove  as  much  meat  as  possible  from  the  bone,  and 
cut  it  in  small  pieces.  Crack  the  bone,  taking  care  to  re- 
move all  the  splinters.  Brown  both  the  meat  and  bone  in 
beef  drippings,  and  add  the  onion  cut  in  rings;  fry  the 
latter  to  a  delicate  brown,  and  add  the  water  (which 
should  be  cold),  and  the  vegetables.  Bring  slowly  to 
boiling  point,  and  simmer  until  the  meat  is  tender  —  abou^ 
three  hours.  Remove  the  bones,  take  off  any  meat  adher- 
ing to  them,  and  remove  the  fat  from  the  broth.  Then 
add  the  potatoes,  which  should  be  parboiled  for  five 
minutes,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  cook  until 
the  potatoes  are  tender.  Thicken,  just  before  they  are 
done,  with  flour  dissolved  in  water  —  a  scant  half  table- 
spoonful  to  each  cup  of  broth.  Serve  on  a  deep  platter, 
with  buttered  spaghetti,  noodles  or  dumplings. 

Casserole  of  Beef 

3  pounds    beef,    from    chuck          i$  cupfuls  spaghetti  broken 
or  round  in  small  pieces 

i  cupful  carrots,  chopped  2  teaspoonfuls  salt 

i  cupful   turnips,    chopped  \  teaspoonful  pepper 

$  cupful  onions,  chopped  Boiling  water 
Drippings 


MEATS  333 

Cut  the  meat  in  pieces  suitable  for  serving.  Brown  in 
the  drippings  with  the  vegetables,  then  place  in  a  casserole 
together  with  the  seasonings  and  spaghetti.  Cover  with 
boiling  water,  and  bake  gently  from  three  to  four  hours. 

Short  Ribs  of  Beef  en  Casserole 

3  pounds  short  ribs  of  beef  I  teaspoonful  sugar 
6  onions  i  pint  tomatoes 

I  carrot  i  cupful  brown  rice 

4  tablespoonfuls  beef  drip-  Grating  of  nutmeg 
pings  Salt  and  pepper 

Melt  the  beef  drippings,  fry  the  onions  slightly  and  add 
the  beef  to  brown  it.  Arrange  in  a  casserole  in  layers 
with  the  carrot,  chopped,  the  rice,  tomatoes  and  season- 
ings; cover  with  boiling  water  and  bake  from  three  to 
four  hours  in  a  slow  oven.  The  water  should  be  replen- 
ished as  needed  —  although  the  dish  should  be  only  moist 
—  not  soupy  —  when  done. 

Curried  Beef  en  Casserole 

3  pounds  bottom  round  beef  i  cupful  sliced  onion 

6  tablespoonfuls  flour  3  cupfuls  beef  stock 

i£  teaspoonfuls  curry  pow-  i£  tablespoonfuls  vinegar 

der  i4  teaspoonfuls  salt 

6  tablespoonfuls  beef  drip-  i  cupful  grape  juice 

pings 

Cut  the  meat  in  two-inch  cubes  and  roll  in  the  flour  and 
curry  until  well  mixed.  Melt  the  drippings  in  a  frying 
pan,  add  the  onion  and  cook  till  yellowed,  then  brown  the 
meat.  Add  any  remaining  flour,  toss  about,  turn  in  the 
stock,  let  boil  up  once,  transfer  to  a  casserole,  cover  and 
cook  slowly  for  two  and  one-half  hours.  Season.  Add 
the  vinegar  and  grape  juice  just  before  serving. 

Casserole  of  Lima  Beans,  with  Beef 

I  pint  dried  lima  beans  I  teaspoonful  pepper 

i  teaspoonful  soda  2  onions 

i  pound  stew  beef — chuck  or          i  cupful  stewed  tomatoes 

round  3  tablespoonfuls  flour 

i£  teaspoonfuls  salt  2  tablespoonfuls  drippings  or 

Few  grains  mace  bacon  fat 
Boiling  water 

Soak  the  beans  over  night,  drain,  cover  with  fresh  boil- 
ing water,  add  the  soda  and  parboil.  Drain  again.  Cut 


334  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

the  beef  in  inch  cubes,  brown  it  with  the  onions  in  the 
drippings  and  roll  in  the  flour  and  seasoning.  Place  in 
a  casserole  in  layers  with  the  beans  and  tomatoes  alternat- 
ing. Barely  cover  with  boiling  water  and  cook  two  and 
one-half  hours  in  a  slow  oven,  replenishing  the  water  if 
necessary. 

Broiled  Steak 

Trim  off  the  superfluous  fat.  With  some  of  the  fat  rub 
the  broiler ;  and  then  broil  the  steak  over  a  clear  fire,  turn- 
ing every  ten  seconds  for  the  first  minute,  to  sear  the  sur- 
face so  that  the  juices  will  not  escape.  After  this  turn 
occasionally  until  well-cooked  on  both  sides.  Steak  cut 
one  inch  thick  will  take  from  five  to  six  minutes,  if  liked 
rare,  and  from  eight  to  ten  minutes  if  well  done.  Remove 
to  a  hot  platter,  spread  sparingly  with  butter,  or  oleomar- 
garine, and  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper. 

Pan-Broiled  Steak 

Wipe  the  steak  with  a  damp  cloth.  Heat  a  frying  pan 
smoking  hot,  place  the  steak  in  it,  and  turn  at  once,  so  that 
it  will  be  seared  all  over.  Turn  every  few  seconds  until 
done  —  five  to  six  minutes  for  a  steak  one  inch  thick, 
when  desired  rare;  from  eight  to  ten  if  well  done. 
Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  spread  with  bits  of  butter 
or  oleomargarine  and  set  in  the  oven  to  become  hot.  A 
very  little  hot  water  may  be  added  to  the  drippings  in  the 
pan,  allowed  to  boil,  and  be  poured  around  the  steak. 

Planked  Steak 

Wipe,  remove  extra  fat  and  pan-broil  a  boned  porter- 
house, or  short  rump  steak,  cut  one  and  one-half  inches 
thick,  for  seven  minutes.  Then  place  on  a  buttered  plank 
and  surround  with  Duchess  potatoes  put  through  a  pastry 
bag  and  tube,  brush  this  over  with  beaten  egg,  diluted 
with  milk,  and  place  in  the  oven  to  brown. 

Garnish  with  sauted  mushrooms,  stuffed  peppers,  car- 
rot and  beet  balls,  cauliflower  with  mousseline  sauce, 
string  beans  and  Bermuda  onions. 

Round  Steak  Italian 

Purchase  round  steak  cut  one  and  one-half  inches  thick. 
Pound  till  one  inch  thick,  sprinkle  with  a  tablespoonful 


MEATS  335 

of  olive  oil  and  a  few  drops  of  vinegar,  cover  and  let 
stand  for  a  few  hours.  Then  broil  as  usual.  This  treat- 
ment will  make  the  fiber  tender. 

Braised  Stuffed  Steak 

2  pounds   whole   slice   round  8  small  onions 
steak  cut  4  inch  thick  Boiling  water 
2  cupfuls  stale  bread  crumbs  2  .tablespoonfuls  beef  drip- 
Salt  and  pepper  pings 
2  tablespoonfuls  melted  but-  \  teaspoonful  poultry  sea- 
ter  soning 

Trim  the  meat  into  oblong  shape.  Make  a  dressing 
of  the  crumbs,  butter  and  poultry  seasoning,  adding  boil- 
ing water  to  moisten  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Spread 
over  the  meat.  Roll  up  like  jelly  roll  and  tie  in  position. 
Melt  the  drippings  in  a  frying  pan,  and  brown  the  meat 
all  over.  Transfer  to  a  casserole,  add  the  onions  and 
seasonings,  pour  in  water  to  half  cover,  and  bake  gently 
in  the  oven  until  the  meat  is  tender,  about  two  hours. 
Serve  with  a  gravy  made  from  the  liquid  left  in  the  cas- 
serole. 

Potted  Steak 

2i  pounds  bottom  round  \  teaspoonful  pepper 

steak  i  cupful  tomato  juice 

6  onions,  medium  size  2  cupfuls  green  peas 

i  cupful  diced  turnips  I  teaspoonful  salt 

Cut  the  steak  in  pieces  suitable  for  serving,  dip  in  flour 
and  brown  well  in  drippings.  Add  the  onions,  turnips, 
tomato  juice  and  seasonings,  and  barely  cover  with  boil- 
ing water.  Simmer  until  tender,  about  two  and  one-half 
hours,  replenishing  the  water,  if  necessary,  and  serve  gar- 
nished with  the  peas. 

Swiss  Steak 

2\  pounds  round  steak,  cut  2  Bacon  fat 

inches  thick  6  onions. 

I  cupful  flour  I  cupful  button  mushrooms 

\\  cupfuls  sifted  canned  to-  \\  teaspoonful  salt 

mato  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Put  the  steak  on  a  board,  and  pound  in  as  much  flour 
as  it  will  take  up,  probably  the  three-fourths  cupful  desig- 
nated. Sear  the  meat  on  both  sides  in  a  frying  pan, 
transfer  to  a  casserole  or  earthen  baking  dish,  cover  with 


336  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

boiling  water  and  the  tomato.  Peel  the  onions,  and  place 
around  the  meat.  Add  the  mushrooms  and  seasonings 
and  let  simmer  about  two  hours. 

Beefsteak  Pie 

2  pounds  round  steak  Thyme 

I  lamb's  kidney,  parboiled  Bit  of  bay  leaf 

I  onion,  minced  2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

£  tablespoonful  parsley,  i  cupful  boiling  water 

minced  Flour 

1  teaspoon  ful  pepper  Salt  and  pepper 
Short  biscuit  crust 

Cut  the  steak  in  thin  strips,  dust  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  roll  it  in  flour.  Dice  the  kidney,  and  roll  the  bits  in 
flour.  Arrange  the  two  meats  in  alternate  layers  in  a 
deep  baking  dish,  sprinkling  the  seasonings  and  onion  in 
between.  Then  pour  over  the  boiling  water,  which 
should  moisten  it.  If  there  is  not  enough  water  to  do 
this,  add  a  little  more  as  judgment  may  dictate.  Dot 
with  butter.  Cover  with  the  crust,  which  should  be 
slashed  to  allow  the  steam  to  escape,  and  bake  for  two 
hours  in  a  very  slow  oven. 

Beef  Birds 

2  pounds   any  cheap   cut   of          Grating  lemon  rind 
steak  Boiling  water 

1  pound  bacon  or  salt  pork,          Salt  and  pepper 
sliced  thin  4  cupful  rich  milk 

Flour 

Cut  the  steak  in  two-inch  squares,  then  pound  until  thin. 
Lay  a  small  strip  of  the  bacon  or  pork  on  each  piece,  roll 
up  and  skewer  with  a  toothpick.  Dust  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  dredge  with  flour.  Saute  (fry)  lightly  in  bacon 
fat,  transfer  to  a  casserole,  add  the  lemon  rind,  and  partly 
cover  with  boiling  water.  Let  cook  gently  till  almost  ten- 
der (about  two  hours),  season,  thicken,  if  necessary,  and 
add  the  milk.  Serve  on  toast  in  a  border  of  mashed 
potatoes  or  brown  rice. 

Chili  Con  Carne 

2  pounds  round  or  vein  steak          3  tablespoonfuls  flour 

2  pods  dried  Chili  peppers  i  clove  garlic,  minced 

3  slices  salt  pork  Salt  to  taste 
3  tablespoonfuls  chili  powder 


MEATS  337 

Try  out  the  fat  from  the  salt  pork.  Cut  the  steak  in 
small  pieces  and  brown  in  the  salt  pork  fat ;  add  to  this  the 
flour  and  garlic.  In  the  meantime  discard  the  seeds  from 
the  pepper  pods,  soak  the  latter  in  a  pint  of  warm  water 
until  soft,  then  scrape  out  the  pulp  into  the  water  and 
discard  the  skins.  Add  this  liquid  to  the  meat  and  sim- 
mer for  about  two  hours,  or  until  the  meat  falls  to  pieces. 
Hot  water  may  be  added  as  needed,  though  con  carne 
should  not  be  soupy.  Serve  with  boiled  uncoated  rice. 

Tenderloins  —  Stanley 

6  small  tenderloins  of  steak          2  bananas  (baked  or  fried) 

1  cupful  horseradish  sauce  i  quart  mashed  potato 
6  stuffed  baked  peppers 

Pan-broil  the  tenderloins ;  place  in  the  oven  to  keep  hot, 
and  make  a  gravy  of  the  drippings  in  the  frying  pan.  Ar- 
range the  meat  on  a  hot  planter.  Place  a  tablespoonf  ul  of 
the  sauce  on  each  piece,  surmount  with  a  third  of  a  baked 
or  fried  banana,  and  garnish  the  platter  with  the  peppers 
and  the  mashed  potato,  either  in.  fluffy  spoonfuls,  or 
shapped  into  cones  with  an  ice-cream  scoop,  and  dusted 
with  powdered  parsley. 

Hamburg  Steak 

2  pounds  ground  steak  (from          4  teaspoonful  pepper 
bottom  round)  £  cupful  soft  bread  crumbs 

£  cupful  sliced  onion  2  tablespoonfuls  drippings 

I  teaspoonful  salt 

Fry  the  onion  till  yellowed  in  the  drippings.  Add  to 
the  steak,  crumbs  and  seasonings,  mixing  well  together. 
Return  to  the  frying  pan,  and  cook  slowly  ten  minutes ; 
then  invert  into  a  second  frying  pan,  or  onto  a  plate,  and 
then  back  into  the  first  pan,  and  brown  the  other  half. 
Serve  very  hot  with  gravy  made  of  the  drippings  in  the 
pan. 

Baked  Macaroni  Hamburg 

£  pound  macaroni  or  spa-  2  or  3  onions  (minced) 

ghetti  Salt  and  pepper 

I  can  of  tomatoes  Grated  cheese 
I  pound  hamburg  steak 

Boil  the  macaroni.  Drain  and  place  a  layer  in  the 
bottom  of  a  well-oiled  baking  dish.  Sprinkle  this  with 


338  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

some  of  the  Hamburg  steak,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  bits 
of  beef  drippings  or  any  other  fat  at  hand,  then  the  onion, 
and  lay  on  the  canned  tomato,  and  some  grated  cheese. 
Continue  in  this  way  until  all  is  used,  and  bake  in  a  mod- 
erate oven  for  an  hour. 

Chopped  Beef,  Italian 

ii  pounds  chopped  beef  £  teaspoonful  Worcestershire 

1  green  pepper,  minced  sauce 

2  onions,  minced  2  tablespoonfuls  drippings 
Salt  and  pepper  Tomato  conserve  or  catsup 

Fry  the  onions  and  pepper  in  the  drippings.  Then  mix 
with  the  meat,  seasoning '  well,  and  cook  as  Hamburg 
steak,  or  shape  into  flat  cakes.  Just  before  serving, 
spread  lightly  with  Italian  tomato  conserve  and  a  little 
butter,  and  let  stand  in  the  oven  to  re-heat. 

Hamburg  Roast  with  Macaroni 

2  pounds  round  steak  i  cupful  hot  water  stock  or 

2  ounces  beef  fat  milk 

i  teaspoonful  salt  i  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

i  teaspoonful  pepper  i  beaten  egg 

i$  tablespoonfuls  flour  i  cupful  sifted  canned  to- 

i  cupful  cooked  macaroni  mato 

i  cupful  bread  crumbs 

Grind  the  meat  and  fat.  Cook  the  bread  crumbs  in  the 
hot  liquid  until  pasty,  add  to  the  meat,  and  stir  in  the  sea- 
sonings and  egg.  Shape  into  an  oblong  loaf.  Roll  in 
crumbs  and  set  in  a  dripping-pan  in  a  hot  oven.  When 
well-browned,  reduce  the  heat  and  cook  forty  minutes. 
Make  a  gravy  from  the  drippings  in  the  pan  by  stirring 
into  them  one  and  one-half  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and 
adding  gradually  the  tomato.  Let  boil  and  stir  in  the 
macaroni.  Let  stand  to  become  very  hot,  pour  around  the 
loaf  and  serve. 

Kidneys,  Creole  Style 

2*  beef  kidneys  i  cupful    boiling   water    or 

4  tablespoonfuls  flour  stock 

4  tablespoonfuls  bacon  fat  li  teaspoonfuls  salt 

1  cupful  tomato  juice  4  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls   onion  Buttered  toast 
2  tablespoonfuls   minced 

green  pepper 


MEATS  339 

Remove  the  fat  from  the  kidneys  and  let  the  latter 
stand  over  night  in  cold  water  to  cover,  containing  a 
little  baking  soda.  Drain,  dry  and  saute  (fry)  in  bacon 
fat  with  the  pepper  and  onion.  Then  add  the  flour,  toss 
about  and  pour  in  the  tomato,  and  stock ;  add  the  season- 
ings. Simmer  till  tender,  either  over  direct  heat  or  in 
the  oven,  and  serve  on  buttered  toast. 

Devilled  Kidneys 

2  beef  kidneys  2  tablespoonfuls  vinegar 

2  cupfuls  water  2  tablespoonfuls  flour 

Bit  of  bay  leaf  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Soak  the  kidneys  for  an  hour  in  cold  water,  then  re- 
move any  strings  and  cut  the  meat  in  small  pieces.  Heat 
the  water,  bay  leaf  and  vinegar,  add  the  flour  moistened 
with  cold  water,  and,  when  the  sauce  is  boiling,  season  it 
to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  the  kidneys  in  the 
sauce  and  simmer  till  tender,  about  twenty  minutes. 
Serve  with  well-seasoned  boiled  macaroni,  or  noodles. 

Beef  Balls  with  Spinach 

ii  pounds  ground  beef  i  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

i  cupful  bacon,  chopped  fine  I  teaspoonful  salt 

i  cupful  milk  or  stock  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

1  cupful  soft  bread  crumbs  Beef  drippings 

ii   cupfuls   well-seasoned  2  tablespoonfuls  flour 

stock 

Cook  the  milk  and  crumbs  together  to  a  paste;  add 
the  bacon,  meat,  lemon  juice,  salt  and  pepper,  and  one- 
half  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice  if  desired.  Form  into 
egg-shaped  balls,  roll  in  flour  and  saute  (fry)  till  slightly 
browned  in  the  drippings.  Remove  to  a  casserole.  With 
the  drippings  remaining  in  the  frying  pan  and  the  flour 
and  stock,  make  a  thick  gravy,  pour  around  the  balls,  and 
bake  thirty  minutes  in  a  slow  oven.  Serve  on  a  bed  of 
spinach,  and  garnish  with  toast  points. 

Beef  Balls  en  Casserole 

2  pounds  ground  beef  I  teaspoonful  salt 

i  tablespoonful  minced  onion          i  teaspoonful  pepper 

1  teaspoonful  minced  parsley          i  cupful   sifted  canned  to- 

2  slices    fat    bacon    or    salt  mato 

pork,  ground  I  cupful  stock  or  water 

i  egg  i  teaspoonful  salt 


340  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

i  teaspoonful  pepper  2  tablespoonfuls  grated 

I  cupful  cooked  macaroni  cheese 

Mix  together  the  beef,  bacon,  egg  and  seasonings ;  form 
into  balls  and  roll  in  flour,  and  brown  lightly  in  drippings. 
Add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  to  the  frying  pan,  and  when 
frothy  add  the  tomato  and  water  to  make  a  sauce.  Add 
the  macaroni,  sprinkle  in  the  cheese  and  pour  into  a  cas- 
serole. Set  the  balls  on  top,  cover  and  bake  forty-five 
minutes  to  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 


TRIPE 

Broiled  Tripe 

I  pound  honeycomb  tripe  i  cupful  melted  drippings 

(pickled)  Salt  and  pepper 

Fine  cracker  or  dry  bread 
crumbs 

Cut  the  tripe  in  pieces  suitable  for  serving,  and  simmer 
twenty  minutes  in  water  to  cover.  Drain,  season,  dip  in 
crumbs,  then  in  drippings  and  in  crumbs  again,  and 
cook  in  a  well-oiled  broiler  five  minutes,  cooking  the 
smooth  side  of  the  tripe  first  for  three  minutes.  Place  on 
a  hot  platter,  rough  side  up ;  season,  spread  sparingly  with 
butter  and  place  in  the  oven  to  become  very  hot. 

Tripe  Fried  in  Batter 

Cut  the  pickled  tripe  in  suitable  pieces  for  serving, 
wash  it  and  simmer  gently  for  twenty  minutes  in  water  to 
cover.  Drain,  wipe  dry,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper, 
brush  over  with  melted  butter  or  drippings,  dip  in  batter 
and  fry  in  fat  hot  enough  to  brown  a  piece  of  bread  in 
three  minutes.  Serve  with  Chili  sauce,  or  piccalilli  or 
chow-chow. 

BATTER  FOR  TRIPE 

I  cupful  flour  Few  grains  paprika 

ii  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow-          J  cupful  water 

der.  i  egg  well-beaten 

I  teaspoonful  salt  i  tablespoonful  vinegar 

Mix  in  the  order  given  and  beat  well  before  using. 


MEATS  341 

Curried  Tripe     (Miss  Armsby) 

ii  pounds  tripe  (fresh)  I  teaspoonful  brown  sugar 

1  small  onion  (sliced)  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

6  tablespoonfuls  flour  6  tablespoon  fills  butter  or 

2  teaspoonfuls  curry  powder  oleomargarine 
2  cupfuls  tripe  liquor 

Put  the  tripe  on  to  boil  in  cold  water ;  bring  to  boiling 
point,  remove,  scrape  and  rinse.  Cut  in  small  pieces. 
Return  to  the  saucepan,  cover  with  cold  water,  add  the 
onion,  bring  to  boiling  point  and  simmer  not  less  than  two 
and  one-half  hours.  Reserve  two  cupfuls  of  the  water 
the  tripe  was  cooked  in,  and  thicken  with  the  fat  and 
flour  creamed  together.  Season  with  the  curry,  sugar, 
salt  and  pepper,  pour  this  over  the  tripe  and  serve  in  a 
wall  of  boiled  brown  or  uncoated  rice. 


Tripe  Creole 

i  pound  pickled  tripe  4  cloves 

1  cupful  sliced  onions  i  pint  canned  tomatoes 

2  green  peppers  Salt  and  pepper 

Bit  of  bay  leaf  2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

2!  tablespoonfuls  flour 

Boil  the  tripe  gently  for  twenty  minutes,  then  drain, 
cut  in  small  pieces  and  put  in  a  kettle  with  the  onions, 
sliced,  the  peppers,  chopped,  tomatoes,  all  the  other  sea- 
sonings and  a  cupful  of  boiling  water.  Simmer  for  two 
hours ;  season  highly  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  thicken 
with  the  flour  dissolved  in  a  little  cold  water.  Serve  in  a 
border  of  buttered  and  seasoned  spaghetti. 


Frizzled  Dried  Beef 

1  pound  dried  beef  2  cupfuls  milk 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  J  teaspoonful  pepper 
other  fat                                          2  hard-cooked  eggs 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  Buttered  toast 

Pick  the  beef  in  small  pieces,  and  remove  the  tough 
strings.  Melt  the  fat  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  beef  and 
cook  till  browned,  then  stir  in  the  flour,  mix  well,  and  add 
the  milk  gradually.  Let  boil,  season  more  if  necessary 
and  serve  on  toast  with  a  garnish  of  the  eggs,  chopped. 


342  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Thick  Oxtail  Soup 

2  oxtails,    separated    in    sec-  4  potatoes 

tions  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

6  onions  Cold  water 

2  carrots  Beef  drippings 

i  cupful  canned  tomatoes 
(optional) 

Brown  the  meat  in  the  beef  drippings;  then- remove 
the  meat,  add  the  onion  and  carrots,  sliced,  to  the  drip- 
pings, and  cook  until  yellowed.  Combine  the  oxtail  and 
fried  vegetables  with  two  quarts  of  cold  water.  Bring  to 
boiling  point  and  simmer  slowly  until  the  meat  is  almost 
tender.  Then  add  the  potatoes,  sliced  thin,  season  to 
taste  and  finish  cooking.  Thicken  with  6  tablespoonfuls 
of  flour  dissolved  in  a  little  cold  water.  Or,  add  J  cupful 
of  rice  when  the  stew  is  half  done  and  omit  the  potatoes. 
If  desired,  this  may  be  baked  in  the  oven  in  a  bean  pot  or 
large  casserole. 

LAMB 

Roast  Leg  of  Lamb 

Remove  the  outside  fat,  then  place  the  meat  in  a  drip- 
ping pan  and  dredge  with  salt,  pepper  and  flour.  Bake 
in  a  hot  oven,  basting  with  hot  water  as  soon  as  the  flour 
is  browned ;  then  dredge  with  more  flour  and  baste  again 
when  brown.  Baste  every  fifteen  minutes  afterward  till 
the  meat  is  done  —  from  one  and  one-half  to  one  and 
three-quarter  hours  according  to  the  size  of  the  roast. 

Lamb  Roasted  Under  the  Gas  Flame 

See  general  directions  for  roasting  by  this  method  and 
allow  twenty  minutes  to  the  pound. 

Crown  Roast  of  Lamb  or  Mutton 

If  a  crown  roast  of  lamb  or  mutton  is  desired,  it  is  best 
to  order  it  put  together  from  the  butcher.  It  is  made  of 
two  strips  of  chops  fastened  together  at  the  sides.  The 
bones  should  be  trimmed  as  in  making  French  chops,  and 
the  ends  should  be  covered  with  strips  of  salt  pork,  as, 
otherwise,  while  roasting  they  become  blackened. 

Dust  the  meat  with  salt  and  a  little  pepper,  set  in  a  hot 
oven  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  reduce  the  heat  and  add  a 


MEATS  343 

little  hot  water,  as  in  the  roasting  of  any  meat.  Baste 
every  ten  minutes  with  the  drippings,  and  bake  nine  min- 
utes to  the  pound.  For  serving,  fill  the  hollow  center  with 
pofato  straws,  Saratoga  chips,  buttered  peas,  or  a  puree 
of  chestnuts,  and  cover  the  tops  of  the  bones  with  paper 
frills. 

Boiled  Leg  of  Mutton 

Trim  off  the  excess  fat  and  remove  the  bone,  fill  in  the 
cavity  with  a  bread  or  potato  and  onion  stuffing  and 
skewer  it  into  shape.  Dredge  well  with  flour  and  tie 
in  a  cloth  —  to  aid  in  keeping  the  shape.  If  very 
old  mutton  (and  of  strong  flavor),  start  to  cook  in 
cold  water  to  take  out  the  disagreeable  taste  —  other- 
wise put  on  in  boiling  water,  and  simmer  until  tender 
—  two  hours  for  a  seven-pound  leg,  three  for  ten 
pounds.  Serve  on  a  bed  of  minced  boiled  carrots,  or  of 
chopped  spinach,  and  pour  over  a  caper  sauce.  The  lamb 
broth  may  be  used  for  soup,  or  for  a  lamb  stew  made  of 
the  remnants  of  the  meat. 

Braised  Leg  of  Mutton 

Brown  a  leg  of  mutton  all  over  in  the  braising  pan.  Add 
a  cupful  each  of  chopped  carrot,  onion,  turnip  and  celery, 
and  water  to  half  cover.  Cover  closely  anjl  simmer  gently 
till  half  done  (about  one  and  three-quarter  hours)  ;  then 
season,  add  more  water  if  necessary  and  finish  cooking. 
Serve  with  a  thickened  gravy  made  from  the  liquid  in  the 
pan.  It  will  take  a  six-pound  piece  three  hours  to  cook. 

Stuffed  Forequarter  of  Lamb 

Order  a  forequarter  of  lamb,  trimmed  and  the  bones 
cracked.  Prepare  a  well-seasoned  bread  stuffing ;  dust  the 
meat  with  salt  and  pepper ;  lay  the  stuffing  on  the  flank  end 
and  skewer  it  into  shape.  Place  in  a  dripping  pan.  Dust 
thoroughly  with  flour,  allowing  about  three  tablespoonfuls 
to  fall  on  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  and  bake,  allowing  fifteen 
minutes  to  the  pound,  and  basting  occasionally  with  a  lit- 
tle hot  water.  If  desired,  a  little  sliced  onion  may  be 
tucked  into  the  folds  before  the  meat  is  roasted. 

Breaded  Forequarter  of  Lamb 
Bpil  a  forequarter  of  lamb  in  salted  water,  cool  it,  and 


344  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

remove  the  meat  from  the  bones.  Pack  into  a  pan  two 
inches  deep,  and  press  hard  over  night.  In  the  morning 
cut  in  squares,  or  diamonds,  roll  in  well-buttered  crumbs, 
and  bake  in  the  oven  till  browned,  or  egg  and  crumb,  a"nd 
fry  as  croquettes.  Serve  accompanied  by  a  brown,  to- 
mato, or  cream  sauce,  or  with  peas. 

Lamb  Pasty 

3  pounds  lamb,  cut  from  the         3  cupfuls  boiling  water 

neck  6  tablespoonfuls  flour 

Bit  of  bay  leaf  I  cupful  peas,  if  desired 

ii  cupfuls  French  potato  4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

balls,  or  diced  potatoes  drippings 

i  teaspoonful  onion  juice  Salt  and  pepper 

i  tablespoonful  tomato  Short  biscuit  crust  , 
catsup 

Cut  the  lamb  in  "  handsome  mouthfuls."  Roll  in  flour, 
saute  (fry)  slightly  in  the  drippings  and  place  in  a  cas- 
serole or  braising  dish.  Add  the  bay  leaf  (tied  in  bit  of 
cheesecloth)  and  boiling  water,  and  let  simmer  until  ten- 
der —  about  two  hours,  adding  one  and  one-half  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  salt  at  the  end  of  an  hour.  Remove  the  bay  leaf, 
add  the  onion  juice  and  catsup  and  the  potato  balls. 
Stir  in  the  peas,  thicken  with  the  flour  and  butter  rubbed 
together,  season  to  taste,  bring  to  boiling  point  and  set  the 
crust  quickly  in  place.  Bake  until  browned,  about  twenty 
minutes,  in  a  hot  oven. 

Broiled  Chops 

Wipe  the  chops  with  a  damp  cloth,  remove  the  tough 
outside  skin,  and  arrange  on  a  well-oiled  broiler.  Place 
over  a  glowing  bed  of  coals  or  under  a  gas-broiler  and 
turn  every  ten  seconds  until  the  chops  look  "  puffy  "  and 
the  fat  is  clear  in  appearance.  Then  sprinkle  with  salt 
and  a  bit  of  pepper,  dot  with  bits  of  butter,  and  set  in  the 
oven  to  melt  the  butter.  Serve  at  once. 

Pan-Broiled  Chops 

Wipe  the  chops  with  a  damp  cloth  and  remove  the 
tough  skin.  Heat  a  frying  pan  very  hot,  put  in  the  chops 
and  turn  at  once.  Turn  every  ten  seconds  until  they  are 
brown  and  the  fat  is  clear-looking.  Cook  thin  chops  five 
minutes.  When  done,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 


MEATS  345 

spread  sparingly  with  butter.  Set  in  the  oven  for  a 
minute,  and  serve  very  hot.  A  little  boiling  water  may  be 
added  to  the  drippings  in  the  pan,  and  the  gravy  poured 
around  the  chops. 

Lamb  Chops  with  Peas 

Pan-broil  lamb  chops,  as  directed.  To  the  gravy  left  in 
the  pan  add  the  desired  amount  of  boiled  fresh  or  canned 
peas.  Let  stand  to  become  thoroughly  hot  and  to  absorb 
the  meat  flavor. 

Baked  Lamb  Chops 

Select  any  type  of  lamb  or  mutton  chops  cut  one-half 
inch  thick.  Trim  them  into  shape,  and  saute  (fry)  lightly 
on  either  side.  Then  pile  well-seasoned  mashed  potatoes 
on  each  chop,  brush  over  with  well-beaten  egg,  and  finish 
in  the  oven.  Serve  with  brown  or  tomato  sauce 

Stuffed  Lamb  Chops 

6  good-sized  lamb  chops  J  cupful  grated  cheese 

(loin)  i  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

i-i  cupfuls  soft  bread  crumbs  £  teaspoonful  celery  salt 

Milk  Few  grains  pepper 
i  teaspoonful  minced  parsley 

If  possible,  select  chops  from  the  loin  and  bone  and 
roll  them.  Make  a  dressing  of  the  other  ingredients, 
moistening  with  milk  as  is  necessary ;  pan-broil  the  chops 
lightly,  browning  the  under  side  and  seasoning  them  as 
they  cook.  Then  cover  with  the  stuffing  and  bake  for 
five  minutes  in  a  hot  oven,  when  the  stuffing  should  be 
brown.  Serve  on  toast  with  a  brown  sauce  made  from 
the  drippings  in  the  pan  and  a  little  stock  made  from  the 
bones  and  trimmings. 

Breaded  Lamb  Chops 

Wipe  and  trim  the  chops,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  dip  in  crumbs,  egg,  and  crumb  again ;  fry  in  deep  fat 
from  five  to  eight  minutes  and  drain.  Serve  with  tomato 
sauce,  or  stack  around  a  mound  of  mashed  potatoes, 
fried  potoato  balls,  boiled  brown  or  uncoated  rice,  boiled 
samp,  or  green  peas.  Never  fry  but  four  at  a  time, 
and  allow  the  fat  to  re-heat  between  the  fryings.  After 


346  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

testing  the  fat  for  the  temperature,  put  in  the  chops,  and 
place  the  kettle  on  the  back  of  the  range,  so  that  the  sur- 
face of  the  chops  may  not  become  too  brown  while  the 
inside  is  still  underdone. 

Baked  Mutton  Chops 

6  shoulder,  or  blade,  mutton  2  tablespoonfuls  flour 

chops  ii  tablespoonfuls    butter    or 

2  tablespoonfuls  minced  drippings 

onion  2  cupfuls  stock 

4  tablespoonfuls  minced  car-  £  cupful  grated  horseradish 

rot  i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

Bit  of  bay  leaf  Buttered  crumbs 

2  cloves 

Trim  the  chops,  removing  the  superfluous  fat.  Plunge 
into  the  boiling  stock  and  simmer  with  the  spice  and  vege- 
tables forty-five  minutes.  Then  make  a  sauce  of  the 
stock  and  the  other  ingredients,  pour  it  into  a  baking  dish, 
set  the  chops  over  it,  dust  them  with  buttered  crumbs  and 
salt  and  pepper,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  till  browned. 

Mutton  Chops  en  Casserole 

6  mutton  chops  I  pint  stock 

I  onion  i  cupful  mushrooms 

i  small  carrot  .      I  tablespoonful  flour 

i  turnip  2  tablespoonfuls  drippings 

Salt  and  pepper 

Chop  or  dice  the  vegetables ;  saute  the  chops  on  both 
sides,  then  the  vegetables,  in  the  fat.  Add  the  flour  to  the 
vegetables,  mix  lightly,  and  put  in  the  casserole.  Put  in 
the  chops,  add  the  stock  and  simmer  in  the  oven  until  soft. 
Add  the  mushrooms  when  nearly  done,  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper. 

Lamb  Stew 

2!  pounds   shoulder  or  back  3  onions 

of  lamb  2  teaspoonfuls  salt 

1  cupful  thinly  sliced  carrots  i  teaspoonful   pepper 

2  cupfuls  diced  potatoes  Flour 

i  cupful  peas  Worcestershire  sauce 

\  cupful    diced    celery    (op-          Tomato  catsup 
tional) 

Cut  the  meat  in  cubes  and  roll  in  flour.  Arrange  in 
layers,  alternating  with  the  vegetables  in  a  kettle,  and 
sprinkling  on  the  salt  and  pepper.  Pour  over  boiling 


MEATS  347 

water  to  cover  and  simmer  gently  for  two  hours.  Add 
the  peas  just  before  the  dish  is  to  be  served,  seasoning  it 
to  taste  with  Worcestershire  and  catsup.  If  desired, 
the  celery  may  be  omitted,  and  turnips  or  parsnips  used 
to  replace  it. 

Lamb  Fricassee 

Boil  a  shoulder  of  lamb  in  salted  water,  then  drain  and 
cut  off  the  meat  in  suitable  portions  for  serving.  Roll 
these  in  flour,  season  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper  and 
brown  quickly  in  beef  drippings  or  a  combination  of  beef 
drippings  and  sausage  fat.  Make  a  gravy  from  the  stock 
in  which  the  shoulder  was  boiled,  adding  to  it  minced 
mint  or  capers,  and  season  it  highly  with  Worcestershire 
or  tomato  catsup. 

Casserole  of  Lamb 

2i  pounds  of  lamb  cut  from          4  tablespoonfuls  uncoated 
the  neck  rice 

1  cupful  sliced  onions  2  cupfuls  stewed  tomatoes 

2  tablespoonfuls  drippings  I  teaspoonful  salt 
Few  grains  nutmeg                           i  teaspoonful  sugar 

Few  grains  pepper 

Cut  the  lamb  in  pieces,  roll  in  flour  and  brown  with  the 
onions  in  the  drippings.  Add  the  tomato  and  seasoning 
and  put  in  a  casserole  with  the  rice  sprinkled  between 
each  layer.  Barely  cover  with  boiling  water,  and  bake, 
covered,  in  a  slow  oven  for  two  or  two  and  one-half 
hours.  The  rice  should  absorb  the  water.  If  it  seems  a 
little  dry,  add  water  as  needed. 


VEAL 

Roast  Veal 

Purchase  a  fillet  of  veal  or  a  roast  from  the  loin.  Bone 
the  meat,  fill  in  the  cavities  with  bread  stuffing,  well-sea- 
soned with  onion  and  celery  salt,  and  skewer  into  shape. 
Place  in  a  baking  pan,  dredge  with  salt,  pepper  and  flour, 
and  lay  thin  strips  of  salt  pork  over  the  meat.  Put  in  a 
hot  oven  and  bake  until  the  flour  is  brown,  then  reduce 
the  heat  and  cook  until  done,  allowing  twenty  minutes  to 
the  pound,  basting  frequently  with  some  of  the  water  in 
the  pan.  Water  should  be  added  to  the  pan  as  soon  as  the 


348  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

flour  is  colored.     Make  a  gravy  from  the  drippings  in  the 
pan. 

Veal  Roasted  Under  the  Gas  Flame 

See  general  directions  for  roasting  by  this  method  and 
allow  twenty-three  minutes  to  the  pound. 

Veal  Stew 

4  pounds  knuckle  of  veal  I  teaspoonful  salt 

3  quarts  cold  water  I  pint  stewed  tomatoes 

2  minced  onions  I  cupful  diced  celery 

1  teaspoonful  peppercorns  i  teaspoonful  sugar 

2  cloves  i  cupful  brown  rice 
Bit  of  bay  leaf  Dumplings 

Wipe  the  meat,  crack  the  bones  and  put  the  meat  on  to 
cook  in  cold  water.  Bring  to  the  boiling  point,  add  the 
spices  tied  in  a  cloth  and  the  onions.  When  half  done, 
add  the  salt.  When  the  meat  is  tender,  strain  off  the 
liquor.  Cut  the  meat  in  cubes  and  set  aside.  Add  the 
celery,  tomato  and  rice  to  the  liquid,  of  which  there 
should  be  two  quarts,  turn  in  the  meat  and  cook  until  the 
rice  is  done.  Serve  with  steamed  dumplings,  made  either 
of  white  or  entire  wheat  flour. 

Fricasseed  Veal 

Select  a  shoulder  of  veal.  Simmer  until  tender,  then 
cut  in  pieces  suitable  for  serving,  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper,  roll  in  flour  and  brown  in  drippings.  Serve  on 
toast  or  split  biscuits  with  a  gravy  made  from  the  liquor 
in  which  the  veal  was  cooked. 

Veal  Pie 

2  pounds  veal  cut  from  the  3  tabtespoonfuls  bacon  fat  or 

knuckle  drippings 

I  cupful  cooked  peas,  if  con-  4  tablespoonfuls  flour 

venient  Short  biscuit  crust 
3  cupfuls  well-seasoned  stock 

Cut  the  veal  in  small  pieces.  Roll  in  flour  and  fry  till 
well-browned  in  the  fat.  Cover  with  stock,  add  a  slice  of 
carrot  and  one  onion  and  simmer  until  tender.  Then  add 
the  peas,  and  thicken  with  the  flour  dissolved  in  a  little 
cold  water.  When  boiling,  pour  into  a  baking  dish,  set 
the  crust  in  place,  and  bake  about  twenty-five  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven. 


MEATS  349 

Veal  and  Oyster  Pie 

ii  pounds  veal  from  the  £  pint  oysters 

knuckle  2  tablespoon  fuls  bacon  fat 

£  cupful  minced  cooked  ham  3  tablespoon  fuls  flour 

2  cupfuls  well-seasoned  stock  Short  biscuit  crust 

Cut  the  veal  in  small  pieces ;  roll  in  the  flour  and  saute 
(fry),  until  well-browned,  in  the  bacon  fat.  Cover  with 
the  stock,  add  a  slice  of  carrot  and  one  of  onion  and  sim- 
mer till  tender.  Then  add  the  ham  and  the  oysters, 
which  should  be  well  washed,  thicken  with  the  flour  re- 
maining from  the  veal,  and  pour  into  a  baking  dish, 
rubbed  with  the  bacon  fat.  When  boiling-hot,  set  the 
crust  in  place.  Bake  about  twenty-five  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

Brown  Veal  en  Casserole 

3  to  4  pounds  knuckle  of  veal          I  teaspoonful  salt 

I  tablespoonful  sugar  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

i  onion  I  cupful  cream  or  rich  milk 

.1  quart  boiling  water  3  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

3  tablespoonfuls  flour  oleomargarine 
A  little  lemon  rind 

Cut  the  veal  in  pieces  suitable  for  serving.  Caramelize 
the  sugar  and,  when  dark,  add  the  onion,  stirring  until 
coated.  Add  the  boiling  water  and  meat.  When  boiling 
rapidly,  cover  closely,  put  in  the  oven  and  cook  till  tender, 
about  two  hours.  Then  add  the  seasonings,  the  butter 
and  flour  rubbed  together,  and  boil  up  once.  Serve  sur- 
rounded with  boiled  brown  or  uncoated  rice,  either  plain 
or  curried. 

Veal  Fricandelles 

2\  cupfuls  cooked  or  raw  2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 

veal,  ground  I  teaspoonful  salt 

i  cupful  ham,  minced    (op-  i  tablespoonful  tomato  cat- 

tional)  sup  (optional) 

\  cupful  milk  \  teaspoonful  pepper 

\  cupful  soft  bread  crumbs  Bacon  fat 

ii  cupfuls  well-seasoned  2  tablespoonfuls  flour 

stock  i  teaspoonful  minced  pars- 
i  tablespoonful  minced  ley 

green  peppers 

Cook  the  crumbs  and  milk  to  a  paste.  Add  it  to  the 
veal,  ham,  pepper,  lemon  juice,  catsup,  parsley  and  sea- 
sonings and  mix  well.  Make  into  egg-shaped  balls,  roll 


350  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

in  flour  and  saute  (fry)  in  bacon  fat  till  light  brown. 
Transfer  to  a  casserole,  and  pour  over  a  gravy  made  from 
the  fat  left  in  the  frying  pan,  the  flour  and  the  stock. 
Cook  in  a  moderate  oven  till  done,  thirty  minutes  for  the 
cooked  meat,  and  an  hour  for  the  raw.  Serve  on  toast 
points,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  surround  by  gravy. 

Pressed  Veal 

Order  a  knuckle  of  veal,  sawed  through  the  bone.  Boil 
it  in  salted  water  containing  a  half  teaspoonful  of  pickle 
spice,  until  the  meat  is  tender.  Drain  and  cool  it,  chop 
the  meat  fine,  season  it  with  additional  salt  and  pepper 
and  a  little  lemon  juice  if  the  flavor  is  liked.  Boil  down 
the  liquor  to  one  cupful,  mix  with  the  meat  and  pack  into 
a  bread  pan  which  has  been  rinsed  with  cold  water.  Put 
a  second  pan  on  top  of  the  meat,  weight  and  chill. 

Veal  and  Pork  Loaf 

I  pound  ground  veal  Few  grains  mace 

i  pound  ground  pork  i  teaspoonful  poultry  season- 

I  cupful  soft  bread  crumbs  ing 

i  cupful  hot  milk  i  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

i  egg  I  tablespoonful  minced  pars- 

ik  teaspoonfuls  salt  ley 

$  teaspoonful  pepper 

Cook  the  crumbs  and  milk  to  a  paste.  Add  to  it  the 
other  ingredients,  mix  well,  pack  into  a  well-oiled  pan,  and 
bake  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Pot  Koast  of  Veal 

i  small  shoulder  of  veal,  2  teaspoonfuls  salt 

boned  and  rolled  \  teaspoonful  pepper 

ij  cupfuls    finely-sliced    car-  Beef  drippings 

rots  i  pint  boiling  soup  stock 

3  cloves  2  onions 

i  teaspoonful  peppercorns 

Dust  the  meat  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  brown  it  in  the 
drippings;  transfer  to  a  heavy  kettle,  add  the  slices  of 
onion  and  carrot  to  the  drippings  and  cook  until  yellowed. 
Then  pour  over  the  meat,  with  the  other  ingredients,  and 
cook  gently  until  the  meat  is  tender  —  from  three  to  four 
hours.  Thicken  the  gravy  as  usual.  Season,  if  desired, 
with  a  drop  or  two  of  tabasco  sauce. 


MEATS  351 

Veal  with.  Anchovies 

2  pounds  veal  cutlet  I  onion,  sliced 

4  anchovies  3  cloves   garlic,   chopped 

i  teaspoonful  ground  clove  Scant  half  cupful  vinegar 

i  teaspoonful  ground  cinna-  2  tablespoonfuls  ground  salt 
mon  pork 

1  teaspoonful  nutmeg  I  tablespoonful   flour 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter 

Combine  the  butter  and  salt  pork  in  a  frying  pan. 
When  hot  add  the  meat  and  onion,  and  when  the  meat  is 
a  golden  color  add  all  the  other  ingredients  except  the 
vinegar ;  cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes.  Dust  with  salt  and 
pepper,  pour  over  the  vinegar  with  an  equal  quantity  of 
water,  cover  and  simmer,  adding  more  water  if  necessary. 
When  almost  done,  thicken  the  sauce  with  the  flour  mixed 
with  a  little  cold  water,  return  the  meat  and  finish  cook- 
ing. 

Baked  Veal  Chops 

2  pounds  veal  chops  Crumbs 

i  pound  bacon  £  teaspoonful  Worcestershire 

Bit  of  bay  leaf  sauce 

Boil  the  chops  gently  for  five  minutes  in  water  contain- 
ing a  little  sugar  and  a  bay  leaf.  Drain  thoroughly,  dip 
in  melted  bacon  fat,  sprinkle  with  the  Worcestershire  and 
salt  and  crumbs;  set  in  a  baking  pan,  and  place  a  small 
piece  of  bacon  on  each  chop.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  until  the 
bacon  begins  to  crisp,  then  add  a  little  water  to  the  pan, 
and  cook  more  slowly  till  the  chops  are  tender.  This 
will  take  about  thirty-five  minutes. 

Breaded  Veal  Cutlets 

Simmer  the  cutlets  five  minutes  in  boiling  water,  con- 
taining a  teaspoonful  of  sugar  to  each  pint  of  water. 
Drain,  dry,  dip  in  fine  crumbs,  then  in  slightly-beaten  egg, 
diluted  with  cold  water  (one-fourth  cupful  to  an  egg), 
then  again  in  crumbs.  Plunge  into  fat  hot  enough  to 
brown  a  bit  of  bread  in  three  minutes,  and  fry  till  brown. 
Drain  on  crumpled  paper,  and  serve  with  tomato  or  Creole 
sauce. 

Veal  Steak,  Italian 

Veal  steak  Salt  and  pepper 

I  teaspoonful  sugar  i  clove 

Bit  of  bay  leaf  Onion,  sliced 


352  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Slice  veal  steak  thin,  and  cut  in  individual  servings. 
Boil  five  minutes  in  water  to  cover,  containing  one  tea- 
spoonful  sugar,  a  bit  of  bay  leaf,  one  clove,  and  a  slice  of 
onion  to  each  pint  of  water.  Drain,  dust  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  dip  in  crumbs,  egg,  and  crumbs  again  and 
cook  in  deep  fat  hot  enough  to  brown  a  bit  of  bread  in 
three  minutes.  Serve  with  sliced  lemon. 

Veal  Mexican  Style 

2  pounds  veal,  sliced  4  inch  Beef  drippings 

thick  f  cupful  minced  cooked 

\  cupful  chopped  chives  ham 

I  tablespoonful  minced  pars-  Salt 

ley  Pepper 

Cut  the  veal  in  pieces  suitable  for  serving  and  dip  them 
in  flour.  Melt  the  beef  drippings  and  fry  the  veal  in 
them;  when  half  done,  sprinkle  with  the  chives,  parsley 
and  ham,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  finish,  cooking 
slowly. 

LIVER 

Broiled  Liver  and  Bacon 

Scald  the  bacon,  drain  and  set  in  a  baking  pan  in  a  hot 
oven  to  cook.  Scald  the  liver,  let  stand  five  minutes  in 
the  water,  then  pull  off  the  outer  membranes  and  remove 
the  tough  veins.  Dip  in  the  bacon  fat  and  broil  from 
five  to  six  minutes,  according  to  the  thickness,  turning 
from  side  to  side.  Add  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  gar- 
nished with  the  bacon. 

Fried  Liver  and  Bacon 

Cover  with  boiling  water  slices  of  liver  cut  one-half 
inch  thick;  let  stand  five  minutes  to  draw  out  the  blood, 
drain,  wipe  and  remove  the  thin  outside  skin  and  veins. 
Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  in  flour  and  fry  in  the 
fat  remaining  from  baked  bacon. 

Fried  Liver  with  Onions 

Prepare  the  liver  for  frying  as  in  the  preceding  recipe. 
For  a  pound  of  liver,  peel  and  slice  six  onions.  Fry  them 
gently  until  done  in  bacon  fat,  remove  from  the  fat  and 


MEATS  353 

cook  the  liver  in  it.     Put  the  liver  on  a  platter,  spread 
the  onions  over  it  and  dust  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper. 

Liver  with  Olive  Sauce 

ii  pounds  liver  Salt  and  pepper 

2  cupfuls  soup  stock  4  cupful  chopped  olives 

4  teaspoonful  lemon  juice  2  hard-cooked  eggs 

1  tablespoonful  flour  Grated  rind  i  lemon 

Cut  the  liver  in  pieces  suitable  for  serving,  then  scald 
with  boiling  water,  allowing  it  to  stand  five  minutes. 
Drain,  dip  in  flour  and  fry  slowly  in  bacon  or  beef  drip- 
pings till  tender,  seasoning  during  the  cooking.  Trans- 
fer to  a  platter,  then  add  the  flour  and  drippings  in  the 
pan,  follow  with  the  soup  stock,  and,  when  it  is  boiling 
and  smooth,  add  the  olives,  lemon  and  seasonings  if  neces- 
sary. Pour  over  the  meat,  and  sprinkle  with  the  egg, 
chopped  fine. 

Liver  en  Casserole 

2  pounds  liver  i  cupful  bacon  fat 
I  cupful  diced  carrot  \  cupful  flour 

i  cupful  green  peas  3  cupfuls  boiling  water 

1  cupful  diced  celery  I  teaspoonful  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls  minced  \  teaspoonful  pepper 
onion  \  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

Slice  the  liver  in  pieces  suitable  for  serving  and  let 
stand  five  minutes  in  boiling  water.  Drain  the  liver  and 
dredge  thickly  with  the  flour,  then  fry  in  hot  bacon  fat 
until  browned.  Add  any  remaining  flour  and  transfer  to 
a  casserole  in  alternate  layers  with  the  vegetables.  Add 
the  boiling  water  and  seasonings,  cover  and  cook  slowly 
one  and  one-half  hours.  Serve  with  boiled  brown  rice 
and  a  crisp  green  salad. 

Liver  a  la  McAlpin 

ii  pounds  liver  4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

1  pint  canned  tomatoes  chicken  fat 

2  shredded  green  peppers  3  tablespoonfuls  flour 
2  onions,  sliced  I  teaspoonful  salt 

4  teaspoonful  pepper 

Order  the  liver  sliced  moderately  thin.  Scald  it  with 
boiling  water,  and  peel  off  the  tough  skin  and  membrane. 
Then  dip  the  liver  in  flour,  fry  it  quickly  in  butter  or 
chicken  fat,  salting  it  while  cooking.  Remove  the  liver 


354  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

and  set  in  a  warm  place.  Put  the  onions  and  the  green 
peppers  into  the  drippings,  and  fry  until  they  are  soft; 
then  add  the  flour,  and  the  tomato  and  seasonings.  Stir 
constantly  until  thick  and  cook  for  about  ten  minutes. 
Transferee  liver  to  a  platter,  pour  over  the  sauce  and, 
in  serving,  garnish  with  parsley. 

Calves'  Hearts  Smothered  with  Onions 

Clean  the  hearts  thoroughly,  then  slice  crosswise  in 
inch  pieces.  Peel  eight  medium-sized  onions  and  cut  into 
rings.  Put  a  half  cupful  of  beef  drippings  in  a  deep 
frying  pan  or  heavy  kettle  and  brown  the  heart  and 
onions  together.  Add  a  bit  of  bay  leaf,  two  or  three 
cloves  and  a  fourth  cupful  of  celery  leaves,  or  diced  cel- 
ery, dredge  over  a  fourth  cupful  of  flour  and  add  water 
to  half  cover  —  about  3  cupfuls.  Cover  closely  and  sim- 
mer for  an  hour  and  a  half. 


SWEETBREADS 

To  Prepare  Sweetbreads 

Soak  the  sweetbreads  for  an  hour  or  more  in  cold 
water.  Then  remove  and  simmer  in  water  containing  a 
little  vinegar  and  salt  for  twenty  minutes.  Plunge  into 
boiling  water  to  harden.  Then  remove  the  tubes,  skin 
and  bits  of  fiber,  taking  great  care  not  to  break  the  sweet- 
breads. However  they  are  to  be  served,  this  is  always 
the  preliminary  preparation. 

Broiled  Sweetbreads     Y 

Split  the  sweetbreads  lengthwise,  dust  with  pepper  and 
salt,  brush  with  melted  butter  and  broil  until  lightly 
browned.  Serve  with  mushroom  or  yellow  Bechamel 
sauce. 

Sweetbread  Timbales 

ii  cupfuls  minced  cooked  Few  grains  pepper 

sweetbreads  i  teaspoonful  minced  parsley 

£  cupful  bread  crumbs  2  egg  yolks 

i  cupful  milk  I  tablespoonful  melted  but- 
£  teaspoonful  salt  ter 

Cook  the  crumbs  and  milk  together  to  a  paste,  combine 


MEATS  355 

with  the  other  ingredients,  adding  the  egg  yolks,  unbeaten, 
and  folding  in  the  egg  whites  whipped  stiff  at  the  last. 
Turn  into  well-oiled  timbale  moulds ;  stand  in  a  pan  con- 
taining boiling  water  and  bake  until  firm,  about  twenty- 
five  minutes,  in  a  moderate  oven.  Serve  hot  with  but- 
tered peas  or  asparagus  tips. 

Sweetbread  and  Mushroom  Kamekins 

2  cupfuls  diced,  cooked  i  egg  yolk 

sweetbreads  i  teaspoonful  minced  pars- 
I  cupful   diced,  canned  ley 

mushrooms  Few  grains  mace 

ii   cupfuls   White   Sauce  Buttered  crumbs 

No.  2 

Combine  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given,  transfer 
the  mixture  to  buttered  ramekins,  and  bestrew  with  the 
buttered  crumbs.  Bake  until  brown  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Breaded  Sweetbreads 

Split  the  parboiled  sweetbreads  in  halves  lengthwise ; 
dust  with  salt  and  pepper  and  sprinkle  with  lemon  juice. 
Dip  in  fine  dry  bread  crumbs,  then  in  egg,  and  crumbs 
again,  as  in  making  croquettes  and  fry,  until  browned,  in 
deep  fat  hot  enough  to  brown  a  bit  of  bread  in  forty 
seconds.  Serve  with  sauce  tartare. 

Sweetbreads,  Lenten  Style 

i  pair  sweetbreads  i  cupful  flour 

\  pint  oysters  4  tablespoonfuls  butter 

1  teaspoonful  pepper  li  cupfuls  cream 

2  shredded  hard-cooked  eggs          I  teaspoonful  salt 
i  cupful  cooked  peas  Few  grains  mace 
£  teaspoonful  onion  juice  Buttered  crumbs 
i  teaspoonful  soy  sauce 

Parboil  the  sweetbreads  and  cut  each  into  three  slices 
lengthwise.  Wash  the  oysters,  drain  the  peas  and  shred 
the  eggs.  Dip  sweetbreads  and  oysters,  first  in  melted 
butter,  then  in  flour.  Butter  a  baking  dish.  Lay  in  first 
a  thin  layer  of  oysters,  then  two  slices  of  sweetbreads,  a 
few  peas,  and  repeat  until  all  are  used.  Mix  the  season- 
ings with  the  cream.  Pour  over,  add  a  sprinkling  of  but- 
tered bread  crumbs  and  set  the  dish  in  hot  water  in  a 
moderate  oven  till  browned.  It  will  take  about  thirty 
minutes.  Pass  olives  and  celery  with  it. 


356'  MRS.  ALLEN'S'  COOK  BOOK 

PORK 

Roast  Boned  Shoulder  of  Pork 

Order  a  shoulder  of  pork  boned.  Stuff  the  opening 
with  a  well-seasoned  bread  dressing  and  skewer  or  sew 
it  in  place.  Then  score  the  skin  for  carving,  and  sprinkle 
liberally  with  flour,  salt  and  pepper.  Set  in  a  moderate 
oven  and  roast  until  perfectly  tender,  about  three  hours, 
twenty-five  minutes  to  the  pound.  When  it  is  nearly 
done,  place  tomatoes,  stuffed  with  the  dressing,  in  the 
pan  —  one  for  each  person  —  and  cook  till  they  are  ten- 
der. Then  remove  the  tomatoes  and  meat,  and  make  a 
gravy  of  three  tablespoon fuls  of  the  fat  in  the  pan,  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  ij  cupfuls  of  water,  or  broth. 
Tart  apples  may  be  substituted  for  the  tomatoes. 

Roast  Pork 

Roast  loin  of  pork  or  fresh  ham  may  be  substituted 
for  the  shoulder  in  the  preceding  recipe. 

Old-Fashioned  Pork  Pie 

3  pounds  blade  pork  Salt  and  pepper 

\  cupful  sliced  onion  I  pint  sliced  potato 

Bit  of  bay  leaf  Short  biscuit  crust 

Cut  the  pork  in  pieces  suitable  for  serving.  Brown 
with  the  onions,  add  the  bay  leaf  and  water  barely  to 
cover,  and  simmer  till  nearly  tender  —  about  thirty  min- 
utes. Oil  a  baking  dish,  add  the  potatoes  and  season- 
ing to  the  meat,  and  thicken  to  the  desired  consistency 
with  a  little  flour  dissolved  in  cold  water.  Cover  with 
the  crust  cut  into  rounds,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
until  the  crust  is  browned. 

Pork  Chops  Saute* 

Dust  the  chops  with  salt  and  pepper  and  pan-broil  until 
brown  on  each  side.  Dust  with  flour,  barely  cover  with 
water,  and  simmer  till  tender  —  about  thirty  minutes. 
Season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  trace  of  sage. 

Pork  Chops  en  Casserole 

2  pounds  pork  chops,   or  i  teaspoonful  salt 

fresh  ham  cut  in  pieces  \  teaspoonful  pepper 

for  serving  Dried  bread  crumbs 

2^  cupfuls  sliced  yellow  tur-  i  chopped  apple 

nips  Boiling  water  or  stock 

i  cupful  diced  celery  Powdered  sage 


MEATS  357 

Dust  the  chops  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  sage,  roll 
thickly  in  crumbs  and  brown  on  either  side  in  drippings. 
Put  a  layer  of  the  turnips,  apples  and  celery  mixed  in 
the  casserole,  then  the  chops,  and  repeat  until  all  is 
used.  Add  the  seasonings,  and  water  or  stock  nearly  to 
cover,  set  the  lid  in  place,  and  cook  one  and  one-half 
hours  in  a  moderate  oven.  If  too  moist,  add  dried  crumbs 
to  thicken  when  done. 

Baked  Pork  Chops,  with  Apples 

Dust  the  chops. with  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  sage,  then 
roll  them  in  finely-ground  bread  crumbs  and  place  in  a 
dripping  pan.  Set  half  of  a  cored  apple  on  each  one  and 
bake  about  thirty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  When 
the  crumbs  are  slightly  browned,  a  little  water  should 
be  added  to  the  pan. 

Sliced  Pork  Creole 

Select  a  two  and  one-half  pound  piece  of  fresh  ham, 
cut  about  one-half  inch  thick.  Trim  off  the  extra  fat, 
put  the  ham  in  a  hot  frying  pan  and  cook  it  ten  minutes, 
or  until  browned.  Then  add  two  sliced  onions,  a  cupful 
of  stewed  tomato  and  a  shredded  green  pepper  and  cook 
for  five  minutes  longer.  Add  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour,  rubbing  it  well  into  the  meat,  and  barely  cover  with 
boiling  water.  Season  and  cook,  covered,  the  balance  of 
half  an  hour.  When  the  time  is  almost  up  add  two  cup- 
fuls  of  boiled  spaghetti.  Serve  surrounded  by  the 
spaghetti. 

Boiled  Ham 

If  a  small  ham  is  desired,  select  a  boned  shoulder,  or 
butt  end  of  a  whole  ham.  Otherwise  use  a  whole  ham. 
Scrub  well  with  cold  water  containing  a  little  baking 
soda  and  put  on  to  cook  in  cold  water  containing  a  table- 
spoonful  of  mixed  pickle  spice,  if  the  flavor  is  desired. 
Bring  to  boiling  point  and  simmer  until  the  ham  is  per- 
fectly tender,  about  three  hours  for  a  ten-pound  ham. 
Let  it  cool  in  the  water.  Pare  back  the  skin,  but  do  not 
remove  it.  Slice  as  much  ham  as  is  needed,  fold  the 
skin  over  the 'cut  surface  and  wrap  the  ham  in  paraffine 
paper. 


358  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Pan-Broiled  Boiled  Ham 

Slice  boiled  ham  thin,  put  a  little  ham  fat  and  a  dust- 
ing of  sugar  in  a  frying  pan,  and  brown  the  ham  in  it. 

Virginia  Baked  Ham 

A  small,  rather  lean  ham  \  teaspoonful  ground  cinna- 

6  cloves  mon 

•k  teaspoonful  celery  seed  10  peppercorns 

Sugar  i  quart  sweet  cider 

Boiling  water  Beaten  egg 

Wash  the  ham  thoroughly,  sprinkle  with  soda,  scrub- 
bing it  all  over  the  surface,  rinse  in  cold  water  and  place 
in  a  kettle  with  the  clove,  celery  seed,  cinnamon  and  pep- 
percorns and  a  quart  of  sweet  cider;  cover  with  boiling 
water  and  simmer  till  tender,  four  or  five  hours.  Remove 
from  the  water,  pare  off  the  skin  and  sprinkle  the  ham 
with  sugar;  brush  over  with  beaten  egg,  then  cover  with 
ground  bread  crumbs,  stick  in  cloves  at  even  intervals 
and  brown  in  the  oven.  Trim  the  meat  from  the  bone 
end,  and  decorate  the  latter  with  celery  leaves  and  curls. 
Serve  with  currant  sauce. 

Ham  Roasted  with  Grape  Juice 

A  lean  ham  Bay  leaf 

i  cupful   sliced   carrots  10  peppercorns 

i  cupful  sliced  onions  6  cloves 

Thyme  Grape  juice 

Scrub  the  ham  with  soda  water,  then  soak  it  for  twelve 
hours.  Remove  the  end  bone.  Put  in  the  bottom  of  a 
roasting-pan  the  carrots,  onion,  thyme,  a  bay  leaf,  pep- 
percorns and  cloves.  Set  on  the  ham,  pour  over  a  pint 
of  grape  juice  and  cover  the  pan  closely  for  twelve  hours. 
Then  wrap  the  ham  in  heavy  paraffine  paper,  or  encase 
in  a  prepared  paper  bag,  cover  with  a  thick  paste  of  flour 
and  water  and  roast  for  three  hours  in  a  hot  oven.  Then 
make  a  hole  in  the  paste  and  pour  in  slowly  by  means  of 
a  funnel  the  grape  juice  in  which  the  ham  has  stood  to 
season.  Put  some- paste  over  the  hole  and  close  it,  and 
let  it  roast  an  hour  longer.  When  done,  remove  the 
paper  carefully  to  preserve  all  the  juices,  .dust  the  ham 
with  sugar  and  brown  it  and  serve  plain  or  with  grape 
sauce. 


MEATS  359 

Braised  Ham 

A  boned  and  rolled  shoulder  2  inches  stick  cinnamon 

of  ham  i  cupful  sliced  onions 

2.  cupfuls  diced  carrots  2  tablespoon fuls  sugar 

i  cupful  diced  turnip  I  cupful  grape  juice 

Celery  leaves  6  cloves 

Soak  the  ham  over  night  in  cold  water  containing  a 
little  soda.  Bring  to  boiling  point  and  discard  the  water. 
Caramelize  the  sugar  in  the  braising  pan,  add  the  onion, 
and  when  well-coated  put  in  the  vegetables  and  grape 
juice.  Set  the  ham  in  place  in  the  pan,  nearly  half  cover 
with  boiling  water,  cover  and  bake  gently  in  the  oven 
till  tender.  Then  remove  the  skin,  dust  with  crumbs  and 
a  sprinkling  of  sugar,  brown  quickly  and  serve  with  grape 
juice  sauce. 

Pot-Eoast  of  Ham 

Order  a  shoulder  of  ham  boned  and  rolled.  Soak  for 
twenty-four  hours  in  water  to  cover.  Then  melt  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  fat  in  a  kettle,  add  a  cupful  of  sliced 
onions  and  a  cupful  of  diced  celery,  cooking  until  soft- 
ened. Turn  in  the  ham  and  brown  it  thoroughly. 
Barely  cover  with  boiling  water  and  simmer  gently  for 
about  four  hours ;  remove  the  meat,  then  add  the  desired 
number  of  pared  potatoes  and  boil  them.  Skin  the  ham, 
dust  thickly  with  crumbs  and  brown  in  a  hot  oven.  Sur- 
round with  the  potatoes,  garnish  with  celery  and  make  a 
thickened  sauce  of  equal  parts  of  ham  stock  and  sifted 
canned  tomato  to  accompany  it.  Thicken  with  crumbs. 

Pan-Broiled  Ham  with  Cream  Sauce 

Freshen  thin  slices  of  ham  for  ten  minutes  in  boiling 
water.  Drain  thoroughly  and  place  in  a  hissing-hot  fry- 
ing pan,  cooking  first  on  one  side,  then  on  the  other, 
until  the  edges  of  the  fat  are  browned.  Add  2  tablespoon- 
fuls of  flour  to  the  fat  remaining  in  the  pan  after  the  ham 
has  been  removed ;  turn  in  slowly  two  cupfuls  of  milk 
stirring  constantly;  add  a  dash  of  pepper  and  let  boil. 
Surround  the  ham  with  this  sauce  and  garnish  with  bits 
of  parsley. 


360  MRS.  ALLEN  S  COOK  BOOK 

Planked  Ham,  Easter  Style 

3  pounds  sliced  ham,  cut  3  i  inch  stick  cinnamon 

inches  thick  Duchess  potatoes 

i  cupful  white  grape  juice  Stuffed  tomatoes 

1  cupful  boiling  water  Parsley 

2  cloves 

Soak  the  ham  over  night  in  cold  water.  When  ready 
to  cook  it,  drain  well  and  place  in  a  baking  dish  with  the 
grape  juice,  water  and  spice.  Cover  and  cook  gently 
till  almost  done.  Then  drain  and  place  on  a  well-oiled 
hot  plank.  Put  the  tomatoes  around  the  ham,  set  in  the 
oven  and  bake  for  fifteen  minutes.  Then  pipe  on  Duchess 
potatoes  with  a  pastry  bag  and  tube,  brush  over  with 
slightly-beaten  egg  yolk,  diluted  with  a  little  milk,  brown 
quickly  and  garnish  with  parsley. 

Baked  Ham  in  Milk 

2  pounds  ham  sliced  I  inch  i  tablespoon  ful  butter 

thick  Milk 

Flour  Pepper 

Soak  the  ham  an  hour  in  warm  water;  drain,  place  on 
a  baking  platter,  sprinkle  thickly  with  flour,  season  with 
pepper,  cover  with  milk  and  dot  with  bits  of  butter. 
Bake  until  the  ham  is  tender  —  about  forty-five  minutes. 

Fried  Ham  with  Milk  Gravy 

Cut  the  ham  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Heat  a  fry- 
ing pan  and  put  in  it  a  little  of  the  fat  trimmed  from  the 
ham.  When  this  is  melted,  fry  the  ham  rather  slowly 
in  it  and  make  a  gravy  by  adding  a  tablespoonful  and  a 
half  of  flour  to  the  drippings  in  the  pan  and  slowly  a 
cupful  of  milk  for  a  cupful  of  gravy. 


SAUSAGES 

Baked  Sausages 

Gently  prick  the  sausages  and  place  them  on  a  rack  in  a 
pan.  Cook  in  a -moderate  oven  until  they  are  tender, 
which  will  take  about  twenty-five  minutes.  They  will  not 
burst  by  this  method,  and  the  sausage  fat  will  not  be 
burned,  and,  therefore,  can  be  used  for  many  culinary 
purposes. 


BAKED  PORK  CHOPS  WITH  APPLES 


BAKED  SAUSAGE  WITH  BROILED  SLICED  APPLES 


MEATS  361 

Simmered  Sausages 

Prick  the  sausages  with  a  fork.  Put  in  a  frying  pan 
with  water  to  half  cover,  and  simmer  until  they  are 
browned  and  the  water  is  almost  evaporated;  turn  oc- 
casionally during  the  process ;  then  make  a  gravy  of  the 
liquid,  thickening  it  with  flour  as  usual. 

Farm-House  Sausages 

Prick  the  sausages  with  a  fork,  and  boil  ten  to  fifteen 
minutes,  according  to  the  size.  Complete  the  cooking 
by  sauteing  until  browned.  Pare  and  core  tart  apples, 
cut  into  rings  one-half  inch  thick,  dip  in  egg  and  crumbs 
and  fry  slowly  in  the  sausage  fat  until  soft.  Serve  with 
the  sausages. 

Baked  Sausage  Potato 

1  pound  fresh  sausage  meat          i  onion  sliced 

2  quarts  raw,  sliced*  potato  Flour 
Milk 

Rub  a  baking  dish  with  drippings.  Put  in  a  layer  of 
raw  potatoes,  dust  with  flour  and  add  a  little  onion,  then 
a  layer  of  sausage.  Continue  until  all  is  used,  then  barely 
cover  with  the  milk,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  from  two 
to  two  and  a  half  hours. 

Potatoes  Stuffed  with  Sausage 

Select  potatoes  of  medium  size,  pare  them  and  cut  off 
the  tops  lengthwise  to  form  covers.  Scoop  out  the  cen- 
ters, fill  with  sausage  meat,,  and  replace  the  covers,  fas- 
tening them  in  place  with  toothpicks ;  dredge  the  potatoes 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  place  in  a  pan  containing  a  little 
meat  broth ;  bake  about  an  hour  and  a  quarter  until  ten- 
der, basting  occasionally  with,  the  broth.  Serve  with 
milk  gravy. 

BACON 

Fried  Bacon 

If  the  bacon  is  to  be  sliced  at  home,  be  sure  that  it  is 
chilled,  and  that  the  knife  is  sharp.  Have  the  frying  pan 
hot.  Put  in  the  bacon  and  turn  almost  at  once.  Whether 
or  not  it  is  to  be  cooked  crisp  depends  upon  the  variety, 


362  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

but  in  any  case  it  should  be  drained  on  crumpled  paper 
before  serving.  Generally  speaking  crisped  bacon  is  more 
digestible  than  that  which  is  fat  and  moist.  It  should 
be  cooked  so  slowly  that  the  bacon  fat  does  not  burn. 

Baked  Bacon 

Cut  off  the  bacon  rind  and  lay  the  bacon  on  a  rack  in 
a  pan ;  bake  until  crisp  —  about  twelve  minutes.  Drain 
the  fat  into  a  jar  and  keep  for  cooking  purposes. 


POULTRY  AND  GAME 

How  to  Clean  Poultry 

If  the  birds  have  not  been  cleaned  and  drawn  at  the 
butcher's,  it  will  be  necessary  for  the  housewife  to  at- 
tend to  these  details,  which  need  not  be  irksome  or  dis- 
agreeable, if  she  knows  how  to  do  it. 

First  of  all  remove  the  pin  feathers  with  a  pair  of  broad 
tweezers.  Then  singe  the  bird  by  means  of  a  little 
alcohol  which  has  been  poured  into  a  saucer  and  lighted ; 
or  if  this  is  not  at  hand  twist  up  some  newspaper  into 
thick  strips  and  use  this.  The  bird  should  be  turned  con- 
stantly so  that  it  will  be  thoroughly  singed  in  every  part. 
The  head  should  then  be  removed,  and  the  crop,  attached 
to  the  gullet  and  the  windpipe,  may  be  drawn  out  of  the 
neck  opening.  It  is»not  usually  necessary  to  make  a  slit 
in  the  neck.  The  neck  should  be  cut  off  about  two  inches 
so  that  the  skin  may  be  folded  back  to  present  a  neat 
appearance  when  the  bird  is  cooked.  The  neck  trim- 
mings should  be  saved  towards  making  stock. 

The  tendons  should  then  be  removed  from  the  legs,  for 
these  harden  on  cooking  and  form  the  flinty,  disagreeable 
substance  with  which  we 'are  all  familiar  in  the  "drum- 
sticks." Make  an  inch  slit  lengthwise  through  the  skin 
below  the  knee  joint  at  one  side;  on  laying  open  this 
skin,  the  tendons,  which  are  shiny  white  cords,  will  be 
revealed.  Slip  a  skewer  or  nail  under  each  one  and  pull 
them  out. 

Then  make  a  two-inch  opening  near  the  vent,  insert 
two  fingers,  and  gently  loosen  the  entrails.  When  every- 
thing is  loose,  grasp  gently  the  hardest  substance  —  the 


MEATS  363 

gizzard  —  and  pull  it  out.  Everything  else  will  come 
with  it.  Be  careful  not  to  press  anything  too  hard  and 
then  there  will  be  no  muss,  and  no  danger  of  breaking  the 
gall  bladder.  When  this  has  all  been  done,  insert  the 
hand  and  remove  the  spongy  substances  which  lay  under 
the  breast  in  cavities,  and  the  kidneys  which  will  be  found 
a  little  more  than  half  way  down  the  backbone  in  similar 
cavities.  Then  let  cold  water  run  through  the  bird  until 
it  is  thoroughly  cleaned.  If  the  bird  does  not  seem  white 
on  the  outside,  scrub  it  off  with  a  little  soap  and  water. 
This  treatment  is  usually  advocated  only  for  goose,  but 
it  improves  all  poultry,  unless  they  are  freshly  killed. 
If  a  bird  looks  wizened,  let  it  stand  for  a  few  minutes  in 
water  to  plump  up.  This  treatment  is  especially  good 
for  cold-storage  birds. 

Dressing  Birds  for  Broiling 

Remove  the  head  and  pin  feathers,  singe,  and  draw  the 
tendons,  as  described.  Then  with  a  sharp,  heavy  knife 
split  the  bird  down  the  back,  through  the  backbone;  the 
entrails  can  then  be  easily  removed.  If  there  is  ample 
time,  scrape  away  the  flesh  from  the  breastbone  and  lift 
that  out,  and  carefully  scrape  away  the  rib  bones  and 
remove  them.  This  makes  the  bird  much  easier  to  eat 
and  more  sightly.  The  legs  should  also  be  separated  at 
the  second  joint. 

Preparing  Birds  for  Fricassee 

Clean,  draw  and  remove  the  tendons,  as  directed.  It 
is  not  at  all  difficult  to  prepare  the  bird  for  a  fricassee 
if  the  knives  are  sharp.  Cut  off  the  legs  at  the  first  joint, 
using  a  sharp  knife,  then  separate  them  at  the  second 
joint.  This  is  easily  done  if  the  legs  are  bent.  Then 
cut  off  the  wings  and  disjoint  them.  Separate  the  breast 
from  the  back ;  divide  the  back  into  four  pieces,  slit  down 
the  breast  cutting  it  in  two.  If  desired  the  breast  halves 
may  be  subdivided.  This  makes  'the  white  meat  go  far- 
ther 

Trussing  and  Stuffing  Poultry 

First  put  a  little  stuffing  in  the  neck  and  around  at  the 
sides  where  the  crop  has  been.  Then  fold  over  the  skin 


364  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

to  the  back  and  secure  it  with  a  small  skewer ;  then  put  in 
enough  stuffing  through  the  incision  made  in  drawing 
the  chicken  to  fill  it  three-fourths  full.  If  too  much  is 
put  in,  the  stuffing  will  swell  and  the  bird  will  burst. 
First,  however,  the  oil  bag  should  be  removed.  To  do 
this,  cut  around  it  with  a  sharp  knife,  and,  after  removing, 
tuck  the  tail  into  the  opening,  and  sew  it  up  with  light- 
weight twine  and,  if  possible,  a  curved  surgical  needle 
which  can  be  kept  for  the  purpose.  Pinion  the  wings  at 
the  side  of  the  bird.  Then  take  a  long  trussing  kneedle 
—  thread  it  with  lightweight  string,  pass  it  through  the 
wing  and  directly  through  the  bird  and  through  the  other 
wing  and  then  back  again,  making  the  two  stitches  about 
one-half  inch  long.  Tie  the  string  in  a  bow-knot  so  that 
it  can  be  easily  removed  when  the  bird  is  done.  Fasten 
the  legs  in  the  same  way.  This  takes  but  two  or  three 
minutes  and  is  infinitely  superior  to  the  old-fashioned 
way  of  wrapping  a  bird  around  with  yards  of  string. 

When  the  bird  is  not  to  be  stuffed,  great  care  should 
be  taken  not  to  make  a  long  incision  in  cleaning  it,  the 
ends  of  the  drum  sticks  being  tucked  into  the  incision  be- 
fore the  bird  is  trussed. 

The  Giblets  and  Feet 

If  a  chicken  is  being  used,  the  feet  should  be  saved. 
Skin  them  and  put  them  on  to  cook  with  the  giblets.  To 
prepare  the  giblets,  wash  the  heart  and  cut  it  in  two, 
lengthwise.  Cut  off  the  gall  bladder  from  the  liver; 
this  is  an  unmistakable  green  sack,  and  great  care  must  be 
taken  not  to  break  it,  as  it  contains  a  very  bitter  sub- 
stance. Cut  through  the  thick  part  of  the  gizzard,  empty 
it  and  pull  out  the  inside  tough  skin.  Rinse  the  liver; 
put  on  to  cook  with  the  tips  of  the  wings,  the  feet  and 
the  trimmings  from  the  neck  in  a  quart  of  boiling  water. 
Use  this  stock  instead  of  water  in  making  the  gravy. 
Serve  the  giblets,  chopped  fine,  in  the  gravy,  if  desired. 
If  this  is  not  desirable,  chop  the  giblets,  and  the  next  day 
make  a  gravy  for  them  from  the  stock  and  transfer  with 
this  sauce  to  ramekins ;  break  an  egg  into  each  ramekin. 
Dot  with  salt  and  pepper  and  shir. 


MEATS  365 


STUFFINGS  FOR  BIRDS 
Bread  Stuffing 

2  cupfuls  soft  bread  crumbs          I  tablespoonful  finely-minced 
i  cupful  any  good  cooking  onion 

fat  I  teaspoonful    finely-minced 

I  teaspoonful  salt  parsley   or 

i  teaspoonful  pepper  \  teaspoonful  dry  parsley,  if 

convenient 

Combine  the  ingredients  and  moisten  to  a  paste  with 
hot  water.  To  vary  this  dressing  add  a  half  cupful  of 
minced  white  celery  leaves  or  stock,  or  moisten  it  with 
half  a  cupful  of  sifted  canned  tomato.  Sage,  thyme,  or 
poultry  seasoning  may  be  added  to  taste,  or  a  little  finely- 
minced,  left-over,  cooked  bacon  or  sausage  may  be  added. 


Prune  Stuffing 

£  cupful  unsweetened  cooked  Boiling   water   to    moisten 

prunes  cut  into  bits  I  teaspoonful  curry  powder 

1  cupful  English  walnut  \  teaspoonful   savory 
or  hickory  nut  meats  \  teaspoonful   thyme 

2  cupfuls   soft  bread  crumbs          |  teaspoonful  marjoram 
i  teaspoonful  salt  2  tablespoonfuls    butter, 
i  teaspoonful  pepper  melted 

i  tablespoonful  onion,  minced 
fine 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given,  making  the 
dressing  rather  moist. 


Chestnut  Stuffing 

Shell  and  blanch  fifty  French  chestnuts  or  two  quarts 
of  American  chestnuts.  To  do  this,  split  each  nut^with  a 
knife ;  put  on  in  cold  water,  bring  to  the  boiling  point  and 
boil  one  minute.  Drain,  add  a  little  butter  (about  2  table- 
spoonfuls),  stir  and  shake  over  the  fire,  then  remove  the 
shells  and  skins  together.  Chop  the  nuts  fine,  add  3 
tablespoonfuls  butter,  one  tablespoonful  salt,  \  teaspoon- 
ful pepper,  i  tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley,  \  tea- 
spoonful  of  powdered  thyme  and  a  cupful  of  stale  whole 
wheat  bread  crumbs.  Add  water  for  moistening  if  neces- 
sary. 


366  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Potato  and  Walnut  Stuffing  for  Goose 

3  cupfuls  fresh  mashed  po-  I  teaspoonful  poultry  season- 

tatp  ing 

i  onion  grated  ii  teaspoonftils  salt 

I  cupful  walnut  meats  i  tablespoonful  butter 

1  teaspoonful  pepper  \  cupful  milk 

i  egg 

Mix  in  the  order  given  and  use  at  once. 
Peanut  Stuffing  for  Duck 

2  cupfuls  whole  wheat  bread          3  tablespoonful s  melted  pea- 
crumbs  nut  butter 

i  cupful  peanuts,  chopped  \  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

Salt  and  pepper  Few  grains  paprika 

Hot  cream  to  moisten 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given. 
Malaga  Stuffing 

2i  cupfuls  soft  bread  crumbs          i  egg  (if  desired) 

3  tablespoonfuls  melted  but-          i  cupful    halved    and    seeded 
ter  or  oleomargarine  Malaga  grapes 

\  teaspoonful   salt  Boiling  water  to  moisten 

&  teaspoonful  pepper 

Combine  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given,  making 
the  stuffing  rather  moist. 

Steamed  Chicken 

Dress  the  chicken  as  for  roasting,  but  do  not  stuff  it. 
Truss  as  directed  and  brown  the  chicken  all  over  in 
drippings,  melted  chicken  fat,  or  bacon  fat  if  the  flavor 
is  liked.  Dust  with  salt  and  pepper.  Place  on  a  platter 
or  in  a  pan  that  will  fit  into  a  steamer  and  steam  until 
tender  —  about  an  hour  and  a  quarter  for  a  three  or  four 
pound  chicken.  Fowl  may  be  prepared  in  this  way,  but 
it  will  be  necessary  to  steam  it  for  four  hours.  In  this 
case  lay  two  or  three  small  pieces  of  bacon  on  the  breast 
of  the  fowl. 

Roast  Chicken 

Dress,  stuff  and  truss  the  chicken  as  directed.  Rub 
lightly  with  butter  or  oleomargarine  and  dust  thickly 
with  flour,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Place  on  a  rack 
in  a  dripping  pan,  or  in  a  double  roaster,  allowing  a  little 
of  the  flour,  about  2.\  tablespoonfuls,  to  fall  on  the  bot- 


MEATS  367 

torn  of  the  pan.  Place  in  a  hot  oven  and  let  stand  until 
the  flour  in  the  pan  is  colored  a  light  brown.  Then  add 
boiling  water  barely  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  to- 
gether with  some  bits  of  butter,  a  little  melted  chicken 
fat,  some  drippings  or  some  bacon  fat,  if  the  flavor  is  de- 
sired. Baste  the  chicken  with  this  mixture  and  replenish 
the  liquid  if  it  evaporates  too  fast.  Roast  a  five-pound 
chicken  one  and  one-half  hours,  or  allow  eighteen  min- 
utes to  the  pound. 

Reduce  the  heat  after  the  flour  is  browned,  as,  other- 
wise, the  chicken  will  be  dry,  instead  of  juicy  and  tender. 
The  drippings  in  the  pan,  with  a  little  hot  water,  which 
may  be  added  slowly  to  them,  will  make  a  gravy  of  suf- 
ficient thickness  without  adding  any  more  flour.  Salt 
and  pepper,  hot  milk,  hot  cream,  a  little  cooked  celery, 
or  a  dozen  small  oysters  may  be  added  to  the  chicken 
gravy. 

Chicken  or  Duck  Roasted  Tinder  the  Gas  Flame 

See  general  directions  for  roasting  by  this  method,  and 
allow  twenty  minutes  to  the  pound. 

Broiled  Chicken 

Dress  the  chicken  as  directed.  Then  sprinkle  with 
salt  and  pepper,  place  in  well-oiled  broiler,  flesh  side  up, 
and  broil  five  minutes.  Turn  to  brown  the  skin.  Place 
in  a  dripping  pan  with  a  little  stock,  and  dot  with  bits  of 
butter.  Cover  with  a  second  pan  and  set  in  a  hot  oven 
twenty  minutes.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  a  sauce  made 
from  the  drippings,  if  desired. 

Chicken  Stew,  with  Dumplings 

Remove  all  the  meat  that  remains  on  the  framework 
of  broiled,  fricasseed  or  roast  chicken.  Add  to  the  bones 
6  cupfuls  cold  water  (for  one  chicken)  or  10  cupfuls  for 
two.  Turn  in  any  remaining  gravy,  bits  of  skin,  etc., 
add  one-half  a  small  onion,  minced,  for  the  first  quantity, 
and  a  few  dried  celery  leaves,  and  bit  of  bay  leaf. 
Cover  closely  and  bring  slowly  to  boiling  point,  then  sim- 
mer for  two  hours.  Strain,  remove  the  fat  and  add  \  cup- 
ful of  brown  or  uncoated  rice,  the  bits  of  chicken  and  a 
cupful  of  peas  if  convenient.  Boil  till  the  rice  is  almost 


368  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

tender  (about  fifteen  minutes),  season  and  set  dumplings 
on  top  of  the  stew  to  cook.  Boil  twelve  minutes  longer, 
and  serve  at  once. 

Old-Fashioned  Chicken  Pot-Pie 

i   (3-pound)    fowl  i  cupful  cream 

i  cupful  fat  salt  pork,  diced  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

3  cupfuls  boiling  water  Short  biscuit  crust 

4  tablespoon fuls  flour 

Clean  and  disjoint  the  fowl.  Heat  a  small  iron  pot 
and  put  the  salt  pork  in  it.  Try  out  the  fat,  then  toss 
in  the  chicken,  and  cook  until  well-browned.  Add  the 
water,  cover  and  let  simmer  over  the  heat  or  in  the  oven 
till  tender.  Season,  add  the  flour  and  cream,  blended, 
let  boil  up  once  and  set  the  paste  in  position  in  a  casserole 
as  follows :  Cut  a  strip  two  inches  wide  and  line  the  in- 
side of  the  casserole.  Pour  in  the  chicken  mixture,  set  a 
round  cover  in  place  over  the  top  of  the  boiling  liquid, 
and  pinch  the  two  edges  together ;  set  in  the  oven,  and 
bake  till  light  brown.  Invert  on  a  platter,  and  serve 
surrounded  with  buttered  peas  or  asparagus  tips. 

Potted  Chicken 

Select  a  fowl  weighing  from  four  to  six  pounds.  Singe 
and  clean,  then  brown  all  over  in  beef  or  bacon  drippings. 
Slightly  fry  an  onion,  a  cupful  of  celery  tips  and  diced 
stalks  and  a  half  cupful  of  carrots ;  add  the  chicken,  and 
a  little  boiling  water;  put  in  two  cloves,  six  peppercorns, 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  bit  of  bay  leaf,  and  simmer  until 
tender  —  about  four  hours,  replenishing  the  water  as 
needed.  Serve  with  a  gravy  made  from  the  stock,  thick- 
ened with  cooked  brown  or  uncoated  rice. 

Chicken  Fricassee 

Dress,  clean  and  cut  up  a  fowl  according  to  the  general 
directions.  Put  the  pieces  in  a  kettle  with  4  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  drippings ;  let  them  brown  slightly  on  both  sides, 
but  take  care  they  do  not  burn.  When  slightly  browned, 
add  enough  boiling  water  to  cover,  salt  and  pepper  and  a 
bouquet  of  herbs.  Simmer  until  tender,  about  three  hours 
for  a  fowl,  and  one  and  one-half  hours  for  chicken. 
Make  a  sauce  of  2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  or  oleomar- 


MEATS  369 

garine  and  4  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  Add  to  it  slowly 
2  cupfuls  of  the  liquid  in  which  the  chicken  was  cooked. 
Season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  Arrange  toast  or 
split  biscuits  on  a  hot  dish,  place  the  chicken  on  the  bread 
and  pour  over  the  sauce.  A  border  of  boiled  brown  or 
uncoated  rice  may  surround  the  chicken  if  the  toast  or 
biscuits  are  not  used. 

Fried  Chicken 

Select  a  young  chicken.  Disjoint  and  cut  up  as  for 
fricassee.  Roll  each  piece  in  flour  and  brown  in  a  frying 
pan  in  equal  parts  of  lard  and  butter,  dusting  the  chicken, 
as  it  cooks,  with  salt  and  pepper.  Turn  only  once.  This 
browning  process  should  take  about  twenty  minutes,  and, 
after  this  length  of  time,  the  meat  should  be  cooked 
through.  Then  place  the  chicken  in  a  pan,  or  on  a  plat- 
ter, dot  with  a  little  extra  butter  and  steam  it  for  an  hour. 
This  will  make  it  very  tender. 

Make  a  gravy  of  the  drippings  in  the  frying  pan ;  add 
additional  flour,  if  judgment  so  dictates,  and  use  thin 
cream  or  rich  hot  milk  as  the  liquid. 

Plain  Chicken  Casserole 

Dress  and  disjoint  a  chicken,  according  to  the  general 
directions.  Roll  in  flour,  dust  with  salt  and  pepper,  pack 
in  a  casserole,  and  barely  cover  with  boiling  water. 
Cook  gently  until  the  chicken  is  tender,  about  one  and 
three-quarter  hours.  Serve  plain  with  the  resulting 
gravy  or  add  a  half  cupful  of  sweet  or  slightly  sour 
cream  to  the  gravy,  together  with  a  little  extra  thickening 
to  make  up  for  the  dilution.  Fowl  may  be  used  in  the 
same  way,  if  four  hours  are  allowed  for  the  cooking. 

Chicken  Casserole,  Southern  Style 

i  3-pound  chicken  I  tablespoon ful  minced  on- 

4  tablespoonfuls  beef   drip-  ion 

pings  4  cupful  flour 

I  tablespoonful  minced  pars-  ii  cupfuls  sifted  stewed  to- 

ley  matoes 

i  tablespoonful  minced  car-  i*  teaspoonfuls  salt 

rot  I  teaspoon  ful  pepper 

i  tablespoonful  minced  tur-  Few  grains  cayenne 

nip  2  to  3  cupfuls  boiling  stock 
3  shredded  green  peppers 


370  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Dissect  the  chicken,  roll  in  flour  and  brown  it  in  the 
beef  drippings,  together  with  the  vegetables.  Put  the 
chicken  in  layers  in  the  casserole,  sprinkling  the  vege- 
tables and  the  flour,  mixed  with  the  seasonings,  between 
each  layer.  Then  pour  over  the  tomato  puree  and  stock 
to  cover,  put  on  the  lid  and  bake  an  hour  and  a  half  to 
two  hours  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Chicken  Casserole,  Spanish  Style 

I  2-  or  3-pound  chicken  or  2  sweet  peppers 

fowl  i  cupful  sifted  canned  tomato 

I  cupful  finely-chopped  i  tablespoonful    butter 

tongue  Salt  to  taste 

i  cupful  brown  or  uncoated 
rice 

Dissect  the  chicken  as  in  the  general  directions,  ar- 
range in  a  kettle,  almost  cover  with  water  and  simmer  till 
tender.  Then  remove  the  skin,  replace  the  chicken  in 
the  broth,  add  the  tongue,  the  rice,  the  sweet  peppers, 
boiled  and  minced,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  When  the 
rice  is  tender,  add  the  tomato  and  butter,  and  serve  in  a 
border  of  additional  rice. 

Chicken  Pot  Pourrie 

1  4-pound  fowl  i  teaspoonful  salt 

4  tablespoonfnls  minced  ham          4  cupfuls   stock  or  water 

2  tablespoonfuls   minced  2  cupfuls  stewed  tomatoes 
onion  i  cupful  spaghetti 

i  shredded  green  pepper  or  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

pimento 

Clean  and  disjoint  the  fowl.  Melt  4  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter  or  fresh  drippings  in  a  frying  pan,  add  the  onion, 
ham  and  fowl  and  cook  until  the  latter  is  browned. 
Then  put  in  a  large  casserole  with  the  pepper,  stock  or 
water,  t*he  spaghetti  and  the  tomato.  Cover  closely  and 
bake  gently  till  tender,  about  two  hours.  Season  to 
taste  with  salt  and  pepper. 

Chicken  Maryland 

Disjoint  two  broilers,  or  "  frys,"  or  a  three-  or  four- 
pound  roasting  chicken,  as  for  fricassee.  Roll  in  melted 
bacon  drippings  or  butter,  season  with  a  little  salt  and 
pepper,  then  roll  in  flour  and  place  skin  side  up  in  a 


MEATS  371 

dripping  pan.  Put  a  small  strip  of  salt  pork  or  bacon  on 
each  piece,  set  in  a  quick  oven  and,  when  the  flour  begins 
to  brown,  add  a  little  water  to  the  pan.  Baste  every  ten 
minutes,  and,  after  the  chicken  is  well-browned,  cover  it. 
A  double  roaster  is  excellent  for  this  purpose.  Cook 
until  the  meat  is  tender,  from  forty-five  minutes  to  an 
hour,  and  serve  with  White  Sauce  No.  2,  made  with 
equal  parts  of  milk  and  cream. 

Chicken  Italian 

1  fowl  2  cupfuls  tomato  pulp 
6  green  peppers  Salt  and  pepper 

2  onions  3  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 

Boil  the  fowl  till  tender,  then  disjoint  and  skin  it. 
Shred  the  peppers  and  onions  and  cook,  till  softened,  in 
the  olive  oil.  Add  to  the  tomato  pulp,  season,  and  pour 
very  hot  over  the  chicken. 

Boned  Chicken  a  la  Royale 

Dress  a  large  chicken,  fill  with  stuffing  d  la  Royale. 
Truss,  and  lay  on  strips  of  bacon  or  salt  pork.  Place  in 
a  deep  baking  dish  or  casserole  in  the  oven,  pouring 
around  a  pint  of  consomme.  Baste  frequently,  and, 
when  almost  done,  remove  the  cover  and  let  the  chicken 
brown.  Strain  the  sauce,  thicken  as  for  gravy,  add  | 
cupful  of  fresh  mushrooms  sauted.  Serve  with  a  gar- 
nish of  the  remaining  stuffing  baked  in  small  timbales. 

Chicken  Stuffing  a  la  Royale 

4  cupfuls  bread  crumbs  I  teaspoonful  thyme    (pow- 

2  cupfuls  minced  ham  dered) 

i  cupful   dried   mushrooms,  \  teaspoonful  sweet  mar- 
soaked  and  chopped  joram 

i  tablespoonful  minced  pars-  i  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

ley  2  egg  yolks 

Milk  to  moisten  i  cupful   melted   butter 

il  teaspoonfuls  salt  Grating  nutmeg 

i   teaspoonful   pepper 

Put  together  in  the  order  given ;  moisten  with  milk, 
and  use. 

Cold  Chicken  Glace 

Boil  a  chicken  or  young  fowl,  until  tender,  in  salted 
water  containing  a  little  celery  seed,  bit  of  bay  leaf,  slice 


372  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

of  onion  and  a  little  lemon  peel.  Cool,  disjoint  and  re- 
move the  skin.  Cook  down  the  broth  to  one-fourth  the 
original  amount,  when  it  will  have  the  consistency  of  a 
sauce.  While  still  warm,  dip  the  chicken  pieces  in  it, 
drain  and  set  away  to  cool  in  the  refrigerator.  The 
chicken  will  then  be  covered  with  a  thin  shining  gelatine, 
which  gives  a  glossy,  inviting  effect.  Serve  arranged  on 
a  bed  of  watercress. 

Chicken  Mousse  Loaf 

4  cupfnls  chopped,  cooked  2  tablespoonfuls    granulated 

chicken  gelatine,   dissolved   in 

2  cupfuls  boiling  chicken  4  tablespoonfuls  cold  stock 
stock,  well  seasoned 

Add  the  gelatine  to  the  boiling  stock  and  stir  until  dis- 
solved. Add  the  chicken.  Then  prepare  the  second  mix- 
ture consisting  of 

1  cupful  heavy  cream  21  tablespoonfuls    granulated 

2  cupfuls  chicken  stock  gelatine,   dissolved  in 

4  tablespoonfuls   cold   stock 

Add  the  gelatine  to  the  boiling  stock,  and,  when  partly 
set,  fold  in  the  cream,  whipped  stiff. 

In  the  bottom  of  an  oval  mould  rubbed  lightly  with 
olive  oil,  arrange  a  poinsettia  blossom  with  petals  cut  f  rOm 
pimentoes  and  a  slice  of  hard-cooked  egg  yolk  as  a  cen- 
ter, and  parsley  as  a  stem,  fastening  it  in  place  with 
melted  gelatine.  When  "  set "  pour  in  an  inch  layer  of 
the  cream  mixture,  let  almost  stiffen,  and  add  a  layer  of 
chicken,  continuing  until  all  is  used.  At  serving  time 
unmould  on  a  large  platter,  garnished  with  lettuce  and 
parsley,  and  surround  with  cups  hollowed  from  beets, 
rilled  with  salad  dressing. 

Roast  Duck 

Dress  and  clean  the  duck  as  in  general  directions. 
Stuff  with  apples,  pared  and  cored,  to  absorb  the  flavor. 
Truss,  place  on  a  rack  in  a  dripping  pan  with  two  thin 
slices  of  salt  pork  on  the  breast.  Dredge  the  duck  and 
the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  flour.  When  this  is  brown, 
add  a  half  cupful  of  hot  water.  Baste  every  fifteen 
minutes  until  done.  It  will  take  from  one  to  one  and 
one-quarter  hours  for  a  domestic  duck,  thirty  minutes  for 


MEATS  373 

a  wild  duck.  Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper  during  the 
last  fifteen  minutes  of  cooking.  Make  a  brown  gravy  as 
for  other  roasts.  This  stuffing  is  not  to  be  eaten.  If  an 
onion  flavor  is  desired,  place  onions  in  the  bird  instead 
of  apples.  If  the  stuffing  is  to  be  eaten,  use  a  plain  prune, 
peanut,  malaga  or  walnut  and  potato  stuffing. 

Smothered  Duck 

i  2-  or  3-pound  duck  3  tablespoonfuls  flour 

i  small  minced  onion  Stock  to  half  cover  duck 

Salt -and  pepper  i  pint  green  peas 

I  minced  sage  leaf  Soy  sauce 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or                Sprinkling  of  dried  mint 
drippings 

Dress  the  duck,  dredge  with  salt  and  pepper,  place  the 
onion  and  sage  inside  the  body  and  partially  roast  the 
bird.  Set  in  a  deep  baking-dish  or  casserole,  and  half 
cover  with  hot  stock,  using  about  four  cupfuls.  Thicken 
with  butter  and  flour  rubbed  together,  season,  if  neces- 
sary, and. add  the  peas  and  a  trace  of  mint.  Let  bake  or 
stew  till  tender,  about  thirty  minutes  longer.  Season 
with  soy  sauce.  Serve  with  hominy  croquettes  and  sour 
cabbage. 

Brown  Duck 

1  3-pound  duck  Bit  of  bay  leaf 

2  tablespoonfuls   minced  3  tablespoonfuls   flour 
onion  i  cupful  mushrooms 

4  tablespoonfuls    beef    drip-  Stock 

pings 

Dress  and  disjoint  the  duck.  Dredge  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  brown  with  the  onion  in  the  drippings.  Add 
the  bay  leaf,  half  cover  with  good  soup  stock  and  sim- 
mer until  almost  tender  —  about  two  hours.  Then  add 
the  mushrooms  cut  in  bits,  and  finish  cooking.  Thicken 
with  the  flour  diluted  in  a  little  cold  water,  and  serve 
very  hot. 

Roast  Goose 

Scrub  the  goose  on  the  outside  with  soap  and  water, 
and  rinse  thoroughly.  Then  dress  as  in  general  direc- 
tions, rinsing  well,  and  hang  up  for  a  few  hours  to  drain. 
Season  the  inside  with  a  little  powdered  sage,  salt  and 
pepper.  If  desired,  it  may  be  stuffed,  although  this  is 
not  customary  with  a  young  goose.  After  trussing  place 


374  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

on  a  rack  in  the  pan  and  cook  an  hour ;  then  pour  off  the 
fat  in  the  pan  and  dredge  the  bird  with  flour,  sprinkle 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  lay  slices  of  salt  pork  along  the 
breast.  When  the  flour  is  browned,  baste  the  goose 
often  with  salted  hot  water,  dredging  with  flour  each 
time  as  well.  Cook  until  the  joints  separate  easily  — 
from  one  and  one-half  to  three  hours.  If  the  goose  is  a 
year  or  more  old,  it  should  be  steamed  until  nearly  ten- 
der, then  floured  and  browned. 

In  making  the  gravy  pour  off  most  of  the  fat  in  the 
pan,  then  make  as  usual ;  the  chopped,  cooked  giblets  are 
an  addition.  If  dressing  is  to  be  used,  the  most  satisfac- 
tory is  of  potato  and  walnuts. 

Roast  Turkey 

Dress  and  truss  the  turkey  according  to  general  direc- 
tions. Use  any  desired  stuffing  —  plain  stuffing  with 
celery,  or  one  containing  chestnuts.  When  trussed,  rub 
the  turkey  all  over  with  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  but- 
ter and  flour.  Place  on  a  rack  in  a  dripping  pan  and 
set  in  a  double  roaster.  Bake  according  to  general  direc- 
tions, basting  every  fifteen  minutes.  Allow  three  hours 
for  a  turkey  weighing  eight  to  ten  pounds. 

Boiled  Turkey 

i  turkey  Grated  rind  I  lemon 

6  cupfuls  bread  crumbs  £  cupful  chopped  suet 

i  teaspoonful  sage  i  egg 

i  teaspoonful  thyme  i£  teaspoon fuls  salt 

1  teaspoonful   marjoram  Pepper 

2  anchovies  or  sardines,  Boiling   water 
chopped 

Make  a  dressing  of  the  above  ingredients.  Stuff  the 
turkey,  leaving  space  for  the  filling  to  swell ;  sew  it  up, 
truss  it  and  wrap  in  cheesecloth.  Set  to  cook  in  boiling 
salted  water  barely  to  cover  and  simmer  until  tender  — 
two  hours  for  a  young  turkey  and  four  for  an  old  one. 
Serve  with  oyster  or  celery  sauce. 

Boiled  Turkey  with  Oyster  Forcemeat 
Prepare  a  turkey  for  boiling,  as  in  the  preceding  recipe, 
substituting    oyster    forcemeat    for    the    dressing    men- 
tioned.    Finish    as    directed   and    serve   garnished    with 
oyster  forcemeat  dumplings. 


CHICKEN  POT  POURRI 


CHICKEN  MOUSSE  LOAF 


MEATS  375 

Oyster  Forcemeat  Dumplings 

i  small    loaf    stale    bread,  ij  teaspoonfuls  salt 

grated  J   cupful   melted   butter,   or 
i  pint  oysters,   well-drained  other  fat 

Grated  rind  i  lemon  3  eggs 

Few  grains  nutmeg  A    little   cream    or    undiluted 
i  teaspoonful  pepper  evaporated  milk  to  moisten 

Chop  the  oysters  fine,  add  to  the  grated  crumbs  to- 
gether with  the  other  ingredients  and  mix  very  thor- 
oughly. This  is  sufficient  to  stuff  a  small  turkey  and  to 
allow  for  a  few  small  dumpKngs.  To  prepare  these, 
make  the  mixture  into  egg-sized  balls  and  poach  them  in 
the  turkey  liquor  for  twenty  minutes  before  the  bird  is  to 
be  served. 

Broiled  Squabs 

Truss  the  squabs  according  to  general  directions ;  dust 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  pour  over  a  little  melted  butter. 
Broil  flesh  side  to  the  heat  until  browned,  then  turn  and 
broil  the  skin  side.  Finish  the  cooking  in  the  oven, 
which  will  take  about  twenty-five  minutes. 

Serve  on  slices  of  toast  moistened  with  the  residue 
from  the  pan,  and  spread  lightly  with  tart  currant,  or 
barberry,  jelly. 

Casserole  of  Stuffed  Pigeons 

Allow  a  pigeon  to  each  person.  Stuff  with  brown  or 
wild  rice  boiled  with  a  bit  of  bay  leaf  and  highly  seasoned 
with  onion  juice  and  celery  salt.  Truss  the  pigeons, 
roast  them  till  well-browned  in  a  hot  oven,  then  transfer 
to  a  casserole ;  pour  over  the  drippings  from  the  baking 
pan,  half  surround  with  stock,  cover  and  bake  gently  for 
an  ,hour,  then  remove  the  birds,  thicken  the  remaining 
stock  and  season  it  with  tart  currant  jelly. 

Pigeon  Pie 

3  pigeons,    dressed   and  split          i  cupful  peas 

Bit  of  bay  leaf  3  cupfuls  boiling  water 

i  cupful  diced  celery  i  cupful  cream 

6  tablespoonfuls   flour  4  tablespoonfuls   butter 

Salt  pork  Short  biscuit  crust 

Dress  and  split  the  pigeons,  dredge  with  flour,  saute 
(fry)  slightly  in  salt  pork  fat  and  place  in  a  casserole  or 
braising  dish.  Add  thf  bay  leaf,  celery  and  boiling 


376  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

water.  Bring  all  to  boiling  point  and  let  simmer  until  - 
tender,  about  one  and  one-half  hours,  adding  2  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  salt  at  the  end  of  an  hour.  Thicken  with  the 
butter  and  flour  rubbed  together,  add  the  peas  and  let 
boil.  Turn  in  the  cream,  scalded,  season  to  taste,  pour 
into  a  baking  dish,  and  set  the  crust  quickly  in  place. 
Bake  until  browned. 

Woodchuck,  Clover  Style 

After  removing  the  pelt,  place  the  animal  on  ice  for 
twenty-four  hours,  then  dress  as  rabbit.  That  is,  split 
the  body  lengthwise  (including  the  head)  and  carefully 
remove  all  the  organs,  especially  the  little  bunches  or 
"  kernels "  under  the  forepaws,  which  will  otherwise 
impart  a  strong  flavor  to  the  game.  Stand  thirty  minutes 
in  cold,  salted  water,  then  drain,  wipe  dry  and  sprinkle 
liberally  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  dash  of  curry.  Stuff 
with  prune  dressing  and  sew  carefully  into  shape.  The 
animal  is  now  ready  to  <k  truss."  To  accomplish  this 
successfully,  cut  the  sinews  under  both  front  and  hind 
paws,  bending  the  forepaws  backward  and  the  hindpaws 
forward,  pinning  each  securely  into  position  by  means  of 
skewers.  Tie  a  string  around  the  animal's  neck,  then 
catch  it  on  the  first  set  of  skewers,  pass  around  the  body 
and  fasten  securely  on  the  second  set.  Wrap  in  cheese- 
cloth, and  plunge  into  spiced  boiling  water  to  cover,  sim- 
mering it  one  hour. 

The  water  should  contain : 

i  slice  of  onion  I  tablespoonful  vinegar 

i  bay  leaf  i  teaspoonful    salt 

A  2-inch  stick  cinnamon 

.  Remove  the  cheesecloth  and  place  the  woodchuck  in  a 
baking  pan,  and  dredge  with  J  cupful  flour,  allowing  part 
of  it  to  fall  upon  the  pan.  Insert  a  narrow  strip  of  bacon 
along  the  back.  When  the  flour  browns,  baste  every  ten 
minutes,  for  an  hour,  with  3  cupfuls  of  hot  water,  con- 
taining ^  cupful  of-  butter,  and  a  few  spices. 

Remove  the  skewers  and  string ;  lay  the  woodchuck  on 
a  bed  of  clover  blossoms  and  leaves  (as  that  is  the  favorite 
food  of  the  little  animal)  and  garnish  with  strips  of 
bacon  and  lemon  slices,  alternately  on  back,  bits  of 
pimentoes  in  the  eye  sockets  and  a  slice  of  lemon  in  the 


MEATS  377 

mouth.  Serve  with  the  gravy  from  the  baking  pan,  fur- 
ther seasoned  with  J  cupful  of  stuffed  olives,  sliced,  2 
tablespoonfuls  minced  cooked  onion,  and  J  cupful  sliced 
cooked  carrots.  The  flavor  is  delicious  —  a  cross  be- 
tween duck  and  squirrel,  yet  more  delicate  than  either. 

Planked  Guinea  Chicken 

1  2-pound  guinea  chicken  I  tablespoonful  minced  pars- 
24  cooked  asparagus  tips  ley 

4  green  pepper  rings        ,  i  tablespoonful  minced  pim- 

Duchess  potatoes  ento 

3  lemon   slices 

Singe  the  guinea  chicken,  remove  the  pin  feathers  and 
split  the  chicken  down  the  back,  removing  the  entrails. 
Wash  well  and  dry.  Dust  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put 
the  plank  in  the  oven  to  become  hot,  then  partly  broil  the 
guinea  chicken;  brush  the  plank  over  with  butter,  set  the 
chicken  on  it,  skin  side  up,  and  finish  cooking  in  a  hot 
oven.  Altogether,  it  will  take  from  thirty-five  to  forty- 
five  minutes.  Prepare  the  asparagus  tips,  putting  six  in 
each  pepper  ring.  Pipe  Duchess  potatoes  about  the 
chicken  in  ribbons  and  rosettes,  with  a  pastry  bag  and 
tube,  brush  with  slightly-beaten  egg  yolk  diluted  with  a 
little  milk  and  brown  quickly  in  the  oven.  Set  bundles 
of  asparagus  in  place,  two  on  each  side,  and  make 
wreaths  of  parsley  and  cranberries  cooked  in  syrup  at 
either  end.  Cover  half  of  each  lemon  slice  with  minced 
parsley  and  the  remaining  half  with  pimento,  and  place 
on  the  breast  of  the  chicken. 

Squirrel  Stew 

2  gray  squirrels,  cleaned  and          I  cupful  minced  carrots 
disjointed  i  cupful  brown  or  uncoated 

2  onions  diced  rice 

i  green  pepper,  shredded  2  tablespoonfuls   flour 

i  cupful  diced  celery  »  Salt  and  pepper 

Put  the  squirrels  on  to  simmer  in  two  quarts  of  boiling 
water,  adding  water  as  it  evaporates  to  keep  the  amount 
constant.  When  tender  remove  the  meat  from  the  bones, 
crack  the  bones  and  return  them  to  the  broth  to  cook  an 
hour  longer.  Dice  the  meat,  dust  it  in  the  flour  and  set 
aside.  Saute  (fry)  the  vegetables  in  butter  or  oleomar- 
garine until  soft  and  yellowed ;  add  to  the  broth  with  the 


378  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

rice,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  little  pepper ;  cook  until 
the  rice  and  vegetables  are  done.  Then  add  the  floured 
squirrel  meat  and  let  it  boil  about  three  minutes. 

Casserole  of  Squirrel 

2  gray  squirrels  cleaned  and  il  cupfnls  celery,  diced 

disjointed  I  cupful   diced  tart  apple 

1  cupful  brown  or  uncoated  Salt  and  pepper 
rice  Flour 

2  green  peppers,  minced 

Roll  the  squirrel  sections  in  the  flour,  and  lay  in  the 
casserole;  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper  and  lay  on  the 
rice  and  some  of  the  vegetables  and  apple.  Continue  in 
this  way  until  all  is  used,  cover  with  boiling  water,  and 
bake  gently  until  the  meat  is  tender,  renewing  the  water 
occasionally  as  is  necessary.  The  exact  length  of  time 
cannot  be  given,  as  it  depends  upon  the  age  of  the  squir- 
rel. 

Pheasant  with  Oysters 

2^  cupfuls   cold,   cooked  3  tablespoonfuls  flour 

pheasant,  diced  3  tablespoonfuls   butter 

i  tablespoonful    minced  2  cupfuls  cream  or  rich  milk 

green  pepper  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

i  pint  small  oysters,  steamed 

Fry  the  green  pepper  in  the  butter,  gently,  until  soft, 
then  add  the  flour,  seasonings,  and  gradually  the  cream 
to  make  a  sauce.  Stir  in  the  pheasant,  add  the  oysters 
and  serve  on  buttered  toast,  with  boiled  brown  or  wild 
rice. 

Kabbit  Pie 

i  large  rabbit  Boiling  stock 

i  cupful  minced  onion  Mace,  salt  and  pepper 

i  cupful  minced  celery  2  tablespoonfuls   drippings 

Flour  Short  biscuit  crust 

Dress  the  rabbit  (see  Woodchuck,  Clover  Style)  and 
boil  until  tender  in  salted  water  containing  a  little  vine- 
gar. Then  drain  and  roll  in  as  much  flour  as  it  will  take 
up.  Melt  the  drippings  in  a  frying  pan,  add  the  onion 
and  celery  and  brown  the  meat.  Add  stock  barely  to 
cover;  season  to  taste  with  mace,  salt  and  pepper  and 
pour  into  a  well-oiled  baking  dish.  Cut  the  crust  in 
rounds,  set  in  the  boiling  liquid  and  bake  until  the  crust  is 
'done  —  about  twenty-five  minutes. 


MEATS  379 

Hasenpeffer 

Dissect  a  large  rabbit  (see  Woodchuck,  Clover  Style)  ; 
wash  well  and  put  it  in  a  crock  with  i^  cupfuls  sliced 
onions,  ij  teaspoonfuls  salt,  £  teaspoonful  pepper  and  3 
teaspoon fuls  pickle  spice.  Cover  with  weak  vinegar  and 
let  stand  three  days  in  a  cool  place.  Then  drain,  add  water 
barely  to  cover  and  simmer  until  tender.  Rub  together 
a  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  or 
drippings  for  each  cupful  of  liquid  and  thicken  the  meat 
with  it.  Add  a  dash  of  sharp  vinegar  and  more  season- 
ings if  necessary. 

Sometimes  the  flour  is  omitted  and  the  mixture  is 
thickened  with  crumbled  gingersnaps. 


LEFT-OVER  MEATS 

Hash 

Chop  the  meat  fine,  but  do  not  put  it  through  the  food 
chopper ;  add  half  as  much  chopped  cold,  cooked  potato 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  s£raped  onion  to  each  two  cupfuls 
of  the  hash  mixture.  Season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pep- 
per and  moisten  with  milk  or  gravy.  Turn  the  mixture 
into  a  heated  frying  pan  containing  sufficient  melted  drip- 
pings to  prevent  sticking.  Press  down  flat  and  cook 
slowly  until  browned  on  the  bottom.  Fold  over  like  an 
omelet  for  serving. 

Hash  Timbales 

Generously  oil  timbale  moulds,  or  custard  cups,  with 
savory  drippings,  then  dust  them  thickly  with  fine,  dry 
bread  crumbs.  Pack  in  hash  prepared  according  to  the 
preceding  recipe,  dust  with  crumbs  and  bake  twenty  min- 
utes in  a  hot  oven.  Tip  out  on  a  hot  platter  and  serve 
surrounded  with  tomato  sauce. 

Baked  Ham  Hash 

ij  cupfuls  chopped  ham  4  tablespoonfuls  chopped 
2  cupfuls    chopped    cooked  green  peppers 

potato  2  cupfuls   milk 

2  cupfuls  chopped  celery  Salt  and  pepper 
2  tablespoonfuls  chopped 

onion 


380  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Mix  all  the  ingredients  together  and  turn  into  a  frying 
pan  containing  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  fat.  Cover 
and  bake  for  half  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven.  Then 
fold,  as  in  making  an  omelet,  and  serve  plain,  or  with  a 
tomato  or  cream  sauce. 

Beef  and  Tomato  Pie 

4  cupfuls  chopped  cooked  Onion  juice  to  season 

beef  Mashed  potatoes 

I  pint    well-seasoned    stewed  Dry  bread  crumbs    (white 

tomatoes  or  whole  wheat) 

Oil  a  baking  dish  with  savory  drippings,  put  in  a  layer 
of  the  tomato  mixed  with  the  onion  juice,  then  a  few 
crumbs  and  then  a  layer  of  meat.  Continue  in  this  way 
until  all  is  used ;  then  pile  on  the  potato,  roughly.  Brush 
with  milk  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for  thirty  min- 
utes. 

Beef -Balls  with  Rice 

3  cupfuls    cooked    beef,  £  teaspoonful  salt 

minced  Few  grains  pepper 

1  cupfuls  soft  bread  crumbs          i  egg 

£  cupful  gravy  or  stock  \  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

Cook  the  crumbs  and  gravy  until  pasty;  combine  all  the 
ingredients,  let  chill,  form  into  balls,  roll  in  flour  and 
brown  in  beef  drippings.  Serve  on  a  bed  of  boiled 
brown  or  uncoated  rice,  with  tomato  sauce. 

Creamed  Corned  Beef 

2  cupfuls  diced  corned  beef  2'i  tablespoonfuls    flour 
2  cupfuls  milk  Stalk  celery 

2  tablespoonfuls   butter    or  I  slice  onion 
drippings  \  teaspoonful  pepper 

I  teaspoonful  salt 

Scald  the  milk  with  the  celery  and  onion.  Remove  the 
vegetables,  rub  the  flour  and  fat  together  and  thicken  the 
milk.  Add  the  meat  and  seasonings,  re-heat  and  serve 
on  toast.  A  cupful  of  peas  is  an  addition. 

Escalloped  Corned  Beef 

3  cupfuls  coarsely-chopped  \  cupful  flour 
corned  beef                                    2?  cupfuls  milk 

i  chopped  onion  i  teaspoonful  salt 

i  cupful  chopped  celery  Few  grains  mustard 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  \  cupful  buttered  dry  bread 

drippings  crumbs 


MEATS  381 

Fry  the  onions  and  celery  in  the  butter  till  softened; 
stir  in  the  flour  and  seasonings  and  gradually  add  the 
milk  to  make  a  sauce.  Combine  with  the  corned  beef, 
transfer  to  a  well-oiled  baking  dish,  cover  with  the 
crumbs  and  bake  until  browned  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Creamed  Tongue 

2j  cupfuls  diced,  cooked  I  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

tongue  i  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

2  tablespoonfuls  minced    pi-          2  cupfuls  milk 

mentoes  -|  teaspoonful  salt 

2-  tablespoonfuls  flour                       H  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 
oleomargarine 

Melt  the  butter,  add  the  pimentoes,  and,  when  softened, 
the  flour,  seasonings  and,  gradually,  the  milk.  Add  the 
meat.  Let  stand  over  hot  water  till  very  hot,  then  serve 
in  a  border  of  boiled  brown  or  uncoated  rice. 

Casserole  of  Pork  Roast 

6  cupfuls  cold  pork,  cubed  i  teaspoonful    Worcester- 

2  onions  shire  sauce 

1  pint  stewed  tomatoes  2  teaspoonfuls  sugar 

2  cupfuls  cooked  brown  or  Boiling  water 
uncoated  rice 

Cut  the  onions  fine.  Add  the  pork,  tomatoes,  rice  and 
seasonings  and  cover  with  boiling  water.  Stew  for  a  few 
minutes,  turn  into  a  casserole,  cover  and  bake  one  and 
one-half  hours  in  a  slow  oven. 

Veal  in  Ramekins 

1  pint   cooked   veal,    cut    in  2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 
cubes  oleomargarine 

2  cupfuls  cooked  celery,  cut  Bay  leaf 

in  cubes  Grating  of  lemon  rind 

1  cupful  celery  stock  i  tablespoonful    tomato 
ii  cupfuls   milk  catsup 

Few  drops  onion  juice  Buttered  crumbs 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  Salt  and  pepper 

Scald  the  bay  leaf  and  lemon  rind  with  the  milk. 
Cook  the  celery  till  tender,  and  add  J  cupful  of  the  liquor 
to  the  milk.  Make  a  white  sauce  of  this  with  the  butter 
and  flour.  Add  the  celery,  meat  and  seasonings.  Pour 
into  well-oiled  ramekins,  cover  with  buttered  crumbs,  and 
bake  till  brown. 


382  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Rechauffe  of  Veal 

3  to  4  cupfuls  diced  cold  veal          \  cupful  canned  tomato 

3  cupfuls  stock  or  half  gravy  juice 

and  water  i  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

4  tablespoonfuls  flour  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
3  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

drippings 

Melt  the  butter,  stir  'in  the  flour,  gradually,  then  the 
stock  and  tomato.  Add  the  veal,  and  the  onion  juice  and 
seasonings.  Let  stand  to  become  very  hot  and  serve  on 
split  baking  powder  biscuits,  or  in  a  border  of  boiled 
brown  or  uncoated  rice. 

Forcemeat-Balls 

i  cupful  cooked  veal,  pound-  I  teaspoonful  minced  pars- 
ed ley 

3  tablespoonfuls  cream  or  i  teaspoonful  minced  shallot 

melted  butter  2  hard-cooked  egg  yolks 

1  cupful  fine  soft  crumbs  i  egg  white 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Cook  the  crumbs  in  the  cream  till  smooth.  Add  to 
the  pounded  veal  with  the  other  seasonings  and  the  egg 
yolks,  make  into  little  balls,  roll  in  slightly-beaten  egg 
white  and  poach  in  boiling,  salted  water.  Calves'  brains 
blanched  and  boiled  as  sweetbreads  may  be  used  in  place 
of  the  veal.  Serve  in  soup. 

Liver  Terrapin 

2  cupfuls  cooked  liver,  either          i  teaspoonful  minced  pars- 
fried  or  boiled  ley 

2  tablespoonfuls   butter  i  hard-cooked  egg 

!  teaspoonful  salt  i  tablespoonful  flour 

i  teaspoonful  poultry  season-          £  teaspoonful  paprika 
ing  i  teaspoonful  mustard 

i  cupful  chopped  olives  i  cupful  liver  stock 

i  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

Rub  the  egg  yolk  smooth  with  the  butter,  flour  and 
seasonings,  add  the  hot  stock,  let  boil  up  once,  and  add 
the  liver  cut  in  one-quarter  inch  cubes,  the  chopped  olives, 
parsley  and  lemon  juice.  Pour  into  ramekins,  cover 
with  buttered  crumbs  and  bake  until  brown.  Garnish 
with  parsley,  and  egg  whites  cut  in  rounds. 


MEATS  383 

Liver  in  a  Potato  or  Rice  Border 

Prepare  liver  terrapin,  as  in  the  preceding  recipe.  In- 
stead of  baking  it  in  ramekins,  pour  the  liver  in  the 
sauce  into  a  border  of  mashed  potato,  or  boiled  brown 
or  uncoated  rice,  or  boiled  hominy. 

Rice  and  Meat  Loaf 

2  cupfuls  any  chopped  cooked          3  tablespoonfuls  butter   or 
meat  drippings 

£  cupful  stock  or  gravy  zk  cupfuls    cold,   boiled, 

3  tablespoonfuls  flour  brown  or  uncoated  rice 

Seasonings  to  taste 

Add  the  stock  to  the  meat,  heat  and  thicken  with  the 
fat  and  flour  rubbed  together.  Season  to  taste.  Oil  a 
bread  pan,  thoroughly,  line  it  with  the  rice,  packing  it  in 
tight,  press  in  the  meat  and  cover  with  the  rice.  Set  in 
the  oven  and  bake  until  firm  —  about  thirty  minutes. 
Serve  with  tomato  sauce. 

Minced  Lamb  or  Mutton  with  Tomato 

3  to  4  cupfuls  minced  mutton          3  tablespoonfuls  flour 
2  cupfuls  canned  tomatoes  I  teaspoonful  sugar 

1  cupful  gravy,   stock,  or  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
boiling   water 

Mix  the  meat,  flour,  salt,  pepper  and  sugar.  Add  the 
tomato  and  gravy  and  let  come  to  a  boil.  Pour  into  a 
well-oiled  baking  dish  and  cover  with  buttered  crumbs, 
or  flakes,  and  dot  with  butter.  Bake  thirty  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

Chop  Suey 

\\  cupfuls  diced  cooked  veal  i  tablespoonful   sugar,    cara- 

or  pork  melized 

8  medium-sized    onions,  i  tablespoonful  olive  oil 

chopped  i  pint  meat  broth 

2  cupfuls  chopped  celery  i  cupful  uncoated  rice,  boiled 

4  sweet  peppers,  chopped  i  cupful  soy  sauce 

Salt  to  taste 

Combine  the  caramelized  sugar,  meat,  vegetables,  olive 
oil  and  broth  and  simmer  until  the  vegetables  are  tender, 
and  the  mixture  is  thick ;  then  stir  in  the  boiled  rice  and 
the  soy  sauce,  taste  the  mixture  and  add  salt  as  needed. 
If  the  pork  is  fat,  the  olive  oil  may  be  omitted. 


384  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Turkey  Trot 

2  cupfuls  turkey  meat,  cut  in  ij  tablespoonfuls   butter 

dice  i  cupful   mushrooms 

2  cupfuls  brown  soup  stock,            2  tablespoonfuls  sliced  olives 

or  gravy  Grated  rind  i  lemon 

2  cloves  \  teaspoonful  Worcestershire 

4  peppercorns  sauce 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Brown  the  mushrooms  in  the  butter,  add  the  flour, 
peppercorns  and  cloves  and,  gradually,  the  soup  stock. 
Let  boil  up,  add  the  olives,  lemon  rind  and  Worcester- 
shire ;  turn  in  the  meat  and  let  stand  ten  minutes  over  hot 
water  to  season.  Add  salt  and  pepper  as  needed.  Serve 
on  toast. 

Chicken  Wiggle 

2  cupfuls  rich  milk  ij  cupfuls  diced  cooked 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  chicken 

$  cupful  peas  £  cupful  boiled  brown  or 

1  teaspoonful  salt  uncoated  rice 
Buttered  toast  \  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour 

Melt  the  butter,  add  the  flour  and  seasonings  and, 
gradually,  the  milk  to  make  a  sauce.  Let  boil,  stirring 
constantly,  and  add  the  other  ingredients.  Stand  over 
hot  water  to  become  well  heated  and  serve  on  hot  but- 
tered toast. 

Individual  Italian  Chicken  Pies 

Butter  individual  chicken-pie  dishes ;  fill  with  alternat- 
ing layers  of  cooked  chicken  and  cooked  ham  with  an  oc- 
casional sprinkling  of  chopped  cooked  pimento.  Moisten 
well  with  chicken  gravy.  Cut  rounds  of  soft  bread  to  fit 
the  baking  dishes,  butter  them,  lay  a  slice  over  the  chicken 
mixture,  and  sprinkle  thickly  with  grated  cheese.  Bake 
till  brown  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Chicken  Loaf 

3  cupfuls  minced  cooked  i  teaspoonful  minced  parsley 
chicken                                             \  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

i  cupful  soft  bread  crumbs  3  eggs 

\  cupful  milk  2  tablespoonfuls  melted  but- 

I  teaspoonful  salt  ter 

i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Cook  the  crumbs  in  the  milk  till  pasty.     Add  to  the 


MEATS  385 

chicken  with  the  seasonings,  butter  and  parsley.  Sepa- 
rate the  eggs,  beat  the  yolks  light,  add  to  the  chicken  and 
then  fold  in  the  egg  whites,  beaten  stiff.  Turn  into  a 
well-oiled,  buttered  mould  and  set  in  a  pan  of  hot  water; 
bake  until  firm  (forty-five  minutes)  in  a  moderate  oven. 
Serve  hot  with  creamed  peas,  asparagus,  or  Bechamel 
sauce,  or  cold  and  sliced. 

Minced  Chicken,  Italian 

3  cupfuls    diced   cooked  f  cupful  mushrooms  cut  in 
chicken  quarters  or  left  whole 

4  teaspoonful  onion  juice  4  tablespoonfuls  flour 
2  cupfuls  canned  tomato  I  teaspoonful  salt 

juice  H  teaspoonful  pepper 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  Few  grains  paprika 

oleomargarine 

If  fresh  mushrooms  are  used,  separate  the  caps  from 
the  stems,  and  cut  the  stems  in  pieces.  Saute  (fry)  the 
caps  in  butter,  adding  salt  and  pepper  and  a  dash  of  nut- 
meg; then  remove  to  keep  warm.  Add  the  stems  and  fry 
five  minutes  in  the  butter,  add  the  onion,  flour  and  sea- 
sonings, and  gradually  the  tomato.  Let  boil,  turn  in  the 
chicken  and,  after  becoming  very  hot,  serve  on  toast  with 
the  mushroom  caps  as  a  garnish. 

Chicken  Savory 

ii  cupfuls  diced,  cooked  i  teaspoonful  parsley 

chicken  i  cupful  chopped  mushrooms 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  ij  cupfuls  brown  stock 
savory  drippings  i  tablespoonful  ham 

3  tablespoonfuls  flour  2  tablespoonfuls  carrot 

1  teaspoonful  salt  i  teaspoonful  minced  onion 
Few  grains  pepper                            2  cloves 

Melt  the  butter,  and  add  the  vegetables  and  flour.  Cook 
until  brown,  then  add  the  stock,  and  boil  till  the  vege- 
tables are  tender.  Strain  and  add  the  chicken  meat. 
Serve  in  Swedish  timbales  or  bread  croustades. 

Chicken  Klopps 

2  cupfuls  cold  chicken,  i  teaspoonful  chopped  pars- 
chopped  fine  ley 

1  teaspoonful   celery   salt  3  eggs  unbeaten  or 

i  teaspoonful  onion  juice  4  egg  whites 

Buttered  toast 


386  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given.  Form  into 
round  balls  and  poach  in  water  just  at  simmering  point. 
When  firm,  remove  the  klopps  to  the  toast  and  serve  with 
Bechamel  or  mushroom  sauce. 

Creamed  Chicken  with  Asparagus 

2  cupfuls  diced  cooked  4  teaspoonful  pepper 

chicken  2  cupfuls  light  cream 

i  cupful  asparagus  tips  2  tablespoonfuls  flour 

i  teaspoonful  salt  2  tablespoonfuls   butter 

Make  a  white  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour,  cream,  pepper 
and  salt.  When  boiling,  stir  in  the  chicken  and  aspara- 
gus, and,  when  very  hot,  serve  in  timbale  cases,  on  toast, 
in  croustades,  or  in  pattie  shells. 

Chicken  and  Celery  in  Rolls 

is  cupfuls  diced  cooked  \  tablespoonful  flour 

chicken  I  tablespoonful  butter 

£  cupful  cooked  diced  celery  i  egg  yolk 

1  cupful  cream  i  teaspoonful    salt 
Dash  paprika  Vienna  rolls 

Make  a  sauce  of  the  flour,  butter  and  cream.  Add 
the  seasonings  and  turn  in  the  chicken  and  celery.  Pour 
onto  the  egg  yolk  well  beaten,  and  set  over  hot  water  to 
thicken  (about  two  minutes)  ;  serve  in  the  rolls,  heated, 
and  hollowed  to  represent  boxes.  Take  the  crumbs  that 
are  removed  and  fry  them  in  butter.  Serve  with  the 
chicken. 

Chicken  a  la  Martin 

2  cupfuls    cooked    chicken,  i  teaspoonful  pepper 
diced  3  tablespoonfuls  flour 

i  cupful  small  oysters,  2  cupfuls  light  cream  or  rich 

steamed  and  halved  milk 

I  tablespoonful    green    pep-  i  teaspoonfnl  salt 

per,  minced  \  cupful  minced  celery 

i  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  Buttered  toast 

garine 

Cook  the  celery  and  green  pepper  in  the  butter,  till 
softened.  Stir  in  the  flour,  and  add  the  cream  to  make 
a  sauce.  Let  boil,  season,  and  add  the  chicken.  Just 
before  serving  stir  in  the  oysters  and  serve  on  buttered 
toast. 


MEATS  387 

Chicken  a  la  King 

4  tablespoon fuls  butter  24  cupfuls  chicken,  diced 

3  tablespoonfuls  flour  I  teaspoonful  salt 

3  tablespoonfuls  minced  2  cupfuls  light  cream 

green  pepper  2  can  mushrooms 

j  tablespoonful  minced  pi-  Few  grains  paprika 

mentoes  Buttered  toast 

Melt  the  butter,  and  cook  the  peppers  in  it  till  soft; 
then  stir  in  the  flour  and  seasonings.  Gradually  add  the 
cream,  stirring  constantly.  When  it  has  reached  the 
boiling  point,  set  over  hot  water  and  add  the  chicken  and 
mushrooms.  Serve  on  hot  buttered  toast. 


CHAPTER  XIII 
SAVORY  SAUCES 

• 

ALL    MEASUREMENTS   ARE   LEVEL 

There  are  three  types  of  sauces  which  are  essential  to 
good  cookery,  the  most  common  being  white  sauce,  which 
is  made  thin,  medium  thick,  or  thick  according  to  one's 
liking.  The  second  is  brown  sauce,  made  with  soup 
stock  and  often,  reinforced  by  vegetable  puree,  or  sifted 
vegetable-pulp  and  juice.  The  third  type  consists  of  a 
foundation  sauce  made  according  to  the  formula  for 
either  white  or  brown  sauce,  and  further  thickened  and 
enriched  by  egg  yolks.  Occasionally  it  is  advisable  to 
omit  the  milk  in  making  a  white  sauce  and  substitute 
water,  and  an  extra  amount  of  butter,  as  in  making 
drawn  butter  sauce.  Again,  a  dish  may  demand  a  tart 
sauce  when  capers  or  pickled  nasturtium  seeds  may  be 
added  to  the  drawn  butter  sauce,  as  for  fish  or  boiled 
lamb.  Sometimes  a  dish  will  be  greatly  enhanced  by  the 
addition  of  a  sauce  made  with  chicken-  or  veal-stock  ac- 
cording to  the  formula  of  white  sauce. 

White  Sauce 

White  sauce  may  be  made  according  to  three  different 
methods,  although  I  use  but  one  and  find  it  quicker,  and,  ii 
the  directions  are  carefully  carried  out,  it  combines  the 
advantages  of  the  other  two  methods.  It  should  never 
be  necessary  to  strain  white  sauce.  If  lumpy,  careless- 
ness in  the  making  is  the  cause.  It  is  a  great  saving  ot 
time  to  make  the  sauce  without  lumps,  and  without  heat- 
ing the  milk-  in  a-  separate  utensil,  as  the  process  is  not 
only  shortened,  but  the  time  of  washing  a  strainer  and 
a  separate  saucepan  is  saved. 

The  following  are  the  formulas  for  the  three  kinds  of 
white  sauces,  all  being  made  in  the  same  way. 

388 


SAVORY  SAUCES  389 

Thin  White  Sauce  No.  1 

For  use  in  creaming  vegetables. 

i  tablespoonful  butter  Few  grains  pepper 

i  tablespoonful  flour  I  cupful  milk 

1  teaspoonful  salt 

Medium  Thick  White  Sauce  No.  2 

For  use  in  creaming  meats,  fish,  eggs,  in  making 
creamed  vegetable  sauces  for  meats,  and  in  certain  scal- 
loped dishes : 

2.  tablespoonfuls    butter  Few  grains  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  i  cupful  milk 
i  teaspoonful  salt 

Thick  White  Sauce  No.  3 

For  use  in  binding  together  croquettes,  certain  scal- 
loped dishes  and  fish  and  meat  loaves. 

4  tablespoonfuls   butter  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

£  cupful  flour  I  cupful  milk 

1  teaspoonful  salt 

Barely  melt  the  butter  in  a  smooth  saucepan  or  double 
boiler  top.  Remove  from  the  heat  and  stir  in  the  flour 
and  seasonings,  preferably  with  a  wire  whisk.  Then  re- 
turn to  the  heat  and  add  the  cold  liquid  a  little  at  a  time, 
stirring  all  the  while.  Be  sure  that  the  sauce  thickens 
with  each  addition  of  liquid  before  adding  any  more; 
otherwise,  it  is  liable  to  be  lumpy.  Let  come  to  a  boil 
and  then  set  over  hot  water  for  ten  minutes.  If  the  ar- 
ticle to  be  creamed  is  added  at  this  time,  the  whole  will 
become  thoroughly  hot  at  the  end  of  the  ten  minutes. 
Therefore  this  final  cooking  is  not  a  waste  of  time. 

In  making  thick  sauce,  ^chicken-  or  veal-stock,  or  half 
milk  and  half  oyster  liquor,  may  be  substituted,  according 
to  the  intended  usage.  Cream  sauce  may  be  made  by 
substituting  thin  cream  for  the  milk  in  any  of  the  for- 
mulas. Be  careful  not  to  heat  the  butter  too  hot  or  it 
will  break  up.  This  is  Why  it  should  be  removed  from 
the  fire  when  the  flour  is  added.  However,  in  order  to 
cook  the  flour  thoroughly,  it  is  necessary  to  let  the  sauce 
stand  over  boiling  water  for  the  ten  minutes  as  directed. 
Oleomargarine  may  be  substituted  for  the  butter  if  de- 
sired. In  this  case,  increase  the  amount  of  salt  a  little. 
Or,  use  half  oleomargarine  and  half  butter. 


390  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Brown  Sauce 

Brown  sauce  is  used  whenever  it  is  advisable  to  add  to 
a  dish  a  combination  of  seasonings  that  are  not  very  deli- 
cate. Many  authorities  assert  that  in  making  brown 
sauce  the  butter  or  other  fat  and  the  flour  should  be 
heated  until  very  brown,  and  that  the  stock  should  be 
added  just  as  the  milk  is  poured  in  when  making  white 
sauce.  However,  I  do  not  find  this  method  satisfactory 
or  advisable,  for  the  fat  must  always  be  heated  to  de- 
composing point,  which  makes  it  hard  to  digest.  A  much 
better  plan  is  to  keep  on  hand  a  small  quantity  of  browned 
flour.  To  prepare  this,  spread  the  flour  in  a  shallow  pan 
and  let  it  stand  in  a  slow  oven  until  the  edges  begin  to 
turn  a  reddish-brown  tint.  Stir  this,  and  continue  heat- 
ing until  the  whole  is  of  a  reddish-brown  color.  This 
not  only  assists  in  coloring  the  sauce,  but  also  gives  a  rich 
nutty  flavor. 

The  proportions  to  be  observed  in  making  brown  sauce 
are  the  same  as  those  for  making  white  sauce  —  with  this 
exception :  in  making  a  thin  brown  sauce  use  a  tablespoon- 
ful  and  a  half  of  the  browned  flour  to  a  tablespoonful  of 
fat  and  a  cupful  of  well-seasoned  brown  soup  stock. 
When  the  sauce  is  done,  add  not  more  than  three  drops 
of  "  Kitchen  Bouquet "  to  a  cupful  of  soup  stock  to  give 
it  more  color  if  desired. 

If  a  vegetable  flavor,  such  as  onion  or  celery,  is  to  be 
added  to  the  sauce,  it  may  be  done  in  two  ways.  In  the 
case  of  the  white  sauce,  it  is  preferable  to  add  onion  in 
the  form  of  onion  juice  (not  onion  extract),  or  if  this  is 
not  desirable,  add  half  an  onion  to  the  sauce  when  the  milk 
•  is  partly  in,  and  remove  it  just  before  serving.  Celery 
tips  may  be  used  in  the  same  way.  The  second  method 
of  adding  vegetables  should  preferably  be  used  only  in 
making  brown  sauce,  and  when  the  fat  used  is  other  than 
butter.  The  vegetables  should  then  be  fried  gently  in 
the  fat  until  almost  tender.  Then  the  other  ingredients 
should  be  added  according  to  the  directions  give»n. 

The  following  suggestions  give  the  proportions  of  in- 
gredients, and  the  uses  for  various  modified  sauces, 
based  upon  the  general  directions  for  the  white  and 
brown  sauces  already  described. 


SAVORY  SAUCES  391 

Bechamel  Sauce 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  i  cupful  cream 

4  tablespoonfuls  flour  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

i  cupful  chicken  stock 

Use  with  chicken  timbales,  boiled  mushrooms,  savory 
rice  croquettes,  and  the  like. 

Yellow  Bechamel  Sauce 

Make  according  to  above  directions  and  stir  in  just 
before  serving  two  egg  yolks  diluted  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream.  Use  with  rice  timbales,  sliced 
breast  of  chicken,  panned  oysters,  cauliflower,  and  so  on. 

Bechamel  Sauce  with  Mushrooms 

ii  cupfuls  brown  or  chicken  \  tablespoonful  minced 

stock  onion  or 

4  tablespoonfuls  flour  i  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  £  cupful  cut  mushrooms 

1  cupful  cream 

Saute  (fry)  the  mushrooms  and  onions  in  butter  until 
softened  (about  five  minutes).  Then  add  the  flour  and, 
gradually,  the  stock.  Let  boil  hard ;  add  the  cream,  sea- 
son and  serve. 

Drawn  Butter  Sauce 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  1  teaspoonful  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls   flour  Few  grains  pepper 
i  cupful  boiling  water 

Use  with  fish  or  asparagus. 

Caper  Sauce 

Make  drawn  butter  sauce,  and  add  J  cupful  capers 
with  their  liquor,  or  the  same  quantity  of  pickled  nas- 
turtium seeds.  Use  with  fish  or  lamb. 

Brown  Mushroom  Sauce 

4  tablespoonfuls  fat  3  drops  Kitchen  Bouquet 

4  tablespoonfuls   flour  \  cupful  sauted  mushrooms 

1  tablespoonful  onion  juice  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

2  cupfuls  brown  soup  stock 

Use  with  steak  or  re-heated  beef. 

Horseradish  Sauce 
Add  one-quarter  cupful  grated  horseradish,  one  tea- 


392  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

spoonful  powdered  sugar,  one-fourth  teaspoonful  mus- 
tard,- and  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  to  one  cupful  of 
brown  sauce.  Use  with  beef,  ham  or  tongue. 

Tomato  Sauce 

4  tablespoonfuls   drippings  i  cupful  sifted  canned  to- 

or  bacon  fat  matoes 

•|  teaspoonful  mixed   pickle  i  cupful  brown  soup  stock 

spice  4  tablespoonfuls  flour 

1  teaspoonful    sugar 

• 

Tie  the  spice  in  a  bit  of  cheesecloth  and  remove  before 
serving. 

Olive  Sauce 

2  cupfuls  rich  brown  stock  i  teaspoonful   minced   onion 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  i  clove 

other  fat  Salt  and  pepper 

2-J  tablespoonfuls  flour  6  tablespoonfuls   stuffed 

Bit  of  bay  leaf  olives   (sliced) 

Melt  the  butter,  add  the  onion,  bay  leaf  and  clove,  and 
cook  till  the  onion  is  soft.  Remove  the  bay  leaf  and 
clove,  add  the  flour  slowly,  then,  gradually,  the  stock. 
Let  boil  up.  Add  the  olives  and  let  become  very  hot. 
Season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper. 

Brown  Olive  Sauce 

ij  cupfuls  brown  stock  1  teaspoonful  Worcester- 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  shire  sauce 
drippings                                           Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

3  tablespoonfuls  browned  i  cupful  sliced  stuffed  olives 

flour 

Melt  the  butter.  When  browned,  stir  in  the  flour. 
Then  add  the  stock  gradually.  Let  boil,  add  the  Wor- 
cestershire, seasonings  and  the  olives  and  serve  very  hot. 

Spanish  Sauce 

i  tablespoonful  butter  or  i  teaspoonful  salt 

drippings  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

ii  tablespoonfuls  flour  i  tablespoonful  capers 

i  tablespoonful  chopped  ii  cupfuls  stewed  and  strain- 
onion  ed  tomatoes 

i  tablespoonful  chopped  pep- 
pers 

Melt  the  butter,  add  the  peppers  and  onion  and  cook 
until  light  yellow.  Then  stir  in  the  flour  and  add  the 


SAVORY  SAUCES  393 

tomato  gradually.  Let  boil  up  once,  add  the  seasonings 
and  capers  and  serve.  A  few  chopped  mushrooms  are 
an  addition. 

Celery  Sauce  for  Chicken  Fricassee 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  i  teaspoonful  minced  parsley 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  I  cupful  cream  or  milk 
i  cupful  chicken  liquor                    1  teaspoonful  salt 

i  cupful  minced  celery  Few  grains  pepper 

1  cupful  celery  liquor 

Melt  the  butter,  add  the  flour  and  stir  constantly  for 
three  minutes;  add  the  chicken  liquor,  celery  liquor,  and 
the  cream  or  milk  heated.  Cook  ten  minutes,  and  add 
the  minced  celery,  parsley  and  seasonings. 

Green  Pepper  Sauce 

3  green  peppers  2  cupfuls  milk 

4  tablespoonfuls    butter  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour 

Chop  the  peppers  fine,  then  fry  in  the  butter  till 
softened.  Add  the  flour  and  gradually  the  milk.  Sea- 
son to  taste. 

Egg  Sauce 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  3  tablespoonfuls  flour 

1  teaspoonful  salt  I  teaspoonful  pepper 

i|  cupfuls  hot  water  I  teaspoonful  minced  parsley 

2  teaspoonfuls  capers  i  teaspconful  lemon  juice 
2  hard-cooked  eggs,  sliced 

Melt  the  butter,  add  the  flour  and  seasonings  and, 
gradually,  the  hot  water.  Let  boil  up  once ;  add  the 
eggs,  capers,  lemon  juice  and  parsley  and  serve  very  hot. 

Asparagus  Sauce 

4  hard-cooked  egg  yolks  4  cupful  creamed  butter 

i  teaspoonful   salt  i£   teaspoonfuls   lemon   juice 

Dash  pepper 

Mash  the  yolks,  add  the  seasonings,  and  enough  butter 
to  make  it  creamy.  Spread  over  the  stalks  when  the  heat 
will  melt  it  sufficiently  to  cover  thoroughly. 

Grape  Juice  Sauce     (For  Planked  Ham) 
Reserve   some  of  the   liquor  in  which   the   ham   was 
baked  —  there    should   be    one   cupful.    Add   ^   cupful 


394  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

grape  juice  and  a  cupful  halved  raisins,  bring  to  boiling 
point  and  thicken  with  2  tablespoonfuls  of  corn  starch 
dissolved  in  a  little  cold  water. 

Creole  Sauce 

2  tablespoonfuls   minced  2  tablespoonfuls  dried  mush- 
onion  rooms 

3  tablespoonfuls  minced  6  stuffed  olives 
green  pepper  i  cupful  brown  stock 

2  tablespoonfuls   butter  or  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

savory  drippings  2  tablespoonfuls   flour 

1  cupful  canned  tomato 
j  uice 

Cook  the  onion  and  pepper  with'  the  fat  for  five  min- 
utes. Add  the  flour  and,  when  blended,  the  tomato  and 
stock.  Add  the  mushrooms,  which  should  be  soaked 
and  chopped,  and  let  boil  five  minutes.  Stir  in  the  olives 
and  season  highly  to  taste. 

German  Parsley  Sauce 

•J  cupful  melted  butter  i  tablespoonful  vinegar 

2  tablespoonfuls  minced  pars- 

l*y 

Mix  in  the  order  given  and  serve  very  hot  on  potatoes. 
Parsley  Sauce  for  Fish 

4  tablespoonfuls  melted  but-  I  cupful  boiling  water 
ter                                                      2  tablespoonfuls   vinegar 

i  tablespoonful  corn  starch  Few  grains  salt  and  pepper 

4  tablespoonfuls  minced  pars- 
ley 

Melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  corn  starch  and  gradually 
add  the  vinegar  and  the  boiling  water.  Season  and,  just 
before  serving,  stir  in  the  parsley. 

Oyster  Sauce 

i  pint  oysters  i  lemon 

1  teaspoonful  mace  i  cupful  cream 

3  tablespoonfuls  flour  Few  grains  salt  and  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

Wash  the  oysters  and  steam  them  ;  remove  the  muscles, 
and  cut  the  oysters  in  quarters.  Melt  the  butter,  add 
the  flour  and  mace  and,  gradually,  the  cream.  Let  boil 


SAVORY  SAUCES  395 

up.     Add  the  oysters  with  the  lemon  juice  and  a  little 
salt  and  pepper.     Serve  without  re-heating. 

Shrimp  Sauce 

Substitute  halved  cooked  shrimps  for  oysters  in  the 
preceding  recipe. 

Mint  Sauce 

1  cupful  finely-chopped  mint          i  tablespoonful  powdered 

leaves  sugar 

i  cupful  vinegar 

Add  the  sugar  to  the  vinegar;  when  dissolved,  pour 
over  the  mint  and  let  stand  thirty  minutes  in  a  warm 
place  to  infuse. 

Nut  Sauce 

1  tablespoonful  butter  Few  grains  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls  peanut  but-          i|  cupfuls  soup  stock 

ter  1  cupful  chopped  nut  meats 

ii  tablespoonfuls  flour  ^  teaspoonful  salt  (if  needed) 

Melt  the  butter,  add  the  peanut  butter,  and,  when  soft, 
add  the  flour,  then  the  stock,  stirring  constantly.  Let 
boil  up  once,  add  the  seasonings  and  nut  meats,  and 
serve. 

Mousseline  Sauce 

8  tablespoonfuls  butter  2\  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 

3  egg  yolks  \  teaspoonful  salt 

i  cupful  heavy  cream  Few  grains  paprika 

Cream  four  tablespoonfuls  of  the  butter,  beating  the 
egg  yolks  in  thoroughly,  one  at  a  time.  Add  the  cream, 
salt  and  pepper,  set  over  hot  water  and  cook  until  it 
thickens,  stirring  constantly.  Then  beat  in  the  lemon 
juice  and  the  rest  of  the  butter  in  small  pieces,  using  a 
wire  whisk.  Do  not  re-heat. 

Cheese  Sauce 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter  2  cupfuls  milk 

4  tablespoonfuls  flour  i  cupful  chopped  cheese 
Few  grains  cayenne                         i  teaspoonful  salt 

i  teaspoonful  mustard 

Melt  the  butter,  add  the  flour,  and  then  the  milk  and 
seasonings.  When  boiling,  add  the  cheese,  and  cook  till 
it  is  melted. 


396  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Flemish  Sauce 

$  cupful  minced  carrot  I  teaspoonful  peppercorns 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  ii  cupfuls  soup  stock 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  i  cupful  cream 

I  tablespoonful  minced  onion  i  tablespoonful  cucumber 
I  tablespoonful  minced  pars-  pickle 

ley  \  tablespoonful   horseradish 
4-  teaspoonful  mace 

Simmer  the  carrots  thirty  minutes.  Then  melt  the 
butter,  add  the  flour,  stirring  constantly,  the  onion,  mace, 
peppercorns  and  stock.  Boil  gently  for  half  an  hour, 
add  the  cream,  re-heat  and  strain.  Add  the  drained 
carrots,  the  parsley,  pickle  and  horseradish,  and  addi- 
tional seasoning,  if  necessary,  and  serve  hot. 

Bread  Sauce 

I  cupful  fine  soft  bread  I  tablespoonful  butter 

crumbs  ij  cupfuls  milk 

i  teaspoonful  salt  I  slice  onion 

\  teaspoonful  paprika  2  cloves 

Put  the  crumbs,  seasonings  (the  clove  stuck  in  the 
onion),  and  the  milk  together  in  a  double  boiler  top. 
Cook  thirty  minutes,  remove  the  onion,  add  the  butter 
and  beat  well. 

Hollandaise  Sauce 

1  cupful  weak  vinegar  4  egg  yolks 

2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice  Salt  and  cayenne  pepper  to 
I  cupful  chicken  stock  taste 

i  cupful  butter 

Bring  the  vinegar,  lemon  juice,  chicken  stock  and  but- 
ter to  boiling  point.  Pour  onto  the  egg  yolks,  slightly- 
beaten,  set  over  hot  water  like  a  custard  and  stir  until  as 
thick  as  mayonnaise,  using  a  wire  whisk.  Season  to 
taste. 

Sauce  Tartare 

I  cupful  mayonnaise  %  cupful  minced  chives,  gher- 

kins, parsley  and  capers 

Combine  and  serve.  Boiled  salad  dressing  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  the  mayonnaise. 


CHAPTER  XIV 
POTATOES 

ALL   MEASUREMENTS   ARE   LEVEL 

In  selecting  potatoes,  choose  those  of  regular  shape, 
medium  size  and  with  a  smooth  skin.  A  bushel  of  very 
large  or  knobby  potatoes  will  not  yield  as  much  edible 
material  as  the  same  quantity  of  smaller  ones,  because 
they  do  not  pack  in  so  closely.  Potatoes  should  be  stored 
in  a  cool,  dry  place,  although  they  must  not  be  allowed 
to  freeze.  When  sprouts  appear,  they  should  be  rubbed 
off,  as  the  starch  of  the  potato  is'their  food  —  the  potato 
or  "  tuber  "  being  a  storehouse  of  starch  for  the  nurture 
of  the  sprout. 

Whereas  the  potato  is  a  valuable  food  and  has  a  most 
important  place  in  the  menu,  it  is  not  adapted  to  muscle 
growth,  and,  consequently,  is  not  fitted  to  occupy  the 
place  of  importance  in  the  diet.  Potatoes  are  approxi- 
mately made  up  of  one-quarter  starch,  three-quarters 
water,  and  cellulose  or  woody  fiber,  with  a  trace  of  min- 
eral matter  that  these  hold  in  suspension.  They  are  also 
especially  rich  in  vitamins.  In  preparing  them  all  of  the 
nourishment  possible  must  be  preserved.  The  two  best 
methods  for  accomplishing  this  are  by  baking  or  steam- 
ing. 

However  potatoes  are  to  be  cooked,  two  rules  must  be 
observed  —  first,  scrub  them  well ;  second,  do  not  break 
the  skin  unless  necessary  to  remove  bad  spots. 

Baked  Potatoes 

A  potato  to  be  baked  to  perfection  demands  a  hot  oven 
—  then  the  result  will  be  mealy.  An  oven  that  is  too  cool 
means  a  soggy,  waxy  potato  that  is  indigestible. 

In  using  a  coal  oven  for  this  purpose  put  the  potatoes 
on  the  upper  grate  near  the  fire-box  where  the  hot  air  can 
circulate  freely  about  them,  or,  better  still,  purchase  a 

397 


398  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

potato  rack  so  that  they  can  be  more  easily  removed. 
Let  them  remain  in  the  oven  about  forty-five  minutes,  or 
until  "  mellow,"  when  pressed  with  the  fingers.  In 
using  a  gas  oven  the  same  rules  must  be  observed,  taking 
care  that  the  oven  is  not  too  hot.  If  the  skins  are  liked 
very  soft,  rub  each  potato  lightly  with  butter,  bacon  fat 
or  oleomargarine  before  baking.  When  done,  remove  at 
once  from  the  oven  —  for  just  as  long  as  they  stand  the 
steam  is  re-condensing  and  making  them  soggy  —  break 
open  the  top  of  each  potato  with  a  fork  to  let  the  steam 
escape,  and  serve  wrapped  in  a  napkin  in  a  vegetable 
dish. 

Baked  Potatoes,  Rocky  Mountain  Style 
Bake  large  potatoes  according  to  the  preceding  direc- 
tions. Slit  lengthwise  and  crosswise  of  the  potato,  as  in 
making  a  Maltese  cross ;  lay  open,  dust  the  pulp  with 
salt  and  plenty  of  paprika  and  insert  a  cube  of  butter, 
mixing  the  seasonings  with  the  potato  in  the  shell. 

Baked  Stuffed  Potatoes 

Select  large  shapely  potatoes,  scrub  well  and  bake. 
Cut  in  halves  lengthwise,  scoop  out  the  pulp,  mash,  sea- 
son with  salt,  butter  and  cream,  and  then  re-fill  the  skins. 
Brown  in  a  quick  oven. 

Adolph's  Stuffed  Potatoes  with  Ham 

Select  good-sized  potatoes.  Bake  until  mealy,  then  cut 
a  thin  slice  lengthwise  from  the  top  and  scoop  out  the 
pulp ;  for  the  contents  of  every  six  potatoes  allow  J  cup- 
ful minced  ham,  I  teaspoonful  parsley  (minced),  2  table- 
spoonfuls  cream,  I  teaspoonful  salt,  -J  teaspoonful  pep- 
per, 2  well-beaten  eggs  and  2  tablespoonfuls  butter. 
Beat  till  fluffy,  refill  the  skins  and  brown  quickly  in  the 
oven. 

Steamed  Potatoes 

To  steam  potatoes,  scrub  well,  leave  the  skins  on,  set 
in  a  steamer  top  over  boiling  water,  or  simmering  meat, 
cover  closely  and  cook  about  forty-five  minutes  for  pota- 
toes of  medium  size.  The  potato  loses  none  of  its  nour- 
ishment when  cooked  in  this  way. 


BAKED  POTATOES  AND  POTATO  RACK 


FRENCH  FRYING  POTATOES 


POTATOES  399 

Boiled  Potatoes 

When  boiling  potatoes  it  is  better  to  leave  the  skins  on, 
as  pared  potatoes  lose  most  of  the  mineral  salts,  which 
lie  near  the  surface.  Old,  or  poor  potatoes,  however, 
should  be  soaked  an  hour  in  cold  water  to  freshen,  and 
then  be  pared  very  thinly.  They  should  be  dropped  into 
rapidly  boiling  salted  water,  partly  covered,  brought 
quickly  to  boiling  point  again  and  be  allowed  to  bubble 
gently  until  tender  when  pierced  with  a  metal  skewer  or 
steel  fork.  If  they  are  soft  on  the  outside  before  the 
centers  are  done,  add  a  cup  of  cold  water.  This  will 
drive  the  heat  inside  and  they  will  be  tender  throughout. 
Drain  at  once,  sprinkle  lightly  with  salt,  and  shake  gently 
over  heat  till  mealy. 

New  Potatoes  with  Creamed  Eggs 
Steam  or  boil  new  potatoes.     Prepare  two  cupfuls  of 
white   sauce,   and   add  to   it   four  chopped  hard-cooked 
eggs ;  place  the  potatoes  on  a  platter,  pour  the  sauce  over 
and  around  them,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Hungarian  Potatoes 

8  potatoes  2  tablespoonfuls  drippings 

2  small  onions  Paprika  and  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  Boiling  water 

Pare  and  slice  the  potatoes.  Slice  the  onions  and  fry  in 
the  fat  till  soft  and  yellow.  Then  add  the  potatoes, 
a  dash  of  salt  and  paprika  and  barely  cover  with  boiling 
water.  Simmer  until  they  are  tender,  and  the  water  has 
boiled  away.  Then  allow  them  to  brown. 

Buttered  Potatoes 

Pare  the  potatoes  and  cut  them  in  fourths ;  place  in  a 
baking  pan  or  casserole  with  a  little  water  in  the  bottom, 
pour  over  melted  butter  and  bake  till  tender,  basting  oc- 
casionally with  the  liquid.  It  will  take  about  forty-five 
minutes. 

Potatoes  O'Brien 

3  cupfuls  diced  raw  potatoes         3  tablespoonfuls  diced  green 
I  onion,  minced  pepper 

i  tablespoonful  diced  sweet  Salt  and  pepper 

red  pepper 


400  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Melt  enough  good  cooking  fat  in  a  frying  pan  to  barely 
cover  the  bottom.  Put  in  the  onion  and  pepper  and  cook 
gently  for  two  or  three  minutes.  Then  add  the  potatoes 
and  fry  slowly  until  browned  on  all  sides.  Drain  on 
crumpled  paper,  dust  with  salt  and  pepper  and  serve. 

Mashed  Potatoes 

Steam  or  boil  six  large  potatoes  in  salted  water  until 
tender.  Drain,  remove  the  skins  if  they  have  been  kept 
on,  dry  the  potatoes  over  heat  by  shaking  vigorously,  and 
put  them  through  a  potato  ricer.  Add  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter,  I  teaspoonful  salt,  -J  teaspoonful  pepper  and  J 
cupful  of  hot  milk.  Beat  all  together  until  creamy. 
Serve  hot. 

Duchess  Potatoes 

3  cupfuls   hot   mashed  pota-          2  well-beaten   egg  yolks 
toes,  well-whipped  Hot  milk 

2  extra    tablespoonfuls    but- 
ter 

Add  the  butter  and  egg  yolks  to  the  mashed  potatoes ; 
then  whip  in  enough  hot  milk  to  make  the  potatoes  go 
easily  through  a  pastry  tube.  Shape  as  desired,  brush- 
ing over  the  mixture  with  a  little  beaten  egg  white 
diluted  with  milk.  Brown  in  a  hot  oven. 

Browned  Pimento  Potato 

3  cupfuls  riced  boiled  pota-  i*  teaspoonfuls  salt 
toes                                                   i  teaspoonful  pepper 

i  cupful  hot  milk  I  pimento  finely  minced 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter 
melted  in  milk 

Put  the  ingredients  together  in  the  order  given,  and 
beat  till  very  light  with  a  wire  whisk ;  place  in  a  buttered 
baking  dish,  brush  over  the  top  with  beaten  egg  yolk  and 
brown  in  a  quick  oven. 

Hash-Browned  Potatoes 

3  cupfuls    cooked    potatoes,  6  tablespoonfuls  milk 

chopped  fine  2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

I  teaspoonful  salt  drippings 
i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Combine  all  the  ingredients  except  the  butter.  Melt 
the  latter  in  a  frying  pan,  add  the  potato  mixture,  and 


POTATOES  401 

smooth  down,  pressing  it  in  shape.  Cook  for  a  moment 
over  a  quick  fire  and  then  slowly  for  twenty  minutes, 
watching  carefully  that  it  does  not  burn.  Then  fold  as 
an  omelet,  pressing  the  parts  together.  Turn  onto  a 
heated  platter,  and  serve  garnished  with  parsley  and 
bacon,  if  it  is  to  serve  as  a  substantial  dish. 

Hash-Browned  Potatoes  with  Ham 

3  cupfuls   chopped   potatoes  i  cupful  milk 

i  cupful  chopped  ham  Few  grains  salt  and  pepper 

Mix  together  the  potatoes,  ham,  milk  and  seasonings. 
Put  3  tablespoonfuls  of  drippings  into  a  frying  pan,  melt 
and,  when  hot,  pack  in  the  potato  mixture.  Cover  and 
cook  slowly  until  the  milk  is  absorbed  and  the  mixture 
is  brown  on  the  bottom ;  fold  over  and  turn  as  an  omelet. 

Hash-Browned  Potatoes  with  Nuts 
Use  the  proportions  included  in  Hash-Browrned  Ham 
Potatoes,  substituting  chopped  peanuts  for  the  ham. 

Curried  Potatoes 

i  small  onion,  peeled  and  is  teaspoonfuls  salt 

sliced  i  teaspoonful  curry  powder 

4  tablespoonfuls    butter  I  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 
6  cold  boiled  potatoes 

Melt  the  butter  in  a  frying  pan;  add  the  onion  and 
cook  till  yeltow  and  soft.  Cut  the  potatoes  in  slices, 
sprinkle  with  salt  and  the  curry  powder.  Combine  and 
shake  the  pan  till  well  mixed ;  then  cover  and  let  simmer 
ten  minutes.  Lastly,  add  lemon  juice,  mix  well  with  a 
fork,  and  serve  very  hot.  Cooked  macaroni  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  the  potatoes. 

Potato  Omelet 

Prepare  a  quart  of  mashed  potatoes  (this  takes  about 
10  medium-sized  potatoes)  and  season  well  with: 
3  tablespoonfuls  butter   or  £  teaspoonful  pepper 

bacon  fat  \  cupful  hot  milk 

i  teaspoonful  salt 

Beat  until  verv  light  and  fluffy,  then  spread  smoothly 
in  a  frying  pan  containing  one  tablespoonful  of  bacon  fait 
and  cook  until  well  browned.  This  will  take  about  ten 


402  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

minutes.     Then  fold,  turn  onto  a  hot  platter,  and  serve 
surrounded  with  bacon,  creamed  ham  or  dried  beef. 

Potato  Puffs 

Prepare  3  cupfuls  of  fluffy  mashed  potatoes.  While 
hot,  form  into  balls  with  the  hands  and  set  on  a  well-oiled 
cookie  sheet.  Beat  an  egg  yolk  slightly,  add  2  table- 
spoonfuls  melted  butter  and  brush  over  each  ball. 
Sprinkle  with  parsley  and  brown  in  a  hot  oven. 

Potato  Scones 

ii  cupfuls  flour  2  teaspoonfuls    baking   pow- 

i  cupful  butter    or    oleomar-  der 

garine  i  teaspoonful  salt 

I  cupful  mashed  potato  I  egg 

Sift  together  the  dry  ingredients,  add  the  mashed 
potato  and  rub  the  butter  in  lightly.  Make  a  soft  dough 
by  adding  the  egg  well-beaten  and  a  little  milk  if  neces- 
sary. Divide  the  dough  into  three  parts  and  roll  each 
one  into  a  round  cake  one-half  inch  thick.  Cut  cross- 
wise into  quarters  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven,  or  on  a  hot 
griddle.  Split  and  serve  hot. 

Potato  Pancakes 

i  pound  grated  raw  potatoes  1  teaspoonful  baking  powder 

i  finely-chopped  raw  onion  i  teaspoonful  salt 

i  egg  .  A  little  pepper 

i  cupful  flour 

Drop  by  spoonfuls  in  hot  fat,  flattening  with  a  spoon 
and  browning  on  each  side. 

French  Fried  Potatoes 

Wash  and  pare  small  potatoes;  cut  in  eighths  length- 
wise and  soak  one  hour  in  cold  water.  Drain  from  the 
water,  dry  on  paper  toweling  or  a  cloth  and  fry  in  deep 
fat  hot  enough  to  brown  a  bit  of  bread  in  one  minute  and 
a  half.  Drain  on  plenty  of  crumpled  paper,  dust  with 
salt  and  serve  at  once. 

Potato  Straws 

Wash,  pare  and  cut  potatoes  in  one-eighth  inch  slices ; 
in  turn  cut  these  in  one-eighth  strips.  Let  stand  one  hour 


POTATOES  403 

in  cold  water.  Drain,  dry  on  paper  towels  or  a  cloth  and 
fry  in  deep  fat  hot  enough  to  brown  a  bit  of  bread  in  one 
minute.  Drain  on  brown  paper  and  sprinkle  with  salt. 

Escalloped  Potatoes 

i  quart  sliced  raw  potatoes  4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

Salt  and  pepper  bacon  fat 

Flour  Scalded  milk,  about  3  cupfuls 

Oil  a  baking  dish  with  butter  or  bacon  fat  and  put  in  a 
layer  of  potatoes;  sprinkle  with  approximately  I  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  J  teaspoonful  salt  and  a  little  pepper, 
and  dot  with  i  tablespoonful  butter  or  bacon  fat.  Re- 
peat with  a  second  layer  of  potatoes  and  so  on  until  all 
is  used,  and  then  pour  over  the  hot  milk,  until  it  barely 
shows  through  the  potato  slices.  Cover,  bake  an  hour 
in  a  moderate  oven  and  then  finish  uncovered.  It  will 
take  one  and  one-half  hours. 

Escalloped  Potatoes  with  Bacon 

Prepare  escalloped  potatoes  according  to  the  preced- 
ing recipe,  omitting  the  fat.  Cut  the  rind  from  6  slices 
of  bacon  and  let  the  bacon  stand  five  minutes  in  boiling 
water.  Drain;  then  place  the  bacon  strips  on  a  rack 
over  the  potatoes  twenty  minutes  before  the  latter  will  be 
cooked.  The  bacon  fat  will  trickle  into  the  potatoes. 
Serve  garnished  with  the  bacon. 

Escalloped  Cooked  Potatoes 

I  quart   sliced   cooked   pota-          3  cupfuls   White   Sauce 
toes  No.  2 

Put  alternately  in  layers  in  a  buttered  baking  dish  and 
bake  thirty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Escalloped  Potatoes  with  Cheese 

Add  one  cupful  of  highly  flavored  American  cheese  to 
Escalloped  Cooked  Potatoes,  sprinkling  it  between  the 
layers. 

Lyonnaise  Potatoes 

3  cupfuls  sliced,  cold  potatoes         4  tablespoonfuls    butter,    or 

4  medium-sized  onions  other  fat 

i  tablespoonful  minced  pars-          Salt  and  pepper 
ley  (optional) 


404  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Slice  the  onions  and  fry  them,  until  yellowed,  in  the 
fat.  Then  add  the  potatoes,  dust  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  cook  gently  until  the  fat  has  been  absorbed.  Sprin- 
kle over  the  parsley,  after  the  potatoes  have  been  trans- 
ferred to  a  serving  dish. 

Italian  Lyonnaise  Potatoes 

2  cupfuls  cold  diced  potatoes         i  cupful  diced  celery  or  cab- 
2  tablespoonfuls  sliced  onion  bage 

2  tablespoonfuls  green  pep-  f  cupful  tomato  juice 

per  minced,  if  convenient  i  tablespoonful  flour 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

Fry  the  celery,  pepper  and  onions  in  the  butter  until 
yellow.  Add  the  flour,  and,  gradually,  the  tomato  to 
make  a  sauce.  Turn  in  the  potato  and  let  cook  slowly 
ten  minutes  in  the  oven.  Season  with  salt  and  a  little 
pepper  to  taste. 

French  Potato  Balls 

Pare  potatoes,  cut  out  balls  with  a  French  vegetable 
cutter,  boil  in  salted  water  till  tender,  drain,  roll  in 
minced  parsley  and  serve. 

Franconia  Potatoes 

Select  potatoes  of  uniform  size.  Wash,  pare  thin, 
and  drop  at  once  in  cold  water  to  prevent  discoloration. 
Place  in  a  pan  in  which  meat  is  roasting,  and  cook  until 
tender,  about  forty-five  minutes,  basting  frequently  with 
the  fat  in  the  pan. 

Quick  Franconia  Potatoes 

Wash,  peel  and  boil  potatoes  until  tender.  Place  in  a 
frying  pan  with  drippings  or  bacon  fat,  put  in  the  oven 
and  brown  all  over  by  basting  and  turning  frequently. 

Potato  Stew  with  Cheese 

1.0  pared  and  sliced  potatoes  2  quarts  water 

I  cupful  diced  onions  3  tablespoonfuls   flour 

i  pound  salt  pork  I  pint  milk 

i  cupful  diced  celery  Salt  and  pepper 

£  cupful  grated  cheese 

Cut  the  pork  into  thin  strips  and  fry  until  it  is  browned. 
Then  add  the  onions  and  celery  and  cook  until  they  are 


POTATOES  405 

softened;  put  a  layer  of  potatoes  into  a  soup  kettle,  and 
add  a  layer  of  the  pork  mixture,  alternating  until  all  is 
used.  Add  the  water  and  simmer  slowly  for  forty  min- 
utes. Then  turn  in  the  milk,  scalded,  and  add  the 
thickening  diluted  with  cold  water.  Let  boil  and  season 
to  taste ;  serve  with  a  spoonful  of  grated  cheese  sprinkled 
over  each  serving. 

Creamed  Potatoes 

3  cupfuls  cold  cooked  po-  2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

tatoes  cut  in  dice  2  tablespoonfuls   flour 

2  cupfuls  milk  a  teaspoonful  salt 

I  teaspoonful  onion  juice  £  teaspoonful  pepper 
(optional) 

Make  a  white  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour,  seasonings  and 
milk ;  add  the  potato,  and  let  stand  to  become  very  hot. 

Creamed  Lyonnaise  Potatoes 

1  cupful  milk  3  cupfuls  cold  cooked  po- 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  tatoes,  diced 

2  tablespoonfuls  drippings  i  teaspoonful  salt 

3  tablespoonfuls  minced  i  teaspoonful  pepper 
onion 

Fry  the  onion  in  the  drippings  till  soft.  Add  the  flour, 
then  the  milk,  seasonings  arid  potatoes.  Turn  into  a 
warm  omelet  pan  containing  two  extra  tablespoonfuls  of 
drippings,  press  down  into  shape  and  cook  slowly  till 
golden  brown  on  the  bottom.  Turn  over  and  tip  out  on  a 
hot  platter.  Garnish  with  parsley. 

Delmonico  Potatoes 

3  cupfuls  diced  potatotes  4  teaspoonful  pepper 

2'  cupfuls  milk  3  tablespoonfuls  flour 

I  teaspoonful  salt  3  tablespoonfuls   butter 
•i  cupful  grated  cheese 

Make  a  white  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour,  milk  and  sea- 
sonings. Add  one-half  of  the  cheese  and  the  potatoes. 
Pour  into  a  buttered  baking  dish,  sprinkle '  with  the  re- 
maining cheese  and  dot  with  bits  of  butter.  Brown  in  a 
quick  oven. 

Delmonico  Cream  Roll  Potatoes 

3  cupfuls  chopped  cooked  po-          4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 
tatoes  other  fat 

I  cupful  white  sauce,  well- 
seasoned 


406  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Mix  the  white  sauce  with  the  potatoes.  Melt  the  but- 
ter in  a  frying  pan,  pack  in  the  potatoes,  cover  and  cook 
slowly  till  all  the  white  sauce  has  been  absorbed.  This 
may  be  done  in  the  oven,  if  convenient.  Then  brown 
quickly  on  the  bottom,  fold  or  roll  up,  and  turn  onto  a 
hot  platter. 

Creamed  Potatoes  au  Gratin 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  i  teaspoonful  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  cupfuls  milk  £  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

1  teaspoonful  minced  parsley  £  cupful  buttered  dry  crumbs 

2  cupfuls  cold  boiled  pota- 
toes, diced 

Make  a  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour,  seasonings  and  milk. 
When  it  has  boiled,  add  the  parsley  and  potato  and  put 
in  a  buttered  baking  dish  or  ramekins.  Cover  with  but- 
tered crumbs,  and  set  in  a  quick  oven  to  brown.  Serve 
garnished  with  parsley. 

Boiled  Sweet  Potatoes 

Wash  and  scrub  the  potatoes.  Plunge  into  boiling 
water  and  cook  covered  until  soft,  probably  twenty-five 
to  thirty  minutes.  Never  cook  dry,  woody  sweet  pota- 
toes, as  they  are  decayed. 

Steamed  Sweet  Potatoes 

Wash  and  scrub  the  potatoes.  Steam  until  tender  — 
about  forty-five  minutes. 

French  Fried  Sweet  Potatoes 

Peel  the  potatoes,  then  cut  into  quarters  and  eighths. 
Let  stand  an  hour  in  cold  salted  water,  then  dry  on  paper 
towels.  Place  in  a  frying  basket  and  fry  in  deep  fat  hot 
enough  to  brown  a  bit  of  bread  in  one  and  a  half  minutes. 

Broiled  Sweet  Potatoes 

Select  well-shaped  sweet  potatoes  and  boil  or  steam 
them  as  directed.  Peel,  cut  in  halves  lengthwise  and  dip 
in  melted  butter  or  other  fat  till  well  covered.  Place  in 
a  wire  broiler  and  broil  on  each  side  over  a  moderate 
heat  till  well  browned.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish  covered  with 
a  paper  doily. 


POTATOES  407 

Browned  Mashed  Sweet  Potatoes 

3  cupfuls  riced  sweet  pota-  li  teaspoonfuls  salt 

toes  Pepper 

i  cupful  butter 

Beat  well,  place  in  a  buttered  baking  dish  and  brown 
in  a  quick  oven. 

Sugared  Sweet  Potatoes 

2j  cupfuls  mashed  sweet  po-  i  tablespoonful  sugar 

tatoes  i  egg,  well-beaten 

i  tablespoonful  butter  Extra  butter  and  sugar 
i  teaspoonful  salt 

Butter  a  baking  dish.  Beat  together  the  potatoes  with 
the  butter,  salt,  sugar  and  egg  and  pile  in  the  baking  dish. 
Dot  with  butter,  sprinkle  with  sugar  and  bake  until 
brown  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Sweet  Potatoes  with  Bacon 

Steam  sweet  potatoes  until  tender.  Peel  and  place  in 
a  dripping  pan  in  a  hot  oven  with  one  slice  of  bacon  for 
each  potato.  Cook  until  the  bacon  is  crisp,  and  the 
potatoes  are  slightly  browned. 

Sweet  Potatoes  Glace 

Boil  or  steam  sweet  potatoes  until  tender.  Peel  and 
cut  in  thick  slices  lengthwise.  Place  in  a  buttered  pan, 
cover  with  bits  of  butter,  a  thick  sprinkling  of  brown 
sugar,  and  a  little  cinnamon,  and  bake  until  a  rich  brown. 

Maple  Sweet  Potatoes 

Boil  or  steam  long,  narrow  sweet  potatoes  in  their 
jackets.  Remove  the  skins,  then  cut  the  potatoes  in  thin 
crosswise  slices  and  brown  them  quickly  in  deep  fat. 
Drain  on  crumpled  paper,  and  transfer  to  a  shallow  bak- 
ing dish;  dust  sparingly  with  salt  and  granulated  sugar, 
and  pour  over  a  little  maple  syrup.  Heat  quickly  in  the 
oven  and  serve. 

Sweet  Potatoes  With  Peanuts 

Cut  boiled  sweet  potatoes  into  lengthwise  slices.  Lay 
in  a  well-oiled  dripping  pan,  or  baking  platter,  cover 
thickly  with  chopped  roasted  peanuts,  pour  over  a  little 
melted  butter  and  brown  in  a  quick  oven. 


CHAPTER  XV 
VEGETABLES 

ALL    MEASUREMENTS    ARE    LEVEL 

In  the  chapter  on  the  Balanced  Ration  the  importance 
of  vegetables  in  the  diet  has  been  explained.  Every 
family  should  use  them  freely,  for  they  are  vital  for  effi- 
cient nutrition  and  good  health.  To  understand  the  pos- 
sibilities of  vegetables  in  the  menu  and  diet,  it  is  neces- 
sary mentally  to  classify  them  into  six  groups : 

1.  Meat  Substitutes 

2.  Starchy  Vegetables 

3.  Bulky  Vegetables 

4.  Vegetables  rich  in  Salts 

5.  Watery  Vegetables 

6.  Esthetic  Vegetables 

The  group  of  legumes  belongs  under  the  first  heading 
and  includes  beans,  peas  and  lentils.  Whereas  the  dried 
seeds  are  a  most  valuable  meat  substitute  and  an  all-year 
food,  the  fresh  pods  or  dried  fresh  pods  are  no  richer  in 
protein  than  any  other  vegetable.  Under  "  starchy  vege- 
tables "  we  find  the  cereals,  the  two  most  frequently  used 
being  corn  and  rice.  Polished  rice  should  never  be  used, 
as  it  is  coated  with  talc.  Both  it  and  uncoated  rice  are  al- 
most entirely  starch,  containing  only  a  small  amount  of 
protein,  fat  and  mineral  matter.  For  this  reason  it  should 
serve  as  an  accompaniment  to  meats  or  other  proteins  or 
as  a  cereal.  Brown  rice,  on  the  other  hand,  contains  all  of 
the  grain,  and,  like  home-ground  cornmeal,  is  a  splendid 
food  in  itself.  The  potato  should  be  mentioned  here  as 
a  specific  example  of  the  starchy  vegetable.  The  sweet 
potato  is  also  included  in  this  group. 

Asparagus,  carrots,  spinach,  salsify,  cabbage,  romaine, 
beets,  swiss  chard  and  dandelion  greens  and  celery  are 
all  bulky  vegetables,  particularly  suitable  to  use  with  a 
menu  of  concentrated  foods  like  eggs,  or  cheese,  for  they 

408 


VEGETABLES  409 

afford  the  necessary  bulk  to  help  on  the  intestinal  action, 
and  consequently  aid  digestion. 

This  same  list  really  includes  the  "  vegetables  rich  in 
salts  "  and  to  it  may  be  added  radishes,  lettuce,  cress, 
endives,  tomatoes,  squash,  egg  plant  and  cucumbers, 
which  contain  more  or  less  mineral  salts  and  a  large  per- 
centage of  water.  Because  of  these  two  properties  this 
group  is  indispensable,  as  it  affords  direct  salts  to  the 
blood  and  water  to  bathe  the  body  tissues.  Under 
esthetic  vegetables  may  be  grouped  those  which  are  essen- 
tially used  as  seasonings,  a  trace  giving  a  dish  the  sparkle 
necessary  to  make  it  out  of  the  ordinary.  Radishes  have 
this  property,  so  have  parsley  and  watercress,  but  it  is 
most  marked  in  the  green  or  red  pepper. 

COMPOSITION  OF  VEGETABLES 

A  slight  knowledge  of  the  composition  of  vegetables  is 
of  great  help  in  their  preparation.  They  are  made  up  of 
countless  little  cells,  each  containing  a  semi-fluid  material 
holding  the  sugar,  protein,  starch  and  salts  in  solution. 
The  layer  next  the  skin  is  richest  in  salts.  Knowing  this 
the  thinking  housewife  will  realize  that  vegetables  must 
be  cooked  in  such  a  way  as  to  retain  the  semi-fluid  ma- 
terial, and  to  keep  in  the  salts.  So  she  will  always  use 
boiling  water,  which  has  the  property  of  bursting  the 
starch  grains  immediately,  so  holding  the  nutriment  in 
the  vegetable;  preferably  she  does  not  pare  them  at  all, 
steaming  them  instead.  As  the  plant  grows  older  the  cell 
walls  harden  into  woody  fiber,  necessitating  longer  cook- 
ing, and  as  soon  as  the  vegetables  are  taken  from  the 
ground  the  water  commences  to  evaporate,  and  they  be- 
come withered  or  shriveled,  as  the  case  may  be. 

To  overcome  this,  it  is  necessary  to  put  them  into  cold 
water,  so  that  they  may  re-absorb  the  moisture,  remem- 
bering that  this  treatment  should  be  used  only  when 
necessary,  as  every  minute  of  soaking  means  a  propor- 
tionate loss  of  salts. 

HOW  TO  COOK  VEGETABLES 

It  has  been  said  that  "  The  secret  of  cooking  vegetables 
is  the  judicious  production  of  flavor."  If  this  statement 


410  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

is  amended  to  read  "  the  judicious  production  and  reten- 
tion of  flavor,"  the  secret  of  the  whole,  wide  field  of 
vegetable  cookery  is  revealed.  Unfortunately  American 
housewives  know  only  too  little  about  the  preparation  of 
vegetables,  their  food  value  and  utter  deliciousness,  and, 
whereas  the  vegetable  is  easily  cooked,  it  generally  ap- 
pears in  a  state  of  watery  tameness  —  and  finds  conse- 
quent disfavor.  No  matter  how  the  vegetable  is  to  be 
served,  there  are  a  few  fundamental  rules  which  underlie 
the  cookery. 

All  boiled  vegetables  should  be  started  in  boiling  salted 
water.  This  should  be  kept  boiling  rapidly  for  beans, 
onions,  cabbage,  turnips,  carrots,  etc.,  but  should  be  kept 
at  a  gentle  boil  for  cauliflower  and  asparagus  —  both  of 
which  are  broken  by  too  rapid  boiling.  Peas  and  as- 
paragus contain  a  high  percentage  of  sugar,  so  they 
should  be  cooked  in  as  little  water  as  possible,  the  liquor 
being  the  basis  of  a  sauce  to  be  served  with  them. 
Salted  water  (a  teaspoonful  to  each  two  quarts)  is  used 
for  all  tender  vegetables  except  potatoes,  which  should 
be  salted  after  draining,  and  shaken  gently  over  the  heat 
to  steam  in  the  seasoning.  Tough  vegetables,  like  old 
beans  or  peas,  are  improved  by  the  addition  of  a  little 
baking  soda.  This  makes  them  soft,  but  allows  much  of 
the  green  coloring  matter  to  cook  out  into  the  water,  re- 
sulting in  a  distasteful  color. 

All  dried  vegetables,  like  peas  or  lentils,  should  be 
soaked  over  night  to  re-absorb  the  water  lost  through 
evaporation,  and  this  liquid  should  be  discarded.  Vege- 
tables should  always  be  cleaned  before  cooking,  and,  un- 
less old,  should  never  be  pared.  During  the  boiling 
process  the  cover  should  be  tilted  to  allow  a  circulation 
of  air,  which  insures'  a  better  color  and  flavor.  All 
strong- juiced  vegetables,  like  cabbage,  cauliflower  and 
onions,  should  be  cooked  uncovered.  This  allows  the 
vapors  to  be  dissipated  rather  than  condensed,  the  odor 
being  largely  dispelled,  and,  if  a  piece  of  wood  charcoal 
is  put  into  the  kettle,  the  flavors  will  be  absorbed  and  all 
disagreeable  odors  overcome.  Occasionally  vegetables 
are  so  strong  in  flavor  that  it  is  desirable  to  "  blanch  " 
them.  To  do  this,  start  in  cold  water,  bring  to  the  boil- 


VEGETABLES          4" 

ing  point,  boil  ten  minutes,  drain  the  water  into  the  stock- 
pot,  and  proceed  as  usual  with  fresh  boiling  water. 

Although  it  is  customary  to  boil  vegetables,  they  may 
be  prepared  in  two  other  ways  —  by  steaming  or  baking. 
To  steam  vegetables,  scrub  them  well,  cut  out  any  soft 
spots,  and  place  in  a  steamer,  or  in  a  colander  fitted  over 
a  kettle  and  covered,  and  steam  until  tender.  This  takes 
a  little  longer  than  it  will  to  boil  them,  but  they  will  be  of 
delicious  flavor.  This  method  can  be  used  for  onions, 
potatoes,  cabbage,  corn,  cauliflower,  carrots,  squash,  tur- 
nips, beets,  etc. —  or  the  vegetables  which  are  of  firm  tex- 
ture. Many  of  this  same  group  can  be  baked  in  the  oven. 
In  this  case  set  them  in  shallow  pans,  containing  a  little 
water  to  prevent  sticking.  If  vegetables  are  to  be  boiled, 
use  the  smallest  possible  amount  of  water,  and,  if  it  is 
not  available  for  a  sauce,  turn  it  into  the  stock-pot.  By 
steaming,  the  loss  in  nutritive  constituents  is  only  one- 
third  as  much  as  in  boiling,  and  the  proportion  is  the 
same  for  baking. 

As  for  seasonings  —  there  is  nothing  better  than  a 
judicious  amount  of  salt  and  pepper,  with  plenty  of  -but- 
ter. A  particularly  good  old-fashioned  cook,  noted  for 
her  vegetable  cookery,  said,  "  I  always  use  just  as  much 
butter  as  I  can  afford,  then  turn  my  back  and  put  in  a 
little  more !  "  But  when  the  vegetable  is  to  appear  as 
the  principal  dish  of  a  meal,  it  must  be  dressed  with  a 
more  elaborate  sauce,  or  combined  with  other  foods  into 
a  "  hearty  dish." 

Whereas  the  vegetable  has  a  clearly  defined  place  in 
every  dietary,  it  must  be  remembered  that  it  is  not  in 
itself  an  adequate  substitute  for  meat,  and  must  be  used 
in  combination  with  meat  or  meat  substitutes,  in  order  to 
preserve  the  dietary  balance.  This  does  not  necessarily 
mean  that  the  combination  appear  directly  with'  the  vege- 
table. It  may  be  used  in  the  salad,  or  any  part  of  the 
meal  that  is  convenient. 

The  following  menus  illustrate  this  point : 

Escalloped  Asparagus  Entire  Wheat  Bread  and  Buttei 

Egg  Salad,  with  Cream  Cheese  Dressing 
Coffee  Cream  Cake  Tea 

The  asparagus  is  the  principal  dish,  yet  it  does  not  con 


412 


MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 


tain  the  greatest  nutriment ;  —  approximately  it  gives 
bulk  and  salts  and  has  the  property  of  filling  the  stom- 
ach (known  as  the  satisfying  of  hunger)  ;  the  egg  salad, 
cheese,  and  the  entire  wheat  bread  contain  the  principal 
protein  of  the  meal,  the  cream  cheese  and  butter  much  of 
the  fat,  and  the  cake  furnishes  starch  and  sweet. 
Another  menu  reads : 

Rice,  with  Tomato  Sauce  and  Baked  Bacon 

Lettuce  Salad  Entire  Wheat  Bread  and  Butter 

Baked  Custards  Cookies 

Generally  speaking  in  this  case  the  fat  is  supplied  by 
the  bacon  and  butter,  the  bulk  by  the  lettuce,  the  starch 
by  the  bread  and  rice,  and  the  protein  by  the  bread  and 
egg  and  the  custards. 


Time  Table  for  Cooking  Vegetables 

Boiling  or  Baking 

Vegetables  Steaming 

Artichokes  (French)    30  to  50  minutes 

Artichokes '(Jerusalem)    40 to  50 

Asparagus    20  to  30 

Lima   Beans    40  to  60 

String  Beans 45  to  60        " 

New   Beets    30  to  45  60  minutes 

Brussels    Sprouts    20  to  30 

Cabbage    10  to  45 

Carrots    20  to  30  40  minutes 

Cauliflower 30  to  40 

Celery   30  to  40 

Celeriac    30  to  40 

Corn 7  to  12        " 

ICale,   Spinach   and   Endive....  30  ii  hours 

Cucumbers    30  i  hour    (stuffed) 

Egg  Plant 25  45  minutes 

Onions 40  to  60  50  minutes  to   ii 

Oyster   Plant    60  hours 

Okra    20  to  30 

Parsnips  60  ii  hours 

Peas 20  to  30         ' 

Radishes : 30 

Summer  Squash    30  to  35 

Winter  Squash li  hours  2  hours    (in 

shells) 

Turnips   45  to  60  minutes 

Tomatoes  15  to  20        "  30  minutes 


VEGETABLES  413 

Plain  Fried  Egg  Plant 

Pare  the  egg  plant  and  cut  it  in  slices  one-fourth  inch 
thick.  Season  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  egg  and 
crumb,  as  in  making  croquettes,  and  fry  to  a  golden  color 
in  fat  hot  enough  to  brown  a  bit  of  bread  in  one  minute. 

Fried  Egg  Plant,  with  Creamed  Corn 

Prepare  the  egg  plant  as  directed  in  the  preceding 
recipe,  and  serve  on  a  bed  of  creamed  corn. 

Mock  Mushrooms 

3  cupfuls  egg  plant  cut  in  4         i  teaspoonful  salt 

inch  cubes  &  teaspoonful  pepper 

ii  cupfuls  brown  stock  Few  drops  Worcestershire 

Few  grains  nutmeg  sauce 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  Few  drops  onion  juice 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

Plunge  the  egg  plant  into  boiling,  slightly-salted  water 
and  cook  till  tender,  about  twenty  minutes.  Make  a 
brown  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour,  seasonings  and  the 
stock.  Drain  the  egg  plant  into  the  stock-pot,  add  to  the 
sauce  and  re-heat. 

Stewed  Egg  Plant 

3  cupfuls   egg  plant  cut   in  ii  tablespoonfuls  minced  sar- 
cubes  dines 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter,  olive  ii  cupfuls  canned  tomato 

oil  or  peanut  oil  juice 

2  tablespoonfuls  minced  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

onion  I  teaspoonful  minced  pars- 
Juice  and  grated  rind  i  lemon  ley 

Boil  the  egg  plant  cubes  for  twenty  minutes.  Drain, 
add  the  butter  and  other  ingredients,  and  simmer  until 
heated  and  slightly  thickened.  Serve  very  hot. 

Stuffed  Egg  Plant 

Cook  a  good-sized  egg  plant  fifteen  minutes  in  boiling, 
salted  water  to  cover.  Cut  a  slice  from  the  top  and  with 
a  spoon  remove  the  pulp,  taking  care  not  to  work  too 
close  to  the  skin.  Chop  the  pulp  and  add  I  cupful  of 
soft  whole  wheat  bread  crumbs.  Melt  2  tablespoonfuls 
butter,  add  ^  tablespoonful  onion,  chopped  fine,  and  cook 
five  minutes;  or  use  bacon  or  ham  fat  instead  of  butter. 


414  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Add  to  the  chopped  pulp  and  bread,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and,  if  necessary,  moisten  with  a  little  stock; 
cook  five  minutes,  cool  slightly  and  add  one  beaten  egg. 
Re-fill  the  egg  plant,  cover  with  buttered  bread  crumbs 
and  bake  twenty-five  minutes  in  a  hot  oven.  A  half  cup- 
ful of  minced  ham  or  a  little  cooked  bacon  may  be  added 
if  desired. 

Baked  Stuffed  Onions 

Remove  the  skins  from  the  onions  and  parboil  the  lat- 
ter thirty  minutes  in  boiling  salted  water  to  cover.  Use 
the  liquid  for  soup.  Turn  upside  down  to  cool,  and  re- 
move part  of  the  centers.  Fill  the  cavities  with  equal 
parts  of  nuts,  chopped  fine,  stale  soft  bread  crumbs,  and 
the  onion  which  has  been  removed,  finely  chopped,  sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper  and  moistened  with  cream  or 
melted  butter  and  a  little  peanut  butter.  Place  in  a  but- 
tered, shallow  baking  pan ;  sprinkle  with  buttered  crumbs, 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  the  onions  are  soft. 
Minced  ham,  cheese  or  tongue  may  be  substituted  for  the 
nuts.  In  this  case  omit  the  peanut  butter. 

Baked  Onion  Tomatoes 

Select  large,  round  tomatoes,  and  cut  in  halves  cross- 
wise. Dust  with  sage,  salt  and  pepper,  and  place  a  large 
thin  slice  of  onion,  cut  crosswise,  on  each.  Put  a  half 
teaspoonful  of  butter,  or  savory  drippings,  on  each  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  thirty  minutes.  The  pan 
should  have  a  little  water  in  the  bottom. 

Onions  a  la  Tripe 

6  medium-sized  Spanish  2  cupfuls   White    Sauce 

onions  No.  2 

3  hard-cooked  eggs,  sliced  Mashed  potatoes,  or  boiled 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter,  oleo-  brown  rice 
margarine,    or    beef    drip- 
pings 

Peel  the  onions,  and  cut  them  in  one-fourth  inch  slices. 
Fry  these  gently,  until  soft  and  yellowed,  in  the  fat. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Add  the  white  sauce,  the 
eggs,  and  let  stand  to  become  very  hot.  Pile  the  potatoes 
or  rice  in  the  center  of  a  chop  dish  or  platter,  and  pour 
the  onion  mixture  over  it* 


VEGETABLES  415 

Baked  Onions 

Slice  Bermuda  or  Spanish  onions  about  an  inch  thick ; 
place  in  a  casserole  or  baking  dish  and  dust  thickly  with 
flour ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  dot  with  butter  or 
bacon  or  ham  drippings.  Put  a  second  layer  on  top,  sea- 
son and  flour  in  the  same  way,  and  almost  cover  with 
boiling  water.  Cover  and  cook  gently,  for  an  hour  and  a 
half  to  two  hours  in  a  moderate  oven.  The  resulting 
sauce  may  be  thinned  with  a  little  rich  milk  or  cream,  if 
'desired,  or  the  onions  may  be  baked  in  a  broth  or  brown 
stock  instead  of  water. 

French  Fried  Onions 

Peel  large  onions.  Cut  them  in  slices  crosswise  about 
one-quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Then  cut  the  slices  so 
that  the  onion  will  be  in  strings  about  three  inches  long. 
Roll  these  strings  in  slightly-beaten  egg  white,  diluted 
with  a  fourth  cupful  of  cold  water  to  an  egg  white  and 
well-seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  then  toss  in  fine, 
dry  bread  crumbs.  Plunge  them  in  deep  fat  hot  enough 
to  brown  a  bit  of  bread  in  a  minute  and  cook  until  golden 
brown.  Then  drain  on  crumpled  paper. 

Young1  Onions  in  Cream  Sauce 

Cut  off  the  tops  of  young  onions  about  three  inches 
from  the  bulbs.  Boil  the  onions  gently  in  salted  water 
until  tender,  arrange  on  buttered  toast,  and  pour  over  a 
cream  sauce. 

Creamed  Onions 

Peel  the  onions.  Cook  uncovered  in  boiling  water 
until  soft.  Then  drain  and  serve  with  white  sauce. 

If  the  onions  are  small,  serve  them  whole.  If  large, 
chop  coarsely  with  a  knife.  To  be  digestible  they  should 
be  very  soft. 

Escalloped  Onions 

Use  left-over  cooked  onions  for  this  dish.  Arrange 
them  in  alternate  layers  in  a  well-oiled  baking  dish,  with 
White  Sauce  No.  2,  and  bestrew  with  coarse  dry  bread 
crumbs,  mixed  with  2  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter  or 
oleomargarine  to  the  cupful.  Bake  thirty  minutes,  or 
until  browned,  in  a  moderate  oven.  If  desired,  a  thinly 
shredded  green  pepper,  which  has  been  cooked  until  soft 


416  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

in  drippings,  may  be  sprinkled  through  the  onion  layers ; 
or,  grated  cheese  may  be  sprinkled  on  the  top  of  each 
layer.  In  this  case  the  dish  is  substantial  enough  for  the 
main  course  at  luncheon. 

Turnips  in  Beef  Broth 

Scrub  the  turnips  and  cook  in  boiling  water  till  nearly 
done.  Then  peel,  cut  in  one-half  inch  slices,  and  nearly 
cover  with  well-seasoned  beef  broth.  Simmer  until  ten- 
der, when  the  turnips  should  have  absorbed  most  of  the 
broth.  Use  the  remaining  liquid  as  a  sauce.  If  desired, 
the  turnips  after  boiling  may  be  sliced,  sprinkled  with 
flour,  put  in  a  casserole,  covered  with  broth  and  baked. 

Diced  Yellow  Turnips 

Peel  yellow  turnips  and  cut  them  into  small  dice ;  cook 
in  boiling  salted  water  until  nearly  done.  Drain,  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter  to  each  cupful  of  turnips  and  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste. 

Buttered  Parsnips 

Scrub  the  parsnips  thoroughly,  and  cook  in  boiling, 
salted  water  until  tender.  Drain,  plunge  in  cold  water 
and  then  remove  the  skins;  cut  the  parsnips  in  slices 
lengthwise  and  set  in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  with  bits 
of  butter  to  become  very  hot.  Sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste  before  serving. 

Parsnip  Cakes 

Boil  the  parsnips  until  tender.  Drain  and  plunge  in 
cold  water,  when  the  skins  will  slip  oft"  easily.  Mash, 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  to  each  cupful  of  pulp,  sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper,  shape  in  small  flat  round  cakes, 
roll  in  flour  and  fry  on  a  griddle. 

Parsnips  Baked  in  Stock 

Wash  the  parsnips,  cook  till  nearly  done  in  salted,  boil- 
ing water,  and  remove  the  skins.  Cut  in  quarters,  put  in 
a  baking  dish,  half  cover  with  well-seasoned  stock,  and 
bake  until  the  stock  is  absorbed. 


f         VEGETABLES  417 

Creamed  Parsnips  on  Toast 

3  medium-sized  parsnips  2  cupfuls  milk 

2i  tablespoonfuls  flour  \  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls    butter  Buttered  toast 

£  teaspoonful  salt 

Plunge  the  parsnips  in  boiling,  salted  water,  and  cook 
until  tender.  Remove  the  skins,  and  cut  the  parsnips  in 
six-inch  strips.  In  the  meantime,  make  a  white  sauce  of 
the  remaining  ingredients.  Arrange  the  parsnips  on 
toast,  pour  over  the  white  sauce  and  serve. 

Baked  Cauliflower 

Soak  the  cauliflower,  head  down,  in  salted  water  for 
thirty  minutes.  Then  boil  it.  Separate  it  into  branches, 
and  to  each  pint  allow  a  cupful  of  either  plain  white  or 
tomato  sauce.  Mix  the  cauliflower  with  this,  turn  into  a 
well-oiled  baking  dish,  and  re-heat  in  a  moderate  oven, 
at  the  same  time  baking  in  the  oven  sufficient  bacon  for 
the  family.  Serve  this  as  a  garnish  on  the  cauliflower,  or 
substitute  small  sausages.  Mashed  potatoes,  or  potato 
croquettes,  are  a  good  accompaniment. 

Baked  Cauliflower  and  Mushrooms 

2  cupfuls  diced  boiled  cauli-  Chicken  or  veal  stock,  well- 
flower  seasoned 

1  cupful  canned  or  fresh  Flour 
mushrooms  Salt  and  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

Fry  the  mushrooms  in  the  butter,  until  they  are 
slightly  yellowed.  Butter  a  baking  dish;  put  in  a  layer 
of  cauliflower,  and  then  one  of  mushrooms.  Sprinkle 
with  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  and  continue  in  this  way  until 
all  is  used.  Cover  with  the  stock,  put  on  the  lid  and  bake 
for  thirty  minutes.  Two  tablespoonfuls  of  minced  green 
peppers  may  be  added  to  the  mushrooms,  while  they  are 
being  fried. 

Cauliflower  with  Diced  Turnips 

2  cupfuls  turnips,  finely  diced          3  tablespoonfuls  butter 
2  cupfuls  cauliflower  flower-          Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

ets 

Boil  the  turnips,  until  nearly  tender,  in  salted  water, 
then  add  the  cauliflower  and  continue  cooking  until  all  is 


418  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

tender  —  it  will  take  about  forty  minutes  altogether. 
Drain  off  the  liquor  into  the  stock-pot;  season  the  vege- 
tables with  the  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  very 
hot. 

Cauliflower  Pudding 

1  small  cauliflower  4  eggs 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  4  tablespoonfuls   grated 

ij  cupfuls  milk  cheese 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Boil  or  steam  the  cauliflower  till  half  done,  then  cut  it  in 
slices  and  fry  in  half  the  butter.  Add  one-half  the  milk; 
cream  together  the  flour  and  the  remaining  butter,  add  to 
the  remaining  milk  as  in  making  white  sauce,  stir  in  the 
cheese,  add  the  cauliflower  and  pour  into  the  eggs  well- 
beaten.  Transfer  to  a  buttered  mould  and  bake  in  an 
oven  hot  at  first,  then  moderate,  until  firm  in  the  center, 
about  thirty  minutes.  Turn  out  when  tepid  and  serve  at 
once. 

Brussels  Sprouts  with  Chestnuts 

i  pint  boiled  Brussels  sprouts  £  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

i  pint  blanched  chestnuts  Brown  soup  stock  —  about  i£ 

Flour  cupfuls                     .  . 
Salt  and  pepper 

Boil  the  chestnuts  for  five  minutes,  and  remove  the 
shells  and  inner  skins.  This  is  called  blanching.  But- 
ter a  baking  dish,  put  in  a  layer  of  the  sprouts,  then  one 
of  chestnuts  cut  in  pieces ;  dust  on  it  a  little  salt,  pepper 
and  flour,  and  continue  in  this  way  until  all  is  used. 
Pour  over  the  stock,  which  should  be  well-seasoned,  and 
to  which  should  be  added  the  onion  juice.  Cover  and 
cook  for  half  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Browned  Chestnuts 

Blanch  the  chestnuts,  as  described  in  the  recipe  for 
Brussels  Sprouts  with  Chestnuts.  Cut  them  in  pieces, 
saute  (fry)  them  lightly  in  a  little  butter,  and  for  each 
two  cupfuls  of  halved  chestnuts  allow  ij  cupfuls  of 
brown  sauce.  Simmer  together  gently,  until  the  chest- 
nuts are  perfectly  tender. 

Browned  Chestnuts  with  Mushrooms 
Prepare  the  mixture  as  described  in  the  recipe   for 


VEGETABLES  419 

Browned  Chestnuts,  substituting  a  cupful  of  boiled  and 
quartered  mushrooms,  or  canned  mushrooms,  for  one 
cupful  of  the  chestnuts. 

Chestnut  Puree 

Blanch  the  chestnuts.  Boil  them,  until  tender,  in  as 
small  amount  of  brown  stock  as  is  possible  to  use  without 
burning  them.  Rub  through  a  sieve ;  season  with  butter, 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  serve  with  game  or  poultry. 

Cauliflower  Greens 

Save  the  outer  green  leaves  of  cauliflower,  boil  until 
tender  in  salted  water,  chop,  and  season  with  salt,  pep- 
per and  butter  or  bacon  fat. 

Cauliflower  au  G  rat  in 

i  cauliflower  Buttered  crumbs  to  cover 

i  cupful  white  sauce  No.  2 

Soak  the  cauliflower,  head  down,  thirty  minutes  in 
salted  water.  Boil  until  tender;  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper,  cover  with  buttered  crumbs,  and  place  in  the  oven 
till  brown.  Serve  surrounded  with  white  sauce,  and 
sprinkled  with  grated  cheese. 

Creamed  Cauliflower 

Remove  the  leaves,  cut  off  the  stalks,  scrub  the  cauli- 
flower, and  separate  into  flowerets,  cook  until  soft  in 
boiling,  salted  water.  Drain  and  cut  in  dice,  re-heating 
in  i-|  cupfuls  White  Sauce  No.  I.  Use  the  cauliflower 
liquor  as  a  basis  for  soup. 

Cauliflower  Hollandaise 

Boil  the  cauliflower  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  serving 
with  Hollandaise  sauce. 

Fried  Flowerets  of  Cauliflower 

Let  the  cauliflower  stand  thirty  minutes,  upside  down, 
in  cold  salted  water.  Plunge  into  boiling,  salted  water, 
and  boil  gently  until  tender.  Cool,  separate  into  flower- 
ets, sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  roll  in  dried  crumbs, 
egg  and  crumbs  again,  like  croquettes,  and  fry  in  deep  fat 
hot  enough  to  brown  a  bit  of  bread  in  forty  counts.  Drain 


420  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

on  crumpled  paper,  and  serve  piled  on  a  dish  covered  with 
a  paper  doily.  Sprinkle  with  minced  green  pepper,  celery 
and  pimentoes. 

Brussels  Sprouts  au  G  rat  in 

Remove  any  wilted  outer  leaves.  Then  boil  a  quart  of 
Brussels  sprouts.  Add  a  pint  of  White  Sauce  No.  i  ; 
mix  well,  and  pour  into  a  buttered  baking  dish.  Bestrew 
with  f  cupful  buttered  crumbs,  mixed  with  4  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  grated  cheese,  and  brown  in  a  quick  oven. 

French  or  Globe  Artichokes 

Allow  one  medium-sized  artichoke  for  each  person. 
Cut  half  the  stems  off  with  the  bottom  leaves,  strip  off  the 
withered  outer  leaves,  and  the  following  layers,  until  the 
leaves  begin  to  feel  tender.  Then  cut  these  top  leaves 
across,  even.  As  soon  as  prepared,  drop  each  artichoke 
in  cold  water  containing  a  little  vinegar  to  prevent  dis- 
coloration and  let  soak  for  half  an  hour.  Wash  thor- 
oughly and  boil  until  tender  in  salted  water. 

Or,  if  the  artichokes  are  very  large,  cut  them  in  two 
and  allow  a  half  to  each  person.  Serve  hot  with  sauce 
tartare,  white  sauce,  Bechamel  sauce,  Hollandaise,  French 
dressing  or  drawn  butter. 

Jerusalem  Artichokes 

Wash  the  artichokes,  scrape  them,  and  drop  them  in 
acidulated  water,  as  in  the  directions  for  preparing 
French  artichokes.  Cook  until  tender  in  boiling  salted 
water,  but  take  care  not  to  overcook  them  or  they  will 
turn  woody.  Drain,  slice  them  and  dress  with  salt,  pep- 
per and  butter,  or  re-heat  in  a  white,  or  Bechamel  sauce, 
or  serve  escalloped  according  to  the  directions  for  Escal- 
loped  Oyster  Plant. 

Celery,  Club  Style  • 

Trim  off  the  tough  outer  stalks.  Pare  the  celery  root 
to  a  point  then  cut  the  whole  stalk  lengthwise  into  quar- 
ters, or  sixths,  according  to  the  size,  and  let  stand  in 
cold  water  to  crisp.  The  white  tips  should  not  be  re- 
moved. 


VEGETABLES  421 

Creamed  Celery 

2  cupfuls  diced  celery  2i  tablespoonfuls  flour 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  i  cupful  milk 

£  teaspoonful  salt  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Remove  the  strings  from  the  outer  stalks  of  celery. 
Wash  the  stalks  well  with  a  brush,  and  cut  them  into 
half-length  pieces.  Put  in  a  saucepan  with  a  slice  of 
onion  (if  desired),  and  2  cupfuls  of  hot  water  and  sim- 
mer till  tender,  about  thirty  minutes.  Drain,  reserving 
the  liquor;  make  a  white  sauce  of  the  butter,  flour,  sea- 
sonings, milk  and  one  cupful  of  the  celery  liquor.  Add 
the  drained  celery  and  serve  very  hot. 

Celery  and  Cheese  au  Gratin 

2  cupfuls  celery  cut  in  \  inch  i  cupful  rich  milk  or  cream 

pieces  2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

1  cupful,  celery  stock  I  cupful  grated  cheese 

2  tablespoonfuls   flour  I  cupful  buttered  crumbs 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Cook  the  celery  in  2  cupfuls  of  water  till  tender;  re- 
serve a  cupful  of  the  celery  stock  and  add  to  the  milk. 
Melt  the  butter,  add  the  flour  and,  gradually,  the  liquid, 
allowing  it  to  boil  up  once.  Add  the  seasonings;  and 
celery.  Pour  half  of  this  into  a  buttered  baking  dish, 
add  one-half  the  grated  cheese,  then  the  remaining  celery 
and  cheese ;  cover  with  the  buttered  crumbs  and  brown  in 
the  oven.  Garnish  with  celery  tips. 

Celery  Curls 

Cut  tender  stalks  of  celery  into  two-inch  lengths. 
Fringe  each  end  to  within  an  eighth  of  an  inch  of  the 
center,  and  drop  into  ice  water  to  "  curl,"  or  fringe  out. 

Creamed  Celery  on  Ham  Toast 

Celery  sticks,  3  inches  long  Minced  ham 

White  Sauce  No.  2  Buttered  toast 

Allow  six  sticks  to  a  person,  simmering  them  till  ten- 
der in  salted  water  barely  to  cover.  (Do  not  throw  the 
liquor  away;  add  it  to  the  stock-pot.)  Spread  the  but- 
tered toast  with  the  ham,  arrange  on  a  platter,  pour  over 
the  cream  sauce,  and  arrange  six  sticks  of  celery  on  each 
slice  of  toast. 


422  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Celery  Jelly 

2  cupfuls  chopped  celery,  i  tablespoonful  granulated 
stalks  and  leaves  gelatine,  softened  in  water 

2^  cupfuls  water  to  cover 

i  slice  onion  I  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

Bit  of  bay  leaf  t  teaspoonful  sugar 

Slice  of  carrot  i  cupful  diced  celery 

Bit  of  thyme 

Simmer  the  chopped  celery,  onion  and  seasonings  in 
the  water,  adding  enough,  as  it  evaporates,  to  keep  it 
always  a  pint.  Strain  and  season  it;  add  the  gelatine, 
lemon  juice  and  sugar,  and,  when  slightly  solidified,  stir 
in  the  diced  celery.  Pour  into  individual  moulds,  and 
let  stiffen.  Serve  as  a  garnish  to  cold  meat,  or  as  a  salad 
with  mayonnaise  and  nuts,  or  sliced  tomatoes. 

Fried  Celery  Tips 

Dip  tender  celery  tips  in  fritter  batter,  drain,  and  fry 
crisp  in  deep  fat  hot  enough  to  brown  a  bit  of  bread  in 
forty  seconds.  Use  as  a  garnish  to  chicken. 

String  Beans  with  Bacon 

6  slices  bacon  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

3  cupfuls  cooked   string  ij  cupfuls  milk 
beans                                                2  tablespoonfuls  flour 

Fry  the  bacon  in  a  small  pan.  Reserve  2  tablespoon- 
fuls of  the  fat  in  the  pan,  add  the  flour  and,  gradually, 
the  milk,  as  in  making  white  sauce.  Cut  the  beans  in 
inch  pieces,  turn  them  into  the  sauce  and  mix  in  the 
cooked  bacon,  cut  in  pieces.  Season  to  taste,  and  serve 
on  toast  or  plain. 

String  Beans  Vinagrette 

Boil  the  beans  until  tender.  Drain,  and,  while  still 
hot,  pour  over  vinagrette  sauce  made  as  described  in 

asparagus  vinagrette. 

IP 

Steamed  Winter  Squash 

Cut  Hubbard  squash  in  pieces  of  convenient  size  to  fit 
a  steamer  top  or  large  sieve.  Place  over  boiling  water 
and  steam  until  tender,  about  one  hour.  Scrape  the  pulp 
from  the  hard  shell,  put  through  a  potato  ricer  or  sieve, 


VEGETABLES  423 

and  season  with  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  trace  of 

sugar. 

Baked  Squash 

Wash  and  scrub  winter  squash.  Cut  in  halves,  cross- 
wise, scrape  out  the  seeds  and  pulp,  place  in  a  pan  con- 
taining a  small  amount  of  hot  water,  and  bake,  until  soft, 
probably  one  to  one  and  one-quarter  hours.  When  soft, 
scrape  from  the  shell,  add  i  tablespoonful  of  butter  to 
each  cupful  of  pulp,  -J  teaspoonful  salt,  and  -J  teaspoonful 
of  pepper.  Mix  well  and  serve  hot.  If  desired  sweet, 
add  brown  -sugar  to  taste. 

Baked  Stuffed  Summer  Squash 

6  small  turban  squashes  i  tablespoonful  minced  onion 

I  cupful  soft  bread  crumbs  i  teaspoonful  minced  parsley 

i  cupful  any  kind  cold  meat,  i  green  pepper,  minced 

ham  preferred  Salt  and  pepner  to  taste 

Tomato  iuice  to  moisten  i  tablespoonful  melted  butter 
i  cupful  tomato  pulp 

Hollow  out  the  squashes  and  boil  gently  in  salted  water 
for  thirty  minutes.  Drain  and  dry,  sprinkle  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  fill  with  a  stuffing  made  of  the  other  in- 
gredients. If  too  dry,  moisten  with  tomato  juice,  cover 
with  buttered  crumbs,  place  in  a  baking  pan,  half  cover 
with  stock  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  until  tender  —  about 
forty  minutes.  Serve  with  a  well-seasoned  tomato,  brown 
or  white  sauce. 

Fried  Summer  Squash 

Wash,  but  do  not  pare,  crook-necked  summer  squash. 
Cut  in  slices  crosswise,  and  fry  according  to  the  direc- 
tions for  fried  egg  plant! 

Creamed  Oyster  Plant 

Scrape  the  oyster  plant  and  drop  it  into  water  contain- 
ing a  little  vinegar  to  prevent  discoloration.  Drain  and 
boil  in  salted  water  until  tender  —  about  twenty-five  min- 
utes ;  then  cut  in  dice,  shake  over  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour  for  each  cupful  of  oyster  plant,  add  a  cupful  of 
milk,  a  little  butter  and  salt  and  pepper,  let  boil  up  and 
serve. 


424  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Escalloped  Oyster  Plant 

2  bunches  oyster  plant  i  minced    green    pepper,    if 

2  cupfuls  soft  stale  bread  convenient 

crumbs  2  tablespoonfuls  minced 

i  cupful  butter  or  other  fat  onion 

Brown  stock 

Scrape  the  oyster  plant,  boil  it  until  tender,  and  cut  it 
in  dice ;  butter  a  baking  dish,  put  in  a  layer  of  the  crumbs, 
fried  slightly  with  the  butter  and  green  pepper ;  then  add 
a  layer  of  oyster  plant,  and  continue  in  this  way  until  all 
is  used.  Cover  with  boiling  stock,  then  with  dry  bread 
crumbs  mixed  with  a  little  extra  melted  butter  and  bake 
thirty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Old-Fashioned  Succotash 

i  pint  red  kidney  beans  (or  I          i  can  of   corn  or  3  cupfuls 
pint  shell  beans)  fresh  corn  cut  from  the  cob 

1  pound  salt  pork  Salt  and  pepper 

Soak  the  beans  over  night  in  'water  to  cover.  In  the 
morning  drain,  add  more  water,  salt  and  a  pinch  of  bak- 
ing soda,  and  cook  until  tender,  about  four  hours.  They 
should  be  kept  moist.  Then  add  the  corn,  season  to 
taste,  let  boil  up  and  serve  with  corn  bread.  An  onion 
gives  additional  flavoring,  if  desired.  If  fresh  beans  are 
used,  it  is  not  necessary  to  soak  them  over  night. 

Farm  Custard 

2  cupfuls  cooked  corn  i  quart  milk 

2  cupfuls  cooked  lima  beans,          i  tablespoon ful  butter 

chopped  21  teaspoonfuls   salt 

6  eggs  £  teaspoonful  pepper 

Scald  the  milk,  add  the  salt  and  pepper,  pour  into  the 
eggs,  which  should  be  slightly  beaten,  and  add  the  vege- 
tables. Transfer  to  a  buttered  baking  dish,  set  in  a  pan 
of  boiling  water,  and  cook  gently  as  any  baked  custard, 
until  the  mixture  is  set  in  the  middle.  Serve  with  a 
bread  sauce.  If  .desirable,  the  mixture  may  be  cooked  in 
individual  custard  cups,  unmonlded  upon  toast,  and 
served  as  timbales.  In  this  case  they  should  be  sur- 
rounded by  the  sauce,  and  a  sprig  of  parsley  should  be 
inserted  in  each  one.  Fried  bread  crumbs  may  be  used 
as  a  further  garnish. 


426  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Tomatoes  Stewed  with  Onions 

6  medium-sized  onions  I  teaspoonful  sugar 

2  green  peppers  Salt  and  pepper 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  i  pint  canned  tomato 
savory  drippings 

Slice  the  onions  and  shred  the  peppers,  then  cook 
gently  in  the  fat  until  softened.  Add  the  tomato,  season 
and  stew  gently  for  twenty  minutes. 

Mexican  Tomatoes 

i  pint  stewed  tomatoes  3  tablespoonfuls  chopped 

1  pint  stewed  corn  peppers 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  i  teaspoonful  sugar 
bacon  fat                                         I  teaspoonful  salt 

Few  grains  cayenne  4  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

Melt  the  butter,  add  the  peppers  and  cook  until  soft- 
ened. Turn  in  the  tomato  and  corn,  add  the  remaining 
seasonings,  and  let  stand  to  become  thoroughly  heated. 

Escalloped  Tomato  with  Onions 

3  cupfuls  canned  or  stewed  3  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 
tomato  other  fat 

i  teaspoonful  salt  i  cupful  crumbs,  mixed  with 

i  teaspoonful  pepper  3  tablespoonfuls  melted  but- 

ii  cupfuls  cooked  onions  ter 

Butter  a  baking  dish.  Add  the  seasoning  to  the  to- 
mato, and  put  a  layer  in  the  bottom  of  the  dish.  Add  a 
layer  of  onions,  then- one  of  tomato,  and  continue  until 
the  dish  is  filled.  Dot  with  bits  of  butter,  between  each 
layer,  and  put  the  buttered  crumbs  on  top.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  from  thirty  to  forty-five  minutes. 

Escalloped  Tomatoes  with  Whole  Wheat  Bread  Crumbs 
Rub  a  baking  dish  with  butter,  oleomargarine  or  bacon 
drippings,  and  a  clove  of  garlic  if  the  flavor  is  desired. 
Put  in  alternate  layers  of  stewed  and  seasoned  tomatoes, 
and  dry  whole  wheat  bread  crumbs,  making  the  last  layer 
crumbs  mixed  with  2  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter, 
oleomargarine  or  bacon  drippings  to  the  cupful.  Bake 
thirty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Fried  Tomatoes 

Select  medium-sized  tomatoes,  wash  them,  remove  the 


VEGETABLES  427 

stem  ends,  and  cut  in  thick  crosswise  slices.  Dust  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Dip  in  flour  and  fry  until  browned  in 
drippings  or  bacon  fat.  Serve  with  meats,  on  toast  with 
white  sauce,  with  a  garnish  of  bacon  or  fried  salt  pork, 
or  slightly  sprinkled  with  sugar. 

If  desired  to  fry  them  in  deep  fat,  egg  and  crumb  as 
for  croquettes  and  fry  in  deep  fat  hot  enough  to  brown  a 
bit  of  bread  in  a  minute.  In  this  case  they  will  brown 
more  evenly. 

Baked  Stuffed  Tomatoes 

Various  fillings  may  be  used  in  preparing  baked  stuffed 
tomatoes  —  as  any  kind  of  meat  or  fish,  well-seasoned 
crumbs,  or  creamed  corn  or  celery.  The  tomatoes  should 
not  be  peeled,  but  merely  hollowed  out,  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  filled  level  with  the  stuffing,  then  be- 
strewn with  buttered  crumbs ;  put  in  muffin  pans  and 
bake  about  twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  They 
may  be  served  on  buttered  toast,  with  white  sauce, 
creamed  onions  or  corn,  or  creamed  ham  or  other  meat, 
as  imagination  —  and  the  larder  —  may  dictate. 

Baked  Tomatoes  with.  Bacon 

6  well-shaped  tomatoes  6  toast  rounds 

6  thin  slices  bacon  Seasonings 

Remove  the  skins  from  the  tomatoes  by  means  of  boil- 
ing water.  Dust  with  salt,  pepper  and  sugar,  and  place 
on  a  baking  plate.  Cover  the  bottom  of  the  plate  with 
hot  water;  place  a  piece  of  bacon  on  top  of  each  tomato, 
and  set  in  a  hot  oven  to  cook.  It  will  take  about  twenty 
minutes.  Serve  on  buttered  rounds  of  toast,  moistened 
with  water  from  the  pan. 

Fried  Cucumbers 

Pare  the  cucumbers,  cut  them  in  crosswise  slices  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  and  dust  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Dip  theni  in  flour,  then  in  egg  and  crumbs  as  for  cro- 
quettes, and  fry  in  deep  fat  hot  enough  to  brown  a  bit 
of  bread  in  a  minute.  They  taste  much  like  oysters. 

Creamed  Cucumbers 

Pare  the  cucumbers ;  cut  in  strips  and  then  into  dice. 
Boil  gently  in  salted  water  until  tender  (about  twelve 


428  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

minutes),  then  drain,  and  add  White  Sauce  No.  2  (2  cup- 
fuls  sauce  to  i-J  cupfuls  cucumber).     Season  and  serve. 

Baked  Stuffed  Cucumbers 

3  small  cucumbers  Tomato  juice  to  moisten 

i  cupful  soft  bread  crumbs  £  tablespoonful  minced  onion 

1  cupful   cold  meat    (any  I  teaspoonful  minced  parsley 
kind)  i  green    pepper,    chopped 

£  cupful  tomato  pulp  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

Pare  the  cucumbers  and  cut  in  halves,  lengthwise. 
Boil  gently  six  or  seven  minutes  in  salted  water.  Drain, 
scoop  out  the  seeds,  and  fill  the  halves  with  stuffing  made 
of  the  other  ingredients.  If  too  dry,  moisten  with  tomato 
juice.  Cover  with  buttered  crumbs,  place  in  a  baking 
dish,  surround  with  the  cucumber  water,  and  bake  in 
a  slow  oven  for  forty  minutes.  Serve  with  a  well-sea- 
soned brown  or  tomato  sauce. 

Celeriac 

Pare  the  bulbs  and  cook  until  tender  in  boiling,  salted 
water.  They  may  be  sliced  before  cooking  if  desired. 
When  tender,  drain  and  dress  with  salt,  pepper  and  but- 
ter, or  re-heat  in  a  cream  or  brown  sauce. 

Brown  Celeriac 

2  cupfuls  celeriac  cubes  2  tablespoonf uls  flour 

2  cupfuls  brown  or  chicken  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
stock                                                   i  tablespoon! ul  tomato 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter  catsup 

Wash  and  scrape  the  celeriac.  Cut  in  small  cubes  and 
fry  until  softened  in  2  tablespoonfuls  of  the  butter.  Add 
the  stock  and  simmer  until  tender.  Rub  the  flour  and 
remaining  butter  together,  thicken,  add  the  seasonings, 
let  boil  and  serve  very  hot. 

Buttered  Beets 

'  Wash  the  beets  and  cook  whole  and  unpared  in  boiling 
water  until  tender,  an  hour  for  new  beets,  four  for  old. 
Drain,  plunge  into  cold  water  and  remove  the  skins.  Cut 
in  slices,  crosswise,  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste  and  2 
tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter  to  every  three  cupfuls  of 
sliced  beets.  Let  become  very  hot  before  serving. 


VEGETABLES  429 

Baked  Young  Beets  with  Lemon  Juice 
Wash  the  beets  and  rub  them  lightly  with  any  fat  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  they  are  tender.  This 
will  take  from  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  quarter  for 
young  beets.  Then  plunge  them  in  cold  water  and  rub 
off  the  skins ;  slice  the  beets.  For  each  2  cupf uls  allow  2 
tablespoonfuls  of  lemon  juice.  Pour  this  over  the  beets; 
dust  with  salt  and  pepper  and  let  stand  ten  minutes  in  a 
warm  place  to  season. 

Winter  Beets 

Soak  the  beets  an  hour  in  cold  water,  then  boil  gently 
until  tender  (about  three  hours).  Plunge  at  once  into 
cold  water,  rub  off  the  skins  and  cut  the  beets  into  dice. 
To  each  three  cupfuls  add  2  tablespoonfuls  butter,  J  tea- 
spoonful  mustard,  2  tablespoonfuls  vinegar,  -J  teaspoon- 
ful  sugar  and  a  little  Worcestershire  sauce.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Pickled  Beets  with  Onions 

i  pint  sliced  cooked  beets,  or          i  tablespoon ful  pickling 

i  can  beets  spice 

I  cupful  thinly-sliced  onions          i  pint  weak  vinegar 

I  tablespoon  ful  sugar 

Heat  the  spice,  sugar  and  vinegar  to  boiling  point,  pour 
over  the  beets  and  onions  arranged  alternately  in  a  deep 
dish,  and  let  stand  two  hours  to  season. 

Mushrooms  on  Toast 

Peel  the  mushrooms,  remove  the  stems,  peel  them  and 
cut  in  dice.  For  each  half  pound  of  mushrooms  melt  3 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  frying  pan.  Add  \  tea- 
spoonful  onion  juice,  a  little  salt  and  pepper  and  a  dash 
of  nutmeg.  Turn  in  the  mushrooms  and  fry  slowly  for 
about  twenty  minutes,  or  until  they  are  soft.  Then  add 
ij  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  for  each  half  pound,  mix  in 
thoroughly  and  add  i  cupful  of  light  cream,  or  i  cupful 
of  brown  stock.  Let  simmer  for  a  few  minutes  and 
serve  on  toast. 

Mushrooms  with  Bacon 

i  pound  mushrooms  Buttered  toast 

i  pound  bacon  sliced  thin 


430  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Peel  the  mushrooms ;  remove  the  stems  and  peel  them. 
Fry  the  bacon  till  crisp,  then  remove  from  the  pan.  Chop 
the  mushroom  stems,  coarsely,  and  fry  them  together 
with  the  caps  in  the  bacon  fat.  Season  lightly  with  a  sus- 
picion of  nutmeg.  Serve  on  toast,  with  a  piece  or  two 
of  bacon  to  garnish  each  serving. 

Escalloped  Mushrooms 

I  pound  mushrooms  Few  grains  nutmeg 

2!  cupfuls  soft  bread  crumbs  Salt  and  pepper 

i  cupful  butter  Brown  soup  stock 
1  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

Peel  the  mushrooms,  and  cut  the  caps  in  dice  and  the 
stems'  in  bits.  Butter  ramekins,  put  in  a  layer  of  the 
crumbs  fried  slightly  in  the  butter,  then  one  of  mush- 
rooms, sprinkle  with  the  seasonings,  and  continue  in  this 
way  until  all  is  used.  Pour  over  the  stock,  heated, 
sprinkle  the  tops  with  extra  dry  bread  crumbs  mixed 
with  a  little  melted  butter  and  bake  thirty  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

Steamed  Pumpkin 

Break  open  the  pumpkin,  remove  the  seeds  and  strings, 
cut  the  shell  in  pieces,  and  steam  until  the  pulp  is  tender, 
about  an  hour  and  a  half.  Scrape  from  the  shell  and  'sift. 

Fried  Pumpkin 

Prepare  steamed  pumpkin  as  directed  in  the  preced- 
ing recipe;  spread  the  desired  quantity  in  the  bottom  of  a 
hot  skillet  containing  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  bacon 
or  salt  pork  drippings.  Cook  gently  until  browned  on 
the  bottom,  and  serve  garnished  with  cooked  bacon  or 
salt  pork  as  a  breakfast  dish,  or  without,  as  a  vegetable. 

Pumpkin  as  a  Vegetable 

Cut  the  pumpkin  in  large  pieces,  scrape  out  the  seeds, 
and  place  the  sections  in  a  dripping  pan  containing  a 
little  water.  Bake  until  the  pulp  is  mealy,  then  scrape  it 
out  of  the  shells,  sift  it  (as  squash),  and  season  well  with 
salt,  pepper,  butter,  a  little  sugar  and  a  generous  dash 
of  tomato  catsup. 


VEGETABLES  431 

Peppers  Stuffed  with  Brown  Rice 

6  medium-sized  peppers  i  teaspoonful  Worcester- 
2  cnpfuls  cooked  brown  rice  shire  sauce 

1  cupful  tomato  pulp  i  cupful  sausage  meat 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  i  pint  White  Sauce  No.  2 
•h  teaspoonful  pepper 

Cut  the  tops  from  the  peppers  and  scoop  out  the  seeds. 
Mix  together  the  rice,  tomato,  butter  (melted),  pepper, 
Worcestershire,  sausage  meat,  and  salt  to  taste.  Fill  the 
peppers  two-thirds  full.  Place  on  a  baking  plate  and 
put  a  teaspoonful  of  butter  or  bacon  drippings  on  top  of 
each  one.  Pour  a  half  inch  of  water  in  the  dish,  and 
bake  the  peppers  half  an  hour  (or  until  tender),  basting 
with  the  liquid  in  the  pan.  Serve  surrounded  with  the 
sauce. 

Stuffed  Nut  Peppers 

6  green  peppers  1  cupful  well-seasoned  to- 

2  cupfuls  soft  bread  crumbs  mato,    brown    or    white 

i  cupful   chopped   walnuts    '  sauce 

Seasoning  to  taste 

Remove  the  tops  from  the  peppers  and  scoop  out  the 
cores  and  seeds.  Place  in  cold,  salted  water,  bring 
quickly  to  boiling  point,  remove  and  drain.  Mix  to- 
gether the  crumbs  and  nut  meats,  moisten  well  with  the 
sauce,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper  and  stuff  the 
peppers.  Sprinkle  with  buttered  crumbs  and  bake  until 
tender  (about  thirty  minutes)  in  a  moderate  oven,  bast- 
ing occasionally  with  hot  water  containing  a  little  butter. 

Green  Peas 

Shell  the  peas,  and  reserve  the  pods.  Put  them  on  to 
cook  for  one-half  hour  in  a  quart  of  boiling  water  to 
two  quarts  of  pods.  Use  the  resulting  liquid  as  a  basis 
for  cream  of  pea  soup. 

Cook  the  peas  themselves  in  boiling  water  to  barely 
cover,  adding  ^  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  J  teaspoonful  of 
sugar  to  a  pint  of  water.  Cook  from  twenty  to  sixty 
minutes,  according  to  the  age  of  the  peas,  and  season  well 
with  butter,  just  before  serving.  The  liquid  should  be 
of  small  quantity  and  act  as  a  sauce. 


432  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Creamed  Peas 

Cook  fresh  peas  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe, 
add  an  equal  quantity  of  rich  milk  or  cream  to  the  liquid 
left  from  cooking  the  peas  and  thicken  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  and  butter  rubbed  together  to  a  cup- 
ful of  liquid.  Season  to  taste. 

If  canned  peas  are  used,  rinse  them  with  cold  water, 
and  re-heat  in  White  Sauce  No.  2,  using  f  cupful  of  the 
sauce  to  a  can  of  peas. 

Savory  Carrots 

6  medium-sized  carrots  Few  grains  pepper 

i  tablespoonful  sugar  2  tablespoonfuls    minced 

1  teaspoonful  salt  parsley 

2  tablespoonfuls  melted  but-          i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 
ter 

Scrape  the  carrots,  cut  lengthwise,  and  boil  or  steam 
until  tender.  Then  place  in  a  saucepan  with  the  melted 
butter,  and  add  the  other  seasonings.  Let  become  very 
hot  and  serve. 

Glace  Carrots 

Boil  or  steam  the  desired  number  of  carrots;  pare  and 
cut  in  quarters.  Place  in  a  baking  dish,  dust  rather 
thickly  with  granulated  sugar  and  dot  with  butter,  and 
add  a  suspicion  of  mace.  Pour  in  a  little  water  and  bake, 
until  coated,  with  the  sugar  syrup  —  about  thirty  min- 
utes. 

Creamed  Carrots 

Steam  or  boil  the  carrots  until  tender,  pare  and  cut  in 
dice.  Make  White  Sauce  No.  2,  add  the  diced  carrots 
and  serve.  If  desired,  an  equal  number  of  peas  may  be 
combined  with  the  carrots. 

Carrots  en  Casserole 

3  cupfuls  carrots  cut  in  small         z  cloves 

cubes  2  cupfuls  strained  tomato 

2  small  onions  juice 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter  &  teaspoon ful  nutmeg 
i  teaspoonful  salt  I  teaspoonful  sugar 

&  teaspoonful  pepper  3  tablespoonfuls  flour 

i  cupful  minced  ham  or  ij  cupfuls  water 

corned  beef 


VEGETABLES  433 

Let  the  carrots  stand  in  cold  water  at  least  ten  min- 
utes. Chop  the  onions  and  saute  (fry)  .with  the  car- 
rot* in  butter  for  five  minutes.  Add  the  flour  and  sea- 
sonings, stirring  well,  then  the  tomato,  ham  and  water. 
When  boiling  pour  into  a  casserole  and  bake  two  hours. 

Carrots  with  Butter  Sauce 

3  cupfuls  chopped  or  diced  2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

carrots  i  teaspoonful  sugar 

2*  cupfuls  boiling  water  Few  grains  pepper 

ii  teaspoonfuls  salt  2  tablespoonfuls  flour 

Fry  the  carrots  in  butter  till  a  little  soft ;  add  the  flour, 
seasonings  and  water.  Let  boil,  then  simmer  till  the  car- 
rots are  tender,  about  an  hour. 

Carrot  Straws 

i  pound  carrots  cut  in  \  cupful  sugar 

match-like  strips  2  small  bay  leaves 

1 1  cupfuls    vinegar    (mild)  \  teaspoonful   whole  cloves 

I  cupful  water  Grating  lemon  rind 

1  inch  stick  cinnamon 

Boil  the  carrots,  then  cook  together  the  vinegar,  water, 
sugar,  bay  leaves,  cloves  and  cinnamon.  Add  the  car- 
rots and  let  stand  at  least  twenty-four  hours  before  serv- 
ing. Serve  plain,  dressed  with  oil,  or  on  lettuce  with 
salad  dressing. 

Creamed  Cabbage 

2  cupfuls    shredded    cabbage         i£  cupfuls  White  Sauce 

No.  i 

,v 

Shred  the  cabbage  and  place  in  rapidly  boiling,  salted 
water.  Cook  until  tender,  about  twenty-five  minutes; 
drain  and  add  to  the  white  sauce.  Re-heat  and  serve. 

Quick  Cabbage 

Chop  the  cabbage  fine.  Plunge  into  boiling,  salted 
water  and  boil  rapidly  for  twelve  minutes.  Season  with 
pepper  and  a  little  butter  if  desired.  Put  the  cooking 
liquid  in  the  stock-pot. 

Creamed  Cabbage  with  Peppers 

Shred  the  cabbage  and  boil  twenty-five  minutes  in 
salted  water.  For  each  pint  of  cooked  cabbage  allow 


434  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

ij  cupfuls  milk,  2  minced  green  peppers,  2  tablespoon- 
fuls  minced  onion,  I  teaspoonful  salt,  -J  teaspoonful  pep- 
per, i  tablespoonful  flour  and  2  tablespoonfuls  of  b'ut- 
ter.  Melt  the  butter  and  cook  the  onion  and  pepper  till 
yellowed  in  it.  Add  the  flour,  then  the  milk,  gradually, 
and,  when  boiling,  the  seasoning.  Turn  in  the  cabbage, 
let  become  very  hot  and  serve  sprinkled  with  coarse 
crumbs  of  bread  fried. 

Cabbage  au  G  rat  in 

3  cupfuls  chopped  cabbage  ii  tablespoonfuls   butter 

i  hard-cooked   egg  I  teaspoonful  salt 

ij  cupfuls  milk  &  teaspoonful  pepper 
i  cupful  buttered  crumbs 

Boil  the  cabbage  rapidly  in  salted  water  for  twenty- 
five  minutes.  In  the  meantime,  make  a  sauce  of  the 
flour,  butter  and  milk,  add  the  seasonings,  stir  in  the  cab- 
bage and  egg,  which  should  be  chopped,  and  pour  into 
a  well-oiled  baking  dish.  Cover  with  buttered  crumbs 
and  bake  till  brown. 

Sour  Cabbage  (Dutch) 

I  medium-sized   head   cab-  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

bage   (3  pounds)  li  cupfuls  sour  cream 

1  teaspoonful  salt  £  cupful  weak  vinegar 

Shred  the  cabbage  fine,  wash  it  thoroughly  and  put  it 
in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  hot  water.  Cover  closely  and 
let  it  simmer  for  four  hours.  At  the  end  of  three  hours 
and  a  half  add  the  cream,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper,  toss 
well  and  let  cook  till  the  liquid  is  absorbed,  and  the  cab- 
bage is  whitened. 

Stewed  Cabbage  with  Dumplings 

2  quarts  chopped  cabbage  i  teaspoonful  salt 

i  pint  chopped  tart  apple  2  quarts  boiling  water 

8  slices  salt  pork  Dumplings 

Cut  the  salt  pork  in  small  pieces ;  cook  out  the  fat  and 
remove  the  pork.  Add  the  apple  and  cabbage,  sprinkle 
with  salt,  and  -pour  over  the  water.  Cook  for  thirty  min- 
utes, then  add  the  dumplings,  cook  fifteen  minutes  longer, 
and  serve  with  the  salt  pork  added  to  the  stew. 


VEGETABLES  435 

Cabbage  Rolls 

2i  cupfuls  any  left-over  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

meat  Few  grains  mace 

i  egg  Cabbage  leaves 

i  cupful  soft  crumbs  soaked 
in  i  cupful  milk 

Mix  together  the  meat,  egg,  crumbs  and  seasonings. 
Select  large  cabbage  leaves,  scald  with  boiling  water  to 
wilt  them,  and  place  a  generous  spoonful  of  the  meat 
mixture  on  each.  Roll  up,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  place 
fold-side  down  on  a  rack  in  a  steamer,  and  steam  half 
an  hour.  Serve  with  white  or  tomato  sauce,  or  brown 
gravy.  Large  lettuce  leaves  may  be  substituted  for 
the  cabbage. 

Steamed  Stuffed  Cabbage 

i  solid  head  cabbage  i  cupful   milk 

I  pound  sausage  meat  i  egg 

I  cupful  bread  crumbs  i  teaspoonful  mace 

Select  a  well-shaped  head  of  cabbage  weighing  about 
three  pounds.  Cut  a  slice  off  the  top  and  hollow  out 
the  cabbage,  leaving  a  thin  shell.  Make  a  stuffing  of  the 
other  ingredients,  and  pack  into  the  cabbage  which 
should  be  freshened  by  standing  thirty  minutes  in  cold 
water.  Then  tie  in  a  cloth  to  aid  in  preserving  the  shape 
and  steam  until  tender,  from  ij  to  2  hours.  Serve  with 
tomato  sauce.  Use  the  cabbage  that  is  scooped  out  for 
salad  or  quick  cabbage. 

Devilled  Cabbage 

Add  to  a  quart  of  cooked,  shredded  cabbage,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  2  tablespoon fuls  of  vinegar,  \  tea- 
spoonful  mustard,  \  teaspoonful  onion  juice  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce.  A  few  grains  of 
sugar  and  a  little  salt  are  an  improvement.  Serve  with 
ham  or  beef  loaf. 

Hot  Slaw 

i  tablespoonful  sugar  i  egg 

I  tablespoon fnl  flour  I  cupful  milk 

i  teaspoonful  salt  \  cupful  weak  vinegar 

Few  grains  pepper  3  cupfuls  shredded  cooked 

Few  grains  mustard  cabbage 


436  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Mix  the  fjrst  six  ingredients  thoroughly  in  a  double 
boiler  top ;  then  add  the  milk  and  cook  over  hot  water  till 
thickened.  Add  the  vinegar,  cook  a  little  longer,  stir  in 
the  cabbage  and  serve  hot. 

Sour  Red  Cabbage 

1  medium-sized  head  I  teaspoonful  salt 
red  cabbage  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  £  cupful  mild  vinegar 
other  fat  £  cupful  grape  juice 

4  tablespoonfuls  chopped 
onion 

Shred  the  cabbage.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add 
the  onion  and  cook  until  yellowed.  Add  the  cabbage 
and  let  cook  slowly  twenty  minutes  over  a  slow  heat. 
Then  dust  in  the  salt  and  pepper,  add  the  vinegar  and 
grape  juice,  and  cook  rapidly  for  fifteen  minutes.  Serve 
hot  with  meat  of  any  kind. 

Stewed  Red  Cabbage 

4  cupfuls  shredded  cabbage  i  tablespoonful  vinegar 

2  cupfuls  brown  stock  I  tablespoonful  tomato 
i  tablespoonful  finely-  catsup 

minced  onion  i  tablespoonful  flour 

\  teaspoonful  salt  i  tablespoonful  butter 
i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Stew  the  cabbage  gently  in  the  stock  and  seasonings 
till  tender  (about  twenty-five  minutes).  Then  add  the 
flour  and  butter  creamed  together,  and  bring  to  a  boil, 
stirring  constantly. 

Radish  Roses  or  Tulips 

Round  radishes  may  be  cut  to  imitate  tulips ;  to  do  this 
begin  at  the  root  end  and  make  five  ^petal-like  incisions 
through  the  skin  running  three-quarters  length  of  the 
radish.  Slip  the  knife  under  these  sections  and  cut  down 
as  far  as  the  incisions  extend.  Cut  a  small  slice  off  the 
top  of  each  radish.  Place  in  cold  water  for  one  to  two 
hours,  and  the  sections  of  skin  will  fold  open,  leaving 
the  white  center,  suggesting  a  tulip  in  appearance.  Al- 
ways leave  on  one  or  two  tiny  radish  leaves  to  act  as 
handles. 


VEGETABLES  437 

• 

Creamed  Radishes 

Red  or  white  radishes  may  be  used.  If  red  radishes 
are  used,  wash  them,  leave  them  whole  and  cook  in  salted 
water  until  tender.  If  white  ones  are  used,  scrape  them 
well,  cut  them  in  dice  and  cook  in  the  same  manner.  To 
2  cupfuls  of  cooked  radishes  add  three-fourths  cupful  of 
White  Sauce  No.  2,  and  re-heat. 

Plain  Boiled  Asparagus 

Scrape  the  scales  from  the  asparagus,  tie  the  stalks  in 
bunches,  cut  off  the  tough  ends,  set  the  tips  upright  in 
boiling,  salted  water  (or  in  a  steamer  or  asparagus 
cooker),  the  tips  above  the  water  line,  cover  and  cook 
gently  until  tender.  Drain,  arrange  on  buttered  toast, 
and  season  with  a  little  melted  butter  and  salt  and  pepper, 
or  pour  over  Hollandaise,  mousseline,  or  white  sauce. 
Boil  the  tough  ends  and  use  the  liquid  for  a  cream  of 
asparagus  soup. 

Canned  Creamed  Asparagus 

2  cupfuls  asparagus,  cut  in  i  cupful  White  Sauce,  No.  I 

inch  lengths 

Open  the  can  of  asparagus,  rinse  and  expose  to  the  air 
for  thirty  minutes.  Cut  in  inch  pieces.  Add  the  as- 
paragus to  the  white  sauce,  heat,  without  stirring,  and 
serve  on  toast. 

Asparagus  Cooked  like  Peas 

Scrape  the  stalks  and  cut  off  the  tough  ends.  Then 
cut  the  asparagus  into  dice,  add  boiling  milk  to  cover,  and 
simmer  very  gently  over  a  slow  heat,  or  cook  in  a  double 
boiler  until  tender.  This  takes  about  twenty  minutes. 
Then  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter,  and  serve  ac- 
companied with  buttered  toast. 

Asparagus  Vinagrette 

I  can  asparagus,  or  3  tablespoonfuls  vinegar 

I  bunch  cooked  asparagus  5  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 

i  teaspoonful  salt  i  teaspoonful  minced  parsley 

i  teaspoonful  paprika  Few  grains  white  pepper 
i  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

Mix  the  seasonings,  oil  and  vinegar  until  emulsified. 


438  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

If  canned  asparagus  is  used,  rinse  it  thoroughly  with  cold 
water;  drain  and  pour  over  the  sauce.  Let  stand  thirty 
minutes  in  a  cold  place  and  serve. 

Asparagus  with  Parmesan  Cheese 

Allow  six  stalks  of  asparagus  to  a  person.  Steam  or 
boil  as  directed  —  then  arrange  for  service  individually 
in  fbundles  of  six,  passed  through  green  pepper  rings,  ar- 
ranged on  buttered  toast,  and  dressed  with  melted  but- 
ter and  grated  Parmesan  cheese. 

Asparagus  Loaf 

i|  tablespoonfuls   butter  or           i  cupful  minced  veal 

oleomargarine  li  cupfuls  cooked  asparagus, 

4  tablespoonfuls   flour  cut  in  inch  lengths 

i  teaspoonful  salt  4  well-beaten  eggs 

i  teaspoonful  pepper  2  cupfuls  asparagus  tips  for 

I  cupful  milk  lining  mould 

Cut  the  tips  from  two  bunches  of  cooked  asparagus  in 
three-inch  lengths.  Select  a  quart  mould  about  three 
inches  deep,  butter  it  thickly  and  cover  the  bottom  with 
paper;  line  the  sides  with  the  tips,  putting  the  green  tops 
pointing  downward,  and  arrange  a  design  of  the  tips  on 
the  bottom.  Then  make  a  sauce  by  melting  the  butter, 
adding  the  flour  and  the  milk,  slowly,  allowing  it  to 
boil.  Add  the  veal,  seasonings  and  asparagus,  and,  when 
boiling,  pour  onto  the  eggs.  Transfer  carefully  to  the 
mould,  and  set  it  in  a  pan.  Surround  with  boiling  water" 
and  cook  till  firm  in  an  oven  so  slow  that  the  water  will 
not  boil.  Serve  with  mousseline  sauce,  or  with  creamed  / 
asparagus  tips. 

Canned  Asparagus  Timbales 

£  cupful  rich  milk  4  tablespoonfuls  flour 

1  teaspoonful  salt  2  eggs 

Few  grains  pepper  I  can  asparagus 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

Cut  off  the  asparagus  tips  to  the  depth  of  small  tim- 
bale  moulds.  Prepare  three-fourths  cupful  of  asparagus 
cubes  from  the  remaining  stalks.  Butter  the  moulds, 
then  line  them  with  the  tips,  and,  if  desired,  place  a  pi- 
mento "star"  in  the  bottom  of  each.  Make  a  sauce  of 
the  butter,  flour,  milk  and  seasonings.  Add  it  to  the 


AN  ASPARAGUS  COOKER 


AN  IMPROVISED  ASPARAGUS  COOKER 


VEGETABLES  439 

asparagus  cubes  and  the  eggs,  slightly  beaten,  pour  gently 
into  the  moulds  and  bake  like  custard  in  a  pan  of  hot 
water.  Serve  with  cream  sauce. 

Asparagus  Shortcake 

Make  a  plain  shortcake  mixture  and  bake  in  two  layers. 
Split,  butter  and  put  together  with  a  bunch  of  cooked 
asparagus  cut  in  inch  lengths  and  re-heat  in  ij  cupfuls 
of  White  Sauce  No.  2.  Garnish  with  quartered,  hard- 
cooked  eggs. 

Creamed  Lettuce 

Select  a  fine  large  head  of  lettuce.  Wash  carefully 
without  separating  the  leaves  from  the  heart,  then  cut 
off  the  root,  just  below  the  white  pith.  Divide  the  let- 
tuce into  six  sections,  add  a  little  salt  and  steam  until 
tender,  about  fifteen  minutes.  Serve  each  portion  on 
toast  covered  with  White  Sauce  No.  2. 

WilteS  Lettuce 

3  heads  of  lettuce  ?  pound  sliced  raw  ham 

3  tablespoonfuls    vinegar  Few  grains  paprika 

4  drops    Worcestershire 
sauce 

Remove  the  tough  outer  leaves  of  the  lettuce ;  cut  off 
the  root,  leaving  enough  to  hold  the  leaves  together;  cut 
each  head  in  half  and  wash  thoroughly.  Place  in  a  pan 
and  scald  with  hot  water,  removing  at  once.  In  the 
meantime,  fry  the  ham  and  cut  into  bits;  drain  off  the 
fat  which  should  be  4  tablespoonfuls.  Mix  with  the 
vinegar  and  seasonings,  add  to  the  meat,  and  pour  over 
the  lettuce.  Let  stand  in  a  warm  place  to  become  well- 
seasoned  and  serve. 

Plain  Spinach 

1  peck  spinach  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  i  teaspoonful  nutmeg 
i  hard-cooked  egg  Salt  to  taste 

Remove  the  roots  from  the  spinach.  Wash  the  leaves 
in  four  changes  of  tepid  water,  then  scald  with  very 
hot  water.  This  sifts  any  remaining  grit  to  the  bot- 
tom of  the  pan.  Place  in  a  kettle  with  ^  tablespoonful 
of  salt  and  cook  till  tender  in  its  own  juice,  lifting  oc- 


440  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

casionally  to  prevent  burning.  Drain,  add  the  season- 
ings and  chop  fine.  Re-heat;  arrange  in  a  serving  dish, 
and  garnish  with  hard-cooked  egg  to  represent  a  daisy. 
Reserve  any  possible  juice  for  the  stock-pot,  or  towards 
a  cream  soup. 

Creamed  Spinach 

3  cupfuls  chopped  cooked  i£  cupfuls  White  Sauce 

spinach  No.  2 

Few   grains   nutmeg 

Combine  the  spinach,  sauce  and  nutmeg,  and  re-heat. 

Country  Pie 

li  quarts    thinly-sliced    raw  I  pint  fresh  lima  beans 

potatoes  i  pint  corn  pulp 

i  pound  saltvpork  cut  in  small  ii  teaspoonf  uls  salt 

pieces  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Cook  the  lima  beans  half  an  hour  in  the  smallest  pos- 
sible amount  of  water.  Put  a  layer  of  the  salt  pork  in 
the  bottom  of  a  deep  baking  dish  or  casserole,  then  add 
one  of  potatoes  and  a  sprinkling  of  the  corn  and  beans. 
Season,  and  repeat  until  the  dish  is  filled,  finishing  with 
the  salt  pork.  Moisten  slightly  with  the  water  in  which 
the  beans  were  boiled,  then  cover  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  forty  minutes.  The  cover  should  be  removed  the 
last  fifteen  minutes  so  that  the  pork  may  brown,  and 
excess  fluid  evaporate. 

Casserole  of  Vegetables  with  Ham 

1  pound  cabbage  I  cupful  diced  celery,  or 

2  cupfuls  carrot  cubes  i  teaspoonful  celery  seed 

2  cupfuls  diced  turnips  Hock  end  of  a  ham 

I  quart  canned  or  stewed  to-          I  cupful  brown  or  uncoated 
mato          .  rice 

3  onions,  sliced  Cloves 

Bit  of  bay  leaf  6  peppercorns 

Quarter  the  cabbage  and  place  it  with  the  other  veg- 
etables and  the  rice  alternately  in  a  crock  or  deep  cas- 
serole, putting  the  "ham  end  (from  which  the  skin  has 
been  removed)  in  the  middle,  together  with  the  spices, 
tied  in  a  bit  of  muslin.  Cover  with  boiling  water  and 
cook  very  gently  for  three  hours  in  a  slow  oven. 


VEGETABLES  441 


LEGUMES  OR  DRIED  VEGETABLES 

Dried  peas,  beans  and  lentils  are  classified  as  legumes. 
They  are  protein  foods,  or  meat  substitutes,  and  their 
place  in  the  dietary  is  described  in  the  chapter  on  the 
balanced  ration. 

They  are  all  similar  as  to  content  and  flavor  and  in 
nearly  all  cases  may  be  used  interchangeably.  They 
should  be  soaked  over  night  or  for  an  equivalent  time 
during  the  day,  thoroughly  picked  over  and  washed,  and 
then  boiled.  The  addition  of  a  little  soda  at  this  stage 
softens  the  hulls  and  makes  the  legumes  more  digestible. 

All  legumes  may  be  boiled  in  salted  water  with  or  with- 
out the  addition  of  herbs,  onions,  or  a  little  garlic.  How- 
ever, fat  should  usually  be  added  to  reinforce  the  veg- 
etable. This  may  be  in  the  form  of  fat  ham,  fat  salt 
pork,  or  bacon,  fat  corned  beef,  olive  oil  or  the  drippings 
from  bacon,  or  sausage.  After  boiling  until  soft,  any 
one  may  be  put  in  a  bean  pot,  together  with  molasses  or 
brown  sugar  and  pepper,  and  baked. 

Different  sections  grow  different  legumes.  Any 
housewife  will  profit  by  a  visit  to  a  large  grocery  store 
where  she  can  see  displayed  and  purchase  legumes  of 
various  kinds.  The  "  Navy  or  soup  bean  "  is  commonly 
used,  as  are  lima  beans  and  split  peas.  But  the  several 
varieties  of  kidney  beans,  the  many  kinds  of  cow  peas, 
and  soy  beans  are  scarcely  used  at  all,  yet  they  furnish 
one  of  the  cheapest  sources  of  protein  food  that  may  be 
obtained. 

The  legumes  need  long  slow  cooking  to  render  them 
digestible.  A  fireless  cooker  is  excellent  for  this  pur- 
pose. 

Plain  Soy  Beans 

Soak  the  beans  over  night,  boil  up  with  a  little  soda, 
drain,  and  add  water  to  cover.  To  a  pound  of  beans  use 
a  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  a  half-cupful  of  savory  drip- 
pings. Boil  until  tender,  about  eight  hours,  or  cook  over 
night  in  the  fireless  cooker.  If  desired,  a  pint  of  stewed 
tomatoes,  or  four  quartered  fresh  tomatoes  and  a  minced 
green  pepper  may  be  added  to  the  beans  half  way  of  the 
cooking.  The  drippings  may  be  omitted. 


442  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Soy  Beans  with  Samp 

Soak  over  night,  together,  a  half  pound  each  of  samp 
and  soy  beans.  In  the  morning,  drain  and  rinse,  add 
a  half  pound  of  fat  salt  pork,  cut  in  dice,  cover  with  boil- 
ing water,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  simmer  all 
day  in  a  covered  utensil.  When  done,  the  whole  mix- 
ture will  be  rather  mushy.  Add  water  as  necessary  dur- 
ing the  cooking. 

Pried  Soy  Beans  with  Samp 

Put  the  left-over  mixture  of  soy  beans  with  samp 
into  a  bread  pan,  rinsed  with  cold  water.  Let  stand  un- 
til stiff,  turn  out,  slice,  dip  in  dry  bread  crumbs  and  fry 
in  savory  drippings  on  both  sides.  Serve  with  tomato 
sauce. 

Cow  Peas  with  Brown  Bice 

Soak  a  half  pound  of  cow  peas  over  night;  in  the 
morning,  drain,  rinse  and  scald  with  a  little  hot  water 
and  soda.  Rinse  again,  cover  with  water,  add  a  half 
tablespoonful  of  salt  and  a  quarter  pound  of  diced  fat 
bacon,  or  ground  raw  beef.  Boil  gently  for  four  hours, 
adding  water  as  necessary,  then  add  a  half  pound  of 
brown  or  uncoated  rice  and  boil  an  hour  longer. 

Roast  Pork  with  Cow  Peas 

Prepare  roast  pork  as  directed  in  the  chapter  on  meats. 
In  the  meantime  a  half  pound  of  cow  peas  should  have 
been  soaked  and  cooked  until  soft.  They  should  then  be 
put  in  the  bottom  of  the  roasting  pan  underneath  the  meat 
an  hour  before  it  will  be  done,  and  cooked  until  the  meat 
is  done  and  the  peas  are  brown. 

Stewed  Soup  Beans 

1  pint  soup  beans  i  teaspoonful  pepper 
•2  tablespoonfuls  Barbadoes.  \  pound  salt  pork 

molasses  I  pint  stewed  tomatoes 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar  2  onions 

i£  teaspoonfuls  salt  ~k  teaspoonful  soda 

Soak  the  beans  over  night.  Drain,  parboil,  cover  with 
boiling  water,  add  the  soda,  the  seasonings,  the  onion, 
chopped,  and  the  pork  cut  in  small  pieces.  Simmer  for 


VEGETABLES  443 

four   hours,    replenishing   the    water   as   needed.     They 
should  be  moist,  but  not  wet,  when  done. 

Lima  Beans  in  Tomato  Sauce 

I  pint  of  dried  lima  beans  ii  teaspoonfuls  salt 

1  teaspoonful  soda  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  £  teaspoonful  onion  juice 
2-  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  2  cupfuls  stewed  and 

bacon  fat  strained  tomatoes 

Soak  the  beans  over  night.  In  the  morning  drain,  add 
the  soda,  and  cover  with  fresh  boiling  water ;  cook  slowly 
for  an  hour.  Drain  again,  add  more  boiling  water  and 
the  salt  and  cook  an  hour  longer  in  a  double  boiler. 
Then  melt  the  fat,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  seasonings 
and,  gradually,  the  tomato  juice.  Let  boil  up  once,  pour 
over  the  beans  and  serve  very  hot. 

Mexican  Beans 

i£  cupfuls  dried  red  kidney  \  cupful  chopped  salt  pork 

beans  4  tablespoonfuls  chopped 
\  teaspoonful   soda  onion 

1  cupful  stewed  tomatoes  4  tablespoonfuls  chopped 

2  teaspoonfuls  salt  green  peppers 
i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Soak  the  beans  over  night,  drain,  rinse,  cover  with 
cold  water,  add  the  soda  and  bring  to  boiling  point. 
Rinse  again.  Turn  the  salt  pork  into  a  frying  pan,  and 
fry  till  crisp,  adding  the  onion  and  green  pepper.  Then 
turn  in  the  beans,  add  the  salt  and  pepper,  with  water  to 
cover,  and  simmer  until  tender  —  about  three%hours. 

Red  Kidney  Beans  with  Spaghetti 

i  cupful  dried  red  kidney  2  tablespoonfuls   minced 

beans  onion 

i  teaspoonful  salt  2  tablespoonfuls  bacon  fat 

I  cupful  spaghetti  i4  cupfuls  tomato  juice 

Bacon  1  teaspoonful  soda 

Few  grains  pepper 

Soak  the  beans  over  night,  drain  and  stew  them  in 
salted  water  containing  the  soda.  Cook  the  spaghetti  un- 
til tender,  and  make  a  sauce  by  cooking  the  onion  in  the 
bacon  fat  until  softened,  and  adding  the  flour  and  tomato 
juice.  Season  to  taste  and  add  to  the  spaghetti.  Pour 
the  beans  (which  should  be  quite  dry)  upon  a  platter, 


444  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

surround  with  the  spaghetti,  and  garnish  with  cooked 
bacon.     This  is  suitable  for  a  dinner  dish. 

Stewed  Red  Beans  with  Salt  Pork 

2  cupfuls  dried  red  kidney  2^  teaspoonfuls  salt 
beans  8  slices  salt  pork 

3  tablespoonfttls  minced  £  tablespoonful  sugar 
onion  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

i  cupful  minced  carrot  I  teaspoonful  soda 

Soak  the  beans  over  night,  drain,  add  the  soda  and  hot 
water  to  cover,  and  boil  gently  for  one  hour.  Drain 
again.  Try  the  fat  from  the  salt  pork  and  set  the  cooked 
pork  aside.  Add  the  carrot  and  onion  to  the  fat,  fry 
until  softened,  turn  in  the  beans,  add  the  seasonings  and 
water  to  cover,  and  simmer  till  very  tender  and  the  water 
is  absorbed,  about  an  hour  longer.  Serve  garnished  with 
the  salt  pork. 

White  Kidney  Beans  with  Tomatoes 

ii  cupfuls  dried  white  kid-  i  teaspoonful  soda 

ney  beans  4  slices  salt  pork 

1  tablespoonful  minced  onion  i  tablespoonful   sugar 

2  cupfuls  stewed  tomatoes  ii  teaspoonfuls  salt 

1  teaspoonful  pepper 

Soak  the  beans  over  night,  drain  them  and  boil  up  in 
water  containing  the  soda.  Try  out  the  salt  pork,  and 
brown  the  onion  in  the  fat;  add  the  tomato,  seasonings 
and  the  beans,  barely  covering  them  with  water,  and  cook 
in  a  double  boiler  until  tender  —  about  three  hours. 

Horticultural  Bean  Loaf 

2  cupfuls  cooked  horticul-  2  eggs 

tural  beans  i  teaspoonful   salt 

3  chopped  pimentoes  Grating  of   lemon  rind 
i  cupful  bread  crumbs                     Few  drops  onion  juice 

cooked  to  a  paste  in  Few  grains  pepper 

i  cupful  water 

Mix  together  the  beans,  pimentoes,  crumb  paste  and 
the  seasonings ;  beat  the  egg  yolks  well,  add  to  the  mix- 
ture and  fold  in  the  stiffly-beaten  whites.  Pile  in  a  well- 
oiled  bread  pan  or  brick  mould,  set  in  a  pan  of  hot  water 
and  cook  until  firm.  Serve  surrounded  by  green  pepper 
sauce. 


VEGETABLES  445 

Baked  White  Kidney  Beans 

li  cupfuls  dried  white  kid-  i  teaspoonful  salt 

ney  beans  i  cupful  sour  cream 

i  tablespoonful   minced  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

onion  i  teaspoonful  sugar 

i  cupful  minced  ham  i  teaspoonful  mustard 

i  cupful  diced  celery  £  teaspoonful  soda 

Boiling  water 

Soak  the  beans  over  night,  add  the  soda,  and  stew  until 
nearly  tender.  Then  mix  with  the  other  ingredients,  add 
hot  water  nearly  to  cover  and  bake  an  hour  and  a  half 
in  a  moderate  oven,  uncovering  them  the  last  half  hour. 

i 
Boston  Baked  Beans 

i  quart  pea  beans  i  tablespoonful  salt 

I  teaspoonful  soda  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

i  pound  fat  salt  pork,  i  cupful  canned  tomatoes 

scalded,  or  (optional) 

£  cupful  bacon  drippings  £  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses 

i  teaspoonful    mustard  2  tablespoonfuls  minced 

onion 

Soak  the  beans  over  night  in  water  to  cover.  Then 
wash  them  well  and  parboil  with  the  soda  in  boiling 
water,  till  they  are  barely  tender.  Rinse  again,  put  in  a 
bean  pot  or  casserole,  mix  in  the  seasonings,  and  bury 
the  pork  at  the  bottom.  Cover  with  boiling  water,  put 
on  the  lid,  and  cook  slowly  for  six  hours  in  a  moderate 
oven.  Renew  the  water  as  needed  and  during  the  last 
two  hours  draw  the  pork  to  the  surface,  score  it  and  let 
it  brown. 

Italian  Beans 

i  cupful  Italian  Beans  i  cupful  sifted  canned  to- 
Boiling  water  mato 

4  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  i  teaspoonful  salt 

6  tablespoonfuls  grated  Few  grains  pepper 

cheese  2  tablespoonfuls  minced 
i  a  clove  of  garlic,  minced  onion 

Soak  the  beans  for  four  hours  in  water  to  cover  and 
then  drain.  Fry  the  onion  and  garlic  in  the  olive  oil 
till  softened,  then  add  the  beans,  tossing  them  about,  and 
pour  in  water  to  cover.  Season  and  boil  gently  for  four 
hours,  adding  water  to  replenish  that  lost  from  evapora- 
tion, and  turn  in  the  tomato.  Let  stand  to  become  very 
hot,  stew  with  the  cheese,  and  serve  as  the  main  dish  at 


446  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

luncheon  or  supper.     Two  minced  green  peppers  may  be 
fried  with  the  onion,  if  the  flavor  is  desired. 

Stewed  Italian  Peas 

i  cupful  Italian  Peas  I  teaspoonful  salt 

1  quart  soup  stock  Few  grains  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  i  cupful  light  cream 
Grating  of  lemon  rind 

Soak  the  peas  over  night  in  cold  water,  drain,  cover 
with  cold  water  again,  a.dd  J  teaspoonful  baking  soda  and 
bring  to  boiling  point.  Drain  again,  rinse,  toss  the  peas 
in  the  oil,  add  to  the  meat  stpck  which  should  be  boil- 
ing, season  and  simmer  till  tender  —  about  three  hours, 
replenishing  the  stock  as  it  evaporates  to  keep  the  peas 
barely  covered.  When  tender  add  the  cream  and  the 
lemon  rind,  and  serve  as  the  main  dish  at  luncheon  or 
supper,  or  as  a  vegetable  accompaniment  to  a  meal  light 
in  meat. 

Baked  Lentils 

2  cupfuls  German  lentils  21  onions,  minced 

i  cupful  diced  celery  i  teaspoonful  sugar 

i  cupful  stewed  tomatoes  ii  teaspoonfuls  salt 

4  slices  salt  pork   (diced)  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Soak  the  lentils  over  night,  then  drain  and  boil  up 
in  water  containing  a  little  soda.  Drain  again,  mix  with 
the  other  ingredients  and  pour  into  a  bean  pot  or  cas- 
serole. Barely  cover  with  water  and  bake  gently  for 
four  hours,  uncovering  during  the  last  hour. 


CHAPTER  XVI 
THE  EDIBLE  WEEDS 

Many  of  the  so-called  weeds  add  variety  and  taste  to 
the  diet  and  as  ballast  and  mineral  foods  induce  a  higher 
degree  of  health.  As  these  weeds  are  all  great  pests,  it 
is  needless  to  say  that  the  more  they  are  cut  the  less  they 
propagate,  so  by  their  use  not  only  is  a  food  procured 
without  price,  save  the  labor  of  gathering,  but  at  the 
same  time  a  step  forward  in  eradicating  a  pest  is  made. 

Dock  Root 

The  leaves  of  dock  root  are  efficacious  in  the  diet  as 
greens  and  the  tonic  properties  which  the  plant  contains 
are  of  value  in  the  great  art  of  keeping  well. 

Milkweed 

Milkweed  is  one  of  the  most  delicious  greens  and  may 
be  used  from  the  last  of  May  on  through  the  season. 
The  plant  may  be  recognized  as  a  single  stalk  with  oval- 
pointed  leaves.  Usually  it  branches  into  two  or  three 
stalks  at  the  top.  It  can  always  be  identified  by  the 
white,  milky  juice  found  in  the  stems.  Milkweed  should 
be  eaten  either  when  young  (about  six  inches  tall)  or 
when  the  branches  come.  In  the  latter  case  only  the 
branches  are  used,  as  the  stalk  grows  bitter  with  age. 
When  the  young  stalks  are  gathered,  they  may  be  bunched 
and  boiled  as  asparagus  and  served  on  toast  with  either 
a  butter  or  cream  sauce.  In  case  the  branches  are  used 
it  is  more  satisfactory  to  prepare  them  as  greens,  wash- 
ing thoroughly,  then  boiling  geptly  in  a  small  amount 
of  salted  water  for  thirty  minutes ;  then  they  are  drained, 
chopped  and  seasoned  with  pepper  and  butter.  Oc- 
casionally the  greens  may  be  heated  up  in  cream  sauce  or 
scalloped  with  entire  wheat  bread  crumbs,  cream  sauce 
and  a  little  hard-cooked  egg.  This  is  a  delicious  supper 
dish. 

447    - 


448  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Purslane 

Purslane  or  "  pusley "  in  old  days  was  commonly 
used  as  a  salad  or  pot  herb,  great  medicinal  virtue  being 
ascribed  to  it.  One  ancient  writer  said,  "  Purslane  dotii 
mitigate  the  great  in  al  the  inward  partes  of  the  bodie, 
sembably  of  the  head  and  eyes."  While  we  cannot  credit 
it  with  such  specific  powers,  it  is  certain  that  along  with 
the  great  group  of  greens  it  possesses  purifying  qualities 
beneficial  to  the  body.  Purslane  appears  about  the  mid- 
dle of  May,  growing  most  prolifically  in  gardens,  veg- 
etable patches  and  corn  fields.  It  is  a  prostrate,  or  trail- 
ing, plant,  one  root  growing  many  stems,  branching  out 
and  covering  a  circular  surface.  The  stems  are  fleshy 
and  red  while  the  leaves  are  about  the  size  of  the  thumb- 
nail and  almost  round.  As  purslane  has  little  flavor  it 
tastes  rather  flat  when  cooked  as  greens,  unless  accom- 
panied by  a  piece  of  ham,  bacon  or  salt  pork.  As  it  is 
very  succulent  it  makes  a  good  salad,  if  it  is  dressed 
raw  with  oil,  vinegar  and  a  high  seasoning  of  salt  and 
pepper.  It  may  be  combined  with  sliced  radishes  or 
shredded  green  peppers  to  good  advantage,  or  strewn 
with  minced  mint,  when  roast  lamb  or  cold  ham  is  to  be 
served.  It  is  also  frequently  used  as  a  garnish. 

Narrow  Dock 

Narrow  dock,  "  curled  dock,"  or  "  sour  dock,"  for  it  is 
known  by  various  names,  is  a  particularly  persistent  and 
plentiful  weed,  ready  to  use  from  June  throughout  the 
season.  It  may  be  recognized  easily.  The  stem  is  erect, 
angular  and  furrowed,  growing  from  eighteen  inches  to 
two  and  a.  half  feet  tall  and  branching  from  the  bottom 
up.  The  leaves  are  lanced-shaped  and  pointed,  with  the 
margins  strongly  shirred.  The  flowers  are  drooping 
green,  inconspicuous  clusters  growing  in  circles  about  the 
stem.  The  leaves  only  are  used,  and  are  always  cooked 
as  greens  and  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  As  the 
name  "  sour  dock  "  suggests,  the  flavor  is  distinctly  sour 
and  for  this  reason  it  should  be  served  with  a  suitable 
meat,  as  beef  tongue,  ham  or  corned  beef,  with  which  the 
flavor  will  harmonize.  Occasionally  the  chopped  cooked 
greens  are  moulded  in  cups  in  individual  portions,  and 
served  on  lettuce  as  a  salad,  accompanied  by  boiled  dress- 


THE  EDIBLE  WEEDS  449 

ing  to  which  has  been  added  a  generous  quantity  of 
chopped,  cooked  ham.  In  this  case  it  is  sufficiently  sub- 
stantial to  serve  as  a  main  dish  at  luncheon  or  supper. 


Sorrel 

Sorrel  was  always  cultivated  in  old-time  gardens,  but 
it  is  now  seldom  found  except  in  the  wild  state,  in  stubby 
or  stony  fields  and  along  fence  rows.  Sorrel  may  be 
used  as  a  salad  plant,  either  alone,  dressed  simply  with 
oil  and  vinegar,  or  in  combination.  Potato  or  egg  salad 
or  shredded  cabbage  combined  with  green  peppers  are 
delicious  with  it,  while  any  kind  of  fish  salad  is  improved 
by  the  addition  of  a  small  quantity.  It  is  also  used  in 
soups,  "  cream  of  sorrel "  being  a  favorite  in  France. 
To  make  this  soup,  cook  a  cupful  of  chopped  sorrel  in 
a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  add  a  little  sugar,  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  of  vinegar,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  uncoated  rice,  then  a  pint  of  boiling  water. 
Let  simmer  until  the  rice  is  soft.  Add  three  cupfuls  of 
veal  or  chicken  stock  and  strain.  Beat  an  egg  yolk 
slightly;  add  a  cupful  of  light  cream  and  turn  into  the 
soup,  stir  until  it  becomes  hot,  strain  and  serve. 

A  combination  of  dandelion  and  sorrel  as  greens  is  de- 
licious, the  flavors  supplementing  each  other  especially 
well. 

Plantain 

Plantain  is  a  familiar  dooryard  weed  which  grows  in 
nearly  all  localities.  This  weed  may  be  used  either  as  a 
salad  or  a  green.  If  it  is  to  figure  in  a  salad,  only  the 
young  leaves  should  be  used,  and,  as  the  plant  is  rather 
lacking  in  flavor,  a  dash  of  curry  powder  and  Wor- 
cestershire sauce  may  be  added  to  good  advantage  with 
French  dressing.  An  excellent  combination  consists  of 
one-half  as  much  shredded  plantain  as  celery,  with  a  dash 
of  minced  green  pepper,  put  together  with  a  French 
dressing.  As  a  green  it  may  be  used  either  plain,  with 
salt  pork  or  ham,  or  in  combination  with  dandelion  and 
horseradish,  equal  parts  being  used  of  the  plantain  and 
dandelion  and  one-third  of  horseradish.  Plantain  may 
be  obtained  throughout  the  season. 


450  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Pigweed 

Pigweed  was  formerly  cultivated  in  gardens,  like  spin- 
ach, but  it  is  now  found  wild  in  corn  fields,  vegetable 
patches,  barnyards  and  almost  everywhere.  The  leaves 
should  be  gathered  young  and  cooked  like  any  green. 

Dandelions 

Whereas  dandelions  are  now  generally  used,  they  are 
usually  so  unattractively  prepared  that  few  people  really 
like  them.  When  cooked  as  greens,  they  should  be  first 
scalded.,  then  cooked,  like  other  greens,  slowly  in  their 
own  juices,  then  chopped  fine  and  seasoned  well  with 
salt,  pepper  and  butter.  If  dandelions  are  to  be  served 
as  a  salad,  only  the  most  tender  plants  should  be  used. 

The  tiny  young  leaves  of  dandelion  may  be  used  as 
a  green  with  any  vegetable  salad  —  a  simple  dressing  of 
oil,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper  being  sufficient.  Boiled 
finnan  haddie  with  a  lemon  sauce  is  delicious  served  on  a 
bed  of  dandelion  greens,  while  any  left-over  greens  may 
be  moulded  and  served  cold  with  mayonnaise  or  boiled 
salad  dressing.  Dandelions  are  also  delicious  in  com- 
bination with  an  equal  quantity  of  spinach. 

Cowslip 

Cowslip,  or  marsh  marigold,  is  one  of  the  first  greens 
to  appear  and  is  in  season  from  the  last  of  March  through 
April.  It  is  always  found  in  moist  places  and  can  be 
identified  by  its  smooth,  dark  green  leaves,  about  two 
inches  in  diameter,  almost  round,  save  for  a  deep  notch 
where  they  are  joined  to  the  stem,  and  by  its  brilliant  yel- 
low flowers,  in  shape  much  like  a  buttercup. 

Cowslips  'are  always  used  as  greens,  and  a  dash  of 
nutmeg  should  be  added  with  the  other  seasonings.  The 
dish  will  be  greatly  improved  if  it  is  bestrewn  with  a 
little  hard-cooked  egg  at  serving  time.  It  may  be  made 
into  a  soup,  like  a  cream  of  sorrel,  a  cupful  of  cooked 
and  sifted  cowslip  pulp  being  substituted  for  the  sorrel, 
and  a  slice  of  onion  and  a  bit  of  bay  leaf  being  added 
"for  the  seasoning.  Cooked  and  moulded  the  cowslip 
makes  a  delicious  salad,  which  should  be  served  with 
boiled  dressing  and  small  balls  of  cottage  cheese  dusted 
with  paprika. 


THE  EDIBLE  WEEDS  451 

Brake  Fern 

Those  whose  hearts  are  steeled  against  Nature  do  not 
hesitate  to  cut  the  curly  white  fronds  of  the  brake  fern 
and  cook  them  as  greens.  The  best  way  to  do  this  is  by 
steaming,  as  then  the  shape  is  not  spoiled,  the  fronds 
being  attractive  in  appearance  when  cooked  and  suitable 
to  serve  on  toast  with  a  butter  or  cream  sauce. 

Mustard 

Either  white  or  black  mustard  is  a  weed  that  can  be 
used  to  advantage  in  the  diet.  It  is  well  known  as  a 
plant  growing  along  roadsides  and  in  any  cultivated 
ground,  being  particularly  troublesome  in  grain  fields  and 
pastures.  Like  all  plants  mustard  is  at  its  best  when 
young.  The  leaves  may 'be  used  in  combination  with 
other  greens  which  have  a  bland  flavor,  like  purslane  or 
pigweed,  as  the  sharp  flavor  of  the  mustard  gives  them 
zest.  When  very  young  and  crisp,  mustard  forms  a  good 
salad  green  and  may  be  dressed  either  plain  or  in  com- 
bination with  cabbage,  tomatoes,  string  beans  or  peas. 
A  bacon,  fish  or  cheese  sandwich  is  greatly  improved  by 
a  few  mustard  leaves  dipped  in  French  dressing.  It  is 
also  a  good  salad  accompaniment  to  cheese  dishes  or  other 
foods  difficult  of  digestion,  as  the  sharp  flavor  stimulates 
the  digestive  organs.  As  mustard  is  bulky  it  is  an 
excellent  laxative. 

Nettles 

The  nettle  is  another  edible  plant  formerly  much  used, 
but  now  little  known.  The  tender  shoots,  plucked  be- 
fore the  plant  begins  to  flower,  may  be  cooked  as  greens 
or  made  into  an  old-fashioned  dish  known  as  "  nettle 
porridge  " —  a  type  of  creamed  green  worth  trying.  If 
gloves  are  worn  while  picking,  no  ill  effects  from  the 
nettles  will  be  felt. 

Mint 

Mint  is  a  weed  of  possibilities,  although  it  is  now  little 
known  save  in  a  sauce.  A  handful  of  mint  tops  added  to 
green  peas  when  cooking  gives  a  delicious  flavor,  while 
a  touch  of  it  is  indispensible  to  dried  pea  or  bean  puree. 
Finely  minced,  the  leaves  may  be  added  to  orange  fruit 
cup  and  banana  salad,  while  a  mint  sherbet  or  quick 
mint  jelly  is  delicious.  In  combination  with  cabbage, 


452  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

cucumbers  or  tomatoes  it  makes  a  delectable  salad,  while 
a  sprig  added  to  iced  tea  or  lemonade  is  refreshing. 

Wintergreen 

Wintergreen  is  a  plant  that  is  slowly  coming  into 
favor  among  country  folk  as  a  distinct  flavoring  agent. 
In  the  spring  the  tiny  reddish  leaves  or  "  pippins  "  are 
a  delicious  addition  to  any  fruit  salad  dressed  with  a 
French  fruit  dressing.  Suitable  combinations  with  win- 
tergreen  are  bananas,  pineapple  and  orange,  or  apple, 
nut  and  celery.  It  may  be  added  to  dressed  cabbage,  or 
used  instead  of  mint  in  mint  sauce.  Wintergreen  jelly 
is  somewhat  of  a  novelty  and  may  be  made  by  adding 
one  cupful  of  chopped  wintergreen  leaves  to  a  cupful 
and  a  half  of  water  which  centains  a  tablespoonful  of 
vinegar,  two  of  lemon  juice,  one-half  tablespoonful  of 
sugar,  a  dash  of  nutmeg,  and  a  scant  tablespoonful  of 
granulated  gelatine  dissolved  over  steam  in  a  little  water. 
This  should  be  moulded  and  served  as  a  garnish  to  cold 
ham  or  lamb,  sprays  of  wintergreen  being  used  to  gar- 
nish the  dish. 

Checkerberries 

Checkerberries  may  be  used  instead  of  pippins  in  any 
fruit  salad,  while  they  are  delicious  when  cooked  in  sugar 
syrup  and  candied  like  orange  peel. 


CHAPTER  XVII 
SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM 

ALL    MEASUREMENTS   ARE   LEVEL 

Of  all  the  summer  foods  salads  are  perhaps  the  least 
understood.  To  many  the  word  signifies  only  green, 
straggling,  frequently  bitter  lettuce,  served  with  a  sweet- 
sour  apology  for  something  called  a  dressing.  Again,  it 
means  the  beloved  of  the  delicatessen  store  and  the  church 
supper  —  the  onion-filled,  vinegar-soused,  mushy  mix- 
ture known  as  potato  salad,  or  it  conjures  up  a  palate-pic- 
ture of  a  varied  number  of  fruits  besprinkled  with  marsh- 
mallows,  swathed  in  mayonnaise,  and  finished  off  with 
nuts.  Alas,  for  the  mistreated  salad !  Correctly  made 
it  is  a  healthful,  nourishing  and  appetizing  adjunct  to 
the  daily  meals;  improperly  prepared,  it  had  better  be 
omitted  from  any  menu. 

Of  course,  the  palate  soon  tires  of  a  daily  diet  of  any 
one  salad  plant,  but  when  there  are  so  many  from  which 
to  make  selection,  all  at  about  the  same  price,  there  is  no 
excuse  for  monotony.  Of  the  many  plants  comparatively 
little  known,  watercress,  chicory,  romaine,  endive,  corn 
salad  and  young  dandelions  offer  a  wide  choice  which 
may  be  supplemented  by  the  more  common  lettuce,  cel- 
ery and  cabbage.  Then  there  are  the  wild  salad  plants 
as  purslane,  or  "  pusley,"  sorrel,  young  mustard,  mint, 
or  plantain  described  in  the  chapter  on  edible  weeds. 

How  to  Prepare  and  Crisp  Salad  Greens 

No  matter  what  type  of  salad  is  to  be  made,  whether 
the  plant  itself  is  to  form  the  base,  or  whether  it  is  to  be 
used  merely  as  a  garnish  to  the  other  ingredients,  the 
salad  plant  must  be  crisp  and  thoroughly  clean.  Too 
much  stress  cannot  be  laid  on  the  necessity  of  the  latter, 
for  the  salad  plant  is  not  cooked,  and  every  bit  of  dirt 

453 


454  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

must  be  washed  off,  as  it  is  a  splendid  harborage   for 
disease  germs. 

The  leaves  should  be  entirely  separated  from  the  roots, 
washed  in  plenty  of  cold  water,  and  then  rinsed.  The 
outside  leaves  should  be  separated  from  those  that  are 
more  desirable,  and  should  be  shredded  as  a  salad  green, 
or  used  in  soup,  for  they  are  too  rich  in  minerals  to  be 
consigned  to  the  garbage  can.  If  ice  is  at  hand,  the 
washed  and  drained  leaves  should  be  put  into  cheesecloth 
bags,  so  that  they  will  not  fall  out  and  clog  the  refriger- 
ator drain,  and  be  placed  next  to  the  ice.  Or,  if  there  is 
plenty  of  room,  they  may  be  crisped  in  one  of  the  wire 
salad  baskets  so  much  used  in  Italy  and  recently  intro- 
duced here.  If  no  ice  is  at  hand,  wrap  the  salad  loosely 
in  paraffine  paper,  place  it  in  a  tightly-covered  utensil, 
and  set  it  in  the  coolest  possible  place.  If  the  weather  is 
not  too  warm,  the  green  will  keep  for  two  days. 

Preparing  Salad  Ingredients 

The  preparation  of  the  various  salad  ingredients  de- 
mands a  little  time,  but  the  result  is  well  worth  the  effort. 
A  tomato  salad,  served  skin  and  all,  for  instance,  may  be 
quickly  prepared,  but  the  skin  is  indigestible,  and  its  re- 
moval will  not  only  make  the  salad  more  appetizing,  but 
will  lift  it  above  the  restaurant  level.  A  good  way  to 
remove  tomato  skins  is  to  bruise  the  fruit  with  the  blunt 
edge  of  a  knife,  when  the  tomato  may  be  easily  peeled. 
By  this  method  none  of  the  flavor  is  lost.  A  quicker 
method  is  to  use  boiling  water;  if  properly  done,  the 
flavor  is  not  greatly  affected.  Put  the  tomatoes  into  a 
wire  basket,  plunge  them  into  boiling  water  and  let  stand 
one  minute,  and  then  immerse  in  cold  water.  Cabbage 
should  be  shredded  fine  for  salad,  rather  than  chopped. 
It  is  not  necessary  to  use  a  special  shredder  for  the  pur- 
pose, a  very  sharp  long  knife  serving  to  shave  the  cab- 
bage into  tiny  shreds.  These  should  be  crisped  in  ice 
water,  if  possible..  There  is  no  foundation  for  the  old- 
time  idea  that  cucumbers  should  always  be  allowed  to 
stand  for  some  time  in  cold,  salted  water  before  using. 
They  should  be  crisped  in  plain  ice  water,  but,  if  they  are 
hard  to  digest,  they  may  be  placed  in  a  cheesecloth  bag 
and  the  juice  squeezed  out.  They  will  not  be  crisp, 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM       455 

treated  in  this  way,  but  are  usually  more  digestible.  Cel- 
ery for  salad  should  be  cut  into  small  dice ;  if  properly 
prepared,  even  the  outer  stalks  may  be  used.  The 
grooves  should  be  washed  with  a  brush,  the  strings  re- 
moved by  slipping  a  knife  under  them  at  the  root-end, 
and  pulling  toward  the  top  of  the  stalks;  scraping  is  not 
a  good  method.  Two  or  three  stalks  should  then  be  put 
together.  They  should  be  held  on  a  board,  and  the 
stalks  be  shredded  lengthwise,  then  cut  crosswise  into 
small  uniform  pieces. 

Fish,  chicken  and  other  meats  should  be  cut  in  pieces 
about  the  size  of  a  large  pea;  if  they  are  too  large,  the 
dressing  does  not  penetrate  them;  if  too  small,  or  if  the 
meat  has  been  put  through  the  food-chopper,  the  result 
is  a  pasty  mixture,  suitable  only  for  sandwich  fillings. 

When  introducing  eggs  into  a  mixed  salad,  slice  them, 
or  separate  the  whites  from  the  yolks,  chop  the  whites, 
coarsely,  and  mix  them  with  the  salad ;  rub  the  hard- 
cooked  yolk  through  a  coarse  sieve  or  potato  ricer,  and 
sprinkle  thickly  over  the  top  as  a  garnish.  In  making 
potato  salad  it  is  always  better  to  cut  the  potatoes  small 
and  combine  them,  while  still  warm,  with  the  onion  juice, 
vinegar  and  oil ;  the  other  ingredients  may  be  added  later. 
Parsley,  mint,  chervil  and  other  herbs  should  be  very 
finely  minced  after  being  thoroughly  washed  and  then 
dried. 

Dressing  a  Salad  at  the  Table 

The  best  way  to  prepare  a  green  salad,  whether  it  be 
plain,"  with  herbs,  with  a  combination  of  tart  fruits,  or 
with  other  fresh  vegetables,  is  to  dress  the  salad  at  the 
table.  In  this  case  the  salad  bowl  should  be  roomy. 
The  high  bowl  on  a  standard  is  quite  the  newest  shape. 
In  general  the  bowl  should  be  lined  with  salad  greens,  the 
other  ingredients,  if  they  are  used,  being  arranged  at- 
tractively among  the  leaves.  The  oil  and  vinegar  should 
be  in  cruets  and  together  with  the  salt,  pepper,  paprika, 
any  other  desired  condiments,  and  the  salad  fork 
and  spoon  should  be  set  upon  a  small  tray.  To 
dress  the  salad,  measure  out  a  half  tablespoonful 
of  oil  for  each  person  to  be  served.  Pour  it  over 
the  salad,  add  the  salt,  pepper  and  other  condiments, 
if  they  are  to  be  used,  and  toss  the  salad  with  the 


456  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

fork  and  spoon  until  the  leaves  begin  to  look  a  little 
wilted,  then  add  one-third  as  much  vinegar  as  oil  for 
each  person,  and  mix  until  it  is  absorbed.  This  does  not 
take  long,  if  done  vigorously. 

The  salad  can  be  greatly  varied  by  using  various  kinds 
of  vinegar.  Italian  vinegar  gives  an  especially  smooth, 
pungent  dressing,  while  any  of  the  herb  vinegars,  such  as 
tarragon,  nasturtium,  celery,  mint  and  so  on  (any  of 
which  may  be  easily  made  at  home)  relieve  any  mo- 
notony. 

When  to  Use  French  Dressing 

The  question  has  frequently  been  asked  why  it  is  pref- 
erable to  dress  the  salad  at  the  table,  rather  than  to  use  a 
French  dressing,  which  is  poured  over  the  salad.  The 
first  method  is  preferable  for  delicate  greens,  because 
they  then  absorb  the  dressing,  but  the  regulation  French 
dressing  should  be  used  in  marinating  (combining)  vari- 
ous salad  ingredients,  as  chicken,  veal,  potatoes  and  the 
like,  which  will  readily  absorb  it  without  becoming 
wilted.  The  proportions  of  oil  and  vinegar  for  French 
dressing  remain  the  same  as  when  the  salad  is  dressed  at 
the  table. 

The  Selection  of  Salad  Oil 

The  question  of  oil  for  salad  making  is  becoming  more 
of  a  problem,  as  large  numbers  are  beginning  to  appre- 
ciate the  dietetic  and  gastronomic  value  of  the  salad 
dressed  with  oil.  The  best  uncooked  dressings  are  made 
of  genuine  olive  oil,  which  is  unsurpassed  in  flavor  as 
well  as  digestibility.  However,  this  is  expensive ;'  good 
substitutes  are  peanut-,  cottonseed-,  and  corn-oil.  In 
using  any  of  these  olive-oil  substitutes,  a  little  more  acid 
and  slightly  higher  seasonings  should  be  introduced.  A 
mixture  of  one-third  highly-flavored  Italian  olive  oil  and 
two-thirds  of  any  one  of  the  cheaper  oils  will  give  an 
olive  oil  flavor  at  a  lower  cost.  This  method  is  used  by 
some  of  the  best  hotels. 

The  Choice  of  Salad  Dressings 

The  character  of  the  salad  dressing  should  be  dic- 
tated by  the  place  of  the  salad  in  the  meal.  All  light 
vegetable  salads,  those  occasionally  containing  a  little 
tart  fruit,  and  those  which  are  to  constitute  a  separate 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM      457 

course  at  a  dinner,  should  be  served  with  French  dress- 
ing, or  one  of  its  derivatives.  The  same  dressing  may 
be  used  on  luncheon  or  supper  salads,  if  desired,  but 
when  they  are  to  serve  as  the  main  course  of  the  meal,  it 
is  customary  to  us«  a  mayonnaise,  boiled  or  cream  dress- 
ing. The  best  rule  to  follow  in  deciding  on  the  dressing 
is  to  keep  in  mind  the  actual  salad  ingredients.  If  they 
are  fat  and  very  rich,  a  boiled  dressing  should  be  selected 
rather  than  a  mayonnaise,  which  contains  a  large  quan- 
tity of  fat.  If  they  are  deficient  in  fat,  a  mayonnaise 
dressing  combines  well  both  dietetically  and  gastro- 
nomically.  For  a  fruit  salad  the  dressing  may  consist 
of  mayonnaise,  either  plain  or  combined  with  a  little 
whipped  cream,  preferably  sour,  or  it  may  be  of  a  dis- 
tinctly sweet  type  as  honey  salad  dressing. 

If  a  sweet  dressing  is  used,  however,  the  fruit  salad 
must  act  as  dessert,  rather  than  a  separate  course.  In 
most  cases  it  is  preferable  partially  to  combine  the  salad 
with  a  small  quantity  of  French  dressing,  rather  than  a 
large  quantity  of  heavier  dressing. 

To  sum  up  the  requirements  for  making  a  "  real " 
salad:  All  the  ingredients  must  be  cold,  the  greens 
should  be  crisp  and  dry,  the  salad  should  be  moist,  but 
not  "  soupy,"  and,  if  a  substantial  salad  is  made,  it 
should  be  allowed  to  stand  for  some  time  with  the  dress- 
ing mixed  through  it.  The  salad  plates  should  be  cold, 
and  the  salad  itself  should  be  attractively  arranged  and 
garnished,  for  "  the  eye  does  half  the  eating." 

FRENCH  AND  MAYONNAISE  DRESSINGS 
French  Dressing 

3  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  Few  grains  paprika 

i  tablespoonful  vinegar  Few  grains  pepper 

i  teaspoonful  salt 

Beat  thoroughly  until  emulsified. 

French  Dressing  in  Quantity 

I  cupful  olive  oil  ij  teaspoonfuls  salt 

i  cupful  vinegar  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Mix  together  in  a  screw-top  glass  jar  and  shake  until 


458  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

thoroughly  emulsified  each  time  before  using.     It  may 
be  kept  indefinitely. 

French  Fruit  Salad  Dressing 

3  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  4  teaspoonful  salt 

i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice  I  tablespoonful  powdered 

sugar 

Combine  and  beat  till  emulsified. 

California  French  Dressing 

2!  tablespoonfuls   granulated          2  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 
sugar  3  tablespoonfuls  vinegar 

Few    grains    cayenne   pepper          £  teaspoonful  salt 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients  together.  Add  the  oil  grad- 
ually, blend  thoroughly  and  beat  in  the  vinegar,  slowly. 
Let  stand  with  the  heart  of  an  onion  till  slightly  flavored. 
This  may  be  omitted  if  desired. 

English  Salad  Dressing 

i  teaspoonful  salt  I  teaspoonful  Worcester- 

4  teaspoonful  pepper  shire  sauce 

1  teaspoonful  celery  seed  2  tablespoonfuls  vinegar 
Few  drops  onion  juice                     4  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 

Mix  together  the  salt,  pepper,  celery  seed,  onion  juice, 
Worcestershire  and  the  oil.  Let  stand  to  become  sea- 
soned, and  strain.  Then  slowly  beat  into  it  the  vinegar 
until  it  is  emulsified.  Use  at  once  with  any  plain  vege- 
table salad. 

French  Pepper  Dressing 

5  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  i  teaspoonful  Worcester- 

2  tablespoonfuls    vinegar  shire 

I  teaspoonful  salt  i  teaspoonful  curry  powder 

Few  grains  cayenne  i  teaspoonful  onion  juice 

2  tablespoonfuls  minced 
green  pepper 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given,  beat  well  and 
serve  at  once  with  plain  green  salad,  string  bean,  cauli- 
flower, beet,  tomato  or  cucumber  salad. 

Italian  Dressing 

i  teaspoonful  salt  I  tablespoonful   tomato  con- 

fi  teaspoonfnls  grated  onion  serve  or  catsup 

4  teaspoonful  white  pepper  i£  tablespoonfuls  vinegar 

4  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM       459 

Mix  the  first  four  ingredients  thoroughly;  add  the 
vinegar  slowly,  then  beat  in  the  oil  a  little  at  a  time. 
Use  at  once. 

Radish  Dressing 

5  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  £  teaspoonful  salt 

I  tablespooriful    lemon    juice          Few  grains  cayenne 
i  tablespoonful  orange  juice          i  cupful  radishes    (sliced) 
i  tablespoonful  tarragon 
vinegar 

Mix  the  ingredients  thoroughly,  except  the  radishes, 
then  add  the  radishes,  and  use  at  once. 

Roquefort  Salad  Dressing 

i  cupful  Roquefort  cheese  2  tablespoonfuls  vinegar 

1  cupful  olive  oil  £  teaspoonful  salt 
Dash  paprika  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Beat  the  cheese  till  creamy,  gradually  working  in  the 
oil,  seasonings  and,  lastly,  the  vinegar.  Use  at  once. 

Whipped  Cream  Dressing 

3  tablespoonfuls  grated  ^  teaspoonful  mustard 

horseradish  -k  teaspoonful   sugar 

2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice  i  teaspoonful  cayenne 

i  tablespoonful  tarragon  i  cupful  sweet  or  sour 

vinegar  cream    (whipped) 

i  teaspoonful  salt 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients,  vinegar  and  lemon  juice  to- 
gether. When  ready  to  serve  add  the  whipped  cream 
slowly,  beating  constantly. 

Cucumber  Salad  Dressing 

Add  one  cupful  of  diced  and  pressed  cucumbers  to 
the  preceding  just  before  serving. 

Cream  Cheese  Salad  Dressing 

\  a  cream  cheese  Few  grains  paprika 

J  teaspoonful  salt  6  sliced  pickled  onions 

I  teaspoonful  pepper  5  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 

2!  tablespoonfuls   spiced, 
pickling  vinegar 

Cream  the  cheese  till  soft,  then  beat  in  the  other  in- 
gredients in  the  order  given.  Use  on  cold  slaw,  toma- 
toes, cucumbers  or  any  plain  green  salad. 


460  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Uncooked  Sour  Cream  Dressing 

I  cupful  thick  sour  cream  Few  grains  white  pepper 

1  teaspoonful  salt  i  teaspoonful  paprika 

2  tablespoonfuls  vinegar 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given,  and  use  with 
cabbage  or  tomato  salad. 

Bar  le  Due  Salad  Dressing 

3  tablespoonfuls  Bar  le  Due          i  tablespoonful    lemon    juice 
Jelly  &  tablespoonful  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 

Beat  well  and  use  at  once. 

Currant  or  Cranberry  Jelly  Salad  Dressing 

2  tablespoonfuls    currant    or          2  tablespoonfuls  olive   oil 
cranberry  jelly  i  teaspoonful  salt 

I  tablespoonful    lemon   juice 

Melt  the  jelly,  add  the  lemon  juice,  oil  and  salt  and 
beat  thoroughly. 

Honey  Salad  Dressing 

1  cupful  olive  oil  2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 

3  tablespoonfuls   honey  Few  grains  salt 

Beat  together  until  frothy ;  use  at  once. 

Quick  Mayonnaise 

2  egg  yolks  i  teaspoonful  mustard 
i  teaspoonful  powdered  i£  cupfuls  olive  oil 

sugar  ii  tablespoonfuls  lemon 

I  teaspoonful  salt  juice 

&  teaspoonful  cayenne  ii  tablespoonfuls  vinegar 

Measure  out  the  oil  into  a  pitcher.  Mix  the  dry  in- 
gredients, add  the  egg  yolks,  beat  till  slightly  thickened 
and  add  the  vinegar  and  lemon  juice,  gradually.  Use  an 
egg-beater  of  the  wheel  type  and  beat  in  the  oil  a  tea- 
spoonful  at  a  time.  When  thick,  the  oil  may  be  added 
much  more,  rapidly,  taking  care  to  beat  the  mixture  thor- 
oughly after  each  addition.  When  done,  a  tablespoon- 
ful of  boiling  water  should  be  beaten  in.  If  stored  in  a 
glass  jar  and  covered  closely  in  a  cool  place,  this  will  keep 
indefinitely.  Any  olive  oil  substitute  may  be  used  in 
making  this  dressing. 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM       461 

Thousand  Island  Salad  Dressing 

i  cupful  mayonnaise  i  tablespoonful    chopped 

5  tablespoonfuls  chili  sauce  chives 
i  chopped  pimento 

Combine  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given. 

Russian  Salad  Dressing 

1  cupful  mayonnaise  i  teaspoonful   chopped 

2  chopped  pimentoes  capers  or  chow  chow 
i  tablespoonful  chopped                  3  teaspoonfuls   tarragon 

chives  vinegar 

6  tablespoonfuls  chili  sauce  £  cupful  whipped  sour  cream 

The  mayonnaise  should  be  very  thick.     Combine  the 
ingredients  in  the  order  given. 


COOKED  SALAD  DRESSINGS 

Cheap  Boiled  Salad  Dressings  (1  quart) 

6  tablespoonfuls  flour  2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

ii  teaspoonfuls    mustard  2  eggs 

1  tablespoonful  salt  2  cupfuls  milk 

2  tablespoonfuls    sugar  ii  cupfuls  weak  vinegar 
i  tablespoonful   onion  juice 

Mix  together  the  flour,  mustard,  salt,  sugar,  onion 
juice,  butter  and  eggs  in  a  double  boiler  top;  add  the  milk 
slowly  so  it  will  not  be  lumpy,  cook  over  hot  water  till 
thick,  stirring  constantly,  then  add  the  vinegar  and  stir 
until  thickened  again.  This  may  be  kept  closely-covered 
in  a  cool  place  for  two  weeks. 

Rich  Salad  Dressing 

£  tablespoonfui    mustard  i  cupful  milk 

i  tablespoonful   salt  i  cupful  mild  vinegar 

i  tablespoonful  sugar  i  tablespoonful  corn  starch 

i  tablespoonful  onion  juice  3  eggs  or  6  egg  yolks 
(optional) 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients  together,  add  the  eggs  and 
onion  juice  and  beat  well.  Stir  in  the  milk,  and  cook 
over  hot  water  till  thick,  then  add  the  vinegar,  slowly, 
beating  thoroughly.  Strain  and  cool. 


462  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Boiled  Oil  Dressing  (A  Mayonnaise  Substitute) 

2  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  I  cupful  olive  oil 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  I  teaspoonful  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

Boiling  water  i  teaspoonful  mustard 

i  egg  yolk,  beaten      .  i  egg  white 

Blend  the  2  tablespoonfuls  of  olive  oil,  the  flour  and 
lemon  juice,  in  a  measuring  cup.  Fill  the  cup  with  boil- 
ing water,  transfer  to  a  double  boiler  and  cook  until 
thickened,  stirring  constantly.  Pour  into  the  egg  yolk, 
beating  constantly,  and  cool.  Then  gradually  beat  in  the 
oil  and  seasonings,  and  lastly  thin  the  mixture  with  the 
egg  white  whipped  stiff. 

Sour  Milk  or  Buttermilk  Salad  Dressing 

1  cupful  sugar  2  eggs,  beaten 

4  cupful  butter  li  cupfuls  sour  milk  or  but- 

.    i  teaspoonful    mustard  termilk 

4  tablespoonfuls   flour  I  cupful   weak  vinegar 

Few  grains  cayenne  2  teaspoonfuls  salt 

Melt  the  butter,  add  the  sugar,  flour  and  seasonings, 
then  the  eggs,  beaten,  and  the  milk.  Stir  over  hot  water 
until  thick,  then  add  the  vinegar,  slowly,  stirring  con- 
stantly till  the  mixture  thickens  again.  Remove  from 
the  heat,  chill  and  serve. 

As  this  keeps  for  two  weeks  in  a  cool  place,  several 
times  the  recipe  may  be  made  and  stored  in  glass  jars. 

Peanut  Butter  Salad  Dressing 

2  tablespoonfuls  peanut  but-          i  tablespoonful    tarragon 
ter  vinegar 

i  tablespoonful  olive  oil  £  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

Dash  of  paprika  i  cupful  any  boiled  dressing 

Beat  thoroughly.     Serve  with  fruit  salad. 

Curry  Dressing 

\  tablespoonful  salt  i  tablespoonful  flour 

1  teaspoonful  mustard  3  egg  yolks 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar  2  tablespoonfuls  melted  but- 
Few  grains  cayenne  ter  or  oil 

6  tablespoonfuls    weak    vin-  i|  cupfuls  milk 

egar  \  teaspoonful  curry  powder 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients,  add  the  egg  yolks,  slightly 
beaten,  the  butter  and  the  milk ;  then  pour  in  the  vinegar 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM       463 

slowly,   and   cook  over  boiling  water  until  the  mixture 
thickens,  stirring  constantly.     Strain  and  cool. 

Sweet  or  Sour  Cream  Dressing 

2  egg  yolks  or  i  egg  i  teaspoonful  mustard 

\  teaspoonful  salt  i  tablespoonful  granulated 

Few  grains  cayenne  sugar 

4  tablespoonfuls   tarragon  2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

vinegar  I  cupful  whipped  cream 

(sweet  or  sour) 

Mix  together  egg  yolks  and  dry  ingredients  in  a 
double  boiler  top.  Add  the  vinegar  and  cook  over  hot 
water  until  thickened,  then  add  the  butter,  bit  by  bit, 
till  all  is  in,  and  cool  the  mixture.  Fold  in  whipped 
cream  just  before  serving.  This  is  suitable  only  for  fruit 
salads. 

Cream  Honey  Salad  Dressing 

4  £§£  yolks  i  teaspoonful  salt 

2  cupful  honey  i  cupful  olive  oil 

Juice  i  lemon  i  teaspoonful  paprika 

i  cupful  slightly  sour  or 
sweet  cream 

Beat  the  yolks  thoroughly,  then  pour  in  the  honey, 
which  should  be  boiling  hot.  Cook  for  a  moment,  beat- 
ing continuously,  then  fold  in  the  oil,  lemon  juice  and  the 
cream,  beaten  stiff.  Use  only  with  fruit  salads. 

VEGETABLE  SALADS 

Vegetable  salads  may  be  made  in  many  combinations, 
—  imagination  only  being  the  limit.  It  is  a  good  plan 
to  put  washed  and  dry  radishes,  white  or  red,  pieces  of 
green  peppers  which  may  have  been  left  over,  or  a 
tomato,  if  there  is  an  extra  one  at  hand,  in  the  salad  fyag 
or  basket,  along  with  lettuce  or  other  salad  greens,  and 
before  it  is  realized  the  ingredients  for  a  delicious  vege- 
table salad  will  be  accumulated.  Specific  recipes  are  un- 
necessary for  simple  salads  of  this  type.  However,  the 
following  suggestions  will  probably  assist  the  imagin- 
ation : 

Lettuce,  cress  and  celery. 

Cress,  tomatoes  and  cucumbers. 

Romaine,  sliced  radishes  and  shredded  cabbage. 


464  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Sliced  tomatoes,  diced  cucumbers  and  lettuce. 

Young  dandelions,  new  onions  and  cooked  beets. 

Lettuce,  tomatoes  and  corn. 

Romaine,  asparagus  tips  and  small,  or  sliced,  radishes. 

Peas,  sliced  shallots,  lettuce  or  cress. 

String  beans,  radishes  and  lettuce. 

Sliced  tomatoes,  diced  cucumbers  and  lettuce. 

Chicory  and  cucumber. 

Escarole,  chives  and  cubes  of  tomato  jelly. 

All  these  may  be  served  with  French  dressing. 

Dressings  Which  May  Be  Served  with  Vegetable  Salads 

For  vegetable  salads,  French  dressing,  California 
French  dressing,  English  salad  dressing,  French  pepper 
dressing,  Italian  and  radish  dressing,  Roquefort  salad 
dressing,  boiled  dressing  and  mayonnaise  are  all  suitable 
for  certain  meals  and  may  be  substituted  for  the  French 
dressing  mentioned  in  the  list  of  vegetable  salad  com- 
binations as  desirable. 

Yellow  Tomato  and  Chestnut  Salad 

12  yellow  tomatoes  I  cupful  sliced  blanched 

I  cupful  diced  celery  chestnuts 

Lettuce  California  French  dressing 

Remove  the  tomato  skins  by  means  of  boiling  water. 
Cut  the  fruit  in  halves  and  let  marinate  in  the  dressing 
for  half  an  hour.  In  the  meantime,  mix  together  the 
chestnuts  and  celery,  add  a  little  of  the  dressing  and  let 
stand  in  a  cold  place  to  become  seasoned.  Arrange  nests 
of  shredded  lettuce  on  individual  plates,  drain  the  toma- 
toes and  arrange  them  on  these  nests  in  shape  of  a  Mal- 
tese cross,  put  a  spoonful  of  the  celery  and  chestnut  mix- 
ture in  the  center  of  the  tomatoes,  and  serve  with  cream 
cheese  sandwiches. 

Tomato  Cheese  Salad 

Select  medium-sized  perfect  tomatoes.  Remove  the 
skins  and  chill.  When  ready  to  serve,  cut  each  tomato 
to  represent  a  flower,  marinate  fifteen  minutes  in  French 
dressing,  arrange  on  lettuce  leaves  or  cress,  dispose  tiny 
balls  of  cream  cheese  in  the  center  of  each  tomato  and 
pass  mayonnaise  or  boiled  dressing. 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM       465 

• 

Milady's  Salad 

6  slices  tomato  Mayonnaise 

t  cupful  diced  canned  pine-  Powdered  parsley 

apple  Lettuce 
f  cupful  diced  celery 

Arrange  the  salads  individually  as  follows,  put  a  slice 
of  tomato  on  a  nest  of  lettuce  leaves,  combine  the  pine- 
apple and  celery  with  a  little  mayonnaise ;  put  a  spoonful 
of  this  mixture  on  each  slice  of  tomato.  Top  with  extra 
mayonnaise,  sprinkle  with  the  parsley,  and  serve  very 
cold. 

Tomato  and  Sardine  Salad 

Allow  a  tomato  for  each  person ;  hollow  them  out  and 
scallop  the  edges  with  a  knife.  Fill  with  a  dressing 
made  of  equal  parts  of  celery,  green  pepper  and  tart  ap- 
ples put  together  with  mayonnaise.  Arrange  indi- 
vidually in  nests  of  shredded  lettuce,  pour  over  a  table- 
spoonful  of  French  dressing  to  each  serving  and  stand 
three  sardines  tent-fashion  around  each  tomato. 

Tomato  Cream  Salad 

Allow  a  tomato  to  each  person,  hollow  out  and  let 
stand  in  French  dressing  for  half  an  hour  in  a  cold  place. 
Then  fill  with  cucumber  salad  dressing,  arrange  on  let- 
tuce and  stick  tiny  straws  of  cucumber  into  the  cream. 

Stuffed  Tomato  Salad 

6  medium-sized  firm   toma-  I  cupful  minced  chicken 

toes  Mayonnaise 

2  cupful  minced   lettuce  Lettuce 

stalks 

Peel  the  tomatoes.  Remove  a  thin  slice  from  the  top 
of  each,  scoop  out  the  centers,  dust  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  invert  the  tomatoes  in  a  cool  place  to  drain.  Fill 
these  "  cups  "  with  a  salad  made  of  the  chicken  and  let- 
tuce stalks,  moistened  with  mayonnaise,  and  arrange  on 
plates  for  individual  service.  Garnish  each  with  a  spoon- 
ful of  mayonnaise  and  a  spring  of  parsley. 

Spanish  Tomato  Salad 

5  tomatoes  Lettuce 

i  Bermuda  onion  California    French   dressing 

i  green  pepper 


466  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

• 

Peel  and  chill  the  tomatoes.  Slice  the  onion  very  thin 
crosswise,  and  shred  the  green  pepper,  after  removing  the 
seeds  and  core,  and  boil  it  two  minutes.  Drain  and  chill. 
Dress  the  crisped  lettuce,  arrange  in  a  salad  bowl ;  slice 
and  dress  the  tomatoes,  place  upon  the  lettuce,  and  garnish 
with  the  onion  and  pepper. 

Shamrock  Salad 

2  large  green  peppers  2  tablespoonfuls  stuffed 

i  large  cream  cheese  olives 

i  cupful  chopped  walnut  2"  tablespoonfuls  cream 

meats  Salt  and  pepper 

French  or  mayonnaise  dress-  Lettuce 

ing 

Remove  the  stem  ends  from  the  peppers  and  scrape 
out  the  seeds  and  cores.  Let  the  peppers  stand  in  cold, 
salted  water  for  two  hours,  then  drain  and  pack  full  of 
the  cheese,  nuts  and  olives  creamed  together  and  sea- 
soned to  taste,  and  moistened  with  the  cream.  Let  stand 
to  become  very  firm,  then  slice  across  in  one-quarter  inch 
pieces;  pour  over  a  little  French  dressing  and  serve  two 
slices  to  each  person  on  a  nest  of  lettuce  hearts.  Gar- 
nish with  radish  roses,  if  convenient,  and  pass  mayon- 
naise if  desired. 

Spinach  Salad 

Cook  the  spinach  as  usual,  season  well  with  salt,  pep- 
per, butter  and  a  dash  of  nutmeg,  and  pack  into  cold, 
wet  individual  moulds.  Chill,  turn  out  on  white  lettuce 
leaves,  and  serve  with  a  garnish  of  hard-cooked  eggs  and 
mayonnaise  or  boiled  dressing. 

Spring  Salad 

I  cupful  sliced  scullions  5  tablespoonfuls    French 

i|  cupfuls  sliced,  cooked  new  dressing 

beets  i  bunch  watercress 

Dredge  the  scullions  with  salt  and  pepper  and  pour 
over  2  tablespoonfuls  vinegar  and  add  £  tablespoonful  of 
sugar.  Let  stand  one  hour  in  a  cold  place.  Combine  the 
beets  with  the  French  dressing,  and  add  the  scullions, 
drained.  Let  stand  fifteen  minutes ;  drain,  toss  the  cress 
in  this  dressing  and  dispose  the  salad  upon  it. 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM       467 

Oyster-Plant  or  Salsify  Salad 

I  bunch  salsify  or  oyster  i  cupful  olive  oil 

plant  2  tablespoonfuls  vinegar 

i  cupful  diced  celery  i  tablespoonful  onion  juice 

6  sliced   stuffed  olives  Few  grains  paprika 

i  teaspoonful  salt  Any  salad  green 

Scrub  the  oyster  plant,  and  steam  or  boil  it.  Rub  off 
the  skin  and  cut  the  roots  into  inch  lengths.  Prepare  a 
French  dressing  of  the  salt,  oil,  vinegar,  onion  juice  and. 
paprika.  Marinate  the  oyster-plant  and  celery  separately 
in  it  for  twenty  minutes ;  then  combine,  garnish  with  any 
salad  green  and  bestrew  with  the  olives. 

Cow  Pea  or  Soy  Bean  Salad 

2.\  cupfuls    plain-cooked    or  French  dressing 

cow  peas,  or  soy  beans  Watercress  or  romaine 

1  cupful   diced   celery,   or  Sliced  tomato    (optional) 
shredded  cabbage 

Mix  the  legume  and  celery  with  the  French  dressing. 
Arrange  on  a  bed.  of  green  and  garnish  with  the  sliced 
tomato. 

Romaine,  Celery  and  Pimento  Salad 

2\  cupfuls  shredded  celery  Romaine 

2  pimentoes  French  dressing 

Shred  the  celery  into  match-shaped  pieces,  and  let 
stand  in  cold,  salted  water  for  an  hour  to  crisp.  Drain 
thoroughly  and  add  the  pimentoes  cut  into  small  shreds. 
Mix  thoroughly  with  the  dressing,  and  serve  on  romaine. 

Ribboned  or  Shredded  Lettuce 

Wash  and  drain  lettuce  leaves.  Arrange  as  many  as 
the  hand  will  hold,  one  piled  upon  the  other,  and  grasp 
them  firmly  in  the  left  hand.  With  a  long,  sharp  knife 
cut  them  across  into  shreds  or  ribbons  one-quarter  inch 
wide.  Set  aside  on  the  ice,  or  in  a  tightly-closed  pail  to 
re-crisp. 

Radish  and  New  Onion  Salad 

3  Bermuda  onions  I  head  lettuce 

2  bunches  radishes  French  dressing 

Wash  and  crisp  the  lettuce ;  peel  the  onions ;  and  slice 
half  the  radishes  very  thin.  Marinate  them  separately 


468  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

in  French  dressing  for  thirty  minutes.  Then  arrange  the 
lettuce  in  a  salad  bowl,  pour  over  the  rest  of  the  dress- 
ing and  mix  well  with  the  radishes  and  onions.  Garnish 
with  radish  roses  made  from  the  remaining  radishes. 

Red  Cabbage  and  Celery  Salad 

3  cupfuls  shredded  red  cab-          2  cupfuls  diced  celery 
bage  Curry  or  French  dressing 

1  tablespoonful  chopped 
chives  or  Bermuda  onion 

Let  the  cabbage  and  celery  crisp  separately  in  cold, 
salted  water.  Drain  thoroughly,  mix  and  toss  with  the 
dressing,  garnish  with  celery  tips  or  lettuce  and  serve 
immediately. 

Plain  Potato  Salad 

3  cupfuls  thinly  sliced  and  ii  teaspoonfuls  salt 

diced  boiled  potatoes  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  hard-cooked  eggs  5  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 
i  onion    (medium   sized)  2  tablespoonfuls  vinegar 

grated  Parsley 

I  cupful   diced   celery    (op- 
tional) 

Chop  the  eggs  and  mix  with  the  potato,  celery,  onion 
and  seasonings.  Then  pour  over  the  oil  and  toss  it  in. 
Add  the  vinegar,  mix  lightly  and  let  stand  to  become  very 
cold.  Serve  garnished  with  parsley. 

Potato  Salad  (New  York) 

2\  cupfuls  small  cooked  po-  2  hard-cooked  eggs 

tato  cubes  Boiled  salad  dressing 

I  cucumber,  pared  and  diced,  Oil  and  vinegar 

or  Lettuce 

i  cupful   diced   celery  Salt  and  cayenne  to  taste 

Dress  the  cucumber  and  potato  separately  with  oil  and 
vinegar,  using  ij  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  to  \  tablespoonful 
of  vinegar.  Let  stand  thirty  minutes.  Drain  them 
thoroughly ;  dust  with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper,  and  toss 
together  with  the  eggs,  chopped,  and  salad  dressing  to 
moisten  thoroughly.  Arrange  on  lettuce  and  garnish  as 
desired  with  olives  or  pimento  strips,  and  extra  dressing. 


TOMATO  CREAM  SALAD 


TOMATO  AND  SARDINE  SALAD 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM       469 

Peanut  and  Potato  Salad 

3  cupfuls  diced  cooked  po-  i  cupful  peanut   meats 

tatoes  Parsley 

3  hard-cooked  eggs  Lettuce 

2  cupfuls  diced  celery  or  French  dressing 

shredded  cabbage  Boiled  dressing 

Marinate  the  potato  and  celery  in  the  French  dressing, 
then  mix  half  the  peanut  meats,  chopped,  with  it,  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley.  Add  a  half  teaspoon- 
ful  of  onion  juice,  if  desired.  Blend  with  the  boiled 
dressing,  arrange  on  lettuce  leaves,  and  garnish  with  the 
parsley,  egg  and  remaining  nut  meats. 


Potato  and  Pimento  Salad 

3  cupfuls   cooked,   diced   po-          I  tablespoonful    minced 
tato  onion 

2  hard-cooked  eggs  Boiled  dressing 

4  tablespoonfuls    minced    pi-          Lettuce,    or 
mentoes  Watercress 

Separate  the  yolks  from  the  whites  of  the  eggs.  Chop 
the  whites,  and  add  to  the  potatoes  with  three  tablespoon- 
fuls of  the  pimentoes  and  the  onion.  Sprinkle  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  moisten  with  the  dressing,  which  should 
be  hot.  Set  away  to  chill.  Serve  on  lettuce,  garnish 
with  extra  dressing,  the  rest  of  the  pimentoes,  and  the 
egg  yolks  rubbed  through  a  sieve. 


Potato,  Egg  and  Radish  Salad 

3  cupfuls   warm,    diced   po-  3  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 

tatoes  i  tablespoonful  vinegar 

3  hard-cooked   eggs  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

I  cupful  thinly-sliced  rad-  Boiled  salad  dressing 

ishes  Lettuce 

Mix  the  oil  and  vinegar  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper 
with  the  potatoes,  and  let  stand  for  at  least  half  an  hour. 
Reserve  one  egg  yolk,  but  chop  the  balance  finely  and  add 
to  the  potato,  with  the  radishes.  Moisten  thoroughly 
with  the  cooked  dressing,  arrange  on  a  bed  of  lettuce 
(shredded),  pour  a  little  extra  dressing  on  the  top  and 
sift  over  the  egg  yolk  as  a  garnish. 


470  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Brown  Rice  Salad 

2  cupfuls  boiled  brown  rice  3  tablespoonfuls   olive  oil 

i  cupful  diced  celery  I  tablespoonful    vinegar 

i  minced  green  pepper  i  teaspoonful  salt 

i  tablespoonful  scraped  £  teaspoonful  pepper 

onion  Tomato  catsup 

Lettuce  or  cress 

Mix  together  the  salad  ingredients  and  arrange  on  the 
lettuce.  Pour  over  a  little  tomato  catsup,  and  garnish 
further  with  parsley,  if  desired. 

Brown  Bice  and  Chicken  Salad 

Observe  the  proportions  of  ingredients  as  given  for 
Brown  Rice  Salad.  Add  a  cupful  of  diced  chicken,  and 
enough  mayonnaise  or  boiled  salad  dressing  to  blend  the 
salad.  Arrange  on  lettuce  and  garnish  with  strips  of 
pimento.  Omit  the  catsup. 

Brown  Rice  and  Nut  Salad 

Observe  the  proportions  as  given  for  Brown  Rice 
Salad,  adding  a  cupful  of  broken  English  Walnut  meats 
just  before  serving,  together  with  mayonnaise  or  boiled 
salad  dressing  to  blend.  Omit  the  catsup. 

Macaroni  Salad 

ii  cupfuls  macaroni,  -broken  Mayonnaise  or  boiled  dress- 

into  pieces  ing 

ij  cupfuls  diced  celery  Lettuce  or  cress 
15  stuffed  olives,  sliced 

Boil  the  macaroni  until  tender,  and  cool  it.  Combine 
with  the  remaining  ingredients,  chill  and  serve  on  a  bed 
of  the  salad  green.  Garnish  with  whole  olives. 

Macaroni  and  Ham  Salad 

Add  three-fourths  cupful  of  minced  ham  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  onion  juice  to  the  preceding  recipe  for 
Macaroni  Salad. 

Macaroni  Vegetarian  Salad 

ll  cupfuls  diced,  cooked  3  hard-cooked   eggs 

macaroni  2  diced    tomatoes    (peeled) 

I  cupful  diced  celery  i  snappy  cheese 

£  cupful  peas  Boiled  dressing 

i  cupful  minced  carrots  Lettuce 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM      471 

Combine  the  macaroni,  the  vegetables  (except  the  to- 
mato), the  cheese  and  two  of  the  eggs,  sliced.  Mix 
lightly  with  boiled  dressing  to  moisten ;  add  the  tomato 
just  before  serving.  Serve  on  a  bed  of  lettuce  with  a 
garnish  of  extra  dressing,  and  the  third  egg  sliced. 

Poinsettia  Salad 

2  cans  of  whole  string  beans          Pimentoes 
i  head   lettuce  French  dressing 

Mayonnaise 

Rinse  the  beans  in  cold  water,  then  moisten  well  with 
the  French  dressing,  and  let  stand  an  hour  in  a  cold  place. 
Shred  the  lettuce  and  make  nests  of  it  upon  individual 
plates;  dispose  a  mound  of  the  beans  upon  it,  and  ar- 
range a  poinsettia  flower  on  the  top  of  each  serving  cut 
from  a  pimento.  Form  the  centers  of  the  flower  with 
mayonnaise. 

Los  Angeles  Salad 

Cut  the  celery  in  thin  inch  strips,  and  simmer  until 
tender  in  salted  water  containing  a  slice  of  onion  and  a 
bay  leaf.  Drain,  chill  and  arrange  on  crisped  cress,  cel- 
ery tips,  or  lettuce.  Dress  with  French  dressing. 
Serve  with  three  tiny  cream  cheese  balls,  dusted  with 
paprika,  disposed  about  the  edge. 

lettuce  Salad,  with  Cheese  and  Pimento  Dressing 

1  head  lettuce  3  tablespoonfuls  minced  pi- 

2  tablespoonfuls  vinegar  mentoes 

3  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  i  Neufchatel  cheese 

£  teaspoonful  salt 

Wash,  drain  and  crisp  the  lettuce  leaves.  Beat  to- 
gether the  vinegar,  oil  and  salt,  pour  over  the  leaves  and 
toss  them  together,  then  arrange  on  a  large  plate  to  simu- 
late the  original  head.  Sprinkle  with  the  pimentoes,  then 
sprinkle  the  cheese  over  it  through  a  potato  ricer,  and 
serve  immediately. 

Lenten  Salad 

2  cupfuls  shredded  celery  Radish  roses 

£  cupful  radishes,  sliced  2  hard-cooked  eggs 

•h  cupful  broken  walnut  Boiled  or  mayonnaise  dress- 

meats  ing 

Lettuce 


472  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Shred  the  eggs;  mix  together  the  other  ingredients, 
add  the  dressing  and  then  the  egg.  Mix  lightly,  dispose 
on  lettuce  nests  and  garnish  with  additional  dressing  and 
radish  roses. 

Kidney  Bean  Salad 

i  pint  cooked  kidney  beans  I  tablespoonful   minced 

i  tablespoonful  vinegar  chives 

3  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  i  tablespoonful  minced  pars- 

1  teaspoonful  salt  ley 

2  tablespoonfuls    minced  £  teaspoonful  pepper 
green  pepper  Lettuce  or  cress 

Mix  the  ingredients  thoroughly;  let  stand  twenty  min- 
utes to  marinate,  and  arrange  on  lettuce.  Garnish  with 
green  peppers  stuffed  with  cabbage  salad,  and  with  pars- 
ley and  pimento  strips. 

Fresh  Lima  Bean  Salad 

1  quart   cooked   green   lima  4  tablespoonfuls   minced 
beans  green  peppers 

2  tablespoonfuls   minced  Sour  milk  salad  dressing 
onion  Lettuce  or  cress 

Mix  the  vegetables  together,  thoroughly,  and  add  the 
dressing.  Chill,  arrange  on  lettuce  and  garnish  with 
parsley,  or  additional  pepper.  If  a  very  substantial  dish 
is  desired,  a  cupful  of  broken  hickory  nut  or  black  wal- 
nut meats,  or  four  chopped,  hard-cooked  eggs  may  be 
added ;  or  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  any  minced  meat  will 
make  it  sufficiently  nourishing  for  the  main  dish  at  sup- 
per. 

Field  Salad 

Romaine  i  green  pepper,  shredded 

Chicory  i  teaspoonful  salt 

4  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  tablespoonfuls  vinegar  Radish   roses   or   ripe  olives 

i£  cupfuls  diced  celery  (optional) 

Wash  the  romaine  and  chicory  thoroughly,  and  let 
crisp.  Remove  the  strings  from  the  celery  and  cut  in 
dice,  then  let  stand  thirty  minutes  in  cold,  salted  water. 
Arrange  in  a  salad  bowl  or  on  individual  plates  as  fol- 
lows :  First  the  romaine  leaves,  then  the  chicory,  plucked 
from  the  stems,  and  the  celery  and  pepper  last  on  top. 
Pour  over  French  dressing  made  of  the  oil,  vinegar  and 
seasonings  and  garnish  with  the  radish  roses  or  olives. 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM       473 

Endive  Ring  Salad 

6  green  pepper  rings  Roquefort  dressing 

French  endive  Lettuce 

Cut  six  green  pepper  rings.  Clean  the  endive,  cutting 
the  stalks  in  quarters.  Marinate  thirty  minutes  in  the 
dressing,  slip  in  bundles  through  the  rings,  and  serve 
garnished  with  the  lettuce. 

Dandelion  and  Bacon  Salad 

i  quart  young  dandelions  i£  tablespoonfuls  vinegar 

3  strips  bacon,  cubed  Few  grains  cayenne 

Clean  the  greens  thoroughly  but  do  not  disturb  the 
shape.  Plunge  into  boiling  water,  then  at  once  into  cold 
water.  Let  stand  twenty  minutes.  In  the  meantime  fry 
the  bacon  and  to  three  tablespoonfuls  of  the  hot  fat  add 
the  vinegar  and  cayenne.  Drain  the  dandelions,  mix  well 
with  this  dressing  and  garnish  with  the  bacon. 

Red  Cabbage  and  Pepper  Salad 

1  handsome  red  cabbage  Boiled  salad  dressing 

2  green  peppers  minced 

Remove  the  center  of  the  head  of  cabbage,  reserving 
the  shell  for  a  cabbage  bowl.  Shred  the  center  very- 
fine,  and  place  with  the  pepper  in  cold,  salted  water  for 
an  hour,  changing  the  water  three  times.  Wash  the 
cabbage  shell  and  wipe  it  dry.  Drain  and  dry  the  cab- 
bage and  pepper,  mix  with  the  dressing  and  pile  in  the 
shell.  The  cabbage  bowl  should  stand  on  a  doily-cov- 
ered plate  in  a  nest  of  shredded  lettuce. 

Cabbage  and  Celery  Slaw 

3  cupfuls    shredded    cabbage          i  teaspoonful    minced    pars- 
li  cupfuls  diced  celery  ley 

1  teaspoonful  onion  juice  Uncooked  sour  cream  dress- 

2  minced  pimentoes  ing 

Freshen  both  the  cabbage  and  celery  in  cold  water. 
Drain  thoroughly,  add  the  dressing,  onion  juice  and 
pimentoes.  Mix  well.  Serve  at  once. 

Cabbage  Salad  or  Cold  Slaw 

Shred  the  desired  amount  of  cabbage  fine.  Let  stand 
in  cold,  salted  water  till  crisp  —  about  two  hours.  Drain, 


474  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

dry   well   on   a   towel,   and   mix   with   French   dressing. 
Serve  garnished  with  any  desired  green. 

Cucumber  and  Onion  Salad 

2  cucumbers  2  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 

2  Bermuda    onions  i  tablespoonful    vinegar 

1  tablespoonful  minced  i  teaspoonful  salt 
parsley  Few  grains  pepper 

Lettuce 

Slice  the  cucumbers  and  onions  thin,  and  let  stand 
separately  in  cold  water  to  crisp.  Mix  together  the  pars- 
ley, olive  oil,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper,  and  beat  well. 
Drain  the  vegetables,  arrange  on  lettuce,  pour  over  the 
dressing  and  serve  at  once. 

Moulded  Cowslip,  Spinach,  or  Dandelion  Salad 

2  cupfuls  cooked  greens,  Boiled   oil  dressing,   or 
chopped  and  seasoned  with          Plain   boiled   dressing 
salt  and  pepper  and  a  little         Lettuce 

butter 

Pack  the  greens  into  timbale  moulds,  or  egg  cups, 
which  have  been  rubbed  lightly  with  a  little  olive  oil. 
Chill.  Unmould  on  individual  plates;  garnish  with  the 
lettuce  leaves  and  pour  over  plain  boiled  dressing,  or 
boiled  oil  salad  dressing. 

Note :  Any  kind  of  greens,  such  as  beet  tops,  young 
turnip  tops,  radish  tops,  or  any  of  the  wild  greens  men- 
tioned in  the  chapter  on  Edible  Weeds  may  be  used  in 
this  way,  if  boiled  and  seasoned. 

Celery,  Cheese  and  Green  Pepper  Salad 

2^  cupfuls    shredded    celery  i  teaspoonful   salt 

£  cupful    shredded   green  Few  grains  paprika 

peppers  2  tablespoonfuls  grated  Par- 

3  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  mesan  cheese 
ii  tablespoonfuls  vinegar  Lettuce 

Shred  the  celery  and  let  stand  in  cold,  salted  water 
until  curly.  Remove  the  seeds  and  core  from  the  pep- 
pers, and  shred  the  peppers  fine.  Let  stand  in  cold, 
salted  water  two  hours.  Make  a  French  dressing  of 
the  oil,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper.  Drain  the  celery  and 
peppers,  add  the  dressing  and  dispose  on  crisp  lettuce 
leaves.  Sprinkle  with  the  cheese  and  serve. 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM      475 

Celery,  Nut  and  Pepper  Salad 

2i  cupfuls    shredded    celery  i  chopped  green  pepper  or 

i  cupful  broken  walnut  pimento 

meats  Lettuce  or  watercress 

French  dressing  Boiled  or  mayonnaise  dress- 

ing, if  desired 

Cut  the  celery  in  shreds  and  let  stand  an  hour  in  cold 
salted  water.  Drain  well,  mix  with  the  nut  meats  and 
pepper  and  toss  with  French  dressing.  Let  stand  ten 
minutes  to  become  very  cold,  and  serve  on  lettuce  leaves. 
Pass  mayonnaise  or  boiled  dressing,  if  desired. 

Celery,  Nut  and  Cranberry  Salad 

ij  cupfuls   shredded  celery  Lettuce 

i  cupful  cranberries  3  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 

\  cupful  walnut  meats  i  tablespoonful  vinegar 

Salt  i  tablespoonful  cranberry 

juice 

Cook  the  cranberries  in  a  little  syrup  made  of  equal 
parts  of  sugar  and  water.  Leave  the  berries  whole. 
Shred  the  celery  in  two-inch  lengths,  and  let  "  curl "  in 
cold  water  two  hours.  Make  a  French  dressing  of  the 
oil,  vinegar,  cranberry  juice  and  salt.  Mix  with  the  cel- 
ery, arrange  nests  of  the  lettuce,  pile  the  celery  on  each, 
strew  with  the  cranberries,  and  sprinkle  the  nuts,  chop- 
ped, over  the  tops. 

Beet  and  Cabbage  Salad 

I  pint  shredded  cabbage  Boiled  dressing 

1  pint  chopped  cooked  beets  Lettuce,  cress  or  celery  tips 

Shred  the  cabbage  and  let  stand  in  cold,  salted  water  to 
crisp.  Chop  the  beets.  Drain  and  dry  the  cabbage,  mix 
the  two  together,  moisten  with  boiled  dressing,  and  serve 
on  a  bed  of  the  salad  green.  A  few  broken  nut  meats 
may  be  sprinkled  on  each  serving,  if  desired,  to  reinforce 
the  food  value. 

Asparagus  Salad,  Christmas  Style 

30  stalks   cooked   asparagus  i  tablespoonful  vinegar 

6  hard-cooked  egg  rings  Few  grains  cayenne 

\  teaspoon ful  salt  Heart  leaves  of  lettuce 

2  shredded  pimentoes  Few  drops  lemon  juice 

3  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 


476  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

To  make  the  egg  rings,  hard  cook  the  eggs,  cool,  then 
cut  in  sections  crosswise,  about  one-half  inch  wide. 
Only  two  rings  can  be  obtained  from  one  egg.  Beat  to- 
•gether  the  olive  oil,  vinegar,  salt,  pepper  and  onion  juice, 
and  pour  over  the  asparagus.  Let  stand  in  a  cold  place 
for  thirty  minutes.  Then  arrange  the  stalks  in  bundles 
of  five,  slipping  them  through  the  egg  rings  and  arrang- 
ing on  lettuce. 

Garnish  further  with  pimentoes,  which  should  be 
shredded  fine.  Use  the  hard-cooked  egg  yolks  for  "  Old- 
Time  Cookies." 

Asparagus  Bundle  Salad 

30  stalks  cooked  asparagus  Radish  and  French  dressing 

2  cupfuls    shredded   French  6  lemon  peel  rings 

endive  or  celery  Watercress  or  tender  radish 

leaves 

Marinate  the  endive  thirty  minutes  in  French  dressing. 
Slip  five  stalks  of  asparagus  through  each  lemon  ring,  and 
let  stand  in  the  radish  dressing  thirty  minutes.  Arrange 
the  endive  on  plates,  put  the  asparagus  on  this,  and  pour 
the  remaining  radish  dressing  over  each  serving.  Garnish 
with  cress  or  tender  radish  leaves. 

Asparagus  Luncheon  Salad 

2  cupfuls  cooked  fresh  or  2  hard-cooked  eggs 

canned  asparagus   (diced)  Boiled   dressing 

2  cupfuls  shredded  lettuce  Lettuce  leaves 

Mix  together  the  asparagus  and  shredded  lettuce,  with 
enough  dressing  to  moisten  thoroughly.  Let  chill,  ar- 
range on  lettuce  leaves,  and  garnish  with  the  hard- 
cooked  eggs  and  additional  dressing. 


FRUIT  SALADS 

Fruit  salads,  like  those  made  of  vegetables,  are  also 
limited  only  by  the  imagination.  It  is  not  necessary  to 
have  a  cut  and  dried  recipe  to  make  salads  of  this  type, 
for  in  any  household  the  odds  and  ends  of  any  raw  or 
stewed  fruits  accumulate,  and  these  may  be  used  up  in 
this  delicious  way,  in  the  form  of  a  sweet  salad  for  lunch- 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM      477 

eon  or  supper,  or  may  be  served  with  crackers  and  cheese 
as  the  dessert  course  at  dinner. 

It  must  be  kept  in  mind  in  preparing  salads  of  this 
type  that  there  should  be  a  certain  per  cent,  of  hard  fruit 
introduced,  such  as  apple,  diced  fresh  pineapple,  or,  in 
some  instances,  a  little  diced  celery.  This  gives  sub- 
stance to  the  salad  and  relieves  the  monotonous  taste. 
The  salad  should  also  be  slightly  tart.  To  this  end  it  is 
better  to  put  it  together  with  French  fruit  dressing  which 
contains  lemon  juice.  This  is  much  better  in  a  fruit 
salad  than  vinegar.  If  the  fruit  is  very  sweet  it  may  be 
allowed  to  stand  with  a  little  plain  lemon  juice  on  it  be- 
fore arranging  for  the  table.  Plain  honey  salad  dress- 
ing, honey  cream  dressing,  boiled  oil  salad  dressing, 
currant  or  cranberry  jelly  dressing,  mayonnaise,  and  Bar 
le  Due  dressing  are  all  suitable  for  use  on  fruit  salads. 

Plain  Fruit  Salad 

Pare  oranges  and  separate  into  sections.  Pare  grape-  • 
fruit  and  separate  into  "  carpels  "  and  shred  pineapple 
into  sections.  Dress  each  one  separately  with  French 
fruit  salad  dressing,  and  arrange  them  on  lettuce  leaves 
—  a  grapefruit  section,  an  orange  section,  and  a  section 
or  two  of  pineapple  for  each  person.  Decorate  with 
shredded  Maraschino  cherries. 

Hawaiian  Salad 

6  slices  Hawaiian  pineapple  £  cupful   halved   and   seeded 

I  cupful  diced  French  endive  Malaga  grapes 

Shredded  lettuce 

Arrange  the  pineapple  on  shredded  lettuce.  Marinate 
the  grapes  and  endive  in  French  fruit  salad  dressing,  and 
put  a  spoonful  on  each  slice  of  pineapple.  Pour  over 
more  French  dressing,  let  stand  to  become  very  cold,  and 
serve  with  wafers  or  sweet  sandwiches  and  coffee  as  a 
dessert. 

Strawberry  Salad 

Wash  and  hull  the  berries,  cut  in  halves  lengthwise, 
and  let  stand  thirty  minutes  in  honey  salad  dressing  in  a 
cold  place.  Drain,  prrange  on  lettuce  leaves  and  serve 
at  once. 


478  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Elite  Fruit  Salad 

2  lettuce  hearts  i  cupful  pecan  nuts,  chopped 

2  bananas,    sliced  rather  coarse 

1  cupful   Malaga  grapes  Mayonnaise  or  honey  dress- 
( halved  and  seeded)  ing 

2  tart  apples,   diced 

Shred  the  lettuce  into  pieces  the  size  of  a  postage 
stamp.  Peel  and  halve  the  grapes,  removing  the  seeds ; 
pare  and  cut  the  apples  into  small  cubes.  Combine  and 
marinate  thirty  minutes  in  a  dressing  made  of  2  table- 
spoonfuls  olive  oil  and  one  tablespoonful  lemon  juice. 
Add  the  nuts  and  bananas,  drain,  and  garnish  on  indi- 
vidual plates  with  tiny  lettuce  leaves,  disposing  a  spoon- 
'ful  of  dressing  on  each  serving. 

Date  and  Apple  Salad 

1  cupful  stoned  and  quar-  ii  tablespoonfuls  lemon 
tered  dates  juice 

2  cupfuls  diced  tart  apple  3  tablespoonfuls   olive  oil 
pulp  i  tablesponful  powdered 

1  cupful   English   or  black  sugar 
walnuts  or  peanut  meats             Lettuce 

Few  grains  salt 

Mix  together  the  oil,  lemon  juice,  sugar  and  salt  till 
thoroughly  emulsified.  Pour  over  the  dates  and  apples 
separately.  Let  stand  thirty  minutes  in  a  cold  place  to 
season,  then  toss  together,  arrange  on  lettuce  leaves,  and 
sprinkle  with  the  nuts,  which  should  be  chopped. 

Cherry  and  Nut  Salad 

£  can,  or  i  pint,  fresh  cher-  Shelled  peanuts    (small),   or 

ries  filberts 

Lettuce  Mayonnaise  or  boiled  oil 

dressing 

Stone  the  cherries,  and  replace  the  pits  with  the  nut 
meats.  Arrange  on  lettuce  leaves  and  serve  with  the  de- 
sired dressing. 

Rhubarb  and  Canned  Pear  Salad 

2  cupfuls  diced  rhubarb  6  tablespoonfuls    chopped 
J  cupful  sugar  candied  ginger 

6  halves  canned  pears  3  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 

i  teaspoonful   sugar  i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

Lettuce  Few  grains  salt 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM       479 

Put  the  rhubarb  and  a  half  cupful  of  sugar  together  in 
a  casserole  and  bake  until  tender,  but  not  broken.  Make 
a  French  dressing  of  the  oil,  sugar,  lemon  juice  and  salt, 
mixing  it  thoroughly.  Arrange  the  rhubarb  on  the  let- 
tuce, and  pour  over  a  little  dressing ;  set  a  whole  pear-half 
on  this,  add  more  dressing,  and  sprinkle  with  the  ginger. 

Prune  and  Tangerine  Salad 

30  sections  of  tangerine  or-          Walnut  meats 

anges  French  fruit  salad  dressing 

18  prunes  Lettuce,  parsley  or  celery 

Orange  juice  tips 

Soak  the  prunes  for  two  hours  in  a  little  orange  juice ; 
then  remove  the  stones,  replacing  them  with  walnut 
meats.  Pour  French  dressing  over  the  orange  sections 
and  let  stand  for  thirty  minutes.  Drain;  arrange  indi- 
vidually on  salad  plates,  and  pile  the  prunes  in  the  center. 
Pour  over  the  drained  French  dressing  and  garnish  with 
the  desired  salad  green. 

Alligator  Pear  Salad 

This  may  be  made  in  a  variety  of  ways,  but  it  is  always 
necessary  to  use  French  dressing,  well-seasoned,  and  a 
dusting  of  cayenne  or  paprika.  The  fruit  may  be  cut  in 
halves  lengthwise,  the  flesh  scooped  out  and  mixed  with 
a  third  the  quantity  of  minced  cress,  or  minced  chives, 
some  sliced  radishes,  diced  beets,  cubed  cucumbers,  etc. 

Or  it  may  be  made  into  a  sweet  salad.  In  this  case  use 
French  fruit  dressing  and  a  dusting  of  sugar  and  a  little 
cinnamon.  Serve  this  with  whole  wheat  bread  and  but- 
ter sandwiches,  or  omit  the  cinnamon  and  accompany  the 

salad  with  cinnamon  toast. 

i 

Fresh  Pineapple  Salad 

Remove  the  skin  and  eyes  from  a  pineapple.  Chip  the 
pulp  into  thin,  small  slices,  dress  with  honey  dressing, 
and  let  stand  thirty  minutes.  Serve  on  lettuce  leaves. 

Pineapple  Salad,  Pullman  Style 

4  slices  canned  pineapple  12  small  pimento  strips 

1  a   snappy  cheese  French  dressing 

i  head  lettuce 


480  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Arrange  the  lettuce  in  a  deep  salad  bowl.  Tuck  the 
pineapple  (diced)  and  pimento  between  the  leaves,  dot 
with  the  cheese,  crumbled,  pour  over  the  French  dress- 
ing, and  serve  after  mixing  at  the  table  with  a  salad 
spoon  and  fork. 

Porcupine  Salad 

6  whole  canned  pears  2  tablespoonfuls  grapefruit 
i  cupful  browned  and  shred-  juice 

ded  almonds  Few  grains  salt 

12  large  whole  cloves  Few  grains  pepper 

4  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  Lettuce 
i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

Drain  the  pears  and  stick  in  two  cloves  at  the  small 
ends  to  represent  eyes.  Place  the  pears  in  a  dish,  and 
marinate  in  a  French  dressing  made  of  the  oil,  lemon  and 
grapefruit  juices  with  seasonings.  After  thirty  minutes 
stick  the  shredded  almonds  in  each  pear  to  represent 
quills,  and  serve  on  lettuce. 

Kumquat  and  Pear  Salad 

6  pear  halves  Bar  le  Due  dressing 

12  kumquats  Lettuce 

Cream  cheese  balls  French  dressing 
Powdered  mint 

Marinate  the  halves  of  pears  thirty  minutes  in  Bar  le 
Due  dressing  and  the  kumquats  (cut  in  quarters  length- 
wise) the  same  time  in  the  French  dressing.  Arrange  the 
pear  halves  individually  on  plates  containing  lettuce, 
with  the  kumquats  radiating  like  flower  petals.  Pour  the 
balance  of  the  Bar  le  Due  dressing  over  the  pears,  and 
place  three  tiny  cream  cheese  balls  rolled  in  powdered 
mint  in  the  hollow  of  each  pear. 

* 
Harvest  Salad 

3  large  russet  pears  3  tablespoonfuls    chopped 

il  cupfuls  celery  straws  pistachio  nuts 

3  tablespoonfuls  Canton  gin-          4  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 

ger  cut  in  bits    -  2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 

6  tablespoonfuls    Malaga  Few  grains  salt 

grapes,  quartered  Curly  lettuce 
i  teaspoonful  powdered 

sugar 

Let  the  celery  strips  stand  two  hours  in  cold,  salted 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM       481 

water  to  curl.  Peel  the  pears,  cut  in  halves  and  remove 
the  cores.  Mix  together  the  ginger  and  grapes  with  a 
little  mayonnaise,  and  fill  the  cavities  of  the  pears.  Ar- 
range individually, —  making  a  nest  of  celery  on  some 
lettuce  leaves,  placing  a  half  pear  in  the  center  and 
sprinkling  with  nutmeats.  Marinate  in  a  dressing  made 
of  the  oil,  lemon  juice,  salt  and  powdered  sugar.  Let 
stand  a  few  minutes  to  season,  and  serve  very  cold. 

Grapefruit  Salad 

French  dressing  2  green  peppers- 

3  large    grapefruit  Lettuce 

Pare  the  grapefruit  and  cut  out  the  carpels.  Cut 
these  in  three  pieces  each,  and  let  stand  closely  covered, 
for  ten  minutes  with  the  French  dressing  seasoned  with 
paprika.  In  the  meantime,  remove  the  seeds  and  core 
from  the  peppers  and  shred  them  fine.  Boil  one  minute, 
drain  and  chill.  Arrange  the  grapefruit  on  lettuce  leaves, 
strew  with  the  peppers  and  serve  very  cold. 

Canned  Pear  and  Orange  Salad 

ii  cupfuls  diced  canned  pears          Currant  and  French  fruit 
3  oranges,  separated  into  sec-  dressings 

tions  Lettuce 

Marinate  the  pears  thirty  minutes  in  the  currant  dress- 
ing; let  the  oranges  stand  an  equal  length  of  time  in  the 
French  dressing.  Then  arrange  the  orange  sections  on  a 
bed  of  lettuce,  with  the  pears  in  the  center. 

Canned  Peach  and  Nut  Salad 

Select  a  large  half  peach  for  each  person.  Let  stand 
thirty  minutes  in  a  little  French  fruit  dressing;  drain 
and  fill  the  center  with  chopped  figs,  dates  or  prunes 
mixed  with  a  little  cream.  Sprinkle  with  chopped 
cashew  nuts,  place  on  lettuce  leaves  and  serve. 

Chrysanthemum  Salad 

6  small  oranges  4  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 

3  tablespoonfuls  minced  I  tablespoonftil    lemon  juice 

mint  or  parsley  leaves  Few  grains  salt 

8  tablespoonfuls  minced  Mayonnaise  or  boiled  oil 

celery  dressing 

2  tablespoonfuls  minced  pi-  Lettuce 

mentoes 


482  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Peel  the  oranges  and  scrape  off  the  outside  membrane ; 
then  cut  through  the  sections  to  the  center,  separating 
them  from  the  tough  skin,  but  cutting  only  to  within  an 
inch  of  the  bottom,  so  that  the  sections  will  hang  together. 
Cut  out  the  separated  membranes  with  the  scissors,  and 
let  the  oranges  stand  twenty  minutes  in  a  dressing  made 
of  the  olive  oil,  lemon  juice  and  salt.  Then  drain  and 
fill  the  centers  with  the  minced  celery  and  pimentoes, 
mixed  with  the  dressing.  Arrange  individually  on  let- 
tuce leaves,  and  strew  the  mint  or  parsley  sparingly  over 
the  center  and  out  on  "  the  petals." 

Albany  Salad 

i  can  of  tangerines,  or  £  cupful  diced  French  en- 

I  cupful   tangerine   sections  dive 

i  can   Muscat  grapes,   or  Lettuce 

i  cupful  seeded  and  peeled  Cress 

Muscats   or   Malagas  Honey  salad  dressing 

i .  dozen   English   violets 

Combine  the  tangerines,  grapes  and  endive ;  toss  in  the 
honey  dressing.  Arrange  on  a  bed  of  lettuce,  border 
with  lettuce  and  cress,  bestrew  with  violet  petals,  and 
garnish  with  whole  violets. 

Cranberry  Fruit  Salad 

Allow  one-half  a  banana,  two  orange  sections,  and  a 
few  seeded  and  halved  Malaga  grapes  to  each  person. 
Peel  the  bananas,  cut  in  halves,  and  then  in  thin  slices 
crosswise.  Set  these  pieces,  slightly  separated,  on  a  bed 
of  shredded  lettuce.  Place  the  orange  sections  on  one 
side  and  the  grapes  on  the  other,  after  marinating  well 
in  plain  French  dressing,  and  pour  cranberry  salad  dress- 
ing over  the  banana.  Serve  very  cold. 

Banana  Ball  Salad 

Bananas  Mayonnaise 

Chopped  peanuts  Lettuce 

With  a  French  *  vegetable  cutter,  cut  balls  from  the 
peeled  bananas,  allowing  six  to  a  person.  Roll  these  in 
the  mayonnaise,  then  in  the  peanuts,  and  serve  on  lettuce. 
Use  the  remaining  banana  pulp  for  a  Banana  Bavarian 
Cream,  or  custard. 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM      483 

Black  Susan  Salad 

Separate  oranges  into  sections,  allowing  half  a  large 
fruit  to  a  person.  Cut  figs  into  dice,  mix  with  an  equal 
quantity  of  chopped  celery,  and  moisten  slightly  with 
French  fruit  salad  dressing.  Marinate  the  orange  car- 
pels with  this  dressing,  then  put  them  on  individual 
plates,  arranging  them  like  black-eyed  Susan  petals. 

Form  the  centers  of  the  fig  mixture,  and  garnish  the 
salad  with  tips  of  celery. 

Banana  Boat  Salad 

Allow  a  banana  for  each  person.  Remove  the  top  to 
give  the  outlines  of  a  boat,  and  scoop  out  the  pulp  with  a 
French  potato  cutter.  Mix  with  an  equal  quantity  of 
diced  canned  pineapple,  dress  with  mayonnaise  and  gar- 
nish with  banana  balls,  rolled  in  shredded  candied  pine- 
apple, and  garnish  with  lettuce  leaves  and  parsley;  finish 
with  a  tiny  American  flag  at  the  "  stern." 

Apple,  Celery  and  Raisin  Salad 

2  cupfuls  diced,  tart  apples  2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 

i  cupful  diced  celery  I  teaspoonful  powdered 

i  cupful  raisins  sugar 

Few  grains  salt  Celery  or  cress  leaves 

i  cupful  olive  oil 

Stew  the  raisins  in  a  little  water.  Mix  together  the 
oil,  salt,  lemon  juice,  sugar,  and  -a  tablespoonful  of  the 
raisin  juice,  beating  well.  Marinate  the  apple,  celery 
and  raisins  in  it  for  thirty  minutes,  then  serve,  gar- 
nished with  the  green. 

Waldorf  Salad 

Large  rosy  apples  Mayonnaise  or  boiled  oil 

Celery  dressing 

Walnut  meats  Lettuce 

Form  the  apples  into  cups  by  cutting  off  the  tops  and 
scooping  out  the  pulp  with  a  pointed  spoon.  Drop  the 
cups  into  water  as  soon  as  made  to  prevent  discoloration, 
and  cut  the  removed  apple  pulp  into  cubes.  Add  an 
equal  quantity  of  diced  celery,  and  a  fourth  the  quantity 
of  broken  walnut  meats.  Mix  witii  the  salad  dressing 
and  pile  in  the  cups.  Serve  individually,  each  cup  set  on 


484  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

a  lettuce  leaf.     Garnish  the  top  of  each  cup  with  a  sprig 
of  parsley  and  additional  dressing. 


Autumn  Salad 

ii  cupfuls  sliced  oranges  2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 

I  cupful  chestnuts  measured  4  tablespoonfuls   olive   oil 

before  blanching  Few  grains  salt 

i  cupful  large  seeded  raisins  Endive  or  lettuce 

Blanch  the  chestnuts,  chill  and  slice  them.  Soak  the 
raisins  thirty  minutes  in  cold  water  to  cover,  then  boil 
five  minutes.  Slice  the  oranges,  carefully  removing  the 
membrane,  and  then  combine  the  three  ingredients. 
Marinate  in  a  dressing  made  of  the  salt,  oil  and  lemon 
juice,  and  serve  on  a  bed  of  the  salad  green. 


May  Salad 

2  cupfuls  pineapple  flowerets          il  cupfuls  halved  strawber- 
Sections  of  two  oranges  ries 

2  bananas  cut  crosswise  French  fruit  dressing 

Cream  honey  dressing 

Prepare  a  bed  of  lettuce  leaves  and  arrange  the  salad 
as  follows:  The  pineapple  in  the  center,  then  a  ring  of 
cut  strawberry,  a  ring  of  banana  sections,  overlapping, 
and  points  of  orange.  Pass  cream  honey  dressing. 


Frozen  Fruit  Mayonnaise 

I  cupful  mayonnaise  dressing  sliced  peaches,  stoned  cher- 

i  cupful  heavy  whipped  cream  ries,  etc. 

2\  cupfuls  mixed   fresh  and  I  teaspoonful  powdered 

candied     fruits,     such      .s  sugar 

Maraschino    cherries,    can-  i   teaspoonful  gelatine 

died     pineapple,     oranges,  Lettuce  hearts 

Parsley 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  cold  water  and  then  set  it  over 
steam,  then  beat  it  into  the  mayonnaise.  Combine  the 
mixture  with  the  whipped  cream,  stir  in  the  fruit  and 
pour  into  a  mould  which  has  been  rinsed  with  cold  water. 
Seal  carefully,  and  bury  in  equal  parts  of  ice  and-salt  for 
four  hours.  Serve  garnished  with  the  lettuce  hearts  and 
parsley. 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM      485 

Cheese  and  Nut  Ball  Salad 

i  cupful  Neufchatel,  cream  Few  grains  paprika 

or  cottage  cheese  \  cupful  English  walnut 

i  cupful  chopped  stuffed  meats,  chopped 

olives  French  dressing 

3  tablespoonfuls  cream  Watercress 

Mix  well,   form  into  balls   with  butter  paddles,  and 
serve  with  French  dressing  on  cress. 


MEAT  SALADS 

Ham  and  Lettuce  Salad 

i  cupful  minced  ham  Few  grains  each  salt,  pepper 

3  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  and  mustard 

i  chopped  hard-cooked  egg  i  small  head  ribboned  lettuce 
I  tablespoonful  vinegar 

Toss  together  till  well-blended  and  serve  with  hot  but- 
tered toast. 

Chicken  Salad 

2.\  cupfuls  diced  cooked  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

chicken  Mayonnaise   or  boiled  oil      , 

1  cupful  diced  celery  dressing 

2  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  Garnishings 

1  tablespoonful  vinegar  Lettuce 

Toss  together  the  celery,  chicken,  olive  oil,  vinegar, 
salt  and  pepper,  and  let  stand  thirty  minutes  in  a  cold 
place,  then  add  enough  mayonnaise  to  bind  the  mixture. 
Arrange  on  a  bed  of  lettuce,  spread  a  little  mayonnaise  on 
the  top  and  decorate  with  stuffed  olives,  strips  of  pim- 
ento, bits  of  capers,  radish  roses,  parsley,  or  any  other 
desired  garnish. 

Chicken  Salad,  Individual  Service 
Prepare  chicken  salad  according  to  the  preceding  recipe 
and  arrange  for  individual  service  in  ramekins,  each  con- 
taining a  small  heart-leaf  of  lettuce. 

Chicken  Salad,  Garden  Style 

2  cupfuls  diced  chicken  2  hard-cooked  eggs 

I  cupful  cooked  string  beans  i  tablespoonful  vinegar 

2"  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  Lettuce,  romaine  or  cress 

Mayonnaise  or  boiled  oil  ' 
dressing 


486  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Chop  the  eggs  fine,  add  to  the  chicken  and  beans,  and 
pour  on  the  oil.  Toss  well,  add  the  vinegar  and  a  little 
salt,  and  let  stand  half  an  hour  to  season ;  then  bind  with 
the  dressing  and  serve  on  a  bed  of  the  desired  salad 
green. 

Manhattan  Salad 

ii  cupfuls  diced  cooked  Mayonnaise  and   French 

chicken  dressings 

i  cupful  diced  celery  Lettuce 

i  cupful  diced  canned  pine-  Ripe  olives 

apple 

Combine  the  first  three  ingredients  with  a  little  French 
dressing  to  moisten,  add  mayonnaise  to  bind  together, 
arrange  on  lettuce  and  garnish  with  the  ripe  olives. 

Salad  of  Duck,  Celery  and  Peas 

2j  cupfuls  diced  cooked  duck  2  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 

I  cupful  diced  celery  i  tablespoonful  vinegar 

1  cupful  diced  cooked  pears  Salt  and  pepper 
Boiled  salad  dressing  Lettuce 

£  teaspoonful  Worcestershire 

Mix  together  the  duck,  celery  and  peas ;  pour  over  the 
oil,  vinegar  and  Worcestershire,  add  a  little  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  toss  until  all  is  absorbed.  Let  stand  twenty 
minutes  in  a  cold  place,  then  moisten,  well  with  the  boiled 
dressing,  and  serve  on  lettuce,  cress,  or  garnish  with 
celery  tips. 

Lamb  Salad  with  Asparagus 

2  cupfuls  cold  cooked  lamb,          2  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 
diced  i  tablespoonful  vinegar 

i  cupful  diced  celery  i  teaspoonful  salt 

I  cupful  asparagus,  diced  Asparagus  tips 

1  teaspoonful  pepper  Celery  tips 

&  teaspoonful  curry  powder  Mayonnaise  or  cream  dress- 

2  hard-cooked  eggs  ing  to  moisten 

Mix  together  the  lamb,  celery  and  asparagus.  Add  the 
pepper,  curry  and  salt  to  the  olive  oil  and  vinegar,  beat 
well,  and  turn  into  the  salad.  Moisten  with  cream 
dressing,  arrange  on  a  platter,  and  garnish  with  hard- 
cooked  eggs,  asparagus  tips  and  celery  leaves. 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM      487 
Turban  Salad 

6  very  small  turban  squashes          Mayonnaise   and   French 

1  cupful  diced  cooked  string  dressings 

beans,  chicken  and  celery,          Watercress,  romaine,  or  let- 
mixed  tuce 

Boil  the  squash  gently  until  tender  in  slightly  salted 
water,  drain  and  hollow  to  form  cups.  Pour  on  French 
dressing  and  let  stand  one  hour  to  chill.  Mix  the  beans, 
chicken  and  celery  with  the  mayonnaise,  fill  the  cavities 
and  serve  individually,  garnished  with  the  desired  salad 
green.  Pass  cheese  crackers,  or  crackers  and  cream 
cheese  balls. 

Tongue  and  Green  Pea  Salad 

2  cupfuls  cold  tongue,  diced  £  teaspoonful  salt 

I  pint  green  peas   (cooked)  -J  teaspoonful  pepper 

1  teaspoonful  Worcestershire          2  hard-cooked  eggs 

sauce  Boiled  or  mayonnaise  dress- 

2  tablespoonfuls  oil  ing 

i  tablespoonful  vinegar  Lettuce 

4  teaspoonful  curry  powder 

Mix  together  the  tongue  and  peas.  Add  the  Worces- 
tershire, oil,  curry,  salt  and  pepper  and  toss  together. 
Add  the  vinegar,  mix,  and  add  enough  dressing  to  make 
moist.  Arrange  on  lettuce,  "  mask  "  with  dressing,  and 
garnish  with  hard-cooked  eggs. 


Veal  and  Egg  Salad 

2  cupfuls  cooked,  diced  veal  i  teaspoonful    grated    horse- 
I  cupful  diced  celery  or  cab-  radish 

bage  4  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 

4  hard-cooked  eggs  ii   tablespoonfuls  vinegar 

Few  grains  pepper  Lettuce 

$  teaspoonful  salt  Boiled  salad  dressing 

Chop  the  eggs  rather  coarse  and  combine  one-half  of 
them  with  the  veal ;  add  the  celery,  horseradish  and  sea- 
sonings, sprinkle  with  the  oil,  tossing  until  it  is  absorbed, 
then  add  the  vinegar,  mixing  well.  Let  stand  thirty 
minutes.  Moisten  well  with  dressing  and  arrange  on 
lettuce.  Cover  with  more  dressing  and  sprinkle  with 
the  balance  of  the  egg. 


488  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

FISH  SALADS 

Bluefish  Salad 

1  pint  bluefish,  flaked  Cucumber  slices  or  cups 
Salt  and  pepper  Boiled   dressing 

2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice  Lettuce 

Separate  the  remnants  of  a  baked  or  broiled  bluefish 
into  flakes,  being  careful  to  discard  all  skin  and  bones. 
Season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  adding  lemon  juice  to 
taste,  and  moisten  thoroughly  with  boiled  dressing. 

Serve  on  lettuce  or  cress,  and  garnish  with  sliced 
cucumber,  or  serve  in  cucumber  cups  on  lettuce  hearts, 
and  garnish  with  figures  cut  from  red  peppers  or  beets. 

Codfish  Salad 

I  pound  salt  codfish  i  teaspoonful  Worcestershire 
&  cupful  thinly-sliced  stuffed  sauce 

olives  3  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 

I  cupful  finely-diced   celery  i  tablespoonful  vinegar 

i  teaspoonful  minced  parsley  Few  grains  pepper 

Boiled  dressing  Lettuce 

Freshen  the  codfish  over  night,  flake  it  into  bits  and 
cook  gently  for  thirty  minutes.  Cool,  add  the  olives,  cel- 
ery, parsley,  seasonings,  oil  and  vinegar  and  let  stand  an 
hour  to  marinate.  Then  toss  together  with  boiled  dress- 
ing. Arrange  on  lettuce,  and  garnish  with  sliced  olives. 

Halibut  Salad 

3  cupfuls  boiled,  flaked  hali-          i  minced  green  pepper 
but  Sour  milk  salad  dressing 

I  cupful  finely-shaved  cab-  Watercress 

bage 

Dress  the  cabbage  with  French  dressing,  add  it  to  the 
fish  with  enough  sour  milk  dressing  to  moisten,  and  toss 
lightly.  Arrange  in  a  wreath  of  cress  sprays,  studded 
with  radish  roses,  pour  a  little  extra  dressing  over  the 
fish,  and  sprinkle  with  the  pepper. 

Herring  and  Potato  Salad 

I  cupful  herring  cut  in  dice  4  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 

3  cupfuls  diced  potato  ^  3  tablespoonfuls  vinegar 

1  teaspoonful  onion  juice  Few  grains  paprika 

2  tablespoonfuls  minced  green  Few  grains  salt 

peppers  Dressed  shredded  cabbage 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM       489 

Make  a  French  dressing  of  the  oil,  vinegar,  paprika 
and  salt,  and  marinate  the  herring  and  potato  separately 
in  it  for  an  hour.  Then  combine,  pile  upon  a  platter, 
and  serve  surrounded  with  shredded  cabbage  combined 
with  French  dressing.  Sprinkle  with  the  peppers,  and 
garnish  witn  whole  herring. 

Lobster  Salad 

3  cup fuls  cold  boiled  lobster,  i  tablespoonful  vinegar 

diced  Salt  and  pepper 

1  cupful  diced  celery  Mayonnaise 

2  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil  Lettuce 

Mix  together  the  lobster,  celery,  oil  and  vinegar,  and 
then  add  mayonnaise  to  moisten.  Chill,  arrange  on  let- 
tuce leaves  and  garnish  with  mayonnaise ;  dust  with  pow- 
dered parsley. 

Lobster  Salad  in  Scallop  Shells 

Prepare  Lobster  Salad  according  to  the  preceding 
recipe.  Fill  small  scallop  shells  with  the  mixture,  pour 
a  little  mayonnaise  over  the  top,  and  garnish  with  capers, 
figures  cut  from  pimentoes  and  parsley. 

Lobster  Mousse 

2  cupfuls  pounded  cooked  2  tablespoonfuls  granulated 

lobster  meat  gelatine 

2  teaspoonfuls  mayonnaise  Few  grains  salt  and  pepper 

dressing  3  cupfuls  cooked  oyster  plant 

i  cupful  heavy  cream  Additional  mayonnaise 

Lettuce 

Soften  the  gelatine  in  water  to  cover ;  then  melt  it  over 
steam.  Add  the  seasoning  and  mayonnaise  to  the  lob- 
ster and  fold  in  the  cream  and  gelatine.  Pour  into  a 
border  mould  and  chill.  Unmould  on  lettuce  leaves  and 
fill  the  center  with  the  oyster  plant,  mixed  lightly  with 
French  dressing.  Serve  with  additional  mayonnaise. 

Crab  meat,  salmon,  or  tuna  fish  may  be  substituted 
for  the  lobster.  In  the  two  last  cases  one-half  table- 
spoonful  lemon  juice  should  be  added  to  the  mixture. 

Oyster  Salad 

1  quart    oysters  2   tablespoonfuls   green   pep- 

2  hard-cooked  eggs  pers  or  pimentoes 

\  cupful  minced  celery  French  dressing  to  marinate 

I  tablespoonful  chopped  Mayonnaise 

olives  or  pickles  Lettuce 


490  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Wash  the  oysters  and  steam  them  till  the  edges  curl. 
Cut  into  small  pieces,  rejecting  muscles,  add  the  chopped 
egg  whites  and  other  ingredients,  and  marinate  one-half 
hour  in  French  dressing.  Moisten  with  mayonnaise,  ar- 
range on  lettuce  leaves,  and  garnish  with  the  riced  yolk 
of  egg  and  mayonnaise. 

Roe  Salad 

2  cupfuls  shad  roe,  cooked  J  cupful  cut  stuffed  olives 

and  diced  Mayonnaise 

1  cupful  cucumber  cubes  Lettuce 
French  dressing 

Cut  shad  roe,  after  cooking,  into  dice.  Let  the  cucum- 
bers crisp  in  cold  water,  then  drain,  mix  with  the  shad 
roe,  and  marinate  thirty  minutes  in  French  dressing. 
Moisten  with  mayonnaise,  dispose  on  lettuce  leaves,  and 
garnish  with  mayonnaise  and  the  olives  sliced. 

Stuffed-Pepper  Salad 

6  large  sweet  peppers  Boiled  oil  or  mayonnaise 

li  cupfuls  any  flaked  cooked  dressing 

fish  Lettuce  or  dandelions 

Cut  off  the  pepper  tops ;  scoop  out  the  seeds  and  let 
the  shells  stand  thirty  minutes  in  cold,  salted  water. 
Moisten  the  fish  with  the  dressing,  drain  the  peppers,  fill 
the  shells  with  the  salad  mixture,  and  arrange  on  the 
green. 

Shrimp  Salad 

2  cans  shrimps,  or  French  dressing 
i  pint  cooked  shrimps  Cress  or  lettuce 

I  cupful  diced  celery  Boiled  oil  or  mayonnaise 

1  cupful  stuffed  olives  dressing 

Dice  the  shrimps  and  let  stand  thirty  minutes  with  a 
little  French  dressing  poured  over  them.  Then  add  the 
celery  and  olives.  Bind  with  the  boiled  oil  or  mayon- 
naise ,  dressing,  and  arrange  in  a  border  of  the  salad 
greens.  Garnish  with  extra  dressing  and  a  few  halved 
stuffed  olives  if  convenient. 

Salmon  and  Green  Pea  Salad 

2  cupfuls  fresh  or  canned  i  cupful  shredded  cabbage  or 
salmon  celery 

I  cupful  cooked  green  peas  Boiled  salad  dressing 

Lettuce  or  cress 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM      491 

Flake  the  fish  with  a  fork.  Add  the  peas  and  cabbage 
well-crisped  and  ample  dressing  to  moisten.  Let  stand 
fifteen  minutes  to  season  in  a  cold  place,  arrange  on  a 
bed  of  the  green,  pour  salad  dressing  over  the  top  and 
sprinkle  with  a  few  extra  peas  as  a  garnish. 

Salmon  Salad,  Tolland 

2  cupfuls  flaked  salmon  French  dressing 

1  cupful  chopped  stuffed  Sour  milk  salad  dressing 

olives  Lettuce  or  cress. 

i  cupful  minced  celery  or 

cabbage 

Crisp  the  celery  or  cabbage  in  cold  water.  If  canned 
salmon  is  used,  rinse  it  with  boiling  water.  Mix  together 
the  fish,  olives  and  celery,  and  marinate  with  French 
dressing  one-half  hour.  Then  mix  with  it  dressing  to 
moisten  and  arrange  on  lettucte  with  a  garnish  of  extra 
dressing. 

Sardine  Salad  (Individual) 

Arrange  nests  of  shredded  lettuce  or  sprigs  of  cress  on 
individual  plates.  Lay  in  them  three  sardines  for  each 
person.  Pour  over  Italian  dressing,  and  garnish  further 
with  a  sprig  of  parsley. 

To  make  the  salad  "  go  farther  "  place  a  spoonful  of 
cold  slaw,  made  either  with  French  dressing  or  boiled 
dressing,  in  each  nest  before  laying  on  the  sardines,  and 
then  finish  as  directed. 

Lettuce  Salad  with  Anchovy  Dressing 

1  hard  head  of  lettuce  4  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil 

2  anchovies  2  tablespoonfuls  vinegar 
I  hard-cooked  egg  yolk  Paprika  and  salt 

I  clove  garlic  (optional) 

Arrange  the  lettuce  in  a  salad  bowl  and  pour  over  the 
dressing  made  as  follows :  Wash,  dry  and  bone  the  an- 
chovies, rub  them  smooth  with  the  garlic  and  the  egg 
yolk,  mix  with  the  vinegar,  then  with  the  oil,  and  add  a 
little  salt  and  paprika.  Sardines  may  be  substituted  for 
the  anchovies. 

Tuna  Fish  Salad 

I  pint  tuna  fish,  flaked  Vinegar 

I  cupful  diced  celery  Lettuce 

i  cupful  sliced  stuffed  olives  Boiled  dressing 

Oil 


492  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Pour  a  tablespoon ful  of  oil  and  a  half  tablespoonful 
of  vinegar  over  the  fish.  Let  stand  thirty  minutes,  then 
mix  with  the  celery,  moisten  thoroughly  with  boiled 
dressing,  and  arrange  on  the  lettuce.  Pour  a  little  extra 
dressing  over  the  top,  and  sprinkle  with  the  olives. 

Tomato  Salad  a  la  Crab  Flakes 

6  firm  tomatoes  3  hard-cooked  eggs 

i  cupful  crab  flakes  6  sprigs  cress 

1  tablespoonful  minced  pars-  Lettuce  hearts 
ley  Mayonnaise 

Remove  the  tomato  skins.  Scoop  out  the  centers, 
forming  cups,  and  dust  with  salt  and  pepper.  Remove 
all  shell  from  the  crab  flakes  and  toss  lightly  with  one- 
half  the  parsley  and  mayonnaise.  Re-fill  the  tomato 
cups  with  this  mixture,  pjace  a  spoonful  of  mayonnaise 
on  top  of  each,  put  the  hard-cooked  egg  yolks  through  a 
potato  ricer  and  sprinkle  on  generously.  Garnish  fur- 
ther with  the  cress,  and  set  on  crisp  lettuce  leaves  dipped 
in  French  dressing. 

"  Roll  Mop  "  Salad 

6  strips  of  spiced  pickled  her-  Mayonnaise  or  sour  milk  sal- 
ring  ad  dressing 
3  hard-cooked  eggs  Lettuce  or  cress 

2  tablespoonfuls  minced  green 

peppers  or  pimentoes 

Chop  the  eggs,  add  the  peppers  and  salad  dressing 
barely  to  moisten.  Form  into  six  rolls  as  long  as  the 
herring  is  wide,  and  roll  the  herring  around  them.  Ar- 
range individually  or  on  a  platter  in  cups  made  of  lettuce 
leaves,  and  garnish  each  portion  with  a  little  dressing. 
If  desired,  these  may  be  arranged  on  a  bed  of  shredded 
cabbage,  mixed  with  French  dressing,  and  garnished 
with  parsley. 

EGG  SALADS 

Egg-  and  Tomato  Salad 

3  hard-cooked  eggs  French  dressing 

6  medium-sized  tomatoes  Boiled  salad  dressing 

2  tablespoonfuls  minced  green          Lettuce 
pepper    (if  convenient) 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM       493 

Cut  the  tomatoes  into  sixths,  to  within  a  half  inch  of 
the  bottom.  Pour  over  French  dressing  and  let  stand 
thirty  minutes  to  season.  Then  fill  the  centers  with  the 
egg,  chopped  (reserving  one  yolk)  and  mixed  with  the 
salad  dressing.  Arrange  on  lettuce  nests,  pour  over  the 
French  dressing  that  has  drained  off,  and  garnish  each 
tomato  with  the  egg  yolk,  riced,  and  the  green  pepper. 

Stuffed  Egg  Salad 

6  hard-cooked  eggs  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste 

I  tablespoonful  melted  butter          i  cupful  chopped  stuffed 
i  tablespoonful  tomato  olives 

catsup  Boiled  oil  dressing 

Lettuce 

Cut  the  eggs  lengthwise  in  halves.  Remove  the  yolks, 
mix  with  the  seasonings  and  re-pack.  Press  the  halves 
together,  and  arrange  in  nests  of  crisp  lettuce.  Pour 
two  tablespoon fuls  of  cooked  dressing  over  each  egg,  and 
French  dressing  over  the  lettuce.  Sprinkle  with  the 
olives. 

Green  Pepper  and  Egg  Salad 

4  hard-cooked  eggs  Lettuce 

1  cupful  diced  celery  Cream  salad  dressing 

2  green  peppers 

Separate  the  whites  of  the  eggs  from  the  yolks,  and 
chop  them.  Let  the  celery  stand  in  cold,  salted  water, 
till  crisp.  Remove  the  seeds  and  cores  and  chop  the 
peppers  fine.  Put  into  cold  water,  bring  to  boiling  point 
and  boil  one  minute,  then  drain.  Mix  the  egg,  celery  and 
pepper  together,  bind  with  dressing,  and  dispose  on  let- 
tuce leaves.  Garnish  with  the  egg  yolks  put  through  a 
potato  ricer. 

Stuffed  Egg  and  Pimento  Salad 

6  hard-cooked  eggs  2  chopped  pimentoes,  well- 
i  tablespoonful  tomato  cat-  drained 

sup  i  cupful  tart  lemon  jelly 

i  tablespoonful  flaked  sar-  Lettuce 

dines  Mayonnaise  dressing 
i  tablespoonful  melted  butter(  3  tablespoonfuls  finely- 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste  .    minced  parsley 

Cut  the  eggs  in  halves  lengthwise,  and  remove  the 
yolks.  Mash  them  and  mix  in  the  catsup,  butter,  sar- 


494  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

dines  and  salt  and  pepper.  Re-fill  the  whites  of  the 
eggs,  and  press  them  together,  and  dip  in  the  lemon  jelly, 
which  should  contain  twice  as  much  gelatine  as  usual. 
When  the  gelatine  has  commenced  to  stiffen,  dust  the  eggs 
with  the  chopped  pimento  and  a  little  finely-minced  pars- 
ley. Serve  in  nests  of  lettuce  with  mayonnaise  dressing. 

Egg  Salad,  Plain 

6  hard-cooked  eggs  Boiled  salad  dressing  or  may- 

Ribboned  lettuce  onnaise 

Paprika 

Cut  the  eggs  in  quarters,  lengthwise,  and  arrange  in- 
dividually in  the  shape  of  a  Maltese  Cross  on  beds  of 
ribboned  lettuce.  Put  a  spoonful  of  the  dressing  in  the 
center  and  dust  with  paprika. 

JELLIED  SALADS 

Jellied  May  Fruit  Salad 

6  slices  canned  pineapple  J  cupful  sugar 

I  cupful  mixed  small  straw-  Juice  of  one  lemon 

berries,     bits     of     orange  ii  tablespoonfuls  gelatine 

pulp  and  other  seasonable  Lettuce 

fruits  Mayonnaise   or   honey   salad 

1  cupful  boiling  water  dressing 

Make  a  gelatine  mixture  of  the  lemon  juice,  boiling 
water,  sugar  and  gelatine.  Arrange  the  fruit  in  individ- 
ual moulds,  rubbed  lightly  with  olive  oil,  pour  over  the 
gelatine  mixture,  and  let  set.  Unmould  on  the  sliced 
pineapple,  and  garnish  with  the  lettuce  and  dressing. 

Jellied  Tomato  Salad  or  Tomato  Aspic 

2  cupfuls  tomato  juice  Few  celery  leaves 
i  tablespoonful  minced  onion          I  clove 

Bit  bay  leaf  Few  grains  paprika 

4  teaspoonful  salt  Mayonnaise  or  boiled  dress- 

i  tablespoonful  vinegar  ing 

i  tablespoonful  granulated 
gelatine 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  one-quarter  cupful  cold  water, 
Put  together  all  the  other  ingredients  and  simmer  ten 
minutes.  Add  the  gelatine,  stir  until  dissolved  and  strain 
into  moulds  rubbed  lightly  with  olive  oil.  Serve  plain  on 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM       495 

lettuce  with  the  dressing,  or  in  combination  with  cabbage, 
celery  and  nuts,  or  cucumber  cubes. 

Jellied  Ham,  Celery  and  Tomato  Salad 

i  pint  tomato  aspic  Mayonnaise  or  boiled  dress- 

I  cupful  diced  celery  ing 

i  minced  green  pepper  Lettuce 
I  cupful  diced  ham 

Prepare  the  mixture  for  jellied  tomato  salad,  or  half 
the  mixture  for  tomato  bouillon,  adding  to  a  pint  of  the 
latter,  boiling  hot,  a  level  tablespoonful  of  granulated 
gelatine,  softened  in  cold  water  to  cover.  Let  this  mix- 
ture stand  until  it  begins  to  congeal,  then  stir  in 
the  celery,  ham  and  pepper.  Pour  into  moulds  lightly 
rubbed  with  olive  oil  and  let  stiffen.  Unmould  and  serve 
with  a  garnish  of  lettuce  and  mayonnaise  or  boiled  dress- 
ing. 

Tomato  Tapioca  Salad 

To  one  quart  of  boiling  tomato  bouillon  add  a  scant 
cupful  of  quick-cooking  tapioca.  Boil  gently  until  the 
tapioca  looks  clear  —  about  fifteen  minutes.  Pour  into 
small  moulds  which  have  been  rubbed  lightly  with  olive 
oil  and  let  stiffen.  Unmould  and  serve  with  a  garnish  of 
cress  and  boiled  oil  dressing.  If  desired,  ground  nut 
meats  and  a  little  diced  celery  may  be  added  to  this  salad 
just  before  it  is  poured  into  the  moulds. 

Pimento  Jelly  Salad 

i  tablespoonful  granulated  £  cupful  cabbage,  shredded 

gelatine  fine 

4  cupful  cold  water  3  tablespoonfuls  sugar 

i  cupful  weak  vinegar  i  cupful    diced    celery 

i  cupful  boiling  water  2  pimentoes  cut  fine 

£  teaspoonful  salt  £  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  water  five  minutes,  then  add 
the  vinegar,  lemon  juice,  boiling  water,  sugar  and  salt. 
Strain,  and,  when  beginning  to  set,  add  the  remaining  in- 
gredients. Let  set  again,  chill  and  serve  on  lettuce  or 
cress  with  mayonnaise.  Individual  ring  moulds  may  be 
used  for  Christmas  serving,  with  a  star  of  mayonnaise 
outlined  in  each  ring  of  jelly. 


496  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Jellied  Fruit  Salad 

\  cupful  diced  figs  \  tablespoonful  sugar 

\  cupful  diced  oranges  i  tablespoonful   gelatine   dis- 

i  cupful  diced  celery  solved   in  2  tablespoonfuls 

i  cupful  diced  apples  of  water 

i  cupful  boiling  water  Lettuce 

Few  grains  salt     ,  Mayonnaise  or  boiled  oil 

1  tablespoonful  lemon  juice  dressing 
\  cupful  grape  juice 

Make  a  gelatine  mixture  of  the  water,  lemon  juice, 
grape  juice,  sugar  and  gelatine.  Let  stand  till  partly  set, 
then  stir  in  the  fruit  and  transfer  to  individual  moulds, 
rubbed  lightly  with  olive  oil.  Turn  out  on  the  lettuce 
and  serve  with  mayonnaise  or  a  bland  boiled  dressing. 

Cranberry  Jelly  Salad 

6  tiny  individual  moulds  of          Parsley 

cranberry  jelly   _  Mayonnaise  or  cream  honey 

6  rounds  canned  pineapple  dressing 

Halved    and    seeded    Malaga 

grapes 

Prepare  a  French  dressing  and  marinate  the  pineap- 
ple and  grapes  separately  in  it  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Then  place  a  pineapple  slice  on  each  individual  plate, 
turn  a  mould  of  the  jelly  onto  it,  arrange  the  grapes  about 
the  edge  and  pour  over  any  remaining  dressing.  Garnish 
with  parsley  sprigs  and  pass  the  mayonnaise. 

Cucumber  Jelly  Salad 

2  cucumbers  peeled  and  sliced         2  tablespoonfuls  cold  water 
i  teaspoonful  onion  juice  2  tablespoonfuls  vinegar 

1  teaspoonful  salt  i  teaspoonful  sugar 

Few  grains  pepper  Spinach  green   (optional) 

2  cupfuls  water  i  fresh  cucumber,  cubed 
ij  tablespoonfuls  gelatine  dis-          Mayonnaise  or  boiled  oil 

solved  in  dressing 

Simmer  the  cucumbers  in  the  water  until  soft.  Add 
the  seasonings  and  gelatine  and  strain.  Color,  if  desired, 
with  spinach  green,  and  let  partially  set.  When  begin- 
ning to  congeal,  stir  in  the  diced  cucumber,  and  pour  into 
individual  moulds  rubbed  lightly  with  olive  oil.  Let 
stiffen  and  serve  upon  lettuce,  with  mayonnaise. 


SALADS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM       497 

Celery  and  Fruit  Jelly  Salad 

I  cupful  diced  oranges  2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 

I  cupful  diced  celery  I  tablespoonful  ginger  ale 

I  cupful  diced  apples  I  tablespoonful  sugar 

I  cupful  seeded  Malaga  %  tablespoonful  gelatine  dis- 

grapes  solved  in 

i  cupful  boiling  water  2  tablespoonfuls  water 

Make  a  gelatine  mixture  of  the  last  five  ingredients, 
add  the  fruit,  and  pour  into  individual  moulds,  rubbed 
lightly  with  olive  oil,  to  stiffen.  Serve  on  heart  leaves 
of  lettuce  with  mayonnaise. 

Jellied  Chicken  Salad 

3  cupfuls  bits  cooked  chicken  I  cupful  string  beans 

ii   cupfuls   chicken  broth  %  cupful  peas 

(well  seasoned)  £  cupful  lima  beans 

i  tablespoonful  gelatine  Lettuce 

soaked  in  water  to  cover  Mayonnaise 

I  teaspoonful  lemon  juice  Capers 

1  teaspoonful  onion  juice  ^ 

Combine  the  seasonings  with  the  broth,  heat  it,  add  the 
gelatine  and  the  chicken.  Mould  in  cups  rubbed  lightly 
with  olive  oil  and  serve  on  a  mixture  of  the  vegetables, 
with  a  garnish  of  lettuce,  mayonnaise  and  capers. 

Jellied  Crab  Meat  or  Salmon  Salad 

2  cupfuls  minced  crab  meat          I  cupful  boiled  salad  dress- 
or  salmon  ing 

I  cupful  chicken  or  veal  Salt,  pepper  and  lemon  juice 

stock  to  taste 

I  tablespoonful  granulated  4  green  peppers 

gelatine  Lettuce 

Select  green  peppers  of  even  shape.  Remove  the  tops, 
and  scoop  out  the  cores  and  seeds.  Let  the  gelatine 
stand  in  a  little  cold  stock,  then  add  the  cup  of  stock 
heated  to  boiling  point,  the  seasonings,  and  turn  in  the 
crab  meat.  Fill  the  peppers,  packing  the  mixture  in  well 
and  let  stiffen.  For  serving,  cut  in  slices,  arrange  on  let- 
tuce, and  place  a  cross  of  pimento  strips  on  each  side. 


CHAPTER  XVIII 
SANDWICHES 

ALL   MEASUREMENTS  ARE   LEVEL 

Sandwiches  deserve  to  be  more  generally  used  than  as 
mere  adjuncts  to  the  luncheon  or  picnic  basket  or  acces- 
sories to  afternoon  tea.  Made  of  wholesome  bread, 
spread  with  delicious  butter,  and  filled  with  savory  meat, 
cheese  or  nuts,  the  sandwich  affords  a  perfectly  balanced 
meal  in  itself. 

To  this  end  sandwiches  may  be  divided  into  four 
classes : 

First:  The  open  sandwich  or  canape,  which  has  been 
treated  in  the  chapter  on  Appetizers. 

Second:  Substantial  luncheon  or  supper  sandwiches, 
such  as  Club  Sandwiches. 

Third :  A  dainty  sandwich,  containing  only  a  bite  or 
two,  used  at  teas  and  receptions. 

Fourth:  The  sweet  sandwich,  which  is  sometimes 
used  as  a  dessert  substitute. 

Bread  is  twenty-four  hours  old  before  it  will  slice  well 
for  sandwiches.  In  making  substantial  sandwiches  for 
home  meals  and  for  lunch  boxes,  leave  the  crusts  on  and 
spread  the  slice  out  to  the  edge  with  butter  —  then  the 
crusts  will  surely  be  eaten.  However,  for  dainty  after- 
noon sandwiches,  the  crusts  should  be  removed.  In 
making  sandwiches  with  the  crusts  on,  it  is  easier  to  but- 
ter the  loaf,  slice  by  slice,  before  cutting.  But  in  mak- 
ing daintily-shaped  sandwiches  this  means  a  great  waste 
of  butter,  and  it  is  better  to  shape  the  bread  before 
spreading.  The  butter  should  be  beaten  to  a  cream,  as 
in  making  cake,  arid  in  many  cases  the  sandwich  filling 
may  be  beaten  into  the  butter  to  good  advantage,  thus 
making  necessary  only  one  spreading.  In  case  great 
economy  is  being  practised,  a  good  oleomargarine  may 
replace  butter  in  sandwich-making. 

498 


SANDWICHES  499 

Occasionally,  flavored  butters  are  used  in  sandwiches 
which  are  to  be  served  with  fish,  cocktails  or  salads. 

Sandwiches  may  be  served  on  doily-covered  plates  or 
in  the  newer  sandwich  trays  or  baskets.  However, 
sweet  and  savory  sandwiches  should  not  be  mixed. 
Savory  sandwiches  may  be  garnished  with  radish  roses, 
celery  tips,  heart  leaves  of  lettuce,  etc.,  whereas  sweet 
sandwiches  may  be  appropriately  garnished  with  flowers. 

In  the  following  recipes  many  of  the  substantial  sand- 
wich fillings  may  be  adapted  to  small  and  dainty  sand- 
wiches, by  reducing  the  quantities,  slicing  the  bread  very 
thin,  and  making  sure  that  the  filling  itself  is  very  smooth 
and  pasty.  The  substantial  sandwich  should  be  made 
coarser  in  character,  as  otherwise  it  is  liable  to  be  eaten 
too  quickly.  It  is  necessary  to  have  a  very  smooth  fill- 
ing in  order  to  spread  the  dainty  sandwich  smoothly. 

After  the  sandwiches  are  made  they  may  be  kept 
moist  for  some  time,  if  wrapped  carefully  in  paraffine 
paper  and  stored  in  a  tightly  closed  utensil.  Or,  they 
may  be  kept  even  over  night,  if  wrapped  in  a  napkin 
wrung  out  of  hot  water,  and  then  set  in  a  closed  tin  box 
or  jar. 

Sweet  sandwiches  may  take  the  place  of  cake  at  many 
meals,  and  they  are  a  good  vehicle  for  utilizing  stale 
sponge  or  angel  cake  which  may  be  toasted ;  for  the  util- 
izing of  left-over  frosting,  together  with  crackers,  or  for 
the  making  of  a  quick  sweet  combination,  such  as  dates 
and  saltine  crackers.  These  sweet  sandwiches  are  par- 
ticularly delicious  with  hot  cocoa  or  chocolate,  or  with 
a  fruit  "  ade  "  for  the  piazza  luncheon. 

FLAVORED  BUTTERS 

Lemon  Butter 

£  cupful  butter  Grating  of  lemon  rind 

i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

Cream  all  the  ingredients  together. 

Watercress  Butter 

£  cupful  butter  i  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

6  tablespoonfuls   minced 

watercress 
Cream  all  the  ingredients  together. 


500  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Sardine  Butter 

6  pounded  sardines  Paprika 

i  cupful  butter  I  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

Cream  all  the  ingredients  together. 

Lobster  Butter 

i  cupful  butter  Few  drops  lemon  juice 

£  cupful  pounded   lobster  A  little  paprika 

meat  Lobster  coral  to  color 

Cream  all  the  ingredients  together. 

Chives  Butter 

•k  cupful  butter  3  tablespoonfuls  finely-minced 

chives 
Cream  together  and  use. 

Pimento  Butter 

1  cupful  butter  Few  drops  Italian  vinegar 

2  finely-minced  sifted  pimen- 
toes 

Cream  all  the  ingredients  together. 

Toasted  Sandwiches 

Make  a  filling  of  finely-chopped  cooked  meat,  mois- 
tened with  salad  dressing.  Spread  between  slices  of 
buttered  bread,  press  together  in  pairs,  and  toast  on  each 

side.     Serve  very  hot. 

* 

Toasted  Chicken  Sandwiches 

Cut  the  bread  in  full-sized  slices,  one-quarter  inch 
thick.  Spread  lightly  with  creamed  butter,  then  lay  on 
thin  slices  of  chicken.  Dust  lightly  with  celery  salt. 
Press  the  second  slices  of  bread  in  place  and  toast  on 
either  side,  buttering  the  toasted  surfaces  when  finished. 

Toasted  Salmon  Sandwiches 

Slice  the  bread  one-quarter  inch  thick,  and  allow  two 
full  slices  to  a  person.  Spread  the  bread  lightly  with 
butter,  or  butter  substitute,  and  then  put  in  a  thick  filling 
made  of  finely-minced  canned  salmon,  mixed  with  a  little 
salad  dressing  or  made  mustard.  Put  the  two  slices 
together  (do  not  remove  the  crusts)  and  toast  on  both 
sides.  - 


SANDWICHES  501 

Club  Sandwiches 

Cooked  chicken  Lettuce 

Sliced  tomatoes  Salad  dressing 

Broiled  bacon  Buttered  toast 

Prepare  the  toast,  place  a  lettuce  leaf  on  one  of  the 
slices,  sprinkle  on  a  teaspoonful  of  salad  dressing,  add 
the  sliced  chicken,  put  on  a  little  more  lettuce  and  dress- 
ing, then  the  bacon  and  tomato,  and  more  lettuce  and 
dressing.  Finish  with  the  second  slice  of  toast,  cut  the 
sandwich  cornerwise,  and  serve  at  once,  garnished  with 
tiny  lettuce  leaves  or  parsley. 

Vegetable  Club  Sandwiches 

2  slices  tomato  Buttered  bread,  or 

3  green  peppers,  fried  Buttered  toast 
i  cream  cheese 

Beat  the  cream  cheese  with  a  little  sweet  milk  or 
cream,  until  it  is  smooth ;  then  spread  it  on  the  bread  or 
toast.  Put  on  a  thin  layer  of  sliced  tomatoes,  then  one  of 
fried  green  peppers,  salted. 

Top  with  the  bread  or  toast ;  serve  at  once. 

Mock  Club  Sandwich 

Hard-cooked  eggs  Lettuce 

Boiled  ham  Buttered  toast 

Sliced  tomatoes  Salad  dressing 
Shredded  pimentoes 

Prepare  the  toast,  then  place  a  leaf  of  lettuce  dipped  in 
salad  dressing  on  the  bottom  piece ;  put  a  slice  of  ham  in 
place,  then  the  tomato;  add  a  little  more  dressing,  then 
the  egg  and  pimento.  Finish  with  more  lettuce  and  a 
top  piece  of  toast. 

Baked-Bean  Club  Sandwich 

Toast  and  butter  two  slices  of  entire  wheat,  or  white, 
bread,  and  on  one  of  them  place  a  lettuce  leaf,  covered 
with  boiled  salad  dressing.  Above  the  dressing  spread  a 
generous  filling  of  cold  baked  beans,  cover  with  a  slice 
of  tomato  with  boiled  dressing ;  add  another  lettuce  leaf, 
and  replace  the  second  slice  of  toast.  Garnish  with  a  bit 
of  bacon  and  a  lettuce  leaf. 


502  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Piquant  Sandwiches 

Entire  wheat  bread  Salad  dressing 

Cream  cheese  Stuffed  olives 

Peanut  butter  Lettuce 

Spread  the  bread  thinly  with  a  mixture  of  the  cheese 
and  peanut  butter  creamed  together ;  then  sprinkle  thickly 
with  the  olives,  sliced,  lay  on  a  lettuce  leaf,  spread 
lightly  with  salad  dressing  and  top  with  bread. 

Ham  and  Jelly  Sandwiches 

Slice  cold  boiled  ham  as  thinly  as  possible.  Put  be- 
tween thin  slices  of  buttered  bread,  spreading  one  slice 
with  tart  jelly. 

Chicken  Sandwiches 

Chop  the  chicken  fine  and  add  mayonnaise  to  moisten, 
and,  if  desired,  a  little  finely-chopped  green  pepper,  pim- 
ento or  celery.  Stir  this  mixture  into  butter,  which 
should  be  beaten  to  a  cream,  and  spread  between  slices  of 
white  or  entire  wheat  bread. 

Hot  Bacon  Sandwiches 

Broil,  or  bake,  the  bacon  in  the  oven  until  crisp.  But- 
ter slices  of  bread,  spread  lightly  with  salad  dressing  and 
a  little  chopped  tomato ;  dust  with  salt  and  pepper,  lay  on 
the  sliced  bacon,  set  the  remaining  bread  in  place  and 
serve  at  once. 

Minced  Ham  and  Egg  Sandwiches 

Minced  cooked  ham  Salad  dressing 

Hard-cooked  eggs  Entire  wheat  bread 

Made  mustard 

Rub  equal  parts  of  minced  ham  and  chopped  hard- 
boiled  eggs  to  a  paste.  Add  a  dash  of  mustard  and  well- 
seasoned  mayonnaise,  or  boiled  dressing,  to  moisten. 
Spread  upon  thinly-sliced  bread,  and  press  together  in 
pairs. 

Egg-Salad  Sandwiches 

Allow  one  hard-cooked  egg  to  each  sandwich.  Cut 
rather  soft  bread  in  one-quarter  inch  slices,  and  butter 
lightly.  Reserve  the  yolks  from  three  eggs,  and  chop 
the  balance  with  the  whites.  Mix  and  season  with  salad 


SANDWICHES  503 

dressing  and  spread  thickly  upon  the  bread.  Dip  crisp 
lettuce  leaves  in  French  dressing,  and  place  over  the  egg. 
Spread  lightly  with  salad  dressing  and  set  the  top  slices 
of  bread  in  place.  Rice  the  egg  yolk  over  the  sand- 
wiches, and  serve  at  once. 

Halibut  Salad  Sandwiches 

Flaked  cooked  halibut  Lettuce  or  cress 

Boiled  oil  or  sour  milk  salad         Radish  roses  (optional) 
dressing 

Mix  the  fish  and  dressing  together  to  form  a  paste. 
Use  full-sized  slices  of  bread,  either  white  or  entire 
wheat,  and  spread  them  lightly  with  creamed  butter. 
Spread  one-half  the  slices  with  the  salad  mixture,  lay  on 
the  lettuce  or  cress,  the  leaves  of  which  should  be  dipped 
in  French  dressing.  Top  with  corresponding  slices  of 
bread  and  serve  at  once. 

Olive  and  Egg  Sandwiches 

3  hard-cooked  eggs  Buttered  white  bread 

18  stuffed  olives  Mayonnaise 

Chop  the  eggs  fine,  add  the  olives  minced,  and  moisten 
to  a  paste  with  mayonnaise.  Spread  between  slices  of 
buttered  bread. 

Shrimp-Salad  Sandwiches 

I  cupful  shrimps  Mayonnaise  or  boiled  dress- 

i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice  ing  to  moisten. 

1  cupful  chopped,   stuffed 
olives 

Mince  the  shrimps  very  fine ;  add  the  olives,  lemon 
juice  and  mayonnaise  to  moisten;  put  between  slices  of 
buttered  bread,  or  spread  on  single  slices  and  leave 
uncovered,  sprinkling  with  the  chopped  olives. 

Tart  Sardine  Sandwiches 

6  sardines  pounded  to  a  paste          i  tablespoonful  olive  oil 

2  sour  pickles  2  tablespoonfuls  vinegar 

I  sprig  parsley  Yolks  2  hard-cooked  eggs 

I  teaspoonful  made  mustard  Salt  and  pepper 

Rye  bread  and  butter 

Spread  thin  slices  of  the  bread  with  butter,  then 
spread  corresponding  slices  with  a  mixture  of  all  the 
ingredients,  and  press  together. 


504  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Banana-Salad  Sandwiches 

Stale  white  bread  Thinly-sliced  banana 

Mayonnaise  Shredded  lettuce 

Cut  the  bread  in  finger  lengths  and  spread  lightly  with 
the  butter.  Mix  the  lettuce  with  the  mayonnaise,  and 
place  on  half  of  the  slices  of  bread ;  place  sliced  bananas 
on  the  other  half,  and  press  together  in  pairs. 

Welsh  Rarebit  Sandwiches 

Slice  the  bread ;  spread  with  butter,  and  fill  with  cold 
Welsh  rarebit,  made  with  milk,  and  crisp  lettuce  leaves, 
marinated  in  French  dressing.  Rye  or  entire  wheat  bread 
is  preferable  to  white  in  these  sandwiches. 

Lettuce  Sandwiches 

Lettuce  sandwiches  may  be  made  in  a  variety  of  ways. 
The  most  satisfying  is  to  shred  the  lettuce,  then  crisp  it 
on  ice.  Slice  the  bread  thin,  and  spread  with  butter  that 
has  been  creamed.  Then  toss  the  lettuce  in  French 
dressing  that  is  well  seasoned,  put  between  the  slices,  and 
serve  at  once,  before  the  lettuce  wilts. 

Spinach  Sandwiches 

White  bread  Stiff  mayonnaise 

ii  cupfuls  cooked  spinach  Few  grains  nutmeg 

Creamed  butter  Salt  and  cayenne 

Press  all  the  juice  from  cooked  spinach  and  chop  the 
vegetable  fine.  Season  with  salt  and  cayenne,  and  a  bit 
of  nutmeg  and  moisten  with  the  mayonnaise.  Cut  the 
bread  very  thin,  and  spread  lightly  with  the  butter. 
Spread  the  spinach  rather  thick  on  one  slice  of  bread, 
cover  with  the  second  slice,  add  more  spinach  and  then  a 
third  slice  of  bread.  Let  stand  in  a  cool  place  till  firm, 
then  cut  in  slices  like  a  cake.  The  result  will  be  a  green 
and  white  sandwich. 

Tea-Room  Sandwiches 

Sliced  ham  White  bread 

bhced  tongue  Butter 

bliced  chicken  Mayonnaise 

Chopped  olives  Shredded  lettuce 

Remove  the  crusts  from  the  bread,  which  has  been  cut 


SANDWICHES  505 

a  scant  one-fourth  inch  thick.  Spread  the  slices  lightly 
with  butter,  creamed,  and  lay  on  a  small  piece  each  of 
ham,  chicken  and  tongue.  Add  a  layer  of  chopped 
olives,  then  a  little  mayonnaise,  and  top  with  correspond- 
ing slices  of  bread,  buttered.  Serve  individually  with  a 
garnish  of  a  handful  of  shredded  lettuce,  and  a  little 
mayonnaise  on  top,  surmounted  with  an  olive.  If  de- 
sired, the  bread  may  be  toasted  for  these  sandwiches. 

Onion  and  Celery  Sandwiches 

Fry  the  necessary  amount  of  sliced  onions.  Butter 
slices  of  bread.  For  each  sandwich  spread  one  slice  with 
onion  and  the  other  with  finely-minced  celery,  mixed 
with  salad  dressing.  Dip  lettuce  leaves  in  French  dress- 
ing, and  put  between  the  slices. 

Heart  Sandwiches 

Boston  brown  bread,  or  Salad  dressing 

Entire  wheat  bread  Whole  pecan  nuts 

Cream  cheese 

Cut  the  bread  in  heart  shapes.  Cream  the  cheese  till 
soft  with  a  little  salad  dressing.  Spread  on  the  bread, 
but  do  not  put  the  slices  together.  Instead,  press  on  a 
design  of  the  pecan  nuts,  and  serve  prettily  arranged  on 
a  doily-covered  plate. 

Green  Pepper  and  Onion  Sandwiches 

Stale  white  bread  Creamed  butter 

3  sweet   green   peppers  French  dressing 

\  Bermuda  onion 

Remove  the  seeds  and  cores  from  the  peppers,  and 
chop  the  peppers  very  fine  with  the  onion.  Drain  off  the 
juice,  then  moisten  with  dressing  and  let  stand  on  the  ice 
till  very  cold.  Cut  the  bread  thin  in  fancy  shapes,  spread 
with  creamed  butter,  and  put  together  with  the  pepper 
mixture.  Serve  with  Welsh  rarebit. 

Celery  Sandwiches 

Stale  entire  wheat  bread  Boiled  dressing 

Crisp  celery  Creamed  butter 

Cut  the  bread  in  thin,  narrow  strips  and  spread  lightly 
with  the  butter,  creamed.  Chop  the  celery  very  fine, 


506  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

mix  with  salad  dressing,  and  spread  on  half  of  the  slices 
of  bread.  Save  the  dainty,  white  celery  tips  and  split 
the  round  stems  so  they  will  lie  flat.  Place  these  upon 
slices  of  bread,  so  that  the  leaves  will  show  beyond  the 
edge,  and  top  with  corresponding  slices. 

Savory  Sandwiches 

\  cupful  cold  lamb  or  veal  I  teaspoonf ul  made  mustard 

2  tablespoonf  uls  grated  cheese  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Lettuce  leaves  dipped  in  Cream  to  moisten 

French  dressing  Bread  and  butter 

Mix  together  the  meat,  cheese,  mustard  and  season- 
ings and  cream  until  smooth.  Spread  buttered  bread 
with  this  mixture,  lay  on  lettuce  leaves,  and  set  on  cor- 
responding slices.  Press  together  and  serve  at  once. 

Cheese  and  Nut  Sandwiches 

\  cupful   butter,   creamed  i  cupful  nut  meats,  chopped 

i  cupful  grated  cheese  fine 

i  teaspoonful  paprika  Graham  or  brown  bread 

Mix  the  ingredients  together  in  the  order  given. 
Spread  on  thin  slices  of  graham  or  brown  bread,  cut  in 
desired  shapes,  and  put  together  in  pairs.  A  nasturtium 
leaf  is  a  piquant  addition  to  this  type  of  sandwich.  In 
this  case  they  should  be  cut  round. 

Pimento  Sandwiches 

1  Neufchatel  cheese  Peanut  butter 

2  pimentoes  Stale  entire  wheat  bread 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste  White  bread 
Mayonnaise  to  moisten 

Chop  the  pimentoes  fine,  and  add  to  the  cheese.  Mix 
well,  season "  and  moisten  with  mayonnaise.  Cut  the 
bread  in  desired  shapes,  allowing  one  slice  of  entire  wheat 
and  one  slice  of  white  bread  to  a  sandwich.  Spread  one 
slice  with  peanut  butter,  and  the  other  with  the  cheese 
mixture.  Press  together  in  pairs  and  serve. 

Cheese  and  Tomato  Sandwiches 

Cut  rounds  of  white  bread,  spread  with  cream  cheese 
and  s'alad  dressing,  mixed,  place  a  thin  slice  of  tomato  on 
top,  and  cover,  or  not,  as  desired,  with  a  second  slice  of 
bread. 


SANDWICHES  507 

Strawberry  Sandwiches 

Bread  Powdered  sugar 

Creamed  butter  Cinnamon. 

Sliced  strawberries 

Butter  lightly  thin  slices  of  white  bread.  Cover  with 
sliced  strawberries,  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar  and  a 
little  cinnamon,  and  set  the  top  slices  in  place.  Serve  at 
once. 

Banana  and  Honey  Sandwiches 

2  bananas  3  tablespoonfuls  thick  cream 

2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice          White  or  entire  wheat  bread 
Honey 

Slice  the  bananas  and  marinate  in  the  lemon  juice. 
Spread  the  white  bread  with  the  cream  and  honey  mixed. 
Cover  one-half  the  slices  with  the  bananas,  and  press  on 
the  top  slices. 

Pineapple  Sandwiches 

Cut  stale  entire  wheat  bread  in  very  thin  slices,  then  in 
finger  lengths.  Spread  generously  with  creamed  butter, 
and  then  with  pineapple  marmalade.  Put  together  in 
pairs,  and  bake  slowly  till  delicately  browned. 

Cranberry  Sandwiches 

Cranberry  conserve  or  jelly  Entire  wheat  bread 

Cream  cheese  Creamed  butter 

Butter  the  bread  lightly,  then  spread  half  the  slices 
with  cream  cheese,  and  the  rest  with  the  conserve. 
Press  two  of  each  kind  together,  and  cut  in  any  desired 
shape. 

Noisette  Cheese  Sandwiches 

Cut  stale  nut  bread  into  very  thin  slices ;  spread  with 
cream  cheese  and  butter  beaten  together  and  put  together 
with  orange  marmalade ;  cut  into  finger  lengths  for  serv- 
ing. 

Fruit  Cheese  Sandwiches 

Stoned  prunes  Brazil  nuts  or  pecans 

Seedless   raisins  English  walnuts 

Dates  Neufchatel  cheese 

Figs  Entire  wheat  bread 
Orange  juice 

Wash  equal  parts  of  prunes,  raisins,  dates  and  figs; 


508  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

prepare  half  as  many  Brazil  nuts,  pecans  and  English 
walnuts.  Put  through  a  food  chopper  —  first  a  little 
fruit,  then  a  few  nuts ;  add  a  little  orange  juice,  knead 
well,  and  pack  into  jelly  glasses  or  baking  powder  tins, 
and  let  stand  aside  in  a  cool  place.  When  wanted  for 
use,  set  the  pan  in  hot  water,  loosen  the  sides  with  a  knife 
and  take  out  the  mixture.  Cut  thin  and  place  between 
pieces  of  entire  wheat  bread,  spread  with  Neufchatel 
cheese. 

Raisin  and  Peanut  Butter  Sandwiches 

Measure  equal  quantities  of  raisins  and  peanut  butter. 
Put  the  raisins  through  the  medium-fine  knife  of  the 
food  chopper,  and  blend  with  the  peanut  butter  and  a 
little  plain  butter.  Spread  between  slices  of  entire  wheat 
bread. 

Melba  Sandwiches 

Prepare  sandwiches  of  full  slices  of  white  bread 
spread  lightly  with  creamed  butter,  and  then  with  orange 
marmalade..  Toast  quickly,  butter  and  cut  in  triangles. 
Serve  very  hot. 

Orange  Sandwiches 

2  tablespoonfuls  orange  Butter  thin  crackers 

juice  About  i  cupful  sifted  confec- 

1  teaspoonful  lemon  juice  tioner's  sugar 

Mix  together  the  fruit  juices.  Stir  in  the  confec- 
tioner's sugar  and  mix  thoroughly.  Heat  butter  thin 
crackers  in  the  oven  till  crisp,  cool  and  spread  lightly 
with  the  filling.  Press  together  in  pairs. 

Sweet  Chocolate  Sandwiches 

Stale   white   bread  I  cupful  chopped  walnut 

2  tablespoonfuls  hot  water  meats 

ij  tablespoonfuls  cocoa  1  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Confectioner's  sugar 

Make  an  ordinary  confectioner's  icing  from  the  water, 
cocoa,  sugar  and  vanilla,  and  stir  in  the  walnuts.  Cut 
the  bread  in  thin  slices,  shape  and  spread  lightly  with  the 
butter.  Put  together  with  the  chocolate  filling. 


SANDWICHES  509 

Date  Sandwiches 

12  saltine  crackers  12  dates 

i  Neufchatel  cheese  I  tablespoonful  butter 

Cream  together  the  cheese  and  butter,  and  spread  the 
crackers  lightly.  Split  the  dates,  removing  the  pits,  and 
use  two  dates  as  a  rilling  for  each  sandwich. 

Date  and  Ginger  Sandwiches 

i  cupful  stoned  dates  Ginger  syrup  and  lemon  juice 
i  cupful  chopped  English  to  moisten 

walnut  meats  Entire  wheat  bread 

I  cupful  minced  preserved  Creamed  butter 

ginger 

Combine  the  ingredients.  Butter  entire  wheat  bread 
lightly,  and  spread  with  the  fruit  mixture.  Cut  in  finger 
lengths.  If  desired,  fingers  of  sponge  cake  may  be  used. 

Sponge  Cake  Sandwiches 

Cut  sponge  cake  into  thin  slices,  and  put  together  with 
raspberry  jam;  cut  in  triangles,  like  bread  and  butter 
sandwiches. 

Orange  Club  Sandwiches 

Toast  slices  of  stale  sponge  cake,  or  plain  cake.  Fill 
with  finely-sliced  and  sweetened  orange,  mixed  with 
cocoanut,  and  a  few  shredded  Maraschino  cherries,  if 
convenient,  and  serve  with  a  garnish  of  nuts  and  marsh- 
mallows. 


CHAPTER  XIX 
DESSERTS 

ALL   MEASUREMENTS   ARE   LEVEL 

We  are  apt  to  think  of  desserts  more  as  accessories 
than  as  foods,  and  it  is  because  of  this  that  the  sweet, 
which  is  so  often  tacked  on  at  the  end  of  a  meal,  fre- 
quently upsets  the  digestion. 

All  desserts  have  a  food  value  which  may  be  definitely 
classified  according  to  the  predominating  element  of 
which  the  dessert  is  made.  For  instance,  a  baked  cus- 
tard which  is  composed  largely  of  eggs  and  milk  is  a 
protein,  or  muscle-making,  dessert,  although  it  of  course 
contains  quick  energy  in  the  form  of  sugar,  and  fat  from 
the  egg  yolks  and  the  milk.  Desserts  which  are  largely 
made  up  of  starch,  like  tapioca,  corn  starch  puddings, 
etc.,  may  be  roughly  classified  as  starches.  Those  con- 
taining a  goodly  percentage  of  fat,  as  suet  pudding,  may 
be  known  as  fatty  desserts,  whereas  gelatines  may  be 
classified  as  sweets  and  mineral  desserts. 

The  dessert  to  be  chosen  to  supplement  the  meal  must 
be  selected  with  this  idea  in  mind.  A  careful  study  of 
the  chapter  on  the  Balanced  Ration  will  assist  in  the 
classification  pf  these  desserts.  It  should  be  kept  in 
mind  that  acid  desserts,  as  a  fruit  gelatine,  should  sup- 
plement meals  rich  in  fat,  or  those  containing  fish. 

Cold  desserts  may  be  used  when  the  balance  of  the 
meal  has  been  hot,  and  hot  desserts  will  give  the  tem- 
perature balance  to  a  meal  that  has  largely  been  cold. 
For  this  reason  it  is  more  satisfying  to  serve  a  simple  hot 
pudding,  as  Baked  Indian  Pudding,  rather  than  the  pro- 
verbial sauce  and  cake  at  the  end  of  a  cold  supper. 

Jackson  Junkets 

I  quart  rich  milk  I  tablespoonful  water 

4  tablespoonfuls  sugar  A  little  salt 

i  junket  tablet,  dissolved  in          Grated  nutmeg 


DESSERTS  511 

Warm  the  milk  with  the  salt,  nutmeg  and  sugar  until 
tepid;  add  the  junket  tablet  and  pour  the  mixture  imme- 
diately into  a  serving  dish  (preferably  glass)  to  solidify. 
Just  before  serving  dot  with  stiffly-whipped  cream, 
sweetened  and  flavored  with  grated  apple  or  raspberry 
jam,  or  serve  without  cream,  using  either  fresh  or  canned 
fruit  instead  for  a  sauce. 

Irish  Moss  Blanc  Mange 

I  scant  half-cupful  Irish  i£  teaspoonfuls  vanilla  or  or- 

nioss  ange  extract 

4  cupfuls  milk  4  tablespoonfuls  sugar 

i  teaspoonful  salt 

k  Rinse  the  moss,  then  soak  it  for  fifteen  minutes  in 
vv^ater  to  cover,  look  it  over  carefully,  rinse  again,  add  to 
the  milk  and  cook  in  a  double  boiler  for  thirty  minutes. 
Add  the  salt  and  sugar,  straining  through  a  fine  sieve ; 
flavor,  and  fill  the  mould,  which  should  be  rinsed  in  cold 
water.  Chill,  and  serve  with  any  fresh  or  canned  fruit 
and  cream. 


CORN  STARCH  DESSERTS 

Plain  Corn  Starch  Pudding 

3  cupfuls  scalded  milk  6  tablespoonfuls  sugar 

i  cupful  cold  water  i  teaspoonful  'salt 

i  cupful  corn  starch  I  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Mix  the  corn  starch,  sugar  and  salt  together,  dilute 
with  the  cold  water,  and  add  to  the  scalded  milk,  stir- 
ring constantly  until  it  is  thick.  Then  set  over  hot 
water  and  cook  thirty  minutes.  Add  the  flavoring,  pour 
into  a  mould  wet  in  cold  water,  and  chill. 

White  Corn  Starch  Pudding 

3  cupfuls  scalded  milk  i  cupful  cold  water 

\  cupful  corn  starch  I  teaspoonful  vanilla  or  or- 

6  tablespoonfuls  sugar  ange  extract 

\  teaspoonful  salt  2  egg  whites 

Mix  together  the  corn  starch,  sugar  and  salt,  and 
dilute  with  the  cold  water.  Add  to  the  scalded  milk  and 
cook  directly  over  a  slow  heat  till  thick,  stirring  con- 
stantly. Then  place  over  hot  water  and  cook  thirty 


512  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

minutes,  stirring  occasionally.  Remove  from  the  heat 
and  pour  slowly  onto  the  egg  whites,  beaten  very  stiff. 
Beat  well,  turn  into  a  mould  or  custard  cups  dipped  in 
cold  water,  and  chill.  Serve  with  sugared  raspberries, 
strawberries  or  peaches,  or  with  a  caramel,  chocolate  or 
coffee  nut  sauce,  when  fruit  is  not  at  hand. 

Chocolate  Corn  Starch  Pudding 

Make  according  to  the  recipe  for  White  Corn  Starch 
Pudding,  adding  two  ounces  (squares)  of  shaved  choco- 
late to  the  milk  while  it  is  scalding.  Flavor  with  vanilla. 
II  desired,  the  egg  whites  may  be  omitted. 

Coffee  Corn  Starch  Pudding  * 

Observe  the  proportions  as  given  in  White  Corn 
Starch  Pudding;  scald  2j  tablespoonfuls  of  coffee  in  the 
milk,  strain  through  cheescloth,  and  complete  the  cook- 
ery as  directed. 

Lemon  Corn  Starch  Pudding 

\  cupful    corn    starch  i  teaspoon ful  salt 

1  cupful  cold  water  i  cupful  lemon  juice 

2  cupfuls  boiling  water  Whites  2  eggs 
i  cupful  sugar 

Blend  the  corn  starch,  salt  and  sugar  with  cold  water ; 
pour  into  this  the  boiling  water  and  cook  for  fifteen  min- 
utes, then  for  thirty  minutes  in  a  double  boiler,  stirring 
often.  Cool  a  little,  add  the  lemon  juice  and  pour  onto 
the  beaten  egg  whites,  stirring  briskly.  Mould  in  indi- 
vidual cups,  and  serve  with  custard  sauce. 

Strawberry  Corn  Starch  Pudding 

\  cupful  corn  starch  i  teaspoonful  salt 

i  cupful  strawberries  and  2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 

pulp  2  egg  whites 

2-  cupfuls  boiling  water  I  cupful  sugar 

Blend  the  corn  starch  with  the  salt,  sugar  and  straw- 
berry juice.  Pour  onto  this  the  boiling  water,  let  boil  up 
once,  then  cook  thirty  minutes  over  hot  water.  Cool  a 
little,  add  the  lemon  juice,  then  pour  the  mixture  slowly 
onto  the  stiffly-beaten  egg  whites.  Beat  briskly ;  mould 
in  individual  cups  dipped  in  cold  water  and  serve  with 
sliced  and  sugared  strawberries. 


DESSERTS  513 

Raspberry  Corn  Starch  Pudding 

Follow  the  proportions  and  directions  given  in  Straw- 
berry Corn  Starch  Pudding,  substituting  raspberries  for 
the  strawberries. 

Rhubarb  Corn  Starch  Pudding 

Follow  the  proportions  given  in  Strawberry  Corn 
Starch  Pudding,  substituting  three  cupfuls  of  stewed  or 
baked  rhubarb  for  the  strawberry  juice  and  the  boiling 
water,  and  increasing  the  sugar  to  one  cupful. 

Blueberry  Mculd 

3  cupfuls  stewed  blueberries,         i  cupful  corn  starch  mixed  to 

well  sweetened  a  paste  with 

Grating  lemon  rind  I  cupful  cold  water 

Heat  the  blueberries  to  boiling  point,  add  the  corn 
starch,  and  after  the  mixture  has  boiled  cook  over  hot 
water  for  thirty  minutes.  Pour  into  individual  wet 
moulds,  and  let  stand  till  very  cold.  Serve  with  whipped 
cream,  flavored  with  a  little  lemon  extract. 

Blackberry  Mould 

Follow  the  proportions  given  in  Blueberry  Mould,  sub- 
stituting blackberries  for  blueberries ;  strain  the  black- 
berries after  stewing. 

Soft  Lemon  Fruit  Pudding 

2  tablespoonfuls  corn  starch  Juice  ii  lemons 

i  tablespoonful  butter  2  cupfuls  boiling  water 

£  cupful  sugar  I  sliced  banana 

Few  grains  salt  i  cupful  cooked  figs,  diced 

Mix  together  the  corn  starch,  butter,  sugar  and  salt. 
Add  the  water,  boiling  rapidly,  and  stir  briskly  until  the 
mixture  looks  clear;  then  set  over  hot  water  to  cook 
thirty  minutes  longer.  Half  cool,  add  the  lemon  juice, 
and  pour  over  the  fruit  in  a  glass  bowl. 

Thickened  Prunes 

1  cupful  prunes  ii  tablespoonfuls  corn  starch 

2  cupfuls  boiling  water  A  few  shavings  of  orange 
i  cupful  sugar  rind 

Few  grains  salt  i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 


514  MRS.  ALLEN'S.  COOK  BOOK 

Wash  the  prunes  and  soak  twelve  hours  in  2  cupfuls 
of  cold  water.  Add  the  orange  rind  and  salt,  and  cook 
the  prunes  until  nearly  tender.  Add  the  sugar  and  finish 
cooking.  Skim  out  the  prunes  from  the  syrup.  There 
should  be  i^  cupfuls  of  liquid  left;  if  there  is  not,  add 
boiling  water  to  make  up  the  balance.  Thicken  with  the 
corn  starch,  dissolved  in  a  little  cold  water,  and  let  boil 
up  once.  Add  the  lemon  juiee;  remove  the  stones  from 
prunes,  add  the  prune  syrup  to  the  fruit  and  serve  hot  on 
French  toast,  or  ice  cold  with  whipped  cream. 


CUSTARD  DESSERTS 

Soft  Cooked  Custard  I 

2  egg  yolks  3  cupfuls  scalded  milk 

2  tablespoonfuls  corn  starch  I  teaspoonful   flavoring 

i  cupful  sugar  i  teaspoonful  salt 

Scald  the  milk,  mix  together  the  egg  yolks,  salt,  corn 
starch  and  sugar  and  pour  the  scalded  milk  into  this  mix- 
ture. Return  to  a  double  boiler  and  cook  until  it  coats 
the  spoon,  stirring  frequently.  Reserve  the  egg  whites 
to  use  in  a  cake  or  whip.  When  the  custard  begins  to 
cool,  add  the  flavoring. 

Soft  Cooked  Custard  II 

i  pint  scalded  milk  3  egg  yolks 

1  cupful  sugar  I  teaspoonful  flavoring 
Salt 

Scald  the  milk;  beat  the  sugar,  salt  and  egg  yolks  to- 
gether until  blended.  Pour  into  this  the  scalded  milk. 
Cook  in  a  double  boiler,  stirring  constantly,  until  it  coats 
the  spoon.  Remove  at  once  and,  when  cold,  add  the 
flavoring.  If  it  should  be  cooked  too  much  or  "curdle," 
beat  hard  with  an  egg-beater. 

Floating  Island 

4  cupfuls  milk  2  egg  whites 

2  egg  yolks  I  teaspoonful  salt 

3  tablespoonfuls  flour  \  teaspoonful  vanilla 

\  cupful  sugar  \  tablespoonful  powdered 

sugar 

Mix  the  egg  yolks,  flour,  sugar  and  salt  together  in  a 


DESSERTS  515 

bowl,  add  the  scalded  milk,  slowly,  return  to  a  double 
boiler  and  cook  until  it  coats  the  spoon,  stirring  con- 
stantly ;  when  cool,  add  the  flavoring  and  pour  into  a 
dish.  Beat  the  egg  whites  light,  and  add  the  powdered 
sugar.  Beat  again,  place  on  the  custard  by  spoonfuls  to 
form  "  islands,"  or  drop  the  islands  in  boiling  water  and 
poach  them,  if  the  dessert  is  to  stand  any  length  of  time. 

Chocolate  Floating  Island 

Observe  the  proportions  given  in  the  recipe  for  Float- 
ing Island,  adding  2  ounces  (squares)  of  shaved  choco- 
late to  the  milk  while  it  is  scalding;  sprinkle  the 
"  islands  "  with  shredded  cocoanut. 

Raspberry  Float 

Follow  the  recipe  for  Floating  Island.  When  beat- 
ing the  egg  whites,  add  f  cupful  of  crushed  raspberries 
and  3  cupful  of  powdered  sugar.  Heap  this  float  upon 
ithe  custard. 

Strawberry  Float 

Observe  the  directions  given  for  making  Raspberry 
Float,  substituting  strawberries  for  the  raspberries. 

Banana  Float 

Follow  the  directions  for  making  Floating  Island,  be- 
strewing the  "  islands "  with  very  finely-sliced  bananas 
just  before  serving. 

Orange  Rice  Custard 

3  cupfuls  milk  %  cupful  boiled  rice 

2  eggs  i  teaspoonful  orange  juice 

i  teaspoonful  salt  Candied  orange  peel 

4  cupful  sugar 

Scald  a  few  pieces  of  plain  orange  peel  with  the  milk 
and  rice.  Beat  the  egg  yolks  with  the  sugar  and  salt; 
remove  the  orange  peel,  add  the  sugar  mixture  to  the 
milk,  and  stir  over  hot  water  until  thickened.  Then  take 
from  the  heat  and  chill.  Just  before  serving  beat  the 
egg  whites  stiff,  add  a  few  grains  of  salt,  a  tablespoonful 
of  powdered  sugar  and  the  orange  juice.  Pile  on  the 
custard,  and  sprinkle  lightly  with  candied  orange  peel. 


5i6  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Soft  Caramel  Custard 

3  ctipfuls  milk,  scalded  i  teaspoonful  salt 

3  eggs  slightly  beaten  \  teaspoonful  vanilla 

i  cupful  sugar 

Scald  the  milk;  melt  the  sugar  in  a  frying  pan  till 
light  brown,  stirring  constantly.  Add  J  cupful  of  boil- 
ing water,  and,  when  dissolved  again,  pour  into  the  milk. 
Then  pour  the  hot  mixture  onto  the  beaten  eggs,  return 
to  the  double  boiler  and  cook  until  it  coats  the  spoon, 
stirring  constantly.  Add  the  salt  and  flavoring  when 
cool.  Serve  very  cold  in  glass  cups,  topping  each  serv- 
ing with  flavored  whipped  cream  sprinkled  with  toasted 
shredded  almonds  if  convenient. 

Plain  Baked  Custard 

3  cupfuls  scalded  milk  i  teaspoonful  salt 

3  eggs  }  teaspoonful  flavoring 

6  tablespoonfuls  sugar 

Scald  the  milk ;  mix  together  the  eggs,  sugar,  salt  and 
flavoring  in  the  custard  dish.  Pour  onto  this  the 
scalded  milk,  set  in  a  pan  of  hot  water,  and  bake,  until 
firm,  in  a  moderate  oven.  Test  with  a  silver  knife;  if, 
after  inserting,  the  knife  comes  out  perfectly  clean,  the 
custard  is  done.  It  will  take  about  thirty-five  minutes ; 
or  it  may  be  cooked  in  custard  cups  in  the  oven,  or 
steamer  top,  in  twenty  minutes. 

Baked  Chocolate  Custard 

3  cupfuls  milk  £  cupful  sugar 

3  ounces  (squares)  chocolate          i  teaspoonful  salt 

4  egg  yolks  I  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Shave  the  chocolate,  add  to  the  milk  and  cook  over 
hot  water  until  the  chocolate  is  dissolved,  stirring  fre- 
quently. Beat  the  egg  yolks  with  the  sugar,  add  to  the 
milk  mixture,  turn  in  the  flavoring  and  salt,  pour  into  the 
custard  cups,  set  in  a  pan,  surround  with  hot  water  and 
bake  till  almost  "  set."  Remove  from  the  oven,  and  cover 
with  a  meringue  made  of  three  of  the  remaining  egg 
whites,  3  tablespoonfuls  powdered  sugar,  and  a  few 
drops  of  vanilla.  Bake  slowly  ten  minutes  longer. 


DESSERTS  517 

Baked  Caramel  Custard 

4  cup fuls  scalded  milk  \  teaspoonful  salt 

5  eggs  I  teaspoonful  vanilla 
I  cupful  sugar 

Caramelize  half  the  sugar  until  light  brown.  Add  this 
gradually  to  the  milk,  being  careful  that  the  latter  does 
not  bubble  up  and  go  over.  As  soon  as  the  sugar  is 
melted  in  the  milk,  pour  the  mixture  onto  the  eggs  (and 
remaining  sugar),  slightly-beaten  together.  Add  the  salt 
and  flavoring,  then  strain  into  a  buttered  mould.  Bake 
in  a  pan  of  hot  water  in  a  slow  oven,  until  a  knife,  when 
inserted,  will  come  out  clean.  This  may  be  poured  into 
custard  cups  and  set  in  a  steamer  top  to  cook  over  hot 
water.  Then  the  custards  will  be  done  when  firm,  in 
about  fifteen  minutes. 

Baked  Custard  Renversee 

1  cupful  sugar,  caramelized  I  quart  milk 

\  cupful  sugar  (additional)  i  teaspoonful  salt 

5  eggs  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Caramelize  the  cupful  of  sugar  and  immediately  turn 
into  a  three-pint  mould.  Tip  the  mould  quickly  from 
side  to  side,  coating  it  thoroughly  with  the  caramel. 
Scald  the  milk,  beat  the  eggs  slightly  and  add  to  them 
the  sugar,  salt  and  vanilla;  combine  with  the  milk,  pour 
into  the  mould  and  set  in  a  pan;  surround  with  boil- 
ing water  and  bake  slowly  about  an  hour,  or  until  the 
custard  is  "  set."  When  very  cold,  unmould  and  sprin- 
kle with  chopped,  browned  almonds. 

Baked  Coffee  Custard 

3  cup  fuls  milk  3  eggs 

2  tablespoonfuls  ground  i  cupful  granulated  sugar 
coffee  \  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Scald  the  coffee  in  the  milk,  and  strain  through  a  cloth. 
Beat  the  eggs,  sugar  and  vanilla  together,  combine  with 
the  milk,  pour  into  custard  cups  or  a  mould,  and  steam 
until  firm  in  the  center,  or  bake  in  a  pan  of  hot  water 
in  a  moderate  oven.  Serve  ice  cold,  with  caramel  nut 
sauce,  a  fruit  sauce,  or  whipped  cream. 


518  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Baked  Cocoanut  Custard 

3  cupfuls  milk  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

4  cupful  cocoanut  3  eggs 

4  tablespoonful  corn  starch  6  tablespoonfuls  sugar 

Few  grains  salt 

Scald  the  cocoanut  with  the  milk,  then  thicken  with 
the  corn  starch  dissolved  in  i  tablespoonful  of  cold  water. 
Beat  together  the  eggs,  sugar,  salt  and  flavoring;  com- 
bine with  the  milk  and  pour  into  custard  cups.  Set  in  a 
pan  of  hot  water  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  the 
custard  is  "set" 


CEREAL  AND  BREAD  DESSERTS 

Fig  Bread  Pudding 

3  cupfuls  stale  bread  crumbs  4  cupful  sugar 

24  cupfuls  milk  Grated  rind  and  juice  of  4 

2"  eggs  lemon 

1  teaspoonful   salt  ii  cupfuls  chopped  figs 

Soak  the  crumbs  and  figs  in  the  milk,  till  softened. 
Add  the  other  ingredients,  including  the  eggs,  unbeaten, 
pour  into  a  buttered  baking  dish,  set  in  a  pan  of  hot 
water,  and  bake  for  an  hour  and  a  half  in  a  moderate 
oven.  Serve  with  hard  sauce. 

Chocolate  Bread  Pudding 

2  cupfuls  stale  bread  crumbs          f  cupful  sugar 

4  cupfuls  scalded  milk  2  eggs 

2  ounces' (squares)  chocolate          i  teaspoonful  salt 

1  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Soak  the  bread  in  the  milk  for  thirty  minutes.  Melt 
the  chocolate  over  hot  water;  add  some  of  the  hot  milk 
until  it  can  be  poured,  then  combine  with  the  bread 
crumbs.  Beat  together  the  salt,  sugar,  vanilla  and  eggs. 
Add  this  to  the  pudding  mixture,  pour  into  a  buttered 
dish,  surround  with  hot  water,  and  bake  an  hour  in  a 
moderate  oven.  Serve  with  cream  or  lemon,  hard  or 
vanilla  sauce. 

Lemon  Pudding 

2  cupfuls  stale  bread  crumbs          2  eggs 

3  cupfuls  milk  I  cupful   sugar 
i  tablespoonful  flour  Few  grains  salt 

I  tablespoonful  butter  Juice  and  rind  i  lemon 


DESSERTS  519 

Scald  the  crumbs  and  butter  in  the  milk.  Beat  to- 
gether the  eggs,  sugar  and  lemon,  and  add  to  the  milk 
mixture ;  pour  into  a  buttered  baking  dish,  surround  with 
hot  water  and  bake  until  firm  in  the  center.  Serve  with 
canned  red  cherries. 

Cocoaimt  Bread  Pudding 

ii  cupfuls  stale  bread  3  cupfuls  hot  milk 

crumbs  2  egg  yolks 

1 1  tablespoonfuls  butter  i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

I  cupful  sugar  Grated  rind  of  \  lemon 

4  teaspoonful  vanilla  I  cupful  cocoanut 

Add  the  crumbs  and  butter  to  the  milk,  stir  well  and 
set  aside  to  cool.  Beat  the  egg  yolks,  add  the  sugar, 
lemon  juice  and  rind  and  the  vanilla ;  combine  with  the 
milk  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  well-buttered  pudding  dish 
in  a  moderate  oven. 

Mock  Indian  Pudding 

4  slices  of  bread  J  cupful  sugar 

i  egg  2  tablespoonfuls  Barbadoes 

3  cupfuls  milk  molasses 

1  teaspoonful   each   of  gin-  2  tablespoonfuls  melted  but- 
ger,  clove  and  cinnamon  ter  or  oleomargarine 

Crumb  the  bread  and  let  soak  in  the  milk  for  twenty 
minutes.  Scald,  add  the  sugar,  molasses,  fat  and  spices, 
and  pour  onto  the  beaten  egg.  Put  in  a  buttered  pud- 
ding dish,  and  bake  one  and  one-half  hours  in  a  slow 
oven.  Serve  with  brown  sugar  sauce. 

Sponge  Bread  Pudding 

2  cupfuls  stale  bread  crumbs          I  teaspoonful  soda,  dis- 
I  quart  milk  solved   in 

1  cupful  sugar'  i  tablespoonful  warm  water 
Few  grains  salt                                \  teaspoonful   flavoring 

2  eggs 

Scald  the  crumbs  in  the  milk.  Separate  the  eggs,  beat 
the  yolks  and  whites  separately,  and  add  the  yolks  to  the 
milk  mixture,  with  the  salt,  sugar,  soda  and  flavoring. 
Fold  in  the  egg  whites,  pour  into  a  buttered  pudding  dish, 
set  in  a  pan  of  hot  water,  and  bake  gently,  until  a  knife 
inserted  will  come  out  clean.  Serve  with  melted  jelly. 


/VT- 


520  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Lemon  Rice  Pudding 

i£  cupfuls  cooked  rice  3  cupfuls  milk 

i  egg  Juice  and  rind  $  lemon 

i  cupful  sugar 

Mix  in  the  order  given,  pour  into  a  buttered  pudding 
dish,  set  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  and  bake  slowly  until  firm 
in  the  center.  Serve  hot  or  cold,  with  currant  jelly 
sauce. 

Coffee  Pudding 

i  cupful  stale  cake  crumbs  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

I  pint  milk  I  or  2  eggs 

I  pint  cold  coffee  Few  grains  salt 
i  cupful  light  brown  sugai 

Soak  the  crumbs  in  the  milk  and  coffee  for  an  hour, 
then  stir  in  thoroughly  the  sugar,  salt  and  vanilla.  Add 
the  eggs  slightly  beaten  and  pour  the  mixture  into  a 
buttered  baking  dish.  Set  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  and 
bake  until  firm  in  the  center.  Serve  half  warm,  with 
cream. 

Peach  or  Apricot  Compote 

i  cupful  uncoated  rice  I  can  peaches    (or  apricots) 

Boil  the  rice  and  pack  it  into  well-buttered  moulds ; 
make  a  sauce  of 

1  cupful  peach  or  apricot  i  tablespoonful  corn  starch 
juice  2  tablespoonfuls  sugar 

2  teaspoonfuls  butter  I  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

Cook  the  fruit  juice,  sugar  and  corn  starch  together 
till  thick;  remove  from  the  heat,  add  the  lemon  juice  and 
butter  and  pour  over  the  unmoulded  rice,  arranged  with 
the  fruit  on  a  deep  platter. 

Pineapple  Compote 

Make  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  substituting  canned 
pineapple  for  the  fruit  mentioned. 

Cereal  Pudding 

I  cupful  any  cold  cooked  ce-         \  cupful  sugar 
real  \  teaspoonful  salt 

3  cupfuls  scalded  milk  $  teaspoonful  vanilla 
i  egg 

Scald  the  milk,  mix  together  the  egg,  sugar,  salt, 
vanilla  and  cereal.  Pour  into  a  buttered  baking  dish. 


DESSERTS  521 

Set  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  and  cook  until  "  set,"  or  firm, 
in  the  middle,  in  a  moderate  oven.  Raisins,  chopped 
figs,  stoned  dates  or  a  little  left-over  canned  fruit  may 
be  added  to  this  pudding  for  variety. 

Apple  Rice 

3  cupfuls  cold,  boiled  un-  I  cupful  fine  cookie  or  cake 

coated  or  brown  rice  crumbs 

$  cupful  sugar  i  cupful  raspberry  jam 

Juice  and  rind  2  lemons  2  tablespoonfuls  melted  but- 

2  cupfuls  cold  apple  sauce  ter 

Butter  a  baking  dish ;  put  in  a  layer  of  rice,  mixed  with 
the  sugar  and  lemon.  Add  a  layer  of  apple,  then  one  of 
rice,  continuing  in  this  way  until  the  dish  is  filled.  Have 
the  last  layer  of  rice,  spread  this  with  the  jam,  then 
add  the  crumbs  mixed  with  2  tablespoonfuls  of  melted 
butter,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  browned. 
Serve  cold  with  cream. 

Peach  and  Hominy  Ramekins 

•h  cupful    hominy    cooked    in  6  cooked,   diced  peaches 

milk  3  egg  whites 

i  cupful  candied  orange  peel  3  tablespoonfuls  powdered 
i  cupful  of  sugar  sugar 

i  teaspoonful  salt  Few  drops  orange  extract 

Cook  the  hominy  in  milk  with  the  orange  peel  and 
salt  till  the  kernels  are  softened.  Then  stir  in  the  sugar. 
Half-fill  buttered  ramekins,  set  a  peach  in  each  one,  add 
a.  little  more  hominy  and  pile  on  a  meringue  made  of  the 
egg  whites,  powdered  sugar  and  extract.  Brown  in  a 
moderate  oven,  and  serve  with  an  orange  sauce,  if  de- 
sired. A  large  baking  dish  may  be  used  in  place  of  the 
ramekins.  Plain  cooked  hominy,  left  from  breakfast, 
may  be  used,  if  moistened  with  a  little  milk. 

Creamy  Eice  Pudding 

•k  cupful  brown  or  uncoated  f.  teaspoonful  salt 

rice  4  cupfuls  cold  milk 

£  cupful  sugar 

Mix  the  ingredients  together,  bring  to  boiling  point, 
and  cook  three  hours  in  a  very  slow  oven.  Serve  either 
plain  or  with  crushed  fresh  fruit  and  cream. 


522  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

DESSERTS  WITH  A  BAKING  POWDER 
BISCUIT  FOUNDATION 

DESSERTS  OF  A  CAKE  NATURE 

Sweet  Shortcake 

4  cupfuls  flour  3  teaspoonfuls    baking   pow- 

6  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  der 

oleomargarine  2  eggs 

I  cupful  sugar  I  to  I  cupful  of  milk 

I  teaspoonful  salt 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients  together  and  rub  in  the  fat 
with  the  finger  tips.  Beat  the  eggs  light,  add  the  milk 
and  stir  into  the  flour.  Beat  well,  and,  if  too  thick,  add 
a  little  more  milk.  Spread  in  two  layer-cake  pans,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Split,  spread  with  butter  and 
the  desired  fruit,  properly  sweetened  and  prepared. 

Sweet  Fruit  Shortcake 

Follow  the  recipe  for  Sweet  Shortcake,  putting  it  to- 
gether with  strawberries  which  have  been  slightly 
crushed,  sweetened  and  allowed  to  stand  for  at  least  an 
hour;  sliced  and  sugared  peaches,  slightly  flavored  with 
lemon  juice;  sliced  and  sugared  oranges,  mixed  with 
cocoanut ;  shredded  canned  pineapple ;  stewed  sweetened 
plums ;  slightly  crushed  and  sweetened  raspberries ; 
sweetened  blackberries,  or  any  other  desired  fruit. 

With  the  raspberries,  blackberries,  peaches,  or  straw- 
berries, sweetened  whipped  cream  is  a  suitable  accom- 
paniment, although  any  of  the  foamy  cold  sauces  may  be 
used,  and  in  case  of  pineapple  a  delicious  combination  is 
a  cold  orange  foamy  sauce. 

Biscuit  Shortcake 

2$  cupfuls  flour  i  tablespoonful  sugar 

4  teaspoonfuls    baking  pow-          i  cupful  milk 

der  3  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

4  teaspoonful  salt  oleomargarine 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients  together,  thoroughly.  Work 
in  the  shortening  with  the  finger  tips,  and  add  the  milk 
slowly.  Toss  on  a  floured  board,  divide  in  two  parts,  pat 
out  and  fit  into  the  pans.  Bake  fifteen  minutes  in  a  hot 
oven. 


DESSERTS  523 

Old-Fashioned  Strawberry  Shortcake 

i  quart  strawberries  Biscuit  shortcake 

i  cupful  sugar  —  more  or  Thick  cream 

less 

Make  a  biscuit  shortcake  as  directed.  Split  and  but- 
ter it  liberally  and  fill  with  halved  strawberries  which  have 
been  allowed  to  stand  with  the  sugar  on  them  for  at  least 
an  hour.  Pile  strawberries  on  the  top,  and  serve  warm 
with  the  cream. 

Plain  Fruit  Shortcake 

This  may  be  made  with  the  biscuit  foundation.  Suit- 
able fillings  are  sliced  and  sugared  oranges,  baked  rhu- 
barb, baked  apple  sauce,  stewed  blueberries,  stewed  diced 
figs  (with  orange  sauce),  stewed  dried  pears  with  golden 
marshmallow  sauce,  or  a  combination  of  stewed  cran- 
berries and  raisins,  well  sweetened,  and  served  with 
orange  sauce. 

Fruit  Rolls 

All  fruit  rolls  have  as  a  foundation  a  biscuit  shortcake. 
This  should  be  rolled  out  into  rectangular  shape,  the 
dough  being  kept  about  one-quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  It 
should  then  be  sprinkled  to  within  an  inch  of  the  edge 
with  the  desired  fruit,  sweetened.  Canned  fruit  may  be 
used,  but  in  any  case  it  should  be  chopped  coarsely.  The 
dough  should  then  be  rolled  up  gently,  the  ends  pinched 
together,  and  the  roll  placed  fold-side  down  on  a  well- 
oiled  baking  pan.  The  top  should  be  brushed  with  milk, 
and  the  whole  baked  for  half  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 
This  may  be  served  with  cream  or  a  suitable  sauce,  the 
choice  depending  upon  the  character  of  the  filling. 

Apricot  Roll 

Make  according  to  the  general  directions  for  fruit 
rolls,  using  as  a  filling  canned  apricots,  with  a  little  addi- 
tional sugar,  and  a  grating  of  orange  rind,  or  well-sweet- 
ened, dried,  stewed  apricots.  Serve  with  lemon  sauce. 

Strawberry  Fruit  Roll 

Make  according  to  the  general  directions  for  fruit 
rolls,  using  strawberries  halved  or  quartered,  well-mixed 


524  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

with  sugar  and  a  few  grains  of  cinnamon.     Serve  with 
strawberry  sauce  or  cream. 

Raisin  Roll 

Make  according  to  the  general  directions  for  fruit 
rolls,  sprinkling  the  dough  thickly  with  a  cupful  of 
chopped  raisins,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  i  table- 
spoonful  of  cinnamon.  Serve  with  lemon  sauce. 

Prune  Fruit  Roll 

Follow  the  general  directions  for  making  fruit  rolls, 
covering  the  dough  with  halved  stewed  prunes.  Sprinkle 
on  a  little  grated  orange  rind.  Finish  as  directed. 

Baked  Fruit  Dumplings 

Prepare  the  mixture  for  Biscuit  Shortcake ;  roll  out 
to  about  one-quarter  inch  thickness.  Cut  in  four-inch 
squares,  and  on  each  square  place  a  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  and  well-sweetened  fruit.  Fold  up  the  edges, 
press  together,  place  fold-side  down  in  a  buttered  baking 
pan,  and  bake  gently  for  thirty  minutes.  Serve  with  any 
desired  sauce. 

*  Baked  Apple  Dumplings 

Prepare  as  in  general  directions  for  Baked  Dump- 
lings, using  apples,  sweetened,  and  flavored  with  nut- 
meg and  cinnamon. 

Baked  Pear  Dumplings 

Prepare  as  in  general  directions  for  Baked  Dumplings, 
using  sweetened  canned,  stewed,  dried  or  fresh  pears, 
with  a  little  candied  ginger  as  flavoring. 

Baked  Rhubarb  and  Pineapple  Dumplings 
Prepare   as  in  general   directions   for   Baked   Dump- 
lings and  use  a  combination  of  chopped  sweetened  raw 
rhubarb  and  canned  pineapple,  with  a  little  lemon  juice, 
as  a  filling. 

Baked  Strawberry  Dumplings 

Prepare  as  in  general  directions  for  Baked  Dumplings, 
and  use  sweetened  quartered  strawberries,  flavored  with 
a  little  cinnamon. 


DESSERTS  525 

Upside-Down  Apple  Pie 

I  quart  apples  Salt 

i  cupful  sugar  I  tablespoonful    butter    or 

\  teaspoonful  cloves  oleomargarine 

I  cupful  boiling  water  Short  biscuit  crust 

Pare  and  slice  the  apples,  mix  with  them  the  sugar, 
cloves,  salt  and  fat  and  place  in  a  well-oiled  baking  dish, 
with  a  cupful  of  boiling  water.  Cover,  set  in  the  oven 
and  bake  for  twenty  minutes;  then  place  the  crust  over 
the  top,  and  finish  baking.  Let  it  cool  slightly,  then  turn 
upside  down  on  a  platter,  and  serve  with  hard  or  lemon 
sauce. 

Upside-Down  Raspberry  and  Currant  Pie 

Make  according  to  the  directions  for  Upside-Down 
Apple  Pie,  using  equal  quantities  of  raspberries  and  red 
currants  and  a  few  grains  of  nutmeg. 

Upside-Down  Peach  Pie 

Make  according  to  the  directions  for  Upside-Down 
Apple  Pie,  and  use  sliced  and  sugared  peaches. 

Individual  Upside-Down  Pies 

Butter  muffin  pans  thoroughly,  and  fill  with  sliced, 
sweetened  and  seasoned  fruit.  Put  on  each  pan  a  round 
of  biscuit  crust  a  little  smaller  than  the  diameter  of  the 
pan.  Bake  about  twenty-five  minutes. 

For  serving,  remove  to  individual  plates,  turning  the 
pies  crust-side  down,  or,  if  desired,  they  may  be  baked  in 
ramekins,  when  they  may  be  served  in  the  dishes. 

Steamed  Apple  Dumplings 

8  apples  I  cupful  sugar 

i£  cupfuls  cold  water  \  teaspoonful  cinnamon 

Pare,  core  and  quarter  the  apples,  put  in  a  saucepan 
with  the  water,  and  cook  rapidly  until  soft,  stirring  fre- 
quently. Sweeten  and  add  the  cinnamon.  While  this 
is  cooking,  prepare  the  dumpling  mixture  as  given  in 
quick  breads.  Pat  out  to  one-half  inch  thickness  and 
shape  into  rounds.  Have  the  apple  sauce  boiling  hot; 
put  the  dumplings  on  the  surface,  cover  and  cook  for 
twelve  minutes.  Serve  with  lemon  sauce. 


526  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Cranberry  Dumplings 

Make  a  cranberry  sauce  of  I  quart  of  cranberries,  i£ 
cupfuls  of  water,  and  2  cupfuls  of  sugar.  Prepare  a 
dumpling  mixture,  and  finish  according  to  the  recipe  for 
Steamed  Apple  Dumplings. 

Currant  Dumplings 

Stew  together  one  quart  of  red  currants,  -J  cupful  of 
water  and  ij  cupfuls  of  sugar.  When  soft  and  boiling 
hard,  lay  on  the  dumplings  and  finish  according  to 
the  recipe  for  Steamed  Apple  dumplings. 

Strawberry  Dumplings 

Make  according  to  the  recipe  for  Cranberry  Dump- 
lings, adding  J  tablespoonful  of  butter  to  the  strawberry 
sauce. 

Prune  Pudding 

2  tablespoonfuls  melted  but-  i  cupful  raw,  pitted  prunes 

ter  or  oleomargarine  i  cupful  milk 

\  cupful  granulated  sugar  ii  cupfuls  whole  wheat  meal 

i  teaspoonful  orange  flavor  or  flour 

ing  3  teaspoonfuls    baking    pow- 

i  egg  der 

Beat  together  the  butter^  sugar,  flavoring  and  egg. 
Add  the  prunes  to  the  meal  or  flour,  mix  in  the  baking 
powder  and  add  this  alternately  with  the  milk  to  the  first 
mixture.  Bake  in  a  shallow  pan,  dredge  thickly  with 
powdered  sugar,  cut  in  squares  and  serve  with  a  sauce 
made  of  thickened  fruit  juice. 

Mocha  Pudding 

$  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  2^  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

garine  der 

i  cupful  sugar  2  egg  whites 

i  cupful  strong  coffee  I  cupful  broken  walnut 

i  teaspoonful  vanilla  meats 
if  cupfuls  flour 

Cream  the  fat,  and  beat  in  the  sugar  and  vanilla.  Sift 
together  the  flour  and  baking  powder,  add  the  nut  meats 
and  then  stir  in  alternately  with  the  coffee  into  the  first 
mixture.  Lastly,  fold  in  the  egg  whites,  beaten  stiff. 
Bake  in  two  layers,  put  together  with  raspberry  jam  or 
drained  canned  raspberries  and  decorate  with  a  cupful 


DESSERTS  527 

of  cream  sweetened  and  whipped  solid  with  a  half  cupful 
of  raspberry  syrup.  Strawberries  or  loganberries  may 
replace  the  raspberries. 

Strawberry  Meringue 

1  cupful  sugar  I  egg  yolk 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  2  cupfuls  sliced  strawberries 
£  cupful  milk  2  tablespoonfuls  confection- 

1  cupful  flour  er's  sugar 

2  egg  whites  i  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 
ii  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 
der 

Make  an  ordinary  cake  mixture  of  the  sugar,  butter, 
milk,  flour,  baking  powder  and  egg  yolk,  and  bake  in  a 
layer-cake  pan.  Let  the  strawberries  stand  with  sugar 
on  them  for  thirty  minutes.  Pile  onto  the  baked  cake, 
cover  with  a  meringue  made  of  the  egg  whites,  stiffly 
beaten  with  the  confectioner's  sugar  and  lemon  juice. 
Brown  and  serve  with  strawberry  sauce. 

Cottage  Puffs 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  \  teaspoonful  orange  extract 

3  tablespoonfuls  lard  or  \  cupful  milk 

drippings  if  cupfuls  flour 

1  cupful  sugar  3  teaspoonfuls    baking    pow- 

2  eggs  der 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar  gradually,  and  the  eggs, 
well  beaten.  Mix  the  flour  and  baking  powder,  and  add 
alternately  with  the  milk  to  the  first  mixture.  Bake  in 
individual  pans  and  serve  with  orange  sauce. 


TAPIOCA  DESSERTS 

Baked  Caramel  Tapioca 

$  cupful  pearl  tapioca  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

I  cupful  light  brown  sugar  i  quart  boiling  water 

I  tablespoon  ful  butter  2  egg  whites 

Few  grains  salt  Vanilla 

Soak  the  tapioca  over  night,  then  mix  in  the  baking 
dish  with  the  sugar,  butter,  salt  and  vanilla,  and  pour 
on  the  water.  Bake  two  hours  in  a  moderate  oven,  then 
spread  a  meringue  over  the  top  made  of  the  egg  whites, 
a  few  grains  of  salt,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sugar  and 


528  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

vanilla.  Bake  twelve  minutes  more  in  a  slow  oven, 
then  let  stand  two  hours  to  solidify,  and  serve  with 
brown  sugar  syrup,  either  with  or  without  a  few  chopped 
nut  meats. 

Apple  Tapioca 

I  cupful   pearl   or   \  cupful  %  teaspoonful  salt 

quick   cooking   tapioca  6  tart  apples 

Cold  water  to  cover  I  cupful  sugar 

2,\  cupfuls  boiling  water  2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 

Soak  the  tapioca  an  hour  in  water  to  cover.  Drain, 
add  the  boiling  water  and  salt  and  cook  in  a  double 
boiler  until  the  tapioca  looks  clear.  Pare  and  core  the 
apples,  cut  in  quarters,  and  place  in  a  baking  dish  or 
casserole.  Add  the  lemon  juice  and  sugar  to  the  tapioca, 
pour  over  the  apples  and  bake  or  steam  until  the  apples 
are  soft. 

Peach  Tapioca 

Make  according  to  the  directions  for  Apple  Tapioca, 
substituting  sliced  canned  or  fresh  peaches  for  the  apples. 

Tapioca  Kaisin  Pudding 

I  cupful   pearl    or    \    cupful  £  teaspoonful  salt 

quick  cooking  tapioca  I  cupful  raisins 

Cold  water  to  cover  I  cupful    light   brown    sugar 

3  cupfuls  boiling  water  Juice  and  rind  ii  lemons 

Soak  the  tapioca  an  hour  in  water  to  cover.  Drain, 
add  the  boiling  water  and  salt  and  cook  in  a  double 
boiler  until  the  tapioca  looks  clear.  Add  the  raisins, 
sugar  and  lemon  and  bake  an  hour  in  a  slow  oven. 
Serve  with  cream. 

Lemon  Tapioca 

\  cupful  pearl  or  J  cupful  i  cupful  sugar 

quick  cooking  tapioca  i  cupful  lemon  juice 

Cold  water  to  cover  Grated  rind  one  lemon 

3i  cupfuls  boiling  water  2  egg  whites 
\  teaspoonful   salt 

Soak  the  tapioca  an  hour.  Then  add  to  the  boiling 
water  with  the  salt  and  lemon  rind  and  cook  until  clear. 
Remove  the  rind,  and  turn  in  the  sugar  and  lemon  juice. 
Beat  the  egg  whites  stiff,  fold  them  lightly  in,  chill  and 
serve  in  sherbet  glasses. 


DESSERTS  529 

Coffee  Tapioca 

3  ctipfuls  coffee  2  eggs 

4!  tablespoonfuls  pearl,  or  3          |  cupful  sugar 
tablespoonfuls  quick  cook-          i  teaspoonful  salt 
ing  tapioca  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Heat  the  coffee  in  a  double  boiler.  Add  the  tapioca 
(after  soaking  for  an  hour  in  water  to  cover),  and  cook 
until  it  is  transparent;  caramelize  J  cupful  of  the  sugar, 
and  add  to  the  tapioca  mixture.  In  the  meantime,  beat 
together  the  egg  yolks,  salt  and  remaining  sugar.  Add  to 
the  tapioca  mixture,  and,  when  thickened,  fold  in  the 
stiffly-beaten  egg  whites.  Serve  very  cold,  with  or  with- 
out whipped  cream. 

Indian  Tapioca  Pudding 

4  tablespoonfuls  pearl  tapi-  2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 
oca  oleomargarine 

4  tablespoonfuls  home-  5  cupfuls  milk 

ground  cornmeal  2  teaspoonfuls  salt 

§  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses  i  cupful  chopped  candied 

1  cupful  sugar  ginger  (optional) 

Cover  the  tapioca  with  warm  water,  and  let  it  soak 
an  hour;  scald  the  milk,  add  the  tapioca,  and  cook  for 
fifteen  minutes.  Mix  together  the  remaining  ingre- 
dients, stir  into  the  tapioca  mixture  and  cook  over  hot 
water,  till  thickened  and  the  mixture  is  beginning  to  sep- 
arate. Turn  into  a  buttered  baking  dish,  and  bake  for 
three  hours  in  a  slow  oven.  Always  add  an  extra  cupful 
of  cold  milk  at  the  end  of  two  hours. 

Tapioca  Cream 

\  cupful   pearl,    or   £   cupful  \  teaspoonful   salt 

quick  cooking  tapioca  I  teaspoonful  vanilla 

2  eggs  '    i£  cupfuls  scalded  milk 
§  cupful  sugar 

Soak  the  tapioca  an  hour  in  cold  water  to  cover. 
Drain  and  cook  in  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  in 
a  double  boiler  until  transparent,  stirring  frequently. 
Then  add  the  milk,  and  pour  the  mixture  gradually 
onto  the  egg  yolks  and  sugar,  beaten  together.  Re- 
turn to  the  double  boiler  and  cook  until  it  thickens, 
or  coats  the  spoon.  Remove  from  the  heat,  and  pour 
onto  the  egg  whites,  beaten  stiff.  Chill,  add  salt  and 


530  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

flavoring.  A  half  cupful  of  quartered  dates  may  be 
added  if  desired.  All  milk  may  be  used  instead  of  part 
water. 

Chocolate  Tapioca 

3  cupfuls  milk  &  teaspoonful  salt 

i  cupful  water  £  teaspoonful  vanilla 

I  cupful  sugar  I  scant  cupful  quick  cooking 

4  tablespoonfuls  powdered  tapioca 
cocoa 

Heat  the  milk  and  water  together  and  add  the  tapioca. 
Stir  in  the  cocoa,  sugar  and  salt  well-mixed,  and  cook  the 
mixture  until  the  tapioca  is  translucent.  Chill  and  serve 
with  light  cream. 

Moulded  Coffee  Tapioca 

t  cupfuls  boiling  coffee  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

cupful  sugar  -J  cupful  broken  English  wal- 

I  scant  cupful  quick  cooking  nuts,  hickory  nuts  or  black 

tapioca  walnut  meats 
Few  grains  salt 

Dissolve  the  sugar  and  salt  in  the  coffee,  add  the 
tapioca,  and  cook  gently  until  it  is  translucent.  Stir  in 
the  nuts.  Add  the  vanilla,  chill  and  serve  with  light  or 
whipped  cream. 


FRUIT  LOAVES  AND  "  BETTYS  " 

Brown  Betty 

3  cupfuls  tart  apples,  chopped          Light  brown  sugar 

fine  Ground  cloves  and  cinnamon 

3  cupfuls  soft  bread  crumbs          Butter  or  oleomargarine 

Butter  a  baking  dish  or  casserole;  put  in  a  layer  of 
apples,  sprinkle  with  the  sugar,  mixed  with  the  spice,  and 
cover  with  crumbs.  Repeat  until  all  is  used,  and  make 
the  last  layer  of  'crumbs,  dotting  well  with  butter  and 
sprinkling  with  the  sugar  mixture.  Cover  and  bake 
forty-five  minutes  in  a  hot  oven,  then  remove  the  lid  and 
brown  quickly.  Serve  half  warm,  with  cream,  or  hard, 
or  lemon  sauce. 


DESSERTS  531 

Cherry  Betty 

2  cupfuls  stoned  cherries,  i  cupful  sugar 

chopped  i  teaspoonful   cinnamon 

4  cupfuls  soft  bread  crumbs,  4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 
or  stale  cake  crumbs  oleomargarine 

Butter  a  baking  dish  and  put  a  layer  of  cherries  in  the 
bottom;  sprinkle  with  the  sugar  and  cinnamon  mixed, 
dot  with  butter,  put  in  crumbs  and  repeat  until  the  dish 
is  filled,  making  the  last  layer  buttered  crumbs.  Bake 
covered  in  a  moderate  oven  for  forty  minutes.  Then  un- 
cover and  let  brown,  and  serve  with  hard,  fruit  or  a  lemon 
sauce. 

Fruit  and  Bread  Loaves 

.  Butter  a  smooth  bowl,  and  fill  it  with  alternating  layers 
of  crumbled  buttered  white  or  entire  wheat  bread,  and 
hot,  sweetened  fruit  with  juice.  Let  stand  several  hours 
to  chill.  Unmould  and  serve  with  cream  and  sugar  or 
rich  milk,  or  extra  fruit  juice,  or  crushed  and  sweetened 
fruit.  Rhubarb,  pineapple,  cherries,  blackberries  and 
blueberries  may  all  be  used. 

Pineapple  Bread  Charlotte 

Butter  bread  and  slice  it  thin.  Arrange  in  layers  in  a 
well-buttered  baking  dish,  with  finely-shredded  canned 
pineapple  and  juice  which  has  been  heated  to  boiling  point 
and  made  very  sweet,  and  to  which  has  been  added  a 
dash  of  lemon  juice. 

Make  the  last  layer  bread,  and  sift  powdered  sugar 
thickly  over  it.  Bake  about  thirty  minutes  in  a  moderate 
oven.  It  may  be  necessary  to  cover  it  while  baking  lest 
the  top  become  too  brown.  Half  cool  and  serve  in  slices. 
Lady  fingers  or  stale  sponge  cake  may  be  substituted  for 
the  bread  if  desired;  in  this  case  the  pineapple  should  not 
be  made  so  sweet. 

STEAMED  PUDDINGS 

Suet  Pudding 

4  cupful  suet,  chopped  fine  i  teaspoonful    soda 

i  cupful  sugar  I  teaspoonful   salt 

I  cupful  sour  milk  3  cupfuls   flour 

I  cupful  raisins,  dates  or  2  teaspoonfuls  cinnamon 

figs,  chopped  fine  i  teaspoonful  cloves 


532  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Mix  the  suet,  sugar  and  milk  together.  Sift  together 
the  soda,  salt  and  flour.  Add  2  cupfuls  of  flour  to  the 
first  mixture ;  mix  the  fruit  with  the  remaining  flour  and 
add  with  the  spices.  Turn  into  a  well-oiled  and  floured 
mould  and  steam  four  hours.  Serve  with  a  hard  sauce. 
If  dates  are  used,  add  2  tablespoonfuls  chopped,  candied 
orange  peel,  and  omit  the  spice. 

French  Fruit  Pudding 

i  cupful  chopped  suet  i  teaspoonful  cinnamon 

i  cupful  Barbadoes  molas-  i  teaspoonful  clove 

ses  $  teaspoonful  salt 

i  cupful  sour  milk  ii  cupfuls  chopped  raisins 

ii  teaspoonfuls  soda  I  cupful  currants 
2,\  cupfuls  flour 

Add  the  molasses  and  sour  milk  to  the  suet.  Stir  in  2 
cupfuls  of  the  flour  sifted  with  the  soda,  salt  and  spices. 
Add  the  fruit  combined  with  the  remaining  flour,  mix 
well,  pour  into  a  well-oiled  and  floured  mould  and  steam 
four  hours. 

Christmas  Pudding 

i  cupful  chopped  suet  i  teaspoonful  cinnamon 

i  cupful  sugar  i  teaspoonful  clove 
£  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses          £  teaspoonful  salt 

I  cupful  sour  milk  ij  cupfuls  chopped  raisins 

i \  teaspoonfuls  soda  3  cupfuls  chopped  currants 

i  egg  i  cupful  chopped  figs 

3&  cupfuls  flour  \  cupful  chopped  candied 
\  cupful  chopped  walnut  orange  peel 

meats 

Mix  together  the  flour,  spices,  prepared  fruits  and  salt. 
Combine  the  soda,  sour  milk  and  molasses,  add  the  suet, 
sugar  and  the  egg,  unbeaten,  and  then  beat  in  the  flour 
mixture.  Steam  in  a  well-oiled  and  floured  mould  for 
four  hours,  then  serve  garnished  with  holly  surrounded 
by  portions  of  hard  sauce,  sprinkled  with  chopped  pis- 
tachio nut  meats,  and  capped  with  candied  cherries. 

The  pudding  will  be  more  attractive  still,  if  blazing 
when  brought  to  the  table.  To  accomplish  this,  pour 
over  three  tablespoonfuls  of  good  brandy,  and  ignite  it 
just  before  sending  to  the  table.  This  amount  will  serve 
twelve  people. 


DESSERTS  533 

Rich  Fruit  Pudding 

i  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses  i  teaspoonful  soda 

4  cupful   sugar  -£  teaspoonful   clove 

I  cupful  sweet  milk  £  teaspoonful   nutmeg 

I  teaspoonful    cinnamon  I  cupful  chopped  raisins 

i  teaspoonful   ginger  I  cupful  chopped  figs 

1  cupful  chopped  dates  32-  cupfuls  flour 

4  cupful  candied  orange  pee!  i  cupful  chopped  almonds 
i  cupful  butter   or   oleomar- 
garine 

Melt  the  fat,  and  combine  with  the  milk,  slightly 
warmed ;  add  the  soda  to  the  molasses,  mix  all  together, 
add  the  spices,  sugar,  and  gradually  beat  in  3  cupfuls  of 
the  flour.  Mix  the  fruit  and  nuts  with  the  remaining 
flour,  and  add  to  the  mixture.  Beat  well.  Pour  into  a 
well-oiled  and  floured  pudding  mould,  and  steam  four 
hours.  Serve  with  hard  sauce. 

Hunter's  Pudding 

£  pound  currants  ii  teaspoonfuls   ginger 

i  pound  raisins  I  teaspoonful  salt 

Grated  rind  £  lemon  i  cupful  brown  sugar 

\  pound  suet  i  teaspoonful  soda 

3  eggs  I  cupful  milk 
3i  cupfuls  flour 

Chop  the  suet  fine,  and  mix  into  the  flour  with  the  soda 
and  fruit.  Add  the  salt  and  ginger,  rub  in  the  sugar, 
and  work  in  the  milk  and  the  eggs,  well-beaten.  Steam 
in  a  well-oiled  and  floured  mould  for  four  hours.  Serve 
with  hard  ginger  sauce. 

Steamed  Date  Pudding 

2.  cupfuls  entire  wheat  flour  i  egg 

i  teaspoonful  salt  2.  tablespoonfuls  melted  but- 
2,\  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow-  ter  or  oleomargarine 

der  Grated  rind  and  juice  of  I 

4  tablespoonfuls  sugar  lemon 

I  cupful  shredded  dates  \  cupful    milk 

Mix  together  the  flour,  salt,  baking  powder,  sugar  and 
dates.  Beat  the  egg  light,  add  to  the  milk  with  the 
lemon,  stir  in  the  flour  mixture,  beat  well,  add  the  melted 
butter  and  turn  into  well-oilecl  and  floured  pound  baking- 
powder  cans.  Steam  an  hour,  and  serve  with  lemon 
sauce. 


534  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Steamed  Graham  Pudding 

i  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  i  cupful  fine  entire  wheat 

garine,  melted  flour 

£  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses          ii  cupfuls  graham  meal 
4  cupful  milk,  sweet  or  sour          i  teaspoonful  soda 
I  egg  i  teaspoonful  salt 

I  cupful  halved  raisins 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given,  stirring  well. 
Reserve  -J  cupful  of  the  flour  with  which  to  mix  the 
raisins,  adding  them  last.  Turn  into  a  well-oiled  and 
floured  mould,  and  steam  two  and  one-half  hours. 

Little  Fig  Puddings 

1  cupful  milk  4  eggs 

2  cupfuls  stale  bread  crumbs          Grated  rind  and  juice  i 
I  cupful  sugar  lemon 

1  teaspoonful  salt  4  cupful  chopped  suet 

2  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow-  I  cupful  chopped  figs 
der                                                    i  cupful  chopped  walnut 

I  cupful  flour  meats 

Scald  the  milk  and  crumbs  together,  then  add  the  sugar, 
salt  and  lemon,  and  the  egg  yolks,  well  beaten.  Mix  to- 
gether the  flour,  baking  powder,  salt,  nuts  and  figs,  then 
add  to  the  first  mixture.  Lastly,  fold  in  the  egg  whites, 
well  beaten.  Turn  into  individual  tin  or  aluminum 
moulds  or  cups ;  set  in  a  steamer  top,  cover  with  a  piece 
of  pararfine  paper  and  steam  an  hour  and  a  half.  Serve 
with  sweetened  whipped  cream  and  stewed  or  preserved 
figs.  This  amount  will  serve  twelve  people. 

Little  Date  Puddings 

3  cupfuls  entire  wheat  flour          i  cupful  cocoanut 
I  teaspoonful  salt  2  eggs 

3^  teaspoonfuls  baking  2  tablespoonfuls  melted  but- 

powder  ter   or  oleomargarine 

i  cupful  sugar  Grated  rind  and  juice  i  lemon 

I  cupful  shredded  dates  i  cupful  milk 

Mix  together  the  dry  ingredients;  add  the  dates;  beat 
the  eggs  light,  mix"  with  the  milk,  add  the  lemon  and  pour 
into  the  flour  mixture.  Add  the  cocoanut  and  melted 
butter,  beat  thoroughly  and  turn  into  well-oiled  custard 
cups  or  moulds.  Steam  an  hour,  and  serve  with  a  lemon 
sauce. 


STEAMED  CHRISTMAS  PUDDING 


RHUBARB  PUDDING  WITH  BANANA  DECORATION 


DESSERTS  535 

Steamed  Cranberry  Pudding 

I  cupful  milk  3  tablespoonfuls  melted  but-    f 

2.  eggs  ter  or  oleomargarine 

i  teaspoonful  salt  About  3  cupfuls  ground  en- 

I  cupful  sugar  tire  wheat  bread  crumbs 
I  cupful  cranberries 

Beat  the  eggs  with  the  salt  and  sugar,  add  the  milk  and 
butter,  and  stir  in  the  cranberries  with  enough  crumbs 
to  make  a  drop  batter.  Steam  an  hour,  and  serve  hot, 
with  cranberry  pudding  sauce. 

Steamed  Blueberry  Pudding 

ii  tablespoonfuls  lard  I  cupful  milk 

i  cupful  granulated  sugar  3  cupfuls  flour 

i  teaspoonful  orange  flavor-  i  cupful   blueberries 

ing  3  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 
i  egg  der 

Cream  the  lard,  beat  in  the  sugar  and  egg  and  add  the 
flavoring.  Sift  together  the  flour  and  baking  powder, 
add  the  blueberries,  and  add  alternately  with  the  milk  to 
the  first  mixture.  Pour  into  a  well-oiled  pudding  mould 
and  steam  three  hours.  Serve  with  fruit,  hard,  or  lemon 
sauce. 

Snow  Puffs 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  i  cupful  flour 

drippings  if  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

£  cupful  sugar  der 

4  tablespoonfuls  milk  2  egg  whites 
i  teaspoonful  orange  extract 

Cream  the  butter,  beat  in  the  sugar  and  mix  and  sift 
the  baking  powder  with  the  flour.  Add  the  flavoring  and, 
alternately,  the  flour  mixture  with  the  milk.  Lastly,  fold 
in  the  egg  whites,  whipped  dry.  Turn  into  well-oiled 
moulds  or  custard  cups  and  steam  thirty-five  minutes. 
Serve  with  any  preserved  fruit  sauce  and  whipped  cream, 
if  convenient. 

Steamed  Chocolate  Puffs 

i  egg  2  squares  (ounces)  chocolate 

6  tablespoonfuls    sugar  (melted) 

Few  grains  salt  3  tablespoonfuls  melted  but- 

i  teaspoonful  cinnamon  ter  or  oleomargarine 

ii  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow-  i  cupful  milk 

der                   f  i  cupful  flour 


536  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Separate  the  eggs,  beat  the  yolks,  and  whip  the  sugar, 
salt  and  cinnamon  into  them.  Add  the  chocolate  and, 
gradually,  the  milk  and  the  flour  mixed  and  sifted  with 
the  baking  powder.  Lastly,  fold  in  the  egg  whites, 
beaten  stiff.  Turn  into  well-oiled  custard  cups  or  moulds 
and  steam  thirty-five  minutes.  If  cooked  in  a  large 
mould,  this  must  be  steamed  an  hour.  Serve  with  hard 
or  foamy  sauce. 

Steamed  Cranberry  Puffs 

I  tablespoonful  lard  I  cupful  milk 

i  cupful  granulated  sugar  if  cupfuls  flour 

i  teaspoonful  orange  flavor-  i  cupful  cranberries 

ing  3  teaspoon  fuls  baking  pow- 
I  egg  der 

Cream  the  lard,  beat  in  the  sugar  and  flavoring,  and 
mix  together  the  flour,  baking  powder  and  cranberries. 
Add  the  latter  alternately  with  the  milk  to  the  first  mix- 
ture; turn  into  well-oiled  custard  cups  and  steam  for 
thirty-five  minutes.  Serve  with  a  sweet  orange  sauce. 

Steamed  Blackberry  or  Blueberry  Puffs 

Substitute  blackberries  or  blueberries  for  the  cran- 
berries in  the  preceding  recipe. 


DESSERTS  WITH  A  CAKE  FOUNDATION 

Orange  Souffle  Pudding 

Half  fill  a  buttered  baking  dish  or  individual  ramekins 
with  bits  of  stale  cake,  preferably  sponge,  gold,  or  a  mix- 
ture of  plain  and  fruit  cake.  Pour  over  Soft  Custard  No. 
I,  which  should  be  cold.  Cover  this  with  bits  of  orange, 
and  then  with  a  meringue.  Bake  twelve  minutes  in  a 
slow  oven. 

Fruit  Meringues 

Cut  stale  sponge  or  plain  cake  in  slices  or  rounds. 
Cover  with  halved  and  sweetened  strawberries,  sliced  and 
sweetened  peaches,  stewed  fresh  or  dried  apricots,  or 
crushed  raspberries  sweetened,  and  top  with  meringue. 
Bake  the  usual  length  of  time,  and  serve  with  soft  cus- 
tard or  a  sauce  of  the  fruit,  or  fruit  juice  thickened. 


DESSERTS  537 

Orange  Meringues 

4  navel  oranges  i  tablespoonful  compote 

£  lemon  juice 

1  cupful  water  2  cupfuls  granulated  sugar 

2  egg  whites  £  cupful  dried  apricot  or  anji 
2  tablespoonfuls  powdered  canned  fruit  juice 

sugar  Stale  cake 

Separate  the  oranges  into  sections  without  breaking  the 
membrane.  Make  a  syrup  of  the  water,  sugar,  apricot 
and  lemon  juices,  boiling  it  for  five  minutes.  Add  the 
oranges,  cover  and  cool.  This  is  orange  compote. 
Place  these  orange  sections  on  sliced,  stale  cake,  which 
should  be  well-moistened  with  the  compote  juice.  Make 
a  meringue  of  the  egg  whites,  sugar  and  a  tablespoonful 
of  the  compote  juice ;  pile  over  the  cake,  and  brown 
slowly,  allowing  ten  minutes ;  serve  cold,  with  additional 
compote  as  a  garnish  or  sauce. 

Banana  Pudding 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter  or              I  cupful  banana  pulp,  put 

oleomargarine  through  a  potato  ricer 

£  cupful  corn  starch  2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 

ij  cupfuls  boiling  water  I  cupful  stale  cake  crumbs 

Few  grains  salt  \  cupful  shredded  pine- 

2  eggs  apple 

1  cupful  sugar 

Cream  together  the  butter  and  corn  starch  and  add  to 
the  boiling  water,  letting  it  boil  up  once.  Cook  fifteen 
minutes  over  hot  water.  Beat  the  egg  yolks  light,  add  the 
salt  and  the  sugar,  mixing  well.  Remove  the  skins  from 
the  bananas  and  put  the  pulp  through  a  potato  ricer. 
Butter  a  baking  dish,  thickly,  and  line  with  stale  crumbs ; 
then  add  the  egg  mixture  and  banana  to  the  pudding,  pour 
in  the  lemon  juice,  mix  and  transfer  to  the  baking  dish. 
Spread  a  thin  layer  of  pineapple  over  the  top  and  cover 
with  a  meringue  made  of  the  egg  whites  and  3  tablespoon- 
fuls of  powdered  sugar.  Set  in  a  slow  oven  ten  minutes 
to  brown,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold  with  pineapple 
sauce. 

Cake  Pudding 

2  cupfuls  stale  cake  crumbs  \  teaspoonful  any  flavoring 

1  or  2  eggs  3  cupfuls  milk 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar  Few  grains  salt 


538  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Liet  the  crumbs  stand  in  the  milk  ten  minutes ;  beat 
slightly  together  the  eggs,  sugar  and  flavoring;  add  the 
salt  and  the  milk  mixture,  pour  into  buttered  custard  cups 
or  a  pudding  dish;  stand  in  hot  water  and  bake  till  firm 
in  the  center,  about  thirty  minutes.  Serve  with  cream, 
or  chocolate,  fruit  or  jelly  sauce. 

Stale  cookie  crumbs  or  "  left-over "  gingerbread  may 
be  used  up  in  this  way,  or  a  mixture  of  the  different  kinds 
of  cake  and  cookie  crumbs  gives  a  good  result. 

Baked  Almond  Pudding 

6  macaroons  i  cupful  shredded  almonds 

6  lady  fingers  Few  drops  vanilla 

1  cupful  milk  i  cupful  sugar 
3  eggs 

Pour  the  scalded  milk  over  the  lady  fingers  and 
macaroons.  Add  the  flavoring,  sugar,  almonds  and  egg 
yolks,  beaten  until  lemon-colored,  and  combine  with  the 
whites,  beaten  stiff.  Divide  into  buttered  ramekins  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  till  brown.  Serve  hot  or  cold, 
with  whipped  cream  and  Maraschino  cherries. 

Baked  Gingerbread  Pudding 

2  cupfuls    gingerbread  I  teaspoonful   mixed   spices 
crumbs  i  or  2  eggs 

$  cupful  brown  sugar  3  cupfuls  milk 

Butter  a  baking  dish.  Let  the  crumbs  stand  in  the 
milk  for  ten  minutes,  then  add  the  sugar  and  the  egg, 
beaten  together  with  the  spices.  Stand  in  a  pan  of  hot 
water  and  bake  for  forty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 
Serve  with  a  brown  sugar  or  caramel  sauce,  if  desired. 

Date  and  Nut  Pudding  (Mrs.  W.  H.  Ralyea) 

I  cupful  walnut  meats,  2  tablespoonfuls  flour 

chopped  coarse  I  teaspoonful  baking  pow- 

i  cupful  dates,  quartered  der 

Few  grains  salt  2  eggs 

Mix  together  the  dates  and  walnuts;  stir  the  baking 
powder  into  the  flour ;  then  combine  with  the  dates  and 
nuts.  Add  the  beaten  egg  yolks  and  mix  thoroughly. 
Then  fold  in  the  egg  whites,  whipped  stiff  and  dry. 
Transfer  to  a  shallow  baking  pan  and  bake  twenty  min- 


DESSERTS  539 

utes  in  a  moderate  oven.  Cool  and  cut  in  squares.  Gar- 
nish at  serving  time  with  whipped  cream  sweetened  and 
flavored  with  vanilla,  and  a  few  chopped  nut  meats,  or 
some  shredded  candied  cherries. 

Fruit  Whips  and  Charlottes 

Fruit  whips  may  be  made  to  serve  in  two  ways,  either 
uncooked  or  baked.  The  uncooked  whips  may  be  served 
as  an  accompaniment  to  canned  or  crushed  fruit  of  a 
harmonizing  kind,  or  piled  on  sponge  cake  or  lady  fingers, 
and  served  with  boiled  custard. 

Strawberry  Whip 

1 1  cupfuls  mashed  straw-  I  cupful  powdered  sugar 

berries  2  egg  whites 

Put  the  ingredients  in  a  wide  bowl,  and  beat  the  mix- 
ture with  a  wire  whisk  until  stiff  enough  to  hold  its  shape. 
Serve  with  whipped  cream  in  tall  glasses,  or  surrounded 
with  boiled  custard,  or  on  cut  and  sugared  strawberries, 
or  in  a  bowl  lined  with  lady  fingers  or  strips  of  sponge 
cake. 

Easpberry  Whip 

Make  according  to  the  directions  for  Strawberry  Whip, 
substituting  crushed  raspberries  for  the  strawberries. 

Apricot  Whip 

Make  according  to  the  directions  for  Strawberry  Whip, 
substituting  sifted  canned  or  stewed  dried  apricots  for  the 
strawberries. 

Apple  Whip 

Make  according  to  the  directions  for  Strawberry  Whip, 
substituting  well-sweetened  apple  sauce  for  the  straw- 
berries. 

Cherry  Whip 

Canned  cherries  2  tablespoonfuls    powdered 

2  egg  whites  sugar 

Beat  the  egg  whites  and  sugar  together  till  nearly  stiff, 
then  add  a  fourth  cupful  of  the  cherry  liquor  and  con- 
tinue beating  until  it  will  hold  its  shape.  Serve  piled  on 
canned  cherries.  Ox-heart  cherries  are  best  for  this  pur- 
pose. 


540  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Tig  Whip 

5  egg1  whites  5  tablespoonfuls   powdered 

I  cupful  sifted  or  chopped  sugar 

fig  pulp    (from   cooked  Few   grains   salt 

figs)  I  teaspoonful  cream  of  tar- 

i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice  tar 

Beat  the  egg  whites  stiff;  mix  together  the  sugar,  salt 
and  cream  of  tartar,  and  beat  into  the  egg  whites.  Fold 
in  the  lemon  juice  and  fig  mixture ;  pile  lightly  into  a  but- 
tered baking  dish  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  about 
twenty-five  minutes.  Serve  hot  or  cold  with  additional 
stewed  figs  or  cream,  or  sweetened  sliced  oranges. 

Prune  Whip 

Substitute  a  cupful  of  the  sifted  or  chopped  pulp  from 
cooked  prunes  for  the  figs  in  the  preceding  recipe,  and 
proceed  as  directed. 

Plain  Charlotte  Russe  Filling 

I  pint  of  heavy  cream  I  cupful,  sugar 

i  egg  white  I  teaspoonful  flavoring 

Whip  the  cream  until  solid,  and  combine  with  the  egg 
white,  beaten  until  dry.  Stir  in  the  sugar  and  flavor- 
ing. If  to  be  made  in  the  summer,  add  a  scant  ^  tea- 
spoonful  of  powdered  gelatine,  dissolved  in  cold  water  and 
melted  over  steam,  while  whipping. 

Chocolate  Charlotte  Russe  Filling 

Make  as  above,  adding  ij  tablespoonfuls  of  cocoa  to 
the  cream  while  whipping. 

Blackberry  Charlotte  Russe 

Line  sherbet  glasses  with  macaroons  or  lady  fingers, 
and  half-fill  with  slightly-crushed  and  well-sweetened 
blackberries.  Heap  with  a  plain  charlotte  mixture,  and 
garnish  the  top  of  each  serving  with  a  whole  blackberry. 

Apple  Charlotte  Russe 

i  cupful  heavy  cream  3  tablespoonfuls  powdered 

i  egg  white  sugar 

18  lady  fingers  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Baked  apple  sauce 


DESSERTS  541 

Whip  the  cream  until  stiff,  then  beat  the  egg  whites 
until  dry,  gradually  whipping  in  the  sugar.  Add  the  ex- 
tract, then  combine  with  the  cream,  folding  the  mixtures 
together.  Line  glass  cups  with  lady  fingers  or  strips  of 
sponge  or  angel  cake ;  place  a  tablespoonful  of  the  apple 
sauce  in  the  bottom  of  each  cup  and  fill  with  the  charlotte 
mixture.  Garnish  with  shredded  Maraschino  cherries. 
Serve  very  cold. 

Pineapple  Charlotte  E-usse 

Substitute  preserved  pineapple  for  the  apple  sauce  in 
the  preceding  recipe,  and  flavor  the  cream  with  orange 
extract. 

Raspberry  Charlotte  Russe 

6  large,  round,  sponge  cup  I  cupful  raspberry  juice  and 

cakes  pulp 

i  cupful  heavy  cream  Whole    raspberries    for   gar- 

I  cupful  powdered  sugar  nishing,  mixed  with  I  cup- 

ful sugar 

Hollow  the  sponge  cakes  to  represent  baskets.  Pre- 
pare the  raspberry  juice  and  pulp.  Let  stand  with  the 
sugar  until  smooth  (J  hour),  then  begin  to  beat  the 
cream.  When  partly  beaten,  add  the  powdered  sugar 
and,  gradually,  the  raspberry.  Whip  this  into  the  cream 
until  solid  to  the  bottom  of  the  bowl.  Pile  lightly  into 
the  sponge-cake  "  baskets  "  and  garnish  plentifully  with 
raspberries. 

May  Baskets 

i  cupful  heavy  cream  i  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

i  cupful  crushed  straw-  Deep  angel  cup  cakes 

berries  Whole  strawberries 

I  cupful  powdered  sugar  Strips  of  angelica 

Add  the  sugar  and  lemon  to  the  strawberries.  Beat 
the  cream  gradually,  whipping  in  the  strawberry  mixture. 
Hollow  out  the  cakes,  and  ice  them  in  white ;  make  han- 
dles of  the  angelica,  insert  and  fill  the  baskets  with  the 
cream.  Serve  on  lace  paper  doilies,  with  a  garnish  of 
whole  berries. 


542  MRS.  .ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

GENERAL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  GELATINES, 
SPONGES  AND  BAVARIAN  CREAMS 

It  is  not  at  all  necessary  to  follow  cut  and  dried  recipes 
in  the  making  of  gelatines,  if  one  keeps  constantly 
in  mind  the  fact  that  a  tablespoonful  of  powdered  gela- 
tine, dissolved  in  a  little  cold  water,  is  enough  to  stiffen 
a  pint  of  liquid.  For  a  fruit  gelatine  the  fruit  flavoring 
should  be  pronounced,  and  the  mixture  should  be  made  a 
little  sweeter  than  would  seem  necessary, —  that  is,  if  it 
is  tested  while  hot.  The  fruit  juices  should  never  be 
added  to  a  hot  liquid.  To  develop  a  gelatine  into  a 
sponge,  merely  reduce  one-fourth  the  amount  of  liquid 
necessary  to  make  a  pint,  adding,  when  cool,  one  or  two 
well-beaten  egg  whites ;  then  whip  the  whole  till  frothy, 
or  add  three-fourths  cupful  of  whipped  cream  to  make  a 
Bavarian  Cream. 

In  adding  fruits  to  a  gelatine,  they  should  be  stirred 
in  after  the  gelatine  begins  to  "  set,"  or  to  have  the  con- 
sistency of  an  egg  white.  However,  if  the  gelatine  is  to 
be  moulded,  and  it  is  desirable  to  have  a  particularly 
attractive  result,  a  thin  layer  of  the  gelatine  mixture 
should  be  poured  into  the  bottom  of  a  mould,  and  the 
mould  should  be  set  in  cracked  ice.  When  this  layer  has 
stiffened,  a  layer  of  fruit  shonld  be  set  in  place  in  an 
attractive  design,  and  a  little  more  gelatine  should  be 
poured  over  it.  When  this  has  become  slightly  "  set," 
more  fruit,  nuts,  or  whatever  is  to  be  used,  may  be  put  in 
position.  This  process  must  be  continued  until  the  mould 
is  complete. 

A  plain  lemon  or  orange  gelatine  offers  a  splendid  me- 
dium for  using  up  odds  and  ends  of  fresh  or  cooked 
fruit.  To  this  may  be  added  as  fancy  and  necessity  of 
balancing  the  meal  may  dictate,  quartered  dates,  broken 
nut  meats,  marshmallows,  etc. 

It  is  oftentimes  a  great  convenience  and  just  as  econom- 
ical to  use  commercially  prepared  quick  gelatine  mix- 
tures that  are  put-  in  packages  with  all  the  ingredients 
exactly  prepared  for^instant  use.  In  selecting  a  gelatine 
of  this  type  be  sure  that  it  is  of  undoubted  purity,  free 
from  coal  tar  dye,  and  flavored  with  genuine  condensed 
fruit  juices. 


DESSERTS  543 

TO  PREPARE  GELATINE  MOULDS 

The  gelatine  moulds  should  be  rubbed  lightly  with 
olive  oil  before  the  gelatine  is  put  in.  This  makes  the 
unmoulding  very  easy,  and  obviates  the  necessity  for  hot 
cloths,  dipping  the  moulds  in  hot  water,  and  the  like. 

Lemon  Jelly 

2  tablespoonfuls    granulated  2.\  cupfuls  boiling  water 

gelatine  I  cupful  sugar 

1  cupful  cold  water  i  cupful  lemon  juice 

Soak  the  gelatine  five  minutes  in  cold  water;  dissolve 
in  the  boiling  water,  strain  and  add  to  the  sugar ;  cook,  and 
add  the  lemon  juice.  Turn  into  moulds  and  chill.  Serve 
with  custard  or  stewed  or  sliced  and  sweetened  fruit. 

Orange  Jelly 

2  tablespoonfuls   granulated  i|  cupfuls  boiling  water 
gelatine  I  cupful  granulated  sugar 

1  cupful  cold  water  3  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 
ii  cupfuls  orange  juice 

Soak  the  gelatine  five  minutes  in  cold  water.  Dissolve 
in  the  boiling  water,  and  add  to  the  sugar,  cool  and  add 
the  fruit  juices ;  pour  into  mould  and  let  chill. 

Orange  and  Date  Jelly 

Prepare  the  mixture  for  Orange  Jelly,  add  a  little  nut- 
meg and,  when  beginning  to  congeal,  stir  in  eight  stoned 
and  quartered  dates,  and  the  sections  from  two  oranges. 

Coffee  Jelly 

2  tablespoonfuls    granulated  \  cupful  sugar 
gelatine                                             4  cupfuls  boiling  coffee 

i  cupful  cold  water  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  cold  water  five  minutes.  Dissolve 
the  sugar  in  the  coffee,  add  to  the  gelatine,  stir  until  dis- 
solved, flavor  and  turn  into  a  mould  to  stiffen. 

Caramel  Coffee  Wily 

4  cupfuls  boiling  coffee  2  tablespoonfuls    granulated 

I  cupful  granulated  sugar  gelatine 

\  teaspoonful  vanilla  extract          \  cupful  cold  water 

Caramelize  J  cupful  of  the  sugar,  and  add  to  the  boil- 


544  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

ing  coffee.  Cook  until  it  is  smooth.  In  the  meantime, 
soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  for  five  minutes,  dis- 
solve in  the  hot  coffee,  add  the  remaining  sugar  and 
vanilla  and  pour  into  moulds  to  chill.  Let  stand  several 
hours  to  become  firm.  Unmould  and  serve  with  whipped 
cream. 

Cider  Jelly 

2  tablespoonfuls  granulated  4  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 

gelatine  I  cupful  sugar 

1  cupful  cold  water  3i  cupfuls  sweet  cider 

Soften  the  gelatine  in  the  water  and  lemon  juice. 
Scald  a  little  of  the  cider  (about  ij  cupfuls),  add  the 
sugar  and  the  gelatine.  Stir  until  dissolved,  add  the  re- 
maining ingredients  and  pour  into  individual  moulds  to 
chill.  Serve  with  roast  ham,  turkey,  chicken  or  duck. 

Quick  Mint  Jelly 

2  tablespoonfuls  granulated  i  cupful  sugar 
gelatine                                            I  cupful  lemon  juice 

2^  cupfuls  boiling  water  I  bunch  fresh  mint 

£  cupful  cold  water 

Chop  the  mint  and  cook  rapidly  for  twenty  minutes  in 
the  boiling  water,  Add  the  sugar  and  the  gelatine  dis- 
solved in  the  cold  water ;  cool  and  add  the  lemon  juice. 
Strain  and  color  green,  if  desired,  with  vegetable  color- 
ing. Let  stand  in  individual  moulds  until  stiff.  Serve 
with  lamb. 

St.  Patrick's  Pudding 

2  cupfuls  rich  pineapple  2!  tablespoonfuls  gelatine, 

syrup  soaked  in 

i  cupful  orange  juice  3  tablespoonfuls  cold  water 

i  cupful  lemon  juice  Few  grains  salt 

Green  vegetable  coloring 

Make  a  gelatine  of  the  above  ingredients,  coloring  the 
mixture  green.  Place  a  mould  in  a  pan  of  ice  water  and 
pour  Jn  the  mixture  J-inch  deep.  When  firm,  set  a 
smaller  mould  of  the  same  design  in  place  and  fill  with 
ice  water.  Pour  gradually  the  remaining  jelly  mixture 
between  the  moulds,  until  it  reaches  within  one  inch  of 
the  top  of  the  smaller  mould.  When  stiff  remove  the 
mould  and  fill  the  space  with  a  cream  made  of  the  follow- 
ing ingredients  mixed  in  the  order  given : 


DESSERTS  545 

I  cupful  cream,  whipped  3  tablespoonfuls  powdered 

stiff  sugar 

I  cupful  pineapple,  diced  i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

\  cupful  marrons,  diced  2  tablespoonfuls  apricot  juice 
8  marshmallows,  quartered 

Pour  in  the  remaining  gelatine  mixture  to  fill  the  mould, 
let  set;  unmould,  and  serve  with  a  garnish  of  whipped 
cream  and  shamrock  leaves  cut  from  angelica  or  citron. 

Spanish  Cream 

ii  tablespoonfuls  granulated          \  cupful  sugar 

gelatine  Few  grains  salt 

3  cupfuls  milk  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

3  eggs 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  milk,  then  scald  it;  add  the 
sugar,  and  beat  the  egg  yolks  slightly.  Pour  on  this  the 
milk  mixture,  return  to  the  double  boiler  and  cook  like  a 
custard,  until  slightly  thickened.  Remove  from  the  heat, 
add  the  salt  and  flavoring  and  pour  onto  the  egg  whites, 
beaten  until  stiff.  Then  pour  into  individual  moulds  pre- 
pared as  for  gelatine.  If  to  be  moulded  in  a  large  re- 
ceptacle, increase  the  amount  of  gelatine  to  if  table- 
spoonfuls. 

Caramel  Spanish  Cream 

\  tablespoonful  granulated  i  cupful  boiling  water 

gelatine  I  cupful  sugar 

3  cupfuls  milk  Few  grains  salt 

3  eggs  \  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Scald  the  gelatine  with  the  milk.  In  the  meantime, 
caramelize  one-half  the  sugar,  add  the  boiling  water  and 
turn  into  the  milk  mixture.  Beat  the  egg  yolks  slightly, 
mix  with  the  remaining  sugar  and  the  salt,  pour  in  the 
milk  and  return  to  a  double  boiler,  cooking  until  thick- 
ened, stirring  constantly.  Remove  from  the  heat,  add 
the  vanilla  and  the  egg  whites,  whipped  stiff,  turn  into 
individual  moulds,  prepared  as  directed,  and  chill.  Serve 
with  caramel  almond  sauce  or  light  cream. 

Strawberry  Sponge 

i  tablespoonful  granulated  2  egg  whites 

gelatine  li  cupfuls  sugar 

4  tablespoonfuls  cold  water  2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 
6  tablespoonfuls  boiling  ij  cupfuls  mashed  straw- 
water  berries  and  juice 


546  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Soften  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  for  five  minutes, 
add  the  hot  water  and  set  over  steam  until  dissolved. 
Then  add  the  sugar  and,  when  cooled,  the  strawberry  and 
lemon  juice.  Set  in  ice  water  and  beat  occasionally, 
until  it  begins  to  "  set,"  then  add  the  stiffly  whipped  egg 
whites  and  beat  till  almost  stiff.  Turn  into  a  mould, 
which  has  been  oiled  as  directed,  let  chill,  unmould  and 
garnish  with  sweetened  whipped  cream  and  strawberry 
halves. 

Grape  Sponge 

2  tablespoonfuls    granulated  ii  cupfuls  boiling  water 

gelatine  2  egg  whites 

i  cupful  grape  juice  I  cupful  sugar 
i  cupful  lemon  juice 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  cold  water  to  cover  for  five  min- 
utes. Then  dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  boiling  water,  add 
the  gelatine  and  stir  over  hot  water  until  it  is  dissolved. 
Cool,  and  add  the  fruit  juices.  Set  in  cold  water  until  it 
begins  to  congeal.  Beat  the  egg  whites  light,  add  to  the 
gelatine,  beat  thoroughly,  and  set  aside  to  stiffen  in  a 
mould  prepared  as  directed.  Serve  with  whipped  cream, 
and  garnish  with  candied  violets  if  convenient. 

Coffee  Sponge  Cream 

ii  cupfuls  cold  coffee  2  eggs 

t  cupful  milk  jt  cupful  sugar 

i|  tablespoonfuls   granulated  4  teaspoonful  salt 

gelatine  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Add  the  gelatine,  one-half  the  sugar  and  the  milk  to  the 
coffee.  Heat  in  a  double  boiler,  then  beat  together  the 
remaining  sugar  and  the  egg  yolks;  combine  and  cook, 
stirring  constantly  till  it  coats  the  spoon.  Beat  the  egg 
whites  stiff,  add  the  vanilla  and  salt  and  pour  in  the  cus- 
tard mixture,  beating  all  the  time.  Turn  into  a  mould, 
oiled  as  directed,  and  chill.  Serve  with  sliced  bananas, 
or  whipped  cream. 

Cranberry  Sponge 

2  tablespoonfuls    granulated  2  tablespoonfnls  orange  juice 

gelatine  i  cupful  sugar 

\  cupful  cranberry  syrup  li  cupfuls  boiling  water 

2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice  2  egg  whites 


DESSERTS  547 

Put  the  gelatine  and  cranberry  syrup  together,  letting 
them  stand  five  minutes.  Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  boil- 
ing water,  add  the  gelatine  mixture  and  stir  over  hot 
water  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved.  Cool  and  add  the 
fruit  juices.  Beat  the  egg  whites  light,  add  to  the  gela- 
tine mixture  when  it  has  begun  to  stiffen,  and  beat  all 
briskly  with  an  egg-beater,  until  fluffy  and  of  a  pale  pink 
color.  Pour  into  a  prepared  mould  to  stiffen,  and  serve 
surrounded  with  cranberry  syrup  containing  the  berries. 

Coffee  Sponge 

2  tablespoonfuls    granulated  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

gelatine  2  egg  whites 

2  cupfuls  strong  coffee  Few  grains  salt 

1  cupful  sugar 

Prepare  a  gelatine  mixture  of  the  first  three  ingre- 
dients. When  beginning  to  congeal,  add  the  egg  whites 
beaten  stiff  with  the  vanilla  and  salt.  Whip  until  cream- 
colored  and  let  stiffen  in  a  mould  prepared  as  directed. 
Serve  with  soft  custard  or  cream. 

Snow  Pudding 

2  tablespoonfuls  granulated  ii  cupfuls  boiling  water 
gelatine                                            f  cupful  sugar 

£  cupful  lemon  juice  2  egg  whites 

i  cupful  orange  juice  (op- 
tional) 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  cold  water  to  cover  for  five  min- 
utes. Add  to  the  boiling  water,  stir  over  hot  water  till  dis- 
solved, if  necessary,  and  add  the  sugar;  then  cool,  turn 
in  the  fruit  juices,  and  let  "  set "  until  of  the  'consistency 
of  an  egg  white.  Beat  the  egg  whites  dry,  add  to  the 
gelatine  mixture  and  whip  till  white  and  frothy.  Pour 
into  a  mould  prepared  as  directed  and  let  stiffen;  serve 
with  a  soft  custard,  made  with  the  egg  yolks. 

Jellied  Apples 

ij  tablespoonfuls  granulated  2  cupfuls  sugar 

gelatine  Juice  i  orange 

£  cupful  cold  water  Juice  i  lemon 

6  tart  apples  2  cupfuls  boiling  water 

Mix  together  the  sugar  and  boiling  water.  Add  the 
apples,  quartered,  put  in  a  baking  dish  in  the  oven,  cover- 


548  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

ing  closely,  and  bake  until  pink.  Put  the  apples  in  a 
mould,  add  the  gelatine  to  the  apple  juice,  cool  it  and  add 
the  fruit  juices,  color  pink,  if  desired,  with  vegetable 
coloring,  and  set  aside  to  become  firm  in  a  mould  prepared 
as  directed.  Serve  with  soft  custard  or  whipped  cream, 
flavored  and  sweetened. 

Jellied  Pears 

i  pound  dried  pears  Juice  i  orange 

I  quart  cold  water  2  tablespoonfuls    granulated 
i  cupful  sugar  gelatine    soaked    in 

Juice  i  lemon  i  cupful  cold  water 

Soak  the  pears  over  night  in  the  water,  then  cook 
slowly  until  tender,  in  the  same  water.  Remove  the  pears 
and  take  out  the  cores,  then  cut  the  pulp  up  coarsely  and 
return  it  to  the  syrup.  Sweeten,  bring  to  boiling  point 
and  add  the  gelatine;  cool,  add  the  fruit  juices  and  pour 
into  a  mould  prepared  as  directed.  Serve  with  boiled 
custard  or  whipped  cream. 

Jellied  Dried  Apricots 

4  cupfuls  cooked  dried  apri-  2  tablespoonfuls  granulated 

cots  and  juice,  unsweetened  gelatine,    softened    in 

1  cupful  sugar  i  cupful  water 

2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 

Heat  the  apricots  to  boiling  point,  add  the  sugar  and 
stew  for  ten  minutes,  then  add  the  gelatine ;  cool  and  add 
the  lemon  juice.  Turn  into  a  mould,  prepared  as 
directed,  let  stiffen  and  serve  with  apricot  whip. 

Jellied  Prunes 

3  cupfuls  cooked,  stoned  i  cupful  cold  water 
prunes  and  their  juice                   2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 

ii  tablespoonfuls  granulated          Sugar  to  taste 
gelatine 

Bring  the  prunes  to  boiling  point,  and  sweeten  to  taste. 
In  the  meantime,  soften  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  and 
add  it  to  the  prune  juice.  When  cool,  stir  in  the  lemon 
juice  and  pour  into  a  prepared  mould  to  stiffen.  Serve 
with  top  milk  or  light  cream. 

Jellied  Figs 
Jellied  Figs  may  be  prepared  according  to  the  preced- 


DESSERTS  549 

ing  recipe  by  substituting  cooked  figs  with  their  juice  for 
the  prunes,  and  adding  a  tablespoonful  of  orange  juice. 

Jellied  Strawberries 

I  cupful  strawberry  juice  2  tablespoonfuls  gelatine, 

and  pulp  soaked  in 

i  cupful  halved  strawberries  4  tablespoonfuls  cold  water 

i  cupful  boiling  water  I  cupful  sugar 
i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

Add  the  boiling  water  to  the  soaked  gelatine.  Stir 
until  dissolved,  and  add  the  sugar;  cool,  and  add  the 
lemon  juice  and  strawberry  juice.  When  beginning  to 
set,  turn  in  the  halved  berries,  stir  gently  and  pour  into  a 
mould,  prepared  as  directed,  to  stiffen.  Serve  with 
cream. 

Mixed  Fruit  Jelly 

2i  tablespoonfuls  granu-  6  figs   (diced) 

lated  gelatine  2  whole   oranges    (in   sec- 
i  cupful  cold  water  tions) 

2i  cupfuls  boiling  water  I  cupful  seeded  and  halved 
i  cupful  sugar  Malaga  grapes 

1  cupful  lemon  juice  i  cupful  candied  cherries, 

2  slices  canned  pineapple  halved 
(diced) 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  cold  water  until  softened.  Dis- 
solve in  the  boiling  water,  add  the  sugar  and  cool.  Then 
add  the  lemon  juice  and  strain  the  mixture.  Oil  the 
mould  as  directed,  and  pour  in  a  little  of  the  mixture ; 
when  it  is  slightly  stiffened,  arrange  on  it  a  design  of 
orange  sections,  with  the  grapes  and  cherries.  Pour  in  a 
little  more  jelly,  just  enough  to  set  this  in  place,  and, 
when  stiff,  add  more  fruit.  Continue  until  all  is  used. 
Let  stiffen  and  serve  with  whipped  cream. 

Malaga  Grape  Surprise 

2\  tablespoonfuls    granu-  2  cupfuls  boiling  water 

lated  gelatine  i  cupful  sugar 

2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice  i  cupful  seeded  and  skinned 

ii  cupfuls  grape  juice  Malaga  grapes 
i  cupful  orange  juice 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  cold  water  to  cover  five  minutes. 
Add  the  boiling  water  and  sugar,  stirring  until  the  gela- 
tine is  dissolved.  Cool,  and  add  the  fruit  juices.  Then 


550  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

strain  and  set  in  a  cold  place.  When  beginning  to  con- 
geal, stir  the  grapes  in  lightly,  and  let  stiffen  in  high 
sherbet  glasses.  Serve  with  whipped  cream,  sweetened 
and  flavored  with  orange. 

Grapefruit  Gelatine 

1  pint  boiling  water  i  cupful  cold  water 

2  tablespoonfuls  granulated  I  cupful  sugar 
gelatine  soaked  in                         Juice  I   large  grapefruit 

Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  the  boiling  water.  Add  the 
sugar  and,  when  cooled,  the  fruit  juice.  Strain,  mould 
and  chill.  Serve  with  meats. 

Rhubarb  Gelatine 

1  quart  diced   rhubarb  2  tablespoonfuls    granulated 

2  cupfuls  sugar  gelatine,  dissolved  in 

2  cupfuls  water  i  cupful  cold  water 
Juice  and  rind  of  2-  lemons 

Put  the  rhubarb  in  a  baking  dish  with  the  sugar  and 
water.  Cover  closely  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  till  tender 
and  pink.  Strain,  reserving  the  pulp  to  serve  as  a  gar- 
nish to  the  gelatine.  There  should  be  one  quart  of  liquid. 
Add  the  gelatine,  and,  when  cooled,  the  lemon  juice. 
Pour  into  a  mould  prepared  as  directed.  Let  set,  and, 
when  firm,  serve  with  the  sauce. 

Plain  Bavarian  Cream 

t  cupful  sugar  I  cupful  heavy  cream 

2*  egg  whites  I  tablespoonful  gelatine, 

\  cupful  boiling  water  soaked  in 

Few  grains  salt  2  tablespoonfuls  cold  water 
I  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  for  five  minutes ;  then  add  the 
gelatine  and  turn  onto  the  egg  whites,  whipped  stiff,  beat- 
ing constantly  until  cold.  Then  fold  in  the  vanilla  and 
the  cream,  whipped  stiff,  and  pour  into  a  mould  prepared 
as  directed.  Serve  with  a  caramel  or  fruit  sauce. 

Orange-Rice  Bavarian 

3  cupfuls  milk        -  i  cupful  uncoated  rice 
I  teaspoonful    salt  (blanched) 

li  tablespoonfuls    gelatine  \  cupful  sugar 

i  teaspoonful  orange  flavor-  \  cupful  cold  water 

ing  I  cupful  heavy  cream, 

%  cupful  chopped,  candied  whipped 

orange  peel 


DESSERTS  551 

Scald  the  milk  with  the  orange  peel;  add  the  rice  and 
salt.  Cook  until  the  rice  is  tender.  Then  add  the  sugar 
and  gelatine  which  has  been  soaking  in  ^  cupful  cold 
water  and  has  then  been  dissolved  over  hot  water.  Cool 
the  mixture  and  flavor.  When  it  begins  to  set,  fold  in 
the  whipped  cream,  and  turn  into  a  mould,  prepared  as 
directed.  Chill  and  serve  with  fruit  compote  (mixture 
of  fresh  fruits),  well-sweetened. 

Strawberry  Bavarian  Cream 

2  cupfuls  strawberry  juice  ij  tablespoonfuls   granulated 

li  cupfuls   powdered    sugar  gelatine  soaked  in 

2  cupfuls  heavy  cream  4  cupful  cold  water 

Dissolve  the  gelatine  over  hot  water.  Add  to  the 
strawberry  juice,  and  let  stand  until  beginning  to  congeal. 
Whip  the  cream,  beating  in  the  sugar-.  Combine  the 
mixtures,  folding  in  the  cream,  and  fill  individual  moulds 
prepared  as  directed.  Let  set,  and  serve,  garnished  with 
whole  berries,  with  cream,  or  with  cold  orange  sauce. 

Raspberry  Bavarian  Cream 

Substitute  raspberries  for  the  strawberries  in  the  recipe 
for  Strawberry  Bavarian  Cream. 

Peach  Bavarian  Cream 

2  cupfuls  milk  I  cupful  peach  pulp 

ii  tablespoonfuls  gelatine,  \  cupful  sugar 

dissolved  in  2  egg  yolks 

\  cupful  cold  water  2  egg  whites 

i  cupful  cream  I  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

Scald  the  milk,  and  pour  slowly  over  the  egg  yolks, 
well-beaten  and  mixed  with  the  sugar ;  return  to  a  double 
boiler  and  cook  till  it  coats  the  spoon.  Add  the  gelatine 
and  cool.  Whip  the  cream  stiff,  add  the  egg  whites, 
whipped  dry,  and  fold  into  the  custard.  Add  the  peach 
pulp,  which  has  been  sweetened  to  taste,  and  the  lemon 
juice.  Pour  into  a  mould  prepared  as  directed,  and  let 
stiffen.  Serve  with  additional  sliced  and  sugared  peaches. 


552  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Coffee  Bavarian  Cream 

2i  cupfuls  rich  milk  I  cupful  sugar 

4  tablespoonfuls  ground  Few  grains  salt 

coffee  \  teaspoonful  vanilla 

2  tablespoonfuls  gelatine  2  eggs 

soaked  in  i  cupful  heavy  cream 
i  cupful  cold  water 

Scald  the  coffee  in  the  milk,  and  strain  through  a 
cheesecloth.  Separate  the  eggs  and  beat  the  yolks 
slightly.  Beat  the  sugar  into  them,  add  the  salt,  stir  the 
mixture  into  the  scalded  milk,  cooking  until  thickened 
like  custard.  Add  the  soaked  gelatine  and  stir  until  dis- 
solved, then  set  in  cold  water.  Beat  the  egg  whites  light, 
whip  the  cream  solid,  and  combine  them.  When  the 
custard  mixture  has  begun  to  congeal,  fold  in  the  cream 
mixture  and  the  vanilla.  Pour  into  a  mould  prepared  as 
directed,  and  let  "  set  "  like  gelatine  in  a  cold  place. 

Maple  Bavarian  Cream 

i  cupful  maple  syrup  i  tablespoon ful  granulated 

4  egg  yolks  gelatine  soaked  in 

i  pint  heavy  cream  &  cupful  cold  water 

Scald  the  syrup  and  pour  slowly  into  the  beaten  egg 
yolks,  whipping  constantly.  Return  to  a  double  boiler 
and  cook  until  the  mixture  will  coat  the  spoon  like  cus- 
tard; then  add  the  gelatine.  Put  in  a  cool  place,  and, 
when  the  mixture  begins  to  congeal,  fold  in  the  cream, 
and  let  stand  till  stiff  in  a  mould  prepared  as  directed. 

Ginger  Bavarian  Cream 

1  cupful  sugar  I  cupful  orange  juice  and 

2  egg  whites  pulp 

i  cupful  boiling  water  i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

Few  grains  salt  ii  cupfuls  heavy  cream 

I  cupful  preserved  ginger,  i£  tablespoonfuls  gelatine, 

chopped  fine  soaked  in 

2  tablespoonfuls   cold  water 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  for  five  minutes.  Then  add 
the  gelatine  and  turn  onto  the  egg  whites,  beaten  stiff, 
whipping  constantly  until  cold.  Then  beat  the  cream 
stiff,  gradually  adding  the  orange  and  lemon  and  finally 
the  ginger.  Fold  in  the  gelatine  mixture,  and  pour  the 
Bavarian  into  a  prepared  mould  to  stiffen.  Serve  with 


DESSERTS  j  553 

whipped  cream,  flavored  with  ginger  syrup,  and  garnish 
with  candied  cherries  and  sliced  preserved  ginger. 

Caramel  Bavarian  Cream 

f  cupful  sugar  ii  cupfuls  heavy  cream 

2  egg  yolks,  or  i  egg  I  tablespoonful  gelatine, 

i  cupful  boiling  water  soaked  in  water  to  cover 

i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Caramelize  £  cupful  of  the  sugar  and  add  to  it  the 
boiling  water;  when  dissolved,  turn  onto  the  egg  yolks, 
slightly  beaten  and  mixed  with  the  remaining  sugar,  and 
cook  until  thick,  like  custard.  Add  the  gelatine,  and 
slightly  chill  the  mixture. 

When  beginning  to  congeal,  fold  in  the  cream  which 
has  been  whipped  stiff  with  the  vanilla.  Pour  into  a 
mould  which  has  been  prepared  as  directed,  and  let 
stiffen.  Serve  with  a  garnish  of  browned  almonds  and  a 
caramel  sauce. 

Banana  Bavarian  Cream 

ii  cupfuls  sifted  banana  I  cupful  sugar 

pulp  li  tablespoon  fuls  gelatine 

ij  tablespoonfuls  lemon  1  cupful  cold  water 

juice  i  cupful  heavy  cream 

I  cupful  orange  juice 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  cold  water  for  five  minutes  and 
dissolve  over  hot  water.  In  the  meantime,  put  the 
banana  through  a  potato  ricer,  and  heat  in  a  double 
boiler.  Add  the  sugar  to  this,  and  then  the  gelatine. 
Cool  a  little  and  turn  in  the  fruit  juices.  When  begin- 
ning to  congeal,  whip  the  cream  and  fold  into  it.  Pour 
into  individual  moulds,  prepared  as  directed,  and  let 
stiffen.  Serve  with  additional  whipped  cream. 

Grape  Juice  Bavarian  Cream 

3  tablespoonfuls  granulated  i£  cupfuls  heavy  cream 
gelatine                                            Lady  fingers 

\  cupful  cold  water  Candied  violets 

i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice  Whipped  cream  for  decorat- 

i  cupful  grape  juice  ing 

k  cupful   boiling   water 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  for  five  minutes, 
add  the  boiling  water,  and,  if  not  dissolved,  set  over  steam 


554  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

until  liquified.  Cool  a  little,  add  the  fruit  juices  and 
stand  in  cold  water  until  it  begins  to  congeal,  then  fold 
in  the  beaten  cream.  In  the  meantime,  chill  a  mould. 
Line  it  with  lady  ringers,  turn  in  the  grape  mixture,  and 
let  it  stiffen.  Unmould  and  garnish  with  extra  cream 
and  the  candied  violets. 


CHAPTER  XX 
SWEET  SAUCES 

ALL   MEASUREMENTS   ARE   LEVEL 

Plain  Hard  Sauce 

\  cupful  butter  \  teaspoonful  vanilla 

2  cupfuls  sifted  powdered  or          J  teaspoonful  lemon  extract 
confectioner's  sugar 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and,  gradually,  .work  in  the. 
sugar  and  flavoring. 

Hard  Egg  Sauce 

Observe  the  proportions  used  in  the  preceding  recipe 
for  Hard  Sauce,  adding  a  beaten  egg  alternately  with  the 
sugar  to  the  mixture. 

Hard  Peach  Sauce 

4  cupful  butter  i  egg  white 

ii  cupfuls  sifted  powdered  £  cupful  peach  pulp  and 

or  confectioner's  sugar  juice  mixed 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream.  Gradually  add  the  sugar 
and  the  egg  white,  beaten  stiff  and  dry,  and  work  in  the 
fruit,  slowly,  so  that  the  mixture  will  not  be  curdled. 

Hard  Strawberry  Sauce 

Observe  the  proportions  used  in  making  Hard  Peach 
Sauce,  substituting  ^  cupful  of  crushed  and  sweetened 
strawberries  for  the  peach  pulp. 

Hard  Apricot  Sauce 

Observe  the  proportions  for  making  Hard  Peach 
Sauce,  substituting  apricot  pulp  and  juice  for  the  peaches. 

Hard  Cranberry  Sauce 

Observe  the  proportions  used  in  making  Hard  Peach 
Sauce,  substituting  J  cupful  of  sweetened  and  sifted 
cooked  cranberries  for  the  peach  juice  and  pulp. 

555 


556  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Hard  Brown  Sugar  Sauce 

I  cupful  butter  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

i  cupful  brown  sugar  4  tablespoonfuls  rich  milk  or 

cream 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar,  gradually;  then  the 
milk  and  flavoring  drop  by  drop  to  prevent  separation. 

Hard  Ginger  Sauce 

i  cupful  butter  Juice  i  lemon 

li  cupfuls  light  brown  sugar          \  teaspoonful  ginger 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream.  Work  in  the  sugar  and 
ginger,  and,  gradually,  the  lemon  juice.  If  the  latter  is 
added  rapidly,  the  mixture  will  separate. 

Custard  Sauce 

I  cupful  milk  \  teaspoonful  flavoring 

1  egg  or  2  egg  yolks  Few  grains  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar 

Scald  the  milk,  mix  together  the  egg  and  sugar,  pour 
the  milk  into  this  and  return  to  the  double  boiler,  stirring 
till  it  coats  the  spoon.  Cool,  add  salt  and  flavoring  and 
strain  if  necessary. 

Foamy  Grape  Sauce 

2  egg  whites  \  cupful  grape  juice 

t  cupful  sifted  powdered  Juice  \  orange 

sugar  Juice  \  lemon 

Beat  the  egg  whites  stiff;  whip  in  the  sugar  and  fruit 
juices  and  beat  well.  Serve  at  once. 

Foamy  Orange  Sauce 

Observe  the  proportions  used  in  making  Foamy  Grape 
Sauce,  substituting  the  juice  and  rind  of  a  whole  orange 
for  the  orange  and  grape  juice  mentioned  in  the  Grape 
Sauce  recipe. 

.  Hot  Foamy  Sauce 

i£  teaspoonfuls  corn  starch  i  egg  white 

\  cupful  sugar  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

I  cupful  boiling  water 

Mix  the  corn  starch  and  sugar  thoroughly.  Pour  over 
this  the  boiling  water  and  boil  five  minutes.  Then  pour 


SWEET  SAUCES  557 

gradually    onto    the    egg    white,    beaten    stiff;    add   the 
vanilla  and  serve  hot. 

Strawberry  Sauce 

i£  cupfuls  powdered  sugar  ii  cupfuls  crushed  fresh 

5  tablespoonfuls   butter  strawberries,  or  drained 

i  egg  white  .  strawberries 

Beat  the  sugar  and  butter  together  to  a  cream ;  add  the 
egg  white,  beaten  stiff,  then  the  berries  and  beat  until 
well-blended. 

Raspberries,  loganberries,  or  sifted  peach  pulp  may 
be  substituted  for  the  strawberries. 

Hot  Foamy  Fruit  Sauce 

t  cupful  boiling  water  I  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

i  cupful  jam  (strawberry,  I  egg  white 

peach  or  apricot)  i  cupful  sugar 

Boil  the  water,  jam  and  sugar  for  five  minutes.  Add 
the  lemon  juice,  then  pour  gradually  onto  the  well- 
beaten  egg  white,  whipping  all  the  time.  Serve  at  once. 

Caramel  Sauce 

i  cupful  granulated  sugar  i  cupful  boiling  water 

Caramelize  the  sugar;  when  melted,  add  the  boiling 
water  and  simmer  for  thirty  minutes.  Serve  hot  or 
cold.  If  desired,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  hickory 
nuts  or  walnuts  may  be  added. 

Caramel  Almond  Sauce 

Make  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  adding  a  half  cupful 
of  shredded  and  toasted  almonds,  and  a  few  drops  of 
vanilla. 

Marshmallow  Golden  Sauce 

I  cupful  brown  sugar  i  cupful  quartered  marsh- 

ii  cupfuls  boiling  water  mallows 

Few  drops  vanilla 

Simmer  the  sugar  and  water  for  twenty  minutes. 
Then  pour  onto  the  marshmallows,  beating  well.  Add 
the  vanilla  and  serve  at  once. 


558  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Golden  Sauce 

i  cupful  brown  sugar  2  egg  yolks,  slightly  beaten 

I  cupful  boiling  water  Few  drops  vanilla 

Simmer  the  sugar  and  water  for  twenty  minutes. 
Have  the  egg  yolks  well-beaten,  and  turn  onto  them  the 
sugar  mixture,  slowly,  beating  all  the  time ;  serve  hot. 

Molasses  Sauce 

I  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses          i  tablespoonful  vinegar 
i  cupful  hot  water 

Boil  together  five  minutes  and  serve. 

Maple  Sauce 

I  cupful  maple  syrup  i  cupful  English  walnut 

meats 

Simmer  the  syrup  till  reduced  one-fourth.  Add  the 
walnuts  and  serve  hot  on  ice  cream,  or  ice  cold  with 
baked  custard. 

Lemon  Sauce 

I  cupful  sugar  ii  tablespoonfuls  butter 

ii  cupfuls  boiling  water  ii  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 

ii  tablespoonfuls  corn  Few  grains  nutmeg 
starch 

Mix  the  sugar  and  corn  starch  together ;  add  the  water 
gradually;  boil  for  five  minutes,  remove  from  the  heat, 
and  add  the  remaining  ingredients. 

Vanilla  Sauce 

Make  according  to  the  directions  for  Lemon  Sauce, 
substituting  a  half  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  for  the  lemon 
juice. 

Raisin  Sauce 

Add  a  fourth  cupful  of  halved  raisins  to  the  water  in 
Lemon  Sauce,  then  proceed  as  directed. 

Lemon  Egg  Sauce 

I  tablespoonful  flour  i£  cupfuls  boiling  water 

f  cupful  sugar  i  egg,  well-beaten 

ii  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 

Mix  the  sugar  and  flour  thoroughly  in  a  saucepan. 
Add  the  boiling  water  and  boil  three  minutes.  Then  add 


SWEET  SAUCES  559 

the  lemon  juice  and  pour  the  mixture  slowly  over  a  well- 
beaten  egg.     Serve  warm. 

Pineapple  Sauce 

i  cupful  hot  water  i  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

\  cupful  shredded  pine-  i  teaspoonful  butter 

apple  \  tablespoonful  corn  starch 

\  cupful  sugar 

Mix  together  the  corn  starch,  butter  and  sugar.  Add 
the  pineapple  and  water  mixed  and  boil  for  five  minutes, 
stirring  constantly.  Then  add  the  lemon  juice  and  serve 
hot. 

Raspberry  Sauce 

2%  cupfuls  red  raspberries  i  tablespoonful  corn  starch 

(canned  or  stewed)  dissolved  in 

i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice  i  cupful  cold  water 
Sugar  to  taste 

Strain  off  the  raspberry  juice,  and  thicken  with  the 
corn  starch.  There  should  be  one  cupful.  Add  the 
lemon  juice,  the  whole  raspberries  and  sugar,  if  neces- 
sary, and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Hot  Strawberry  Sauce 

1  cupful  strawberry  juice  \  tablespoonful  corn  starch 
£  tablespoonful  lemon  juice            \  to  \  cupful  sugar,  as  needed 

Mix  the  fruit  juices  and  bring  to  boiling  point.  Dis- 
solve the  corn  starch  in  a  little  cold  water,  add  to  the 
hot  mixture,  sweeten  as  needed,  and  let  boil.  Serve  hot. 

Hot  Apricot  Sauce 

£  cupful  sifted  apricot  Sugar  to  make  very  sweet — 

pulp  about  \  cupful 

6  tablespoonfuls   water  i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

Simmer  together  the  apricot,  sugar  and  water  for  ten 
minutes.  Add  the  lemon  juice  and  serve. 

Peach  Sauce 

2  cupfuls  sliced,  canned  i  tablespoonful  corn  starch 
peaches  and  juice  i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

Sugar  to  taste 

Heat  the  peach  juice,  thicken  with  the  corn  starch 
mixed  with  a  little  cold  water,  add  the  lemon  and  sliced 
peaches,  and  sweeten  to  taste.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 


560  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Rich  Chocolate  Sauce 

i£  cupfuls  boiling  water  ii  tablespoonfuls  corn 

4  cupful  sugar  starch 

6  tablespoonfuls  shaved  4  cupful  cold  water 

chocolate  or  Few  grains  salt 

i  cupful  cocoa  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Boil  the  hot  water  and  sugar  five  minutes.  Mix  the 
chocolate  with  the  corn  starch  and  cold  water.  Com- 
bine the  mixtures,  add  the  salt  and  boil  three  minutes 
Flavor  with  vanilla,  and  serve  hot  or  cold. 

The  Beating  of  Cream 

Every  section  of  the  country  has  on  sale  different  kinds 
of  cream,  but,  generally  speaking,  light,  or  single,  cream, 
is  chosen  for  coffee,  or  as  an  accompaniment  to  cereals, 
fruits,  or  desserts,  while  heavy,  or  double,  cream  is  used 
for  whipping. 

When  cream  is  to  be  whipped,  it  should  be  chilled, 
placed  in  a  deep  pitcher  or  bowl  and  beaten  quickly  with 
a  Dover  egg-beater.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  over- 
beat  it,  or  it  will  turn  granular,  and  almost  to  butter.  A 
great  many  cream  whips  are  on  the  market,  but  it  would 
seem  an  unnecessary  expense  to  buy  one,  when  the  work 
can  be  done  so  effectively  with  an  ordinary  egg-beater. 
If  the  whipped  cream  does  not  need  to  be  very  stiff,  it 
may  be  diluted  with  one-quarter  or  even  one-half  its  bulk 
of  rich  milk.  Powdered  or  confectioner's  sugar  should 
be  added  half  way  during  the  beating,  and  the  desired 
flavoring  during  the  latter  part. 

If  the  cream  is  to  stand  any  length  of  time,  dissolve 
a  scant  half  teaspoonful  of  powdered  gelatine  in  a  little 
cold  water,  steam  it  over  hot  water,  cool,  and  stir  it 
gradually  into  the  cream  while  whipping.  This  is  a  good 
plan  to  follow  when  making  a  cream  cake. 

Flavoring  Whipped  Cream 

Care  must  be  taken  not  to  overflavor  the  cream. 
Maraschino  flavoring  or  a  dilution  of  a  little  very  strong 
coffee,  instead  of  the  milk,  gives  a  delicious  flavor. 
Melted  chocolate,  which  has  been  allowed  to  cool,  may  be 
stirred  in,  together  with  a  few  drops  of  vanilla,  or  the 
dilution  may  take  the  form  of  crushed  and  sifted  rasp- 


SWEET  SAUCES  561 

berries,  peach  pulp,  fruit  pulp  of  any  other  fruit  desired 
according  to  the  dish  which  it  is  to  accompany. 

Honey  Whipped  Cream 

i  cupful  heavy  cream  \  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

f  cupful  honey 

Combine  the  ingredients  and  whip  until  stiff. 


CHAPTER  XXI 
FROZEN  DESSERTS 

ALL   MEASUREMENTS   ARE   LEVEL 

All  the  frozen  desserts  may  be  classified  under  the  gen- 
eral term  "  Ices  "  and  are  either  water  ices  or  cream  ices. 
Plain  water  ices  consist  of  sugar  syrups,  combined  with 
fruit  juices,  while  sherbets  are  water  ices,  to  which  gela- 
tine or  whipped  egg  whites  have  been  added.  Cream 
ices  include  Philadelphia,  custard  and  junket  creams, 
milk  sherbets,  frozen  chocolate,  mousses  and  parfaits. 

The  principle  underlying  successful  freezing  is  that  of 
latent  heat,  or  evaporation,  the  ice  being  combined  with 
some  material  like  salt  that  will  cause  it  to  melt,  and 
thereby  lower  the  temperature  below  the  thirty-two  de- 
grees of  the  ice.  This  causes  fluids  to  become  solidfied 
by.  converting  their  watery  particles  to  ice,  and  whether 
or  not  the  mixture  is  to  be  smooth,  coarse  or  grainy,  or 
half-frozen,  depends  on  the  manner  of  freezing,  the 
amount  of  ice  and  salt  to  be  used,  and  whether  or  not 
they  are  stirred  during  the  process. 

Unless  one  owns  an  ice  crusher,  which  costs  about  five 
dollars  (and  worth  the  price  if  much  ice  cream  is  made) 
there  is  no  better  way  to  crush  ice  than  by  using  a  wooden 
mallet  and  a  canvas  bag.  If  a  small  quantity  is  to  be 
made,  it  perhaps  is  as  easy  to  chip  the  ice  with  an  ice 
pick. 

Proportions  of  Ice  and  Salt  for  Freezing 

The  amount  of  ice  and  salt  necessary  for  freezing  de- 
pends upon  the  desired  texture  of  the  dessert  being  made. 
All  ice  creams,  water  ices  and  sherbets  should  be  frozen 
in  three  parts  of  ice  to  one  part  of  salt,  by  measure. 
Frappes,  which  are  of  coarse  texture,  should  be  frozen  in 
equal  parts  of  ice  and  salt;  and  mousses  and  parfaits, 
which  are  creams  frozen  without  stirring,  should  be 
packed  in  equal  parts  of  ice  and  salt.  In  packing  cream, 

562 


FROZEN  DESSERTS  563 

ices,  sherbets,  etc.,  after  freezing,  use  four  parts  of  ice 
to  one  part  of  salt,  and  let  stand  at  least  an  hour  to 
mould. 

Freezing  Creams 

Fill  the  freezer  can  only  three-fourths  full,  as  the  ice 
increases  in  bulk  during  the  freezing,  and,  if  the  can  is 
crowded,  the  dessert  will  be  coarse  grained.  Then  set 
the, can  in  place,  adjust  the  dasher  and  handle,  and  pack 
in  layers  with  ice  and  salt,  to  the  top,  if  the  freezer  is  to 
be  filled ;  just  cover  the  mixture  line,  if  a  smaller  amount 
is  being  prepared.  Then  set  the  freezer  in  a  dish  pan  on 
a  table  or  stool,  so  that  it  will  be  of  convenient  height, 
and  turn  the  crank,  slowly  at  first,  then  more  rapidly, 
when  the  ice  is  frozen  to  a  mush.  If  cream  is  to  be 
frozen  frequently,  a  stationary  box  of  correct  height 
with  screw  eyes  should  be  arranged.  The  freezer  should 
have  two  links  attached,  so  that  it  will  not  be  necessary  to 
hold  it  during  the  freezing  process.  The  water  should 
never  be  drawn  off,  unless  it  is  liable  to  overflow  into  the 
can,  for  it  is  extremely  cold  and  is  the  vehicle  which 
freezes  the  cream.  It  should  freeze  in  fifteen  to  twenty 
minutes,  if  a  modern  freezer  is  used.  When  the  cream 
is  done,  draw  off  the  water,  remove  and  scrape  the  dasher, 
cork  the  top  of  the  can,  and  re-pack;  then  cover  with 
sacking  or  old  carpet  to  retain  the  cold  air,  and  let  stand 
to  become  smooth  or  "  ripen." 

Packing  and  Freezing  Mousses  and  Parfaits 

Dip  the  mould  in  cold  water,  fill  with  the  mixture, 
cover  with  paraffine  paper  and  press  on  the  lid,  letting 
the  paper  project.  If  the  lid  fits  tight,  no  further  sealing 
is  necessary,  but,  if  it  is  a  little  loose,  bind  the  opening 
with  adhesive  tape,  or  smear  it  with  lard,  and  bind 
around  with  a  strip  of  cloth. 

Pack  in  equal  parts  of  ice  and  salt,  packing  them  in 
layers  rather  than  mixing  together.  Let  stand  from 
three  to  four  hours  to  become  solid. 

Moulding  Ices 

Have  the  mould  chilled,  and  pack  in  the  frozen  mixture 
Very  solidly,  heaping  it  slightly  above  the  edges.  Cover 


564  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

with  waxed  paper,  which  protrudes  a  little  over  the  edge, 
and  close  the  mould.  Bury  as  directed  in  four  parts  of 
ice  to  one  of  salt.  To  unmould,  rinse  with  cold  water,  re- 
move the  cover,  invert  the  mould  on  the  service  platter 
and  let  it  stand  exposed  to  the  heat  of  the  room  for  a  few 
moments. 

Philadelphia  Ice  Cream 

2  cupfuls  light  cream,  scalded          I  pint  light  cream,  chilled 
i  cupful  granulated  sugar  i  tablespoonful  vanilla 

Scald  the  first  pint  of  cream  and  sugar  together,  chill, 
add  the  remaining  cream,  and  vanilla.  Freeze  in  three 
parts  ice  to  one  part  salt. 

Cocoa  Ice  Cream 

Prepare  the  mixture  for  Philadelphia  Ice  Cream,  add 
four  tablespoon fuls  of  cocoa  dissolved  in  warm  water  to 
the  cream  while  it  is  cooling.  Freeze  as  directed. 

Grape-Nut  Ice  Cream 

Prepare  the  mixture  for  Philadelphia  Ice  Cream,  add- 
ing a  cupful  of  grape  nuts  after  the  mixture  has  been 
entirely  put  together.  Let  chill,  and  freeze  as  directed. 

Peppermint  Ice  Cream 

Prepare  the  mixture  for  Philadelphia  Ice  Cream,  omit- 
ting half  the  sugar  and  substituting  instead  -J  pound  pure 
red  and  white  peppermint  stick  candy  which  has  been 
crushed  to  powder. 

Banana  Pecan  Ice  Cream 

To  the  mixture  for  Philadelphia  Ice  Cream  add  ij  cup- 
fuls of  finely  diced  banana  pulp,  and  f  cupful  of  chopped 
pecan  nut  meats. 

Philadelphia  Fruit  Cream 

Use  the  above  proportions,  plus  a  pint  of  crushed  and 
sifted  strawberries,  raspberries,  peaches,  cooked  pine- 
apple, or  cooked  apricots,  which  have  been  allowed  to 
stand  for  an  hour  with  sugar  to  make  them  sweet.  In 
using  the  pjneapple  add  a  little  lemon  juice. 


SUMMER  FRUIT  CUP 


WAYS  TO  SERVE  PINEAPPLE 


FROZEN  DESSERTS  565 

Sour  Cream  Ice  Cream 

i  quart  thick  sour  cream  i|  cupfuls  chopped,  sweetened 

ii  cupfuls  granulated  sugar  pineapple,  sifted  strawber- 

ries, or  sieved  canned  apri- 
cots 

Add  the  sugar  to  the  fruit,  let  stand  an  hour;  turn  in 
the  cream,  and  freeze  in  three  parts  of  ice  to  one  of  salt. 

CREAM  ICES 

French  Ice  Cream 

3  cupfuls  milk  i  teaspoonful  salt 

3  eggs    (separated)  I  cupful  heavy  cream  or  un- 

ij  cupfuls  sugar  diluted  evaporated  milk 
I  tablespoonful  any  flavoring 

Make  a  custard  of  the  egg  yolks,  sugar,  salt  and  milk. 
Cool,  add  the  beaten  whites,  and  the  cream  and  flavor- 
ing. Freeze  in  three  parts  ice  to  one  part  salt. 

Ice  Cream  Croquettes 

Prepare  the  mixture  for  French  Ice  Cream.  Stir  in 
two  cupfuls  of  sifted  dry  macaroons,  and  freeze  very 
hard  in  three  parts  of  ice  to  one  part  salt.  Have  ready 
some  coarsely-pounded  macaroon  crumbs.  Scoop  out 
the  cream  in  pyramids  or  balls,  roll  quickly  in  the  crumbs 
and  serve  with  a  sauce  of  sliced  and  sugared  peaches, 
crushed  raspberries,  or  strawberries,  or  with  canned  or 
preserved  raspberries,  or  strawberries. 

Strawberry  Ice  Cream  I 

1  quart  milk  2*  cupfuls  sugar 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  i  teaspoonful  salt 

2  eggs  li  to  2  boxes  of  strawberries 

i  cupful  heavy  cream  or 
evaporated  milk 

Scald  the  milk.  Mix  the  flour  in  a  little  cold  milk  and 
add  to  the  hot  milk.  Cook  for  ten  minutes,  then  add  the 
eggs  and  one-half  the  sugar  beaten  together;  cook  four 
minutes.  Add  the  salt  and  cool.  In  the  meantime,  hull 
and  mash  the  berries  and  mix  them  with  the  remaining 
sugar.  When  the  custard  is  cool,  add  the  cream  and  ber- 
ries, and  freeze  in  three  parts  ice  to  one  part  salt. 


566  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Strawberry  Ice  Cream  II 

1  quart  light  cream  2  cupfuls  sugar 

li  boxes  strawberries  i£  tablespoonfuls  corn  starch 

2  cupfuls  milk 

Wash  and  hull  the  berries,  sprinkle  them  with  sugar 
and  let  stand  an  hour,  then  mash  and  sift.  Scald  i^ 
cupfuls  milk  and  mix  the  remaining  half  cup  with  the 
corn  starch.  Add  to  the  hot  milk  and  cook  over  hot 
water  ten  minutes  or  more,  stirring  constantly.  Cool, 
add  the  cream  and  freeze  to  a  mush  in  three  parts  ice  to 
one  part  salt ;  then  add  the  fruit  and  freeze  till  firm. 

Peach.  Ice  Cream 

i  quart  thin  cream  Few  grains  salt 

1  cupful  sugar  2  cupfuls  sifted  peach  pulp 

Scald  the  cream  and  sugar  together.  Stir  occasionally 
while  cooling,  add  the  salt  and  freeze  to  a  mush  in  three 
parts  ice  to  one  part  of  salt.  Then  add  the  sifted  peach 
pulp,  and  finish  freezing. 

Marshmallow  Ice  Cream 

3  cupfuls  rich  milk  i  cupful  heavy  cream  or  un- 
ii  cupfuls  sugar  diluted  evaporated  milk 

3  egg  yolks  i  pound  marshmallows  cut 

Few  grains  salt  in  quarters 

i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Scald  the  milk.  Beat  the  egg  yolks  and  mix  them  with 
the  sugar,  add  to  the  milk  and  cook  over  hot  water,  until 
the  mixture  coats  the  spoon,  stirring  constantly.  Cool, 
pour  in  the  cream,  add  the  salt  and  flavoring  and  freeze  in 
three  parts  ice  to  one  part  salt,  till  mushy.  Then  add  the 
marshmallows  and  finish  freezing.  Serve  with  a  garnish 
of  whipped  cream  and  shredded  candied  cherries. 

Frozen  Pudding 

3  egg  yolks  2  cupfuls  heavy  cream  or 

2  cupfuls  water  undiluted  evaporated  milk 
t  cupful  chopped,  candied                i  cupful  sugar 

•fruit  i  cupful  nuts    (almonds, 

i  tablespoonful  vanilla  English  walnuts  or  pis- 

i  teaspoonful  almond  ex-  tachio    nuts)    blanched 

tract  and  chopped 
i  teaspoonful  lemon  extract 


FROZEN  DESSERTS  567 

Beat  the  egg  yolks  till  light.  Make  a  syrup  of  the 
sugar  and  water  by  boiling  them  together  for  five  minutes. 
Pour  this  hot  syrup  onto  the  yolks,  place  over  hot  water 
and  beat  two  minutes.  Stand  the  mixture  in  cold  water 
and  beat  till  cold,  then  add  the  cream  and  flavoring  and 
freeze  to  a  mush  in  three  parts  ice  to  one  part  salt;  stir 
in  the  fruit  and  nuts  and  freeze  solid. 

Junket  Ice  Cream 

i  junket  tablet  dissolved  in  i  quart  milk 

i  tablespoonful    cold    water  i  pint   heavy   cream   or   un- 

ij  cupfuls  sugar  diluted  evaporated  milk 
i  tablespoonful   vanilla 

Heat  the  milk  with  the  sugar  till  lukewarm.  Remove 
from  the  heat,  stir  in  the  dissolved  tablet  and  flavoring, 
and  let  stand  undisturbed  until  slightly  "  set."  Add  the 
cream  and  freeze  in  three  parts  ice  to  one  part  salt. 

Frozen  Whipped  Cream 

ij  cupfuls  heavy  cream  i  cupful  marshmallows   cut 

I  cupful  powdered  sugar  in  bits 

Few  drops  vanilla  I  cupful  English  walnut 

meats 

Beat  the  cream  till  nearly  stiff,  add  the  marshmallows 
and  sugar  and  continue  beating.  Then  add  the  flavoring 
and  nut  meats  and  pack  in  equal  parts  of  ice  and  salt  one 
hour. 

Pistachio  Ice  Cream 

1  pint  hot  milk  i  cupful  sugar 

2  eggs  &  teaspoonful  salt 

2  teaspoonfuls    almond    flav-          i  pint  cream  or  undiluted 
oring  evaporated  milk 

Scald  the  milk.  Separate  the  eggs  and  mix  the  yolks, 
salt  and  sugar  together.  Add  to  the  milk  and  stir  over 
hot  water  till  thickened.  Remove  from  the  heat,  cool, 
flavor,  beat  in  the  whipped  egg  whites,  and  add  the  cream. 
Freeze  in  three  parts  ice  to  one  part  salt. 

Christmas  Ice  Cream  Eclairs 

Frost  eclair  shells  with  white  icing,  and  decorate  the 
tops  with  red  candies  and  holly  leaves  cut  from  angelica 
or  citron.  Split  the  eclairs,  insert  strips  of  pistachio  ice 


568  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

cream  cut  from  a  brick,  set  on  the  top  layers,  and  serve 
with  preserved  red  cherries  or  Maraschino  cherries. 

Maple  Ice  Cream 

4  egg  yolks,  beaten  thick  i  pint  heavy  cream 

ii  cupfnls    maple    syrup 

Beat  the  egg  yolks  till  thick,  heat  the  maple  syrup, 
pour  onto  the  egg  yolks  and  cook  in  a  double  boiler  until 
thickened.  Cool,  add  the  cream,  and  freeze  in  three 
parts  ice  to  one  part  salt. 

Serve  with  the  following  sauce : 

£  cupful  cream,   whipped  Sugar  to  taste 

I  cupful  marshmallows,  quar-         .i  cupful  English  walnuts 
tered  broken  in  bits 

Mix  well,  and  pack  in  ice  and  salt  two  hours. 

Frozen  Ginger  Whipped  Cream 

I  cupful  heavy  cream  I  cupful  finely-chopped 

i  cupful  powdered  sugar  candied  ginger 

Few  drops  lemon  extract 

Beat  the  cream  and  sugar  together,  add  the  ginger  and 
flavoring,  pack  in  equal  parts  of  ice  and  salt  for  one 
hour. 

FT      A  Chocolate 

2!  squares   (ounces)   choco-  ii  cupfuls  boiling  water 

late  4  cupfuls   rich  milk 

ii  cupfuls  sugar  \  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Few  grams  salt  £  teaspoonful  cinnamon 

Scald  the  milk.  Melt  the  chocolate  in  the  hot  water, 
boil  two  minutes,  flavor,  then  add  to  the  milk  with  the 
remaining  ingredients.  Cool  and  freeze  in  three  parts 
ice  to  one  part  salt;  serve  in  chocolate  cups.  Garnish 
with  half-frozen  whipped  cream,  well-sweetened,  and 
into  which  has  been  mixed  quartered  marshmallows,  a 
little  cocoanut  and  a  few  coarsely-chopped  nut  meats. 
Sprinkle  each  serving  with  bits  of  angelica  and  candied 
cherries,  if  convenient. 

Chocolate  Ice  Cream 

3  cupfuls  milk  2  squares    chocolate 

1  cupful  cream  or  undiluted          ii  cupfuls  sugar 
evaporated  milk  i  teaspoon ful  salt 

2  eggs  i*  tablespoonfuls  vanilla 


FROZEN  DESSERTS  569 

4 

Scrape  the  chocolate,  add  to  the  milk  in  a  double  boiler 
and  cook  until  the  chocolate  is  melted,  stirring  occa- 
sionally. Then  pour  onto  the  eggs,  sugar,  salt  and  vanilla, 
beaten  together;  chill,  add  the  cream  and  freeze  in  three 
parts  ice  to  one  part  salt. 

Caramel  Ice  Cream 

1  quart  milk  3  egg  yolks 

ii  cupfuls  sugar  i4  tablespoonfuls  vanilla 

&  teaspoonful  salt  I  cupful  heavy  cream,  or  un- 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  diluted  evaporated  milk 

Caramelize  f  cupful  of  the  sugar.  Scald  the  milk; 
combine  with  the  caramel  and  cook  until  the  latter  is 
liquid  again.  Mix  together  the  remaining  sugar,  the 
flour,  salt  and  J  cupful  of  milk  or  water  until  smooth. 
Add  to  the  hot  milk  and  cook  twenty  minutes,  stirring 
constantly.  Beat  the  egg  yolks,  add  to  these  part  of  the 
milk,  stir  well  and  return  to  the  double  boiler.  Stir  and 
cook  two  minutes.  Strain  and  cool;  then  add  the  cream 
and  flavoring.  Freeze  in  three  parts  ice  to  one  part  salt. 

Caramel  Almond  Ice  Cream 


i  pint  milk  ~   "Mnful    browned    almonds, 

3  eggs  jpped  fine 
ii  cupfuls  sugar  i  t  nt  cream 

1  teaspoonful    vanilla 

Caramelize  one-half  the  sugar  and  add  the  milk  to  it. 
Let  cook  slowly  till  the  caramel  is  dissolved,  then  add  the 
remaining  sugar  mixed  with  the  egg  yolks,  well-beaten. 
Set  over  hot  water  and  cook  until  the  spoon  is  coated  — 
as  in  a  custard  —  and  cool.  Flavor,  add  the  cream  and 
the  egg  whites,  well-beaten.  Freeze  in  three  parts  ice 
to  one  part  salt.  When  half  done,  stir  in  the  almonds 
and  finish  freezing.  The  almonds  should  be  blanched, 
then  browned  slightly  in  a  very  slow  oven. 

Coffee  Ice  Cream 

4  cupfuls  milk  6  tablespoonfuls  ground 

2  eggs  coffee 

ij  cupfuls  granulated  sugar  i  tablespoonful  corn  starch 

I  pint  cream  or  undiluted  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

evaporated  milk 

Scald  the  coffee  in  the  milk,  strain  through  cheese- 


570  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

cloth,  and  add  to  the  eggs,  corn  starch  and  sugar,  well 
mixed  together.  Return  to  the  double  boiler  and  cook 
until  thick,  like  custard;  cool,  add  the  vanilla,  a  few 
grains  of  salt,  and  the  cream,  and  freeze  in  three  parts 
ice  to  one  part  salt. 

Baked  Apple  Sauce  Ice  Cream 

i  pint  sifted  baked  apple  i  pint  heavy  cream 

sauce  Sugar  as  needed 

Combine  the  apple  sauce  and  cream,  add  sugar  if 
necessary  to  make  very  sweet,  and  freeze  in  three  parts 
ice  to  one  part  salt. 

Banana  Custard  (Half-frozen) 

i  quart  milk  4  egg  yolks,  or  2  whole  eggs 

1  cupful  sugar  i  teaspoonful  orange  extract 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  Sifted  banana  pulp 
Few  grains  salt 

Prepare  the  custard  mixture  as  for  Floating  Island, 
flavoring  it  with  orange  extract.  Chill  and  add  from  one 
to  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  sifted  banana  pulp.  Pack 
in  equal  parts  of  ice  and  salt  for  an  hour,  stirring  occa- 
sionally. Serve  'n  f  appe  glasses. 

Frozen  Peaches  and  Cream 

i  quart  sifted  rice  peaches  i  cupful  heavy  cream 

i  cupful  sugar 

Combine  the  ingredients  and  freeze  in  three  parts  ice 
to  one  part  salt. 


WATER  ICES,  SHERBETS  AND  FRAPPES 

Orange  Ice 

2  cupfuls  sugar  2^  cupfuls  orange  juice 
4  cupfuls  water  Grated  rind  of  i  orange 

3  tablespoonfuls 'lemon  juice 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  for  five  minutes. 
Cool,  add  the  fruit  juices  and  orange  rind  and  let  stand  an 
hour.  Strain,  then  freeze  in  three  parts  ice  to  one  part 
salt. 


FROZEN  DESSERTS  571 

Lemon  Ice 

4i  cupfuls  water  t  cupful  lemon  juice 

2^  cupfuls  sugar 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  for  five  minutes. 
Cool,  add  the  lemon  juice  and  freeze  in  three  parts  ice  to 
one  part  salt. 

Lemon  Sherbet 

Make  as  in  preceding  recipe  for  Lemon  Ice,  adding  2 
teaspoonfuls  granulated  gelatine,  which  has  been  allowed 
to  stand  in  cold  water  to  cover,  to  the  hot  syrup. 

Currant  Ice 

1  quart  red  currants  2  cupfuls  hot  water 

2  cupfuls  sugar 

Stem  and  wash  the  fruit,  then  mash,  add  the  water  and 
boil  gently  till  soft.  Strain,  add  the  sugar  and  stir  over 
heat  till  melted ;  then  cool  and  freeze  in  three  parts  ice  to 
one  part  salt.  Serve  garnished  with  the  whole  berries 
strewn  over  each  serving. 

Raspberry  Ice 

Substitute  red  raspberries  for  the  currants  in  the  pre- 
ceding recipe. 

Apricot  Ice 

i  quart  canned  apricots  2  cupfuls  sugar 

I  quart  boiling  water  Juice  2  lemons 

Chop  the  apricots  very  fine  and  add  the  juice.  Dis- 
solve the  sugar  in  the  boiling  water,  cool,  and  add  to  the 
apricots  with  the  lemon  juice.  Freeze  in  three  parts  ice 
to  one  part  salt. 

Strawberry  Ice 

4  cupfuls  water  li  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 

if  cupfuls  sugar  2^  cupfuls  strawberry  juice 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  ten  minutes.  Cool, 
add  the  fruit  juices  and  freeze  in  three  parts  ice  to  one 
part  salt. 

Grape  Juice  Ice 

1  pint  grape  juice  Juice  2  oranges 
Juice  2  lemons  i  quart  water 

2  cupfuls  sugar 


572  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  five  minutes.  Cool,  add  the 
fruit  juices,  strain  and  freeze  in  three  parts  ice  to  one 
part  salt. 

Ginger  Sherbet 

4  cupfuls  water  I  cupful  chopped  preserved 

i  cupful  sugar  ginger 

i  cupful  lemon  juice  2  cupful  orange  juice 

Add  the  water  and  sugar  to  the  ginger;  boil  ten  min- 
utes; cool,  add  the  fruit  juices,  strain  and  freeze  in  three 
jparts   ice   to   one   part   salt.     This   quantity   will   serve 
twelve  persons. 

Lemon  Milk  Sherbet 

4  cupfuls  milk  it  cupfuls  sugar 

3  lemons 

Mix  the  lemon  juice  and  sugar  together,  add  the  milk 
very  slowly  and  freeze  in  three  parts  ice  to  one  part  salt. 

Pineapple  Sherbet 

3  cupfuls  water  2  egg  whites 

i  cupful  sugar  i£  cupfuls  grated  canned 

4  teaspoonful  gelatine  pineapple 
(granulated)                                   Juice   i   lemon 

Put  the  sugar  and  water  in  saucepan  and  bring  to  boil- 
ing point.  Soak  the  gelatine  in  water  to  cover,  five  min- 
utes. Add  to  the  hot  syrup,  and  cool ;  then  add  the  egg 
whites,  well-beaten,  and  the  pineapple  and  lemon. 
Freeze  in  three  parts  ice  to  one  part  salt.  Fresh  pine- 
apple may  be  used.  In  this  case,  add  more  sugar  as 
judgment  may  dictate. 

Peach  and  Blood  Orange  Sherbet 

3  cupfuls  boiling  water  2  cupfuls  sugar 

i  pint  canned  peaches  ij  cupfuls  juice  of  blood  or- 

J  cupful  lemon  juice  anges 

Heat  the  peaches  in  their  liquor  to  boiling  point ;  add 
the  sugar,  stir  till  dissolved,  and  rub  through  a  sieve ;  add 
the  boiling  water,  cool,  stir  in  the  fruit  juices  and  freeze 
to  a  mush  in  three  parts  ice  to  one  part  salt. 


FROZEN  DESSERTS  573 

Raspberry  Sherbet 

1  quart  raspberries  2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 
ii  cupfuls  sugar  2  egg  whites 

2  cupfuls  water 

Pick  over  and  crush  the  raspberries;  add  one-half  the 
sugar  and  let  stand  an  hour.  Boil  together  the  remaining 
sugar  and  the  water  for  five  minutes.  Cool,  add  the 
lemon  and  strained  raspberry  juice,  and  freeze  in  three 
parts  ice  to  one  part  salt.  When  half-frozen,  stir  in  the 
egg  whites  and  finish  freezing. 

Rhubarb  Sherbet 

2  pounds  rhubarb  4  tablespoonfuls  chopped  pre- 

2\  cupfuls  sugar  served  ginger 

2  cupfuls  water  i  teaspoonful  granulated  gel- 

2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice             atine 

Cut  the  rhubarb  in  small  pieces,  but  do  not  remove  the 
skin.  Add  the  water,  ginger,  and  sugar  and  bake  until 
pink  in  a  casserole.  Add  the  gelatine  softened  in  water 
to  cover.  Stir  until  dissolved,  strain,  cool  and  add  the 
lemon  juice.  Freeze  in  three  parts  ice  to  one  part  salt. 

Grapefruit  Sherbet 

1  quart  water  i  tablespoonful  gelatine 

2  cupfuls  sugar  soaked    5    minutes   in 
i  pint  grapefruit  juice  water  to  cover 
Juice  i  lemon 

Boil  the  water  and  sugar  five  minutes  without  stirring. 
Add  the  gelatine,  cool  the  mixture,  then  add  the  strained 
fruit  juice;  freeze  in  three  parts  ice  to  one  part  salt. 
Garnish  each  serving  with  shredded  candied  cherries  and 
bits  of  angelica  if  convenient. 

Grape  Sherbet 

\\  cupfuls  grape  juice  ii  cupfuls  sugar 

1  cupful  boiling  water  i  cupful  pineapple  or  grape- 

2  teaspoonfuls  granulated  fruit  juice 
gelatine  I  cupful  orange  juice 

Soak  the  gelatine  five  minutes  in  water  to  cover ;  add 
boiling  water  and  sugar,  stir  until  dissolved,  cool  and 
then  add  fruit  juices.  Cool  and  freeze  in  three  parts  ice 
to  one  part  salt. 


574  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Cranberry  Frappe 

1  quart  cranberries  Juice  2  lemons 

2  cupfuls  water  Juice  2  oranges 
2^  cupfuls  sugar 

Boil  the  cranberries  and  water  together  for  ten 
minutes.  Then  strain  and  add  the  sugar.  Cool,  add  the 
fruit  juices,  and  freeze  to  a  mush  in  equal  parts  of  ice 
and  salt. 

Ginger  Ale  Frappe 

i  quart  bottle  ginger  ale  £  cupful  minced   Maraschino 

Juice  2  lemons  cherries 

Juice  4  oranges  I  tablespoonful  minced  fresh 

t  cupful  powdered  sugar  mint 

Mix  thoroughly  and  freeze  in  equal  parts  of  ice  and 
salt.  Decorate  with  shredded  Maraschino  cherries  and 
sprigs  of  mint  for  serving. 

Apricot  Sorbet 

1  quart  can  of  apricots  Juice  i  orange 
i£  cupfuls  sugar  Juice  i  lemon 

2  cupfuls  apple  juice  or  i  cupful  hot  water 
juice  from  baked  apples 

Drain  the  apricots  and  rub  through  a  sieve.  Dissolve 
the  sugar  in  the  hot  water;  add  the  other  ingredients  to 
the  apricots,  juice  and  pulp,  and  freeze  in  three  parts  ice 
to  one  part  salt. 

Frozen  Strawberries 

i  quart  berries,  mashed  i  cupful  warm  water 

2i  cupfuls  granulated  sugar 

Mix  the  berries  and  sugar.  Add  the  water  and  let 
stand  two  hours  to  extract  the  juice.  Then  freeze  in 
three  parts  ice  to  one  part  salt. 

Dried  Apricot  Ice 

I  pound  dried  apricots  Juice  3  lemons 
li  quarts  warm  -water  Juice  i  orange 

I 1  cupfuls  sugar 

Soak  the  apricots,  as  usual,  in  the  water.  Add  the 
sugar  and  cook,  taking  care  that  the  fruit  is  not  broken ; 
plan  so  that  there  is  a  quantity  of  liquor  remaining  when 
the  fruit  is  done.  If  the  water  seems  to  be  too  greatly 


FROZEN  DESSERTS  575 

absorbed,  add  enough  to  make  up  the  balance  during  the 
cooking.  Strain  off  the  juice,  chill  it,  add  the  fruit 
juices  and  freeze  in  three  parts  ice  to  one  part  salt. 
Serve  in  high  glasses,  partly  rilled  with  the  cooked  fruit, 
and  garnish  with  candied  orange  peel. 

Coffee  Frappe 

4  cupfuls  clear,  hot  coffee  i  cupful  sugar 

Few  grains  salt  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

I  egg  white 

Dissolve  the  sugar  and  salt  in  the  coffee.  Chill,  add 
the  vanilla  and  the  egg  white,  beaten  light,  and  freeze  in 
equal  parts  of  ice  and  salt. 

Serve  in  frappe  glasses  with  or  without  whipped 
cream.  A  few  nut  meats  sprinkled  on  the  cream  piled 
on  each  glass  is  an  addition  when  the  frappe  is  used  as  a 
dessert.  The  egg  white  may  be  omitted,  if  not  con- 
venient. 

Cider  Frappe* 

ij  cupfuls  sugar  i  quart  sweet  cider 

3  cupfuls  water  ij  cupfuls  sifted  baked  apple 
i  cupful  lemon  juice  sauce 

Make  a  syrup  by  boiling  the  sugar  and  water  five  min- 
utes. Add  the  cider,  apple  sauce  and  lemon  juice. 
Cool,  strain  and  freeze  to  a  mush  in  equal  parts  of  ice 
and  salt. 

Mint  Frappe 

1  quart  water  2  bunches   mint 

2  cupfuls  sugar  $  tablespoonful  granulated 
\  cupful  lemon  juice  gelatine 

Pick  the  mint  leaves  from  the  stems,  add  to  the  water 
and  sugar  and  boil  for  ten  minutes.  Strain ;  add  the 
gelatine  which  should  have  been  previously  softened  in 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water.  Cool,  add  the  lemon 
juice.  Strain  and  color  green,  if  desired,  with  vegetable 
coloring.  Freeze  in  equal  parts  of  ice  and  salt. 

MOUSSES  AND  PARFAITS 

Maple  Parfait 

4  egg  yolks  2  cupfuls  heated  maple 
i  pint  heavy  cream  syrup 


576  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Beat  the  egg  yolks  until  light,  then  stir  in  the  hot 
syrup.  Pour  into  a  double  boiler,  and  cook  until  the 
mixture  coats  a  spoon.  Cool,  and  fold  in  the  cream, 
whipped.  Pour  in  a  mould,  seal  and  pack  in  equal  quan- 
tities of  ice  and  salt  for  four  hours,  according  to  general 
directions. 

Fig  Parfait 

i  pound   figs,   soaked   over  I  tablespoonful  orange  juice 

night  in  water  to  barely  I  cupful   granulated    sugar 

cover  i  cupful  boiling  water 

i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice  4  egg  yolks 

2  cupfuls  heavy  cream 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  until  it  threads.  Beat  the 
egg  yolks  light,  then  pour  this  syrup  slowly  onto  them. 
Return  to  a  double  boiler  and  stir  until  the  mixture  coats 
the  spoon.  Remove  and  chill.  In  the  meantime,  the 
figs  should  have  been  cooked  slowly  for  two  hours  in  the 
water  in  which  they  were  soaked,  removed  from  the 
liquor  and  rubbed  through  a  sieve.  Add  the  fruit  juices 
to  the  cream,  beat  until  half -firm,  and  whip  in  the  fig  mix- 
ture. Combine  the  parfait  custard  with  this  and  pour 
into  the  mould.  Seal  and  pack  in  equal  parts  of  ice 
and  salt  for  four  hours,  according  to  general  directions. 
Serve  with  sliced  orange  sections,  or  a  compote  of 
oranges. 

Snow  Parfait 

i  cupful  granulated  sugar  2  teaspoonfuls   vanilla  ex- 

i  cupful  boiling  water  tract 

i  egg  white  I  pint  heavy  cream 

Boil  the  water  and  sugar  until  it  spins  a  short  thread, 
then  pour  slowly  into  the  beaten  egg  white.  Cool  the 
mixture.  Whip  the  cream  and  vanilla,  stiff,  and  com- 
bine. Turn  into  a  mould,  seal  and  let  stand  in  equal 
parts  of  ice  and  salt  for  four  hours  as  in  general  direc- 
tions. 

Pineapple  Parfait 

1  cupful  pineapple  syrup  I  cupful    sugar 

2  egg  yolks  i  pint  heavy  cream 
Few  gratings  lemon  rind 

Beat  together  the  sugar  and  egg  yolks.  Stir  in  the 
pineapple  syrup,  which  should  be  heated,  and  cook  over 
boiling  water  until  slightly  thickened.  Cool,  add  the 


FROZEN  DESSERTS  577 

lemon  and  combine  with  the  cream,  whipped  stiff.  Pack 
in  a  mould,  as  directed,  and  freeze  in  equal  parts  of  ice 
and  salt  for  four  hours.  If  desired,  the  mould  may  be 
garnished  with  half  slices  of  canned  pineapple. 

Garden  Parfait 

1  teaspponful   granulated  i  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 
gelatine  I  cupful  sugar 

2  cupful  cold  water  i  pint  heavy  cream 
I  cupful  rich  grape  juice 

Let  the  gelatine  stand  in  the  cold  water  for  five  min- 
utes and  then  dissolve  over  steam.  Add  the  grape  juice, 
together  with  the  sugar  and  lemon,  and  let  stand  until 
the  sugar  is  thoroughly  dissolved.  When  the  whole  is 
well-chilled,  fold  it  into  the  cream,  whipped  stiff.  Pack 
into  a  mould,  seal  and  bury  in  equal  parts  of  ice  and  salt 
for  four  hours  as  in  general  directions.  For  serving, 
unmould  and  garnish  with  candied  violets  and  leaves  cut 
from  angelica,  placed  as  though  they  were  growing. 
Garnish  further  with  whipped  cream  if  desired. 

Caramel  Parfait 

1  cupful  sugar  i£  cupfuls  heavy  cream 

2  egg  yolks  i  tablespoonful   granulated 
i  cupful  boiling  water  gelatine,  soaked  in  water 
i  teaspoonful  vanilla  to  cover 

Caramelize  one-half  of  the  sugar;  add  carefully  to  it 
the  boiling  water,  and,  after  it  has  dissolved  again,  turn  it 
onto  the  egg  yolks,  which  have  been  beaten  with  the  re- 
maining sugar.  Cook  over  hot  water  until  thick  like 
custard,  add  the  gelatine  which  has  soaked  at  least  five 
minutes,  and  chill  the  mixture  until  it  is  slightly  stiff- 
ened. Whip  the  cream  solid  with  the  vanilla;  fold  it 
gently  into  the  caramel  mixture  and  pour  into  a  mould. 
Seal,  and  pack  in  equal  parts  of  ice  and  salt  for  four 
hours,  according  to  the  general  directions. 

Coffee  Parfait 

4  egg  yolks  $  teaspoonful  vanilla 

i  cupful  sugar  i  cupful  very  strong  coffee 

i  cupful  water  2  cupfuls  heavy  cream 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  five  minutes,  then  pour 
slowly  onto  the  egg  yolks,  beaten  very  light;  return 


578  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

to  the  double  boiler,  and  cook  until  the  mixture  coats  a 
spoon.  Beat  until  cold,  then  add  the  coffee  and  vanilla, 
and  whip  into  the  cream,  beaten  until  nearly  solid.  Turn 
into  a  mould,  seal  and  pack  in  equal  parts  ice  and  salt 
for  four  hours  according  to  the  general  directions. 
Serve  with  whipped  cream  and  Maraschino  cherries,  or  a 
garnish  of  tiny  meringues. 

Christmas  Bombe 

Line  a  quart  brick  mould  with  very  white  vanilla  ice 
cream.  Fill  in  the  hollow  with  strawberry  mousse,  and 
cover  over  with  the  cream,  then  freeze  for  three  hours  in 
equal  parts  of  ice  and  salt.  Unmould  upon  an  ice  cream 
platter,  arrange  candied  cherries  and  angelica  leaves  and 
stems  to  simulate  holly,  and,  if  convenient,  serve  sur- 
rounded writh  tiny  meringues,  colored  a  delicate  green, 
and  strewn  with  shredded  candied  cherries  just  before 
baking. 

Macaroon  Bisque 

2  cupfuls  heavy  cream  i£  cupfuls  macaroon  crumbs 

3  eggs  i  teaspoonful  vanilla  ex- 

4  cupful  sugar  tract 

£  cupful  hot  water  i  teaspoonful  lemon  extract 

Beat  the  eggs  separately,  then  together.  Make  a 
syrup  of  the  water  and  sugar,  boiling  until  it  forms  a 
soft  ball  when  dropped  in  cold  water.  Stir  this  into  the 
beaten  eggs,  whipping  constantly.  Cool  this  mixture ; 
then  beat  the  cream,  stir  in  the  macaroon  crumbs  and 
flavoring,  and  pour  in  the  syrup  slowly.  Put  in  a  mould, 
seal  and  pack  in  equal  parts  of  ice  and  salt  for  four 
hours  according  to  the  general  directions.  Garnish  with 
macaroons,  strips  of  angelica  and  Maraschino  cherries. 

Nougat  Mousse 

2  cupfuls  heavy  cream  £  teaspoonful  vanilla  extract 

t  cupful  powdered  sugar  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

i  teaspoonful  salt  i  cupful  chopped  almonds 

i  cupful  quartered  marsh-  i  cupful  chopped  pistachio 
mallows  nuts 

Add  the  salt  and  sugar  to  the  cream  and  beat  until 
solid,  fold  in  the  nuts,  marshmallows  and  flavoring ;  pour 
into  the  mould,  seal,  and  pack  in  equal  parts  of  ice  and 
salt  for  four  hours  according  to  the  general  directions. 


FROZEN  DESSERTS  579 

Orange  Nut  Mousse 

Juice  4  oranges  Powdered  sugar  to  taste, 

Juice  2  lemons  about  li  cup f tils 

1  pint  heavy  cream  I  cupful  chopped  walnut 

meats 

Whip  the  cream,  add  the  fruit  juices,  gradually, 
sweeten  and  stir  in  the  nuts.  Pour  in  a  mould,  seal,  and 
pack  in  equal  parts  of  ice  and  salt  for  four  hours  accord- 
ing to  the  general  directions. 

Chocolate  Mousse 

2  squares   (ounces)   choco-  Few  grains  salt 
late  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

i  cupful  milk  i  pint  heavy  cream 

1  inch  stick  cinnamon  I  cupful  sugar 

Shave  the  chocolate  and  add  to  the  milk  with  the  cin- 
namon and  sugar.  Put  over  hot  water  and  melt  the 
chocolate ;  then  cool,  add  the  salt  and  vanilla  and  fold 
into  the  cream,  whipped.  Pour  into  a  mould,  seal  and 
pack  in  equal  parts  of  ice  and  salt  for  four  hours  as 
directed. 

Strawberry  Mousse 

2  cupfnls  heavy  cream  i  -cupful  strawberry  juice 
t  cupful  powdered  sugar  and  sifted  pulp 

1  teaspoonful  salt  i  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

Add  the  lemon  juice  and  sugar  to  the  strawberries. 
Beat  the  cream,  whipping  the  strawberry  juice  in  slowly; 
when  all  is  in,  turn  into  a  mould,  seal  and  bury  in  equal 
quantities  of  ice  and  salt  for  four  hours,  according  to  the 
general  directions. 

Unmould  and  serve  with  chilled  whipped  cream  and 
garnish  .with  whole  berries.  If  the  berries  are  very  tart, 
add  more  sugar. 


SUNDAES  OR  COLLEGE  ICES 

Sundaes  may  be  easily  made  at  home  from  a  founda- 
tion cream,  at  much  less  expense  than  when  purchased  at 
a  soda  fountain.  The  number  is  legion,  the  limit  to 
imagination  alone  curtailing  the  varieties  that  may  be 
made. 

The  following  combinations  may  prove  useful  in  sug- 


580  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

gesting  various  types  which  may  be  easily  and  quickly 
prepared.  They  are  usually  served  in  sherbert  or  frappe 
glasses.  These  may  be  procured  as  low  as  ten  cents 
apiece  in  various  styles. 

Chocolate  Sundae 

Vanilla  ice  cream,  chocolate  sauce,  hot  or  cold,  or 
chocolate  syrup. 

Chocolate  Nut  Sundae 

Add  chopped  walnuts  or  hickory  nuts  to  the  chocolate 
sauce  just  before  using  on  vanilla  ice  cream. 

Chocolate  Peppermint  Sundae 

Vanilla  ice  cream  and  chocolate  sauce,  the  latter  fla- 
vored sparingly  with  essence  of  peppermint. 

Maple  Sundae 
Pour  maple  sauce  over  vanilla  ice  cream. 

Maple  Nut  Sundae 

Add  chopped  hickory  nuts,  walnut  meats,  or  chopped 
pecans  to  the  syrup  used  in  making  maple  sundae.  Or 
sprinkle  vanilla  ice  cream  thickly  with  fresh-scraped 
new  maple  sugar  and  chopped  nut  meats  in  equal  propor- 
tions. 

Caramel  Marshmallow  Sundae 

Prepare  caramel  sauce,  adding  the  marshmallows 
while  hot.  Pour  hot  over  vanilla  ice  cream. 

Apple  Sauce  Sundae 

Vanilla  ice  cream,  baked  apple  sauce,  and  whipped 
cream,  topped  with  a  candied  cherry. 

Baked  Apple  Sundae 

Peeled  apples  halved  and  baked  in  syrup;  vanilla  ice 
cream,  whipped  -  cream,  and  a  sprinkling  of  candied 
•orange  peel. 

Charlotte  Russe  Sundae 

Line  deep  sherbet  glasses  with  halved  lady  fingers,  and 
put  in  a  tablespoonful  of  preserved  strawberries  or  rasp- 


FROZEN  DESSERTS  581 

berries,  or  of  crushed  and  sweetened  fresh  fruit.  Top 
with  vanilla  or  chocolate  ice  cream,  or  strawberry  ice 
cream,  and  garnish  with  whipped  cream. 

Orange  Marmalade  Sundae 

Vanilla  ice  cream,  with  orange  marmalade,  not  too 
bitter,  slightly  melted  and  poured  over  the  top. 

Banana  Sundae 

Peel  bananas  and  split  lengthwise;  sprinkle  with  pow- 
dered sugar  and  a  little  orange  juice ;  arrange  on  a  plate 
together  with  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  vanilla  ice  cream 
and  pour  over  preserved  strawberries  or  raspberries,  or 
sweetened  crushed  fruit.  Whipped  cream  may  be  added 
if  desired. 

Sponge  Cake  Sundae 

Bake  sponge  cake  in  individual  pans.  Allow  one  cake 
to  each  person.  Place  in  the  center  of  a  plate ;  pour  over 
hot  chocolate  sauce,  and  place  a  small  spoonful  of  vanilla 
ice  cream  on  each  side. 

Fudge  Sundae 

Vanilla  ice  cream  with  fudge  sauce  poured  over  while 
hot.  To  keep  fudge  sauce  for  some  time,  put  it  in  a 
chafing  dish  and  thin  it  occasionally  with  a  little  rich 
milk  or  cream  so  that  it  will  not  become  stiff.  For  the 
sauce,  use  the  fudge  frosting  recipe. 

Daisy  Sundae 

Chocolate  ice  cream,  packed  into  sherbet  glasses  and 
garnished  with  shredded  almonds,  and  yellow  candies  to 
simulate  daisy  centres. 

Rose  Cup 

Pistachio  ice  cream  and  vanilla  ice  cream  arranged  so 
that  they  will  fill  a  sherbet  glass  —  one  side  white  and 
the  other  green  —  tracing  the  dividing  line  with  candied 
rose  leaves ;  serve  on  doily-covered  plates,  each  one  gar- 
nished with  a  pink  rose. 

Ginger  Sundae 

Orange  ice  cream  or  orange  nut  mousse,  sprinkled  with 
chopped  preserved  ginger  and  a  little  of  the  syrup. 


582  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Maple  Cocoanut  Sundae 

Maple  ice  cream  sprinkled  with  cocoanut  and  a  little 
maple  syrup,  or  whipped  cream. 

Violet  Cup 

Nougat  mousse  with  a  garnish  of  whipped  cream  and 
candied  violets. 

Frozen  Strawberry  Sundae 

Half  fill  sherbet  glasses  with  a  mixture  of  equal  parts 
of  cubed  canned  pineapple,  diced  oranges  and  halved 
strawberries,  well-sweetened.  Top  with  the  mixture  for 
Frozen  Strawberries,  or  Strawberry  Ice. 

Stuffed  Peach  Sundae 

Chill  canned  peaches,  and  fill  the  hollows  with  rasp- 
berry jam.  Half  fill  sherbet  glasses  with  French  ice 
cream,  put  in  the  peach  halves,  curved  sides  up,  and  top 
with  whipped  cream.  Garnish  with  shredded  candied 
cherries. 

Figolette  Sundae 

2  cupfuls  water  i  cupful  chopped  walnuts 

1  cupful  sugar  1  cupful  maple  syrup 
t  cupful  chopped  figs                       Vanilla  ice  cream 

Boil  together  the  sugar,  water  and  figs  for  fifteen 
minutes,  then  add  the  maple  syrup,  and,  when  cold,  the 
walnuts.  Serve  on  individual  portions  of  ice  cream. 

Raising  Sundae  *  . 

2  cupfuls  water  Grating  lemon  rind 

*  cupful  chopped,  seeded  I  cupful  cubed  canned  pears 

raisins  Orange  or  vanilla  ice  cream 

f  cupful  sugar 

Boil  together  the  water,  raisins  and  sugar  about  fifteen 
minutes;  add  the  lemon  rind  and  pears.  Let  stand  to 
become  very  cold.  Arrange  small  portions  of  ice  cream 
in  individual  serving  glasses,  put  a  heaping  tablespoonful 
of  the  mixture  over  each,  and  serve  garnished  with  a  tiny 
cluster  of  raisins. 

Cream  Puff  Surprise 

Fill  cream  puffs  with  vanilla  ice  cream,  and  pour  over 
hot  fudge  sauce. 


CHAPTER  XXII 
CAXE 

ALL   MEASUREMENTS   ARE   LEVEL 

Cake  unfortunately  is  used  in  the  menu  more  as  an 
accessory  than  a  food,  and* is  often  the  last  morsel  of  the 
meal  that  overtaxes  an  already  overburdened  digestive 
system.  This  is  undoubtedly  the  reason  why  many  per- 
sons feel  that  they  cannot  eat  it.  When  made  with  fat, 
it  will  take  longer  to  digest  than  when  made  without ;  but 
this  is  no  reason  why  anyone  with  normal  digestion 
should  not  eat  cake,  provided  it  does  not  destroy  the  bal- 
ance of  the  menu.  It  is  largely  made  up  of  carbohy- 
drates, as  sugar  and  flour,  which  are  energy  makers. 
The  ordinary  loaf,  therefore,  which  contains  only  one  or 
two  eggs  to  represent  the  proteins,  must  be  classified  as 
a  heat  maker,  and,  when  it  is  used,  especially  if  covered 
with  a  thick  icing,  it  should  not  be  accompanied  by  a 
second  sweet  for  dessert.  However,  if  very  rich  in  eggs, 
as  are  sponge  and  angel  cake,  or  in  nuts,  it  may  be  used 
as  a  supplement  to  the  proteins  of  the  meal. 

Preparation  of  Utensils 

It  is  easy  to  make  good  cake,  if  care  is  exercised. 
Choose  a  reliable  recipe  and  read  it  carefully.  Be  sure 
that  all  the  necessary  ingredients  are  at  hand,  and  that 
the  process  of  putting  the  mixture  together  is  thoroughly 
understood, —  for  this  has  much  to  do  with  the  texture 
of  the  finished  product.  Then  prepare  the  pans.  In 
making  any  loaf  cake  containing  fat,  the  bottom  of  the 
pan  should  be  lined  with  paper  —  not  a  scrap  from  the 
dry-goods  bundle  which  has  passed  through  many  hands 
of  questionable  cleanliness,  but  a  fresh  piece  from  a  supply 
kept  for  the  purpose.  Better  still,  purchase  the  "  stick- 
less  "  vegetable  parchment  papers.  In  making  layer  or 
cup  cakes,  the  pans  should  be  merely  oiled^  and  then 

583 


584  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

dusted  with  flour  to  form  a  thin  film.  Butter  should 
never  be  used  for  oiling  pans,  as  it  burns  readily,  and 
imparts  a  conspicuously  salty,  fried  taste  to  the  outside 
of  the  cake.  Either  lard  or  a  reliable  vegetable  fat  is 
a  much  better  choice.  A  little  basket  of  clean  scraps  of 
paper  hung  near  the  cooking  table  will  make  the  oiling  of 
the  pans  easy. 

Many  experts  suggest  as  the  next  step  the  measuring 
of  all  ingredients  before  mixing,  but  I  have  yet  to  find  a 
practical  housewife  who  will  do  this;  the  objection  being 
that  it  means  the  use  of  unnecessary  dishes.  However, 
all  the  things  should  be  placed  on  the  cooking  table  to 
facilitate  the  mixing.  The  heavy  stone  cake  bowl,  be- 
loved by  many  housewives,  is  strictly  taboo  in  my  kitchen, 
because  it  is  clumsy  and  hard  to  handle;  a  far  bet- 
ter choice  is  a  good-sized  saucepan,  of  suitable  depth, 
with  a  rounded  bottom,  the  handle  being  a  great  help  in 
holding  the  utensil  firmly  while  creaming  the  butter  and 
beating  the  batter.  A  wooden  spoon,  spatula  shape,  is 
the  most  adequate  tool  for  the  mixing,  because  of  its 
long  handle,  lightness,  and  the  fact  that  it  is  almost 
noiseless. 

Putting  the  Cake  Together 

Having  prepared  the  pan,  assembled  the  ingredients, 
and  chosen  the  mixing  utensils,  the  next  step  is  to  sit 
down  and  measure  out  the  fat.  If  the  fat  is  very  hard, 
the  mixing  pan  may  be  rinsed  with  boiling  water,  dried, 
and  the  fat  broken  in  pieces  and  left  there  to  soften,  but 
it  should  never  be  melced  unless  specified  in  the  recipe, 
and  then  it  should  be  cooled  before  being  added  to  the 
cake. 

Measure  the  liquid  required  in  the  cup  which  was 
used  for  the  fat.  The  flour  should  be  sifted  onto  a 
good-sized  piece  of  paper,  then  measured,  and  the  ex- 
cess put  back  into  the  flour  receptacle.  Put  the  meas- 
ured flour  on  another  piece  of  paper,  together  with  the 
salt  (for  a  little  salt  is  indispensable  in  every  cake, 
whether  or  not  butter  is  used),  and  the  baking  powder, 
or  the  combination  of  soda  and  cream  of  tartar,  or  soda 
alone,  according  to  the  requirements.  Spices  should 
also  be  added  to  this  mixture,  and,  if  nuts  or  fruit  are 
called  for;  they  should  be  thoroughly  blended  with  the 


CAKE  585 

flour.  It  is  not  necessary  to  add  extra  flour  to  them. 
By  this  time  the  gas  oven  should  be  lighted  (allowing 
ten  minutes  for  it  to  heat),  unless  it  has  a  direct  heat 
action,  while  a  wood  or  coal  oven  should  have  been 
brought  to  the  right  temperature.  Now  the  fat  will  be 
sufficiently  softened  by  the  heat  in  the  room  to  be  easily 
creamed.  It  should  be  stirred  until  as  soft  as  cold  cream, 
and  then  the  sugar  should  be  beaten  in  until  all  grainy  tex- 
ture is  lost.  It  does  not  take  any  longer  to  do  this  than  it 
does  to  put  the  sugar  and  the  fat  together  in  the  first 
place  and  try  to  smooth  out  the  lumps.  The  next  step,  if 
whole  eggs  are  to  be  used,  is  to  beat  and  add  them  to 
this  mixture.  Melted  chocolate  or  cocoa  should  be 
added  at  this  time.  If  the  eggs  are  separated,  the  whites 
are  usually  folded  in  last,  after  being  beaten  stiff,  since 
they  act  as  part  of  the  leavening.  If  a  cake  of  very  solid 
texture  is  desired,  the  eggs  may  be  creamed  in,  one  at  a 
time,  without  being  beaten. 

Now  add  the  flavoring,  and  be  sure  that  enough  is  put 
in  to  give  the  cake  a  distinctive  taste.  Sometimes,  a 
blend  may  be  used  to  give  variety,  as  a  few  drops  of 
vanilla,  half  the  amount  of  orange,  and  a  drop  or  two  of 
almond  extract.  Or  the  cake  may  have  its  own  char- 
acteristic flavoring,  as  caramel,  chocolate,  or  coffee,  when 
the  amount  of  extra  flavoring  must  be  very  sparingly 
used,  in  order  to  augment,  and  not  overbalance,  the  de- 
sired taste.  Lemon  or  orange  rind  may  be  added,  or, 
better  still,  a  few  drops  of  the  new  orange  or  lemon  oil. 
After  this  the  flour  mixture  and  the  liquid  should  be 
added  alternately,  beginning  with  the  flour,  to  prevent 
the  re-congealing  of  the  fat,  which  takes  place  when  the 
cold  liquid  is  added  first.  The  more  the  cake  is  beaten 
at  this  time  the  finer-grained  it  will  be.  As  soon  as  the 
mixing  process  is  completed  the  cake  should  be  poured 
into  the  pan. 

Putting  the  Cake  into  the  Pan 

The  batter  should  be  so  thick  that  it  is  necessary  to 
spread  it,  and  it  should  be  made  a  little  higher  on  the 
edges  and  at  the  corners  than  in  the  center,  so  that  the 
cake,  when  baked,  will  be  level.  If  this  is  not  done,  it 
bakes  more  quickly  at  the  edges,  since  it  takes  the  heat 


586  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

longer  to  penetrate  to  the  middle,  therefore  causing  a 
slower  expansion  of  the  gas  formed  in  the  cake,  with  the 
familiar  "  mountainous  ridge "  result.  This  ridge  is 
sometimes  caused  by  too  much  flour,  but,  as  a  general 
rule,  it  is  due  to  the  carelessness  in  putting  the  mixture 
into  the  pans  for  baking.  Sogginess  is  usually  caused  by 
too  little  flour,  too  much  sugar,  too  much  fat,  or  under- 
cooking. 

Baking  Cake 

The  proper  oven  temperature  depends  upon  the  kind 
of  cake  to  be  baked;  for  fruit  cake,  or  a  rich  wedding 
cake,  demanding  two  or  more  hours'  cooking,  the  oven 
should  be  very  slow,  about  225  degrees  F.  For  sponge 
or  angel  cake  the  temperature  should  be  higher,  about 
300  degrees  F. ;  for  loaf  cake  about  350  degrees  F.,  and 
for  layer  and  cup  cakes  375  degrees  F.  In  using  gas  a 
small  pan  of  cold  water,  or  a  pan  of  custard  surrounded 
by  water,  or  some  apples  to  bake,  should  be  put  in  along 
with  the  cake  to  provide  a  more  moist  heat. 

During  the  first  quarter  of  the  time  the  cake  should 
rise,  little  bubbles  appearing  all  over  the  top.  It  may  be 
moved  as  desired  during  this  period.  During  the  second 
quarter  of  the  baking  time  it  should  rise  to  its  full  height 
and  brown  in  spots.  During  the  third  quarter  it  should 
brown  all  over,  and,  during  the  last,  it  stops  steaming, 
shrinks  away  from  the  sides  of  the  pan,  and  rebounds 
when  lightly  touched.  If  it  is  necessary  to  use  a  still 
further  test,  plunge  a  common  steel  hat  pin  or  knitting- 
needle  into  the  cake;  if  it  comes  out  free  of  dough,  the 
cake  is  done.  The  cake  should  be  allowed  to  stand  for 
at  least  five  minutes,  after  removing  from  the  oven,  be- 
fore being  turned  from  the  pan,  and  should  cool  on  a 
wire  cake  rack,  so  that  there  will  be  a  circulation  of  air 
about  it.  If  a  boiled  icing  is  to  be  used,  it  should  be 
put  on  the  cake  after  it  has  cooled ;  an  uncooked  icing 
may  be  spread  on  a  warm  or  cold  cake.  Although  a 
frosting  adds  to  the  deliciousness  of  the  cake,  there  are 
many  times  when  it  may  be  omitted,  the  cake  fitting  into 
the  meal  to  better  advantage  without  it. 

The  Choice  of  Ingredients 

The  choice  of  flour  has  its  effect  on  the  cake;  a  good 


CAKE  587 

winter  wheat  or  pastry  flour  gives  a  much  more  tender 
texture  than  bread  flour  because  it  contains  less  gluten. 
Good  butter  lends  a  peculiar  richness,  when  used  in 
large  quantities,  as  in  making  pound  cake.  But,  gen- 
erally speaking,  oleomargarine  may  be  used  in  precisely 
the  same  quantities  as  butter ;  lard  and  beef  fat  in  half 
the  quantity  of  butter ;  and  the  vegetable  oils  and  chicken 
fat  in  about  two-thirds  the  proportion  of  butter.  All  of 
these  give  good  results,  provided  the  cake  is  carefully 
made  and  the  fat  of  good  quality.  If  nuts  or  cocoanut 
are  added  to  a  cake  formula,  the  amount  of  shortening 
should  be  reduced  one-eighth,  as  both  these  ingredients 
contain  fat. 

Whatever  kind  of  sugar  is  used,  it  must  be  free  from 
lumps.  Brown  sugar  makes  a  moist  cake,  and  pow- 
dered sugar  one  that  is  dry.  Fine  granulated  sugar  is 
the  best  for  general  purposes.  Sweet  milk  is  the  best 
liquid  for  cake,  a  half  cupful  being  the  right  proportion 
for  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  flour.  Water  or  cold  coffee 
may  be  substituted,  if  a  tablespoonful  less  is  used,  but 
the  texture  will  not  be  so  fine.  Cocoa,  or  potato,  or  rice, 
or  macaroni  water  (water  in  which  potatoes,  macaroni 
or  rice  have  been  boiled)  may  be  cooled  and  used  in  the 
same  quantity  as  milk.  If  cream  is  substituted  for  milk, 
the  amount  of  shortening  must  be  decreased,  and  the 
amount  of  liquid  increased,  one-half  cupful  of  light 
cream  being  equal  to  six  tablespoonfuls  of  milk  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  Sour  milk  and  buttermilk  may 
be  used  interchangeably;  they  make  a  very  tender  cake. 
If  the  milk  is  not  very  sour,  the  method  may  be  that  fol- 
lowed with  sweet  milk,  provided  it  is  neutralized  with  a 
little  soda,  one-fourth  teaspoonful  usually  sufficing  to 
sweeten  a  cupful  of  the  sour  liquid.  The  amount  of 
baking  powder  used  should  then  be  decreased  —  a  tea- 
spoonful  to  every  fourth  teaspoonful  of  soda  added  to 
the  sour  milk. 


CAKES  MADE  WITHOUT  SHORTENING 

There  are  only  a  few  cakes  which  can  be  made  without 
shortening.  These  include  those  of  the  sponge  variety, 
angel  and  sunshine  cakes,  and  all  of  them  depend  largely 


588  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

for  their  lightness  upon  the  amount  of  air  that  is  beaten 
into  the  egg  whites.  In  some  cases  a  little  baking  pow- 
der is  introduced  to  lessen  the  number  of  eggs,  which 
would  otherwise  be  necessary  to  make  a  light  cake.  But 
the  real,  old-fashioned  cake  of  this  type  contains  no  arti- 
ficial leavening. 

Quickness  in  putting  a  cake  of  this  type  together  is  the 
first  step  towards  success.  If  possible,  .pans  should  be 
kept  only  for  these  cakes,  and  should  never  be  oiled,  but, 
if  this  is  impracticable,  it  will  be  necessary  to  oil  and 
slightly  flour  the  pans,  if  butter  cakes  have  been  baked  in 
them.  After  measuring  out  the  various  ingredients, 
creaming  or  beating  the  egg  yolks  as  the  case  may  be, 
together  with  the  sugar,  and  making  all  possible  prep- 
arations, the  egg  whites  may  be  whipped  stiff  by  means  of 
a  flat  wire  whisk,  which  beats  in  approximately  a  third 
more  air  than  the  ordinary  egg-beater,  therefore  making 
the  cake  rise  to  greater  height.  As  soon  as  put  together, 
the  cake  should  be  transferred  to  the  pan  and  slipped  into 
a  very  slow  oven.  Some  authorities  advocate  a  cold 
oven  in  starting  the  cake ;  this  also  gives  good  results. 
The  heat  should  be  moderated  so  that  it  will  reach  three 
hundred  degrees  after  the  loaf  has  been  in  about  fifteen 
minutes.  An  average-sized  loaf  of  sponge,  angel,  or 
sunshine  cake  should  bake  from  fifty  minutes  to  an  hour, 
and  should  rise  to  twice  its  bulk.  Invert  as  soon  as  it 
comes  from  the  oven,  and  the  cake  will  usually  come 
out  by  itself,  if  allowed  to  stand  some  little  time.  If  it 
does  not  loosen  and  begin  to  come  out  within  a  half 
hour,  run  a  sharp  knife  around  the  edge,  but  do  not 
jam  the  cake. 

Everyday  Sponge  Cake 

3  eggs  4  tablespoonfuls  cold  water 

i  cupful  sugar  I  cupful  pastry  flour 

\  teaspoonful  salt  li  leaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 
\  lemon,  juice  and  rind  der 

Beat  the  eggs  till  light.  Add  the  sugar  and  salt,  and 
beat  until  very  creamy.  Add  the  lemon  juice,  rind  and  the 
cold  water,  stirring  slightly.  Lastly,  add  the  flour,  folding 
it  in.  Bake  as  directed.  Bake  covered  for  the  first  ten 
minutes. 


CAKE  589 

Jelly  Roll 

3  eggs  i  cupful  pastry  flour 

i  cupful  sugar  i  teaspoonful  cream  of  tar- 

J  cupful  milk  tar 

J  teaspoonful  orange  extract  Scant  i  teaspoonful  soda 
i  teaspoonful  salt 

Beat  the  eggs  slightly,  add  the  sugar,  mix  well,  then 
add  the  salt,  milk  and  flavoring.  Mix  the  flour,  soda  and 
cream  of  tartar,  and  beat  slowly  into  the  mixture. 
Spread  in  a  large,  oiled  and  floured  dripping  pan,  bake 
quickly,  and  turn  out  onto  a  paper  dusted  thickly  with 
sifted  powdered  sugar.  Cut  off  the  edges  (if  over- 
baked),  spread  with  any  beaten  tart  jelly  or  jam,  and  roll 
up  quickly. 

Chocolate  Sponge  Roll 

4  eggs  Few  grains  salt 

i  cupful  sugar  i  teaspoonful  baking  powder 

li  squares  (ounces)  choco-  i  cupful  pastry  flour 

late,  melted  i  teaspoonful  vanilla  extract 
\  cupful  milk 

Beat  together  the  egg  yolks  and  sugar  until  light. 
Add  the  chocolate,  the  milk  and  vanilla,  then  fold  in 
alternately  the  egg  whites,  beaten  stiff,  and  the  flour, 
salt  and  baking  powder,  mixed.  Pour  into  two  square 
pans  and  bake  in  thin  sheets.  Turn  out  on  paper,  sifted 
over  with  confectioner's  sugar.  Quickly  spread  marsh- 
mallow  icing  on  the  cake,  and  roll  up  at  once  like  a  jelly 
roll. 

Caramel  Sponge  Cake 

i  cupful    sugar  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

\  cupful  water  i  cupful  pastry  flour 

5  eggs  I  teaspoonful    salt 

Caramelize  }  cupful  of  the  sugar  and  add  to  it  the 
boiling  water.  When  boiling  hard,  stir  in  the  remaining 
sugar  and  boil  until  it  threads.  Pour  this  syrup  slowly 
into  the  egg  yolks  beaten  until  lemon-colored.  Add  the 
vanilla  and  then  gradually  fold  in  the  flour  mixed  with 
the  salt,  alternately  with  the  egg  whites.  Turn  into  a 
tube  pan  and  bake  from  forty  to  fifty  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven. 


590  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Plain  Sponge  Cake 

4  eggs  £  teaspoonftrl  salt 

i  cupful  sugar  i  cupful  pastry  flour 

£  lemon,  grated  rind  and  i  teaspoonful  baking  powder 
juice 

Separate  the  eggs.  Beat  the  yolks  till  light  and  add 
the  sugar,  lemon  rind  and  juice ;  add  the  salt  and  whip  till 
lemon-colored.  Beat  the  whites  stiff,  mix  the  flour  and 
baking  powder  together,  and  add  the  whites  and  flour 
alternately  to  the  first  mixture,  folding  them  in.  Bake 
as  directed.  Bake  covered  for  the  first  ten  minutes. 

Snow  Basket 

Bake  a  sponge  cake  in  a  good-sized  round  tin.  After 
it  is  a  day  old,  hollow  out  the  crumb,  leaving  the  sides 
an  inch  thick,  ice  it  all  over  with  pale-green  confec- 
tioner's icing,  and  roll  the  sides  and  top  in  cocoanut. 
Scald  a  strip  of  angelica  an  inch  wide,  bend  it  into  handle 
shape,  and  insert  it  in  the  "  basket."  Fill  the  center  with 
snow  parfait,  frozen  stiff,  quickly  arrange  a  spray  of 
holly  or  "  violets  "  in  the  parfait  made  of  angelica  leaves 
and  red  candies  or  candied  violets,  and  place  the  basket 
upon  a  glass  plate,  covered  with  a  paper  doily,  and  gar- 
nish. 

Swedish  Sponge  Cake 

4  eggs  i  cupful  potato  flour 

i  cupful  sugar  4  teaspoonful  baking  powder 

i  teaspoonful  orange  extract          i  teaspoonful  salt 

Separate  the  eggs  and  beat  the  whites  stiff.  Add  the 
sugar  and  then  the  flour  mixed  with  the  baking  powder, 
folding  all  carefully  in.  Finally,  fold  in  the  egg  yolks, 
well-beaten,  and  the  flavoring,  turn  as  quickly  as  pos- 
sible into  an  unoiled  pan,  and  bake  slowly  about  forty 
minutes. 

Sunshine  Cake 

Whites  9  large  eggs  £  teaspoonful  each  lemon  and 

ij  cupfuls   powdered  sugar               orange  extract 

6  egg  yolks  I  teaspoonful  cream  of  tar- 

I  cupful  pastry  flour  tar 

4  teaspoonful  salt 

Whip  the  egg  whites  until  stiff.  Beat  in  the  sugar, 
gradually,  and  add  the  flavoring.  Stir  in  the  egg  yolks, 


CAKE  591 

well-beaten,  and  fold  in  the  flour  mixed  and  sifted  four 
times  with  the  cream  of  tartar.  Bake  fifty  minutes  in  an 
angel-cake  or  long  "narrow  pan  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Gold  and  White  Cake 

5  eggs  i  teaspoonful  cream  of  tar- 
f  cupful  sugar  tar 

I  cupful  sifted  pastry  flour  \  teaspoonful  vanilla 

6  teaspoonful  salt 

Separate  the  eggs.  Whip  the  whites  till  frothy,  then 
gradually  beat  in  the  sugar  and  vanilla.  Sift  the  flour, 
cream  of  tartar  and  salt  together  four  times,  fold  it  in 
and  bake  in  a  round  layer-cake  pan. 

Beat  the  yolks  light,  cream  in  I  cupful  of  sugar,  add  J 
cupful  milk  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Then  mix 
and  sift  thoroughly  i^  cups  pastry  flour,  \  teaspoonful 
soda  and  I  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar.  Fold  into  the 
yolks,  beat  well,  and  bake  in  two  layers.  Put  together 
with  boiled  frosting,  the  white  layer  in  the  middle. 

Angel  Cake 

12  egg  whites  I  teaspoonful  cream  of  tar- 

ii  cupfuls  granulated  sugar  tar 

I  teaspoonful   flavoring  I  cupful  pastry  flour 

&  teaspoonful  salt 

Beat  the  egg  whites  stiff  and  dry.  Beat  in  the  sugar 
gradually,  add  the  flavoring  and  fold  in  the  flour  sifted 
four  times  with  the  cream  of  tartar.  Measure  the  flour 
after  sifting  once.  Work  as  quickly  as  possible,  turn 
into  an  unoiled  angel-cake  pan,  and  bake  forty  to  fifty 
minutes  in  a  very  moderate  oven.  Cover  the  cake  for 
the  first  ten  minutes  with  a  pan,  and  cover  also  for  the 
last  five  minutes. 

Angel  Cake  (Cooked  Syrup) 

ii  cupfuls  granulated  sugar  ii  teaspoonfuls  cream  of  tar- 

i  cupful  hot  water  tar 

ii  egg  whites  I  teaspoonful  vanilla 

i  cupful  pastry  flour 

Beat  the  egg  whites  until  absolutely  stiff.  In  the 
meantime,  cook  together  the  sugar  and  water  for  about 
five  minutes,  or  until  the  syrup  is  very  thick  and  forms  a 
thread  when  a  little  is  dropped  from  a  spoon. 


592  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Pour  this  syrup  into  the  egg  whites,  beating  constantly 
with  a  wire  whisk,  and  whip  until  the  mixture  is  thor- 
oughly blended.  Then  beat  in  the  vanilla.  The  flour 
and  cream  of  tartar  should  previously  have  been  sifted 
together  four  times.  This  should  then  be  gently  folded 
into  the  cooked  mixture  and  the  whole  poured  at  once 
into  an  unoiled,  unlined  pan  and  the  mixture  baked  about 
fifty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  Cover  with  a  pan  for 
the  first  ten  minutes. 

Almond  Sponge  Cake  (Cooked  Syrup) 

i  cupful  sugar  i  teaspoon ful  salt 

•I  cupful  water  \  teaspoonful  almond  extract 

5  eggs  \  cupful  finely-chopped   al- 
i  cupful  pastry  flour  monds 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together,  until  it  threads. 
Beat  the  egg  yolks,  until  thick  and  lemon-colored.  Pour 
on  the  syrup  in  a  thin  stream,  beating  constantly  until 
cold.  Then  add  the  almond  extract. 

Mix  half  of  the  chopped  nuts  with  the  flour  and  fold 
into  the  mixture  alternately  with  the  egg  whites,  beaten 
stiff  and  dry.  Bake  in  little  pans.  Sprinkle  the  top  of 
each  with  a  few  of  the  finely-chopped  nut  meats,  before 
putting  in  the  oven. 


LAYER  AND  LOAF  CAKES 

For  best  results  use  pastry  flour.  Oleomargarine  may 
be  substituted  for  butter  or  other  shortening.  In  substi- 
tuting bread  flour  for  pastry  flour,  use  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  less  to  the  cup. 

Quick  Spice  Cake 

5  tablespoonfuls  soft  lard  or          if  cupfuls  of  pastry  flour 

drippings  i  teaspoonful  salt 

i£  cupfuls  dark  brown  sugar          3  teaspoonfuls  baking  powder 

2  eggs  •     I  teaspoonful   cinnamon 
£  cupfal  cold  water  i  teaspoonful  nutmeg 

i  cupful  raisins     •  4  teaspoonful  clove 

Put  all  the  ingredients  together  and  beat  thoroughly. 
Turn  into  a  rather  large  cake  pan,  and  bake  forty-five 
minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  Cover  with  boiled  or  plain 
confectioner's  icing. 


CAKE  593 

Buttermilk  Spice  Cake 

\  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  \\  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

garine  i  teaspoonful  salt 

1  cupful  brown  sugar  £  cupful  chopped  raisins 
%  cupful  buttermilk  \  teaspoonful  cinnamon 
\  teaspoonful  soda  i  teaspoonful  clove 

2  eggs  Few  grains  nutmeg 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar,  gradually,  then  the 
eggs,  well-beaten.  Mix  the  flour,  salt,  spices,  soda  and 
raisins  together  ar.d  add  alternately  with  the  milk  to  the 
first  mixture.  Bake  in  a  medium-sized  pan  in  a  mod- 
erate oven;  frost  with  lemon  or  vinegar  icing.  This 
keeps  moist  for  two  weeks. 


Marble  Spice  Cake 

i  cupful  sugar  ~k  teaspoonful  salt 

6  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  2!  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

oleomargarine  der 

3  eggs  I  teaspoonful  ground  clove 

\  cupful  milk  i  teaspoonful  cinnamon 

I  teaspoonful  vanilla  I  teaspoonful  mace 
if  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

Cream  the  butter  and  beat  in  the  flavoring,  sugar  and 

eggs,  well-whipped.     Mix  together  the  flour,  salt  and  bak- 

^mg  powder  and  add  alternately  to  the  mixture  with  the 

'milk.     Take  out  one-half  of  the  mixture  and  add  the 

spices.     Choose  two  brick-shaped  pans  or  one  large  pan. 

Spread  in  a  layer  of  plain  dough,  then  a  layer  of  the 

spiced  mixture,  continuing  till  all  is  used.     Bake  in  a 

moderate  oven. 

Loaf  Cake 

i  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  \  teaspoonful  salt 

garine  4  eggs 

1  cupful  milk  3  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

2  cupfuls  sugar  der 

3  cupfuls  pastry  flour  2  teaspoonfuls  flavoring 

Cream  the  butter,  beat  in  the  sugar,  add  the  eggs,  well- 
beaten,  the  flavoring,  and  the  flour  mixed  with  the  salt 
and  baking  powder  alternately  with  the  milk.  Turn  into 
a  large  pan  or  two  brick-shaped  pans  and  bake  in  a  mod- 
erate oven. 


594  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Coffee  Spice  Cake 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  J  teaspoonful  salt 
oleomargarine                                  t  teaspoonful  cinnamon 

i  cupful  sugar  i  teaspoonful    cloves 

i  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses  i  teaspoonful  allspice 

i  cupful  cold  coffee  4  cupful  currants 

i  egg  2i  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

i  teaspoonful  soda  i  cupful  raisins 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar  gradually,  then  the 
eggs,  well-beaten,  and  the  molasses.  Mix  the  flour  with 
the  salt,  spices  and  soda,  and  add  the  fruit.  Add  the 
mixture  alternately  with  the  coffee.  Bake  in  a  long  pan, 
and  frost  with  coffee,  or  boiled  caramel  icing,  or  in  layers 
and  put  together  with  coffee  whipped  cream.  Add  more 
flour,  if  it  seems  necessary. 

Prune  and  Nut  Cake 

I  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  if  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

garine  I  teaspoonful  soda 

1  cupful  sugar  i  teaspoonful  salt 

2  eggs  3  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 
i  cupful  drained  stewed  der 

prunes,   quartered  i  cupful  prune  juice 

1  cupful  chopped   English  i  teaspoonful  orange  extract 

or  black  walnut  meats 

Cream  together  the  butter,  sugar,  egg  yolks  and  ex- 
tract. Mix  the  nuts  and  prunes  with  the  flour  and  bak- 
ing powder.  Add  the  soda  to  the  prune  juice,  then  put 
the  prune  juice  and  flour  mixture  alternately  into  the 
creamed  butter.  Add  the  egg  whites,  beaten  stiff. 
Bake  in  two  layers,  and  put  together  with  a  cream  filling 
flavored  with  orange.  Dust  powdered  sugar  thickly  over 
the  top. 

Ice  Cream  Nut  Cake 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  i  teaspoonful  salt 
oleomargarine                                 2  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

I  cupful  sugar  der 

\  cupful  milk  2  egg  whites 

I  teaspoonful  vanilla  I  cupful  chopped  walnut  or 

ii  cupfuls  pastry- flour  pecan  meats 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar,  gradually,  and  the 
vanilla.  Mix  the  flour  with  the  baking  powder  and  nuts 
and  add  alternately  with  the  milk.  Beat  the  egg  whites 
stiff  and  fold  them  in.  Bake  in  two  layers,  or  in  one 
large  pan. 


CAKE  595 

Walnut  Cake 

I  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  i$  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

garine  2^  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 
i  cupful  sugar  der 

Yolks  3  eggs  Whites  2  eggs 

i  teaspoonful  orange  extract  t  cupful  walnuts,  chopped 
i  teaspoonful  salt 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar,  gradually,  and  the 
egg  yolks,  beaten  until  light.  Mix  the  baking  powder, 
salt,  flour  and  nuts  and  add  alternately  to  the  mixture 
with  the  milk,  and  lastly  fold  in  the  egg  whites  beaten 
stiff.  Bake  -  in  a  moderate  oven  forty-five  minutes. 
Cover  with  plain  confectioner's  or  boiled  frosting,  crease 
in  squares,  and  put  a  walnut  meat  on  each  square. 

Walnut  Cream  Cake 

I  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  £  cupful  milk 

garine  if  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

i  cupful  sugar  2  teaspoonfuls  baking  powder 

i  teaspoonful  salt  3  egg  yolks 

i  teaspoonful  vanilla  i  whole  egg 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  then  blend  in  the  sugar, 
till  fluffy.  Add  the  salt,  vanilla  and  egg  and  egg  yolks, 
well  beaten.  Then  sift  together  the  flour  and  baking 
powder  and  add  alternately  with  the  milk,  beating  well 
with  each  addition.  Bake  in  a  tube  pan  forty-five  min- 
utes in  a  moderate  oven  and  cover  with  walnut  cream 
icing. 

Gold  Cake 

\  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  if  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

garine  4  egg  yolks 

i  cupful  sugar  \  cupful  milk 

i  egg  2  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 
i  teaspoonful   lemon  extract  der 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar,  and,  gradually,  the 
eggs,  slightly  beaten.  Mix  together  the  flour,  salt  and 
baking  powder,  add  alternately  with  the  milk  to  the  mix- 
ture, add  the  flavoring  and  bake  in  a  square  or  tube  pan 
in  a  moderate  oven.  Frost  with  chocolate  icing. 

Silver  Cake 

i&  cupfuls  sugar  t  teaspoonful  almond  extract 

4  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  2j  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

garine  3  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 
4  egg  whites  der 

I  cupful   milk  i  teaspoonful  salt 


596  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar  and  flavoring,  grad- 
ually, and,  when  fluffy,  cream  in  the  egg  whites  a  little 
at  a  time,  without  beating.  Add  the  milk,  and,  last,  the 
flour  mixed  with  the  salt  and  baking  powder.  Bake  in  a 
large  cake  pan  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Strawberry  Cake 

Bake  a  plain  silver  cake  in  two  layers.  Put  together 
with  strawberry  jam,  frost  all  over  with  plain  white 
icing,  cover  the  sides  with  cocoanut,  and  garnish  the  top 
with  a  spray,  fashioned  of  strawberry  candies,  with 
stems  and  leaves  made  of  angelica. 

St.  Valentine's  Cake 

li  cupfuls  sugar  3  cnpfuls  pastry  flour 

£  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  £  teaspoonful  salt 

garine  I  teaspoonful  vanilla 

3  eggs  i  cupful  chopped  nut  meats 

i  cupful  milk  (any  kind) 

3  teaspoonfuls    baking  pow- 
der 

Cream  the  butter,  gradually  beat  in  the  sugar,  then  the 
eggs,  well-beaten,  and  the  vanilla.  Mix  two  cupfuls  of 
the  flour  with  the  baking  powder  and  salt,  and  add  alter- 
nately to  the  mixture  with  the  milk.  Flour  the  nuts  with 
the  remaining  flour  and  fold  into  the  cake.  Bake  in  an 
angel-cake  pan  in  a  moderate  oven.  Frost  and  garnish 
in  valentine  designs,  as  fancy  dictates. 

Ribbon  Cake 

i  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  it  teaspoonful  salt 

garine  i  cupful  milk 

1  cupful  sugar  2i  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

2  eggs  der 
ii  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

I  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Cream  the  butter,  beat  in  the  sugar,  gradually,  and  the 
eggs,  one  at  a  time;  add  the  flavoring.  Mix  the  baking 
powder  with  the  salt  and  flour,  and  add  alternately  to  the 
mixture  with  the  milk.  Put  one-third  of  the  mixture 
into  a  bowl  and  add  to  it  J  teaspoonful  cinnamon,  J  tea- 
spoonful  each  clove  and  grated  nutmeg,  2  tablespoonfuls 
raisins,  quartered,  2  tablespoonfuls  chopped  dried  figs,  I 
tablespoon ful  currants,  i  tablespoonful  chopped  citron, 


CAKE  597 

and  I  tablespoonful  molasses.  Take  one-half  of  the  re- 
maining mixture  and  color  green,  if  convenient.  Bake 
each  mixture  in  a  brick-shaped  or  bread  pan,  in  a  moder- 
ate oven.  When  cold,  put  together  with  raspberry  jam 
and  ice  with  plain  boiled  frosting. 

Pound  Cake 

2  cupftils  sugar  3!  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

if  cupfuls  butter  I  teaspoonful  baking  powder 

8  eggs  &  teaspoonful  salt 

1  teaspoonful  mace 

Cream  the  butter  with  the  hand.  Beat  in  the  sugar 
and  eggs  one  at  a  time.  Mix  the  salt,  mace  and  baking 
powder  with  the  flour  and  work  it  in.  Turn  into  two 
oiled  and  lined  brick-shaped  pans,  and  bake  one  hour  in 
a  very  slow  oven.  Pound  cake  is  not  usually  iced. 

Fruit  Pound  Cake 

2  cupfnls  sugar  I  teaspoonful   lemon   extract 
ij  cupfuls  butter  or  oleomar-          2  tablespoonfuls  milk 

garine  2§  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

8  eggs  i  teaspoonful   salt 

i  teaspoonful  vanilla  i  teaspoonful  baking  powder 

i  cupful  chopped  raisins,  figs 

and  dates  mixed 

Cream  the  butter,  and  beat  in  the  sugar  and  eggs  one 
at  a  time.  Mix  together  the  flour,  salt,  baking  powder 
and  fruit.  Add  the  flavoring  to  the  first  mixture  and  a 
little  of  the  flour,  then  the  milk,  ancl  the  remaining  flour. 
Bake  in  an  oiled  and  lined  pan  in  a  slow  oven  for  an 
hour. 

Nut  and  Raisin  Cake 

I  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  f  cupful  raisins 

garine  3  teaspoon  fuls    baking   pow- 

21  cupfuls  sugar  der 

3  cupfuls  pastry  flour  &  teaspoonful  salt 

3  or  4  eggs  Grated  rind  i  orange 

i  cupful  milk  £  teaspoonful  lemon   extract 

Few  grains  nutmeg  i  teaspoonful  orange  extract 

ii  cupfuls   English  or  black 
walnut  meats 

Cream  the  butter,  beat  the  sugar  in,  gradually,  and 
add  the  eggs,  unbeaten,  one  at  a  time.  Put  the  nut 
meats  and  raisins  together  through  the  food  chopper  and 


598  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

add  to  the  flour,  mixing  well  with  the  salt,  nutmeg  and 
baking  powder.  Add  alternately  to  the  mixture  with  the 
milk ;  stir  in  the  orange  rind  and  flavoring  and  pour  into 
a  large  square  pan.  Bake  slowly  and  ice  with  a  walnut 
cream  icing,  decorating,  if  desired,  with  whole  nuts  and 
raisins. 

Hot  Milk  Cake 

i  cupful  sugar  i£  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 
i  egg  der 

1  cupful  scalded  milk  ii  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

Juice  and  rind  i  lemon  I  teaspoonful    oleomargarine 
i  teaspoonful  salt  or  drippings 

Cream  together  the  shortening,  sugar  and  egg  till 
very  light  colored ;  add  the  warm  milk,  flavoring,  and  salt 
alternately  with  the  flour  and  baking  powder  mixed. 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  in  a  loaf  or  two  layers. 

Inexpensive  Dark  Fruit  Cake 

£  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  £  cupful  milk 

garine  2  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

§  cupful  brown  sugar  &  teaspoonful  salt 

i  cupful  raisins,  seeded  i  teaspoonful  soda 

\  cupful  chopped,  candied  i  teaspoonful  cinnamon 

orange  peel  i  teaspoonful  allspice 

i  cupful  washed  currants  4  teaspoonful  mace 

\  cupful    citron,   minced   fine  -i  teaspoonful  clove 

i  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses  £  teaspoonful  orange  extract 
3  eggs 

Mix  the  flour  with  the  salt,  soda  and  spices,  and  add 
all  the  prepared  fruit  to  it.  Cream  the  butter,  and  beat 
in  the  sugar  and  eggs  and  the  flavoring  and  molasses. 
Add  the  flour  alternately  with  the  milk  to  the  mixture 
till  all  is  in.  Oil  the  pans  thoroughly  and  line  with 
paper.  Pour  in  the  mixture  and  steam  an  hour.  Then 
set  in  a  slow  oven  for  a  second  hour.  Keep  several 
weeks  before  using.  Do  not  ice  until  ready  to  use. 

Light  Fruit  Cake 

i  cupful  butter  or-  oleomar-  3  eggs 

garine  \  teaspoonful  cinnamon 

I  cupful  sugar  \  teaspoonful  clove 

\\  cupfuls  pastry  flour  i  teaspoonful  nutmeg 

3  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow-  I  cupful  currants 

der  •§  cupful  chopped  raisins 

£  teaspoonful  salt  \  cupful  shredded  citron 


COLONIAL  SPONGE  CAKE 


m*       v 


WALNUT  CAKE 


CAKE  599 

1  cupful  chopped  candied  4  cupful  chopped  walnut 
orange  peel  meats 

Mix  together  the  flour,  salt,  baking  powder,  spices, 
nuts  and  fruit.  Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar  and 
beat  in  the  egg  yolks.  Add  the  flour  mixture  alternately 
with  the  milk.  Fold  in  the  egg  whites,  beaten  stiff,  and 
bake  in  an  oiled  and  lined  square  pan  in  a  moderate  oven. 
Frost  with  orange  or  lemon  icing. 

Wedding  Cake 

2  cupfuls  butter  i|  teaspoonfuls  soda 
2  cupfuls  sugar  ij  teaspoonfuls  clove 
10  eggs  i  teaspoonful  ginger 

4  cupful  grape  juice  2  pounds  seeded  raisins 

4  cupful  Barbadoes  mo-  2  pounds  currants 

lasses  2  pounds  candied  orange  peel 

2  teaspoonfuls  mace  i  pound  candied  cherries 

i  teaspoonful  nutmeg  i  pound  candied  pineapple 

4  teaspoonful  salt  4  pound  citron 

4  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

Cream  the  butter  with  the  hand  till  soft,  then  beat  in 
the  sugar.  Add  the  eggs  one  at  a  time,  unbeaten;  turn 
in  the  molasses,  grape  juice  and  spices.  Measure  the 
flour  before  sifting  and  mix  and  sift  with  the  soda.  The 
raisins  and  currants  should  be  previously  washed  and 
dried,  the  cherries  quartered,  citron  shredded  and  the 
pineapple  and  orange  peel  chopped.  Combine  all  this 
fruit  with  the  flour  and  add  to  the  mixture.  Stir  thor- 
oughly. Have  ready  a  large,  round  milk  pan,  well-oiled 
and  lined  with  two  thicknesses  of  paper.  Put  the  mix- 
ture in  this,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper  and  steam  three 
hours.  Then  bake  in  a  very  slow  oven  two  hours  longer. 
Let  cool,  and  put  away  in  a  stone  jar  to  ripen  at  least  a 
month  before  using.  Frost  with  ornamental  icing. 

Delicate  White  Cake 

i  cupful  sugar  £  teaspoonful  salt 

i  cupful  lard  i4  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

3  egg  whites  4  cupful  corn  starch 

1 4  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice          3  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 
Rind  4  lemon  der 

§  cupful  milk 

Cream  the  sugar  and  lard  and  add  the  lemon  juice  and 
rind.  Mix  together  the  flour,  starch,  baking  powder  and 


6oo  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

salt  and  add  alternately  to  the  mixture  with  the  milk. 
Lastly,  fold  in  the  egg  whites,  beat  well  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven.  Ice  with  lemon  or  fruit  frosting. 

Chocolate  Cake 

i  cupful  sugar  2\  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

i  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  der 

garine  ii  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

i  large  egg  &  teaspoonful  salt 

i  cupful  milk  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

2\  squares    (ounces)  choco- 
late 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar,  gradually,  and  beat 
until  creamy.  Separate  the  egg,  and  add  the  yolk, 
beaten  light,  then  the  chocolate,  melted.  Mix  the  baking 
powder,  salt  and  flour,  and  add  to  the  mixture  alter- 
nately with  the  milk.  Then  fold  in  the  egg  white,  beaten 
stiff.  Bake  in  two  layers  twenty-five  minutes  in  a  moder- 
ate oven,  or  make  into  a  loaf  cake  and  bake  forty  minutes. 
Frost  with  confectioner's  or  plain  boiled  icing. 

Chocolate  Fudge  Cake 

i  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  I  cupful  chopped   walnut 

garine  meats    (if  desired) 

1 1  cupfuls  sugar  4  squares  (ounces)  chocolate 

4  eggs  5  tablespoonfuls  hot  water 

ijr  teaspoonful  salt  i  cupful  milk 

it  cupfuls  pastry  flour  2  teaspoonfuls  baking  powder 

I  teaspoonful  vanilla  i  teaspoonful  cinnamon 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar,  gradually,  and  the 
egg  yolks,  unbeaten ;  mix  well,  and  add  the  chocolate, 
melted  and  blended  with  the  hot  water.  Mix  the  flour, 
nuts,  cinnamon  and  baking  powder  and  add  alternately 
to  the  mixture  with  the  milk.  Add  the  vanilla,  and  fold 
in  the  egg  whites,  beaten  dry.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 
Frost  with  fudge  icing,  or  bake  in  layers  and  put  together 
with  white  boiled  frosting. 

Devil's  Food  Cake 

Make  as  Chocolate  Fudge  Cake,  omitting  the  cinna- 
mon and  nuts.  Cover  with  double  chocolate  and  white 
frosting. 


CAKE  601 

Almond  Loaf  Cake 

i  cupful  butter 'or  oleomar-  %  teaspoonful  salt 

garine  i£  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

i  cupful  sugar  t  cupful  shredded  almonds 

4  tablespoonfuls  milk  i  teaspoonful  almond  extract 

i  teaspoonful  baking  powder  4  egg  whites 

Cream  the  butter,  and  beat  in  the  sugar  and  flavoring. 
Mix  the  salt  and  baking  powder  with  the  flour  and 
almonds,  and  add  alternately  with  the  milk  to  the  mix- 
ture. Beat  the  egg  whites  stiff  and  dry,  and  fold  them 
in.  Turn  into  a  tube  pan,  sprinkle  shredded  almonds  over 
the  top  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  As  this  cake  is 
very  sweet,  it  does  not  need  an  icing. 

Apricot  Cake 

i  cupful  sugar  3  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 
i  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  der 

garine  ii   cupfuls   chopped,   drained 
4  egg  whites  canned  apricots 

§  cupful  milk  ,  i  cupful  heavy  cream 

I  teaspoonful  orange  extract  i  cupful  walnut  meats 

2!  cupfuls  pastry  flour  3  tablespoonfuls  powdered 
i  teaspoonful  salt  sugar 

Cream  the  butter,  beat  in  the  sugar  and  flavoring,  and 
then  the  egg  whites  whipped  stiff.  Add  the  milk,  and, 
last,  the  flour  and  baking  powder  mixed  together.  Bake 
in  two  layers.  Put  together  with  the  apricots,  and  pile 
on  the  cream,  sweetened  with  the  powdered  sugar  and 
whipped  stiff.  Sprinkle  with  the  walnuts  chopped 
coarsely. 

Blueberry  Cake 

if  tablespoonfuls  lard  i  cupful  blue  or  huckleber- 

i  cupful  sugar  ries 

i  egg  i  teaspoonful  salt 

2i  cupfuls  pastry  flour  I  cupful  milk 
4  teaspoonfuls    baking    pow- 
der 

Cream  together  the  lard  and  sugar;  add  the  eggs,  salt 
and  vanilla,  then  the  milk  alternately  with  2  cupfuls  of 
the  flour  mixed  with  the  baking  powder  and  berries. 
Bake  in  two  pans  in  a  rather  quick  oven.  This  may 'be 
served  cold,  as  cake,  or  hot,  as  a  bread,  or  with  lemon 
sauce,  as  a  pudding. 


602  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Apple  Sauce  Cake 

i  cupful  sugar  \  teaspoonful  ground  cloves 

6  tablespoonfuls  shortening  i  teaspoonful  cinnamon 

(any  kind)  &  teaspoon ful  nutmeg 

i  teaspoonful  salt  i  teaspoonful  soda,  dissolved 

1  cupful  raisins  in 

2  cupfuls  pastry  flour  i  tablespoonful  of  warm 
i  cupful  sour  apple  sauce  water 

Cream  together  the  sugar  and  shortening.  Mix  to- 
gether the  flour,  salt  and  spices  and  add  the  raisins. 
Dissolve  the  soda  in  the  water,  add  to  the  apple  sauce  and 
beat  into  the  creamed  shortening  and  sugar  alternately 
with  the  flour  mixture.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Easpberry  Cake 

4  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  4  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 
garine  der 

1  cupful  sugar  &  teaspoonful  salt 

2  egg  yolks  \  cupful  milk 

3  egg  whites  \  teaspoonful  orange  extract 
if  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

Cream  the  butter,  and  beat  in  the  sugar  and  egg  yolks. 
Mix  together  the  flour  and  baking  powder  and  add  alter- 
nately with  the  milk  to  the  first  mixture.  Beat  the  egg 
whites  stiff  and  dry  and  fold  them  in.  Pour  into  two 
layer-cake  pans  and  bake  in  a  rather  quick  oven.  Put 
the  layers  together  with  raspberry  jam,  and  finish  with 
raspberry  icing. 

Banana  Cake 

i  cupful  sugar  £  cupful  milk 

3  tablespoonfuls  melted  but-          i*  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

ter  or  oleomargarine  li  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

i  egg  der 

4  teaspoonful  orange  extract          i  teaspoonful  salt 

Beat  the  sugar,  butter,  egg,  extract  and  salt  together. 
Mix  the  baking  powrder  with  the  flour  and  add  alter- 
nately with  the  milk  to  the  first  mixture.  Beat  thor- 
oughly. Bake  in  two  layers  and  put  together  with 
banana  -filling  and  ice  with  plain  frosting. 

One-Egg  Cake 

§  cupful  sugar  iJ  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

i  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  der 

garine  £  cupful  milk 

j  egg  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

ij  cupfuls  pastrv  flour 


CAKE  603 

Cream  the  butter  and  add  the  sugar,  flavoring  and  the 
egg  yolk.  Mix  the  flour  and  baking  powder,  add  alter- 
nately with  the  milk  and  bake  in  a  loaf  or  two  layers. 
In  the  latter  case,  put  together  with  cocoanut  cream  fill- 
ing and  ice  with  plain  frosting. 

Cream  Cake 

Bake  a  one-egg  or  sponge  cake  in  two  layers.  Cool, 
and  put  together  with  Cream  Filling,  and  dust  the  top 
layer  with  sifted  powdered  sugar. 

Country  Cream  Cake 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  £  cupful  milk 

oleomargarine  li  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

1  cupful  sugar  2.\  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

2  eggs  der 

i  teaspoonful  orange  flavor-          i  teaspoonful  salt 
ing 

Make  a  plain  cake  of  the  above  ingredients  and  bake 
in  two  layers.  Remove  the  center  of  one  layer,. moisten 
the  edge  of  the  other  layer  with  egg  white,  and  set  the  rim 
made  from  the  first  layer  on  the  second,  forming  a  hollow 
ring. 

Make  a  corn  starch  pudding  from  the  following  ingre- 
dients, and  fill  the  hollow  with  it : 

I  cupful  corn  starch  I  teaspoonful  salt 

I  cupful  cold  water  2  egg  yolks 

i  cupful  scalded  milk  i  teaspoonful  orange  extract 

Make  meringues  from  the  two  egg  whites,  adding  I 
tablespoonful  of  powdered  sugar  to  each  white.  Drop 
by  spoonfuls  and  bake  them  on  a  well-oiled  pan  in  a 
moderate  oven;  float  them  on  the  corn  starch  mixture, 
and  serve  the  cake  with  fresh,  sugared  strawberries, 
strawberry  sauce,  or  any  fresh  juicy  fruit.  Use  the  un- 
used cake  crumbs  for  stale  cake  pudding. 

Caramel  or  Maple  Cake 

i  cupful  sugar  i  cupful  melted  butter  or 

i  cupful  pastry  flour  oleomargarine 

I  teaspoonful  baking  powder  2  eggs 

Few  grains  salt  Milk 
i  teaspoonful  vanilla 


604  MRS!  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Sift  together  the  sugar,  flour  and  baking  powder. 
Melt  the  butter  in  a  measuring  cup,  add  the  eggs,  and  fill 
the  cup  with  milk.  Beat  this  into  the  flour  mixture, 
flavor  and  bake  as  a  loaf  or  layer  cake.  Put  together 
or  frost  with  a  caramel  or  maple  icing. 

Chocolate  Cream  Cake 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  £  cupful  milk 

oleomargarine  ii  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

1  cupful  sugar  2^  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

2  egg  yolks  der 

i  teaspoonful  vanilla  i  teaspoonful  salt 

i  egg  white  Strawberry  jam 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar,  gradually,  and  the 
egg  yolks,  well-beaten.  Mix  together  the  flour,  salt  and 
baking  powder,  and  add  alternately  to  the  first  mixture 
with  the  milk.  Add  the  egg  white,  beaten  stiff,  and  bake 
in  two  round  layer-cake  pans  in  a  moderate  oven.  Put 
together  with  the  strawberry  jam  and  pile  chocolate 
whipped  cream  on  the  top. 

Orange  Date  Cake 

1  cupful  butter  i£  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

1  cupful  sugar  2  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

2  eggs  der 

i  teaspoonful  soda  i  cupful  stoned  and  quar- 

Grated  rind  i  orange  tered  dates 

i  cupful  orange  juice 

Cream  the  butter,  and  stir  in  the  orange  rind,  salt, 
sugar  and  eggs,  well-beaten;  add  the  soda  to  the  orange 
juice.  Sift  the  baking  powder  into  the  flour,  and  mix 
the  dates  with  2  tablespoonfuls  of  extra  flour.  Add  the 
flour  mixture  alternately  to  the  batter  with  the  orange 
juice,  stir  in  the  dates,  and  bake  in  two  layer-cake  pans 
in  a  moderate  oven.  Put  together  with  orange  filling. 
If  one  of  the  layers  is  sprinkled  with  finely-chopped 
candied  orange  peel  before  baking,  there  will  be  no  neces- 
sity of  icing  the  cake. 

Marshmallow"  Cake 

I  cupful  sugar  i  teaspoonful   lemon    or   va- 

1  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  nilla  extract 

garine  £  teaspoonful  almond  extract 

3  egg  whites  §  cupful  milk 

2  cupfuls  pastry  flour  2  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 
J  teaspoonful  salt  "ier 


CAKE  605 

Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together;  add  the  flavor- 
ings and  alternately  the  milk  and  the  flour  mixed  with 
the  salt  and  baking  powder.  Lastly,  fold  in  the  egg 
whites,  beaten  stiff.  Bake  in  two  layer-cake  pans  and 
put  together  and  frost  with  marshmallow  icing. 

Lemon  Filled  Cake 

Make  a  plain  One-Egg  Cake,  baking  it  in  two  thin, 
round  layers.  When  cold,  put  together  with  a  filling 
made  as  follows: 

Mix  3^  tablespoonfuls  corn  starch  with  6  tablespoon- 
fuls  sugar.  Add  ij  cupfuls  boiling  water,  and  cook  two 
minutes,  stirring  constantly.  Then  add  I  tablespoon  ful 
butter,  i  egg  yolk  and  2  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon  juice, 
beaten  together,  and  stir  until  well-thickened,  about  five 
minutes.  Cool  somewhat,  and  then  put  between  the 
layers,  spread  some  on  top  and  cover  with  a  meringue 
made  from  the  egg  whites,  whipped  with  I  tablespoonful 
of  powdered  sugar.  Set  in  a  slow  oven  to  brown,  and 
serve  cold,  preferably  the  next  day,  when  the  filling  will 
have  permeated  the  cake. 

Peach  Cake 

6  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  ii  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

oleomargarine  2j  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 
i  cupful  sugar  der 

i  egg  i  teaspoonful  salt 

i  teaspoonful  lemon  extract  3  tablespoonfuls  chopped  al- 
i  cupful  milk  monds 

Cream  together  the  butter,  sugar,  egg  and  extract. 
Mix  the  flour  and  baking  powder  together,  and  add  alter- 
nately to  the  mixture  with  the  milk.  Pour  into  two 
layer-cake  pans  and  sprinkle  one  layer  with  granulated 
sugar  and  the  chopped  almonds.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven,  and  put  together  with  peach  filling,  setting  the 
sugared  layer  on  top. 

Pineapple  Cake 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  £  cupful  milk 

oleomargarine  i£  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

1  cupful  sugar  2^  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

2  eggs,  well-beaten  der 

£  teaspoonful  'orange  extract          i  teaspoonful  salt 


6o6  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Cream  the  butter,  and  add  the  sugar,  gradually,  with 
the  eggs  and  flavoring.  Mix  and  sift  together  the  flour, 
salt  and  baking  powder  and  add  to  the  cake  mixture  al- 
ternately with  the  milk.  Bake  in  two  layers  in  a  mod- 
erate oven,  put  together  with  pineapple  filling  and  frost 
with  pineapple  icing. 

Orange  Cake 

Prepare  a  plain  cake  mixture,  according  to  the  recipe 
for  peach  or  pineapple  cake,  baking  it  in  two  layers. 
Put  together  with  orange  filling,  and  frost  with  orange 
icing. 

Eggless  Chocolate  Cake 

i  cupful  sugar  i  cupful  any  kind  of  short- 

1  cupful  sour  milk  ening 

2  tablespoonfuls  cocoa  \  teaspoonfnl  salt 
i  teaspoonful  vanilla  I  teaspoon ful  soda 

2  cupfuls  flour 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar,  gradually,  then  the 
cocoa,  vanilla  and  salt ;  add  the  soda  to  the  sour  milk,  and 
add  alternately  to  the  mixture  with  the  flour.  Bake  in 
layers  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  frost  and  put  together 
with  boiled  butter  icing. 


CHAPTER  XXIII 
COOKIES,  CUP  CAKES  AND  LITTLE  CAKES 

ALL    MEASUREMENTS    ARE   LEVEL 

For  best  results  use  pastry  flour.  Oleomargarine  may 
be  substituted  for  butter  or  other  shortenings. 

Date  Cakes 

\  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-          if  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

garine  3  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 
ij  cupfuls  brown  sugar  der 

2  eggs  4  teaspoonful  salt 

i  cupful  milk  or  water  i  teaspoonful  cinnamon 

1  cupful  shredded  dates  \  teaspoonful  nutmeg 
\  cupful  currants  i  teaspoonful  clove 

Put  all  the  ingredients  together  in  a  bowl  and  beat 
thoroughly.  Bake  in  cup-cake  pans  about  twenty-five 
minutes.  Frost  with  plain  orange  icing. 

Marguerites 

2  eggs  i  teaspoonful  baking  pow- 
i  cupful  brown  sugar  der 

&  teaspoonful  salt  t  cupful  chopped  pecan  or 

\  teaspoonful  vanilla  walnut  meats 

Scant  I  cupful  pastry  flour 

Beat  the  eggs  till  creamy.  Add  the  sugar  and  salt  and 
beat  until  light  with  an  egg-beater.  Add  the  vanilla  and 
the  flour,  mixed  with  the  nut  meats,  reserving  a  few  of 
them  to  put  on  the  top  of  the  cakes  when  they  are  dropped 
in  the  pans ;  this  will  give  them  a  pretty  finish.  Bake  in 
shallow,  fluted,  individual  pans  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Whole  Wheat  Marguerites 

Substitute  fine  whole  wheat  flour  for  the  pastry  flour 
in  the  preceding  recipe. 

607 


6o8  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Marshmallow  Cakes 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  I  teaspoonful  cinnamon 

or  oleomargarine  i  teaspoonful  clove 

1  cupful  powdered  cocoa  £  cupful  cold  water 

2  eggs  i  cupful  flour 

1  cupful  sugar  i  teaspoonful  salt 

3  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 
der 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  cocoa,  egg  yolks,  salt  and 
the  sugar,  mixed  with  the  spices.  Beat  well,  then  add 
the  flour  mixed  with  the  baking  powder,  alternately  with 
the  water;  fold  in  the  egg  whites,  beaten  stiff.  Bake  in 
small  pans  for  twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Frost  with  white  icing,  place  half  a  marshmallow  on 
each  cake,  and  decorate  with  points  of  angelica  and  red 
candies,  if  desired. 

Honey  Cup  Cakes 

&  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  £  'cupful  broken  walnut  or 

garine  pecan  meats 

\  cupful  sugar  2s  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

2  eggs,  well-beaten  2  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 
Juice  and  rind  \  lemon  der 

I  cupful  honey  £  teaspoonful  salt 

Cream  the  butter  and  add  the  sugar,  gradually.  Beat 
in  the  lemon  and  the  eggs.  Mix  together  the  flour,  salt 
and  baking  powder.  Stir  in  the  broken  nut  meats  and 
mix  well.  Add  alternately  to  the  cake  mixture  with  the 
honey,  and  bake  either  in  cup  cakes  or  a  loaf. 

Hallowe'en  Cakes 

Prepare  a  sponge  cake  mixture  and  bake  in  small 
round  pans. 

Frost  with  orange  icing  and,  when  hardened,  outline 
Jack  o'  Lantern  faces  with  chocolate  icing  by  means  of 
pastry  bag  and  tube  or  a  toothpick,  and  indicate  the  teeth 
with  white  candies  known  as  "  Hundreds  and  Thou- 
sands." 

Little  Violet  Cakes 

Make  as  Hallowe'en  cakes,  ice  with  plain  boiled  frost- 
ing, and  decorate  with  candied  violets  and  angelica  leaves 
and  stems. 


COOKIES,  CUP  CAKES,  LITTLE  CAKES      609 

Currant  Cup  Cakes 

ii  cupfuls  sugar  2\  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

t  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  &  teaspoonful  salt 

garine  3  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

4  eggs  der 

I  cupful  milk  I  cupful  cleaned  currants 

i  teaspoonful  mace  or  nut- 
meg 

Cream  the  butter,  and  beat  in  the  sugar  and  the  eggs, 
thoroughly.  Mix  together  the  mace,  salt,  flour  and 
baking  powder  and  add  the  currants.  Stir  in  one-half 
cupful,  and  add  a  little  milk,  continuing  until  all  is  in. 
Beat  very  thoroughly  and  bake  in  fancy  individual  cake 
pans  in  a  moderate  oven.  These  will  keep  fresh  for  a 
month. 

Small  Gold  Cakes 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  I  teaspoonful    baking   pow- 

oleomargarine  der 

6  tablespoonfuls  sugar  I  teaspoonful  orange  extract 

4  egg  yolks  4  tablespoonfuls  milk 

i  cupful  flour  i  cupful  candied  orange  peel 

&  teaspoonful  salt 

Cream  the  butter,  beat  in  the  sugar,  the  egg  yolks,  well- 
whipped,  and  the  extract.  Mix  the  baking  powder,  salt, 
and  2  tablespoonfuls  of  the  chopped  orange  peel  with  the 
flour,  and  add  alternately  with  the  milk  to  the  mixture. 
Turn  into  heart-shaped  or  fluted  pans  and  bake  in  a  mod- 
erate oven.  Ice  with  orange  frosting,  and  sprinkle  with 
the  remaining  orange  peel. 

One-Egg  Cup  Cakes 

Prepare  the  mixture  for  one-egg  cake,  adding  to  the 
flour  a  half  cupful  of  cleaned  currants,  halved  raisins, 
nut  meats,  or  cocoanut.  Frost  with  any  desired  icing. 

Little  Mistletoe  Cakes 

Bake  any  light  cake  mixture  in  fancy  shapes.  Frost 
with  confectioner's  icing,  tinted  pale  green,  and  orna- 
ment with  wreaths  of  mistletoe,  the  berries  being  of 
white  candies  and  the  leaves,  halves  of  pistachio  nuts. 

Little  Partridge  Berry  Cakes 
Make  some  little  shallow,  round  pound  cakes.     Ice  with 


6io  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

pale-green  or  white  frosting,  and  decorate,  with  halves  of 
pistachio  nuts,  red  -candies  and  angelica  stems,  to  repre- 
sent partridge  berry  vine. 

Maple  Cup  Cakes 

f  cupful  new  maple  sugar,  3  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

scraped  der 

i  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  §  cupful  milk 

garine  J  teaspoonful  salt 

3  egg  whites  i£  cupfuls  pastry  flour 
I  teaspoonful  vanilla  extract  i  cupful  corn  starch 

Cream  together  the  sugar,  salt,  butter  and  vanilla. 
Add  the  milk  and  the  flour  mixed  with  the  baking  pow- 
der, alternately.  Then  fold  in  the  egg  whites  and  bake 
in  cup-cake  pans.  Frost  with  maple  icing  and  sprinkle 
with  broken  hickory  or  walnut  meats. 

Bernhardts 

Prepare  the  mixture  for  caramel  cake.  Bake  in  deep 
cup-cake  pans,  place  a  whole  marshmallow  on  each  cake 
and  ice  it  over  with  chocolate  frosting,  covering  the 
sides ;  finish  with  a  nut  on  top. 

Mocha  Cakes 

I  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  2%  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

garine  der 

I  cupful,  sugar  3  egg  whites 

$  cupful  strong  coffee  I  cupful  broken  walnut 
\  teaspoonful  vanilla  meats 

if  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

Cream  the  butter,  and  beat  in  the  sugar  and  vanilla. 
Mix  the  flour  and  baking  powder  together,  stir  in  the 
walnut  meats,  and  add  alternately  to  the  mixture  with 
the  coffee.  Lastly,  fold  in  the  egg  whites,  beaten  stiff. 
Bake  in  low  straight-side  cup-cake  pans,  ice  thinly  with 
mocha  frosting,  roll  in  cocoanut,  decorate  on  top  with 
the  frosting  put  through  a  pastry  bag  and  tube  and  finish 
with  a  candied  cherry. 

-    Cocoanut  Squares 

1  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  I  cupful  milk 

garine  2!  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

2  cupfuls  sugar  3  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

4  eggs  der 
i  teaspoonful  vanilla 


COOKIES,  CUP  CAKES,  LITTLE  CAKES       611 

Cream  the  butter,  beat  in  the  sugar,  add  the  flavoring 
and  the  eggs,  well-beaten.  Mix  the  baking  powder  with 
the  flour  and  add  alternately  with  the  milk  to  the  mix- 
ture. Bake  in  a  dripping  pan  and,  when  cold,  cut  in 
squares.  Roll  in  soft-boiled  icing,  and  then  in  cocoanut. 
Decorate  with  candied  rose  leaves,  or  violets,  if  desired. 

Sponge  Butter  Cakes 

Scant  4  cupful  butter  4  eggs 

i  cupful  sugar  ii  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

Rind  £  lemon  i  teaspoonful  salt 

i  tablespoonful    lemon  juice          i  teaspoonful  soda 

Cream  the  butter,  beat  in  the  sugar  and  add  the  egg 
yolks,  well-beaten.  Mix  the  soda  with  the  flour.  Add 
the  lemon  juice  and  rind  to  the  first  mixture.  Beat  the  egg 
whites  stiff  and  dry  and  add  alternately  with  the  flour  to 
the  mixture,  folding  them  in.  Bake  in  oiled  and  lined 
pans  in  a  moderate  oven.  Frost  with  walnut  or  any  fruit 
icing. 

Fudge  Brownies 

i  cupful  sugar  §  cupful  pastry  flour 

i  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  2  eggs 

garine  2  squares   (ounces)   choco- 
£  cupful  milk  late 

I  cupful  chopped  hickory  or  i  teaspoonful  salt 

walnut  meats  i  teaspoonful   vanilla 

Cream  the  butter  and  sugar, .add  the  milk,  the  eggs, 
slightly  beaten,  the  flour,  salt  and  chocolate,  melted;  then 
add  the  nuts  and  vanilla.  Spread  one-fourth  an  inch 
thick  on  a  shallow  pan.  Bake  fifteen  minutes  in  a  mod- 
erate oven,  and  cut  in  squares  like  fudge  while  still 
warm. 

Gingersnaps 

t  cupful  sugar  i  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses 

6  tablespoonfuls  melted  lard  2  teaspoonfuls  ground  gin- 
i  teaspoonful  pepper  ger 

i  teaspoonful  soda,  dissolved  i  teaspoonful  salt 

in  About  4  cupfuls  pastry  flour 
1  cupful  warm  water 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given,  and  add  enough 
flour  to  roll  out,  keeping  as  soft  as  possible.  Roll  very 
thin,  shape  with  a  cutter  and  bake  about  eight  minutes 
in  a  quick  oven. 


612  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Cocoanut  Jumbles 

T  cupful  butter  i  teaspoonful  salt 

2  cupfuls  sugar  4  tablespoonfuls  milk 

2  eggs  4  tablespoonful   vanilla 

3  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow-  Pastry  flour  to  roll  (about  5 
der  cupfuls) 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar,  gradually,  the  eggs, 
well-beaten,  and  the  baking  powder,  milk  and  vanilla, 
with  enough  flour  to  roll.  Roll  very  thin,  shape  with  a 
doughnut  cutter,  dust  with  granulated  sugar  and 
shredded  cocoanut,  and  bake  about  eight  minutes  in  a 
quick  oven. 

Lemon  Wafers 

i  cupful  sugar  Grated  rind  and  juice  i  lemon 

4  cupful  butter  and   lard   in          i  teaspoonful   salt 

equal  quantities  i  teaspoonful   lemon   extract 

I  egg  i  cupful  milk 

i£  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow-  About  3  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

der 

Cream  the  shortening,  add  the  sugar;  beat  in  the 
egg,  lemon  juice  and  extract.  Add  the  milk,  and  mix 
in  the  flour,  salt  and  baking  powder,  leaving  the  mixture 
rather  soft.  Cover  and  set  aside  for  a  few  hours.  Then 
add  more  flour,  if  necessary,  roll  very  thin,  dust  with 
granulated  sugar  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Nut  Wafers 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  ii  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

oleomargarine  der 

I  cupful  sugar  i£  teaspoonfuls   orange   ex- 

1  egg,  well-beaten  tract 

2  tablespoonfuls  milk  i  cupful  nut  meats  chopped 
\  teaspoonful  salt  fine 

About  2  cupfuls  flour 

Cream  the  butter,  beat  in  the  sugar,  egg,  milk  and 
flavoring.  Mix  the  nuts,  baking  powder  and  salt  with 
the  flour,  add  gradually  to  the  mixture,  and  let  stand 
covered  for  an  hour.  Then  roll  thin  and  bake.  Add 
more  flour  if  necessary.  If  desired,  the  cookies  may  be 
brushed  over  with  slightly  beaten  egg  white,  then  dusted 
with  chopped  walnut  meats  before  baking.  This  gives 
an  attractive  finish. 


COOKIES,  CUP  CAKES,  LITTLE  CAKES       613 

Afternoon  Crisps 

%  cupful  butter  i  egg  yolk 

I  cupful  sugar  Pastry  flour 

Grated  rind  i  orange  Candies,  nuts,  etc.,  for 

i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice  decoration 

i  egg 

Cream  the  butter  and  stir  in  the  sugar,  orange  rind 
and  lemon  juice  and  the  eggs.  Beat  in  flour  till  stiff 
enough  to  knead.  Chill  over  night,  then  roll  very  thin 
and  cut  into  fancy  shapes.  Brush  over  with  the  remain- 
ing egg  white,  slightly  beaten  with  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
cold  water,  and  decorate  to  simulate  wreaths,  poinsettia 
blossoms,  etc.,  with  nuts,  pistachio  meats,  candied  cher- 
ries, violets,  rose  leaves,  etc. 


Thin  Chocolate  Cookies 

J  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  £  teaspoonful  vanilla 

garine  i£  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

I  square   (ounce)   chocolate,  ii  tablespoonfuls  milk 

melted  i  teaspoonful  salt 

i  cupful  sugar  \  cupful  chopped  almonds 

I  egg  (optional) 

i  teaspoonful  baking  powder 

Cream  together  the  butter,  sugar,  egg,  chocolate  and 
vanilla.  Add  the  milk  and  work  in  a  cupful  of  the  flour 
mixed  with  the  baking  powder  and  salt ;  add  the  remain- 
ing flour  to  make  the  mixture  stiff  enough  to  roll, 
chill,  divide  in  halves,  roll  very  thin  and  shape  with  a 
small  cutter.  Dust  with  the  almonds,  if  used,  and  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven. 

Lady  Fingers 

3  egg  whites  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

1  cupful  powdered  sugar  4  cupful  pastry  flour 

2  egg  yolks  4  teaspoonful  salt 

Beat  the  egg  yolks,  slightly;  add  the  sugar,  then  beat 
the  whites  stiff,  and  fold  in  alternately  with  the  flour 
and  salt  mixed.  Then  add  the  vanilla.  Shape  with  a 
large  plain  pastry  tube  and  bag  on  paraffine  paper.  Bake 
in  a  slow  oven,  and,  when  done,  turn  upside  down  on  a 
board,  dampen  the  paper  with  a  cloth,  turn  right  side  up 
and  remove. 


614  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Honey  Drop  Cookies 

£  cupful  butter  or  oleomar-  3  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 

garine  2  egg  whites,  whipped 

£  cupful  granulated  sugar  3^  cupfuts  pastry  flour 

1  cupful  honey  J  teaspoonful  salt 

2  egg  yolks,  beaten  I  teaspoonful  soda 

Grated  rind  i  lemon  i  cupful  chopped  nut  meats 

Cream  the  butter,  beat  in  the  sugar  and  add  the  egg 
yolks  and  lemon.  Then  stir  in  three  cupfuls  of  the  flour 
and  the  soda  sifted  together,  alternately  with  the  honey. 
Fold  in  the  beaten  egg  whites  and  stir  in  the  nut  meats, 
floured  with  the  remaining  fourth  cupful  of  flour.  Drop 
by  teaspoonfuls  onto  a  buttered  baking  pan  two  inches 
apart.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Sprinkle  with  shred- 
ded cocoanut  before  baking,  if  desired. 

Frosted  Ginger  Nuts 

4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  i  cupful  pastry  flour 

oleomargarine  ii  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

1  cupful  sugar  der 

2  egg  yolks  i  teaspoonful  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls  milk  f  cupful  chopped  candied 

i  teaspoonful  lemon  extract  ginger 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar,  egg  yolks,  well- 
beaten,  the  milk  and  the  extract.  Mix  together  the 
flour,  salt,  baking  powder  and  the  ginger.  Add  to  the 
mixture  and  drop  by  teaspoonfuls  on  a  well-oiled  pan, 
three  inches  apart.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  and,  wrhen 
cooled,  frost  with  plain  white  icing  and  decorate  with 
candied  cherries  and  angelica  if  desired. 

Drop  Molasses  Cookies 

§  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses  f  cupful  raisins 

\  cupful  sugar  i  egg 

i  cupful  melted  drippings  3!  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

\  cupful  sweet  milk,  and  I  teaspoonful  salt 

i\  teaspoonfuls   soda  or  i  teaspoonful  clove 

4  cupful  sour  milk  and  i  teaspoonful  cinnamon 

i  teaspoonful  soda  i  teaspoonful  nutmeg 

Combine  in  the  order  given,  mixing  the  soda  with  the 
flour.  Drop  on  an  oiled  pan  by  large  teaspoonfuls,  three 
inches  apart.  Put  a  raisin  in  the  center  of  each,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 


COOKIES,  CUP  CAKES,  LITTLE  CAKES       615 

Drop  Olive  Oil  Cookies 

Substitute  olive  oil  for  the  drippings  in  the  preceding 
recipe,  and  proceed  as  directed. 

Dropped  Peanut  Cookies 

6  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  i£  cupfuls  p'astry  flour 

oleomargarine  2  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

1  cupful  sugar  der 

2  egg  yolks  i  teaspoon ful  salt 

3  tablespoonfuls  milk  li  cupfuls  chopped  peanuts 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar,  the  egg  yolks,  well- 
beaten,  and  the  milk.  Mix  the  flour,  salt  and  baking 
powder  together  and  beat  into  the  mixture.  Add  the 
peanuts  and  drop  by  teaspoonfuls  onto  a  well-oiled  pan, 
three  inches  apart.  Place  a  whole  nut  in  the  center  of 
each,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Rolled  Marshmallow  Wafers 

i  cupful  butter  I  cupful  confectioner's  sugar 

£  cupful  milk  ij  cupfuls  pastry  iiour 

ii  teaspoonfuls  flavoring  Marshmallows 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar,  gradually,  and  then 
the  flour  and  milk  alternately  until  all  is  in.  Spread  the 
mixture  very  thin  on  the  bottom  of  small  dripping  pans, 
inverted  and  buttered  lightly.  Bake  until  firm  and  pale- 
colored,  cut  in  squares,  sprinkle  on  the  marshmallows, 
which  should  be  cut  in  very  small  pieces,  and  roll 
quickly  into  tubular  shapes.  The  mixture  may  be 
divided  into  three  parts,  colored  with  red  and  green 
vegetable  coloring,  and  the  third  left  white. 

Rolled  Nut  Wafers 

Add  -|  cupful  finely-chopped  walnut  meats  to  the  in- 
gredients for  Marshmallow  Wafers,  and  proceed  as  di- 
rected, omitting  the  marshmallows. 

Rolled  Ginger  Wafers 

Omit  the  flavoring  in  Marshmallow  Wafers,  substitut- 
ing two  teaspoonfuls  of  powdered  ginger.  Proceed  as 
directed. 


6i6  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Pistachio  Macaroons 

i  cupful  butter  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

i  cupful  powdered  sugar  4  teaspoonful  almond  extract 

ii  cupfuls  pastry  flour  i  cupful  chopped  pistachio 

3  egg  yolks  nuts 

1  cupful  chopped  almonds 

Cream  the  butter  until  soft,  then  beat  in  the  sugar,  egg 
yolks,  almonds  and  flavoring.  Work  in  the  flour,  form 
into  balls  the  size  of  a  walnut,  and  roll  gently  in  the 
powdered  sugar  and  pistachio  nuts.  Set  an  inch  apart 
on  a  slightly  oiled  and  floured  cookie  sheet,  press  a  pis- 
tachio nut  on  the  top  of  each  one  and  bake  about  fifteen 
minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  Half  of  the  mixture  may 
be  decorated  with  candied  cherries,  if  desired,  in  place  of 
the  pistachio  nuts. 

Saltine  Marguerites 

2  egg  whites  2  tablespoonfuls  shredded 
\  cupful  powdered  sugar  cocoanut 

i  cupful  chopped  English  Saltine  crackers 

walnuts 

Beat  the  egg  whites  until  nearly  stiff,  then  whip  in  the 
sugar.  Add  the  nuts  and  the  cocoanut.  Spread  upon 
crisp  saltine  crackers,  and  bake  in,  a  moderate  oven  until 
delicately  browned. 

Marshmallow  Crackers 

Select  crisp  crackers  slightly  sweetened  —  as  butter 
thins.  Butter  lightly,  put  a  teaspoonful  of  minced  Eng- 
lish walnut  meats  in  the  center  of  each,  and  a  marsh- 
mallow  stuck  with  a  raisin  on  the  nuts.  Set  in  the  oven 
till  the  marshmallow  is  melted  and  slightly  browned. 
Serve  within  twenty-four  hours. 

Scotch  Short  Bread 

4  cupfuls  pastry  flour  £  cupful  powdered  sugar 
2*  cupfuls  butter  i  teaspoonful   nutmeg 

Rub  the  ingredients  together  with  the  hands,  until  per- 
fectly blended.  Pack  half  an  inch  deep  into  shallow  pans 
lined  with  parafftne  paper  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
until  browned.  Just  before  it  is  done,  cut  into  squares 
or  wedges  with  a  knife.  Serve  with  tea. 


COOKIES,  CUP  CAKES,  LITTLE  CAKES       617 

"  Spritbakelser  " 

I  cupful  butter  2  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

I  cupful  sugar  der 

About  3  cupfuls  pastry  flour  2  tablespoonfuls  minced  al- 

1  teaspoonful   salt  monds 

2  eggs  I  teaspoonful  grated  orange 

rind 

Cream  the  butter  and  sugar,  add  the  eggs,  well-beaten, 
then  the  almonds  and  orange  rind.  Mix  and  sift  the 
baking  powder  with  a  cupful  of  the  flour  and  beat  it  in. 
Add  the  remaining  flour  as  needed  to  roll.  Cut  in  fancy 
shapes  and  decorate,  if  desired.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Whole  Wheat  Cookies 

2  cupfuls  whole  wheat  flour  i  teaspoonful  salt 

2  cupfuls  pastry  flour  1  teaspoonful  soda 

i  cupful  sugar  4  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

i  cupful  hot  water  oleomargarine 

Mix  together  the  flours,  sugar  and  salt.  Melt  the 
butter  in  hot  water,  add  the  soda  and  beat  the  flour 
mixture  into  this,  until  it  is  thick  enough  to  be  handled. 
Roll  out  as  thinly  as  possible;  shape  with  a  cutter,  and 
bake  in  a  slow  oven. 

Scotch  Nut  Cookies 

i  cupful  butter,  or  £  cupful  chopped  nuts    (any 
i  cupful  drippings  or  lard  kind) 

1  cupful  sugar  2  egg  whites 

2  egg  yolks,  well-beaten  2  cupfuls  rolled  oats 
i  cupful  milk  2  cupfuls  pastry  flour 
I  cupful  raisins  i  teaspoonful  soda 

i  teaspoonful  salt 

Cream  the  shortening,  beat  in  the  sugar,  the  egg  yolks 
and  the  milk.  Flour  the  raisins  and  nuts,  stir  them  in,  add 
the  egg  whites,  beaten  dry,  and  the  rolled  oats.  Mix  and 
sift  the  soda  with  the  flour,  add  to  the  mixture  and  roll 
into  a  thin  sheet.  Cut  into  shapes,  and  bake  in  a  mod- 
erate oven. 

Bran  Cookies 

\  cupful  beef  drippings  \  teaspoonful   salt 

1  cupful  sugar  i  teaspoonful  soda 

2  eggs  i  cupful  raisins  or  dates 

1  cupful  sour  milk  quartered  or  cocoanut 

2  cupfuls  bran  I  teaspoonful  orange  extract 
2  cupfuls  pastry  flour 


6i8  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Cream  the  drippings,  beat  in  the  sugar,  eggs  and  extract 
and  add  the  milk.  Mix  the  raisins  with  the  flour  and  add 
the  soda.  Beat  this  into  the  mixture,  add  the  bran,  roll 
out  into  a  thin  sheet,  cut  in  squares  and  bake.  The 
raisins  may  be  omitted  if  desired. 

Old-Time  Seed  Cookies 

6  tablespoonfuls  butter  3  tablespoonfuls  caraway 

i  egg  (seed) 

1  cupful  sifted  confectioner's  4  teaspoonful  rose  extract 
sugar  i  cupful  pastry  flour 

Cream  together  the  butter,  sugar  and  eggs.  Add  the 
flavoring  and  caraway  seed,  and  beat  in  the  flour.  Drop 
by  teaspoonfuls  on  an  oiled  pan  two  inches  apart,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  the  edges  are  brown.  It 
is  a  good  plan  to  sprinkle  the  cakes  with  a  few  caraway 
seeds  just  before  baking.  Remove  from  the  pan  imme- 
diately, when  taken  from  oven. 

Oatmeal  Macaroons 

2  eggs  I  teaspoonful  salt 

i  cupful  sugar  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

i  tablespoonful  melted  but-  2!  cupfuls  rolled  oats 

ter  or  oleomargarine 

Beat  the  eggs  light,  and  whip  in  the  sugar.  Add  the 
other  ingredients  in  the  order  given,  and  mix  thoroughly. 
Drop  from  a  teaspoon  onto  a  well-oiled  cookie  sheet, 
shaping  into  symmetrical  rounds.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven. 

Plain  Sugar  Cookies 

i  cupful  butter  3  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 

I  cupful  lard  der 

i  cupful  sugar  Pastry  flour  to  roll,  about  3± 

4  tablespoonfuls  milk  cupfuls 

i  or  2  eggs  2i  teaspoonfuls  flavoring 

Cream  the  shortening.  Add  the  sugar,  milk,  the  eggs, 
well-beaten,  and  the  flavoring.  Mix  the  baking  powder 
in  3  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour  and  add.  If  the  mixture  does 
not  seem  stiff,  add  another  half  cupful  of  flour,  then 
cover  and  let  stand  several  hours  so  that  the  flour  may 
swell.  Roll  to  one-quarter  inch  thickness,  shape  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  about  ten  minutes.  One-half 


DROPPED  NUT  COOKIES 


FROSTED  GINGER  NUTS, 
OLD  TIME  SEED  COOKIES  AND  HONEY  DROP  COOKIES 


COOKIES,  CUP  CAKES,  LITTLE  CAKES      619 

teaspoonful  of  nutmeg,  and  one  teaspoonful  rose  water  is 
the  old-fashioned  flavoring. 

Chocolate  Drop  Cookies 

i  cupful  butter  I  tablespoonful  milk 

i  cupful  sugar  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

3  eggs  2  cupfuls  pastry  flour 

ii  squares     (ounces)    choco-          2  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow- 
late  der 

Cream  the  butter,  beat  in  the  sugar  and  eggs,  and  the 
vanilla ;  beat  well,  and  stir  in  the  chocolate,  melted.  Sift 
together  the  flour  and  baking  powder  and  add  alternately 
with  the  milk  to  the  first  mixture.  Drop  by  teaspoonfuls 
on  an  oiled  baking  sheet,  one  inch  apart.  Press  an 
English  walnut  meat  on  each  cake,  or  dust  thickly  with 
shredded  cocoanut.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Meringue  Shells 

4  egg  whites  i  cupful  granulated  sugar 
I  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Beat  the  egg  whites  stiff  and  dry.  Then  add  the  first 
half  cupful  of  sugar,  whipping  the  mixture  until  glossy. 
Then  add  the  vanilla  and  fold  in  the  remaining  sugar. 
Tack  heavy  paraffine  paper  on  wooden  boards  and  draw 
circles  on  it  two  inches  apart,  the  size  of  the  mer- 
ingues desired.  Then  pipe,  or  spread,  the  meringue  mix- 
ture within  these  circles,  and  bake  them  an  hour  in  a  very 
slow  oven.  They  should  not  brown  during  the  first  half 
hour. 


CHAPTER  XXIV 
ICINGS  AND  FILLINGS 

ALL    MEASUREMENTS   ARE    LEVEL 

It  is  unnecessary  to  ice  a  cake  to  have  it  look  attrac- 
tive ;  in  fact,  cake  which  is  iced  should  be  used  only  when 
it  is  to  act  as  the  sweet  in  the  meal.  If  a  plain  layer 
cake  is  made,  it  can  be  attractively  garnished  with  pow- 
dered sugar  sifted  on  evenly  just  before  serving,  or  a 
few  broken  nut  meats  finely  chopped,  or  candied  fruit, 
may  be  sprinkled  over  the  mixture  before  it  is  put  in  the 
oven  to  bake,  the  rough  edges  making  a  pretty  finish. 
Or,  a  combination  of  chopped  almonds  and  granulated 
sugar  may  be  substituted.  This  is  very  attractive  on 
small  cakes.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  spread  the  top  very 
lightly  with  jelly,  egg  white  or  honey  before  sprinkling 
the  sugar  on  a  cooked  cake,  as  this  will  stick  it  in  place. 

The  easiest  icings  are  those  which  need  no  cooking. 
They  may  be  made  with  either  water,  cream,  cold  coffee, 
butter,  fruit  juices,  or  egg  white,  but  in  making  them  only 
confectioner's  or  XXXX  sugar  should  be  used.  This 
should  be  sifted,  or,  if  very  lumpy,  rolled,  and  then  sifted 
before  adding  to  the  liquid. 

To  Ice  a  Cake 

To  ice  a  cake  to  the  best  advantage,  it  should  be  at 
least  twenty-four  hours  old.  First  brush  off  the  crumbs. 
If  an  elaborate  cake  is  being  made,  it  is  always  best  to 
put  a  preliminary  plain  confectioner's  icing  to  "  stick  in 
the  crumbs."  This  makes  a  hard  surface,  to  which  the 
ornamental  icing  can  be  applied.  Put  the  cake  on  a  box, 
or  an  icing  stand,  with  a  plate  beneath  it  to  catch  all  the 
extra  icing  that  may  drop  off,  as  this  can  be  used  over 
and  over.  Spread  the  icing  with  a  broad-bladed  knife, 
or,  better  still,  a  spatula,  as  this  is  limber,  dipping  it  first 

620 


ICINGS  AND  FILLINGS  621 

in  hot  water.  This  can  be  done  in  using  either  cooked 
or  uncooked  icing.  All,  of  course,  must  be  in  place 
before  the  icing  is  "  set."  If  a  design  is  to  be  applied, 
first  put  on  a  plain  icing,  and,  when  almost  dry,  trace  on 
it  the  design,  or  the  place  where  the  fruit,  etc.,  is  to  be 
applied,  so  that  it  will  be  even  when  finished. 

To  make  an  attractive  looking  cake,  it 'is  not  at  all 
necessary  to  use  a  pastry  bag  and  tube  to  apply  the  ordi- 
nary ornamental  icing,  for  most  attractive  results  can  be 
gained  by  using  little  candies  which  can  be  made  into 
flower  designs  of  roses,  holly,  mistletoe,  etc.,  with  the 
aid  of  leaves  and  stems  cut  from  angelica  to  give  the 
green  necessary. 

To  Prepare  Angelica 

Scald  it  in  hot  water,  dry  it  thoroughly  on  cheesecloth 
or  paper  towels,  and  then  cut  in  the  desired  shapes. 

Using  a  Pastry  Bag  and  Tubes 

Choose  a  bag  made  of  heavy  duck.  The  necessary 
tubes  are  the  Star,  Rose  Leaf  tube,  a  small  plain  tube, 
and  a  large  plain  tube.  More  may  be  added  as  desired ;  or 
a  pastry  tube  outfit  may  be  purchased.  This  is  a  Swedish 
invention  and  is  arranged  so  that  the  filling  or  a  frost- 
ing, or  whatever  it  is  to  be  piped  on,  is  put  in  a  tin  cylin- 
der ;  the  tubes  fit  tightly  into  place  in  the  bottom,  and  the 
piston,  which  is  easily  operated  by  the  hand,  presses  out 
the  mixture  evenly. 

To  use  a  bag  and  tube,  adjust  the  tube  firmly  in  posi- 
tion ;  make  sure  that  it  will  not  slip  out  of  the  opening  at 
the  base  of  the  bag.  To  this  end  it  is  best  to  purchase 
a  ring,  which  will  fit  into  the  end  of  the  bag,  into  which 
the  tube  may  be  tightly  fitted.  Fill  the  bag  a  scant  half 
full  of  the  mixture,  twist  the  top  of  the  bag  with  the 
right  hand  and  guide  the  tube  with  the  left,  forcing  out 
the  mixture  by  a  gentle  pressure  with  the  right  hand.  It 
is  impossible  to  give  absolute  directions  for  the  making 
of  the  different  shapes  and  designs  with  a  pastry  bag 
and  tube.  The  best  method,  if  a  lesson  cannot  be  taken 
from  some  expert  in  this  line,  is  for  the  housewife  to 
make  up  the  recipe  for  Duchess  potato.  This  can  be  ex- 
perimented with  over  and  over  again  as  long  as  it  is  kept 


622  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

hot,  and  it  is  a  very  easy  matter  to  find  out  just  what  can 
be  done  with  the  tubes. 

Confectioner's  Frosting 

2  tablespoonfuls  cream  or  Confectioner's   sugar,  about 

boiling  water  i^  cupfuls 

i  teaspoonful  flavoring 

To  the  liquid  stir  in  enough  sifted  sugar  to  make  of 
the  right  consistency  to  spread,  and  then  add  the  flavor- 
ing. Fresh  fruit  juice  may  be  used  in  place  of  the  boil- 
ing water. 

Plain  Chocolate  Frosting 

Use  the  proportions  as  given  in  the  preceding  recipe 
for  Confectioner's  Frosting,  and  add  with  the  sugar  ij 
tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  cocoa. 

Raspberry  or  Strawberry  Frosting 

1  cupful  syrup  from  canned  Sifted  confectioner's  sugar  to 
raspberries  or  strawberries  spread,  about  ij  cupfuls 

i  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

Heat  the  syrup,  add  the  lemon  juice  and  beat  in  the 
sugar  until  of  the  right  consistency  to  spread  on  the 
cake. 

Raisin  Frosting 

2  tablespoonfuls  boiling  i  teaspoonful  vanilla  or 
water  orange  extract 

i£  cupfuls  confectioner's  i  cupful  chopped  raisins 

sugar 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given  and  spread  as 
directed. 

Rich  Chocolate  Icing 

1 1  squares  (ounces)   of  i  egg  yolk 

chocolate  (shaved)  i  teaspoonful  melted  butter 

2  tablespoonfuls   hot  cream  Confectioner's  sugar 

Few  grains  salt     •  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Melt  the  chocolate  in  the  cream.  Pour  into  the  salt, 
egg  yolk  and  butter,  beaten  together.  Stir  in  confec- 
tioner's sugar  until  of  the  right  consistency  to  spread, 
then  flavor  and  beat  well. 


ICINGS  AND  FILLINGS  623 

Cocoanut  Icing 

2  tablespoonfuls  boiling  i£  cupfuls  confectioner's 

water  sugar 

i  teaspoonful  vanilla  i  cupful  shredded  cocoanut 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given.  If  not  suffi- 
ciently stiff,  add  a  little  more  sugar.  Spread  on  the  cake 
as  directed,  and  sprinkle  immediately  with  more  cocoa- 
nut. 

Snow  Frosting 

i  teaspoonful  corn  starch  Confectioner's   sugar    (about 

i  cupful  water  ii  cupfuls) 

i  tablespoonful    lemon    juice 

Boil  the  corn  starch  and  water  five  minutes,  add  the 
lemon  juice  and  stir  in  the  sugar  till  of  the  right  con- 
sistency to  spread. 

Orange  or  Lemon  Frosting 

1  egg  yolk  Few  grains  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls  orange  or  Confectioner's   sugar  to 
lemon  juice  spread 

Add  the  fruit  juice  and  salt  to  the  egg  yolks.  Beat 
slightly,  and,  gradually,  whip  in  confectioner's  sugar  to 
spread. 

Vinegar  Frosting 

2  egg  whites,  beaten  stiff  i  teaspoonful  lemon  extract 

i  tablespoonful  vinegar  Confectioner's  sugar  to 

1  tablespoonful  corn  starch  spread,  about  2  cupfuls 

Beat  together  all  the  ingredients,  adding  sugar  until 
the  frosting  is  stiff  enough  to  spread.  This  is  especially 
good  on  a  spice  cake. 

Quick  Coffee  Icing 

2  tablespoonfuls  very  strong         Confectioner's  sugar  to 
coffee  spread,  about  li  cupfuls 

I  tablespoonful  cream 

Heat  the  coffee,  add  the  cream  and  vanilla,  and  grad- 
ually beat  in  the  confectioner's  sugar  until  the  frosting  is 
of  the  right  consistency  to  spread. 

Ornamental  Frosting 

4  egg  whites  $  teaspoonful  cream  of  tar- 

4  cupfuls   confectioner's  tar 

sugar 


624  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Beat  the  egg  whites  with  -J  cupful  of  the  sugar  for 
three  minutes;  then  commence  adding  sugar  in  equal 
quantities,  beating  between  the  additions  till  half  is  used. 
Add  the  cream  of  tartar  with  the  third  cupful  of  sugar; 
then  continue  adding  sugar,  a  little  at  a  time,  till  a  knife 
makes  a  "  clean  cut "  in  the  frosting.  It  is  then  ready 
to  use. 

Maple  Icing 

i  egg  yolk  Confectioner's  sugar 

3  tablespoonfuls  maple  syrup          Chopped  walnuts  or  hick- 
Few  drops  vanilla  ory  nuts 

Mix  together  the  egg  yolk,  syrup  and  vanilla,  and  beat 
in  sifted  confectioner's  sugar  till  stiff  enough  to  spread. 
Sprinkle  the  cake,  when  iced,  with  the  chopped  nuts. 

Mocha  Frosting 

i£  cupfuls  confectioner's  2!  tablespoonfuls  strong 

sugar  coffee 

i  teaspoonful  vanilla  i  tablespoonful   cocoa 

il  tablespoonfuls   butter 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  cocoa  and  powdered  sugar, 
gradually,  until  it  begins  to  get  thick,  then  add  a  little  of 
the  coffee  and  sugar,  alternately,  putting  the  vanilla  in 
last. 

Boiled  Frosting 

i  cupful  sugar  i  egg  white 

i  cupful  water  Flavoring 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  until  it  threads.  Pour  the 
syrup  in  a  fine  stream  onto  the  egg  white  which  has 
been  beaten  dry;  flavor  and  beat  until  thick  enough  to 
spread,  or  return  to  a  double  boiler  until  the  edges  are 
dry,  and  the  frosting  will  hold  its  shape  when  dropped 
from  the  spoon  onto  a  cold  plate,  or  onto  the  frosting 
itself. 

Boiled  Chocolate  Frosting 

Make  according  to  the  preceding  recipe  for  Boiled 
Frosting,  adding  a  square  and  a  half  (ij  ounces)  of 
shaved  chocolate  to  the  syrup  when  put  on  to  cook. 

Fig  Frosting  or  Filling 

Make  according  to  the  recipe  for  Boiled  Frosting  and 
add  ij  cupfuls  of  chopped  dried  figs,  just  before  the 


ICINGS  AND  FILLINGS  625 

frosting  is  ready  to  spread.     This  also  makes  a  delicious 
cake  filling. 

Marshmallow  Frosting 

Make  according  to  the  recipe  for  Boiled  Frosting  and 
add  five  quartered  marshmallows  just  before  beating  the 
mixture. 

Walnut  Cream  Frosting 

Make  according  to  the  recipe  for  Boiled  Frosting,  add- 
ing a  half  cupful  of  coarsely-chopped  walnuts  or  hickory 
nut  meats  before  beating  the  mixture. 

Boiled  Orange  Frosting 

Prepare  the  mixture  for  plain  Boiled  Frosting,  and, 
just  before  beating,  add  £  teaspoonful  of  finely-grated 
orange  rind  and  i  teaspoonful  of  orange  juice. 

Double  Chocolate  and  White  Frosting 
Prepare  according  to  the  recipe  for  Boiled  Frosting; 
spread  it  on  the  cake,  and,  when  it  is  stiff,  pour  on  a  thin 
layer  of  melted  chocolate,  either  the  ordinary  cooking 
chocolate,  which  will  give  a  slightly  bitter  taste,  or  dip- 
ping chocolate,  as  is  used  for  candies. 

Boiled  Butter  Frosting 

ii  cupfuls  sugar  2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

i  cupful  water  Few   drops   vanilla 

Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  then  boil  together, 
without  stirring,  until  it  threads.  Add  the  vanilla,  and, 
when  tepid,  beat  until  it  is  thick  enough  to  spread. 

Boiled  Coffee  Frosting 

i  cupful  clear  cold  coffee  2  cupfuls  granulated  sugar 

£  teaspoonful  cream  of  tar-          i  cupful  coffee 
tar  i  cupful  milk 

Mix  together,  stir  until  dissolved,  and  boil,  without 
stirring,  until  a  very  soft  ball  is  formed  in  cold  water; 
remove  from  the  heat,  cool  until  tepid,  add  a  few  drops 
of  vanilla,  if  desired,  and  beat  until  creamy. 

Boiled  Caramel  Frosting 

i  cupful  brown  sugar  2  egg  whites 

$  cupful  granulated  sugar  *  teaspoonful  vanilla 

i  cupful  water 


626  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  until  it  threads.  Pour  slowly 
onto  the  egg  whites,  beaten  stiff,  and  beat  until  nearly 
cool;  then  cook  over  boiling  water  until  the  mixture  be- 
comes slightly  dry  around  the  edges.  Remove  from  the 
heat  and  beat  until  it  will  hold  its  shape. 

Caramel  Nut  Frosting 

Add  a  half  cupful  of  broken  English  walnuts,  hickory 
nuts  or  black  walnuts  to  the  boiled  caramel  frosting  just 
before  spreading  on  the  cake. 

Boiled  Maple  Walnut  Icing 

I  pound  maple  sugar  £  cupful  broken  walnut, 

i  cupful  boiling  water  hickory  nut,  or  black 

i  egg  white  walnut  meats 

Scrape  the  sugar ;  add  the  water  and  boil  until  the  mix- 
ture threads.  Pour  slowly  onto  the  egg  white,  beaten 
stiff;  add  the  nut  meats  and  beat  until  thick  enough  to 
spread. 

Pineapple  Filling  and  Frosting 

i  cupful   shredded  canned  2  cupfuls  granulated  sugar 

pineapple  2  egg  whites 

•k  cupful  cocoanut,  if  de-  I  teaspoonful    orange    ex- 
sired  tract 

f  cupful  boiling  juice  from 
canned  pineapple 

Boil  the  pineapple  juice  and  sugar  until  it  threads. 
Flavor  with  the  extract.  Select  two  bowls,  and  have 
ready  in  each  one  a  beaten  egg  white.  Pour  one-half  the 
syrup  onto  one  of  them,  add  the  pineapple  (well  drained) 
and  the  cocoanut  and  beat  till  stiff.  Spread  and  set  the 
second  layer  in  position.  In  the  meantime,  keep  the  re- 
maining syrup  warm,  pour  onto  a  second  egg  white,  beat 
till  it  will  hold  its  shape,  and  ice  the  top  layer. 

Apple  Frosting 

i  cupful  sugar  i  egg  white 

&  cupful  water  i  tart  apple 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water,  until  it  threads.  Beat  the 
egg  white  stiff  .and  pour  the  syrup  slowly  into  it.  Tn  the 
meantime,  have  the  apple  grated  and  beat  it  slowly  into 


ICINGS  AND  FILLINGS  627 

the  frosting;  flavor,  if  desired,  with  orange  extract,  and 
spread. 

Fudge  Frosting 

2  cupfuls  sugar  i  cupful  milk 

2  squares  (ounces)  choco-  &  teaspoonful  cream  of  tar- 
late  tar 

I  tablespoonful  butter  '•$.  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Boil  the  ingredients  together,  without  stirring,  until  a 
soft  ball  can  be  formed,  when  a  little  is  tried  in  cold 
water.  Cool  until  tepid,  add  the  vanilla,  beat  until  thick 
and  spread. 

Marshmallow  Fudge  Frosting 

Add  J  cupful  quartered  marshmallows  to  the  preceding 
mixture  just  before  beating. 

Tutti  Frutti  Filling 

2  tablespoonfuls  granulated  J  teaspoonful   orange  ex- 
gelatine  soaked  in  tract 

1  cupful   water  3  tablespoonfuls  mixed 

2  cupfuls   sugar  candied  fruits 

\  cupful  cold  water  2i  tablespoonfuls  chopped 

4  teaspoonful  vanilla  extract  nuts  (any  kind) 

Boil  the  sugar  and  cold  water  until  it  threads.  Dis- 
solve the  gelatine  over  steam,  and  pour  the  syrup  slowly 
onto  it ;  add  the  vanilla.  Set  in  cold  water,  beat  until 
thick  and  then  stir  in  the  candied  fruits  and  nuts,  chopped 
fine.  Spread  thickly  between  two  layers  of  cake. 

Peach  Filling 

li  cupfuls  canned  or  dried  3  tablespoonfuls  corn   starch 

peach   juice   and  chopped  i  cupful  sugar 

pulp  A  little  lemon  rind,  or 

\  teaspoonful  salt  i  teaspoonful  lemon  extract 

Mix  the  corn  starch,  sugar  and  salt.  Add  the  peach 
juice,  boiling  hot,  and  boil  for  five  minutes,  stirring  often. 
Cool  and  flavor.  If  the  lemon  rind  is  used,  it  should  be 
put  in  the  fruit  juice  when  it  is  heating. 

Orange  Filling 

3  tablespoonfuls  flour  I  cupful  orange  juice 

1  cupful  sugar  I  tablespoonful  lemon   juice 

I  egg,  slightly  beaten  I  tablespoonful  butter 

Grated  rind  one  orange 


628  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given  and  cook  ten 
minutes  in  a  double  boiler,  stirring  constantly.  Cool  be- 
fore spreading. 

Orange  Date  Filling 

Add  J  cupful  of  chopped  dates  to  Orange  Filling  just 
before  spreading. 

Banana  Filling 

4  bananas  i  tablespoonful  corn  starch 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar  Few  grains  salt 

i  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

Put  the  banana  pulp  through  the  potato  ricer,  and 
scald  it  with  the  sugar,  corn  starch  and  salt.  Cool,  add 
the  lemon  juice  and  use  as  a  cake  or  sandwich  filling. 

Cream  Filling 

i  cupful  milk  I  teaspoonful  vanilla  or 

6  tablespoonfuls  sugar  other  flavoring 

4  tablespoonfuls  flour  Few  grains  salt 

i  egg 

Scald  three-fourths  cupful  of  the  milk  and  thicken 
with  the  flour  dissolved  in  the  extra  milk.  Beat  together 
the  sugnr,  egg  and  salt  and  add  to  the  milk  and  thicken- 
ing; cook  over  hot  water  for  fifteen  minutes,  stirring 
occasionally.  Cook  before  adding  the  flavoring.  This 
will  put  together  two  layers  of  cake. 

Cocoanut  Cream  Filling 

Add  one-half  cupful  shredded  cocoanut  to  the  above 
recipe  just  before  removing  it  from  the  heat. 

Chocolate  Cream  Filling 

Add  ij  squares  (ij  ounces)  of  shaved  chocolate  to  the 
milk  in  the  recipe  for  Cream  Filling  when  it  is  put  on  to 
scald;  then  finish  as  directed.  Increase  the  sugar  to  i 
cupful. 

Coffee  Cream  Filling 

Scald  a  tablespoonful  of  ground  coffee  in  the  milk, 
according  to  the  directions  for  Cream  Filling,  and  pro- 
ceed as  directed. 


ICINGS  AND  FILLINGS  629 

Chocolate  Jelly  Filling 

2  squares   (ounces)   choco-  i  teaspoonful  butter 

late  2  tablespoon fuls  corn  starch, 
I  cupful  boiling  water  dissolved  in 

f  cupful  sugar  \  cupful  cold  water 
i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Melt  the  chocolate.  Add  the  boiling  water,  sugar  and 
butter,  and  then  the  corn  starch.  Boil  at  least  five 
minutes.  Cool  and  flavor. 


CHAPTER  XXV 
PASTRY 

ALL   MEASUREMENTS   ARE   LEVEL 

The  making  of  pastry  is  a  rock  on  which  many  house- 
wives stumble.  There  are  several  reasons  for  this ;  prob- 
ably the  most  pertinent  is  that  most  women  feel  that  the 
making  of  pie,  or  anything  allied  to  it,  is  a  very  difficult 
task,  success  being  given  to  only  a  chosen  few.  Another 
reason  is  because  this  fearful,  heavy  mental  attitude  re- 
tards the  hand,  and,  therefore,  makes  the  touch  heavy; 
successful  pastry  cannot  be  made  if  the  process  is  drawn 
out,  or  if  it  is  mussed  over.  A  great  deal  has  been  said 
about  the  necessity  for  chilling  all  the  utensils,  using  ice 
water,  etc.,  but  when  we  remember  what  delicious  pies  we 
have  frequently  eaten,  which  were  made  by  old-fashioned 
cooks  who  heeded  neither  cold  nor  measurement  in  par- 
ticular, we  can  see  that  this  argument  does  not  hold 
good.  Any  woman,  given  a  good  recipe,  and  working 
quickly,  can  make  a  delicious  pie,  provided  she  under- 
stands the  baking.  Pastry  flour  gives  the  best  results. 

Pastry  enough  for  two  or  three  bakings  may  be  made 
at  a  time,  rolled  up,  dusted  with  a  little  flour,  and  set 
in  a  cool  place  in  a  covered  utensil  until  needed.  Or,  if 
desired,  several  extra  patty  shells  may  be  baked  at  once, 
stored  in  a  tin  box,  and  kept  a  week  or  two  before  using; 
re-heating  will  make  them  as  delicious  as  when  freshly 
made.  This  is  an  especially  good  plan  to  follow  during 
the  berry  season,  when  a  strawberry  or  raspberry  tart 
may  be  made  in  a,  few  minutes  if  the  shell  is  ready. 

Putting  the  Pie  Together 

It  is  not  necessary  to  oil  a  pie  plate,  for  there  is  enough 
fat  in  the  crust  to  make  this  unnecessary.  Probably  the 
most  satisfactory  pie  plates  are  in  the  new  cooking  glass 

630 


PASTRY  631 

and  it  is  an  especially  attractive  ware,  if  the  pie  plate  is 
to  appear  on  the  table. 

The  brown  earthen  plates,  which  are  quite  deep,  and 
which  fit  into  silver  or  nickle  holders,  are  also  excellent 
for  thick  pies,  like  custard  or  lemon. 

The  crust  should  be  rolled  out  to  a  scant  one-eighth 
of  an  inch,  or  pasteboard,  thickness.  In  lining  the  plate, 
lay  the  crust  on,  loosely.  Do  not  make  it  taut  or  it  will 
crisp  and  break  during  the  baking.  Cut  it  off  to  within 
one-fourth  of  an  inch  of  the  edge  of  the  plate  by  means 
of  scissors.  If  a  berry  or  other  juicy  pie  is  being  made, 
bestrew  the  bottom  crust  with  a  few  fine  dry  bread 
crumbs,  or  cracker  crumbs,  or  a  little  flour.  This  will 
absorb  at  once  the  excessive  moisture  and  prevent  the 
crust  from  being  soaked.  Or,  the  bottom  crust  may  be 
"  painted  "  with  a  little  unbeaten  egg  white,  which  will 
coagulate  as  soon  as  the  heat  reaches  it  and  make  an 
impervious  coating.  After  the  filling  is  put  in,  the  top 
crust  may  be  put  in  position.  This  should  also  be  rolled 
to  pasteboard  thickness,  and,  like  the  bottom  crust, 
should  extend  from  one-eighth  to  one-fourth  inch  beyond 
the  edge  of  the  plate.  The  extending  edge  of  the  lower 
crust  should  be  lightly  rubbed  with  cold  water  before 
placing  on  the  top  crust,  which  should  be  cut  in  the 
middle  according  to  the  time-honored  custom,  to  allow 
for  the  emission  of  steam,  as,  otherwise,  this  is  liable  to 
make  the  crust  soggy  inside. 

To  achieve  an  appetizing  brown  result,  brush  the  pie 
lightly  with  milk  before  putting  it  in  the  oven.  It  may 
be  dotted  with  butter  or  other  fat,  as  well,  which  will 
make  it  look  a  little  more  flaky,  but  this  is  not  necessary. 
If  dotted  with  fat  alone,  it  will  look  spotty. 

If  a  very  juicy  pie  is  to  be  made,  it  is  sometimes  neces- 
sary to  bind  the  outer  edge  of  the  plate  with  a  thin  strip 
of  cloth  (or  "  finger  bandage  "  if  expense  does  not  have 
to  be  considered).  To  do  this,  press  together  the  edges 
of  the  pie,  as  directed.  Have  the  strip  of  cloth  about  an 
inch  wide,  dip  it  in  water,  or  milk,  and  simply  bind  it 
around  the  edge  of  the  plate,  making  it  fairly  tight. 

In  making  tart  shells,  or  shells  for  lemon  pie  or 
cooked  fruit,  put  the  crust,  rolled  to  pasteboard  thickness, 
on  the  inverted  plate,  putting  it  on  so  that  it  fits,  but 


632  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

cutting  it  off  on  the  bottom  even  with  the  edge  of  the 
plate.  Prick  it  at  the  flange  of  the  plate  with  a  fork  so 
that  the  expansion  of  the  air  underneath  will  not  cause 
it  to  rise  irregularly  in  bubbles,  and  prick  it  occasionally 
on  the  top  (that  is  the  inverted  bottom),  and  also  a  few 
times  near  the  edge. 

Baking  Pies 

The  oven  for  all  pies  should  be  fairly  hot  —  at  first 
about  375  degrees  —  in  order  to  set  the  crust  so  that  the 
filling  will  not  soak  in.  As  the  filling  heats  through,  the 
heat  may  be  reduced  to'  about  350  degrees.  Squash, 
custard  and  pumpkin  pies,  or  any  pie  that  contains  egg 
as  a  thickening  agent,  should  not  be  cooked  so  rapidly 
that  the  filling  will  boil,  as  this  causes  separation,  and 
will  make  the  pie  watery.  When  done,  the  center  should 
be  firm,  and  a  knife,  when  inserted,  will  come  out  clean. 

Thick  fruit  pies,  like  an  old-fashioned  apple  pie,  or  a 
berry  pie,  will  need  longer  cooking  than  those  that  are 
less  thick.  Generally  speaking,  a  thin  apple  pie  will  cook 
in  thirty-five  to  forty  minutes;  more  time  should  be  al- 
lowed for  a  thicker  one.  Mince  pies,  which  have  a 
cooked  filling,  will  be  done  in  twenty-five  minutes ;  thick 
fresh  fruit  pies  will  need  from  forty  to  fifty  minutes. 
Custard,  squash  and  pumpkin  pies  should  be  baked  until 
they  are  firm  in  the  center,  or  when  a  knife,  if  inserted, 
will  come  out  clean ;  this  will  be  in  about  forty  minutes. 

When  a  pie  is  to  be  topped  with  a  meringue,  it  should 
be  put  on  ten  minutes  before  the  pie  will  be  done.  The 
finishing  must  be  done  in  a  very  slow  oven;  the  secret 
of  a  good  meringue  lies  in  this  slow  cooking. 

If  the  following  recipe  is  heeded,  and  time  is  allowed 
for  cookery,  the  meringue  will  be  tender,  will  not  fall 
and  will  not  be  watery. 

Meringue  for  Pies  and  Puddings 

2  egg  whites  A  few  drops  of  flavoring  ex- 

2  tablespoonfuls    powdered  tract  or  lemon  juice 

or  confectioner's  sugar 

Whip  the  whites  until  stiff,  but  not  until  they  look 
dull,  like  snow.  Then  beat  in  the  sugar  and  flavoring, 
whipping  until  the  mixture  looks  shiny.  Do  not  have 


PASTRY  633 

the  surface  upon  which  the  meringue  is  to  be  spread  too 
hot.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  about  ten  minutes  for  a 
meringue  of  moderate  thickness  —  longer  for  a  very 
thick  meringue.  If  a  larger  quantity  is  desired,  use  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  to  each  additional  egg  white.  If 
over-baked,  the  meringue  will  be  tough.  If  under-baked, 
bubbles  of  liquid  will  collect  on  the  surface. 

Puff  Paste 

2\  cupfuls  pastry  flour  i  scant  half  cupful  water 

\  teaspoonful  salt  ii  cupfuls   butter 

Sift  together  the  flour  and  salt  and  cut  in  the  butter 
with  a  knife,  doing  it  all  on  a  board.  Then  take  out  the 
large  floured  lumps  and  heap  up  the  mealy  flakes  to  form 
a  well.  Stir  in  ice  water  to  moisten  but  not  to  make  it 
wet.  Flour  the  mixture  a  little  and  roll  out  to  one-half 
inch  thickness.  Put  on  this  one-half  of  the  floured 
lumps  of  butter.  Fold  over  the  top,  press  the  edges  to- 
gether firmly,  and  roll  this  into  a  long  strip.  Then  lay  on 
the  remaining  bits  of  butter  as  directed,  doubling  it  in  the 
opposite  direction.  Flour  slightly,  fold  in  threes  and 
fours,  chill  for  at  least  one  hour  and  unroll  the  same  way 
in  which  it  is  rolled  before  chilling. 

French  Pastry 

The  French  Pastry  which  we  find  in  the  best  hotels 
and  tea-rooms  has  as  a  foundation  the  Puff  Paste  given 
in  the  preceding  recipe. 

The  paste  may  be  rolled  into  squares,  or  strips,  and 
folded  over  as  fancy  may  dictate,  the  filling  being  of 
cooked  fruit,  jam,  marmalade  or  even  a  cooked  cream 
filling,  or  sweetened  and  flavored  whipped  cream.  Any 
of  the  pastries  seen  in  the  hotels  may  be  copied  by  an 
observing  housewife. 

Patty  Shells 

Patty  shells  may  be  made  from  the  formula  for  Puff 
Paste.  After  the  paste  has  been  thoroughly  chilled,  cut 
out  rounds  one-quarter  inch  in  thickness,  and  place  them 
on  a  pan  lined  with  brown  paper.  Lightly  rub  the  edges 
of  these  rounds  with  cold  water.  Then  cut  out  rings 
one-quarter  of  an  inch  wide  of  the  pastry  of  exactly  the 


634  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

same  size  as  the  larger  rounds.  Press  one  of  these 
lightly  in  position  on  each  of  the  large  rounds.  Brush 
this  lightly  with  a  little  cold  water.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  about  thirty-five  minutes,  covering  the  shells  with 
paper  during  the  preliminary  cooking.  They  will  raise 
and  be  flaky  and  may  be  used  with  a  filling  of  oysters, 
creamed  sweetbreads,  chicken  and  mushrooms,  or  with 
crushed  and  sweetened  fruit  of  any  kind.  If  higher 
patty  shells  are  desired,  put  on  two  of  the  narrow  rounds 
of  pastry  instead  of  one. 

Short-Cut  Pastry 

3  tablespoonfuls  chicken  fat  i  cupful  pastry  flour 
or                                                      i  teaspoonful  salt 

5  tablespoonfuls  lard 

Sift  together  the  flour  and  salt  and  stir  in  the  chicken 
fat  (or  the  chicken  fat  substitute  melted  to  the  consist- 
ency of  chicken  fat).  It  must  not  be  hot.  Moisten  with 
cold  water  till  of  the  consistency  to  roll.  Roll  out  and 
use.  This  makes  a  very  tender  crust  and  is  enough  for 
one  pie. 

Flaky  Pastry 

1  cupful  pastry  flour  About  6  tablespoonfuls  cold 
5  tablespoonfuls  lard  water 

2  teaspoonful  salt 

Combine  the  salt  and  flour  and  work  in  one-half  the 
lard  with  the  finger  tips,  keeping  the  mixture  coarse  and 
flaky.  Moisten  the  dough  with  ice  water,  turn  on  a 
slightly-floured  board,  dust  with  flour,  pat  and  roll  out. 
Fold  in  the  remaining  lard  (which  should  be  rather  soft) 
by  placing  the  other  half  of  the  crust  over  it;  press  the 
edges  together  firmly  to  incase  as  much  air  as  possible, 
press  with  the  rolling  pin  and  roll  it  out.  Fold  again  and 
roll.  Do  this  three  times.  This  quantity  will  make  one 
pie  with  two  crusts,  or  one  pie  with  the  crust  built  up. 

Short  Biscuit  Paste  for  Meat  or  Fish  Pies 

2!  cupfuls  bread  flour  6  tablespoonfuls  butter  or 

4  teaspoonfuls  baking  pow-  oleomargarine 
der                                                    i  teaspoonful  salt 

Milk  to  make  a  stiff  dough 

Mix  and  sift  the  flour,  salt  and  baking  powder.     Work 


PASTRY  635 

in  4  tablespoonfuls  of  the  butter  and  moisten  to  make  a 
stiff  dough.  Turn  onto  a  floured  board,  pat  to  one- 
quarter  inch  thickness,  and  spread  with  I  tablespoon  ful 
of  butter ;  fold  over,  roll  out  and  repeat  with  the  remain- 
ing butter.  Fold,  roll,  and  cut  in  desired  shape. 

Apple  Pie 

4  or  5  tart  apples  i  teaspoonful  salt 

§  cupful  sugar  I  teaspoonful  butter 

\  teaspoonful  grated  nut-  I  teaspoonful  lemon  juice 

meg  Pastry 

Line  a  pie  plate  with  pastry.  Pare,  core  and  cut  the 
apples  into  eighths,  or  thin  slices,  and  arrange  evenly  in 
the  plate.  Mix  the  sugar  and  flavorings  together  and 
sprinkle  over  the  apples.  Dot  with  the  butter  and  finish 
according  to  general  directions  for  baking  pie. 

Marlboro  Pie 

2  cupfuls  tart  apple  sauce  Juice  and  rind  one  lemon 

i  cupful  sugar  3  eggs 

1  tablespoonful  flour  Pastry 

Add  the  sugar,  flour  and  lemon  to  the  apple  sauce. 
Beat  the  egg  yolks  lightly,  add  to  the  mixture  and  pour 
into  a  plate  lined  with  flaky  pastry.  Bake  until  firm  in 
the  center,  then  cover  with  a  meringue  made  of  the  egg 
whites,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  and  a  few 
drops  of  lemon  juice.  Finish  in  a  slow  oven.  Serve 
cold. 

Double  Apple  Pie 

Butter  two  pie  plates  of  corresponding  size.  Fill  each 
with  sliced,  tart  apples,  mixed  with  a  cupful  of  sugar  and 
a  little  nutmeg  or  cinnamon.  Cover  with  a  flaky  top 
crust  and  bake.  To  serve,  turn  one  pie,  with  the  filling, 
onto  a  large  plate,  top  with  the  second  pie,  apple  side 
up,  and  accompany  with  plain  or  whipped  c^n*^ 

Astrakan  Apple  Custard  r<e 

4  to  6  astrakan  apples,                    I  teaspopi                   -g,  or  the 

sliced  thin  Juice  and  gruica   rind    "f   \ 

2  eggs  lemon 
I  cupful  milk  Pastry 
f  cupful  sugar 

Line  a  pie  plate  with  the  pastry.     Slice  the  apples  thin 


636  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

and  combine  them  with  the  sugar,  the  nutmeg,  or  lemon. 
Put  in  the  pie  plate.  Beat  the  egg  yolks,  slightly,  com- 
bine them  with  the  milk,  pour  over  the  apples  and  bake 
gently  about  thirty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  Just 
before  the  apples  are  tender  and  the  custard  is  set,  pile  on 
a  meringue  made  of  the  egg  whites  and  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  powdered  sugar.  Bake  slowly  ten  minutes  longer. 

Peach  Custard  Pie 

Substitute  sliced  peaches  for  the  apples  in  the  preceding 
recipe. 

Plain  Rhubarb  Pie 

i£  cupfuls   impeded  rhu-  Fine  cracker  or  bread  crumbs 

barb  cut  in  dice  ii  tablespoonfuls   butter 

ii  cupfuls  sugar  Pastry 

1  egg 

Sprinkle  the  lower  crust,  as  directed,  with  crumbs. 
Beat  the  egg,  add  the  sugar  and  rhubarb,  and  spread 
over  the  lower  crust.  Put  on  the  top  crust  and  finish 
according  to  general  directions. 

Rhubarb  and  Raisin  Pie 

ij  cupfuls  rhubarb,  diced  2  rolled  crackers 

4  cupful  halved  raisins  i  egg 

ii  cupfuls  sugar  Pastry 

Line  a  pie  plate  with  pastry.  Mix  together  the  rhu- 
barb, raisins,  sugar,  crackers  and  egg.  Fill  the  plate, 
and  cover  entirely  with  crust  or  make  a  lattice  top,  and 
bake  according  to  general  directions. 

Rhubarb  Tart 

Prepare  Baked  Rhubarb  and  thicken  with  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  corn  starch  to  each  cupful  of  rhubarb. 
Add  a  dash  of  lemon  juice.  Bake  a  pastry  shell ;  pour 
in  this  mixture  before  it  is  entirely  cold  and  lay  on,  criss- 
cross, strips  of  baked  pastry,  or  figures  cut  from  pastry 
and  baked. 

Cranberry  and  Raisin  Tart 

2  cupfuls  cranberries  \  cupful  cracker  or  dry  bread 
•J  cupful  seeded  raisins  crumbs 

I  cupful  sugar  I  egg 

i  tablespoonful  orange  juice  Pastry 


PASTRY  637 

Add  a  half  cupful  of  water  to  the  cranberries  and 
raisins,  and  simmer  gently  until  the  cranberries  pop 
open.  Sweeten,  cool,  add  the  grange  juice,  crumbs  and 
egg,  and  turn  into  a  pie  plate  lined  with  pastry.  Finish 
the  top  with  crisscross  strips  of  pastry  to  represent  Tattice 
work  and  bake  according  to  general  directions. 

Fruit  Turnovers 

Shape  any  kind  of  pastry  into  rounds  of  the  size  de- 
sired. They  should  be  as  large  as  a  small  saucer.  Put 
a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  raw  and  sweetened  fruit,  or 
cooked  sweetened  fruit  on  one-half  of  each  round, 
moisten  the  edges  with  cold  water,  fold  over  and  press 
together  with  the  fingers  or  a  fork.  Brush  over  with 
milk  and  bake  according  to  the  general  directions  for  pie, 
or  fry  in  deep  fat  hot  enough  to  brown  a  bit  of  bread  in 
a  minute  and  drain  on  crumpled  paper. 

Meat  Turnovers 

Shape  pastry  as  described  in  the  previous  recipe  and 
substitute  cooked,  minced  and  seasoned  meat  for  the 
fruit.  Proceed  as  directed. 

General  Directions  for  Berry  Pies 

3  cupfuls  blackberries,  rasp-  i  teaspoonful  desired  spices 

berries,  huckleberries,  blue-  2  tablespoonfuls  dry  bread  or 

berries,  or  loganberries  cracker  crumbs 

From  I  to  i  cupful  sugar  Pastry 

2  tablespoonfuls   butter 

Line  a  pie  plate  with  the  pastry,  sprinkling  over  half 
the  crumbs,  dot  with  part  of  the  butter  and  spread  on 
half  the  sugar.  Then  fill  the  plate  with  the  berries,  and 
sprinkle  over  the  remaining  sugar,  spices,  and  the  crumbs 
and  dot  with  the  remaining  butter.  Put  on  the  top  crust 
and  finish  according  to  general  directions.  Cinnamon  is 
delicious  with  raspberries,  and  nutmeg  with  blueberries; 
ginger  or  nutmeg  with  huckleberries,  blueberries  and 
blackberries. 

Lemon  Meringue  Pie 

i  cupful  sugar  2  egg  yolks 

i  cupful  boiling  water  4  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice 

3  tablespoonfuls  corn  starch  Grated  rind  i  lemon 
i  teaspoonful  butter  Pastry 


638  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Mix  the  corn  starch  and  sugar ;  add  the  boiling  water, 
stirring  constantly. 

Cook  for  two  minutes*  then  add  the  butter,  the  egg 
yolks,  and  lemon  rind  and  juice.  Stir  constantly.  Bake 
the  crust  separately,  and  pour  in  the  filling  which  has  been 
cooled,  and  cover  with  a  meringue.  Bake  as  directed. 

Lemon  Sponge  Pie 

2  tablespoonfuls   flour  Rind  and  juice  i  lemon 
i  tablespoonful  butter                      2  eggs,  separated 

I  cupful  sugar  Pastry 

I  cupful  milk 

Beat  the  flour,  butter,  sugar,  egg  yolks  and  lemon 
together.  Add  the  milk,  stir  well  and,  finally,  fold  in  the 
egg  whites,  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth.  Pour  into  a  deep 
pie  plate,  lined  with  pastry,  and  bake  according  to  gen- 
eral directions. 

Pineapple  Sponge  Pie 

I 1  cupfuls  canned  shredded  i  tablespoonful  melted  but- 
pineapple  ter 

I  cupful  sugar  2  eggs,  separated 

Pastry 

Beat  the  egg  yolks  and  sugar  together,  and  add  to  the 
pineapple  with  a  grating  of  lemon  rind,  if  desired.  Fold 
in  the  egg  whites,  beaten  stiff ;  pour  into  a  plate  lined 
with  pastry,  and  bake  according  to  general  directions. 

Butterscotch  Pie 

i*  cupfuls  medium  brown  2  tablespoonfuls  granulated 

sugar  sugar 

i*  cupfuls  boiling  water  2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

3  tablespoonfuls  corn  3  eggs 

starch  Few  grains  salt         >, 

Pastry 

Caramelize  the  granulated  sugar,  add  the  boiling  water 
and  the  brown  sugar ;  thicken  this  mixture  with  the  salt 
and  corn  starch  mixed  with  a  little  cold  water.  Add  the 
butter  and  pour  this  mixture  onto  the  well-beaten  egg 
yolks.  Pour  into  a  cooked  pastry  shell ;  cover  with  a 
meringue  made  of  the  egg  whites,  and  bake  ten  minutes 
in  a  slow  oven. 


PASTRY  639 

Custard  Pie 

3  eggs  2  cupfuls  milk 

I  cupful  sugar  Grating  nutmeg 

1  teaspoonful  salt  Pastry 

Beat  togther  the  eggs  and  sugar,  salt  and  spice,  and 
then  pour  in  the  milk,  which  should  not  be  heated.  In 
the  meantime,  line  a  pie  plate  with  pastry,  pour  in  the 
custard  mixture,  grate  over  a  little  nutmeg  and  bake  ac- 
cording to  general  directions.  A  half  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla  may  be  substituted  for  the  nutmeg,  if  desired. 

Mince  Pie 

Line  a  pie  plate  with  the  pastry  as  directed,  spread 
over  the  mince  meat,  dot  it  with  butter  or  oleomargarine ; 
place  on  the  upper  crust,  and  bake  according  to  the  gen- 
eral directions. 

Cream  Fruit  Pie 

Bake  a  shell,  as  directed.  Just  before  serving  time  fill 
with  a  Cream  Filling;  top  with  finely-sliced  bananas, 
halved  and  sweetened  strawberries,  thinly-sliced  and 
sugared  peaches,  or  any  other  bland  fruit  desired.  Put 
on  a  meringue,  and  serve  plain  or  with  sweetened  and 
flavored  whipped  cream. 

Pumpkin  Pie 

2  cupfuls  steamed  sifted  i  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses 
pumpkin                                            2  tablespoon fuls  melted  but- 

\  cupful  sugar  ter  or  oleomargarine 

2  eggs,  slightly  beaten  $  teaspoonful  ginger 

i  teaspoonful  salt  I  teaspoonful   cinnamon 

li  cupfuls  milk  Pastry 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given;  line  a  plate 
with  pastry,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and  bake  according  to 
the  general  directions. 

Little  Pumpkin  Pies 

i£  cupfuls  steamed,  sifted  3  tablespoonfuls  melted  but- 

pumpkin  ter  or  oleomargarine 

£  cupful  sugar  $  teaspoonful  ginger 

3  eggs  I  teaspoonful  cinnamon 
\  teaspoonful   salt  i£  cupfuls  milk 

6  tablespoonfuls  maple  syrup          Pastry 


640  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given ;  line  little  fluted 
tins,  or  shallow  cup-cake  pans  with  the  pastry.  Pour  in 
the  mixture  and  bake  about  twenty-five  minutes  in  a  mod- 
erate oven,  or  until  the  centers  are  firm. 

Squash  Pie 

2  cupfuls  sifted  squash  i  teaspoonful  ginger 

i  cupful  sugar  3  cupfuls  scalded  milk 

i  teaspoonful  salt  2  eggs 

1  teaspoonful  cinnamon  Pastry 

Add  the  seasonings  to  the  squash,  beating  thoroughly. 
Combine  the  milk  and  the  eggs,  slightly  beaten,  add  this 
slowly  to  the  first  mixture  and  pour  into  a  deep  pie  plate 
lined  with  crust.  Bake  according  to  general  directions. 

Chocolate  Cream  Pie 

i£  cupfuls  milk  i  tablespoonfnl  corn  starch 

\  cupful  sugar  \  teaspoonful  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls  shaved  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 
chocolate  Pastry 

3  eggs 

Add  the  chocolate  to  the  milk,  and  cook  in  a  double 
boiler  till  smooth.  Beat  together  the  corn  starch,  salt, 
vanilla,  egg  yolks  and  sugar,  and  pour  into  a  deep  pie 
plate  lined  with  pastry. 

Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  till  nearly  done,  then  cover 
with  a  meringue,  made  of  the  egg  whites,  beaten  stiff 
with  3  tablespoonfuls  of  confectioner's  sugar,  and  finish 
with  ten  minutes  in  a  slow  oven. 

Cream  Pie 

Bake  a  pastry  shell.  Just  before  serving  fill  with 
Cream  Filling,  and  finish  with  a  meringue,  or  bake  a 
"  cover  "  and  set  it  over  the  cream. 

Cocoanut  Custard  Pie 

2  cupfuls  milk  I  teaspoonful  melted  butter 

3  eggs  -  4  tablespoonfuls  shredded 
I  cupful  sugar  cocoanut 

3  tablespoonfuls  powdered  £  teaspoonful  vanilla 

sugar  Pastry 

Separate  the  eggs ;  beat  the  yolks  with  the  sugar,  butter 
and  vanilla,  and  add  the  milk  and  cocoantA.  Line  a  deep 


PASTRY  641 

pie  plate  with  pastry;  pour  in  the  mixture  and  bake  as 
directed.  When  almost  done,  pile  on  the  top  a  meringue 
made  of  the  egg  whites  and  powdered  sugar,  and  bake 
ten  minutes  longer  in  a  very  slow  oven. 

Fruit  Tarts 

Bake  individual  pastry  shells  over  inverted  cup-cake 
tins.  Just  before  serving  time,  fill  them  with  sugared 
raspberries,  halved  strawberries,  or  loganberries,  or  with 
sliced  and  sugared  peaches,  sliced  and  sugared  oranges, 
mixed  with  cocoanut,  or  a  cooked  cream  filling.  Serve 
with  sweetened  whipped  cream,  if  desired.  With  the 
exception  of  the  orange  filling,  these  may  be  served  with 
a  custard. 

Orange  Fanchonettes 

i  cupful  sugar  ii  tablespoonfuls   lemon 

i  cupful  boiling  water  juice 

3  tablespoonfuls  corn  starch  Juice  and  rind  i  orange 

1  teaspoonful  butter  Pastry 

2  egg  yolks 

Mix  the  corn  starch  and  sugar,  and  add  the  boiling 
water,  stirring  constantly.  Boil  three  minutes,  add  the 
butter,  egg  yolks  and  fruit  juices.  Stir  well,  and  pour 
into  little  patty  pans  lined  with  pastry  and  bake  until 
almost  done ;  pile  on  a  meringue,  and  finish  according  to 
directions. 

Apple  Strudel 

ii  cupfuls  pastry  flour  i  pint  apples  (measured  after 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter  peeling  and  chopping) 
Milk  I  cupful  bread  crumbs 
Few  grains  salt  browned  in  fat 

i  egg  i  cupful  chopped  raisins 

i  teaspoonful   cinnamon  i  cupful  almonds 

Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  and  add  the  salt,  beat  the 
egg  well  and  put  it  in,  then  pour  in  enough  milk  to  make 
a  paste  the  consistency  of  pie  crust.  Mix  the  other  in- 
gredients thoroughly,  roll  the  paste  thin,  and  spread  this 
over  it.  Fold  it  over  and  roll  as  thin  as  possible  with- 
out breaking  the  crust ;  then  roll  up  like  a  jelly  roll,  shape 
like  the  figure  eight  and  bake  gently  forty-five  minutes  to 
an  hour,  basting  occasionally  with  a  little  melted  butter. 
Serve  sliced,  ejther  hot  or  cold,  plain  or  with  any  fruit 
pudding  sauce. 


642  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Strudel  or  German  Cheese  Cake 

I  cupful  cream  or  cottage  £  tablespoonful  lemon  juice 

cheese,  packed  in  loosely  i  teaspoonful  salt 

2!  cupfuls  milk  \  cupful  currants 

i  cupful  sugar  Pastry 
3  eggs 

Line  a  plate  with  pastry.  Mix  together  the  sugar, 
eggs,  cheese  and  seasonings,  and  add  the  milk  and  cur- 
rants. Pour  into  the  pie  plate,  and  bake  for  forty-five 
minutes,  or  until  firm,  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Cheese  Pastries 

if  cupfuls  cottage  cheese  Grated  rind  and  juice  I  lemon 

6  tablespoonfuls  sugar  3  eggs 

£  cupful  light  cream  I  cupful  currants 

i  tablespoonful  melted  but-  \  cupful  shaved  citron 

ter  Pastry 

Rub  the  chese  through  a  sieve  and  add  it  to  the  sugar, 
cream,  butter,  lemon,  the  eggs,  well-beaten,  and  the  fruit. 

Line  small,  fluted  pans  with  pastry,  fill  with  the  cheese 
mixture  and  bake  about  fifteen  minutes.  When  half- 
cooled,  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar,  and  serve  accom- 
panied by  cherry  preserves. 

Cheese  Sticks  (From  Pastry) 

Roll  any  remaining  pie  crust  thin.  Sprinkle  plenti- 
fully with  grated  cheese,  and  dust  with  paprika.  Fold, 
press  the  edges  lightly  together,  roll  out  and  add  cheese 
as  before.  Do  this  three  times,  then  cut  in  long  narrow 
strips  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Mince  Meat 

3  pints  chopped  meat  (beef  3  tablespoonfuls  ground  cin- 

heart  preferred)  namon 

6  pints  chopped  apple  i  cupful  grape  juice 

I  pound  chopped  suet  i  tablespoonful  nutmeg 

1  cupful  boiled  cider  \  pound  citron 

3  cupfuls   brown    sugar,   or  3  pounds  raisins 

2  cupfuls  brown  and  i  cup-  i  pound  currants 

ful  white  sugar  I  cupful,   chopped  candied 

1  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses  orange  peel 

2  tablespoonfuls   ground  3  lemons  and  the  grated  rind 
cloves  of  i  lemon 

3  tablespoonfuls  salt 


PASTRY  643 

Put  the  suet  through  the  food  chopper.  Pare,  core 
and  quarter  the  apples,  removing  all  the  hulls;  chop  a 
little  coarser  than  the  meat.  Add  the  other  ingredients 
(except  the  spices),  and  i|-  cupfuls  of  meat  stock.  Heat 
gradually,  stir  occasionally,  and  cook  slowly  two  hours. 
Then  add  the  spices  and  the  grape  juice. 

Lemon  Mince  Meat 

2  lemons  I  pound  currants 

6  apples,  chopped  i  pound  raisins 

£  pound  suet,  chopped  2  ounces  citron,  shredded 

ii  cupfuls  sugar 

Boil  the  lemon  peel  until  very  tender,  then  chop  fine, 
reserving  the  liquor;  add  to  the  other  ingredients  together 
with  the  lemon  juice,  moisten  with  the  liquor,  and  use  as 
any  mince  meat. 

Cream  Puffs 

i  cupful  butter  i  cupful  pastry  flour 

i  cupful  boiling  water  4  eggs 

Boil  the  water  and  butter  together  in  a  saucepan.  Add 
the  flour  all  at  once,  and  stir  until  the  mixture  leaves  the 
sides  of  the  pan.  Remove  from  the  heat,  cool  for  five 
minutes  and  stir  in  thoroughly  one  unbeaten  egg  at  a 
time.  Butter  a  baking  sheet  and  set  the  mixture  in 
rounds  about  two  inches  in  diameter,  leaving  at  least  two 
inches  between  them.  Bake  thirty  minutes  in  a  mod- 
erate oven  and,  when  cold,  split  on  the  side  and  fill  with 
whipped  cream,  which  has  been  sweetened,  and  into 
which  a  little  strong  coffee  and  a  few  drops  of  vanilla 
have  been  beaten.  Frost  the  top  of  each  with  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  coffee  icing.  Or,  fill  with  a  cooked  cream,  or 
fresh  sugared  fruit. 

Eclairs 

Make  according  to  the  preceding  Cream  Puff  recipe, 
only  shape  with  a  spoon  into  long  strips,  or  use  a  large, 
plain  pastry  tube  for  shaping.  Bake  as  cream  puffs. 
Just  before  serving  time,  split  and  fill  with  a  cooked- 
cream  filling,  cooked-coffee  filling,  or  with  crushed  and 
sweetened  fruit.  In  the  latter  case,  serve  with  whipped 
cream.  If  the  eclairs  are  to  be  iced,  spread  on  the  frost- 
ing while  they  are  still  a  little  warm. 


CHAPTER  XXVI 
THE  MAKING  OF  CANDIES 

ALL    MEASUREMENTS   ARE   LEVEL 

The  making  of  candies  at  home  is,  unfortunately,  gen- 
erally considered  such  a  task  that  it  is  seldom  done ;  per- 
haps because  most  of  the  recipes  for  home-made  candies 
are  too  complicated  and  the  results  gained  are  not  nearly 
so  palatable  as  when  the  candies  are  purchased  ready 
made.  But  when  it  is  realized  that  most  of  the  candies 
on  sale  contain  impure  and  injurious  substances,  which 
cannot  help  but  tear  down  or  harm  the  tissues  of  the 
body,  any  mother  will  count  it  worth  while  to  make  can- 
dies for  her  children,  unless  she  is  absolutely  sure  of  the 
purity  of  the  commercial  product.  Or,  better  still,  she 
will  teach  the  children  themselves  to  make  the  candies, 
giving  them  the  double  joy  of  creating  and  partaking. 

The  "  penny  candy  habit "  is  especially  to  be  con- 
demned. Although  there  are  a  few  grades  of  pure  can- 
dies on  the  market,  they  are  usually  high-priced  and 
almost  never  on  sale  at  a  penny  a  piece.  The  majority 
of  the  manufacturers  of  cheap  candies  do  not  hesitate  to 
use  any  material  to  produce  an  alluring  effect.  Shellac, 
glue,  talcum,  paraffine,  stearin,  artificial  chocolate  made 
from  iron  oxide  and  cocoa  shells,  lamp  black,  sulphurous 
acid,  coal  tar  dyes  and  the  whole  gamut  of  flavoring 
ethers  contribute  to  make  these  candies  lurid  and  tempt- 
ing to  the  child  who  is  taught  to  judge  by  appearance 
rather  than  by  substance.  For  example,  shellac  is  used 
to  coat  candies,  like  burned  peanuts  or  "Boston  baked 
beans,"  to  render  them  impervious  to  dampness  and  to 
keep  them  perpetually  fresh.  Shellac  contains  wood 
alcohol  —  a  deadly  poison  —  and  yet  such  candies  are 
constantly  being  bought  by  children. 

As  a  general  rule  a  child  that  is  properly  fed  will  not 

644 


THE  MAKING  OF  CANDIES  645 

require  excess  sweets  unless  he  is  very  active,  and  they 
may  then  be  introduced  in  the  form  of  dates,  old-fash- 
ioned molasses  candy  (made  from  Barbadoes  molasses), 
home-made,  sugared  popcorn,  maple  syrup,  or  any  of  the 
maple  syrup  candies.  If  the  child  is  allowed  the  ines- 
timable privilege  of  making  it  himself,  the  candy  will  be- 
come the  greatest  treat  possible.  Give  the  child  enough 
sweets  with  his  meals  to  balance  his  desire  in  the  form 
of  bread  and  jam,  home-made  biscuits  and  honey  or 
maple  syrup,  fresh  fruits,  and  stewed,  sun-dried  fruits. 
After  school  answer  the  clamor  for  "  a  penny  to  spend  " 
with  a  generous  slice  of  bread  and  butter  thick  with 
brown,  or  scraped  maple,  sugar,  or  a  date  and  nut  sand- 
wich—  and  keep  him  away  from  the  corner  store.  If 
a  child  is  well-nourished  and  not  taught  to  eat  candy,  he 
will  not  demand  it. 

Packing  Home-Made  Candies 

Home-made  candies,  if  to  act  as  gifts,  should  be  at- 
tractively packed.  It  is  not  always  possible  to  duplicate 
the  commercial  package  at  home,  but,  if  care  is  taken  in 
shaping  and  cutting,  the  receptacle  bears  a  touch  of  gar- 
niture which  is  appropriate  and  the  value  of  the  gift  is 
greatly  enhanced.  Decorated  boxes  may  be  obtained  in 
almost  any  size  desired,  from  five  cents  up,  while  plain 
white  ones  may  be  obtained  at  less  cost.  If  the  latter 
are  wrapped  in  pale  green  tissue  paper,  tied  with  a  gilt 
or  silver  cord,  with  a  sprig  of  holly,  or  other  green,  or 
flowers  tucked  in  the  knot,  it  will  look  attractive.  Heart- 
shaped  seals  may  hold  the  card  in  place  at  the  Valentine 
season ;  holly  seals  at  Christmas,  and  so  on,  each  season 
of  the  year  being  appropriately  indicated  by  the  wrap- 
ping. 

Occasionally  it  is  desirable  to  add  a  gift  with  the 
candies.  In  this  case  they  may  be  packed  in  tiny  splint 
baskets,  or  those  of  the  wicker  type,  shallow  ones  being 
especially  suitable  for  stuffed  fruits,  candied  orange  peel 
and  candies  of  irregular  size,  while  deeper  ones  are  better 
suited  to  regularly  shaped  sweets,  as  nut  fudge,  etc. 
Pretty  little  glass  jars  may  also  be  found  as  low  as 
twenty-five  cents.  While  alone  they  may  not  be  enough 
to  act  as  a  gift,  if  filled  with  home-made  mints,  or  winter- 


646  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

greens,  and  tied  with  a  bow  of  ribbon,  they  become  really 
attractive  gifts.  Various  china  dishes  and  glass  bowls, 
plain,  or  of  a  silver  deposit,  may  be  obtained  at  a  similar 
price,  and  filled  with  candies  of  suitable  size. 

Cretonne-covered  boxes,  which  may  be  used  later  for 
handkerchiefs  or  gloves,  are  attractive  for  this  purpose, 
while,  if  candy  is  to  be  given  to  a  child,  it  could  be  piled 
into  a  five-cent  sand  pail,  or  heaped  into  a  ten-cent 
wooden  automobile,  or  a  cart  with  a  horse  attached.  Or, 
pop-corn  balls  may  be  wrapped  in  paraffine  paper  and 
fastened  with  seals,  and  if  desired  they  may  hold  a  sur- 
prise in  the  center,  as  a  marshmallow,  a  chocolate  cream 
or  a  stuffed  date. 

Using  the  Sugar  Thermometer 

Candy  may  be  successfully  made  without  a  sugar  ther- 
mometer, but  the  use  of  the  thermometer  obviates  the 
close  watching  that  is  otherwise  necessary.  The  follow- 
ing table  explains  the  terms  used  in  candy  making,  to- 
gether with  the  degrees  on  the  thermometer: 

Thread  stage,  220  to  225  degrees  F.,  or  when  a  thread 
hangs  from  the  spoon,  when  it  is  lifted  from  the  syrup. 

Soft  Ball  stage,  238  to  240  degrees  F.,  or  when  a  soft 
ball  is  formed  when  a  little  of  the  syrup  is  dropped  in 
cold  water. 

"  Chewy  Ball  "  stage,  250  to  252  degrees  F.,  or  when  a 
fairly  hard  ball  is  formed  when  a  little  of  the  mixture  is 
tried  in  cold  water. 

Crack  Stage,  290  to  300  degrees  F.,  or  when  a  little  of 
the  mixture  rattles  against  the  cup  when  tried  in  cold 
water. 

White  Fondant 

2\  pounds  granulated  sugar,  \\  cupfuls  hot  water 

or  5  cupfuls  i  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar 

Put  the  ingredients  into  a  smooth  saucepan.  Stir  until 
dissolved,  and  heat  gradually  to  boiling  point.  Boil 
without  stirring  until,  when  tried  in  cold  water,  a  soft 
ball  may  be  formed  that  will  keep  its  shape.  The  tem- 
perature will  be  238  degrees  F.  If  the  sugar  adheres  to 
the  sides  of  the  kettle,  remove  with  a  piece  of  wet  cheese- 
cloth. Pour  slowly  onto  a  slightly-oiled  slab,  or  a  large 
platter,  oiled.  Let  it  stand  for  a  few  minutes  to  cool,  or 


THE  MAKING  OF  CANDIES  647 

until  when  pressed  with  the  finger  a  dent  is  left  on  the 
surface,  and  yet  no  crust  is  formed.  If  stirred  while  too 
hot,  it  will  grain.  If  a  crust  forms,  every  particle  must 
be  taken  off,  or  else  the  boiling  must  be  done  again. 
When  it  will  dent,  scrape  the  fondant  together  and  work 
with  a  wooden  spoon  or  spatula,  until  it  is  white  and 
creamy.  It  will  quickly  change  from  this  consistency, 
so  begin  kneading  while  it  is  still  creamy,  otherwise  it 
will  lump,  and  will  be  difficult  to  handle.  Scrape  the 
slab  and  knead  the  scrapings  separately.  Do  not  mix  the 
fondant  unless  it  is  perfectly  free  from  lumps.  Put  it 
into  a  bowl,  cover  with  oiled  paper  or  a  damp  cloth  and 
let  stand  twenty-four  hours  before  using. 

Before  using  fondant  for  dipping  it  must  be  put  over 
hot  water  and  steamed,  and  it  may  be  necessary  to  add  a 
very  little  hot  water  to  allow  for  the  evaporation  which 
will  take  place  while  the  fondant  is  being  kept  hot.  Fon- 
dant may  be  kept  an  indefinite  time,  if  closely  covered 
with  a  damp  cloth  and  then  with  a  cover. 

Quick  Fondant 

2  egg  whites  2!  cup f tils  confectioner's 

Flavoring  sugar 

Beat  the  whites  slightly,  and  add  the  sifted  sugar,  a 
little  at  a  time,  until  stiff  enough  to  knead.  Work  in 
flavoring  as  desired.  Then  cover  the  hands  and  dredge 
the  board  with  sugar,  and  form  the  candies  in  the  shapes 
desired. 

Dipping  Chocolates 

For  dipping  chocolates,  purchase  the  regular  confec- 
tioner's dipping  chocolate.  To  five  pounds  of  dipping 
chocolate  allow  one  bar  of  cocoa  butter.  This  will  make 
the  chocolate  harden  and  will  keep  it  from  being  sticky, 
or  from  discoloring.  Cut  the  chocolate  in  small  pieces, 
put  it  in  a  double  boiler  and  let  it  stand  over  hot  water 
until  melted.  Then  cool  it,  beating  frequently,  until  of 
the  consistency  of  molasses.  It  is  then  ready  for  dipping. 
If  desired,  the  chocolate  may  be  tested  with  a  ther- 
mometer. It  should  not  be  over  60  degrees,  unless  there 
is  a  very  cool  breeze  to  dry  the  candies  rapidly  so  that  the 
centers  do  not  melt  and  get  out  of  shape.  A  good  rule  to 


648  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

follow  is  this :     The  first  chocolate  must  be  entirely  dry 
as  the  seventh  is  dipped. 

Triangles  of  fruit  cake,  long,  unsalted  oyster  crackers, 
dates  stuffed  sparingly  with  peanut  butter,  all  kinds  of 
blanched  nuts,  Maraschino  cherries,  candied  cranberries, 
long  strips  of  figs,  marshmallows,  candied  cherries,  bits 
of  candied  pineapple,  orange  peel  or  grape  fruit  peel  and 
many  other  dainties  may  be  successfully  dipped  in  choco- 
late. A  wire  twisted  into  the  shape  of  a  small  spoon  is 
a  convenient  utensil  to  use  for  dipping,  but  the  hand  is 
the  quicker  method.  As  the  chocolate  is  thick,  the  little 
mark  on  top,  characteristic  of  the  commercial  chocolate, 
can  be  made  by  the  dipper  or  finger,  if  it  is  withdrawn 
quickly.  Bits  of  candied  violets,  rose  petals,  angelica,  or 
nuts  form  a  pretty  garnish.  Care  should  be  taken  not 
to  make  the  centers  large,  as  they  take  up  a  considerable 
amount  of  chocolate,  and  the  confections  will  then  be 
liable  to  look  clumsy.  All  candies  should  be  set  to  dry 
on  heavy  paraffine  paper,  the  thin  being  liable  to  stick. 
If  possible,  it  is  a  better  plan  still  to  buy  the  regulation 
paper  on  which  to  dry  the  dipped  chocolates.  This  is 
very  highly  glazed,  and  can  be  wiped  off  with  a  damp 
cloth  and  used  over  and  over  again. 

Chocolate  Creams  and  Confections 

Chocolate  creams  and  confections  have  as  a  basis  a 
fondant.  If  chocolate  creams  are  being  made,  it  is  best 
to  make  the  white  fondant,  but  for  bon-bons  and  for  the 
stuffing  of  fruit,  an  uncooked  fondant  gives  good  results. 

To  make  chocolate  creams  at  home,  first  shape  the  cen- 
ters, making  them  a  little  smaller  than  may  seem  neces- 
sary. The  fondant  may  be  divided  into  portions,  fla- 
vored and  colored  with  vegetable  coloring,  according  to 
fancy.  Cocoanut  may  be  worked  into  a  vanilla-flavored 
fondant;  peppermint  into  plain,  white  fondant;  winter- 
green  and  pink  coloring  into  white  fondant;  chopped 
almonds  and  pistachio  flavoring  into  a  portion;  violet 
coloring  and  a  drop  or  two  of  violet  perfume  into 
another;  chopped  hickory  nuts  or  English  walnuts,  to- 
gether with  a  little  vanilla  flavoring,  into  another,  while 
equal  parts  of  peanut  butter  may  be  used  with  fondant  to 
make  still  further  variety.  These  combinations  may  be 


THE  MAKING  OF  CANDIES  649 

augmented    as     fancy    dictates.     The    fondant    centers 
should  stand  a  few  hours  before  dipping  in  the  chocolate. 

Maple  Chocolate 

Combine  equal  parts  of  soft,  grated  maple  sugar  and 
fondant.  Flavor  with  vanilla  to  taste,  shape  into  small 
balls  and  dip  in  chocolate  as  directed. 

Chocolate  Marshmallows 

Cut  the  marshmallows  in  halves  and  stuff  each  one  with 
a  pecan  meat  or  a  piece  of  preserved  ginger.  Press  the 
pieces  together  and  dip  in  chocolate  as  directed. 

Fenway  Cocktails 

Drain  Maraschino  cherries  thoroughly  on  paper  towel- 
ing or  cloth.  Roll  them  in  fondant.  Let  stiffen  for  sev- 
eral hours  and  then  dip  in  melted  chocolate,  as  directed. 

Chocolate  Dipped  Strawberries 

Select  firm  strawberries.  Remove  the  stems  and  hulls 
but  do  not  wash  the  fruit,  brush  it  well  instead.  Cover 
thinly  with  fondant.  Let  sfend  until  firm,  then  dip  in 
chocolate  as  directed. 

Chocolate  Dipped  Grapes 

Select  fine  Malaga  grapes  and  stem  them.  Cover 
thinly  with  fondant,  let  stand  until  firm,  and  then  dip  in 
chocolate  as  directed. 

Christmas  Loaf 

6  cupfuls  sugar  ii  cupftils  cold  water 

i  teaspoonful  cream  of  tar- 
tar 

Make  a  fondant  of  the  above  ingredients,  divide  it 
when  done  into  three  parts,  flavoring  one  with  almond 
and  coloring  it  pale  green,  a  second  with  cinnamon, 
leaving  it  white  and  the  third  with  a  square  (ounce)  of 
melted  chocolate  and  a  little  vanilla  extract.  Only  vege- 
table colorings  should  be  used. 

Rub  an  oblong  pan  (bread  tin)  with  olive  oil  and  make 
on  the  bottom  a  design  of  holly  with  leaves  cut  from 
angelica  and  red  candies.  Gently  press  the  white  layer 


650  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

onto  this,  spreading  it  evenly,  then  press  on  the  green 
and  then  the  chocolate  layer.  Let  stand  twenty-four 
hours  to  stiffen,  unmould  and  wrap  in  paraffme  paper. 

Cut  from  the  loaf  as  desired. 

• 

Uncooked  Fudge 

7  ounces  sweet  chocolate  2  eggs 

(melted)  ii  teaspoonfuls  vanilla 

i  tablespoon ful  butter  i  cupful  chopped  walnut  or 

1  cupful  confectioner's  pecan  meats 
sugar 

Melt  together  the  butter  and  chocolate ;  stir  in  the 
confectioner's  sugar  and  the  egg  yolks  beaten,  then  the 
egg  whites  whipped  stiff.  Add  the  vanilla  and  nut 
meats.  Press  into  a  well-buttered  pan,  let  stand  until 
almost  stiff  and  cut  in  squares. 

Canoe  Club  Almonds 

2  tablespoonfuls  melted  but-  About  2  cupfuls  confection- 
ter  er's  sugar 

2  tablespoonfuls  light  cream  £  teaspoon  ful  vanilla  extract 

£  teaspoonful   almond   ex-  Whole  almonds 

tract  i  cupful  chopped  almonds 

Mix  together  the  butter,  cream  and  extracts,  then  beat 
in  confectioner's  sugar  until  the  mixture  is  stiff  enough  to 
form.  Shape  around  whole  almonds  and  roll  each  candy 
in  the  chopped  nuts.  The  latter  should  be  blanched  and 
lightly  browned  in  a  slow  oven. 

Peppermint  Drops 

2  cupfuls  granulated  sugar  i  teaspoonful  cream  of  tar- 

i  cupful  milk  or  water  tar 

2  drops  oil  of  peppermint 

Boil  together  all  the  ingredients  except  the  flavoring, 
without  stirring,  until  a  soft  ball  is  formed,  when  a  little 
is  tried  in  cold  water,  that  is  238°  F.  Cool  until  tepid, 
add  the  flavoring,  beat  until  creamy  and  drop  on  oiled 
paper  from  a  teaspoon  or  small  pitcher. 

Wintergreen  Drops 

Follow  the  preceding  directions,  substituting  winter- 
green  for  the  peppermint  and  coloring  the  mixture  pink. 


THE  MAKING  OF  CANDIES  651 

Coffee  Drops 

Use  the  same  proportions  as  for  peppermint  drops, 
substituting  J  cupful  of  strong  coffee  for  the  liquid  and 
using  a  half  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  for  flavoring. 

Plain  Caramels 

£  cupful  white  corn  syrup  £  cupful  butter 

i  cupful  granulated  sugar  i  cupful  heavy  cream 

1 4  cupfuls  brown  sugar  i  cupful  light  cream 

^  carton  of  honey,  comb  ij  teaspoonfuls   vanilla 
and  all 

Combine  the  corn  syrup,  sugar,  honey,  butter  and  light 
cream  and  bring  to  boiling  point.  Then  stir  in  the  heavy 
cream  and  cook  to  250°  F.,  or  until  a  soft,  chewy  ball  is 
formed  when  a  little  of  the  mixture  is  tried  in  cold  water. 
Stir  constantly,  then  add  the  vanilla,  pour  into  a  buttered 
pan,  making  the  mixture  a  half-inch  deep,  and,  when  stiff 
enough,  turn  out,  cut  in  squares  and  wrap  in  paraffine 
paper. 

Chocolate  Caramels  No.  1 

Make  as  above,  substituting  all  white  sugar  for  the  two 
kinds  and  adding  two  squares  (ounces)  of  chocolate. 

Chocolate  Caramels  No.  Z 

4  cupful  cold  water  4  squares    (ounces)    choco- 

£  cupful  milk  late 

t  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses          £  cupful  butter 

3  cupfuls  medium  brown  I  teaspoonful  vanilla 

sugar  I  cupful  coarse-chopped  wal- 

nut or   hickory-nut   meats. 

Boil  gently  together  all  the  ingredients  except  the  nut 
meats  (248°  F.)  until  the  mixture  hardens  to  the  con- 
sistency of  a  caramel  when  a  little  is  tried  in  cold  water. 
Flavor,  add  the  nuts,  then  pour  an  inch  deep  into  a  pan 
lined  with  waxed  paper  and,  when  half  cold,  cut  in 
squares.  Wrap  each  one  separately  in  waxed  paper  be- 
fore packing. 

Peanut  Brittle 

1  quart  peanuts,  shelled  and  i*  tablespoonfuls   butter 
chopped  Few  grains  soda 

2  cupfuls  finely  granulated  Few  grains  salt 
sugar 


652  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Butter  a  small  dripping  pan,  sprinkle  on  the  peanuts 
chopped  coarsely,  caramelize  the  sugar,  stir  in  the  butter, 
salt  and  soda  and  pour  over  the  peanuts  heated. 

Molasses  Taffy 

I  cupful  Barbadoes  molasses  Few  grains  soda 

i  cupful  sugar  Any  desired  flavoring 

1  teaspoonful  vinegar  Cocoanut  or  peanuts 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

Boil  the  molasses,  sugar  and  vinegar  together  until  it 
"  rattles  against  the  cup  "  when  tried  in  cold  water  (290° 
F.).  Add  the  flavoring  and  soda  and  pour  into  buttered 
pans  to  about  an  eighth  inch  in  thickness.  The  bottom 
of  the  pans  may  be  covered  with  shelled  peanuts,  or 
shredded  cocoanut,  if  desired.  When  nearly  cold  mark 
into  squares. 

After-Dinner  Mints 

2  cupfuls  sugar  I  teaspoonful  vinegar 

1  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar          I  teaspoonful   essence  of 
5  tablespoonfuls  boiling  peppermint 

water 

Boil  together  the  sugar,  cream  of  tartar,  water  and 
vinegar  until  brittle  when  tried  in  cold  water  (290°  F.). 
Pour  onto  a  buttered  platter  and,  as  soon  as  the  edges 
cool,  fold  towards  the  center.  When  it  can  be  handled, 
pull  like  molasses  candy,  stretching  it  into  strips  a  half- 
inch  wide.  Snip  off  half-inch  pieces  with  the  scissors, 
mixing  them  immediately  with  powdered  sugar.  Let 
stand  in  a  closely  covered  jar,  or  box,  until  firm,  about 
ten  days. 

Chocolate  Fudge 

2  cupfuls  sugar  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 
2  squares  (ounces)   choco-  Few  grains  salt 

late  &  teaspoonful  cream  of  tar- 

i  tablespoonful  butter  tar 

i  cupful  milk 

Put  all  the  ingredients,  except  the  vanilla,  together  in  a 
saucepan  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Cook 
gently,  stirring  as  little  as  possible,  until  the  mixture 
forms  a  soft  ball  when  a  little  is  tried  in  cold  water  (238° 
F.).  Then  cool  till  it  is  lukewarm  and  beat  until  creamy. 


THE  MAKING  OF  CANDIES  653 

Pour  into  a  buttered  pan  and  half  cool.     Cut  in  squares 
and  cut  as  soon  as  firm. 

Chocolate  Acorns 

Melt  chocolate  fudge  over  hot  water  and  dip  into  it 
white  Malaga  grapes,  holding  them  by  the  stems  so  that 
one-third  is  coated.  Sift  over  this  fudge  finely-ground 
English  walnuts  and  cut  off  most  of  the  stems. 

White  Cocoanut  Fudge 

2  cupfuls  sugar  $  cupful  milk 

i  tablespoonful  butter  %  cupful  shredded  cocoanut 

1  teaspoonful  vanilla  &  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar 

Boil  the  sugar,  milk,  cream  of  tartar  and  butter  to- 
gether until  it  forms  a  ball  when  tried  in  cold  water 
(238°  F.),  remove  from  the  heat  and  cool  slightly;  add 
the  vanilla  and  cocoanut  and  beat  it  till  creamy.  Pour 
into  well-butttered  pans,  mark  into  squares  and  cool. 

Fair  Fudge 

2  cupfuls  brown  sugar  2  cupfuls  sugar 
2  squares   (ounces)   choco-  I  cupful  milk 

late  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Mix  the  ingredients,  except  the  vanilla,  together  in  a 
large  pan  and  boil  without  stirring,  until  a  little  forms  a 
soft  ball  in  cold  water  (238°  F.).  Cool  until  it  can  be 
dented,  add  the  vanilla  and  beat  until  creamy. 

Ginger  Fudge 

1  tablespoonful  butter  i  cupful  preserved  ginger  cut 

2  cupfuls  sugar  in  dice 

§  cupful  milk  I  teaspoonful   ginger   syrup 

Combine  the  butter,  sugar  and  milk  and  cook  until  a 
soft  ball  is  formed  when  a  little  of  the  mixture  is  tried 
in  cold  water  (238°  F.).  Let  cool  until  tepid.  Then 
stir  in  the  ginger  and  syrup,  beat  until  creamy  and  pour 
into  a  buttered  pan.  When  nearly  cold,  cut  in  squares. 

Marshmallow  Fudge 

2  cupfuls  light  brown  sugar  i  teaspoonful  butter 

$  cupful  milk  $  teaspoonful  vanilla 

i  cupful  marshmallows  cut  i  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar 
in  quarters 


654  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Cook  the  sugar,  cream  of  tartar  and  milk  without  stir- 
ring until  a  soft  ball  is  formed  when  a  little  is  tried  in 
cold  water  (238°  F.).  Cool  slightly,  add  the  marshmal- 
lows,  butter  and  vanilla,  beat  until  creamy  and  pour  into 
a  buttered  shallow  pan  to  cool.  Cut  in  squares. 

Cocoanut  Pralines 

2  cupfuls  light  brown  sugar  |  teaspoonful  vanilla 

I  cupful  milk  I  cupful  shredded  cocoanut 

&  teaspoonful  cream  of  tar- 
tar 

Mix  the  sugar,  milk  and  cream  of  tartar  together. 
Bring  to  boiling  point,  then  cook  without  stirring  until  a 
little  forms  a  soft  ball  in  cold  water  (238°  F.).  Cool 
until  tepid,  add  the  vanilla  and  cocoanut  and  beat  until 
creamy.  Drop  in  rounds  on  oiled  paper  by  means  of  a 
teaspoon. 

Pulled  Molasses  Candy 

I  pint  Barbadoes  molasses  I  heaping  tablespoonful 
•h  pint  water  white  corn  syrup 

$  of  a  i-lb.  carton  of  honey,  i  cupful  sugar 

comb  and  all  %  tablespoonful  butter 

Combine  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given  and  stir 
until  the  butter  melts  and  the  sugar  dissolves.  Cook  to 
253°  F.  and  simmer  until  the  thermometer  registers  254° 
F.  Pour  onto  a  plate  or  marble  slab  oiled  with  butter 
and,  when  cool  enough,  pull.  If  it  sticks  to  the  hands,  use 
a  little  flour.  To  flavor,  work  in  a  few  drops  of  pepper- 
mint, wintergreen,  or  spearmint. 

To  make  this  into  bars,  cook  to  200°  F.  and  work  in  a 
little  peanut  butter  if  desired  and  confectioner's  sugar  to 
stiffen,  together  with  chopped  peanuts. 

Buttercups 

Prepare  pulled  molasses  candy,  shaping  to  a  piece  a 
fourth  inch  thick  and  putting  it  into  a  well-oiled  pan.  Put 
on  an  eighth-inch  layer  of  fondant  flavored  with  vanilla 
and  over  this  a  second  layer  of  molasses  candy.  Let  it 
stand  for  a  few  minutes,  then  snip  it  into  squares  with  the 
scissors. 


THE  MAKING  OF  CANDIES  655 

Butterscotch 

I  pound  of  butter  I  pint  of  water 

1  pound  white  corn  syrup  3  teaspoonfuls  vanilla 

2  pounds  sugar 

Boil  all  the  ingredients  together,  except  the  vanilla, 
until  the  mixture  snaps  or  "  rattles "  against  the  cup 
when  a  little  is  tried  in  cold  water,  or  when  the  candy 
thermometer  reaches  300°  F.  Then  add  the  vanilla, 
pour  into  a  shallow  pan,  and  mark  in  squares  before  it  is 
quite  cold. 

Pop-Corn  Balls 

Make  molasses  taffy  and  omit  the  cocoanut  or  peanuts. 
Stir  this  into  four  quarts  of  popped  corn,  then  shape  into 
balls. 

Maple  Pop-Corn 

3  quarts  popped  corn  i  cupful  granulated   sugar 
I  cupful  maple  syrup 

Boil  the  syrup  and  sugar  together  until  it  spins  a  long 
thread  (218°  F.).  Pour  onto  the  corn,  stir  well  and 
cool. 

Candied  Orange  Peel 

Cut  the  orange  peel  in  long,  fourth-inch  strips,  put  in  a 
saucepan,  cover  with  cold  water  and  bring  to  boiling 
point.  Repeat  this  process  three  times,  then  measure  the 
orange  peel;  add  an  equal  quantity  of  sugar  and  hot 
water  to  cover,  and  cook  until  the  white  of  the  skin  is 
translucent.  Then  drain  from  the  syrup,  roll  in  granu- 
lated sugar  and  put  on  plates  to  dry.  Use  the  syrup  in 
a  gelatine  or  fruit  cup." 

Candied  Grapefruit  Peel 

Cut  the  peel  in  long,  narrow  strips.  Put  on  to  cook  in 
cold  water,  let  boil  up  and  drain.  Repeat  four  times. 
Then  add,  by  measure,  as  much  water  and  sugar  as  peel, 
and  let  simmer  till  translucent.  Then  drain,  roll  in 
granulated  sugar  and  let  dry  over  night. 

Candied  Cranberries 

i  pint  large  cranberries  §  cupful  water 

if  ctipfuls  sugar 

Make  a  syrup  by  boiling  the  water  and  sugar  together 


656  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

for  five  minutes,  add  the  cranberries  and  let  stand  a  few 
hours.  Then  cook  them  gently  till  clear,  drain,  put  on  a 
large  enamel  dripping  pan  dusted  with  granulated  sugar, 
sprinkle  a  little  more  sugar  over  them  and  dry  very 
slowly  in  an  oven  at  about  120°  Fahrenheit. 

Candied  Kumquats 

Wash  the  kumquats  thoroughly,  then  put  them  on  in 
cold  water  and  boil  up  once.  Drain  and  repeat  three 
times.  To  a  pint  of  kumquats  add  a  cupful  of  granu- 
lated sugar  and  a  half  cupful  of  honey,  with  hot  water  to 
cover.  Simmer  very  slowly  for  two  hours  and  a  half, 
then  drain  from  the  syrup  and  dry  for  a  few  hours. 
When  they  are  still  a  little  sticky,  roll  in  granulated 
sugar.  They  will  keep  indefinitely  in  a  tightly  covered 
box. 

Candied  Ginger 

Scald  and  peel  the  ginger  root  and  cut  it  in  convenient 
pieces  for  eating.  Boil  up  three  times  in  separate 
waters,  then  measure  and  add  an  equal  quantity  of  granu- 
lated sugar  and  as  much  warm  water.  Bring  slowly  to 
boiling  point  and  simmer  gently  till  translucent  and  very 
tender.  Then  drain,  roll  in  granulated  sugar  and  spread 
on  cake  racks  or  paraffine  paper  to  dry. 

Crystallized  Apricots  or  Pineapple 

Use  canned  fruit.  Drain  well,  and  cook  for  a  few 
minutes  in  a  heavy  sugar  syrup,  made  of  I  cupful  of 
sugar  and  -J  cupful  of  water.  Then  roll  thickly  in  granu- 
lated sugar.  Lay  on  cheesecloth  "in  a  pan  and  dry  for 
several  hours  in  a  very  slow  oven,  or  on  the  radiator. 
Sprinkle  on  more  granulated  sugar  if  it  seems  neces- 
sary. 

Christmas  Joys 

i  cupful  figs  I  cupful  candied  cherries 

i  cupful  English  walnut  i  tablespoonful    lemon    juice 

meats  \  cupful  candied  orange  peel 
i  cupful  stoned  dates 

Put  the  fruits  and  nuts  through  the  food  chopper,  add 
the  lemon  juice  and  knead  until  thoroughly  mixed.  Toss 
on  a  board  well-dusted  with  powdered  sugar,  roll  out  to 
J  inch  thickness  and  cut  into  rounds  with  a  small  cutter 


THE  MAKING  OF  CANDIES  657 

When  they  have  stiffened,  frost  the  tops  with  a  plain 
orange  icing,  and  decorate  with  bits  of  angelica  and  red 
cherries  to  simulate  holly. 

Crystallized  Mint  Leaves  and  Checkerberries 
Wipe  the  mint  leaves  dry  and  boil  for  a  minute  in  a 
syrup  made  of  i  cupful  of  sugar  and  £  cupful  of  water. 
Drain  and  dry  over  night.  Then  brush  each  leaf  slightly 
with  beaten  egg  white  and  dust  with  granulated  sugar. 
Place  on  a  cake  rack  covered  with  waxed  paper  and  dry 
in  a  very  slow  oven,  or  on  a  radiator.  Checkerberries 
may  be  prepared  in  the  same  way,  if  the  preliminary  boil- 
ing is  increased  to  five  minutes. 

Glace  Nuts  and  Fruits 

2  cupfuls  sugar  3  tablespoonfuls  sugar 

i  cupful  boiling  water  Blanched  nuts  of  any  kind 

I  teaspoonful  cream  of  tar- 
tar 

Caramelize  the  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar.  Add 
the  boiling  water,  and,  when  dissolved,  the  sugar  and 
cream  of  tartar.  Boil  without  stirring  until  the  syrup 
is  absolutely  brittle  when  a  little  is  dropped  in  cold  water 
(310°  F.)  Remove  the  saucepan  from  the  heat  and 
place  in  a  vessel  of  cold  water  to  stop  the  boiling  in- 
stantly. Then  place  over  boiling  water  while  dipping. 
Halves  of  walnuts  and  pecans  or  whole  Brazil  nut  meats 
may  be  used,  or  peanuts  or  filberts  may  be  dropped  by 
the  teaspoonful  on  a  marble  slab,  or  paraffine  paper. 
The  best  utensil  to  use  in  dipping  is  a  long  sharp  hat  pin. 

Canned  pineapple,  cherries  and  apricots,  bits  of  figs, 
dates  stuffed  with  fondant,  Malaga  grapes,  strawberries 
and  sections  of  seedless  oranges  may  be  dipped.  In  case 
juicy  fruits  are  used,  they  must  not  be  pricked  while 
dipping  as  the  juice  will  spoil  the  glace. 

Old-Fashioned  Jelly  Wafers 

i£  cupfuls  cooked  sifted,  3  tablespoonfuls  granulated 

dried  apricots,  apple  pulp,  gelatine  soaked  in  i  cupful 

prunes  or  plums  cold  water 

2\  cupfuls  sugar  Flavoring 

§  cupful  water 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  for  five  minutes, 


658  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

then  add  the  fruit  pulp  and  simmer  until  thick  like 
marmalade.  Add  the  soaked  gelatine  a  little  at  a  time 
until  all  is  in,  and  let  it  boil  up  thoroughly  all  over.  It 
will  then  leave  the  spoon  in  long  strings.  Cool  the  mix- 
ture and  flavor.  If  apple  pulp  is  used,  half  may  be 
flavored  with  a  half-cupful  of  minced  mint  leaves,  or  one 
teaspoon ful  of  peppermint  essence  and  colored  pale 
green;  the  second  half  with  rose  and  colored  pink.  In 
case  apricots  are  used,  flavor  with  lemon  extract,  while 
prunes  need  orange.  Plums  may  have  a  little  orange  or 
lemon  extract  added  to  them. 

Drop  the  mixture  from  a  narrow  spoon  onto  waxed 
paper  in  small  rounds  and  let  set  over  night.  When 
quite  stiff,  press  together  in  pairs,  spread  on  waxed  paper 
and  let  dry  in  a  current  of  air  for  two  hours.  Then  roll 
in  granulated  sugar  and  dry  again.  Dp  not  use  for  two 
days. 

To  Salt  Peanuts  and  Almonds 

Use  only  raw  peanuts.  To  blanch  either  peanuts  or 
almonds,  cover  with  cold  water,  bring  to  boiling  point, 
let  stand  for  a  minute  or  two,  drain  and  husk  at  once. 
Not  more  than  half  a  pound  should  be  blanched  at  a 
time.  Dry  for  several  hours  on  paper  toweling.  Heat 
olive  oil,  or  any  of  the  pure  vegetable  cooking  fats,  to  the 
point  where  it  will  brown  a  bit  of  bread  in  forty  counts. 
Cover  the  bottom  of  a  frying  basket  with  nuts,  immerse 
them  in  the  fat  and  remove  them  before  they  are  quite 
brown  enough ;  their  own  heat  will  finish  the  coloring. 
Spread  on  brown  paper  or  paper  toweling  and  dredge 
lightly  with  very  fine  table  salt. 

Salted  Pecans 

Blanch  the  nuts  as  perfectly  as  possible  with  boiling 
water,  then  drain  and  dry.  Rub,  or  mix  lightly,  with 
slightly  beaten  egg  white,  then  toss  in  a  small  amount 
of  salt ;  spread  on  paraffine  paper  and  set  in  a  very  slow 
oven  to  dry  out. 

Roast  Salted  Walnuts 

Rinse  and  dry  the  walnut  meats,  if  bought  loose. 
Thickly  butter  a  dripping  pan,  put  in  a  generous  layer 


THE  MAKING  OF  CANDIES  659 

of  the  nuts  and  roast  slowly  till  golden  and  crisp,  stirring 
occasionally.     Then  dust  lightly  with  salt. 

Stuffed  Figs 

Select  moist  pulled  figs,  remove  the  stem  ends,  split 
open  lengthwise  and  fill  each  with  half  a  marshmallow, 
pressing  in  a  raisin  as  a  finish,  or  with  a  mixture  of 
chopped  nuts  and  raisins  and  prunes,  with  orange 
flavored  fondant,  or  chopped  orange  peel. 

Stuffed  Raisin  Clusters 

Select  fine  cluster  raisins,  split  each  raisin  with  a  sharp 
knife  and  insert  a  bit  of  candied  cherry  or  a  half 
blanched  almond  in  each.  In  finishing  a  box  of  candy 
with  such  a  cluster,  leaves  cut  from  angelica  will  add  a 
lively  note. 

Stuffed  Dates 

Remove  the  stones  from  the  dates  and  fill  with  orange- 
flavored  fondant,  English  walnuts,  almonds,  or  pecan 
nuts,  the  mixture  for  Canoe  Club  Almonds,  or  peanut 
butter.  In  case  the  latter  is  used,  roll  the  dates  in  finely 
chopped  peanuts;  otherwise  in  granulated  sugar. 

Stuffed  Prunes 

Select  large  prunes,  scrub  well  and  let  soak  for  two 
hours.  Remove  the  stones,  drain  the  prunes  well  and 
fill  the  centers  with  fondant  and  nuts,  or  fondant  and 
preserved  ginger.  Roll  in  granulated  sugar  and  let  stand 
over  night  to  ripen. 

Cocoanut  Kisses 

\  pound  shredded  cocoanut  2  cupfuls  powdered  sugar 

i  egg  white 

Beat  the  egg  white  stiff,  and  add  the  sugar  and  cocoa- 
nut  gradually.  Form  into  balls  and  bake  on  a  buttered 
cookie  sheet  in  a  slow  oven. 

Mint  Turkish  Paste 

3  tablespoonfuls  granulated  I  cupful  cold  water 

gelatine  i  tablespoonful    lemon    juice 

^  cupful  orange  juice  f  cupful  candied  cherries, 

1  cupful  minced  fresh  mint  minced 

6  drops  essence  peppermint  Green  coloring 

2  cupfuls  sugar 


66o  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Let  the  gelatine  stand  in  the  fruit  juices  until  the  liquid 
has  been  absorbed.  Stir  together  the  sugar,  water  and 
mint,  set  over  a  slow  heat  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved, 
then  add  the  gelatine  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes.  Color, 
and,  when  almost  cool,  stir  in  the  cherries  and  turn  into 
an  unoiled  bread  pan.  Let  stiffen  over  night,  then  sift 
confectioner's  sugar  thickly  over  the  paste,  loosen  at  the 
edges  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  pull  onto  a  board  dredged 
with  confectioner's  sugar.  Cut  in  cubes  and  roll  each 
in  sugar. 


CHAPTER  XXVII 
CHEESE 

ALL   MEASUREMENTS   ARE   LEVEL 

As  generally  used,  cheese  is  neither  an  inexpensive  nor 
an  especially  healthful  food.  Tagging  along  as  the  final 
course  at  dinner,  it  is  usually  a  superfluous  expense  and 
a  frequent  cause  of  indigestion. 

While  it  does  contain  certain  bacteria  that  have  the 
power  of  stimulating  the  digestive  juices,  the  artificial 
effort  ceases  before  the  cheese  itself  can  be  acted  upon  — 
the  consequent  digestive  torpor  resulting  in  flatulence 
and,  often,  severe  pain.  This  is  why  cheese,  when  served 
with  pie,  frequently  incites  a  feeling  of  heaviness  in  the 
stomach  that  is  credited  to  some  other  cause. 

Of  all  the  foods  grouped  under  the  term  "  meats  and 
meat  substitutes,"  or  proteins,  cheese  is  the  most  compact 
and  concentrated.  It  contains  no  cellulose,  no  connec- 
tive tissue  and  no  bone  to  separate  the  particles  of 
nourishment,  and  unless  it  is  combined  with,  or  accom- 
panied by,  some  coarse  grain  or  vegetable,  it  is  very  in- 
digestible, because  the  individual  in  the  effort  to  obtain 
enough  bulk  to  overcome  hunger  is  liable  to  overeat. 

This  same  concentration,  however,  makes  cheese  an 
economical  food,  because  it  contains  absolutely  no  waste, 
and  when  it  is  remembered,  for  instance,  that  one  pound 
of  ordinary  cheese  contains  approximately  all  the  casein 
(protein)  and  fat  in  a  gallon  of  milk,  its  nutritive  value 
is  indisputable.  Authorities  differ  concerning  the  food 
value  of  cheese  in  comparison  with  that  of  meat,  but 
recent  reports  show  that  two-thirds  of  a  pound  of  Amer- 
ican cheese  is  equivalent  to  a  pound  of  beef ;  and  as  a 
part  of  the  beef  is  waste,  and  as  shrinkage  in  meat 
cookery  must  be  allowed,  it  is  easily  deduced  that  cheese 
is  an  economical  as  well  as  a  nourishing  food. 

This,  however,  does  not  apply  to  all  kinds  of  cheeses, 

661 


662  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

for  their  nutritive  value  depends  partly  upon  the  method 
of  manufacture.  A  skimmed  milk  cheese,  as  Parmesan, 
for  instance,  contains  only  a  trace  of  fat,  and  cottage 
cheese  made  from  separated  milk  is  also  deficient  in  fat 
unless  cream,  or  melted  butter,  is  added  to  make  the 
dietetic  balance.  Stilton  cheese  which,  according  to 
Hutchinson,  contains  about  the  same  percentage  of  nu- 
triment as  the  American  variety,  costs  twice  as  much  per 
pound,  while  Roquefort,  Camembert,  or  Gorgonzola,  are 
expensive  and  contain  less  nourishment  than  the  cheaper 
varieties.  For  this  reason,  it  is  advisable  to  purchase 
cheese  according  to  the  purpose  for  which  it  is  to  be  used, 
remembering  that  a  low  or  moderate-priced  cheese  con- 
tains as  much  nourishment  as  the  more  costly  varieties, 
which  are  valued  for  flavor ;  and  that  a  bland  cheese, 
with  no  pronounced  flavor,  is  far  more  adaptable  to 
cookery  than  a  "  sharp  "  cheese. 

The  reason  that  cheese  is  not  generally  used  as  a  sub- 
stantial food  is  undoubtedly  due  to  lack  of  knowledge. 
A  visit  to  any  large  market  or  up-to-date  grocery  store 
will  disclose  a  number  of  varieties,  and,  unless  the  house- 
wife is  clever  enough  to  learn  their  uses  from  her  for- 
eign neighbor,  she  is  very  liable  to  pass  by  one  of  the 
most  adequate  food  supplies.  "  Full  cream,"  "  Ameri- 
can "  and  "  American  dairy "  cheese  are  one  and  the 
same  article  and  may  be  used  in  all  cases  where  general 
cheese  cookery  is  to  be  adopted.  Cheddar  may  be  used 
in  the  same  way.  Sage  cheese  is  not  suited  to  cookery 
and  can  be  served  plain  only,  or  in  a  rarebit ;  "  Sap  Sago," 
"  Romano  "  and  "  Parmesan "  cheese  are  all  of  Italian 
make  and  are  especially  desirable  for  use  with  macaroni, 
or  soups,  or  whenever  a  hard,  grated  cheese  is  to  appear. 
Parmesan  may  be  obtained  in  bottles,  grated  ready  for 
use,  although  it  must  be  utilized  within  two  or  three  weeks 
after  opening  or  it  may  become  mouldy.  Edam  and 
pineapple  cheese  should  be  served  as  salad  accompani- 
ments, cream  and  cottage  cheese  with  bread  and  butter 
or  crackers,  Swiss  cheese  with  brown  or  rye  bread  and 
butter  either  in  sandwiches  with  a  dash  of  mustard  or 
plain,  Stilton  as  a  conventional  course  at  dinner,  Lim- 
burger  with  frankfurters  and  sauerkraut,  while  Gorgon- 


CHEESE  663 

zola  and  Camembert  are  suitable  for  the  after-dinner 
savory. 

Cooked  cheese  is  far  more  wholesome  than  the  raw,  if 
prepared  at  a  moderate  heat,  but  no  food  can  be  more 
indigestible  than  cheese  subjected  to  a  high  heat.  Con- 
sisting mostly  of  casein,  which,  by  the  wa^,  is  similar 
to  the  albumin  in  eggs,  it  becomes  as  tough  and  leathery 
as  an  overcooked  egg  when  prepared  too  rapidly.  For 
this  reason  all  vegetables  or  cereals  should  be  thoroughly 
cooked  before  the  cheese  is  added  to  them.  If  an  Eng- 
lish cheese  pudding  is  to  be  baked,  for  example,  the  dish 
should  be  set  in  hot  water  and  tjpe  temperature  of  the 
water  should  not  be  allowed  to  get  above  the  simmering 
point.  When  a  rarebit  or  an  English  Monkey  is  to  be 
prepared,  it  should  stand  over  hot  water  during  the  whole 
process;  if  cheese  is  to  be  added  to  soup,  it  should  be 
after  the  boiling  is  completed. 

Although  it  may  replace  the  usual  meat  at  any  meal 
during  the  day,  it  is  more  satisfactory  to  use  cheese  at 
luncheon  or  supper,  as  the  strong  flavor  is  not  well 
adapted  to  breakfast,  and  custom  has  formed  the  meat 
habit  at  dinner.  It  is  at  first  a  little  difficult  for  the  in- 
experienced housewife  to  build  up  her  menus  with  cheese 
as  the  central  dish,  but,  if  she  keeps  constantly  in  mind 
the  dietetic  balance,  the  task  is  greatly  simplified.  As 
cheese  is  so  concentrated,  a  certain  amount  of  bulky  food 
must  be  added  to  the  meal  to  provide  ballast  enough  to 
satisfy  hunger  and  help  on  the  intestinal  action.  This  is 
usually  obtained  through  the  use  of  grains  or  cereals,  or 
vegetables.  Because  cheese  is  heavy  in  texture,  it  often 
engenders  a  feeling  of  satiety  before  sufficient  food  has 
been  eaten,  unless  "  cut "  with  a  contrasting  acid  or  fresh 
flavor.  So  whenever  it  is  introduced,  a  green  salad  or  a 
tart  fruit  in  some  form  should  make  up  a  portion  of  the 
menu.  Brown,  rye,  or  whole  wheat  meal  bread  is  a  per- 
fect combination  with  cheese,  not  only  in  the  old  nursery 
tales,  but  to-day,  when  the  whole  economic  world  is 
searching  for  the  best  in  foods,  and  it  supplies  not  only 
the  necessary  bulk,  but  the  correct  amount  of  food  con- 
stituents as  well. 

In  planning  meals  in  which  cheese  is  the  main  dish, 


664  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

it  will  inevitably  occur  to  the  housewife  that  she  is  allow- 
ing too  little.  A  fair  trial,  however,  'will  convince  her 
that  a  cheese  meal  is  sufficiently  substantial  to  satisfy 
men  in  any  walk  of  life ;  this  is  true  because  it  is  im- 
possible to  eat  of  cheese  as  of  meat,  because  it  is  so 
compact.  The  following  menus  which  are  suitable  for 
luncheon  or  supper  show  how  cheese  combinations  may 
be  made : 

I 
English  Cheese  Pudding  Brown  Bread  and  Butter 

Lettuce  and  Tomato  Salad 
Fried  Cornmeal  Mush  Maple  Syrup 

Tea 


Brown  Rice  Croquettes  Cheese    Sauce 

Bread  and  Butter  Buttered  String  Beans 

Baked  Apple  Dumplings  Lemon  Sauce 

Tea 

3 
Potato  Stew1  with  Cheese  Buttered  Toast 

Egg  Salad 

Grape  Juice  Gelatine  with  Light  Cream  Cake 

Tea 

4 

Tomato  Soup  Crisp  Crackers 

Brown  Bread  and  Butter  Sliced  Swiss  Cheese 

Celery 
Apple  Turnovers  Tea 

All  of  these  menus  are  roughly  balanced  and  have  been 
thoroughly  tested  —  the  only  difference  between  that 
served  to  a  man  at  light  work  and  the  one  at  hard  labor 
being  in  the  amount.  A  little  study  will  show  that  these 
are  frugal  meals,  inexpensive  and  easy  of  preparation. 
In  the  first  menu,  the  salad  supplies  the  freshening  touch, 
the  brown  bread  and  butter  the  bulk  and  protein  neces- 
sary to  complete  the  main  dish  (in  this  case  not  over- 
rich  in  cheese  as  it  is  really  a  bread  and  cheese  pudding), 
while  the  cornmeal  provides  extra  starch,  and  the  syrup 
the  sweet.  In  the  second  menu  the  cheese  is  combined 
with  rice  croquettes  as  a  sauce.  The  string  beans  add 
the  bulk  and  the  apple  dumplings  with  lemon  sauce  the 
enlivening  touch.  In  the  third  menu  the  cheese  is  used 


CHEESE  AND  NUT  BALLS 


MACAROON  BISQUE 


CHEESE  665 

in  a  very  different  way,  being  an  adjunct  to  the  soup, 
rather  than  the  chief  constituent  in  the  dish.  The  stew 
is,  therefore,  valuable  as  a  starchy  food,  the  egg  salad 
providing  the  protein,  and  the  tart  grape  juice  gelatine, 
the  acid  touch.  In  the  fourth  menu  uncooked  cheese 
takes  its  proper  place  and  is  used  to  supplement  an  other- 
wise deficient  meal.  The  soup  provides  the  mineral  and 
liquid,  brown  bread  and  butter  supplemented  by  thinly- 
sliced  Swiss  cheese  the  protein,  celery  the  awakening 
touch  and  the  apple  turnovers  the  needed  starch. 

To  keep  cheese  from  the  time  it  is  received  until  all 
is  used  is  a  problem.  In  order  to  forestall  mould  or 
dryness,  it  should  be  wrapped  in  a  slightly-damp  cloth, 
then  in  paper  and  kept  in  a  cool  place.  When  conven- 
ient, waxed  paper  may  replace  the  cloth.  In  no  case 
should  air  be  wholly  excluded  as  then  mould  is  liable  to 
form.  Scraps  of  cheese,  like  odds  and  ends  of  bread, 
should  be  kept  separate  from  the  main  supply  as  the 
little  pieces  afford  greater  opportunity  for  the  growth  of 
bacteria. 

When  cheese  is  to  be  cooked,  the  majority  of  recipes 
give  directions  for  grating.  This,  at  best,  is  a  slow 
process  and  not  at  all  necessary  unless  cheese  straws  or 
cheese  crackers  are  to  be  made.  If  it  must  be  done,  the 
most  convenient  grater  for  the  purpose  contains  little 
slits  which  act  like  knives  and,  by  using  it,  the  cheese 
can  be  prepared  without  grating  the  fingers.  Whenever 
cheese  is  to  be  put  into  a  savory,  or  sauce  of  any  kind, 
the  simplest  method  is  to  put  it  through  the  food  chop- 
per ;  while,  if  it  is  to  be  melted  before  adding  the  other 
ingredients  (as  in  some  methods  for  making  Welsh 
rarebit),  slicing  is  sufficient. 

Combinations  of  cheese  and  eggs  are  innumerable. 
In  baking  eggs  in  milk,  bestrew  with  grated  cheese;  to 
make  a  cheese  omelet,  spread  grated  cheese  thickly  in 
the  fold  and  serve  with  tomato  sauce;  while  eggs 
scrambled  with  cheese  is  a  delicious  southern  dish. 
Hard-cooked  eggs  may  be  sliced  and  heated  in  a  cheese 
sauce,  or  the  sauce  may  be  poured  over  toast  and 
sprinkled  with  finely-chopped  egg. 

The  old  Romans  made  wonderful  salads  of  cheese, 
lettuce,  raisins  and  honey,  with  a  dash  of  olive  oil,  and 


666  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

while  such  a  combination  is  not  tempting  to  us,  we  ap- 
proach it  in  the  service  of  cheese  with  salads.  Lettuce 
can  be  made  into  a  hearty  supper  dish,  if  dressed  with  a 
French  dressing  and  sprinkled  with  cottage  cheese,  put 
through  a  potato  ricer,  and  accompanied  with  brown 
bread  and  butter  and  rich  preserves.  If  cottage  cheese 
is  not  at  hand,  any  soft  American  cheese  will  answer  the 
purpose,  if  grated  or  chopped  fine. 

The  Service  of  Cheese 

Cheese  may  appear  in  many  ways,  but  should  not  be 
repeated  in  the  same  menu.  For  example,  if  cheese 
balls,  or  cheese  crackers,  are  served  with  the  salad, 
cheese  should  not  be  served  again  at  the  end  of  the  meal. 
A  well-planned  menu  never  repeats  flavors.  Occasion- 
ally a-  cheese  souffle  opens  or  closes  a  meal  as  a  hot  savory 
hors  d'ccuvre.  But  this  should  not  be  done  unless  the 
balance  of  the  meal  is  comparatively  light.  Cheese  is 
often  also  served  as  a  salad  accompaniment,  but  most 
often  it  appears  at  the  close  of  the  meal. 

As  cheeses  are  so  different  in  character,  care  should 
be  taken  to  choose  a  suitable  type. 

Plain  cheese  is  usually  cut  in  cubes  and  served  on  a 
doily-covered  plate,  and  may  be  accompanied  with 
crackers;  saltines  are  particularly  acceptable.  A  fork 
is  used  for  the  service.  The  tops  of  Edam,  or  pine- 
apple, cheese  are  sawed  or  cut  off  to  form  lids,  a  silver 
knob  being  inserted  for  a  handle,  if  convenient.  To 
protect  the  fingers,  the  cheese  should  be  wrapped  in  a 
folded  paper  napkin,  and  may  be  placed  on  a  fancy 
plate,  surrounded  with  crisp  crackers  and  garnished  with 
parsley.  The  cheese  should  be  loosened  before  passing. 
A  cheese  scoop  is  always  used  to  remove  it.  Roquefort 
and  Camembert  are  usually  cut  in  pie-shaped  pieces  and 
the  whole  cheese  (small)  may  be  cut  to  set  in  the  stand- 
ard of  a  cheese  dish,  the  plate  below  holding  the  crackers. 
A  broad  cheese  -knife  is  used  for  the  service.  Sweet 
Swiss  cheese  may  be  sliced  and  served  on  a  doily-covered 
plate,  although  it  is  most  appropriately  served  on  grape 
leaves ;  the  accompaniment  should  be  rye  crackers. 

Cream,  or  Neufchatel,  cheese  is  placed  either  whole 
or  sliced  on  a  handled  cheese  plate  with  a  broad  cheese 


CHEESE  667 

knife  for  the  service.  If  the  cheese  course  ends  the 
meal,  which  is  often  concluded  Continental  fashion,  with 
the  salad,  a  jar  of  Bar  le  Due  jelly,  or  strawberry  pre- 
serve, is  often  passed  with  it.  In  case  a  more  elaborate 
service  is  desired,  the  high  standard  of  the  cheese  dish 
may  be  filled  with  stuffed  prunes  and  cheese  balls  covered 
with  whipped  cream  may  be  disposed  about  the  base; 
unsweetened  crackers  should  be  passed. 


Prunes  and  Cheese  Balls 

Soak  the  prunes  for  two  hours  in  tepid  water.  Drain 
well,  remove  the  stones,  replace  with  walnut  meats  and 
roll  them  in  granulated  sugar.  To  prepare  the  balls,  mix 
a  little  salt,  sweet  cream  and  lemon  juice  with  the  cheese, 
chill  and  shape  into  balls  the  size  of  a  walnut.  Slightly 
sweeten  heavy  cream,  add  a  little  lemon  juice  and  beat 
stiff.  Roll  the  balls  in  this  and  sprinkle  with  chopped 
nuts  before  serving. 

Pastry  sticks,  pulled  bread,  or  devilled  biscuits  are 
often  used  with  cheese  instead  of  crackers,  while,  if 
celery  or  olives  are  not  served  elsewhere  during  the  meal, 
they  may  appear  with  this  course. 

Again,  cheese  sticks,  or  crackers,  spread  with  a  little 
paste  of  cream  cheese  and  pimentoes  are  sometimes 
passed  with  the  coffee  —  while  a  jar  of  home-made  club 
cheese  set  in  a  holder  and  accompanied  by  a  spoon  is 
often  passed  with  whole  wheat  crackers. 


English  Cheese  Pudding 

2  cupfuls  soft  bread  crumbs  I  teaspoonful  salt 

1  quart  milk  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

2  eggs  i  tablespoonful  butter 

^  teaspoonful  soda  2  cupfuls  chopped  cheese  (£ 

Few  grains  paprika  pound) 

Scald  the  crumbs  with  the  milk,  add  the  butter  and 
seasonings  and  combine  with  the  cheese  and  eggs,  slightly 
beaten.  Pour  into  a  buttered  baking  dish,  surround 
with  hot  water  and  bake  slowly  for  an  hour  in  a  moderate 
oven. 


668  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Cheese  Puffs 

i  cupful  cooked  brown  or  2  tablespoonfuls  flour 

uncoated  rice  f  teaspopnful  salt 

1  cupful  chopped  cheese  Few  grains  paprika 
1 4  cupfuls  milk  3  eggs 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter 

Melt  the  butter,  add  the  flour  and  seasonings,  and, 
gradually,  the  milk.  When  it  boils,  add  the  cheese,  let 
it  melt,  then  turn  in  the  rice.  Separate  the  eggs,  beat 
the  yolks  light,  add  to  the  mixture  and  fold  in  the  whites, 
stiffly  beaten.  Pour  into  a  buttered  pudding  dish  or 
ramekins,  surround  with  hot  water  and  bake  about  twen- 
ty-five minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Cheese  Sauce 

3  tablespoonfuls  butter  i  teaspoonful  paprika 

4  tablespoonfuls  flour  ij  cupfuls  milk 

i  teaspoonful  salt  i  cupful  chopped  cheese 

Melt  the  butter,  add  the  flour,  seasonings  and  milk, 
gradually,  as  in  making  white  sauce ;  set  over  hot  water, 
add  the  cheese  and  stir  till  it  is  melted. 

Cheese  Toast 

Make  the  cheese  sauce  in  the  preceding  recipe  and 
serve  on  hot  buttered  toast. 

Macaroni  Cheese  Custard 

3  cupfuls  cooked  macaroni  i  tablespoonful  melted  but- 

2\  cupfuls  milk  ter 

i£  teaspoonfuls  salt  2  eggs 

i  teaspoonful  pepper  i  cupful  chopped  cheese 

Heat  the  milk,  add  the  butter,  cheese  and  seasonings 
and  pour  onto  the  eggs,  which  should  be  slightly  beaten. 
Put  the  macaroni  in  a  baking  dish,  pour  over  the  milk 
mixture,  stand  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  and  bake  gently 
till  set,  or  firm,  in  the  middle.  This  will  take  about  thirty 
minutes. 

Baked  Cheese 

i  pound  American  cheese  Milk 

Salt  Butter 

Pepper  Mustard 

Slice  the  cheese  thin,  place  in  a  shallow  baking  dish, 


CHEESE  669 

barely  cover  with  milk,  dust  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  bit  of 
mustard,  dot  with  butter  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  until 
the  cheese  is  melted.  Serve  on  toasted  crackers; 

English  Monkey 

ii  cupfuls  stale  bread  2  eggs 

crumbs  t  teaspoonful  salt 

ij  cupfuls  milk  i  teaspoonful  paprika 

2  tablespoonfuls   butter  Toasted  crackers 

ij  cupfuls  American  cheese, 
chopped  or  diced 

Scald  the  crumbs  and  milk  together;  mix  the  remain- 
ing ingredients,  pour  over  the  crumb  mixture,  and  cook 
over  hot  water,  stirring  frequently  until  the  cheese  has 
melted,  and  the  whole  is  well-blended.  Serve  on  toasted 
crackers. 

Welsh  Rarebit  with  Milk 

2  cupfuls  cheese,  diced  or  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

put  through  the  food  chop-  *  teaspoonful  mustard 

per  Few  grains  paprika 

2  eggs  2  cupfuls  milk 

3  tablespoonfuls  flour  Hot  toast  or  heated  crackers 
i  tablespoonful  butter  or  boiled  brown  rice 

i  teaspoonful  salt 

Mix  the  ingredients  together  in  the  order  given,  and 
cook  gently  over  hot  water,  stirring  very  frequently  until 
the  mixture  is  thick  and  smooth.  Serve  very  hot  on  the 
toast  or  rice. 

Chinese  Rarebit 

i£  cupfuls  cheese,  grated  or  £  teaspoonful  mustard 

cubed  Few  grains  paprika 

1  egg  2  cupfnls  scalded  milk 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  %  cupful  cold  boiled  uncoated 

4  teaspoonful  salt  rice 

4  teaspoonful  pepper  Toasted  caraway  bread 

Mix  the  ingredients  in  the  order  given  in  a  double 
boiler  top ;  add  the  milk,  stir  over  hot  water  till  it 
thickens,  turn  in  the  rice,  re-heat  till  very  hot  and  serve 
on  the  toast. 

Tomato  Rarebit 

2  cupfuls  diced  cheese  I  teaspoonful  salt 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

i  egg  2  cupfuls  tomato  juice 

4  teaspoonful  soda  Toast  or  crackers 
i  teaspoonful  butter 


670  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Mix  together  the  cheese,  flour,  eggs,  soda,  butter,  salt 
and  pepper.  Gradually  add  the  tomato  juice  and  cook 
over  hpt  water,  stirring  constantly  till  thick;  serve  on 
the  toast  or  crackers. 

Bunny  Hug 

Prepare  the  mixture  for  Tomato  Rarebit,  season  with 
a  half-teaspoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  and  serve  on 
toast  spread  lightly  with  devilled  ham  or  chicken. 

"  Chilaly  " 

i  green  pepper,  minced  i  teaspoonful  soda 

1  teaspoonful  onion,  minced  2  cupfuls  tomato  juice 

2  tablespoonfuls  celery,  2  cupfuls  soft  cheese, 
minced  chopped 

3  tablespoonfuls   butter  \  teaspoonful  salt 

4  tablespoonfuls  flour  Paprika  to  taste 
i  egg 

Cook  the  onion,  pepper  and  celery  in  the  butter  until 
softened.  Add  the  flour  and,  gradually,  the  tomato  with 
the  soda.  Let  boil  rapidly  and  strain.  Season  and  turn 
in  the  cheese;  let  cook  over  hot  water  until  melted,  stir- 
ring constantly ;  beat  the  egg, .  combine,  let  stand  two 
minutes,  stirring  rapidly,  and  serve  on  toast  or  crackers. 

Cheese  Moulds 

i  cream  cheese  2  tablespoonfuls  chopped 

8  Maraschino   cherries,  walnut  meats 

chopped 

Mix  the  ingredients  thoroughly  together,  pat  out  to 
one-fourth  inch  thickness  and  chill.  Stamp  into  rounds 
with  a  tiny  biscuit  cutter,  garnish  each  with  a  half  wal- 
nut, a  little  minced  parsley,  or  half  a  cherry,  and  arrange 
each  on  a  crisp  cracker.  Pass  with  either  the  salad  or 
coffee. 

Cheese  Dreams 

Cut  bread  one-fourth  inch  thick  and  make  sandwiches 
with  Welsh  Rarebit  filling.  Saute  (fry)  in  butter  on  a 
griddle,  or  toast  them,  and  serve  hot. 

Toasted  Cheese 

Slice  the  cheese  thin.  Butter  entire  wheat  or  white 
bread,  lightly;  put  the  cheese  on  the  slices,  dust  it  spar- 


CHEESE  671 

ingly  with  mustard  and  a  few  grains  of  pepper,  press  the 
sandwiches  together  and  toast  slowly  to  melt  the  cheese. 
Serve  at  once. 

Rich  Cheese  Crackers 

Banquet  wafers  or  saltines  Butter 

American  cheese  Paprika 

Butter  the  crackers  out  to  the  edges ;  put  the  cheese 
through  a  food  chopper;  spread  the  crackers  in  a  flat 
pan,  sprinkle  generously  with  the  cheese,  dust  with 
paprika  and  set  in  a  moderate  oven  until  the  cheese  is 
melted  sufficiently  to  adhere  to  the  crackers. 

Cheese  and  Lima  Bean  Roll 

i£  cupfuls   cheese  put  i  tablespoonful  tomato 

through  food  chopper  catsup 

3  cupfuls  chopped  cooked  i  teaspoonful  pepper 

diced  lima  beans  i  teaspoonful  mustard 

\  teaspoonful  onion  juice  3  tablespoonfuls  melted  but- 
Dry  bread  crumbs  ter  or  bacon  fat 
i  teaspoonful  salt 

Put  the  cheese  and  beans  through  a  food  chopper; 
season  and  add  crumbs  until  thick  enough  to  form  into 
a  roll.  Place  in  a  pan,  sprinkle  buttered  crumbs  over 
the  top  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  basting  occasionally 
with  butter  and  water.  Serve  with  tomato  sauce. 

Celery  Escalloped  with  Cheese 

3  cupfuls  celery,  diced  i£  cupfuls  soft  crumbs 

I  pint  milk  Salt 

1  cupful  diced  cheese  Paprika 

Save  the  outer  stalks  of  celery  and  cut  them  into  dice. 
Cook  gently  in  three  cupfuls  of  water,  drain  and  reserve 
the  liquor  and  add  it  to  the  milk.  Put  a  layer  of  crumbs 
in  the  bottom  of  a  buttered  baking  dish.  Add  a  layer 
of  celery,  then  one  of  cheese,  season,  dot  with  butter 
and  repeat  till  the  dish  is  full.  Bake  thirty  minutes  in 
a  moderate  oven. 

Home-Made  Club  Cheese 

\  pound  American  cheese,  i  tablespoonful  melted  but- 

grated  ter 

2  eggs  \  teaspoonful  salt 

Cayenne  to  taste 


672  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients  together,  then  add  to  the 
beaten  egg  with  the  butter  and  seasonings ;  beat  it  to  a 
cream. 

Pimento  Cheese 

Prepare  the  mixture  given  in  the  preceding  recipe  for 
Home-Made  Club  Cheese,  and  add  five  pimentoes,  finely 
minced,  and  then  rub  to  a  paste. 

Dutch  or  Cottage  Cheese 

4  quarts  thick  sour  milk  Sweet  cream 

3  quarts  boiling  water  Salt 

Butter  Pepper 

Pour  the  boiling  water  into  the  milk  and  let  it  stand 
three  minutes.  Then  turn  into  a  large  bag  and  let  it 
drain  over  night.  In  this  way  the  curd  will  be  separated 
from  the  whey.  In  the  morning  to  each  pint  of  curd 
add  2  tablespoonfuls  melted  butter,  i  teaspoonful  salt, 
J  teaspoonful  of  pepper  and  a  tablespoonful  of  cream. 
Work  this  until  smooth  and  soft,  then  form  into  balls 
the  size  of  a  walnut,  chill,  pile  up,  cannon-ball  fashion, 
and  dust  with  paprika  just  before  serving. 

Moulded  Cheese  Balls 

1  cupful  Neufchatel,  cottage,         I  cupful   chopped   English 
or  cream  cheese  walnuts 

2  tablespoonfuls  cream  i  cupful  chopped,  stuffed 
Few  grains  cayenne  olives 

Cream  the  cheese  till  smooth.  Add  the  ingredients 
in  the  order  given,  chill  well,  and  shape  with  butter 
paddles. 

Roquefort  Celery  Sticks 

Wash  and  clean  the  celery,  cutting  it  in  three-inch 
sticks.  Dry  each  thoroughly,  then  fill  with  Roquefort 
cheese,  packing  it  in  smoothly.  Sprinkle  the  cheese 
lightly  with  chopped  olives.  Serve  with  salad,  or  as  an 
hors  d'oeuvre. 

Celery  and  Cream  Cheese  Sticks 

Wash  clean  celery  hearts,  and  let  stand  in  cold  salted 
water  to  become  crisp.  Mix  a  Neufchatel  cheese  with  a 
little  sweet  cream,  salt  and  pepper  till  smooth.  Dry  the 
celery  stalks  and  pack  them  with  the  cheese.  Chill  and 
serve  in  a  celery  tray,  on  a  folded  napkin. 


CHEESE 


673 


If  desired,  a  little  minced  green  pepper  or  pimento 
may  be  added  to  the  cheese. 

Neufchatel  Bon-bons 

2  Neufchatel  cheeses  2  tablespoonfuls  sweet  cream 


i  teaspoonful  salt 

i  teaspoonful  white  pepper 

Few  grains  paprika 


cupful    powdered,    salted, 
pistachio  nuts 
Salted  pecan  or  walnut  meats 


Cream  together  the  first  five  ingredients,  form  into  flat 
bon-bon  shapes,  and  press  a  salted  nut  on  each  side.  Roll 
the  edges  in  the  pistachio  nuts  and  chill. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII 
INVALID  COOKERY  AND  SERVICE 

ALL   MEASUREMENTS   ARE   LEVEL 

Few  housewives  understand  the  preparation  of  the 
simplest  dishes  in  the  invalid's  dietary  although  in  the 
majority  of  cases  of  illness  the  nursing  is  done  by  mem- 
bers of  the  household.  And  diet  plays  a  most  important 
part  in  restoring  just  as  it  does  in  maintaining  health. 
Many  a  patient  drifts  into  a  critical  stage  because  he  is 
not  supplied  with  the  proper  foods.  Even  when  only 
suffering  with  a  severe  cold  the  diet  should  be  lightened, 
as  a  hearty  meal  is  liable  to  overtax  the  digestive  organs 
to  the  point  where  they  fail  to  do  their  work.  The  un- 
digested food  remains  in  the  digestive  canal  and  fer- 
ments, the  poisons  which  are  generated  lower  the  vitality, 
and  the  patient's  condition  becomes  worse.  Much  trouble 
arises  because  the  home  nurse  does  not  know  what  to 
feed  and  how  to  prepare  it,  while  other  patients  are 
almost  starved  to  death  because  of  the  ridiculous  notion 
that  food  must  be  almost  always  withheld  during  illness. 
It  is  just  as  radical  a  mistake  to  starve  a  sick  person  as 
to  overfeed  him,  for,  even  while  confined  to  bed,  he  still 
requires  a  certain  amount  of  food  to  carry  on  the  busi- 
ness of  living.  There  are,  to  be  sure,  certain  illnesses  in 
which  food  should  be  withheld,  but  in  that  case  the 
patient  is  extremely  sick,  and  requires  the  constant  serv- 
ice of  a  physician,  who  will  prescribe  the  diet. 

In  hospitals  ordinary  diets  are  grouped  under  the  fol- 
lowing heads : 

1.  Liquid  Diet. 

2.  Light  Diet. 

3.  Convalescent  Diet. 

All  the  special  diets,  as  diabetic  and  diet  in  pneumonia, 
are  dictated  by  the  physician  for  each  individual  case. 

674 


INVALID  COOKERY  AND  SERVICE      675 

Under  liquid  diet  are  included  broths,  clear  soups, 
albumin  water,  milk,  Koumiss,  cocoa,  egg-nogs  and 
gruels  of  all  kinds.  Grape  juice,  orange  juice  and 
lemonade  may  be  added. 

Light  diet  includes  poached,  boiled  or  coddled  eggs, 
toast,  toasted  crackers,  milk  soups,  well-cooked  cereals, 
rice,  milk  toast,  cocoa  with  egg,  junket,  custards,  fruit 
and  wine  jellies,  sifted  apple  sauce  and  all  the  foods 
enumerated  under  liquid  diet. 

In  convalescent  diet  the  invalid  begins  to  approach  his 
normal  food.  Broiled  chicken,  squab,  chops  or  steak, 
scraped-beef  balls  (it  will  be  noted  that  the  meats  are 
broiled,  not  fried),  well-baked  potatoes,  scrambled  eggs 
or  omelet,  well-cooked  spinach,  peas  or  stewed  celery, 
sponge  cake  a  day  old,  baked  apples,  stewed  figs  or 
prunes,  oranges,  Malaga  grapes,  rice  or  tapioca  pudding, 
and  bread  a  day  old  may  be  added  to  the  list  for  light 
diet. 

As  a  general  rule  it  may  be  stated  that  liquid  diet  is 
used  in  fever  cases,  in  severe  gastric  disorders  (stomach 
diseases)  ;  for  two  days  after  delivery  in  maternity  cases, 
in  pneumonia,  mumps  and  cases  of  severe  intestinal  in- 
digestion. In  fever,  liver  and  pneumonia  cases  the  acid 
drinks  mentioned  in  the  list  are  often  added. 

Light  diet  is  the  first  step  up  from  the  liquid  diet  to 
solid  food  and  may  also  be  used  for  a  day  or  so  when 
the  stomach  is  upset,  in  cases  of  rheumatism,  grippe,  for 
a  few  days  in  maternity  cases,  and  in  the  diseases  of 
children,  like  the  second  stage  of  measles,  chicken  pox 
or  scarlet  fever.  It  is- also  used  in  fever  cases  for  three 
or  four  days  after  the  temperature  has  dropped  to  a 
normal  state. 

Convalescent  diet  is  usually  resumed  when  the  patient 
begins  to  be  dressed,  or,  at  least,  is  sitting  up  for  a  few 
hours  each  day;  it  is  generally  commenced  by  the  addi- 
tion of  one  extra  dish  to  light  diet,  the  variety  and  quan- 
tity being  gradually  increased  until  the  patient  is  eating 
the  usual  family  food.  When  this  occurs,  he  will  be  well. 

Any  invalid  should  be  fed  frequently  and  in  small  quan- 
tities, in  order  to  avoid  overtaxing  the  digestive  organs, 
and  yet  furnish  the  necessary  nourishment.  In  acute  dis- 
eases, for  instance,  the  patient  is  often  fed  every  two 


676  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

hours  in  very  small  quantities.  In  such  cases  the  amount 
of  liquid  is  generally  prescribed  in  ounces.  In  measuring 
such  amounts  a  graduated  glass,  with  the  ounces  and 
drachms  clearly  marked  upon  it,  will  be  of  incalculable 
assistance.  In  case  such  a  glass  is  not  at  hand,  the  num- 
ber of  ounces  may  be  measured  by  a  standard  teaspoon ; 
two  tablespoons,  or  six  teaspoons,  constituting  the  ounce. 
If  a  silver  knife  or  teaspoon  is  put  into  the  glass,  hot 
liquids  may  be  poured  into  it  without  fear  of  breakage. 
The  administering  of  liquid  diet  to  a  very  sick  patient 
from  a  teaspoon  is  usually  a  disagreeable  task  —  taxing 
the  patience  of  the  home  nurse  to  the  utmost,  and  wetting 
the  face  and  neck  of  the  patient.  A  glass  feeding  tube 
may  be  purchased  at  any  druggist's,  and,  as  it  is  made 
with  a  bend,  this  may  be  placed  between  the  patient's  lips, 
the  nurse  may  hold  the  cup  of  liquid,  and  the  patient 
drink  without  being  raised  from  the  bed,  or  feeling  the 
liquid  trickle  down  his  neck!  In  cases  where  the  patient 
is  too  exhaused  to  even  draw  the  liquid  through  the  tube, 
a  feeding  cup  may  be  used.  In  using  this,  slip  the  mouth 
of  the  cup  between  the  patient's  lips,  and  pour  in  the 
liquid  so  gradually  that  there  may  be  no  possibility  of 
choking. 

At  no  time  is  a  person  so  sensitive  to  imperfection  as 
during  sickness.  This  is  because  his  world  is  bounded 
by  the  four  walls  of  the  room,  interest  is  self-centered, 
and,  unless  all  foods  approach  perfection,  the  patient  as- 
sumes the  lack  to  be  a  personal  affront.  In  serving  hot 
milk  or  cocoa,  be  sure  that  the  scum  is  removed,  or  it 
may  "  turn  the  stomach  "  and  produce  nausea.  Lemon- 
ade, orangeade  and  egg-nogs  should  be  strained,  'and  all 
lumps  carefully  removed  from  gruels.  For  this  purpose 
a  china  strainer  will  be  invaluable.  It  should  be  large 
enough  to  fit  over  either  a  glass  or  cup ;  as  it  is  of  china 
rather  than  wire  like  the  ordinary  strainer,  and  is  used 
only  for  the  invalid,  it  may  be  kept  surgically  clean. 

The  nurse  frequently  reports  to  the  physicians  that  the 
patient  has  no  appetite.  In  many  cases  this  may  be  due 
to  the  depressing  effect  of  an  ill-kept  room,  or  to  "  a  bad 
taste  in  the  mouth,"  which  may  be  removed  by  a  mouth 
wash  of  water  containing  boracic  acid  (a  fourth  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  to  a  cupful  of  lukewarm  water)  or  to  the  gen- 


INVALID  COOKERY  AND  SERVICE      677 

eral  condition  of  the  patient.  Whatever  the  cause  it 
must  be  ascertained  and  removed.  Frequently  more  time 
and  thought  expended  upon  the  invalid's  meals  will 
remedy  this  condition.  Punctuality  in  serving  the  meals 
must  be  strictly  observed,  for  appetite  is  largely  a  result 
of  habit ;  a  meal  delayed  often  appears  after  all  desire  for 
food  has  gone. 

The  principal  meal  of  the  day  should  be  given  when  the 
patient  is  sitting  up.  In  case  the  meal  is  served  in  bed 
the  pillows  must  be  carefully  arranged  as  a  support,  and 
if  a  bed  tray  with  little  standard  legs  is  not  in  the  house- 
hold, a  pillow,  smoothed  flat,  and  placed  upon  the 
patient's  lap,  will  act  as  a  resting  place  for  the  tray. 

When  a  patient  is  very  ill,  the  nurse  is  liable  to  become 
careless,  and  instead  of  choosing  the  prettiest  cup  in  the 
house  for  broth,  and  setting  it  in  its  saucer  on  a  doily- 
covered  tray,  she  will  bring  it  in  a  cracked  kitchen  cup, 
walking  very  slowly  in  order  not  to  spill  the  contents ! 
Either  the  cup  or  the  way  it  is  presented  may  be  sufficient 
to  upset  a  nervous  patient,  and  while  it  sometimes  seems 
as  though  the  invalid  does  not  notice  any  little  defects,  it 
is  often  only  too  true  that  he  is  too  ill  to  speak  of  them 
and  that  they  jar  horribly  upon  his  taut  nerves. 

The  tray  should  be  covered  with  a  clean  tray-cloth  or 
napkin,  the  silver  placed  upon  it  in  the  most  convenient 
position  for  use,  and  all  hot  dishes  should  be  covered.  It 
is  always  a  great  pleasure  to  an  invalid  to  begin  to  do 
things  for  himself,  and  an  individual  pot  for  hot  milk  or 
cocoa,  necessitating  a  little  effort  in  pouring  it  out,  will 
often  be  the  first  step  toward  reasserting  the  self-respect 
that  is  so  much  a  part  of  health.  In  so  far  as  possible 
individual  dishes  should  be  used  in  preparing  the  in- 
valid's food,  as  it  conveys  the  idea  that  he  is  the  subject 
of  special  thought.  In  any  home  of  moderate  means 
there  is  no  necessity  for  serving  mismatched  and  cracked 
dishes  to  the  invalid.  There  is  an  old  French  proverb 
which  says  that  "  The  eye  does  half  the  eating/'  and  it  is 
more  true  in  sickness  than  under  any  other  circumstances. 

When  the  diet  becomes  convalescent,  the  patient  can 
usually  eat  one  or  two  meals  of  the  day  at  a  serving  table. 
By  this  time  the  tray  is  liable  to  become  overcrowded  if 
all  the  food  is  brought  in  at  once,  so  it  is  a  good  plan  to 


678  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

reserve  the  sweet  until  the  main  portion  of  the  meal  has 
been  eaten.  It  then  acts  as  a  surprise. 

Generally  a  patient  should  not  be  consulted  as  to  what 
he  "  wants  to  eat."  If  he  expresses  a  desire,  gratify  it, 
if  it  is  not  unreasonable,  and  in  some  cases  even  then. 
Never  serve  a  food  that  is  difficult  to  eat  (unless  during 
convalescence),  like  broiled  chicken,  without  either  break- 
ing it  up  before  bringing  it  to  the  patient,  or  else  prepar- 
ing it  for  him  after  bringing  in  the  tray,  otherwise  he  will 
become  discouraged  and  refuse  to  eat  it.  Stay  with  him 
while  eating,  or  else  delegate  some  other  member  of  the 
family  to  do  so,  as  otherwise  he  will  eat  too  fast,  and 
indigestion  will  result. 

Probably  the  most  neglected  country  diet  is  that  served 
in  maternity  cases.  The  energy  of  the  new  mother  is  at  a 
low  ebb,  for  months  her  strength  has  been  given  to  the 
new  life,  and.  after  birth,  in  normal  cases,  the  drain  is 
continued  through  the  production  of  milk.  For  the  first 
six  hours  after  labor  a  milk  diet  should  be  given,  light 
diet  should  be  served  for  the  next  three  days,  five  meals  a 
day  being  needed  to  keep  up  strength.  Convalescent  diet 
may  be  used  for  a  few  succeeding  days,  when  the  usual 
daily  fare  may  be  resumed,  with  the  exception  of 
strongly-flavored  vegetables,  like  onions,  or  cabbage,  or 
fruits  which  are  acid,  like  strawberries.  Beer  should 
never  be  taken,  as  it  has  no  action  upon  the  flow  of  milk, 
as  is  popularly  believed. 

The  following  recipes  will  prove  of  assistance  in  pre- 
paring sick  diets. 

GENERAL  RULE  FOR  GRUELS 

The  cereal,  when  possible,  should  be  cooked  in  a  double 
boiler  for  four  hours  until  it  becomes  a  jelly.  In  using, 
thin  a  little  of  the  jellied  cereal,  with  milk  or  cream,  re- 
heat, season  and  strain. 

Barley  Gruel 

2  tablespoonfuls  pearl  barley  i  teaspoonful  salt 

i  quart  boiling  water 

Add  the  barley  to  the  water,  and  boil  for  two  hours,  or 
until  it  is  reduced  one-half.  Strain,  rubbing  through  a 


INVALID  COOKERY  AND  SERVICE       679 

fine  sieve,  sweeten,  if  desired,  and  serve  hot.     A  little 
warm  milk  or  cream  may  be  added,  if  permissible. 

Oatmeal  Gruel 

1  cupful  coarse  oatmeal  or  i  pint  boiling  water 
rolled  oats                                     i  teaspoonful  salt 

Add  the  oatmeal  to  the  boiling  water,  stirring  con- 
stantly. Cook  over  the  heat  for  ten  minutes,  and  then  for 
three  hours  in  a  double  boiler.  Rub  through  a  sieve,  and 
thin  with  milk,  cream  or  water  as  desired.  Re-heat  and 
serve.  If  allowed,  J  cupful  raisins,  or  \  cupful  of  cut-up 
apple,  may  be  cooked  in  this  gruel,  adding  flavor. 

Flour  Gruel  or  Thickened  Milk 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour  4  tablespoonfuls  cold  milk 
i  teaspoonful  salt                             3  cupfuls  milk,  scalded 

Scald  the  milk.  Mix  the  flour  thoroughly  with  the  cold 
milk  and  add  it  to  the  hot  milk.  Cook  half  an  hour  in  a 
double  boiler,  stirring  occasionally.  Strain  and  serve  hot. 
This  is  often  used  for  diarrhea,  though  it  is  not  so  good 
as  a  water  gruel  for  extreme  cases. 

Cornmeal  Gruel 

i  tablespoonful  home-ground         i  cupful  cold  water 
cornmeal  i  teaspoonful  salt 

1  pint  boiling  water 

Stir  the  cornmeal  mixed  in  the  cold  water  into  the 
boiling  water.  Simmer  or  cook  in  a  double  boiler  for  an 
hour  or  longer.  Strain  and  serve.  Sugar  and  milk  may 
be  added,  if  desired,  or  it  may  be  made  wholly  of  milk, 
cooking  entirely  in  a  double  boiler. 

Beef  Broth 

2  pounds  round  of  beef  i  cupful  cold  water 
i  teaspoonful  salt 

Wipe  the  meat,  remove  the  skin  and  fat  and  cut  the 
meat  into  small  pieces.  Put  in  a  kettle  with  the  bones,  if 
there  are  any,  add  the  cold  water,  and  let  it  stand  for  half 
an  hour  to  extract  the  juices.  Heat  gradually  to  boiling 
point,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  simmer  two  hours, 
or  until  the  meat  is  tender.  Do  not  allow  it  to  boil.  Re- 


680  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

move  the  fat  and  strain  the  broth.     Re-heat  in  a  double 
boiler  and  serve  hot. 

Beef  Tea 

i  pound  fresh  beef  from  i  cupful  cold  water 

neck  Salt 

Wipe  the  meat,  remove  all  fat  and  cut  the  meat  in  small 
pieces.  Add  the  cold  water  and  let  stand  fifteen  minutes. 
Put  in  a  canning  jar,  cover  it  loosely,  place  it  on  a  trivet 
in  a  kettle  and  surround  with  cold  water.  Allow  the 
water  to  heat  slowly.  Do  not  let  it  get  above  simmering 
point.  Cook  two  hours.  Strain  and  serve. 

Beef  tea  may  be  frozen  to  the  consistency  of  a  water 
ice  and  is  excellent  in  fever  cases. 

Egg  Broth 

3  cupfuls  hot  beef  broth  J  teaspoonful  salt 

i  egg 

Beat  the  white  and  yolk  of  the  egg  separately.  Add 
the  hot  broth,  gradually,  to  the  yolk,  stirring  continually. 
Add  the  salt  and  fold  into  the  white.  Re-heat  over  hot 
water  and  serve  very  hot. 

Clam  Bouillon 

Wash  and  scrub  with  a  brush  one  quart  of  clams, 
changing  the  water  several  times.  Put  in  a  kettle  with 
I  cupful  cold  water,  cover  tightly  and  steam  until  the 
shells  are  well-opened.  Strain  the  liquor  before  serving. 

Oyster  Stew 

I  cupful   milk  Salt  and  pepper 

6  oysters  i  cupful  hot  water 

i  teaspoonful  butter 

Wash  the  oysters,  discard  the  liquor  and  steam  over 
hot  water  until  the  edges  are  curled.  Scald  the  milk,  add 
it  to  the  butter,  pour  in  the  steamed  oysters  and  liquor, 
season,  and  serve  with  hot  toasted  crackers. 

Rice  Milk  Soup 

li  tablespoon fuls  brown  rice  i  stalk  celery  or 

i  cupful  milk  I  teaspoonful  celery  seed 

I  tablespoonful    butter  i  bay  leaf 

i  teaspoonful  onion  juice  Salt  and  pepper  .to  taste 


INVALID  COOKERY  AND  SERVICE       681 

Scald  the  milk.  Add  the  rice  and  cook  in  a  double 
boiler  thirty  minutes.  Melt  the  butter,  add  the  onion 
juice,  bay  leaf  and  celery  stalk  cut  in  bits,  and  saute 
slightly.  Add  to  the  soup,  season  and  strain  through  a 
sieve.  If  too  thick,  thin  with  more  milk.  Chicken  broth 
may  be  used  in  place  of  the  milk.  In  this  case  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  cream  before  serving. 

Chicken  Broth 

Clean  a  two-  or  three-pound  chicken  and  wash  thor- 
oughly. Separate  at  the  joints,  cover  with  two  and  a  half 
quarts  of  cold  water,  bring  slowly  to  boiling  point,  a"nd 
simmer  until  the  meat  is  very  tender.  At  the  end  of  three 
hours  strain,  season  the  broth,  and  let  stand  over  night  in 
a  cold  place  to  let  the  fat  come  to  the  top.  Remove  the 
fat  and  re-heat  the  broth;  well-boiled  brown  or  uncoated 
rice  may  be  added,  if  desired. 

Whey 

i  cupful  milk  i  teaspoonful  cold  water 

i  junket  tablet 

Heat  the  milk  until  tepid  and  add  the  tablet  dissolved  in 
the  cold  water.  Let  it  set,  then  break  up  the  curd  and 
strain  through  two  thicknesses  of  cheesecloth,  being  care- 
ful to  remove  all  the  solid  portion.  Serve  cold  with  or 
without  sweetening,  and  flavor  as  desired. 

Peptonized  or  Partially  Digested  Milk 
Into  a  clean  quart  jar  put  the  contents  of  one  pepton- 
izing  tube  and  i  cupful  of  cold  water.  Shake  well,  add  a 
pint  of  fresh  cold  milk  and?shake  again.  Place  the  bottle 
in  water  at  about  115  degrees  F.,  and  keep  there  five  to 
ten  minutes,  then  place  bottle  on  ice  at  once  to  check 
further  digestion. 

Barley  Water 

I  cupful  pearl  barley  &  teaspoonful  salt 

i  pint  boiling  water  Sugar  to  taste 

3  pints  boiling  water 

Wash  the  barley  thoroughly,  add  the  pint  of  boiling 
water  and  simmer  five  minutes.  Pour  off  this  liquid  and 
add  the  salt  and  the  three  pints  of  freshly  boiling  water. 


682  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Simmer  for  two  hours.  Strain,  and  add  sugar,  if  desired. 
Cool  and  serve.  In  cases  of  constipation  add  J  pound 
figs,  cut  fine,  with  the  second  water.  Prunes  or  raisins 
can  also  be  used.  The  juice  of  half  a  lemon  is  also  a 
good  addition  after  the  drink  has  cooled. 

Lemonade 

i  lemon  I  tablespoonful  sugar  (ap- 

i  cupful  boiling  water  proximate) 

\  thin  slice  lemon 

Cut  a  thin  slice  from  the  center  of  the  lemon.  Squeeze 
the 'lemon  juice  into  a  glass  (keeping  back  seeds).  Com- 
bine the  sugar  and  boiling  water  and  place  on  ice  to  chill. 
Add  the  lemon  juice,  and  use  the  lemon  slice  as  a  gar- 
nish. More  sugar  will  be  needed  if  the  fruit 'is  very 
acid. 

Orangeade 

i  sour  orange  i  tablespoonful  sugar  (ap- 

i  cupful  boiling  water  proximate) 

i  slice  orange 

Prepare  as  for  lemonade.  If  the  orange  is  not  suffi- 
ciently sour,  add  lemon  juice.  Either  orangeade  or 
lemonade  may  be  acceptably  frozen  to  an  ice,  if  additional 
sugar  is  added. 

Oatmeal  Lemonade 

ij  tablespoonfuls    fine    oat-  Juice  i4  lemons 

meal  Sugar  to  taste 

Few  grains  salt  3  pints  boiling  water 

Mix  the  oatmeal  and  salt  with  the  cold  water.  Add  to 
the  boiling  water  and  cook  until  reduced  to  a  quart. 
Strain,  add  sugar  to  taste  while  hot,  and  the  lemon  juice 
when  cold. 

Malted  Milk  and  Egg 

i  tablespoonful  malted  milk  15  drops  acid  phosphate 

i  tablespoonful    crushed  i  tablespoonful  crushed  ice 

fresh  or  canned  fruit  §  cupful  ice  water 
i  egg 

Mix  the  malted  milk,  egg  and  fruit  and  beat  well.  Add 
the  phosphate  and  crushed  ice,  blending  thoroughly. 
Strain  and  add  the  ice  water,  or  substitute  carbonated 
water,  and  flavor  with  a  grating  of  nutmeg. 


INVALID  COOKERY  AND  SERVICE       683 

Malted  Milk  Egg-Nog 

I  tablespoonful  malted  milk  Sugar  to  taste 

1  teaspoon ful  salt  Few  grains  nutmeg 

2  tablespoonfuls  cream  I  cupful  boiling  water 
i  egg,  beaten  separately 

Mix  in  the  order  given.  Allow  the  mixture  to  cool, 
and  sweeten  to  taste.  Then  add  the  well-beaten  egg  yolk 
and  lastly  the  stiffly-beaten  white.  Serve  in  a  tall  glass. 
This  may  also  be  served  hot.  In  this  case  use  hot  water. 

Jelly  and  Ice 

Chip  ^  cupful  of  pure  ice,  fine.  Mix  about  the  same 
quantity  of  currant,  blackberry  or  raspberry  jelly  with  it. 

Milk  Albumin 
i  egg  white  \  cupful   milk 

Put  into  clean  glass  jar,  cover  and  shake  until  well- 
mixed,  about  three  minutes.  A  few  grains  of  salt  may 
be  added  if  desired. 

Albumin  Water 

1  egg  white  i  cupful  cold  water 

Proceed  as  in  above  recipe.  Sometimes  a  few  drops 
of  lemon  juice  are  added  for  fever  patients. 

Bread  and  Chicken  Custard 

2  tablespoonfuls   minced  i  egg 
cooked  chicken                                i  cupful  milk 

2  tablespoonfuls  crumbled  4  teaspoonful  salt 

bread 

Butter  two  ramekins  and  divide  in  them  the  chicken  and 
bread  mixed.  Beat  the  egg,  add  the  milk  and  salt,  pour 
over  the  chicken  mixture  and  bake  like  custard. 

Egg  Nest 

i  egg  Salt  to  taste 

J  teaspoonful  butter  i  good-sized  round  of  toast 

Toast  the  bread,  separate  the  egg,  beat  the  white  stiff 
and  add  salt  to  taste.  Butter  the  toast  and  pile  on  the 
white  in  the  shape  of  a  nest.  Make  a  depression  in  the 
center,  put  in  the  butter  and  drop  in  the  egg  yolk.  Cook 
in  a  moderate  oven  from  six  to  eight  minutes. 


684  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Scraped-Beef-Balls 

i pound  round  steak  i  toast  round 

Wipe  the  steak  with  a  damp  cloth.  Scrape  up  the  meat 
fiber  by  means  of  a  broad-bladed  case  knife.  Form  this 
pulp  into  little  balls  and  lightly  broil  in  a  heated  frying 
pan,  rolling  them  about  until  slightly  browned.  Salt,  and 
serve  on  the  toast,  buttered. 

Chops  or  Birds  Broiled  in  Paper 

Wipe  chops  or  birds,  and  dust  them  with  salt  and  pep- 
per. Spread  a  piece  of  thick  letter  paper,  evenly  and 
thickly,  with  butter.  Lay  on  it  the  meat  and  fold  the 
paper  so  that  no  juices  can  escape.  Broil  carefully,  tak- 
ing care  that  the  paper  does  not  ignite. 

A  chop  broiled  in  this  way  will  cook  in  five  minutes 
when  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick  and  in  eight  minutes 
when  one  inch  thick.  Squab  or  chicken  must  cook  thirty 
minutes. 

Potatoes  on  the  Half  Shell 

Cut  off  the  tops  of  baked  potatoes  and  scoop  out  the 
inside.  Mash  and  season  well  and  add  a  well-beaten  egg 
white.  Fill  the  skins  with  this  mixture,  heaping  it  lightly 
on  top.  Place  in  the  oven  and  brown  slightly. 

Junket 

i  cupful  fresh  milk  Few  grains  salt 

I  tablespoonful  sugar  i  teaspoonful  flavoring 

i  junket  tablet  Sugar 

i  teaspoonful  cold  water 

Heat  the  milk  until  lukewarm,  add  the  flavoring  and 
the  tablet  dissolved  in  the  cold  water.  Allow  it  to  solidify 
in  a  warm  place  without  stirring.  Chill  in  a  cool  place. 

Cocoa  Junket 

1  tablespoonful -cocoa  i  cupful  milk 

2  teaspoon fuls   sugar  1  junket  tablet 

2  tablespoonfuls  boiling  i  teaspoonful  cold  water 

water  Few  drops  vanilla 

Mix  together  the  cocoa,  sugar  and  boiling  water.  Cook 
over  the  heat  and  rub  to  a  smooth  paste.  Then  add  the 
milk  and  re-heat  until  lukewarm ;  add  the  vanilla  and  the 


A 


v    I    J^^. 


WHEEL-TRAY  SET  FOR  INVALID  LUNCHEON 


INVALID  COOKERY  AND  SERVICE      685 

tablet  dissolved  in  cold  water.     Finish  as  plain  junket  and 
serve  with  light  cream,  if  permissible. 


Caramel  Junket 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar  (car-  Few  grains  salt 
amelized)  J  teaspoonful  vanilla 

4  tablespoonfuls  hot  water  i  pint  milk 

3  tablespoonfuls   granulated  |  junket  tablet 
sugar 

Add  the  water  to  the  caramelized  sugar  and  cook  to  a 
thick  syrup.  Add  the  syrup,  sugar,  salt,  and  vanilla  to 
the  milk  and  cool  to  blood  heat.  Dissolve  the  junket 
tablet  in  cold  water,  add  to  the  tepid  mixture,  and  pour  at 
once  into  serving  dishes.  Serve  with  whipped  cream. 


Baked  Custard  (Two  Small  Custards) 

i  cupful  scalded  milk  Few  grains  salt 

1  egg  £  teaspoonful  flavoring 

2  tablespoonfuls   sugar 

» 

Scald  the  milk.  Mix  together  the  other  ingredients. 
Pour  into  these  the  scalded  milk.  Transfer  to  custard 
cups,  set  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  and  bake  until  set  in  a 
moderate  oven.  Test  with  a  knife.  If,  after  inserting, 
the  knife  is  perfectly  clean,  the  custard  is  done.  Remove 
at  once  from  the  hot  water  and  chill ;  serve  in  the  cups,  or 
turned  out  and  accompanied  with  caramel  sauce. 

Junket  Ice  Cream 

I  cupful  light  cream  £  junket  tablet 

£  cupful  milk  2  teaspoonfuls  cold  water 

3  tablespoonfuls  sugar  £  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Heat  the  milk  until  tepid.  Add  the  sugar  and  vanilla, 
and  then  the  junket  tablet  dissolved  in  the  cold  water. 
Add  the  cream  and,  when  cold,  beat  thoroughly,  turn  into 
a  freezer  and  freeze  in  three  parts  of  ice"  to  one  part  of 
salt.  Or,  use  a  baking  powder  can  instead,  by  turning  the 
can,  and  occasionally  scraping  down  the  ice,  as  it  stiffens 
and  adheres  to  the  can. 


686  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Spanish  Cream 

i  teaspponful   granulated  2i  tablespoonfuls  sugar 

gelatine  Few  grains  salt 

i  tablespoonful  cold  water  i  egg  white 

i  cupful  milk  £  teaspoonful    flavoring 
i  egg  yolk 

Soften  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water,  then  scald  with 
the  milk  in  a  double  boiler.  Beat  the  egg  yolk,  add  the 
sugar  and  salt,  and,  gradually,  the  hot  milk.  Return  to 
the  double  boiler  and  cook  until  it  coats  the  spoon,  stir- 
ring constantly.  Add  the  flavoring  and  fold  in  the  egg 
white,  beaten  stiff.  Pour  into  moulds  rubbed  lightly  with 
olive  oil  to  harden.  Serve  with  light  cream  if  con- 
venient. 

Fig  Tapioca 

i£  tablespoonfuls  pearl  or  I  4  teaspoonful  salt 

tablespoonful  quick  cook-  i  cupful  scalded  milk 

ing  tapioca  i  egg 

3  tablespoonfuls  sugar  i  cupful  chopped  figs 

Soak  the  tapioca  an  hour,  add  the  sugar  and  salt,  then 
the  hot  milk  and  cook  in  a  double  boiler  for  fifteen  min- 
utes. Add  the  beaten  egg  yolk  and  cook  three  minutes 
longer.  Stir  in  the  figs.  Make  a  meringue  of  the  egg 
white,  heap  it  on  top  and  brown  delicately  in  the  oven. 

Cream  of  Rice  Pudding 

1  cupful  brown   or   uncoated         &  teaspoonful  salt 
rice  i  pint  milk 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar 

Mix  all  the  ingredients  in  a  baking  dish.  Bake  two 
hours  in  a  very  slow  oven,  stirring  frequently  with  a  fork. 


CHAPTER  XXIX 
CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING 

ALL    MEASUREMENTS   ARE   LEVEL 

The  extent  to  which  it  pays  to  can  fruits  and  vegetables 
depends  entirely  upon  whether  or  not  they  are  home 
grown,  or  whether  they  must  be  purchased.  As  a  general 
rule  it  costs  almost,  'or  quite  as  much,  for  the  materials 
used  in  preparing  home-canned  fruits  and  vegetables  as 
it  does  to  buy  commercial  canned  goods  of  high  quality, 
and  when  the  time  and  energy  involved  are  considered, 
it  would  seem  to  be  a  mistake  to  spend  the  entire  summer 
working  in  a  hot  kitchen  when  no  economy  is  effected. 

But  if  one  lives  on  a  farm,  or  has  a  large  garden,  can- 
ning becomes  an  economic  necessity.  However,  the  old 
days  of  the  open-kettle  method  with  its  doubtful  results 
are  gone,  and  the  intermittent,  or  three-days'-canning 
method  has  also  become  a  part  of  culinary  history,  the 
wise  woman,  choosing,  rather,  the  new  cold-pack  method 
which  insures  fine,  firm,  colorful  results,  and  products 
that  will  keep,  all  with  a  minimum  expenditure  of  time 
and  energy. 

The  outfit  needed  in  carrying  on  the  new  method  of 
canning  is  as  follows :  A  good  wash  boiler  fitted  with  a 
wire  rack  made  to  contain  from  six  to  ten  jars,  according 
to  the  size  of  the  boiler,  and  equipped  with  handles  so 
that  the  jar-filled  rack  may  be  removed  without  burning 
the  hands.  This  device  is  a  real  time-saver,  as  it  obviates 
all  necessity  of  handling  each  jar  separately.  The  jars 
should  be  of  glass,  of  any  good  make,  preferably  of  the 
type  with  a  cover  that  clamps  on,  although  screw-top  jars 
may  be  used.  The  rubbers  must  be  new  and  of  the  very 
best  quality ;  there  should  be  a  steamer,  or  an  improvised 
one,  consisting  of  a  wide-topped  kettle  over  which  a 
steamer  top  may  be  fitted  to  use  in  steaming  greens  and 
other  bulky  vegetables  before  putting  them  into  the  can- 
ning  jars. 


688  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Commercial  canning  outfits  may  be  purchased  if  de- 
sired. The  hot-water-bath  outfit  is  especially  made  for 
out-door  work  and  is  equipped  with  a  fire-box  with  smoke 
pipe,  sterilizing  bath,  lifting  trays,  etc.,  is  quickly  set  up 
and  light  enough  so  that  it  may  be  easily  transported  from 
place  to  place.  If  a  very  large  amount  of  canning  is  to 
be  done,  this  outfit  will  more  than  pay  for  itself  in  the  long 
run,  but  the  results  are  no  better  than  those  obtained  by 
means  of  the  wash-boiler  equipment  already  described. 
A  second  type  of  commercial  canner  is  used,  as  a  water- 
seal  outfit  in  which  a  higher  temperature  may  be  obtained 
than  in  the  hot-water-bath  outfit  described,  and  is  par- 
ticularly good  in  the  canning  of  meats  or  certain  vege- 
tables which  are  difficult  to  keep.  Then  there  are  the 
steam-pressure  outfits  which  are  very  practical  and  may 
be  used  in  the  household  as  general  utensils.  The  first 
cost  is  a  little  high,  but,  again,  if  one  lives  on  a  farm,  or 
has  a  productive  garden,  the  cooker  will  pay  for  itself  in 
short  order  if  the  vegetables  or  fruits  are  faithfully 
canned. 

Several  new  terms  have  come  into  being  along  with  the 
new  cold-pack  method.  The  following  list  with  its  defini- 
tions is  self-explanatory: 

1.  Cold-pack.     This  means  the  packing  of  uncooked  or 
blanched  foods  together  with  some  liquid,  as  syrup,  water, 
soup  stock,  or  vegetable  juice  into  clean  jars,  covering 
and  then  sterilizing  (cooking)   them  with  their  contents 
by  means  of  boiling  water  or  steam. 

2.  Scalding.     The  dipping  of  a  vegetable  or  fruit  into 
boiling  water  to  loosen  the  skin,  so  that  it  can  be  removed 
with  the  least  possible  loss  of  pulp.     To  remove  undesir- 
able acids.     To  start  the  flow   of  the  coloring  matter, 
which  must  be  arrested  immediately  by  the  cold  dip. 

3.  Cold  Dip.     This  means  the  dipping  of  the  scalded 
fruits  or  vegetables  immediately  into  cold  water  for  two 
or  three  minutes  to  arrest  further  cooking  and  therefore 
to  harden  the  heated  pulp.     This  coagulates  the  color- 
ing matter  so  that  there  will  be  less  loss  of  color  during 
the  sterilization  period  and  at  the  same  time  the  prod- 
ucts may  be  handled  to  better  advantage  during  the  pack- 
ing. 

4.  Blanching.     This  means  to  boil,  or  steam,  the  prod- 


CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING      689 

uct  to  be  canned  for  a  brief  time  before  packing  into  the 
cans.  Unless  it  is  necessary  to  remove  a  strong  flavor,  as 
that  of  cabbage  or  dandelions,  it  is  far  better  to  blanch  the 
products  by  means  of  steam  as  there  is  then  no  loss  of 
food  value.  This  process  is  necessary  to  remove  objec- 
tionable acids  and  bitter  flavors,  and  to  reduce  the  bulk  of 
vegetables,  like  spinach,  and  to  obviate  all  necessity  for 
the  use  of  the  old-time  intermittent  process  by  which  it 
was  necessary  to  boil  the  fruit  or  vegetables  in  the  jars  for 
three  days  in  succession  to  insure  the  destruction  of  all 
germ  life. 

5.  Sterilizing,  or  Processing.  These  terms  are  used 
interchangeably  and  refer  to  the  steaming,  or  boiling,  of 
the  filled  jars  for  the  purpose  of  destroying  all  spores, 
germs  and  bacteria.  Needless  to  say,  this  is  the  most 
important  part  of  the  whole  process,  for  if  sterilization  is 
incomplete  the  canned  goods  will  not  keep. 

To  achieve  good  results  in  the  home  process  of  canning 
it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  follow  the  directions  carefully 
and  to  make  sure  that  the  products  actually  sterilize  the 
right  length  of  time.  It  is  a  very  easy  matter,  for  in- 
stance, to  prepare  half  a  dozen  jars  of  corn  and  to  leave 
them  sterilizing  in  the  kitchen  while  work  is  being  done 
in  another  part  of  the  house.  However,  the  fire  may  get 
low,  and  the  jars  actually  sterilize  by  means  of  the  boil- 
ing water  only  two  hours  instead  of  the  necessary  three. 
The  corn  would  spoil;  the  method  would  be  blamed, 
while  the  real  trouble  would  center  around  carelessness. 
When  vegetables  or  fruits  demanding  a  long  period  of 
sterilization  are  to  be  canned,  they  should  be  put  on  the 
first  thing  in  the  morning,  before  the  breakfast  dishes  are 
washed,  so  that  the  housewife  may  be  "  on  the  job  "  all 
the  time  while  doing  up  her  kitchen  work  and  preparing 
dinner.  If  a  short-time-vegetable  or  fruit,  as  asparagus, 
or  tomatoes,  or  soft  berries,  is  to  be  canned,  the  work  may 
be  accomplished  in  odd  periods,  whenever  other  short- 
time  work  is  in  progress  in  the  kitchen.  Unless  it  is 
necessary  to  can  in  large  quantities,  to  save  foods  that 
would  otherwise  spoil,  or  in  order  to  save  money  by  pur- 
chasing in  large  quantities,  canning  may  be  done  a  few 
jars  at  a  time  in  a  kettle  of  moderate  size,  equipped  with  a 
round  wire  rack  to  hold  the  jars.  If  two  or  three  jars  of 


690  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

each  fruit  and  an  equal  number  of  suitable  vegetables  are 
canned  as  they  come  in  season,  the  housewife  with  a  small 
family  will  find  that  during  the  period  from  May  through 
October  she  will  have  accumulated  a  wide  range  of  foods 
at  comparatively  little  cost  and  labor.  The  collection 
should  begin  with  rhubarb,  going  through  the  whole 
gamut  of  fruits  and  berries  and  continuing  through 
quinces  and  citrons.  The  vegetables  may  begin  with  as- 
paragus and  continue  through  sweet  potatoes  and  pump- 
kin. 

Whatever  the  vegetable  or  fruit  the  general  processes 
of  preparation  and  sterilization  are  the  same. 

1.  Scald  or  blanch  the  food  according  to  the  length  of 
time  noted  in  the  table. 

2.  Dip  in  cold  water. 

3.  Remove  the  skins,  if  necessary,  any  cores,  blossom 
ends,  stems  or  stones,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  food 
to  be  canned. 

4.  Pack  into  wide-mouth  jars  as  closely  as  possible. 

5.  Fill  the  jars  almost  full  with  the  desired  liquid  and 
add  salt  according  to  directions,  if  needed. 

6.  Adjust  the  rubber  and  top  and  partially  clamp  it  on, 
or  if  a  mason  jar  is  being  used,  screw  the  top  down  until 
it  touches  the  rubber,  but  do  not  close  the  jar,  as  other- 
wise the  expanded  air  cannot  escape. 

7.  Cover  with  water,  two  inches  over  the  tops,  bring 
to  boiling  point  and  boil,  or  sterilize,  the  required  length 
of  time. 

8.  Remove,  the  jars,  tighten  the  covers  and  turn  them 
upside  down  on  a  cloth  away  from  a  draft,  covering  them 
with  a  cloth  so  that  a  sudden  breeze  will  not  cause  the 
jars  to  crack. 

9.  After  a  few  days,  loosen  the  clamps  and  pick  up  the 
jars  by  the  covers.     If  sterilization  has  been  complete, 
the  covers  will  not  come  off.     Clamp  again  and  put  the 
jars  away,  after,  wrapping  them  in  paper  to  assist  in  pre- 
serving the  color. 

SPECIAL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  CANNING 
VEGETABLES 

Allow  a  level  teaspoonful  each  of  salt  and  sugar  to 
each  quart  of  boiling  water  -used  in  canning  the  vege- 


CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING      691 

tables.  Substitute  the  juice  obtained  by  boiling  tomatoes 
for  water  in  canning  tomatoes.  Use  absolutely  fresh 
vegetables.  This  is  especially  true  for  corn  and  peas. 
Scrub  all  root  and  tuber  vegetables  as  carrots,  sweet  pota- 
toes and  the  like,  thoroughly  with  a  vegetable  brush, 
then  scald  in  boiling  water  to  remove  the  skins.  In  can- 
ning corn  on  the  cob  remove  the  husks  and  silk  and 
blanch  the  corn  on  the  cob  eight  minutes  for  medium- 
sized  ears,  five  for  smaller  ears  and  longer  for  the  larger 
ears.  Re-steam  it  when  taken  from  the  can  for  serving, 
rather  than  boiling  it  a  second  time.  In  preparing  corn, 
(cut  from  the  cob)  blanch  it  on,  then  remove  the  kernels 
with  a  sharp  knife.  String  be'ans  before  blanching. 
Clean  greens  thoroughly ;  then  steam.  In  canning  pump- 
kin and  squash  for  pie  fillings,  steam  until  tender,  then 
mash,  add  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  to 
each  quart  of  pulp,  then  sterilize  as  directed.  All  vege- 
tables and  fruits  should  be  graded  according  to  size  so 
that  the  various  pieces  will  cook  through  in  the  same 
time.  This  adds  greatly  to  the  appearance  of  the  fin- 
ished jar  as  well. 

Canning  powders  should  never  be  used.  They  contain 
boric,  or  salicylic,  acid,  which  are  drugs  and  have  no 
place  in  foods.  At  the  same  time  their  use  is  absolutely 
unnecessary  if  care  is  used  in  canning  and  they  are  an 
additional  expense.  Finally,  most  of  them  contain  in- 
gredients which  are  prohibited,  or  forbidden  in  many 
States  and  by  the  National  Government. 

If  desired,  special  seasonings  may  be  added  to  the  jars 
of  vegetables,  along  with  the  salted  water;  for  instance, 
pickled  young  carrots  are  delicious.  In  this  case  a  half 
cupful  of  vinegar,  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  whole  pickle  spice  could  be  added  to  each 
pint  jar  of  carrots.  Pickled  beets  may  be  made  in  the 
same  way.  All  kinds  of  greens  may  be  canned,  accord- 
ing to  the  time  table  given  below ;  these  include  the  edible 
wild  greens  as  well,  such  as  milkweed,  sour  dock,  purs- 
lane, etc.  In  canning  greens,  cabbage  or  Brussels  sprouts, 
it  is  a  good  plan  to  season  them  by  putting  into  the  center 
of  each  jar  a  thin  slice  of  fat  bacon,  salt  pork,  a  little 
minced  raw  ham,  dried  beef,  or  olive  oil. 


692 


MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 


TIME  TABLE  FOR  BLANCHING  AND  STERILIZING  VEGETABLES 


VEGETABLES 


Blanch- 
ing 

Minutes 


Hot 

Water 

Bath 

Outfit 

Minutes 


Water 

Seal 

Outfit 

Minutes 


Pressure 
Cooker 
(5  Ibs. 
steam) 

Minutes 


Asparagus  5  to  10  60  60  40 

Peas  8  120  go  60 

String  beans  8  120  90  60 

Young  limas 8  120  90  60 

Corn  15  180  90  60 

All  greens,  as  spinach, 

chard,  dandelions,  etc..  ^o  to  15  90  60  40 

Green  peppers  5  180  90  60 

Okra  5  120  90  60 

Squash  and  pumpkin  ...  5  60  50  40 

Cabbage  20  90  60  50 

Beets  7  90  75  60 

Carrots  7  90  75  60 

Tomatoes 2  22  20  10 

Sweet  potatoes,  parsnips, 

turnips  5  90  70  60 

Egg  plant 5  60  50  45 

Brussels  sprouts  and 

cauliflower  15  90  60  50 

Succotash  15  180  90  60 

Mushrooms  5  90  60  50 

Rhubarb  2  20  20  15 


SPECIAL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  CANNING 
FRUITS 

Fruits  may  be  canned  with,  or  without  sugar,  but  it  is 
a  saving  of  both  time  and  fuel  if  a  syrup  composed  of  the 
proper  proportions  of  sugar  is  used  to  fill  up  the  can, 
rather  than  plain  water.  However,  if  sugar  is  prohibi- 
tive in  price  and  fruit  must  be  canned,  it  may  be  done  by 
the  plain  water  process.  In  this  case  the  unsweetened 
fruit  should  be  drained  from  the  juice  before  serving, 
the  right  quantity  of  sugar  added  to  the  juice  and  the 
whole  boiled  together  for  a  few  minutes,  the  fruit  being 
added  in  time  so  that  it  may  be  thoroughly  sweetened. 
By  this  method,  however,  the  fruit  is  always  over-cooked 
by  the  second  heating  and  the  fruit  loses  brilliancy  both 
of  flavor  and  color. 

Syrups  of  different  densities  are  used  in  the  canning 


CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING       693 

of  fruits,  the  choice  depending  on  the  tartness  of  the 
fruit  and  the  richness  of  the  result  desired.  The  follow- 
ing table  gives  the  amounts  of  sugar  and  water  needed  in 
preparing  syrups  of  different  percentages ;  the  syrups 
will  hereafter  be  designated  in  this  chapter  by  the  den- 
sity, or  percentage. 

Sugar  Water  Percent. 

I  pound    3    quarts 16 

i  pound,   four  ounces    ...3    quarts 20 

1  pound,  nine  ounces  3    quarts 25 

2  pounds,   eight  ounces 4    quarts 30 

1  pound     ii  quarts 32 

2  pounds,  eight  ounces 3    quarts 40 


GENERAL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  CANNING 
FRUITS 

The  general  directions  for  canning  fruits  have  already 
been  given.  The  steps  in  the  process  are  the  same  as  in 
the  canning  of  vegetables  except  that  it  is  not  always 
necessary  to  blanch  the  fruit.  The  same  principles  are 
applied;  however,  there  are  a  few  additional  points  that 
should  be  especially  noted.  The  fruit  should  be  fresh, 
firm,  but  ripe,  entirely  free  from  all  leaves  and  stems, 
and  from  rot,  blemish  or  mould.  If  gritty,  as  with 
strawberries,  it  should  be  thoroughly  cleaned. 

The  skins  should  be  removed  from  peaches,  apricots, 
pears,  oranges,  apples  and  quinces  by  blanching. 
Soft  fruits  which  are  of  a  sweet  nature,  like  straw- 
berries, raspberries,  loganberries,  huckleberries,  or  blue- 
berries, figs  and  wild  and  Damson  plums,  as  well  as 
grapes,  need  no  blanching ;  but  sour  berry  fruits,  as  cur- 
rants, gooseberries,  cranberries  and  sour  cherries  are  bet- 
ter if  quickly  blanched.  Pineapple  and  citron  need 
longer  blanching  because  they  are  harder.  It  is  not 
necessary  to  fill  the  can  to  overflowing  with  boiling  water 
or  syrup,  whichever  is  to  be  used ;  it  is  enough  to  fill  it 
within  a  fourth  of  an  inch  of  the  top. 

In  every  case  where  the  skin,  cores,  or  seeds  are  to  be 
removed  the  blanching  and  cold-dip  should  take  place 
before  it  is  done,  as  otherwise  there  is  liable  to  be  con- 
siderable loss  of  flavor.  The  stones  should  be  removed 


694 


MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 


from  peaches  and  apricots  and  the  fruit  canned  in  halves. 
If  desired,  one  peach  stone  may  be  allowed  to  a  jar  to 
enhance  the  flavor.  Pineapple  should  be  pared,  the  eyes 
removed  and  the  pineapple  cut  in  convenient  pieces  be- 
fore blanching.  Citron,  cantaloupe  and  oranges  should 
also  be  pared  before  blanching. 

TIME  TABLE  FOR  BLANCHING  AND  STERILIZING 
FRUITS 


Strawberries  

35 

16 

IO 

8 

Raspberries    

35 

16 

IO 

8 

Blackberries   

16 

IO 

8 

Loganberries    

35 

16 

10 

8 

Sweet  cherries  

35 

16 

10 

8 

Blueberries  and 

huckleberries    .  .  . 

30 

20 

15 

10 

Grapes    

2O 

is 

Wild  grapes  

35 

20 

15 

12 

Wild    and    Damson 

Plums     

30 

16 

12 

12 

Oranges    (sliced) 

18 

10 

6 

5 

Oranges  (blanched)  .      ilm 

20 

12 

8 

6 

Currants    i 

30 

16 

12 

12 

Gooseberries    i 

16 

12 

10 

Sour  cherries  i 

35 

16 

12 

10 

Cranberries     I 

35 

16 

12 

10 

Peaches    .:  2 

30 

16 

IO 

8 

Apricots     2 

30 

16 

10 

8 

Pineapple    5 

35 

25 

25 

Figs    6 

25 

40 

25 

Pears    ii 

25 

20 

12 

8 

Apples    ii 

25 

20 

12 

8 

Quinces    ii 

25 

20 

12 

8 

Citron    10 

25 

35 

25 

25 

Cantaloupe    '.  .   10 

35 

25 

25 

The  syrups  indicated  in  the  table  are  of  the  sweetness 
used  by  the  best  commercial  canners.  If  desired,  richer 
syrups  may  be  used,  but  if  this  is  done  there  is  danger  of 
introducing  too  much  sugar  into  the  dietary. 

In  so  far  as  possible  it  is  better  to  prepare,  blanch  and 
pack  one  or  two  jars  of  a  product  at  a  time.  This  is 


CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING       695 

especially  true  of  corn,  peas,  beans  and  asparagus.  Care 
should  be  taken  that  unbroken  vegetables  and  fruit  be 
packed  into  jars,  if  appearances  are  to  be  considered. 

Mold  may  develop  if  the  seal  is  defective  or  if  the  jar 
tops  are  removed  to  slip  the  rubbers  back  into  position. 
If  this  is  done,  the  jars  must  be  re-sterilized  for  five  min- 
utes. Mold  may  also  appear  if  jars  are  kept  in  a  damp 
place  where  the  rubbers  may  decompose.  The  best 
water  for  canning  purposes  is  pure,  soft  and  free  from 
excessive  quantities  of  mineral  matter.  If  any  difficulty 
is  experienced  through  the  water,  consult  with  the  office 
of  Home  Economics  States  Relation  Service.  Washing- 
ton, D.  C. 

In  canning  either  fruits  or  vegetables  the  altitude 
makes  a  difference,  the  higher  the  altitude  the  lower  the 
degree  of  heat  needed  to  boil  water.  These  directions 
are  based  upon  an  altitude  of  five  hundred  feet.  For 
every  four  thousand  feet  increase  there  should  be  an 
addition  of  twenty  per  cent,  to  the  time  required  for  can- 
ning the  different  foods. 

SPECIAL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  CANNING  SOUPS 

Meat  scraps,  bones,  ligaments  and  odds  and  ends  of 
vegetables  and  cereals  may  be  made  into  excellent  soups 
and  canned  for  later  usage.  This  is  thoroughly  practi- 
cal and  is  one  of  the  best  ways  in  which  thrift  can  be 
exploited.  The  soup  must  first  be  made,  packed  hot  in 
glass  jars,  or  bottles,  partially  sealed  as  is  directed  in 
the  previous  part  of  the  chapter  and  sterilized  the  proper 
length  of  time.  Cream  soups  cannot  be  canned,  but  the 
sifted  vegetable  pulp,  or  puree,  properly  seasoned,  which 
acts  as  a  foundation  for  the  cream  soup  may  be  canned 
and  used  as  needed  with  twice  the  quantity  of  milk,  or 
with  equal  parts  of  milk,  and  chicken  or  veal  stock 
(white  stock). 

CANNED  STOCK  SOUPS 

The  amount  of  time  needed  in  making  soup  stock  is 
the  same  for  a  large  quantity  as  for  a  quart  or  two.  It 
is  an  economy  of  both  time  and  fuel  to  prepare  a  large 
quantity  at  a  time  and  can  it  ready  for  use  whenever 


696  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

needed.  The  recipes  given  for  the  making  of  soup 
stock,  bouillon  and  consomme,  in  the  chapter  on  Soups, 
may  be  used  for  canned  soups.  The  time  of  sterilization 
is  forty  minutes  for  the  hot-water-bath  outfit,  thirty 
minutes  with  the  water-seal  outfit  and  twenty-five  min- 
utes with  the  steam-pressure  outfit. 

VEGETABLE  STOCK  SOUPS 

Vegetable  stock  soups,  as  julienne,  and  soups  with  any 
kind  of  cereal  thickening,  as  rice,  barley,  or  tapioca,  may 
also  be  canned.  For  the  desired  recipes  see  the  chapter 
on  Soups.  Sterilize  soups  of  this  type  ninety  minutes  in 
the  hot-water-bath  outfit,  and  seventy-five  minutes  in  the 
water  seal,  or  five-pound  steam-pressure  outfit. 

PUREES  OF  DRIED  VEGETABLES 

Soups  of  this  type  may  be  made  of  split  peas,  cow 
peas,  yellow-eyed  beans,  black  beans,  kidney  beans,  navy 
beans,  lima  beans.  The  pulp  must  first  be  prepared  and 
is  then  combined  with  the  soup-stock  and  sterilized  ninety 
minutes  with  the  hot-water-bath  outfit,  eighty  minutes 
with  the  water  seal  and  seventy  minutes  with  the  steam- 
pressure  outfit. 


GENERAL  PROPORTIONS  OF  DRIED 
VEGETABLES  TO  STOCK 

DRIED  PEA  SOUP 

Eight  pounds  of  dried  peas  soaked  over  night,  cooked 
until  soft,  sifted  and  added  to  five  and  a  half  gallons  of 
soup  stock,  thickened  with  two  cupfuls  of  flour,  mixed 
with  additional  stock  to  a  smooth  paste,  salted  and  sweet- 
ened to  taste,  and  brought  to  a  boil ;  fill  into  cans  and 
sterilize.  Any  kind  of  peas  may  be  used  and  the  sea- 
soning may  be  varied  with  onion,  mint,  bay  leaves  or 
celery  tips,  added  "to  the  stock  when  it  is  put  on  to  heat. 

DRIED  BEAN  SOUP 

Three  pounds  of  dried  beans  soaked  over  night  in  cold 
water  and  cooked  soft  with  3  pounds  hock  of  harn  and 
4  gallons  of  water.  When  the  beans  are  soft,  strain 


CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING       697 

them  from  the  stock  and  sift  them.  Shred  the  ham,  or 
put  it  through  a  food  chopper,  and  return  it  to  the  liquor. 
Thicken  with  a  cupful  of  flour,  rubbed  smooth  with  a 
little  stock,  fill  into  jars  and  sterilize.  A  few  onions,  or 
a  little  tomato  pulp  may  be  added  to  this  soup  when  the 
beans  are  put  on  to  boil. 

CANNED  VEGETABLE  PULP 

Tomatoes,  peas,  carrots,  asparagus,  egg  plant,  squash, 
fresh  lima  beans  or  any  other  pulpy  vegetable  may  be 
boiled  in  as  little  water  as  possible,  the  proper  season- 
ings added,  the  pulp  sifted,  filled  while  hot  into  jars  and 
sterilized  the  length  of  time  demanded  by  that  particular 
vegetable.  See  the  time  table  for  sterilizing  vegetables 
given  in  the  previous  part  of  this  chapter. 


MIXED  VEGETABLES 

To  save  garden  waste,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  can  mixed 
vegetables,  to  be  added  to  soup  stock  later  on.  The 
Government  suggests  that  the  following  general  propor- 
tions be  observed.  Soak  6  pounds  of  lima  beans  and  4 
pounds  of  dried  peas  over  night.  Boil  each  one-half 
hour.  Blanch  16  pounds  of  carrots,  6  pounds  cabbage,  3 
pounds  celery,  6  pounds  of  turnips,  4  pounds  of  okra,  I 
pound  of  onions  and  4  pounds  of  parsley  for  three  min- 
utes and  in  cold  water,  quickly.  Prepare  the  vegetables 
and  chop  into  small  cubes.  Chop  the  onions  and  celery 
extra  fine.  Mix  all  of  the  above  thoroughly  and  season  to 
taste.  Pack  in  glass  jars  or  tin  cans.  Fill  with  boiling 
water.  Partially  seal  glass  jars,  cap  and  tin  cans.  Ster- 
ilize ninety  minutes  with  the  hot-water-bath  outfit;  sixty 
minutes  with  the  water-seal  outfit  or  five-pounds  steam- 
pressure  outfit. 


SPECIAL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  CANNING  MEATS 

Success  in  canning  meats  depends  upon  good  jars, 
good  rubbers  and  proper  sterilization.  All  kinds  of  meat 
may  be  canned  by  either  one  of  the  following  methods : 

Fowl  or  game  should  be  drawn  as  soon  as  killed,  care- 


698  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

fully  washed  and  cooled  and  cut  into  convenient  sections. 
Beef,  veal,  lamb  and  mutton  should  be  cooled  quickly  and 
kept  for  about  twenty-four  hours.  Corned  beef  should 
be  corned  the  proper  length  of  time,  then  soaked  for  two 
hours  in  clear  water  to  freshen  it,  the  water  being 
changed  once.  Pork  should  be  cooled  quickly  after 
butchering  and  kept  in  a 'cool  place  for  at  least  twenty- 
four  hours.  Only  the  lean  portions  should  be  canned. 

CANNED  CHICKEN,  GAME  OR  VEAL 

Cut  the  meat  into  convenient  sections  and  boil  until  it 
can  be  removed  from  the  bones.  Remove  from  the  boil- 
ing liquid,  pick  off  the  meat,  and  pack  it  closely  into  jars. 
In  the  meantime  boil  down  the  stock  one-half,  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  to  each  quart  jar  of  meat,  fill  the  jars 
with  the  stock,  adjust  the  rubbers  and  caps  and  sterilize 
three  and  a  half  hours  with  the  hot-water-bath  outfit, 
three  hours  with  the  water  seal  and  two  and  a  half  hours 
with  the  five-pound  steam-pressure  outfit. 

If  undesirable  previously  to  cook  the  meat,  cut  it  into 
sections,  pack  it  into  the  jars,  and  fill  in  with  boiling 
water,  adding  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  each  quart  jar. 
Adjust  the  rubbers  and  caps  and  sterilize  four  hours  in 
the  water-bath  outfit,  three  and  a  half  in  the  water-seal 
and  three  hours  in  the  five-pound  steam-pressure  outfit. 

CANNED  BEEF,  LAMB,  OR  MUTTON 

Cut  the  meat  in  convenient  slices  for  handling,  and 
roast,  or  boil  slowly  for  thirty  minutes.  Cut  into  small 
pieces,  remove  the  gristle,  bone  and  excessive  fat  and 
pack  directly  into  the  jars.  Fill  the  jars  with  gravy 
from  the  roasting  pan,  or  with  stock,  if  the  meat  has  been 
boiled,  cooked  down  one-half,  adjust  the  rubbers  and 
caps  and  sterilize  four  hours  in  the  water-bath  outfit, 
four  hours  in  the  water-seal  and  three  and  a  half  in  the 
five-pound  steam  pressure  outfit. 

CANNED  CORNED  BEEF 

Freshen  the  corned  beef  as  directed  in  the  general  sug- 
gestions, boil  it  slowly  for  thirty  minutes,  then  plunge  it 
into  cold  water.  Remove  the  gristle,  bone  and  excessive 
fat ;  cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces,  pack  closely  into  jars, 


CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING      699 

put  the  rubbers  and  caps  into  position  and  sterilize  four 
hours  in  the  water-bath  outfit,  four  hours  in  the  water- 
seal  and  three  hours  in  the  five-pound  steam-pressure 
outfit. 

CANNED  PORK 

Boil  or  roast  the  meat  for  thirty  minutes.  Cut  into 
small  sections,  after  removing  the  bone,  gristle  and  ex- 
cess fat,  and  pack  closely  into  glass  jars.  Adjust  the 
rubbers  and  caps  and  sterilize  four  hours  in  the  water- 
bath  outfit,  three  hours  in  the  water-seal  and  three  hours 
in  the  five-pound  steam-pressure  outfit. 

SPECIAL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  CANNING  FISH 

Make  a  brine  of  salt  and  cold  water  that  will  float  a 
potato  and,  after  cleaning  the  fish  properly,  let  it  stand  in 
the  brine  for  thirty  minutes.  Remove  from  the  brine, 
cut  into  convenient  sections,  pack  into  glass  jars,  adding 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  each  quart  jar.  If  the  skin  is 
not  removed,  pack  the  jar  so  that  the  skin  will  be  next 
the  glass.  If  possible,  remove  the  bones  before  packing 
the  fish ;  sterilize  three  hours  in  the  water-bath  outfit, 
three  hours  in  the  water-seal  and  two  and  a  half  hours  in 
the  five-pound  steam-pressure  outfit.  Use  only  fresh 
fish. 

CANNED  OYSTERS  OR  CLAMS 

Select  fresh  products,  not  more  than  twenty-four  hours 
out  of  the  water.  Rinse  carefully  in  fresh  salted  water 
and  plunge  the  clams  or  oysters  into  boiling  water  for  a 
few  minutes.  Pack  into  glass  jars,  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt  to  each  quart  jar,  adjust  the  rubbers  and  caps  and 
sterilize  three  hours  in  a  water-bath  outfit,  two  in  a  water- 
seal  and  one  and  a  half  hours  in  a  five-pound  steam- 
pressure  outfit. 

JAMS,  MARMALADES  AND  CONSERVES 

All  three  of  these  preserves  may  be  made  of  a  single 
fruit  or  of  a  mixture  of  two  or  more  fruits.  Berries,  cur- 
rants and  gooseberries  should  be  washed  and  then 
mashed,  while  firm  fruits,  like  apples,  peaches  and  pears, 


700  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

should  be  washed,  pared  and  cored,  or  stoned,  then  sliced. 
The  fruit  should  stand  in  alternate  layers  with  sugar  for 
several  hours  to  extract  the  juices.  Berries  and  juicy 
fruits  do  not  need  the  addition  of  any  water,  but  drier 
fruits,  such  as  apples  and  pears,  should  have  a  little 
added  to  start  the  juices.  They  should  be  brought  slowly 
to  the  boiling  point  and  then  simmered  until  so  thick  that 
a  little  will  stiffen  if  dropped  on  a  cold  plate.  For  each 
pound  of  fruit  used,  after  preparing,  allow^three-fourths 
of  a  pound  of  granulated  sugar,  or  one-half  pound  of 
granulated  sugar  and  one- fourth  pound  of  white  corn 
syrup. 

Pour  the  preserves  into  jars  or  glasses,  boiled  for  five 
minutes,  and,  when  cool,  seal  with  melted  paraffine  and 
cover,  or  paste  brown  paper  over  the  tops.  If  desired, 
they  may  be  put  into  pint  jars,  the  rubbers  and  caps 
adjusted,  and  then  sterilized  twenty  minutes  in  the  hot- 
water  bath,  or  ten  minutes  in  the  water-seal  or  in  the  five- 
pound  steam-pressure  outfit.  This  is  an  extra  precau- 
tion against  spoilage. 

Blackberry  Jam 

See  general  directions  for  making  jam. 

Raspberry  or  Strawberry  Jam 

See  general  directions  for  making  jam.  If  desired,  the 
raspberries  may  be  combined  with  one-quarter  their 
weight  in  currants,  or  may  be  used  with  equal  parts  of 
blueberries.  Or  strawberries  may  be  combined  with  an 
equal  amount  of  diced,  unpeeled  rhubarb. 

Loganberry  Jam 
See  general  directions  for  making  jam. 

Cherry  Jam 

Use  rather  sweet  cherries.  Remove  the  stones,  and 
follow  general  directions  for  making  jam. 

Gooseberry  Jam 

Stem  and  wash  the  gooseberries,  mash  and  cook  gently 
in  their  own  juices  until  they  are  tender.  Add  an  equal 


CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING      701 

weight  of  sugar  and  simmer  until  thick.     If  desired,  equal 
parts  of  gooseberries  and  currants  may  be  used. 

Dried  Peach  or  Apricot  Jam 

1  pound    dried    apricots    or  Water 
peaches  I  orange 

2  lemons  Sugar 

Wash  the  fruit  and  soak  it  over  night,  with  the  orange 
and  lemon  sliced  thin,  rind  and  all.  Then  stew  very 
slowly  in  the  same  water  barely  to  cover  and  sift  through 
a  colander.  Add  two-thirds  as  much  sugar  by  measure 
as  fruit  pulp,  simmer  very  slowly  until  thick;  seal  as 
usual  or  sterilize  in  jars  if  desired. 

Peach  Marmalade 

Blanch  the  peaches,  remove  the  skins  and  stones  and 
chop  the  pulp  fine.  Add  two-thirds  the  weight  of  sugar 
and  cook  slowly  until  thick,  about  thirty-five  minutes. 
Seal  as  usual  or  sterilize  in  jars  if  desired. 

Grape  Marmalade 

7  cupfuls  sifted  grape  pulp  i  pound   chopped  English 

2  cupfuls  grape  skins  walnuts 

1  pound  chopped  raisins  .       4^  cupfuls  sugar 

Cook  the  grape  pulp  to  a  mush  and  sift  it.  In  the 
meantime,  simmer  the  skins  until  tender  in  water  to 
cover,  add  the  raisins,  combine  with  the  sifted  pulp  and 
the  sugar  and  simmer  until  thick,  then  add  the  nut  meats 
and  cook  half  an  hour  longer.  Seal  as  directed,  or  ster- 
ilize in  jars  if  desired. 

Rhubarb  Marmalade 

10  cupfuls  diced  rhubarb  4  lemons 

2  cupfuls  chopped  walnut  I  cupful  raisins 
meats                                              10  cupfuls  sugar 

Do  not  peel  the  rhubarb.  Put  it  in  a  kettle,  add  a  pint 
of  water  and  boil  gently  until  soft,  then  add  the  nuts, 
sugar,  lemon  juice  and  the  grated  lemon  rind.  Cook 
gently  until  thick,  about  forty  minutes,  and  seal  as  usual, 
or  sterilize  in  jars. 

Pineapple  Marmalade 
Pare  and  remove  the  eyes   from   four  medium-sized 


702  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

pineapples,  which  should  be  ripe,  but  not  soft.  Shred 
the  pineapple,  and  add  one  orange  sliced  very  thin  and  a 
thinly-sliced  lemon.  Cook  the  mixture  for  a  few  min- 
utes until  reduced  in  bulk,  then  measure  and  stir  in  two- 
thirds  the  amount  of  sugar.  Simmer  until  thick  and 
translucent.  Then  seal  in  sterilized  jelly  glasses. 

Orange  Marmalade 

4  oranges  Sugar 

3  lemons  Water 

2  grapefruit 

Slice  the  fruit  very  thin,  leaving  on  the  rinds  of  three 
of  the  oranges  and  one  grapefruit.  Weigh  and  add  two 
cupfuls  of  water  to  each  pound  of  fruit,  letting  it  stand 
twenty- four  hours.  Then  boil  for  one  hour,  set  aside  in  a 
cool  place  for  twenty-four  hours  and  to  each  pound  of 
fruit  juice  add  two  cupfuls  of  sugar.  Boil  slowly  for  an 
hour,  skimming  as  necessary,  and  pour  into  sterilized 
glasses,  as  usual,  or  sterilize  in  jars  if  desired.  Be  care- 
ful to  omit  the  seeds  and  use  thin-skinned  fruit  if  possible. 

Kumquat  Marmalade 

2  quarts  kumquats  Water 

2  lemons  \   pound   pecan   nut   meats 
Sugar  (optional) 

Wash  the  kumquats,  cut  in  quarters,  rejecting  the 
seeds ;  slice  the  lemons,  taking  out  the  seeds,  weigh  com- 
bined fruits  and  add  two  cupfuls  of  water  to  each  pound 
of  fruit,  letting  it  stand  twenty-four  hours.  Then  boil 
gently  for  an  hour,  drain  the  fruit  from  the  liquid  and 
chop  it.  Return  the  pulp  to  the  liquid,  measure  it,  add 
an  equal  quantity  of  sugar  and  boil  gently  till  thick.  If 
the  nuts  are  to  be  used,  they  should  be  added  with  the 
sugar.  Seal  as  usual  in  sterilized  glasses. 

Fig  Conserve 

i  pound  dried  "figs  2  cupfuls  chopped  walnut 

3  cupfuls  sugar  meats 

\  cupful  orange  juice  2  cupfuls^  raisins,  halved 

£  cupful  lemon  juice  Grated  rind  one  orange 

Wash  the  figs  and  soak  over  night  with  the  raisins  in 
water  to  cover.  Cook  until  tender  in  the  same  water, 


CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING      703 

then  chop  fine  and  simmer  until  almost  thick  enough. 
Then  stir  in  the  nut  meats,  finish  cooking  and  seal  in 
sterilized  glasses. 

Cranberry  Conserve 

I  quart  cranberries  I  cupful  raisins 

i  cupful  water  2  cupfuls  sugar 

Juice  and  pulp  2  oranges 

Cook  the  cranberries,  oranges,  raisins  and  water  to- 
gether until  the  cranberries  burst,  and  the  whole  mixture 
•is  soft.  Add  the  sugar,  let  simmer  until  thick  and  seal 
as  usual  in  sterilized  glasses. 

Yellow  Tomato  Preserves 

6   pounds    yellow    tomatoes  i  cupful  minced  green  gin- 

i   pound  sugar  ger  root 

Juice    and    grated    rind    of 
i  lemon 

Blanch  the  tomatoes  and  remove  the  skins.  Add  the 
sugar,  the  lemon  juice  and  rind  and  the  ginger  root.  Let 
stand  over  night,  then  cook  gently  until  half  done.  Pour 
into  jars.  Adjust  the  rubbers  and  caps  and  sterilize 
twenty  minutes  in  the  hot-water-bath  outfit,  or  fifteen 
minutes  in  the  water-seal  or  five-pound  steam-pressure 
outfit. 

Preserved  Pears  with  Ginger 

8  pounds  winter  pears  6  lemons 

5  pounds  sugar  i  pound  candied  ginger 

Blanch  the  pears,  remove  the  skins  and  cut  the  pulp  in 
small  pieces.  Slice  the  lemons  very  thin,  leaving  on  the 
rind  of  two  of  them.  Chop  the  ginger  and  add  it  to  the 
pears  with  the  sugar  and  lemons.  Cover  and  let  stand 
twenty-four  hours ;  then  simmer  until  translucent.  Pour 
into  jars,  adjust  the  rubbers  and  caps  and  cook  ten 
minutes  in  the  hot-water-bath  outfit. 

Preserved  Cherries 

Select  sour  red  cherries.  Remove  the  stones.  Put 
the  cherries  in  alternate  layers  in  the  preserving  kettle, 
with  half  their  weight  in  sugar,  and  one-fourth  their 
weight  in  honey.  (All  sugar  may  be  used  if  desired.) 
Let  stand  twenty-four  hours,  and  then  simmer  gently 


704  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

until  the  cherries  are  tender.  Pour  into  glass  jars,  ad- 
just the  caps  and  rubbers,  and  sterilize  ten  minutes  in  the 
hot-water-bath  outfit. 

Green  Tomato  Preserves 

4  quarts   green   tomatoes,  i  pint  water 

sliced  3  cupfuls  sugar 

4  lemons 

Wash  the  lemons  and  slice  very  thin.  Simmer  in  the 
water  until  the  rinds  are  tender;  turn  in  the  tomatoes 
and  simmer  until  translucent.  Then  add  the  sugar. 
Cook  until  thick  and  rich  and  pour  into  sterilized  jars, 
filling  them  full.  Adjust  the  rubbers  and  caps  and  ster- 
ilize ten  minutes  in  the  hot-water-bath  outfit. 

Preserved  Strawberries 

Hull  the  berries  and  measure  them.  Allow  an  equal 
quantity  of  sugar.  Place  in  alternate  layers  with  the 
sugar  in  the  preserving  kettle,  let  stand  a  few  moments, 
then  bring  rapidly  to  boiling  point,  stirring  all  the  time, 
and  boil  for  ten  minutes.  Pour  into  sterilized  glasses, 
and,  when  cool,  seal  with  paraffine. 

Preserved  Strawberries  —  Cold  Method 

Wash  and  hull  the  berries.  Weigh  them,  and  then 
weigh  out  once  and  a  quarter  their  weight  in  sugar. 
Mash  the  berries  and  put  a  layer  in  a  scalded  stone  crock. 
Add  a  layer  of  sugar  and  then  one  of  berries  and  con- 
tinue until  all  are  used.  Stand  in  a  cold  place  for 
twenty-four  hours,  stirring  occasionally,  then  seal  in 
sterilized  jars. 


SUN-DRIED   PRESERVES    (COOKED   METHOD) 

Raspberries,  Strawberries  and  Cherries 
Wash  the  fruit  and  hull  the  strawberries,  or  stone  the 
cherries.  Look  over  the  raspberries  carefully  to  see  that 
there  are  no  insects.  Weigh  the  fruit,  and  to  each  pound 
allow  one  pound  of  granulated  sugar.  Put  in  alternate 
layers  with  the  sugar  in  a  preserving  kettle  and  heat 
slowly.  Set  the  kettle  on  an  asbestos  mat,  so  that  the 
fruit  will  not  burn,  but  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  stir  it. 


CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING      705 

Boil  gently  for  eight  minutes,  then  pour  into  large  enamel 
pans  or  platters  to  about  one-fourth  inch  in  thickness. 
Let  stand  in  the  hot  sun  for  a  day  when  it  should  be 
thickened  or  slightly  jellied.  If  the  sun  is  not  very  hot, 
it  may  be  necessary  to  let  it  stand  for  two  days.  A  good 
place  is  a  piazza,  roof  which  has  a  metal  top.  Store  in 
sterilized  jars  and  seal  with  paraffine. 

Sun-Dried  Fruits  (Uncooked  Method) 
Ripe  apricots,  peaches,  cherries,  raspberries  and  straw- 
berries may  be  preserved  in  this  way. 

Hull  the  strawberries,  remove  the  skins  from  the 
peaches  and  apricots,  and  stone  the  cherries  —  according 
to  the  fruit  that  is  to  be  used.  Slice  the  apricots  or 
peaches  thin.  Lay  on  enamel  pans  or  platters ;  sprinkle 
thickly  with  granulated  sugar.  Use  the  same  method  for 
the  strawberries  or  cherries.  Let  stand  in  the  hot  sun 
for  a  day  or  two,  but  take  the  fruit  in  at  night,  and  turn 
it  over  occasionally.  Care  must  be  taken  to  select  only 
perfect  fruit.  Store  in  sterilized  jars  and  seal  with  par- 
affine. 

Preserved  Kumquats 

2  quarts  kumquats  4  cupfuls  water 

4  cupfuls   sugar 

Blanch  the  kumquats,  then  boil  up  in  cold  water. 
Drain  and  repeat  the  process.  Make  a  syrup  of  the  sugar 
and  water,  boiling  it  for  fifteen  minutes,  and  then  add 
the  kumquats,  cooking  them  until  they  are  translucent. 
By  this  time  the  syrup  will  be  thick  and  rich.  Store  in 
sterilized  jars,  filling  them  full  to  overflowing,  and  placing 
on  the  sterilized  rubbers  and  tops.  If  desired,  a  cupful 
of  honey  or  of  white  corn  syrup  may  replace  one  cupful 
of  sugar. 

Baked  Strawberry  Preserve 

Wash  and  hull  the  strawberries.  Measure,  and  to 
each  two  heaping  cupfuls  allow  a  level  cupful  of  sugar 
and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  hot  water.  Put  in  layers  in  a 
bean  pot  or  other  large  baking  dish,  cover  and  let  stand 
half  an  hour  to  start  the  juices.  Then  place  in  a  cold 
oven  and  turn  on  both  gas  burners.  After  ten  minutes 
turn  off  one  and  reduce  the  other  burner  half,  or  bake  in 


706  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

a  slow  coal  or  electric  oven.  Cook  forty  minutes. 
Transfer  to  sterilized  glasses  and  seal  with  melted  paraf- 
fme. 

To  make  a  very  rich  jam,  like  the  "  sun-dried  "  variety, 
spread  the  oven-baked  strawberries  one-fourth  of  an  inch 
deep  on  platters  or  enameled  trays  and  bake  very  slowly 
for  an  hour.  Seal  as  above. 

Baked  Plum  Preserve 

Wash  the  plums,  remove  the  stones  and  measure  the 
fruit.  Then  proceed  as  directed  in  Baked  Strawberry 
Preserve.  Purple  plums  are  best  for  this  purpose. 

Quince  Honey 

2  large  quinces  2  cupfuls  water 

I  quart  sugar 

Pare  the  quinces  and  grate  them.  In  the  meantime 
boil  together  the  sugar  and  water  for  five  minutes.  Then 
add  the  quinces,  and  boil  until  they  look  translucent, 
about  eight  minutes.  Place  in  sterilized  jars  and  seal 
with  melted  paraffine. 


APPLE,  PLUM,  PEACH,  GRAPE  AND  QUINCE 
BUTTER 

Wash  the  fruit  thoroughly.  Cut  the  hard  fruits  in 
pieces  but  do  not  remove  skins  or  cores.  Crush  the 
grapes,  if  used.  Cover  the  fruit  with  cold  water,  bring 
to  boiling  point  and  cook  until  soft.  Then  rub  through 
a  coarse  sieve  to  remove  the  seeds  and  cores.  Measure 
the  pulp  and  to  each  quart  allow  half  as  much  sugar, 
either  granulated  or  light  brown,  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
powdered  cinnamon  and  J  tablespoonful  of  ground  clove. 
Return  to  the  heat ;  simmer  until  thick,  and  store  in  ster- 
ilized jars.  The  apple  butter  is  improved  if  sweet  cider 
is  substituted  for  the  water  in  the  preliminary  boiling. 

If  desired,  the  pulp  left  from  making  jelly  may  be  used 
in  making  these  butters  by  adding  more  water,  allowing 
the  mixture  to  come  to  a  boil  and  then  proceeding  as 
though  fresh  fruit  had  been  used.  If  desired,  a  little 
fresh  fruit  may  be  added,  and  the  sifted  fruit  combined 


CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING       707 

with  it.  Combinations  of  fruits  may  be  used  in  making 
these  butters  as  equal  parts  of  apples  and  quinces,  peaches 
and  apples,  or  plums  and  apples. 

Tomato  Butter 

Use  yellow  or  red  tomatoes.  Plunge  them  into  hot 
water,  remove  the  skins  and  stew  the  tomatoes  with  a 
few  cloves  and  a  little  stick  of  cinnamon.  Sift  the  mix- 
ture and  to  each  quart  of  pulp  allow  two-thirds  as  much 
granulated  or  light  brown  sugar.  Stew  very  slowly  until 
the  mixture  is  thick,  and  store  in  stone  crocks.  A  mix- 
ture of  tomato  and  apple  gives  delicious  results. 

CANNING  FRUIT  JUICES 

The  juice  from  any  type  of  fruit  may  be  canned,  the 
method  being  the  same  for  all  kinds,  the  only  difference 
being  that  if  dry  or  hard  fruits  are  used,  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  add  a  little  water  to  start  the  juices,  while  if  soft 
fruits  are  used,  like  grapes  or  blackberries,  the  water  is 
not  necessary.  It  is  an  economy  of  space  and  jars  to 
make  the  fruit  juice  very  condensed,  diluting  it,  when 
using,  with  the  desired  amount  of  water. 

A  much  better  color  and  flavor  is  obtained  if  the  fruit 
is  not  cooked  directly  over  the  heat,  but  rather  is 
steamed. 

The  amount  of  sugar  to  be  used  depends  upon  the 
kind  of  fruit  juice,  but,  generally  speaking,  from  one-half 
to  a  cupful  of  sugar  is  ample  for  a  quart  of  juice  if  a 
sweet  result  is  desired.  But  if  it  is  not  practicable  to  add 
the  sugar  when  the  fruit  juice  is  being  put  up,  it  will 
keep  equally  well  without  it,  and  if  desired  may  be  used 
late'r  on  in  the  season  for  making  jellies. 

When  there  are  a  great  many  apples  on  hand  they  may 
form  the  basis  for  delicious  jellies  made  with  an  apple 
foundation  combined  with  any  desired  proportion  of 
canned  fruit  juices,  the  flavor  of  the  jelly  being  almost  as 
good  as  when  the  more  expensive  fruit  is  entirely  used. 

Method  for  Soft  Fruits 

Wash  and  crush  the  fruit  in  a  good-sized  preserving 
kettle.  To  each  peck  of  fruit  allow  a  pint  of  water.  Set 
this  kettle  in  a  hot-water  bath,  that  is,  a  kettle  of  larger 


708  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

size  containing  hot  water,  and  steam  the  fruit  until  it  is 
tender  and  the  juices  run  freely.  Strain  through  a 
flannelette  jelly  bag.  Pour  the  juice  into  jars  or  bottles 
with  patent  tops.  Adjust  the  rubbers  and  tops  and  ster- 
ilize thirty  minutes  for  pint  jars  and  sixty  minutes  for 
larger  jars,  in  the  hot-water-bath5  pouring  in  water  only 
to  the  necks  of  the  bottles,  if  used. 

Method  for  Hard  Fruits 

Hard  fruit  juices  may  be  obtained  in  the  same  way 
by  using  more  water  and  cooking  the  fruit  in  the  kettle 
for  a  longer  time. 

If  sugar  is  to  be  added,  it  should  be  mixed  into  the 
strained  juice.  If  the  bag  is  squeezed,  the  juice  will  be 
cloudy,  but  it  may  be  used  as  "  seconds  "  for  jelly-mak- 
ing. If  ordinary  bottles  are  used,  they  should  be  filled 
with  the  liquid,  and  boiled  in  the  water-bath  as  for  the 
patent  bottles,  the  tops  being  stuffed  with  absorbent  cot- 
ton. The  tops  should  be  dipped  in  melted  paraffine  to 
form  a  perfect  seal. 

JELLY-MAKING 

Success  in  jelly-making  largely  depends,  not  upon 
"  good  luck  or  bad  luck  "  but  upon  whether  or  not  pec- 
tin (a  vegetable  starch  that  stiffens  the  jelly)  is  present 
in  sufficient  quantities  to  make  it  harden.  Most  of  the 
pectin  is  present  in  the  skins  and  cores  of  the  fruits  and 
is  found  in  greater  abundance  in  under-ripe  fruit,  and  in 
lesser  amount  in  fruit  that  is  ripe.  So,  if  possible,  choose 
fruits  that  are  a  little  green,  or  at  least  not  over-ripe. 

Wash  the  fruit,  and>  if  it  is  of  a  juicy  type  like  cur- 
rants or  grapes,  crush  it  in  a  preserving  kettle,  setting  this 
in  turn  in  a  larger  utensil  containing  hot  water  to  form  a 
hot-water  bath.  Cook  gently  until  the  fruit  is  tender 
and  the  juice  is  running  freely.  Then  drain  through  a 
flannelette  jelly  bag,  but  do  not  squeeze  it  if  a  clear  effect 
is  desired.  In  using  hard  fruits,  as  apples,  add  enough 
water  to  keep  them  from  burning  and  boil  them  until  they 
are  soft. 

Testing  the  Juices  for  Pectin 

To  make  sure  that  the  jelly  will  stiffen,  put  2  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  the  unboiled  and  unsweetened  juice  in  a  tumbler 


CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING       709 

and  add  2  teaspoonfuls  of  grain  alcohol.  Stir  until  well- 
mixed,  and  let  stand  for  half  an  hour.  If  a  jelly-like 
substance  collects  in  the  bottom  of  the  tumbler,  it  is  evi- 
dent that  pectin  or  the  jelly -making  principle  of  fruits  is 
present.  If  pectin  is  lacking,  boil  a  few  apples  (as  these 
are  rich  in  pectin),  some  green  citron  melon,  or  the 
white  inner  skin  of  a  few  oranges,  and  add  it  to  the 
fruit  juices.  This  inner  skin  of  the  oranges  may  be 
saved  the  year  through  and  dried  to  be  ready  for  such  an 
emergency. 

Finishing  the  Jelly 

Measure  the  juice.  Then  bring  to  boiling  point  and  boil 
rapidly  for  twenty  minutes.  Add  to  this  three-fourths 
the  quantity  of  granulated  sugar,  warmed  in  the  oven,  or 
one-half  the  quantity  of  sugar,  and  one-fourth  the  quan- 
tity of  white  corn  syrup.  Boil  briskly  until  two  rows  of 
drops  form  on  the  end  of  a  spoon  held  sidewise.  The 
temperature  is  usually  about  220°  F.  Pour  into  steril- 
ized glasses.  Let  stiffen  and,  when  cool,  seal  with 
melted  paraffine. 

Most  common  fruits  may  be  made  into  jellies  if  they 
are  sound,  not  too  ripe,  although  pear  jelly  is  difficult  to 
make.  If,  however,  the  pears  are  combined  with  apples 
this  difficulty  may  be  overcome.  Apples  and  cranberries 
in  the  proportion  of  one  quart  of  cranberries  to  a  peck 
of  apples;  apples  and  quinces,  in  the  proportion  of  2 
quinces  to  2  quarts  of  apples ;  apples,  with  any  other 
canned  fruit  juices  in  the  proportion  of  a  quart  of  juice 
to  a  peck  of  apples,  will  make  delicious  jelly.  Green- 
skinned  apples  alone  make  a  clear  amber  jelly  and  red- 
skinned  apples  make  jelly  of  a  deep  pink  color.  Cur- 
rants and  raspberries,  or  loganberries,  are  delicious  in 
combination,  while  blackberries  may  be  reinforced  by 
apples  to  keep  down  expense.  Barberries  and  apples  in 
the  proportion  of  a  quart  of  barberries  and  a  peck  of 
apples  make  a  delicious  jelly.  They  are  especially  suit- 
able to  serve  with  game.  Elderberries  may  be  used 
either  alone  or  in  combination  with  equal  parts  of  ripe 
grapes  or  currants. 

It  is  usually  customary  to  make  jellies  of  the  fruit 
juices  and  sugar  only,  but  if  desired  a  little  whole  spice 
may  be  cooked  with  the  fruit  juice,  a  little  orange  or 


7io  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

lemon  rind  may  be  added,  or,  in  case  the  juice  seems  in- 
sipid, a  little  lemon  juice.  Old-fashioned  cooks  still  use 
a  rose  geranium  leaf  or  a  spray  of  lemon  verbena  in  their 
apple  jelly. 

PICKLING 

The  making  of  ordinary  sour  or  sweet  pickles,  as  gher- 
kins or  green  tomatoes,  may  be  successfully  done  at 
home,  without  the  use  of  preserving  powders,  alum,  or  a 
copper  or  brass  kettle  to  make  them  green.  All  of  these 
methods  of  preserving  the  color  are  inimical  to  health 
and  should  be  absolutely  avoided. 

In  making  whole  cucumber  pickles,  select  the  fresh 
vegetable,  and  brush  rather  than  wash  them.  They 
should  then  be  put  in  brine  because  the  brine  draws  out 
the  moisture  and  therefore  makes  a  more  compact  and 
firm  pickle.  Because  salt  is  a  preservative  the  prelim- 
inary soaking  in  brine  also  assists  in  keeping  the  pickles 
for  an  indefinite  period.  The  brine  should  not  be  too 
strong  lest  it  soften  the  vegetable. 

Brine  for  Pickles 

Add  enough  ordinary  salt  to  a  quart  of  water  to  float 
a  fresh  egg — .about  one-half  cupful. 

To  Keep  Pickles  Green 

The  old-fashioned  method  of  lining  the  preserving 
kettle  in  pickle-making  with  grape  leaves,  cabbage  leaves 
and  covering  the  mixture  with  them,  gives  a  delicious 
flavor  and  assists  in  retaining  the  color.  A  few  cherry 
leaves  or  tendrils  of  grape  vines  are  an  addition. 

Sour  Cucumber  Pickles 

Let  the  cucumbers  stand  in  a  brine  for  twenty- four 
hours.  Then  drain  them.  Cover  with  pickle  vinegar, 
and  bring  to  boiling  point.  Transfer  the  pickles  to  jars 
and  cover  with  the  vinegar. 

-Sour  Pickling  Vinegar 

1  quart  vinegar  One  3-inch  strip  stick  cinna- 

2  teaspoonfuls   whole  black  mon,  broken 

pepper  I  teaspoonful  celery  seed 

From    i    to    2   teaspoonfuls  i  teaspoonful   whole    cloves 

grated  horseradish  I  teaspoonful  mustard  seed 

i  tablespoonful  brown  sugar 


CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING       711 

Bring  to  boiling  point.  Boil  a  minute  or  two  and  cool 
before  pouring  over  the  pickles. 

Sweet  Cucumber  Pickles 

Soak  small  gherkins  in  the  brine,  as  directed.  Finish 
as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  using  sweet  pickling  vinegar. 

Sweet  Pickling  Vinegar 

Add  a  cupful  of  sugar  to  the  ingredients  for  making 
sour  pickling  vinegar. 

Green  Tomato  Pickle 

Wash  four  quarts  of  green  tomatoes,  peel  five  small 
onions  and  five  green  peppers.  Slice  or  chop  them,  cover 
with  a  brine  made  as  directed,  and  let  stand  over  night. 
In  the  morning,  drain  and  add  once  the  recipe  for  sour 
pickling  vinegar.  Simmer  for  twenty  minutes  and  seal 
in  jars  while  hot. 

Sweet  Green  Tomato  Pickle 

Wash  five  quarts  of  green  tomatoes,  and  peel  five 
onions.  Slice,  let  stand  over  night  in  a  brine  made  as 
directed.  Drain,  cover  with  sweet  pickling  vinegar  and 
boil  for  fifteen  minutes.  Seal  while  hot. 

Piccalilli 

1  peck  green  tomatoes  i  ounce  white  mustard  seed 

2  quarts   sweet  green  pep-  2  ounces   stick   cinnamon 
pers  broken 

2  onions  if  ounces  whole  cloves 

i  medium-sized  cabbage  i  ounce  whole  allspice 

I  head  celery  I  cupful  salt 

li  cupfuls  brown  sugar  Vinegar 
ii  cupfuls  granulated  sugar 

Wash  the  tomatoes  and  peppers.  Remove  the  bloom 
ends  from  the  tomatoes  and  the  seeds  from  the  peppers. 
Peel  the  onions,  and  quarter  the  cabbage,  removing  the 
core.  Clean  the  celery,  and  chop  the  vegetables  sep- 
arately. Put  in  a  preserving  kettle  in  alternating  layers 
with  the  salt  and  let  stand  over  night.  Then  drain  off 
the  liquid.  Tie  the  spices  in  a  bit  of  cheescloth.  Add 
to  the  vegetable  mixture  with  the  sugar.  Cover  with 


712  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

vinegar,  gradually  heat  and   simmer  till  the   vegetables 
are  translucent.     Transfer  to  sterilized  jars,  and  seal. 

Cucumber  Chowchow 

3  quarts  chopped,  seeded  6  tablespoonfuls  celery  seed 
cucumbers  ii  teaspoonfuls  white  pepper 

ii  quarts  chopped  onions  Salt 

ii  pints  chopped  green  pep-  Vinegar  to  cover 

pers 

Combine  the  cucumber,  onion  and  peppers,  and  sprin- 
kle them  sparingly  with  salt.  About  two  tablespoonfuls 
and  a  half  will  be  sufficient.  Cover  and  let  stand  over 
night  in  a  cool  place.  In  the  morning  add  the  celery 
seed  and  the  pepper,  together  with  vinegar  to  cover,  and 
store.  This  should  not  be  cooked.  A  head  of  celery,  or 
two  cupfuls  of  finely-chopped  cabbage,  may  be  added  if 
desired. 

Stuffed  Vegetable  Pickles  or  Mangoes 

The  term  "  mangoes  "  in  reality  covers  all  sorts  of 
stuffed,  pickled  vegetables,  as  cucumbers,  large  green 
tomatoes,  green  peppers  and  small  green  watermelons  or 
green  cantaloupes.  If  cucumbers  are  used,  they  should 
be  short  and  stubby.  Tomatoes  should  be  just  turning 
ripe,  and  melons  be  of  about  the  same  size.  Cucum- 
bers should  be  pared,  and  the  tops  cut  off  and  the  seeds 
scooped  out,  forming  cups.  Tomatoes  should  not  be 
peeled,  slices  from  the  stem  ends  should  be  removed  and 
the  pulp  taken  out.  Peppers  should  have  the  stem  ends 
cut  off  to  form  lids,  and  the  seeds  removed,  and  melons 
should  have  thin  sections  removed  and  the  seeds  taken 
out. 

The  vegetable  should  then  be  put  to  soak  over  night  in 
brine  made  in  the  proportion  of  a  cupful  of  salt  to  two 
quarts  of  water.  In  the  meantime,  the  stuffing  may  be 
prepared  ready  for  use  in  the  morning.  It  is  impossible 
to  give  the  exact  amount,  as  it  varies  with  the  size  of 
the  vegetable  cavities,  but  roughly  the  following  propor- 
tions are  ample  to  stuff  two  dozen  medium-sized  green 
peppers,  and  other  vegetables  of  comparative  size : 

4  quarts   of   finely-chopped  3  cupfuls  chopped  onion 
cabbage  i  tablespoonful  ground  clove 

2  quarts  finely-chopped  eel-  i  tablespoonful  ground  cin- 

ery  namon 


CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING       713 

i  tablespoonful  pepper  i  tablespoonful  mustard  seed 

i  tablespoonful  allspice 

Mix,  cover  and  let  stand  over  night;  then  fill  the 
cavities,  replace  the  tops,  fastening  them  with  twine  or 
toothpicks,  cover  with  cold  vinegar  and  let  stand  over 
night.  The  next  day  simmer  for  half  an  hour  in  the 
vinegar.  Remove,  put  in  a  stone  crock,  and  cover  with 
fresh  cold  vinegar.  This  completes  the  process  for  to- 
mato and  pepper  mangoes.  In  making  melon  and  cu- 
cumber mangoes,  pour  off  this  vinegar,  after  standing 
twenty-four  hours,  add  a  half  cupful  of  sugar  to  each 
quart,  and  pour  scalding  hot  over  the  mangoes.  Repeat 
this  for  three  or  four  mornings. 

Sweet  Pickled  Vegetables 

2\  cupfuls  mild  vinegar  2  teaspoonful  whole  cloves 

i  cupful  sugar  Grating  of  lemon  rind 

2,  small  bay  leaves  i  inch  of  stick  cinnamon 

Boil  together  for  twenty  minutes ;  add  three  cupfuls  or 
more  of  cooked  shredded  carrots,  being  sure  that  the 
vinegar  covers  them,  or  substitute  cooked  cauliflower, 
separated  from  the  flowerets,  Brussels  sprouts,  sliced 
cooked  beets,  or  cooked  string  beans.  If  desired,  this 
can  be  made  into  a  mixed  vegetable  pickle.  It  is  always 
advisable  to  let  the  vegetables  simmer  for  five  minutes  in 
the  pickle.  If  beets  are  used,  thinly  sliced  onions  and  a 
little  caraway  seed  may  be  added. 

Sweet  Pickled  Pears,  Peaches  or  Crab  Apples 

I  peck  of  peaches,  pears  or  i  quart  mild  vinegar 

crab  apples  i  ounce   stick  cinnamon 

2.  pounds  brown  sugar  Whole  cloves 

Make  a  syrup  of  the  sugar,  vinegar  and  cinnamon, 
boiling  it  ten  minutes.  Blanch  the  fruit.  Remove  the 
skins  from  the  peaches,  but  leave  on  the  skins  of  the 
crab  apples  or  pears.  Stick  each  fruit  with  four  or  five 
cloves,  and  cook  the  fruit,  a  few  at  a  time,  in  the  syrup 
until  soft.  Transfer  to  sterilized  jars,  and,  when  the 
jars  are  full,  pour  over  boiling  syrup,  adjust  the  rubbers 
and  caps  and  sterilize  ten  minutes  in  a  hot-water-bath. 


714  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Spiced  Grape 

7  pounds  grapes  i  tablespoonful  ground  cin- 

4  pounds  brown  sugar  namon 

i  quart  mild  vinegar  i  tablespoonful  ground  clove 

i  teaspoonful  white  pepper 

Pulp  the  grapes  and  cook  gently  till  the  seeds  are  sep- 
arated. Rub  through  a  sieve  and  add  the  skins,  sugar  and 
the  vinegar.  Cook  an  hour  and  a  half  or  until  the  skins 
are  tender.  Add  the  spices  and  cook  ten  minutes.  Seal 
hot  in  sterilized  jars. 

Spiced  Rhubarb 

10  cupfuls  diced  rhubarb  8  cupfuls  granulated  sugar 
i  pint  good  cider  vinegar  2  teaspoonfuls  cinnamon 
i£  teaspoonfuls  cloves 

Add  the  vinegar  to  the  unpeeled  rhubarb  and  let  it  sim- 
mer until  the  rhubarb  is  soft.  Then  turn  in  the  sugar 
and  spices  and  simmer  until  of  the  consistency  of  marma- 
lade. If  a  tart  preserve  is  preferred,  less  sugar  may  be 
used.  Store  in  sterilized  jars,  and  cover  with  paraffine 
when  cold. 

Sweet  Pickled  Cherries,  or 
Home-Made  Maraschino  Cherries 

Select  large  ox-heart  cherries.  Wash  them  and  re- 
move the  pits.  Let  stand  for  a  day  or  two,  covered  with 
mild  vinegar,  and  then  put  in  jars  in  alternating  layers 
with  granulated  sugar.  Cover  with  vinegar  and  stir 
every  day  for  a  week.  Let  stand  for  a  month  or  two  and 
then  add  to  each  quart  jar  a  teaspoonful  of  pure  cherry 
extract  and  a  drop  or  two  of  almond  extract.  They  will 
keep  indefinitely  without  sealing. 

Apple  Chutney 

18  spur  apples  il  cupfuls  currant  or  other 
3  minced  sweet  green  pep-  tart  jelly 

pers  i£  cupfuls  sugar 

i  minced  onion-  Juice  4  lemons 

11  cupfuls  seeded  and  12  tablespoonfuls  ground 
•chopped  raisins  ginger 

li  pints  cider  vinegar  1  teaspoonful  cayenne 

i  tablespoonful  salt 

Pare,  core  and  chop  the  apples  and  the  onion.  Remove 
the  seeds  and  cores  of  the  peppers  and  chop  the  flesh  fine. 


CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING      715 

Put  the  ingredients  together  in  the  order  given  and  sim- 
mer until  thick.     Seal  hot  in  sterilized  jars. 

Tomato  Chutney  Sauce 

18  apples  3  cupfuls  sugar 

18  ripe  tomatoes  2  tablespoonfuls  ground  gin- 

6  green  peppers  ger 

18  small    onions  2  tablespoonfuls   salt 

1 4  cupfuls   seeded  raisins  i  teaspoonful  cayenne  pepper 

3  cupfuls  vinegar  '  Juice  of  five  lemons 

Peel  the  tomatoes,  pare  the  apples  and  onions  and  re- 
move the  seeds  from  the  peppers.  Chop  finely  all  to- 
gether ;  add  the  other  ingredients  in  the  order  given,  and 
simmer  until  thick,  or  for  about  three  hours.  Store  hot  in 
sterilized  jars. 

Corn  and  Bean  Relish 

i  quart  of  corn  cut  from  the  3  chopped  green  peppers 

cob  2  cupfuls  sugar 

1  quart  shelled  fresh  lima  i  cupful  flour 
beans  i  cupful  salt 

2  cupfuls  diced  celery  I  teaspoonful  mustard 

4  cupfuls  finely-shaved  cab-  J  teaspoonful  cayenne  pepper 
bage  i  teaspoonful  of  turmeric 

1  cupful  chopped  onions  (optional) 

2  quarts  mild  vinegar 

Put  the  vegetables  into  the  preserving  kettle ;  add  half 
the  vinegar,  and  mix  the  balance  with  the  other  ingredi- 
ents ;  combine  and  simmer  for  an  hour,  or  until  the  beans 
are  soft.  If  old,  however,  they  should  be  parboiled  for 
fifteen  minutes  before  combining  with  the  other  vegeta- 
bles. Seal  hot  in  sterilized  jars. 

Pickled  Nasturtium  Seeds 

Nasturtium  seeds  may  be  pickled  in  either  a  sweet  or 
sour  vinegar.  Follow  the  directions  for  making  sweet  or 
sour  cucumber  pickles,  substituting  nasturtium  seeds  for 
the  cucumbers. 

Tomato  Catsup 

i  peck  of  ripe  tomatoes  ii  tablespoonfuls  whole 
4  cupfuls  mild  vinegar  cloves 

1  tablespoonful   whole   all-  i  cupful  sugar 
spice  i  clove  garlic 

2  tablespoonfuls  broken  cm-  3  tablespoonfuls    salt 
namon  sticks  i  tablespoonful  red  pepper 


;i6  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Wash  the  tomatoes,  cut  them  in  small  pieces  and  cook 
until  soft  and  pulpy,  with  the  garlic  chopped.  Then  sift. 
Add  the  spices,  tied  in  a  bit  of  cheesecloth,  and  the  vine- 
gar, together  with  the  seasonings,  and  simmer  until  the 
pulp  is  thick  —  about  four  hours.  Remove  the  spice 
bag.  Store  boiling  hot  in  sterilized  bottles  dipping  the 
tops  in  melted  paraffine. 

Chili  Sauce 

24  medium-sized  ripe  toma-  2  tablespoonfuls   whole 

toes  cloves 

7  green  peppers  2  tablespoonfuls   broken 
3  onions  stick  cinnamon 

2  tablespoonfuls   salt  2  cupfuls  vinegar 
£  cupful  brown  sugar 

Blanch  the  tomatoes  and  remove  the  blossom  ends. 
Chop  fine  with  the  peeled  onions  and  the  peppers,  from 
which  the  seeds  have  been  removed.  Put  in  a  preserving 
kettle  with  all  the  other  ingredients  (the  spices  tied  in 
cloth),  and  cook  slowly,  stirring  constantly  for  an  hour 
and  a  half,  or  until  thick.  Pour  hot  in  sterilized  jars  and 
seal. 

Herb  Vinegars 

Tarragon  vinegar.  Loosely  fill  a  pint  jar  with  fresh 
tarragon  leaves.  Cover  with  cider  vinegar,  put  on  the 
top,  let  stand  in  a  sunny  place  for  three  weeks  and  strain. 
A  few  peppercorns  may  be  added  if  desired. 

Mint  vinegar.  Follow  the  directions  given  for  making 
tarragon  vinegar,  substituting  mint  for  the  tarragon. 

Chervil  vinegar.  Follow  the  directions  given  for  mak- 
ing tarragon  vinegar,  substituting  chervil  for  the  tarra- 
gon. 

Celery  vinegar.  Follow  the  directions  given  for  mak- 
ing tarragon  vinegar,  substituting  celery  tips  for  the  tar- 
ragon. 

Nasturtium  vinegar.  Follow  the  directions  given  {or 
making  tarragon  vinegar,  substituting  a  cupful  of  nastur- 
tium seeds  for  the  tarragon. 

Garlic  vinegar.  Bruise  two  or  three  cloves  of  garlic 
and  follow  the  directions  given  for  tarragon  vinegar. 


CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING       717 

DRYING  OR  EVAPORATING  FRUITS  AND 
VEGETABLES 

Equipment 

Vegetables  and  fruits  can  be  dried  in  the  oven,  in  trays, 
or  racks  over  the  kitchen  stove,  or  in  a  specially  con- 
structed dryer,  for  there  are  several  on  the  market  which 
give  satisfactory  results. 

The  small  cook-stove  dryers,  or  evaporators,  are  like 
ovens  and  are  usually  made  of  galvanized  sheet  iron,  or  of 
wood  and  galvanized  iron  in  combination.  They  are  suit- 
able for  use  on  the  top  of  an  ordinary  wood  or  coal 
range,  or  a  kerosene  stove.  They  are  equipped  with  a 
series  of  small  trays  on  which  fruits  or  vegetables  are 
placed  after  the  preliminary  preparation  for  drying. 

In  case  a  large  amount  is  to  be  dried  in  a  day,  as,  for 
instance,  ten  bushels  of  fruit,  a  portable  out-door  evapo- 
rator is  especially  convenient.  Or,  a  home-made  dry  kiln 
can  be  cheaply  and  easily  constructed  of  brick  and  stone. 

A  home-made,  cook-stove  dryer  is  inexpensive  and 
easy  to  make.  The  dimensions  should  be  24  by  16  inches 
and  the  height  36  inches.  A  galvanized  sheet-iron  base 
6  inches  high  should  be  made  according  to  these  dimen- 
sions. This  should  flare  slightly  towards  the  bottom  and 
should  have  two  small  openings  for  ventilation  in  each  of 
the  four  sides.  A  box-like  frame  30  inches  high,  made  of 
i  or  i^  inch  strips  of  wood,  should  be  fitted  to  the  base,  the 
two  sides  being  braced  with  ij  inch  strips  of  wood, 
placed  at  intervals  of  3  inches.  These  form  racks  on 
which  the  trays  may  rest  in  the  dryer.  The  frame  should 
then  be  covered  with  tin  or  galvanized  sheet  iron,  which 
may  be  tacked  to  the  wooden  strips  of  the  frame.  If 
more  convenient,  thin  boards  may  be  used  instead  of  tin 
or  sheet  iron.  The  door  should  have  small  hinges,  a 
latch  or  hook  and  should  open  wide. 

The  bottom  of  the  dryer  should  be  made  of  perforated 
galvanized  sheet  iron.  Two  inches  above  this  bottom  a 
solid  sheet  of  galvanized  iron,  three  inches  less  in  length 
and  width,  should  be  rested  on  two  wires,  fastened  to  the 
sides  of  the  dryer.  This  will  prevent  the  direct  heat 
from  coming  in  contact  with  the  product,  allows  a  free 
circulation  of  heat  and  acts  as  a  radiator. 


7i8  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

A  dryer  of  this  size  will  hold  eight  trays,  21  by  15 
inches.  The  frame  should  be  made  of  one-inch  strips  of 
wood  on  which  galvanized  screen  wire  should  be  tacked. 
The  reason  that  these  trays  are  not  so  large  as  the  dryer 
is  because  it  is  necessary  to  have  currents  of  heated  air 
circulating  over  the  product  as  well  as  through  it.  And 
to  produce  this  effect,  the  first  tray  must  be  placed  three 
inches  aboye  the  radiator  and  pushed  to  the  back,  leaving 
a  space  in  front.  The  next  tray  is  even  with  the  front, 
leaving  a  three-inch  space  in  the  back,  and  the  other  trays 
alternate  in  the  same  way.  A  ventilator  should  be  left  in 
the  top  of  the  dryer  so  that  the  moist  air  may  pass  away 
through  it. 

If  the  drying  is  to  be  done  in  the  oven,  convenient  trays 
can  be  made  of  galvanized  wire  screen,  with  the  edges 
bent  up  an  inch.  Or,  trays  of  this  type  may  be  pur- 
chased at  a  reasonable  figure  in  sizes  to  fit  all  standard  gas 
range  ovens.  As  many  trays  as  possible  should  be  used 
in  an  oven  at  one  time,  and  if  a  gas,  or  kerosene,  stove 
is  being  used,  an  extra  tray  or  two  may  be  placed  on 
rests  on  top  of  the  oven  as  well. 

A  very  simple  device  for  drying,  which  is  still  in  use 
in  some  districts,  consists  of  a  good-sized  wooden  frame, 
about  as  large  as  the  top  of  the  coal  or  wood  stove. 
After  being  covered  with  a  galvanized  screen,  it  is  inverted 
and  suspended  from  the  ceiling  above  the  stove,  by  means 
of  ropes  and  pulleys.  The  vegetable  or  fruit  is  pre- 
pared, put  on  the  screen  and,  when  the  fire  is  very  hot, 
the  rack  is  pulled  up,  away  from  the  intense  heat,  and 
when  the  fire  is  slow,  it  should  be  lowered. 

GENERAL  METHODS  FOR  DRYING  OR  EVAPO- 
RATING VEGETABLES 

Drying  or  evaporating  may  be  accomplished  entirely 
by  artificial  heat,  or  by  a  combination  of  sun  and  artificial 
heat.  The  former  method  is  to  be  preferred  as  the 
weather  is  not  always  dependable.  The  reason  that  ar- 
tificial heat  is  used  in  conjunction  with  the  sunshine,  is 
so  that  all  insect  eggs  may  be  killed  before  the  product  is 
stored.  The  sun-dried  products  are  darker  in  color,  but 
have  as  good  flavor. 


CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING       719 

The  vegetables  must  be  absolutely  fresh,  young  and 
tender;  they  should  be  thoroughly  washed  and  cleaned. 
Only  well-scoured  knives  should  be  used  in  paring  or 
cutting. 

All  vegetables  should  be  blanched,  as  in  canning  by 
the  new  method,  that  is  to  say,  they  are  prepared,  placed 
in  a  wire  basket,  or  cheesecloth  bag,  plunged  into  boiling 
water,  for  a  given  length  of  time,  removed,  drained  and 
dried  on  towels,  or  by  exposing  them  to  the  sun  and  air. 
This  process  insures  a  thorough  cleaning,  removes  strong 
odors  and  flavors,  softens  and  loosens  the  fiber  and  al- 
lows the  moisture  to  evaporate  more  quickly  and  evenly. 
At  the  same  time,  the  albuminous  matter  has  been  coagu- 
lated, thus  hindering  the  escape  of  flavors. 

The  vegetable  should  then  be  spread  in  a  thin  layer  on 
the  trays.  The  temperature  should  be  started  at  110°  F. 
This  can  best  be  determined  by  an  oven  thermometer 
which  can  be  secured  at  low  cost.  However,  if  one  is 
not  at  hand,  110°  F.  may  be  secured  in  most  gas  ovens 
by  having  the  gas  lighted  for  about  two  minutes.  In 
most  kerosene  ovens,  in  about  the  same  time,  and  in  a 
coal  oven  by  having  a  very  low  fire  and  the  oven  door  a 
little  more  than  half  open. 

The  temperature  should  be  gradually  increased  to  145° 
F.  The  length  of  time  required  for  drying  vegetables 
varies  with  the  size  and  the  amount  of  water  they  con- 
tain. Generally  the  process  takes  from  two  and  a  half 
to  seven  hours,  most  vegetables  being  completed  in  the 
shorter  time.  The  products  are  dry  when  they  are  brit- 
tle. 

The  vegetables  should  be  stirred,  or  turned,  during  the 
drying,  trays  should  be  moved  from  the  lower  part  of  the 
oven  or  dryer  to  the  top  to  equalize  the  heat,  and  as  the 
vegetables  are  dried  two  or  more  trays  can  often  be  com- 
bined, leaving  space  for  a  fresh  lot,  and  making  possible 
economy  of  both  time  and  heat.  If  the  oven  is  used,  the 
door  should  be  left  slightly  open. 

STORING   DRIED   VEGETABLES    AND   FRUITS 

The  best  container  is  a  tin  box,  pail,  glass  jar  or  can, 
all  fitted  with  tight  covers ;  lard  pails,  baking  powder 


720  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

cans,  cocoa  cans  and  the  like  should  be  treasured  for  this 
purpose.  In  case  there  are  not  enough  cans  for  storing, 
small  paper  bags  may  be  used,  enough  being  put  into 
each  bag  for  one  or  two  meals.  This  obviates  opening 
large  quantities.  The  bags  should  be  labeled  —  the  up- 
per parts  then  being  twisted  to  form  necks  which  should 
be  tied  tight  with  string.  To  make  the  bags  practically 
moisture-  and  insect-proof,  paint  them  all  over  with  a 
coat  of  melted  paraffine  applied  with  a  brush,  or  frayed- 
end  of  a  rope. 

These  bags  should  be  stored  in  a  large  tin  con- 
tainer with  a  tight  fitting  cover,  as  a  cracker  can,  large 
lard  pail,  or  flour  can.  Paraffine-coated  paper  containers 
may  be  used  and  stored  as  the  bags.  Those  who  are  for- 
tunate enough  to  have  left  over  some  of  the  prepared 
paper  cooking  bags  in  vogue  some  years  ago  will  find 
them  invaluable  for  this  purpose.  In  this  case,  the  tops 
should  be  folded  over,  twice  fastened  with  clips  and 
paraffined,  the  bags  then  being  stored  as  directed. 

On  first  thought  it  may  seem  that  the  storage  room 
needed  for  dried  products  will  prove  a  serious  problem  in 
small  houses,  but  when  it  is  realized  that  a  hundred 
pounds  of  fresh  vegetables  will  average  but  ten  pounds 
when  dried,  the  matter  takes  care  of  itself,  and  the 
woman  who  has  no  room  to  store  cans  of  fruits  and 
vegetables  will  be  able  to  provide  food  for  her  family 
through  this  condensing  method. 

All  dried  products  should  be  examined  occasionally  to 
make  sure  that  no  insect  life  has  developed.  Upon  the 
slightest  appearance  of  insects  the  product  should  be 
spread  in  thin  layers  in  the  sun  until  the  insects  disap- 
pear; then  heated  to  a  temperature  of  160°  F.,  and  care- 
fully re-stored.  They  should  be  allowed  to  stand  a  while 
to  absorb  a  little  moisture  before  being  stored. 

Dried  Wax  or  String  Beans 

All  varieties  "of  string  beans  can  be  dried.  Wash  and 
string  them  carefully.  Young  and  tender  beans  should 
be  kept  whole;  those  that  are  full-grown  being  cut  in 
lengths  up  to  an  inch  rather  than  snapped.  They  should 
then  be  blanched  six  minutes  for  tender  beans,  ten 
minutes  for  mature  beans,  in  boiling  water  containing  a 


CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING       721 

half  teaspoonful  of  soda  to  the  gallon.  Finish  accord- 
ing to  the  general  method  for  drying  vegetables,  starting 
the  temperature  at  110°  F.  and  raising  gradually  to  145° 
F. 

Dried  Green  Lima  Beans 

Shell  the  beans,  wash  and  blanch  them  as  described 
from  five  to  ten  minutes  according  to  maturity.  Finish 
according  to  the  general  method  for  drying  vegetables, 
keeping  the  temperature  the  same  as  for  string  beans. 

Dried  Garden  Peas 

Shell  and  blanch  the  peas  as  described  from  three  to 
five  minutes  and  finish  according  to  the  general  method 
for  drying  vegetables,  keeping  the  temperature  as  for 
string  beans. 

'    Sweet  Corn 

Gather  young  and  tender  corn,  remove  the  husks  and 
silk  and  boil  or  steam  it  on  the  cob  from  eight  to  ten 
minutes  to  set  the  milk.  In  boiling,  use  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt  to  four  quarts  of  water.  Drain  well.  Cut  the  corn 
from  the  cob  with  a  sharp  knife,  only  half  way  down  to 
the  cob.  Scrape  out  the  remainder  of  the  grain,  being 
careful  not  to  include  any  of  the  hull.  Dry  as  directed 
in  string  beans. 

If  field  corn  is  used,  select  plump,  roasting  ears. 

To  dry  corn  in  the  sun,  prepare  it  as  directed,  diy  it 
for  fifteen  minutes  in  the  oven,  completing  the  process  in 
the  sun.  It  should  then  be  heated  to  160°  F.  to  kill  any 
insect  eggs. 

Dried  Carrots,  Parsnips,  Kalarabi,  Celeriac  and  Salsify 
Clean,  scrape  or  pare  the  vegetables  and  slice  to  one- 
eighth  inch  thickness.  Blanch  as  described  for  six 
minutes  and  complete  the  process  according  to  the  gen- 
eral method  for  drying  vegetables,  starting  the  tempera- 
ture at  110°  F.  and  raising  it  gradually  to  150°  F. 

Dried  Onions  and  Leek 

Wash  the  onions  and  peel  and  slice  them  in  quarter- 
inch  slices  holding  them  under  water.  Blanch  as  de- 
scribed for  five  minutes  in  boiling  water  and  complete  ac- 
cording to  the  general  method  of  drying  vegetables,  be- 


722  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

ginning  at  110°  R,  and  raising  the  temperature  gradually 
to  140°  F. 

Leek  should  be  cut  in  quarter-inch  strips. 

Dried  Beets 

Wash  the  beets,  cut  off  the  tops  to  within  an  inch  of 
the  beet  and  boil  them  with  the  skins  on  until  three- 
fourths  done,  about  forty-five  minutes  for  young  beets, 
then  dip  in  cold  water,  peel  and  slice  to  one-fourth  inch 
thickness  and  complete  according  to  the  general  method 
for  drying  vegetables,  starting  at  110°  F.,  and  gradually 
increasing  the  temperature  to  150°  F. 

Dried  Pumpkin,  Summer  Squash,  and  Celery 

Cut  the  pumpkin  or  squash  in  half-inch  strips  and  the 
celery  in  one-inch  strips.  Blanch  as  described  three 
minutes  and  finish  according  to  the  general  method  for 
drying  vegetables,  starting  them. at  110°  F.  and  gradu- 
ally increasing  to  150°  F. 

Dried  Herbs,  Celery  Tips,  Parsley,  Etc. 

Wash  well  and  dry  in  the  sun  or  in  the  dryer ;  blanch- 
ing is  not  necessary.  All  herbs  and  mushroom  trim- 
mings may  be  kept  in  this  way. 

Method  for  Drying  or  Evaporating  Fruits 
In  very  dry  climates  fruits  may  be  evaporated  entirely 
in  the  sun,  although  this  causes  considerable  discolora- 
tion. For  home  use,  fruit  may  be  dried  in  the  hot  sun 
until  the  surface  begins  to  wrinkle  and  may  then  be  fin- 
ished in  the  dryer,  according  to  the  general  methods  de- 
scribed in  evaporating  vegetables. 

Select  only  fresh  ripe  fruit,  wash  it,  prepare  as  neces- 
sary and  spread  it  upon  the  drying  trays  which  have  been 
lined  with  wrapping  paper  or  cheesecloth  to  prevent  any 
possibility  of  chemical  action  between  the  fruit  acids  and 
the  metal.  The  "ability  to  judge  accurately  when  fruit 
has  reached  the  proper  condition  for  removal  from  the 
dryer  can  be  gained  only  by  experience.  It  should  be  so 
dry  that  it  is  impossible  to  press  water  out  of  the  freshly 
cut  ends  of  the  pieces  and  so  that  none  of  the  natural 
grain  of  the  fruit  will  show  when  it  is  broken.  It 


CANNING,  PRESERVING  AND  PICKLING       723 

should  be  leathery  and  pliable,  but  not  so  dry  that  it  will 
snap  or  crackle.  Cool  the  fruit  quickly  as  otherwise  it 
will  shrivel  and  look  unattractive. 

Dried  Berries  Of  All  Kinds 

Wash  the  berries,  free  them  from  leaves  and  stems, 
handling  them  carefully  to  prevent  bruising.  Drain 
them  on  towels,  or  expose  to  the  summer  air  for  a  few 
minutes  to  remove  the  surface  moisture,  then  spread  in 
thin  layers  on  the  trays  and  dry  according  to  the  general 
method  described  in  drying  vegetables,  raising  the  tem- 
perature gradually  from  110°  F.  to  125°  F.  during  the 
first  two  hours.  When  a  considerable  portion  of  mois- 
ture has  evaporated  the  temperature  may  be  brought 
higher  than  130°  F.,  but  if  this  is  done  before,  there  will 
be  loss  of  juice  by  dripping  and  consequent  loss  of  flavor 
and  color.  Finish  drying  the  berries  at  140°  F.  for  two 
or  three  hours  longer. 

Dried  Cherries 

Wash  but  do  not  stone  the  cherries.  Remove  the  sur- 
face moisture  as  directed  in  dried  berries,  spread  in  thin 
layers  on  the  trays  and  finish  according  to  the  general 
method  for  drying  vegetables  starting  at  110°  F.  and  in- 
creasing to  150°  F.  It  will  take  about  four  hours. 

Dried  Plums 

Select  good-sized  medium-ripe  plums.  Pour  over 
boiling  water,  cover  and  let  stand  twenty  minutes. 
Drain,  remove  the  surface  moisture  as  in  berries  and 
finish  according  to  the  general  method  for  drying  vege- 
tables, starting  at  110°  F.,  and  increasing  gradually  to 
150°  F. 

Apples  and  Pears 

Pare,  core  and  cut  the  fruit  in  "eighths,  or  core  and 
slice  in  rings.  Dip  as  fast  as  a  small  amount  is  prepared 
f6r  a  minute  in  a  cold  salt  bath  to  prevent  discoloration, 
using  an  ounce  of  salt  to  a  gallon  of  water.  Remove  the 
surface  moisture  as  in  berries  and  finish  according  to 
the  general  method  for  drying  vegetables,  starting  at 
110°  F.,  and  increasing  to  150°  F.  The  pears  may  be 
steamed  ten  minutes  before  drying. 


724  MRS.  ALLEN'S  COOK  BOOK 

Dried  Peaches 

Peaches  are  usually  dried  unpeeled,  although  they  may 
be  blanched  and  the  skins  removed  if  desired.  In  either 
case,  cut  them  in  halves,  remove  the  pits,  lay  in  the  trays, 
pit-side  up  and  finish  according  to  the  method  given  for 
dried  vegetables,  and  at  the  same  temperature  as  apples. 


INDEX 


Acid, 

foods,  2,  15-19 

tannic,  133 

Acorns,  Chocolate,  653 
Ade, 

Cranberry,  142 

Loganberry,  139 

Orange,  139 

Syrup  for,  138-139 

Raspberry,  139 

Rhubarb,  140 
Albumin, 

Milk,  683 

Water,  683 
Almond  Biscuits,  213 

Ring,  209 
Almonds, 

Canoe  Club,  650 

To  Salt,  658 
Aluminum    Utensils,   76 
Anchovy    Paste,    233 
Angelica,   To   Prepare,  621 
Appetizers,  4,  233-239 
Apple  Butter,  706-707 

Chutney,  714 

Cups  with  Rice,  150 

Dumplings,  Baked,  524 
Steamed,  525 

Rice,  521 

Sauce,  Baked,  150 

Strudel,  641 
Apples, 

as  food,  3,   16-18 

Baked  in  Maple  Syrup,  150 

Broiled,   149 

Coddled,  5,  150 

Crab,    Stewed    Pickled,    713- 

7M 

Cranberry  Style,  151 
Dried,  723 
Jellied,  547-548 
West  India  Baked,   149 
with  Baked  Pork  Chops,  337 


Apples,  continued 

with  Cheese,  149 
Apricot  Jam,   Dried,   158 
Apricots, 

Crystallized,   656 

Dried  Jellied,  548 
Artichokes, 

French  or  Globe,  420 

Jerusalem,  420 

Omelet  of,   182 
Asparagus, 

Boiled,    Plain,   437 

Cooked  like  Peas,  437 

Creamed   Canned,  437 

Food  value  of,  15 

Loaf,  438 

Shortcake,  439 

Timbales    of,    Canned,    438- 
439 

Vinaigrette,  437~438 

with  Parmesan  Cheese,  438 
Scrambled  Eggs,  176 

B 
Bacon, 

Baked,  362 

Food  value  of,  2,   14 

Fried,  361-362  . 

Fried,  Liver  and,  352 

How  to  Buy,  321 

Liver  and,  352 

with  Scrambled  Eggs,  176 

with  String  Beans,  422 

with  Sweet  Potatoes,  407 
Balance, 

Principles  of,  27 

in  the  Luncheon,  46-47 
Ballast   in    the    Diet,   6-7,    15- 

19,  30. 

Banana  Bavarian,  553    v 
Banana  Cup,  153 
Bananas, 

Baked   with   Raisins,    146 

Baked  with  Cranberry  Sauce, 
146 


725 


728 


INDEX 


Bread,  continued 
Jelly,  214-215 
Making  of,   188-190,   194 
Mixer,   192-193 
Nut,  199 
Proportions  of  Loaf  of,  193- 

194 

Prune,  230 
Pudding, 
and  Jam,  215 
Eggless,  215 
Quick,   218-232 
Entire   Wheat    Meal,   229- 

230 

Graham,  230    • 
Nut,   230-231 
Rice,  191,  197 
Rich,  2 
Rye,  191 

Unkneaded,.  197 
Savory,   213 
Salt-Rising,   195 
Spiced,   198 
Sponge,  193 

Stale,  Ways  to  Use,  209-217 
Steam   Cooking  of,   115 
Steaming,  219 
Swedish  Sweet,  200 
Tomato    and    Cheese    Stew, 

213 

Varieties  'of,   190-191 
Yeast,    188-217 
Brown,  200-201 
White,  195,  197-198 
Breakfast,  56-59 

Children's,  44-45 
Broiling,   I,   n,  271 

Pan,  324 
Broth,   10 
Beef,  679-680 
Chicken,  681 
Egg,  680 
Fish,  263 
Food  value  of,  2 
Brownies,  Fudge,  6n 
Brussels  Sprouts,    - 
au  Gratin,  420 
with  Chestnuts,  418 
Bulk  of  food,  2,  5,  7,  26 
"  Bunny   Hug,"  670 
Buns,  Hot  Cross,  203 
Buying,   on  Basis  of  Calories, 
322-324 


Butter, 

Apple,    706-707 
as  seasoning,  31 
Chives,  500 
Flavored,  499-500 
Food  value  of,  3,  5-6,  12 
Grape,   706-707 
in  the  Diet,  38-39 
Lemon,  499 
Lobster,  500 
Peach,  706-707 
Pimento,  500 
Plum,  706-707 

Euince,  706-707 
ardine,  500 
Tomato,  707 
Watercress,  499 
Butter  Cakes,  New  York  Style, 

222 

Buttercups,  654 
Buttermilk,  2,  18 
Bread  Muffins,  216 


Cabbage,  2,  16,  30 
au  Gratin,  434 
Creamed,  433 

with  Peppers,  433 
Devilled,  435 
Hot  Slaw,  435-436 
in  Diet,  38 
Quick,  433 
Red,   Sour,  436 

Stewed,  436 
Rolls,  435 
Sour  (Dutch),  434 
Steamed  Stuffed,  435 
Stewed  with  Dumplings,  434 
Caffein,    134-135 
Cake,  2,  12,  14,  27,  583-606 
Almond  Loaf,  601 
Angel,   591 

(Cooked    Syrup),    591-592 
Apple  Sauce,  602 
Apricot,  601 
Baking,  586 
Banana,  602 
Blueberry,  601 
Caramel,  603-604 
Cheese,  German,  642 
Choice    of    Ingredients    for, 
586-587 


INDEX 


729 


Cake,  continued 
Coffee,  2,  12 
Corn,  229 

Sour   Milk   Spider,  228- 

229 
Chocolate,  600 

Eggless,  606 

Fudge,  600 
Cream,  603 

Chocolate,  604 

Country,   603 
Date,  607 
Devil's  Food,  600 
Fruit, 

Inexpensive  Dark,  598 

Light,  59&-599 
Gold,  595 

Small,  609 
Hallowe'en,  608 
Ice  Cream  Nut,  594-595 
Icing,  620-621 
Johnny,  Eggless,  226 
Layer  and   Loaf,  592-606 
Lemon,   Filled,  605 
Little  Mistletoe,  609 

Partridge    Berry,    609-610 

Violet,  608  ' 
Loaf,  593 
Making,   583-587 
Maple,  603-604 
Marshmallow,  603-604,  608 
Milk,  Hot,  598 
Nut  and  Raisin,  597^598 
One-Egg,  602-603 
Orange,  606 
Orange-Date,  604 
Peach,  605 
Pineapple,  605-606 
Pound,  597 

Fruit,  597 

Prune  and  Nut,  594 
Putting  into  a  Pan,  585-586 
Putting  Together,  584-585 
Raspberry,   602 
Ribbon,  596-597 
St.  Valentine's,  596 
Silver,   595-596 
Snow  Basket,  590 
Spice, 

Buttermilk,  593 

Coffee,  594 

Marble.    593 

Quick,  592 


Cake,  continued 
Sponge, 
Angel,  592 
Butter,  611 
Caramel,  589 
Everyday,  588 
Plain,  590 
Swedish,   590 
Strawberry,  596 
Tea  Crumb,  215-216 
Utensils  for,  583-584 
Walnut,  595 

Cream,  595 
Wedding,  595 
White,    Delicate,   599-600 
Without  Shortening,  587-592 
Cakes,  Cup,  607-619 
Currant,  609 
Honey,  608 
Maple,  610 
One-Egg,  607 
Cakes,  Griddle, 

Bread  Crumb,  223-224 
Butter,  222 
Cooking,  219-220 
Plain,  223 

Cakes,  Little,  607-619 
Calcium,  30 
Calla  Lilies,  238 
Calories, 

as  a  Basis  of  Food  Values, 

19-26 
Buying  on  a  Basis  of,  322- 

.324 

Definition  of,  19-20 
Canapes,  233-236 

Crab,  234 

Caviar,  egg,  234 

Ham,  potted,  234 

Lobster,  234 

Mushroom,    236 

Oyster,  235-236 

Peanut,   235 
Butter,  235 

Salmon,  Smoked,  234 

Tomato,  235 
Candy,  2,  12-13 

Making  of,  644-660 

Packing  of,  645-646 

Peppermint,  4 

Pulled  Molasses,  654 

Using  Thermometer  for,  646 

Wintergreen,  4 


730 


INDEX 


Canning,  687-724 

Directions  for,  687-688 

Fish,  699 

Fruit  Juices,  707-708 

Fruits,  692-695 

Meats,   697-698 

Outfits,  687-688 

Powders,  691 

Soups,  695-697 

Time  Table  for,  692 

Vegetables,  690-692 
Cantaloupe  Cups,  154 
Caraway  Seed,  72 
Carbohydrates,  2-4,  22-23,  26 

Place  in  Menu,  4,  11-13 

Preparation  of,  4,  11-13 
Carbon  Dioxide,  6 
Carpels,  145 
Carrots,  12,  15,  30 

Creamed,  432 

Dried,   721 

en   Casserole,  432-433 

Glace,   432 

Savory,  432 

Straws,   433 

with  Butter  Sauce,  433 
Casein,  n,  see  Cheese 
Casserole,  En,  326 

Beef,  332-333 
Curried,  333 
..Short  Ribs  of,  333 

Beef-Balls,  336 

Carrots,  432-433 

Chicken,  Plain,  369 

Combinations,  109 

Cooking,  10,  105-111 

Dishes,  8 

Fruits,  no-ill 

Halibut,  274-275 
Smoked,  208 

Ham,  with  Vegetables,  440 

Lamb,  347 

Left-Overs,   108-109 

Liver,   353 

Meat,  326 

Menus,  107 

Mutton  Chops,  "346 

Oranges,  145 

Pork,  356-357,  381 

Salmon,   Broiled,  295-296 

Seasonings  for,  109-110 

Squirrel,  378 

Thickening,  108 


Casserole,  En,  continued 

Time  of  Cookery,  106-107 

Utensils  for,  105-106 

Veal,  Brown,  349 

Vegetables,    1 10 
Catsup,  Tomato,  715-716 
Cauliflower,   15,  30 

au  Gratin,  419 

Baked,  417 
and  Mushrooms,  417 

Creamed,  419 

Fried  Flowers  of,  419-420 

Greens,  419 

Hollandaise,  419 

Pudding,  418 

with  Diced  Turnips,  417-418 
Caviar,  233 
Celeriac,  428 

Brown,  428 

Dried,   721 
Celery,  37,  215,  233 

and  Cheese  au  Gratin,  421 

Bouillon,  248 

Club  Style,  420 

Creamed,  421 
on  Ham  Toast,  421 

Curls,  421     • 

Dried,   722 

Escalloped,  with  Cheese,  671 

Fried  Tips  of,  422 

Jelly,  422 

Sticks,    Roquefort,  672 

Sardine,  238-239 
Cellulose,  18 
Cereals, 

2,  6,  12-13,  18,  159-169 

Bread  and  Nut,  210 

Bread  Breakfast,  210 

Cooking  of,  12 

Denatured,    16 

General  Directions  for  Cook- 
ing, 159-160 
Chafing  Dish,  123-127 

Menus   for,   125-126 

Serving  Meals  with,  126-127 

Uses  for,   124-125 

Utensils   for,   123-124 
Charlotte,  539-541 

Pineapple  Bread,  531 

Russe, 

Apple,  540-541 
Blackberry,   540 
Chocolate  Filling,  540 


INDEX 


731 


Charlotte,  continued 

Pineapple,  541 

Plain  Filling,  540 

Raspberry,  541 
Checkerberries,  452 

Crystallized,  657 
Cheese,  2,  7^8,  31,  73,  661-673 
and  Bread  Pudding,  212 

Lima  Bean  Roll,  671 

Tomato   and   Bread    Stew, 

213 

as  Meat  Substitute,  661-662 
Baked,  668-669 
Balls  and  Prunes,  667 

Moulded,  672 
Cookery  of,  u,  661-662 
Cottage,  672 
Crackers,   Rich,  671 
Cream,  2,  31 
Custard  Macaroni,  668 
Digestibility  of,  n,  661-662 
Dreams,  670 
Dutch,  672 
Escalloped,  5 

with  Celery,  671 
Food  value  of,  661-662 
Kinds  of,  662 
Menus  with,  663-666 
Milk,  Full,  2 
Moulds,  670 
Omelet,  181 

Parmesan   on   Canned  As- 
paragus, 438 
Pastries,  642 
Pimento,  672 
Pudding,  English,  667 
Puffs,  668 
Sauce,  668 
Service  of,  666-667 
Souffle,  184 
Sticks,  642 
Toast,  668,  670-671 
with  Apples,  149 

Scrambled  Eggs,  176 
Chemistry, 
of  Cookery,  1-26 

Food,   1-26 
Cherries, 
Dried,  723 
Home-Made    Maraschino, 

7'i4 

Preserved,  703-704 
Sweet  Pickled,  714 


Chestnuts, 

Bisque  of,  261 

Browned,  418 
with    Mushrooms,   418-419 

Puree,  419 

with  Brussels  Sprouts,  418 
Chicken,  322,  366-372 

a  la  King,  387 

a  la  Martin,  386 

and  Celery  in  Rolls,  386 

Boned  a  la  Royale,  371 

Bouillon,  Iced,  248-249 

Broiled,  8,  367 

Broth,  681 

Canned,  698 

Casserole,  Plain,  369 

Southern    Style,    369-370 
Spanish,  370 

Creamed   with  Asparagus, 
386 

Fricassee,  368-369 

Fried,  369 

Glace,  Cold,  371-372 

Italian,   371 

Klopps,  385-386 

Loaf,  384-385 

Maryland,    370-371 

Minced,  385 

Mousse  Loaf,  372 

Old-Fashioned   Pot   Pie,  368 

Pot  Pourrie,  370 

Potted,  368 

Roast,  366-367 
under  Gas,  367 

Savory,  385 

Souffle,   186 

Steamed,  366 

Stew    with    Dumplings,   367- 
368 

Stuffing  a  la  Royale,  371 

Wiggle,  384 
Chilaly,  670 
Children, 

Coffee  for,   135 

Food    Requirements    of,    22- 

23 

Meals  for,  40-49 
Chili  Con  Carne,  336-337 

Sauce,  4,  716 
China,  Choosing,  117 
Chives  Butter,  500 
Chocolate,   136 

Acorns,  653 


732 


INDEX 


Chocolate,  continued 

Creams   and   Confections, 
648-649 

Creole,   136 

Dipping,  647-648 

Frozen,  568 

Hot,  136 

in  Diet,  33 

Maple,  649 

Marshmallows,  649 

Sweet,  2,  14,  33 
Chops, 

Baked  Pork  with  Apples,  337 

Broiled  in  Paper,  684 

Fish,  275 

Halibut,  308-309 

Lamb,  8,  343-345 

Mutton,  346 

Oyster,  278 

Pork,  321 

Veal,  Breaded,  351 
Chop  Suey,  383 
Chow  Chow,  112 
Chowder,  265-268 

Codfish,  267-268 
Salt,  268 

Corn,  266 

Green     and     Lima     Bean, 
267 

Mexican,  267 

Salmon,  265 

Vegetable,  266 

White  Kidney  Bean,  266 
Christmas  Joys,  656-657 

Loaf,  649-650 
Chutney,  Apple,  714-715 

Tomato,  715 
Cider,  68 
Cinnamon, 

Ground,  72 

Loaf,  198 

Noodles,  166 

Stick,  72 
Clams,  233 

a  la  Creme,  282 

Bouillon  of,  680- 

Canned,  699 

Cocktail,  237 

Saute  on  Toast,  282 

Savory,  281 
Cleansers,  2 
Cloves,  Whole,  71 
Cocktails,  233-236 


Cocktails,  continued 

Aspic,  239 

Clam,  237 
and  Grapefruit,  237 

Crab  Flake,  236 

Cucumber,  239 

Fenway,  649 

Fish,  233 

Fruit,  151-154 

Grapefruit,   239 

Orange  Mint,  153 

Oyster,  236 

Scallop,  237 

Tuna  Fish,  238 

Vegetable,   233,   239 
Cocoa,  2,  136 
Cocoanut,  Squares,  610-611 

Jumbles,  612 

Kisses,  639 

Rusks,  203 
Codfish,  8 

Baked  Crumbed,  274 
Fillets,  274 
Slices  of,  275 

Batter  Cakes,  295-296 

Breaded,  275-276 

Brown  on  Biscuit,  292-293 

Salt, 

Cooking  of,  292 
Creamed,  293 
with  Hard-Cooked  Eggs, 

.  293 

Fried,  294 

Hash-Browned,  294 

Souffle  of,   187 

with    Baked    Eggs,   294 
Coffee,  2,  5,  18,  134-135 
After-Dinner,  135 
Bavarian,  552 
Black,  31 

Cake,  German,  208 
Cereal,  135-136 
Drops,  651 
Egg  Shake,  138 
Iced,  137 
Percolator,    135 
Powdered,  135 
Sponge,  546 
Souffle,  187 
Taster's  Method,  135 
Compote, 
Apricot,  520 
Peach,  520 


INDEX 


733 


Compote,  continued 

Pineapple,  520 
Cold  Dip,  688 
Cold  Pack,  688 
Condiments,  4 
Conserves,  699-710 

and  Cheese  Sticks,  672-673 

Cranberry,  703 

Fig,  703, 
Consomme,   246 

Jellied  Canned,  248 
Cookery  of 

Custards,  9 

Desserts,  9 

Eggs,  9 

Fish,  9-10 

Protein,  8-9 

Vegetables,  n,  404-412 
Cookies,       » 

Bran,  617-618 

Honey  Drop,  614 

Molasses  Drop,  614 

Olive  Oil  Drop,  615 

Peanut  Oil  Drop,  615 

Scotch  Nut,  617 

Seed,  Old-Time,  618 

Sugar,  Plain,  618 

Thin  Chocolate,  613 
Cooking  by  Steam,  111-115 

Breads,  115 

Desserts,  115 

Fish,  114-115 

Fruits,  114 

Meats,   114 

Utensils  for,  111-113 

Vegetables,  115 
Coriander,  73 
Corn,  2,  12,  15 

Bread,  Suet,  231 

Green,  224-225 

Omelet,  182 

Sweet,  12 

Dried,  721 
Cornmeal,  15,  18,  224 

and  Wheat  Bread,  206 

and  White  Bread,  198 

Gruel,  679 

Muffins,  206 
Corn  Oysters,  425 
Corn  Ramekins,  425 
Corn    Starch,    12, 

see  Puddings 
Cowslips,  30,  450 


Crabs, 

Boiling,  288 

Devilled,  288 

Dressing,  288 

Fried  Soft  Shell,  289 

Meat  of,  Flakes,  288-289 

Timbales,  289 
Crackers,  12 

Cornmeal,  231-232 

Marshmallow,  613 

Whole  Wheat,  7 
Cranberry, 

Ade,   142 

and  Raisin  Tart,  636-637 

Dumplings,  526 

in  Diet,  37 

Punch,   141 
Cranberries,  655-656 
Cream,  2,  12,  33 

Bavarian,  2,  14,  542 

Beating,  560 

Frozen  Whipped,  567 
Ginger  Whipped,  567 
Peach   Whipped,   570 

Honey  Whipped,  561 

in  Diet,  33 

Light,  5 

Sour,  Omelet,  180 

Spanish,  545,  686 
Caramel,  545 

Whipped,  Flavoring,  560-561 
Creams,   General   Directions 

for,  542 

Crisps,  Afternoon,  613 
Croquettes,   14-15 

Banana,  310 

Cheese,  307 

Chicken,  309 

Corn,  306 

Egg,  307 

Egging  and   Crumbing,  303 

General  Recipe  for,  305 

Lentil,  307 

Meat  and  Apple,  306 

Nut,  7 

Oyster,  308 

Potato,  305 
and  Cheese,  305 
and  Ham,  305 
and  Nut,  305 
en  Surprise,  305 
Sweet,  306 

Peach,  Dried,  and  Rice,  310 


734 


INDEX 


Croquettes,  continued 
Rice,  Plain,  309 

Sweet,  310 
Salmon,  308 
Shad  Roe,  308 
Shaping,  304-305 
Sweetbread,  306 
Tuna  Fish,  307-308 
Veal,  309 

Croustades,  Bread,  216-217 
Croutons,  217 

Crumbs,   7,   209-210 
Cucumbers,  2,  15 
Baked  Stuffed,  428 
Creamed,  427-428 
Fried,  427 

Cupful,  To  Measure,  131 
Cups,  Fruit,  151-154 
Banana,  153 
Cantaloupe,  154 
Fig,  154 

Grapefruit,  I,  II,  III,  152-153 
Prune  and  Orange,  153 
Rose,  581 
Summer,  154 
Violet,  582 
Watermelon,  153 
Curd,  9 
Currant, 
Bread,  200 
Dumplings,  526 
Rolls,  204 
Curry,  73 
Custard, 
Baked,  685 
Caramel,  517 
Chocolate,  517 
Cocoanut,  518 
Coffee,  511 
Corn,  Canned,  425 
Egg,  7,  8 
Farm,  424 
Macaroni,  163 
Orange- Rice,  515 
Plain,  516 
Renversee,  517- 
Banana,  570 
Bread  and  Chicken,  683 
Soft  Caramel,  516 

Cooked,  I  and  II,  514 
Cutlets, 

Lobster,  284-285 
Veal,  Breaded,  531 


Dandelions,  30,  450 
Date  Bread,  199 
Dates,  Stuffed,  659 
Desserts,  64,  510-554 

Cereal  and  Bread,  518-522 

Cookery  of,  9 

Cooking,  by  Steam,  115 

Corn   Starch,  511-514 

Custard,  514-518 

for  the   Dinner   Pail,   50-53 

Frozen,    562-582 

Fruit     Loaves     and     Bettys, 

.  530-531 

Gelatine,  Moulds  for,  543 

Gelatines,   Sponges,  and  Ba- 
varian Creams,  542 

of   a   Cake    Nature,   522-527 

Steamed  Puddings  for,  531- 
541 

Tapioca,  527-530 

with  Baking  Powder  Found- 
ation, 522-539 
Cake   Foundation,   536-539 
Diet, 

Concentrated,  7 

Convalescent,  674-676 

Fall,  35-39 

Light,  674-676 

Liquid,  674-676 

Maternity,   16-17,  678 

Mixed,  2 

Spring,  27-32 

Summer,  32-35 

Winter,  35-39 
Digestibility  of  foods,  8 
Dill,  70 
Dinner, 

Boiled,  330 

Children's,  45 

Home,  107 

Menus,  56,  61-63 

Planning,  56,  61-63 
Diseases  from  Protein,  6 
Dissolvents,  2,  18-19 
Dock, 

Narrow,  448-449 

Root,  447 
Doughnuts,     14-15,    304,    310- 

315 

Raised,  314 
Sour  Milk,  314 


INDEX 


735 


Doughnuts,  continued 

Sweet  Milk,  313 
Drinks, 

Cold,   136-143 

Iced,  in  the  Diet,  35 
Drops, 

Coffee,  651 

Peppermint,  650 

Wintergreen,  650-651 
Drying, 

Equipment  for,  717 

Fruits,  717-722 

General     Methods     of,     713, 

718-719 

Vegetables,  717-722 
Duck,  3/2-373 
"Blind,"  318 
Brown,  373 
Roast,  372 

under  Gas  Flame,  367 
Smothered,  373 
Dumplings,  222 
Baked  Apple,  524 
Fruit,  524 
Pear,  524 
Rhubarb  and   Pineapple, 

524 

Strawberry,  525 
Bread  and  Suet,  215 
,  526 


Cranberry,  5 
Currant,  526 


Oyster  Forcemeat,  375 
Steamed  Apple,  525 

E 

Eclairs,  643 

Eel,  Stewed,  285 

Egg  and  Bread  Salad,  214 

Egg  Broth,  680 

Egg  Beaters,  170 

Egg    Dishes,    Savory,    170-187 

Egg  Malted  Milk,  138 

Egg  Nest,  683 

Egg  Nog,  683 

Egg- Plant, 

as  food,  2,  15 
•    Fried  with  Creamed  Corn, 

413 

Plain  Fried,  413 
Stewed,  413 
Stuffed,  413-414 
Egg  Shake,  Coffee,  138 


Eggs,  170-187 

as  food,  2,  6-7,  14-15,  26,  31 

au  Gratin,  174-175 

Asparagus,  172 

Baked,  3,  5 

and  Mashed  Potatoes,  174 
in  Tomato  Sauce,  173 
with     Creamed     Potatoes, 

.  173-174 
Beating,  170-171 
Benedict,   172 
Boiled,  170-171 
Coddled,  8 
Cookery  of,  9 
Creole,   173 
Croquettes,  170 
Curried,   174 
Fried,  9,  14,  170,  177 
Hard-Boiled,  171 

Cooked,  31 
Poached,  8,  170-171 

in  Broth,  171 
on  Milk  Toast,  171 

Tomato  Toast,  172 
Scrambled,  8,  9,  170,  175 
over  Hot  Water,  177 
with  Asparagus,  176 
Bacon,  176 
Cheese,  176 
Cream  Sauce  and  Onions, 

175 

Crumbs,  211 
Green  Peppers,  176 
Ham,  175 

Ham  or  Dried  Beef,  176 
Left-Over  Creamed 

Onions,  176 
Mushrooms,  176 
Tomato,  175-176 
Shirred,  170,  173 

with  Crumbs,  211 
Spanish,    177 
Testing,  170 

Electricity,   Cooking  by,  91-95 
Enamelware,  74-77 
Endive,  37-38 
English  Monkey,  69 
Esthetic  Foods,  4 
Evaporating,  ^ 

Equipment  for,  717 
Fruits,  717-722 
General  Directions  for,  718- 
719 


736 


INDEX 


Evaporating,  continued 
Vegetables,  717-722 


Fats,  2-5 

Beef,  5 

Clarifying  of,  300-301 

Cookery  of,  14 

Digestibility  of,  14-15 

Flank,  318-319 

for  Frying,  15,  300 

How  to  Fry  in  Deep,  303-304 

Place  in  Menu,  13-15 

Preparation   of,   13-15 

Prevention    of    Soaking    of, 
302-303 

Rendering,  Beef,  300 

Requirements  in  Diet,  22-23, 
26 

Trying  out  Beef,  300 
Chicken,  301 

Using  Savory,  301 

Utensils  for  Frying,  301 

When  to  Fry  in  Deep  Fat, 

301-302 

Fern,  Brake,  451 
Figs,  2,  15,  17,  654 

Baked,  157 

Filling,  624 

Jellied,   548-549 

Marshmallow,  157-158 

Souffle,  187 

Stewed,  158 
Fillings,  620-629 

Banana,  628 

Chocolate  Cream,  628 
Jelly,  629 

Cocoanut  Cream,  628     . 

Coffee  Cream,  628 

Cream,  628 

Fig,  624 

Orange,  627-628 

Orange-Date,  628 

Peach,  627 

Pineapple,  626 

Tutti  Fruti,  627- 
Finnan  Haddie, 

Baked  in  Milk,  298 

Broiled    with    Cream    Sauce, 
298 

Newburg,  299 

with  Puffed  Potato,  299 
Tomatoes,  298-299 


Fireless  Cookers,  10,  189,  441 

How  to  Use,  103-105 

Principles  of,   101-105 

Saying    of    Fuel    with,    101- 
102 

Time  Table  for,  102-103 

Utensils  for,  103 
Fires,  in  Coal  Range,  87 
Fish,  2,  7-10,  14,  266-299 

Baking,  272-273 

Bisque,  262 

Boiling,  271-272 

Broiling,  271-272 

Chops,  Baked,  275 

Cleaning  and  Dressing,  269- 
270 

Cooking  of,  269 
by  Steam,  114 

Creamed  on  Toast,  277 

Frying,  270-271 
in  Deep  Fat,  270 

Salt  and  Smoked,  292-299 

Sauteing,  270-271 

Steaming,   272 

Stuffing  for,  286 

What  to  Serve  with,  64 
Fish-Balls,  290 

Tuna,  238 
Fish-Cakes,  290 
Float,  515 

Raspberry,  515 

Strawberry,  515 
Floating  Island,  514-515 

Chocolate,  515 

Flounder,  Fried  Fillet  of,  286 
Flour, 

Bread,  192 

Gruel,  679 

Pastry,  630 

Unrobbed,  190-191 

White,  16,  191 

Whole  Wheat,  190-191 
Fondant, 

Quick,  647 

White,  646-647 
Foods, 

Acid,   15-19 

Amount  of,  20-23  • 

Ballast,  15-19,  30 

Bulky,  2,  4,  30 

Caloric  Value  of,  19-20 

Children's,  4-6 

Classification  of,  2-3 


INDEX 


737 


Foods,  continued 
Combinations  of,  9 
Concentrated,  18 
Cost  of,  i,  4-5 
Digestibility  of,  8 
Dissolvent,  2-3 
Esthetic,  4 
Fine  Art  of  Combining,  24- 

65 

Frying  of,   300-315 
Fuel,  2 

Grease-cooked,  14,  27 
Mineral,    15-19 
Muscle-Makers,  2 
Predigested,  8 
Quantity  of,  4-5 
Requirements  of,  4-5,  21-23 
Reserve-Force,  2 
Values  of,  Table  of,  23-25 
Variety  of,  2 
Frappes,  570-575 
Cider,  575 
Coffee,  575 
Cranberry,   574 
Ginger  Ale,  547 
Mint,  575 

French  Dressing,  14 
Fritters,  2,  14-15,  310-315 
Apple,  311 
Ball,  313. 
Banana,  311 
Batter  for,  310-311 
Bread,  216,  304 
Clam,   313 
Corn,  312-313 
Cranberry,  312 
Graham  Drop,  312 
Prunes,  311 
Sponge  Banana,  312 
Frostings,  2 
Apple,  626-627 
Boiled,  624 

Butter,  624 

Caramel,  625-626 

Chocolate,  624 

Coffee,  625 

Orange,  625 
Caramel  Nut,  626 
Confectioner's,  622 
Double  Chocolate  and  White, 

625 

Fig,  624-625 
Lemon,  623 


Frostings,  continued 

Marshmallow,  625 

Mocha,  624 

Orange,  623 

Ornamental,  623-624 

Pineapple,  626 

Plain   Chocolate,  622 

Raisin,  622 

Raspberry,  622 

Snow,  623 

Strawberry,  622 

Vinegar,  623 

Walnut  Cream,  625 
Fruit  Cups,  233 
Drinks,  3,  18 
Dumplings,    524 
Tart,  641 
Fruits,  144-158 

Canning,  692-695 

Cooking,  17,  156 

Digestibility  of,  17 

Dried,  155-158 

Fresh,  3,  15 

Glace,  657 

in  Diet,  34-35,  37 

Juices  of,  Canning,  707-708 

Methods    for    Drying    and 
Evaporating,  707-708 

Preparing  for   Serving,   144 

Sour,  4 

Steam  Cooking  of,  114 

Stewed,  2,  12-13 

Sun-Dried,    Preserved,    704- 
705 

Tonic  Value  of,  17 

Watery,  3,  18 
Frying,  300-315 

Fish,  9-10 

in  Deep  Fat,  15 

Time  Table  for,  302 
Fudge,  627,  650 

Chocolate,  652-653 

Fair,  653 

Ginger,  653 

Marshmallow,  627,  653-654 

White  Cocoanut,  653 
Fuses,  94 


Game,  362-379 
Canned,  698 
Food  value  of,  2,  7 
What  to  Serve  with,  62-63 


738 


INDEX 


Gelatines,  Food  Value  of,  3,  18 

General  Directions  for,  542 

Grapefruit,  550 

Preparing  Moulds  for,  543 

Rhubarb,  550 
Ginger, 

Bavarian,  552-553 

Candied,  656 

Crystallized,  4 

Nuts,  Frosted,  614 
Gingerbread,  Soft,  223 
Gingersnaps,  611 
Glassware,  75-77 

Choice  of,  117 
Gluten  Bread,  196-197 
Goose,  Roast,  373~374 
Graham  Bread,  Quick,  230 
Ginger,   230 
Unkneaded,  196 
Biscuits,  201 
Grape  Butter,  706-707 
Grapefruit,  31,  37,  233 

Carpels  of,  145,  233 

Cup,  I,  II,  III,  152-153 

Jelly,  Menus  for,  54~55 

Preparation  of,  156 

Punch,   141 

with  Tokay  Grapes,  146 
Grape  Juice,  68 

Bavarian,  553~554 

Hot,  142 

Punch,  141 
Grapes,  144 

Dipped  Chocolate,  649 

Frosted,  148 

Spiced,  714 
Gravy, 

Food  value  of,  2,  14 

Making,  326-327 
Greens, 

Food  value  of,  2,  15 
Griddle  Cakes, 

Bread  Crumb,  223-224 

Cooking  of,  219-220 

Cornmeal,  224 

Entire  Wheat,  224 

Green   Corn,  224-225 

Plain,    223 

Rice,  224 
Gruels, 

Barley,  678-679 

Cornmeal,  679 

Flour,  679 


Gruels,  continued 

General  Rules  for,  678 

Oatmeal,  679 
Guinea  Chicken,  Planked,  377 


H 


Haddock, 
Baked  Crumbed,  274 

Fillets  of,  274 

Slices  of,  275 
Matelote  of,  277-278 
Halibut, 

Baked  Crumbed,  274 

Fillets  of,  274 

Slices  of,  275 
Casserole,  of,  274-275 
Digestibility  of,  8 
Fillets  of,  273-274 
Souffle  of,  1 86 
Smoked,   Pilau,  297 

en   Casserole,  298 
Creme,  297-298 
Ramekins,  297 
with  Oysters,  273 
Ham, 

and  Bread  Timbales,  212 
Baked  Hash,  379-380 

in  Milk,  360 

Virginia,   358 
Boiled,  357-358 
Braised,  359 
Buying,  321 
Fat,  214 

Fried  with  Milk  Gravy,  360 
in  a  Casserole  of  Vegetables, 

440 
Pan-Broiled   Boiled,  358 

with  Cream  Sauce,  359 
Planked,  Easter  Style,  360 
Pot  Roast  of,  359 
Roasted    with    Grape    Juice, 

358-359 
with  Scrambled  Eggs,  176 

Stuffed  Eggs,  175 
Hasenpeffer,  379 
Hash,  379 

Baked  Ham,  379-380 
Timbales,  379 
Hearts, 
Beef,  320 

Calves',   Smothered  in 
Onions    354 


INDEX 


739 


Herbs,  66-67 

Bouquet  of,  70 

Dried,  722 

Fines,  70 

Herring,  Devilled,  295 
Hominy, 

and  Nut  Roll,  161 

Fried,  161 

Muffins,  206 

Omelet,  161 
Honey, 

Food  value  of,  2,  12-13 

Quince,  706 

Horseradish,  71 


Ice-Box,  82^83 
Ice  Cream, 

Baked  Apple  Sauce,  570 

Banana  Pecan,  564 

Caramel,  569 
Almond,  569 

Chocolate,  568-669 

Cocoa,  564 

Coffee,  569-570 

Croquettes,  565 

Eclairs,  567-568 

Food  value  of,  2,  14 

Freezing  of,  562-563 

French,  565 

Frozen  Pudding,  566-567 
Whipped,  567 

Grape  Nut,  564 

in  Diet,  32-33 

Junket,  567,  685 

Maple,  568 

Marshmallow,  566 

Moulding,  563-564 

Peach,  566 

Peppermint,  564 

Philadelphia,  564 
Fruit,  564 

Pistachio,  567 

Sour  Cream,  565 

Strawberry  I  and  II,  565-566 
Iced  Drinks,  32-33 
Ices,  College,  579-582 

in  the  Diet,  32-33 
Ices,  Water,  5/0-575 

see  Water  Ices 

Apricot,  571 

Currant,   571 


Ices,  Water,  continued 

Dried  Apricot,  574-575 

Grape  Juice,  571-572 

Lemon,  571 

Orange,  570 

Raspberry,  571 

Strawberry,  571 
Icings,  620-629 

Boiled  Maple  Walnut,  626 

Cocoanut,  623 

Maple,  624 

Quick  Coffee,  623 

Rich  Chocolate,  622 
Indigestion,    from    Fruits    and 

Starch,  17 
Invalid  Cookery,  674-686 

Service,  674-^686 
Invalids,  Feeding  of,  675-678 
Iron,   16,  30 
Ironware,  75,  77 


Jam,  699-710 

and   Bread   Pudding,  215 

Blackberry,   700 

Cherry,  700 

Gooseberry,   700-701 

Dried  Apricot,  158,  701 
Peach,  701 

Loganberry,   700 

Raspberry,  700 

Strawberry,  700 
Jelly, 

A'spic,  327 

Bread,  214-215 

Caramel  Coffee,  543-544 

Cider,  544 

Coffee,  543 

Lemon,  543 

Making,  708-710     . 

Mixed  Fruit,  549 

8uick  Mint,  544 
range,  543 
and  Date,  543 
Tart,  Food  value  of,  4 
Johnny  Cake,  Eggless,  226 
Junket,  510,  684 
Food  value  of,  7 
Caramel,  68s 
Cocoa,  684-685 
Ice  Cream,  567,  685 


740 


INDEX 


K 

Kalarabi,  Dried,  721 
Ketchup,  4,   see   Catsup 
Kidneys, 

Beef,  318-319 

Creole   Style,  338-339 

Devilled,  339 
Kilowatt  Hour,  95 
Kitchen, 

Arrangement  of  74-84 

Cabinet,  80 

Equipment    of,    74-84 

Furnishings   of,   78 

Ice-Box  for,  82-83 

Plumbing,  81 

Range,   82 

Size  of,  79 

Slate  for,  83-84 

Table  for,  81 

Utensils  for,  74 
Klopps, 

Chicken,  385-386 

Salmon,  290 
Kumquats, 

Candied,   656 

Preserved,  705 


Lady  Fingers,  613 
Lamb,  2r  7,  342-347 
Baked  Chops,  345 
Breaded    Chops,    345-346 

Forequarter,    343-344 
Broiled   Chops,  344 
Buying  of,  320-327 
Canned,  698 
Casserole  of,  347 
Chops,   Pan-Broiled,  344-345 
with  Gravy,  5 

Peas,  345 

Crown  Roast  of,  342 
Cutting  of,  320-321 
Fricassee  of,  347 
Minced  with  Tomato,  383 
Pasty,  344 
"  Pluck  "  of,  321 
Roast  Leg  of,  342 

under  Gas,  342 
Stew,  346-347 
Stuffed,  34  q 

Forequarter,   343 
What  to  Serve  with,  62 


Lard,  15, 

Leeks,  Dried,  721-722 
Left-Overs,  108-109 
Legumes,  441-446 
Lemon,  Butter,  499 

Juice,  4,  14,  31 

Plain  Souffle,  187 
Lemonade,    138,   682 

Oatmeal,  682 

Pineapple,  139 
Lemons,  31,  37 

Baked,  31 
Lentils,  2,  7,  8,  16 

Baked,  446 

Cookery  of,   II 
Lettuce,  30,  37 

Creamed,  439 

Wilted,  439 
Light,  Pilot,  95 
Lime,  16-17 

Linen,   Choosing,   116-117 
Liquids,  2-3,  45 
Liver, 

a  la  McAlpin,  353 

Broiled,  and  Bacon,  352 

en   Casserole,   353 

Fried,  and  Bacon,  352 
with    Onions,    352-353 

in   Potato  and  Rice   Border, 
383 

Terrapin,  382 

with  Olive  Sauce,  353 
Loaf, 

Asparagus,  438 

Bread  and  Nut,  212 

Christmas,  649-650 

Cinnamon,   198 

Fruit   and    Bread,  531 

Oyster,    278 

Salmon,  291 

White  Fish,  289 
Lobster  Butter,  500 

Souffle,   186 
Lobsters,  282-285 

Baked  Live,  283 

Boiling,   282-283 

Broiled  Live,  283 

Buttered,  283 

Chafing-Dish  Style,  284-285 

Cutlets,  284 

Farci,  284 

Opening,  282 

Savory,  283-284 


INDEX 


Loganberries,    Preparation  .of, 

148 

Loganberry  Ade,  139 
Luncheons, 

"  Company,"  107 

Menus  for,  5 

Planning,  56,  59-61 

School,  46-49 

M 

Macaroni,  2,   11-12 

Baked    with    Hamburg,   337- 
338 

Brooklyn   Style,   163 

Custard,  163 

on  Toast,   163 

Plain,    161-162 

Winchester,    162-163 

with  Asparagus,  162 

Tomatoes,  162 
Macaroon   Bisque,  578 
Macaroons, 

Oatmeal,   618 

Pistachio,  616 
Mace,  72 
Mackerel, 

Baked  in  Milk,  285 

Planked,  287 

Salt, 

Broiled,  295 
Cooking  of,  292 
in  Milk,  295 
Mangoes,  712-713 
Marguerites,  607 

Saltine,  616 

Whole  Wheat,  607,  617 
Marjoram,    71 
Marmalades,  699-710 

Grape,  701 

Kumquat,  702 

Orange,   702 

Peach,  702 

Pineapple,  701-702 
Marshmallows,    Chocolate,  649 
May  Baskets,  541 
Mayonnaise,  2,   14,  460 
Meal,    Whole    Wheat,    15-,    18, 

190 
Meals, 

Children's  40-49 

Planning,    54-55 

Serving,  116-122 


Meals,   Serving,   continued 

"  Company  "  with  a  Maid, 

119-121 

without  a  Maid,  121-122 
without  a  Maid,  116-119 
Short-Cut     Preparation     of, 

96-115 

Measurements,    131-132 
Meat,  26,  33,  316-389 
and  Bread   Pie,  214 
Boiling,   325 
Braising,   326 
Buying  on  Basis  of  Calories, 

322-324 
Canned,    698 
Cheaper  Cuts  of,  318 
Chopped,  319 
Cookery   of,    19-11 
General       Directions      of, 

324-327 
Corning,   318 
Cuts  of,  317 
en  Casserole,  326 
Fried,  8 
Grades  of,  316 
Gravy-Making  for,   326-327 
How  to   Buy,  316-324 
in  Diet,  33 
Made  Dishes  of,  8 
Mince,  642-643 

Lemon,  643 

Oven-Roasting    of,    324-325 
Pan-Broiling,  324 
Pot-Roasting,    326 
Roasting  under   Gas    Flame, 

325 

Steam  Cooking  of,  14 
Stewing,   336 
Substitutes,   7,   33 
Three  Times  a  Day,  7 
Variations   in  the   Price   of, 

320 

Melons,  12 
Menus,  5 

Breakfast,   56-59 
Dinner,   57,   61-65 

Pail,  52-53 
For  a  Week,  98-99 
Luncheon,  56,  59-61 
Chafing-Dish,   126 
School,  48-49 
Oven  Meals,  107-108 
Supper,  56,  59-61 


742 


INDEX 


Menus,  continued 

After-Theatre,    126 
Sunday  Night,  125 
with  Cheese,  664 
Meringue, 

for  Pies  and  Puddings,  632- 

633 

Fruit,  536 

Orange,  537 

Shells,  619 

Strawberry,  527 
Milk,  2,  6-8,  26 

Albumin,  683 

Partially    Digested,    681 

Peptonized,   681 

Malted,  and  Egg,  682 
Egg  Nog,  683 

Shakes,  Chocolate,  137 

Skimmed,  2,  18 

Sour,   Neutralization  of,  218 

Thickened,  679 
Milkweed,  447 
Minerals,  2-5,   15-19,  26 
Mint,  70,  451-452 

After-Dinner,  652 

Leaves,  Crystallized,  657 

Minced,  5 
Molasses,  12-13 

Barbadoes,   12 

Candy,   Pulled,  654 

Taffy,  652 
Mould,  Blackberry,  513 

Blueberry,  513 
Mousse,   2,    14,   575-579 

Chocolate,  579 

Nougat,  578-579 

Orange  Nut,  579 

Packing  and  Freezing,  563 

Strawberry,  579 
Muffins,  2,  12,  205,  218 

Apple,  228 

Blueberry,  225 

Bran,  226 

Buttermilk   Bread,  216 

Cereal,  227 

Corn,  Quick,  226 

Cornmeal,   205-206 

Currant    Nut,    228 

Date,  226 

Entire  Wheat,  227 

Graham,  227 

Hominy,  206 

Oatmeal,  Raised,  206-207 


Muffins,  continued 

Rice,  Quick,  227 
Raised,  207 

Rye,  228 

Sour  Milk,  218 

Twin   Mountain,  225 
Muscle-Makers,  2-3 
Mush, 

Cornmeal,  Fried,   160 

Hunter's  Style,  160-161 

Meat,    Fried,    160 
Mushrooms,  6,  8 

Dried  Trimmings  of,  71 

Escalloped,   430 

on  Toast,  429 

with  Bacon,  429-430 

Frizzled    Dried    Beef,    342 
Scrambled  Eggs,   176 
Mustard,  72,  451 
Mutton,  2,  7 

Baked  Chops,  346 

Boiled  Leg  of,  343 

Braised  Leg  of,  343 

Canned,  698 

Chops,  Casserole,  346 

Minced   with   Tomatoes,   383 

What  to   Serve  with,  62 


N 


Nasturtium    Seeds,   67 

Pickled,  715 
Nettles,  451 
Noodles,  2,  12,  165 

and   Tomato   Sauce,  165 

Cinnamon,   166 

Creamed,    165 

Fried,  I  and  II,   166 

in  Cheese  Sauce,  165-166 
Nut  and  Bread  Loaf,  212 
Nut, 

Bread,  199 
Quick,  230-231 

Rolls,  and  Hominy,  161 
Nutmeg,  72 
Nuts, 

Digestibility  of,  8 

Food  value  of,  2,  7,  14,  18,  31 

Glace,  657 


Oatmeal,  7,   15,   18 


INDEX 


743 


Oatmeal,  continued 
Gruel,  679 

Muffins,  206 
Oats,  12 

Rolled,  16 
Obesity,   13 
Oil, 

as  Seasoning,  31 

Corn,  2,   14-15 

Dressing,   5 

Olive,  2-3,  14-15 

Peanut,  2,  14-15,  31 

Salad,   Selection  of,  456 

Vegetable,   15     , 
Oleomargarine,  14-15 
Olives,  as  Seasonings,  67 

Green,  4 

Ripe,  2,  14 

'Stuffed,  233 
Omelets,  8,  9,  14,  170,  177-183 

Artichoke,   182 

Asparagus,    180-181 

Baked,  184 
Crumbed,  184 

Bread  Crumbs,  21 1 

Cheese,  181 

Corn,    182 

Dried  Beef,  181 

French,   178-179 

Friday,    181 

General    Directions    for,    178 

Hominy,  161 

Orange,   182 

Pineapple,    182-183 

Plain,  178-179 

Potato,  401-402 

Puffy,    178-179 

Rolled  French,  179 

Sour  Cream,  180 

Spanish,  180 

Swedish,   180 
Onions,  15,  30,  68 

a  la  Tripe,  414 

and  Fried  Liver,  352-353 

Baked,  415 

and  Tomatoes,  414 
Stuffed,  414 

Creamed,  415 

Dried,  721-722 

Escalloped,   415-416 

Frencli  Fried,  415 

Left-Over     Creamed     with 
Scrambled  Eggs,  176 


Onions,  continued 

Smothered    with    Calves' 

Hearts,  354 
with   Escalloped  Tomato, 

429 

Pickled  Beets,  429 
Stewed  Tomatoes,  429 
Young,    in    Cream    Sauce, 

415 
Orangeade,    139,   682 

Syrup,  138 
Orange  and  Prune  Cup,  153 

Fanchonettes,  641 

Omelets,    182 

Rice  Bavarian,  550-551 

Rolls,  204 
Oranges,  31,  37,  144 

an   Naturel,  145 

Carpels,   145 

Compote,    145 

en  Casserole,  145 

Flower  Fashion,  144 

Sections,  144 

Sliced  in  Jelly,  5 
Pullman  Fashion,  145 

Sour,  4 

to  Eat  with  Spoon,  144 
Oyster   and   Veal   Pie,   349 
'     Bouillon,  262 

Filling     for     Patties,     278- 
279 

Forcemeat  Dumplings,  375 

Loaves,  278 

Pasty,  279-280 

Pies,  279 

Plant, 
Creamed,  423 

Escalloped,  424 

Soup,   French,  263 

Stew,  265 
Oysters, 

and  Celery  Stew,  263 

Brown,  281 

Canned,  699 

Chops,  278 

Devilled,  280-281 

Digestibility  of,  8 

Escalloped,  280 

Fried,  280 

Panned,  279 

Raw,  233 

Saute,  with  Celery,  279 
Oxidation,  12,  16 


744 


INDEX 


Pan-Broiling,   n 
Pancakes,  233 
Parfaits,  2,  14,  575~579 

Caramel,  577 

Coffee,  577-578 

Fig,  576 

Garden,  S77 

Maple,  575-576 

Packing  and  Freezing,  563 

Pineapple,  576-577 

Snow,  576 
Parsley,  37-38,  70 

Dried,  722 
Parsnips, 

Baked,  5' 

Baked  in  Stock,  416 

Buttered,   416 

Cakes,  416 

Creamed  on  Toast,  417 

Dried,  721 
Paste, 

Anchovy,  233 

Mint,  Turkish,  659-660 

Puffs,  633 

Short  Biscuit,  634-635 
Pastry,  2,   14,  630-643 

Bag  and  Tubes,  621-622 

Cheese,  642 

Flaky,  634 

Flour,  630 

French,  633 

Short  Cut,  634 
Patty  Shells,  633-634 
Peach  Butter,  706^707 

Hominy    Ramekins,    521 
Peaches, 

Bavarian,   551 

Dried,  722 

Halved  Stuffed,  148-149 

Serving,   148 

Sweet  Pickled,  713 
Peanut  Brittle,  651-652 
Peanuts,   14 

Bisque,  260-261- 

Salted,  7,  658 

with  Sweet  Potatoes,  407 
Peas,  7 

Cookery  of,   n 

Cow   with   Brown   Rice,  442 
Roast  Pork,  442 

Creamed,  43 


Peas,  continued 

Dried,  2,  8, 

Green,  431 
Dried,  721 

Soup,  606 

Stewed,-  Italian,  446 
Pears, 

Baked    Dumplings,   524 

Coddled,  140 

Dried,  723 

Jellied,  548 

Preserved  with  Ginger,  703 

Stewed  Dried,  158 

Sweet  Pickled,  713 
Pecans,   Salted,  658 
Pectin,  Testing  Fruit  for,  708- 

Peel, 

Candied  Grapefruit,  655 

Orange,  655 
Peppermint  Drops,  651 
Peppers, 
Green,  4 

with  Scrambled  Eggs,  176 
Shredded,  5 
Stuffed    with    Brown    Rice, 

431 

Creamed    Cabbage,    433 
Nuts,  431 

Pheasant,  with  Oysters,  378 
Phosphorus,  16-17,  30-31 
Picalilli,  711 
Pickles,  4 
Green  Tomato,  711 
Sour  Cucumber,  710 
Spiced,  Mixed,  711 
Stuffed     Vegetable,     712- 

713 

Sweet  Green  Tomato,  711 
Vegetable,  711 
Pickling,  710-716 
Brine  for,  710 
Pigeons,  Casserole  of  Stuffed, 

375 

Pie  of,  375-376 
Pigweed,  450 
Pie,  12,  27 
Apple,  635 

Upside  Down,  525 
Astrakan     Apple     Custard, 

625 

Baking,  632 
Beef  and  Tomato,  380 


INDEX 


745 


Pie,  continued 

Berry,     General     Directions 

for,  637 

Bread  and  Meat,  214 
Butterscotch,   638 
Chocolate   Cream,  640 
Cocoanut  Custard,  640-641 
Country,  440 
Cream,    640 
Fruit,  639 
Custard,  639 
Double  Apple,  635 
Lemon   Meringue,   637-638 

Sponge,  638 
Meringues  for,  635 
Mince,  29,  639 
Old-Fashioned  Pork,  356 
Peach  Custard,  636 
Pineapple,  638 
Pumpkin,  639 

Little,  639-640 
Putting  together,  630-632 
Rabbit,  378 
Rhubarb, 
and  Raisin,  636 
Plain,  636 
Squash,  640 
Upside  Down, 
Apple,  525 
Currant,  525 
Individual,  525 
Peach,  525 
Raspberry,  525 
Pimento  Butter,  500 
Pimentoes,  4 

and  Rice  au  Gratin,  167 
Pineapple,  32 
and  Fruit,  147 

Rhubarb    Dumplings,    524 
au  Naturel,  147 
Crystallized,  656 
Omelet,   182-183 
Sweetened,  147 
Plantain,  449 
"Pluck"  of  Lamb,  321 
Plum  Butter,   706-707 
Plums,  Stewed  with  Chestnuts, 

ISI 

Plumbing,  81 
Pop-Corn  Balls,  655 

Maple,  655 
Popovers,  5,  225 
Pork,  8,  14, 


Pork,  continued 
and  Veal  Loaf,  350 
Chops,   27 

Baked  with  Apples,  357 

en   Casserole,  356-457 

Saute,  356 
Fat,  2 
Lean,  2,  7 

Pie,  Old-Fashioned,  351 
Products,  321 
Roast,  27,  356 

Boned   Shoulder,  356 

Casserole  of,  381 

with  Cow  Peas,  442 
Salt,    with    Stewed    Kidney- 
Beans,  444 
Sliced,  Creole,  357 
What  to  Serve  with,  62-63 
Potassium,  30 
Potatoes,  2,  7,  397-407 
Adolph's  Stuffed  with  Ham, 

398 
Baked,   397~398 

Rocky  Mountain  Style,  398 

Stuffed,  398 

Baked  Sausage  with,  361 
Boiled,  399 

Browned  Pimento,  400 
Buttered,  399 
Composition   of,   397 
Cookery  of,  12,  397 
Creamed,  405 

au  Gratin,  406 

Lyonnaise,  405 

with  Baked  Eggs,   173-174 
Curried,  401 
Delmonico,  405 

with   Cream   Roll,  405-406 
Duchess,  400 
Escalloped,  403 

Cooked  with  Cheese,  403 

with   Bacon,   403 
Franconia,   404 

Quick,  404 
French  Fried,  402 
Hash-Brown,   400-401 
with    Ham,   401 
with  Nuts,  401 
Hungarian,  399 
Lyonnaise,  403-404 

Italian,  404 
Mashed,  400 

with  Baked  Eggs,  174 


746 


INDEX 


Potatoes,  continued 

New    with    Creamed    Eggs, 

399 

O'Brien,  399-400 
Omelet  of,  401-402 
On  Half-Shell,  684 
Pancakes,   402 
Puffs,  402 
Scones,  402 
Selection  of,  397 
Souffle  of,  184-185 
Steamed,  398 

Stew  with   Cheese,  404-405 
Straws,   402-403 
Stuffed  with  Sausage,  361 
Sweet,  12 

Boiled,  406 

Broiled,  406 

Brown   Mashed,  407 

French  Fried,  406 

Glace,  407 

Maple,  407 

Steamed,  406 

Sugared,  407 

with  Bacon,  407 

Peanuts,  407 
White,  12 

Potato  Balls*  French,  404 
Pot-Roasting,   326 
Poultry,  2,  7,  322,  363-379 
Chicken,  366-372 
Dressing    for    Broiling,   363 
Duck,  372-373 
Giblets  and   Feet   of,  364 
Goose,   373-374 
How   to   Clean,  362-363 

Know  Fresh,  322 
Stuffing  for,  365-366 
Trussing   and   Stuffing,   363- 

f    364 

Turkey,  374 

What  to  Serve  with,  63 
Pralines,   Cocoanut,  654 
Preserves,  12-13 

Baked    Plum,  706 
Strawberry,  705-706 

Green  Tomato,  704 

Yellow  Tomato,  703 
Preserving,  687-724 
Pretzels,  207-208 
Processing,  689 
Proteins,  2-5  22-23,  26 


Proteins,  continued 
Cookery  of,  8-9 
Place  in  Menu,  6-ii 
Preparation  of,  6-n 
Prune  Bread,  230 
Prunes,  2,  15,  17 
Jellied,  548 
Pickled,   157 
Stewed,  156 
Stuffed,  659 
Thickened,  513-514 
and  Cheese  Balls,  667 

Orange  Cup,  153 
Pudding, 
Arrowroot,  12 
Baked  Almond,  538 
Gingerbread,    538 
Banana,  537 
Blackberry  Mould,  513 
Blueberry  Mould,  513 
Bread  and  Cheese,  212 
Cake,  537-538 
Cereal,  2,  12,  520-521 
Chocolate  Bread,  518 
Christmas,  532 
Cocoanut  Bread,  519 
Coffee,  520 
Corn  Starch,  2,  12 
Chocolate,  512 
Coffee,  512 
Lemon,  512 
Plain,  513 
Raspberry,  513 
Rhubarb,  513 
Strawberry,  512 
White,  511-512 
Cream  of  Rice,  686 
Creamy  Rice,  521 
Date  and  Nut,  538 
Eggless  Bread,  215 
Egg  and  Milk,  31 
English  Cheese,  667 
Fig  Bread,  518 
Frozen,  566-567 
Fruit, 

French,  532 
Rich,  533 
Hunter's,  533 
Indian  Tapioca,  529 
Lemon,  518-519 

Rice,   520 
Little  Date,  534 


INDEX 


747 


Pudding,  continued 

Fig,  534 

Meat  and  Bread,  214 
Meringue  for,  632-633 
Mocha,  526-527 
.    Mock  Indian,  519 
Orange  Souffle,  536 
Pineapple,    31 
Prune,  526 

Thickened,  513-5*4 
St.  Patrick's,  544~545 
Snow,  547 

Soft   Lemon    Fruit,   513 
Sponge  Bread,  519 
Steamed, 

Blueberry,  535 

Bread  and  Jam,  215 

Cranberry,  535 

Date,  533 

Graham,  534 
Suet,  2,  12,  531-532 
Tapioca,  2,   12 
Yorkshire,   223 
Puffs, 

Cheese,  668 
Cottage,  527 
Cream,  643 
Snow,  535 
Steamed, 

Blackberry,  536 

Blueberry,  536 

Chocolate,   535~536 

Cranberry,  536 
Pumpkin, 

as  a  Vegetable,  430 
Fried,  430 
Steamed,  430 
Punch, 
Apricot,  142 
Cranberry,    141 
Fruit,  142-143 

Colonial,    142 
Grape,  141 
Grapefruit,   141 
Picnic,   141 
Turkish,  141 
Varsity,   141 
Purees,  242 
Chestnut,  419 
of  Dried  Canned  Vegetables, 

696 
Purslane,  448 


Quince, 

Butter,  706-707 
Honey,  706 


Rabbit  Pie,  378 

Radish,  Roses  of,  Tulips,  436 

Radishes,  15,  16 

Creamed,  437 

Raisin     and     Cranberry    Tart, 
636-637 

Clusters,  Stuffed,  659 
Ranges,  82,  85-88 

Coal,  85-88 

Combination,  88-91 

Electric,  91-95 

Gas,  88-91 

Kerosene,  91 
Rarebit, 

Chinese,  699 

Cooking,  ii 

Food  value  of,  3 

Tomato,  669-670 

Welsh,  669 
Ration, 

Balanced,  1-6,  20 
Raspberries,  144 

Preparation  of,  148 

Preserved,  704-705 
Raspberry  Ade,  139 

Bavarian,  551 
Refrigerators,  82-83 
Relish,  Corn  and  Bean,  715* 
Rhubarb,  2,  15,  31-32 

and     Pineapple     Dumplings, 

524 

Baked,  149 
Spiced,  714 
Tart,  636 
Rhubarbade,  140 
Rice,  12,  13,  31 
and  Beef-Balls,  380 

Meat  Loaf,  383 

Orange  Bavarian,  550-551 

Pimentoes  au  Gratin,  167 
Blanching,   166 
Boiled,  5 
Bread,  191 

Unkneaded,  199 
Brown,  15-16 


748 


INDEX 


Rice,  continued 

Buttered,  166 

Cakes,  169 
Sweet,  169 

Curry  of,   166-167 

Moulded  Brown,   169 

Polished,  16 

Raised,   Muffins,  207 

Savory,  167 
with  Milk,  168-169 

with    Onions    and    Peppers, 

167-168 
Risotto  alia  Milanese,  168 

with  Crabs  or  Shrimps,  168 
Roasting,   n 

Oven,  324-325 

Pot,  326 

Under  Gas   Flame,  325 
Rolls, 

Apricot,  523 

Chocolate    Sponge,   589 

Clover  Leaf,  205 

French,  202 

Fruit,  523 

Hominy    and    Nut,    161 

Jelly,  589 

Little  Currant,  204 

Marmalade,   221 

Old-Time  Hot  Short,  208 

Orange,  204 

Prune  Fruit,  524 

Quick,  221 

Cinnamon,  221 

Raisin,  524 

Savory,  221 

Strawberry  Fruit,   523-524 

Swedish,  202 

Sweet,  202-203 

Walnut,  221 
Romaine,  30 
Rusks,   Cocoanut,  203 
Rye,  12 

Bread,  191 
Unkneaded,   197 

Clover    Leaf    Biscuits,    203- 
204 


Sage,  71 

Salad  Plants,  2,  15,  30 
Salad    Dressings,     2,     14,    31, 
457-463 


Salad   Dressings,   continued 
'Bar  le  Due,  460 
Boiled,  Cheap,  461 

Oil,  462 

Buttermilk,  462 
Cheese,   Cream,  459 
Cranberry   Jelly,    460 
Cream,  Honey,  463 

Cream    Sour,   463 

Sour  Uncooked,  460 

Sweet,  463 

Whipped,  459 
Cucumber,  459 
Currant  Jelly,  460 
Curry,  462 
English,  458 

for  Vegetable  Salads,  464 
French,  456-458 

California,  458 

in   Quantity,  457~458 

Pepper,  4S8 
Honey,  460 
Italian,  458-459 
Mayonnaise,  Quick,  460 
Milk,  Sour,  462 
Peanut   Butter,  462 
Radish,  460 
Rich,  461 
Roquefort,  459 
Russian,  461 
Thousand  Island,  461 
Salads, 
Albany,   482 
Alligator  Pear,  479 

Apple,   Celery  and  Raisin, 

A  4§3 

Asparagus, 

Bundle,  476 

Christmas    Style,   475-476 

Luncheon,  476 
Autumn,  484 
Banana  Ball,  482 

Boat,  483 

Beet  and  Cabbage,  475 
Black   Susan,  483 
Bluefish,  488 
Cabbage,  473 

Canned    Peach    and    Nut, 
481 

Pear  and  Orange,  481 
Celery,  467 

and  Fruit  Jelly,  497 


INDEX 


749 


Salads,  continued 

Cheese  and  Green  Pepper, 

474 

Nut  and  Cranberry,  475 

and  Peppers,  475 
Cheese  and  Nut,  485 
Cherry  and  Nut,  478 
Chicken,  7,  485 

Garden   Style,  485-486 

Individual  Service,  485 
Chrysanthemum,  481-482 
Codfish,  488 
Cow   Pea,  467 
Cranberry,  496 
Cranberry  Fruit,  482 
Cucumber  and  Onion,  474 

Jelly,.  4& 

Dandelion,    and    Bacon,   473 
Date  and  Apple,  478 
Dressing  at  Table,  455~456 
Egg,  492-494 

and  Bread,  214 
Green  Pepper,  493 
Tomato,  492-493 

Plain,  494 

Stuffed,  493 
Endive  Ring,  473 
Field,  472 
Fish,  488-492 
Fruit,  476-485 

Elite,  478 

Frozen,  484 

Plain,  477 
Grapefruit,  481 
Halibut,  488 
Ham  and  Lettuce,  485 
Harvest,   480-481 
Hawaiian,  477 
Herring    and     Potato,    488- 

489 

How  to  Crisp,  453-454 
Make,  453 
Prepare,  453-454 
in  Diet,  34 
Jellied,  494-497 

Chicken,  497 

Crabmeat,  497 

Fruit,  496 

Ham,  Celery,  and  Tomato, 

495 

May  Fruit,  494 
Salmon,  497 
Tomato,  494-495 


Salads,  continued 

Tapioca,  495 
Kidney  Bean,  472 
Kumquat  and  Pear,  480 
Lamb  with  Asparagus,  486 
Lenten,  471-472 
Lettuce,  5 

Ribboned,  467 

Shredded,  467 

with     Anchovy    Dressing, 

491 
Cheese    and    Pimentoes, 

471 

Lima  Bean,  Fresh,  472 
Lobster,  489 

in   Scallop   Shells,  489 

Mousse,  489 
Los  Angeles,  471 
Macaroni,  470 

and  Ham,  470 

Vegetarian,  470-471 
Manhattan,  486 
May,  484 
Meat,  485-487 
Milady's  465 
Moulded,   Cowslip,  474 

Dandelion,  474 

Spinach,  474 
Oil  for,  456-457 
Oyster,  489-490 
Oyster   Plant,  467 
Peanut  and  Potato,  494 
Pepper,  Stuffed,  490 
Pimento,  467 
Pineapple,    Fresh,   479 

Pullman   Style,  479-480 
Porcupine,  480 
Potato, 

Egg  and  Radish,  469 

New    York    Style,   468-469 

Plain,  468 
Preparing     Ingredients     for, 

454-455 

Prune  and  Tangerine,  479 
Radish  and  New  Onion,  467- 

468 
Red     Cabbage     and     Celery, 

468 

and  Pepper,  473 
Rhubarb   and   Canned    Pear, 

478-479 

Rice,  Brown,  470 
and  Chicken,  470 


750 


INDEX 


Salads,  continued 

and  Nut,  470 
Roe,  490 
"  Roll  Mop,"  492 
Salmon     and      Green      Pea, 

490-491 
Tolland,  491 
Salsify,   467 

Sardine,   Individual,  491 
Shrimp,  490 
Soy  Bean,  467 
Spinach,  466 
Spring,  466 
Strawberry,  477 
Stuffed    Egg    and    Pimento, 

493-494 
Tomato    a    la    Crab    Flakes, 

492 

and  Sardine,  465 
Aspic,  494-495 
Cheese,  464 
Cream,  465 
Shamrock,    466 
Spanish,  465-466 
Stuffed,  465 

Yellow  and  Chestnuts,  464 
Tongue  and  Green  Pea,  487 
Tuna  Fish,  491-492 
Turban,  487 
Veal  and  Egg,  487 
Vegetable,  463-476 
Waldorf,  483-484 
Sally  Lunn, 
Quick,  229 
Raised,  207 
Salmon,  8 
Broiled  Smoked,  295  , 

Casserole   of,   295-296 
Creamed  on  Toast,  29 
Klopps,  290 
Loaf,  291 
Smoked,   Chartreuse,  296 

Devilled,  296 
Souffle,  186 
Turban  of,  296-297 
Salsify,  Dried,  721   - 
Salt,  Celery,  68 

Onion,  68 
Samp,  •  12 
with  Fried   Soy  Beans,  442 

Soy  Beans,  442 
Sandwiches,  498-509 
Bacon,  Hot,  502 


Sandwiches,  continued 
Banana   Salad,   504 

and  Honey,  507 
Celery,  505-506 
Cheese  and  Nut,  506 

Tomato,  506 
Chicken,  502 
Chocolate,  Sweet,  508 
Club,   501 

Baked    Bean,   501 

Mock,  501 

Orange,  509 

Vegetable,  501 
Cranberry,    507 
Date,  509 

and  Ginger,  509 
Egg  Salad,  502-503 
for    School    Luncheons,    48- 

49 

Fruit  Cheese,  507-508 
Ham  and  Jelly,  502 

Minced   Egg,  502 
Heart,  505 
Lettuce,  504 
Making,  498-499 
Melba,   508 
Noisette  Cheese,  507 
Olive  and  Egg,  503 
Onion    and    Celery,    505 
Orange,  508 
Pepper,    Green,    and    Onion, 

505 

Pimento,  506 
Pineapple,  507 
Piquant,  502 
Raisin    and    Peanut    Butter, 

_     508 

Savory,  506 

Serving,  499 

Shrimp,  503 

Spinach,  504 

Sponge  Cake,  509 

Strawberry,  507 

Sweet,  498-499 

Tart,  503 

Tea-Room,  504-505 

Toasted,  500 
Chicken,  500 
Salmon,  500 

Welsh  Rarebit,  504 
Sardine  Butter,  500 
Sardines,  8, 

Italian   Style,  338 


INDEX 


Sauce,  2 
Apple,    148-149 
Apricot,  555 
Apricot,  Hot,  559 
Asparagus,  393 
as    Seasonings,  68-69 
Bechamel,  391 

with  Mushrooms,  391 

Yellow,  391 
Bread,  396^ 
Brown,  390,  556 
Butter,  Drawn,  391 
Caper,  391 
Caramel,   557 

Almond,  557 

Celery    for    Chicken    Fricas- 
see, 393 

Cheese,  n,  395,  668 
Chili,  716 

Chocolate,    Rich,    560 
Cranberry,  555 
Cream,   14 
Creole,  394 
Custard,  556 
Egg,  393 

Hard,  555 
Flemish,  396    • 
Foamy  Hot,  556-557 
for   Beef   and   Tongue,   330- 

.    331 

Fruit,  Foamy,  557 
Ginger,  556 
Grape,   Foamy,  556 
Grape  Juice   for  Ham,  393- 

394 
Hard,    14 

Plain,  555 
Hollandaise,    396 
Horseradish,    391-392 
Lemon,  5^8 

Egg,  558-559 
Maple,  558 

Marshmallow,  Golden,  557 
Mint,  395 
Molasses,  558 
Mousseline,  395 
Mushroom,    Brown,   391 
Nut,  395 
Olive,  392 

Brown,  392 
Orange,  Foamy,  556 
Oyster,  394-3Q5 
Parsley  for  Fish,  394 


Sauce,  continued 

Peach,  Hard,  555 

Pepper,  Green,  393 
German,  394 

Pineapple,  559 

Raisin,  5,  558 

Raspberry,  559 

Savory,  388-396 

Shrimp,  395 

Spanish,  392-393 

Strawberry,  555,  557 
Hot,  559 

Sweet,  555 

Tartare,  396 

Tomato,  392 
Chutney,  715 

Vanilla,  558 

White,  i,  2,  3,  389 

2,  12,  27,  360-361 
Sausage, 

and  Potato,  361 

Baked,  360 

Farm  House,  361 

in  Diet,  38 

Potatoes  Stuffed  with,  361 

Simmered,  361 
Sauteing,  15 

Fish,  270-271 
Savory, 

Bread,  213 

Dishes,  7 

Sauce,  388-396 
Scalding,  688 
Scallops, 

au  Gratin,  276-277 

Devilled,  276 

Fried,  276 
Seasonings,   66-73 
Shad,  Planked,  287 
Shells,  Meringue,  619 
Sherbets,  2-3,  18,  57O-575 

Ginger,  572 

Grape,  673 

Grapefruit,  573 

Lemon,  571 
Milk,  572 

Peach  and  Blood  Orange,  572 

Pineapple,   572 

Raspberry,  573 

Rhubarb,  573 
Short  Bread,  Scotch,  616 
Shortcake,   14 

Asparagus,  429 


752 


INDEX 


Shortcake,  continued 

Biscuit,  522 

Fruit,  Plain,  523 
Sweet,  522 

Strawberry,  523 

Sweet,  522 
Shrimps, 

Japanese,  291 

Pie,  292 

Tomatoes,  Stuffed  with,  291 
Silver,  Choosing,  117 
Slaw,  Cabbage,  5 

Cabbage  and  Celery,  473 

Cold,  473-474 

Hot,  435-436 

Smelts,  Baked  Stuffed,  285 
Snow  Basket,  590 
Socket,  95 
Soda,    Baking,    in    Vegetables, 

II 
Sole,  Baked  Fillets  of,  286 

Fillets,  Greek  Style,  286-287 
Sorbet,  Apricot,  574 

Ginger,  139 
Sorrel,  449 
Souffles,  170,  183-187 

Cheese,  7,  184 

Chicken,  186 

Codfish,  Salt,  186-187 

Coffee,  187 

Crumb,  Baked,  184 

Fig,  187 

General  Directions  for,  183 

Halibut,  186 

Lemon,  Plain,  187 

Lobster,   186 

Omelet,  184 

Potato,  184 

Salmon,  186 

Spinach,  185 

Tomato,  185 

Yellow-Eyed  Bean,  185- 
Soups,  7,  n,  240-268 

a  la  Crecy,  253-254 

Asparagus,  Cream  of,  257 

Bean,  Baked,  249" 
Cream  of,  259 
Dried,  Canned,  696-697 
White,  249 

Bisque,  242,  262 
Black  Bean,  260 
Chestnut,  261 
Fish,  262 


Soups,  continued 

Lima  Bean,  261 

Macaroon,  578 

Peanut,  260-261 

Tomato,  255-256 
Bouillon,  Beef,  246 

Celery,  268 

Clam,  262-263 

Court,  263 

Oyster,  263 

Tomato,  247-248 
Cabbage,  Swedish,  250 
Cauliflower,  Thick,  353 
Celery, 

and  Oyster,  265 

Cream  of,  252,  257 

Rich,  257-258 
Chestnut,  251 

Chicken,  Cream  of,  252-253 
Chives,  259 
Clam,  Cream  of,  264 
Clear,  242-244,  246-248 
Consomme,  246 

Jellied,   Canned,  248 
Chicken,  248-249 

Iced  Veal,  249 
Cream,  240-242 

with  Stock,  252-253 

without  Stock,  255-260 
Cress,  Cream  of,  31,  252-253 
Cucumber,  255 
Fruit,  154-155 

General  Directions  for,  155 
Italian,  251 
Lentil,  256-257 
Lettuce,   Cream  of,  31,  254- 

255 

Milk,  2,  7,  18 
Mock  Turtle,  250-251 
Mushroom,  255 
Onion,  254 
Oxtail,  Thick,  342 
Oyster, 

Bouillon,  262 

Cream  of,  262 

Fancy,  263 

French,  263 

Stew,  265 

Oyster  Plant,  258-259 
Pea,  Dried  Canned,  646 

Green,  Cream  of,  250 

Split,  256 
Potato,  Cream  of,  259 


INDEX 


753 


Soups,  continued 

Pumpkin,  Cream  of,  258 

Purees,  242 

Bean,   Black,  260 

Lima,  260 
Chestnut,  261 
Peanut,  260-261 
Rice,  Milk,  680-681 
Salmon,  Cream  of,  263 
Scallop,  Cream  of,  264 
Spinach,  Cream  of,  31,  256 
Squash,  Cream  of,  258 
Stock,  2-3,   1 8,  31,  244-250 
Brown,  246-247 
Canned,  695-696 
Vegetable,  696 
Clearing,  245 
Substantial,  249-252 
Veal,  Cream  of,  254 
Vegetable,  Clear,  251 
White,  247 
Spaghetti,  2,  12 

Alia  Genoese,  165 

Garden  Style,  164-165 

Italian,  164 
with  Meat  Sauce,  164 

with  Broiled  Ham,  164 

Red  Kidney  Beans,  443 
Spices,  10 
Spinach,  2,  15-16,  30-31 

Creamed,  440 

Plain,  439-440 

Souffle,  185 

Ways  to  Serve,  30 
Sponges, 

Coffee,  517 

Cranberry,  54^547 

General  Directions  for,  542 

Grape,  545 

Strawberry,  545 
Spoonful,   To   Measure,    131- 

Spritbakelser,  617 
Squash,  12 

Baked,  423 
Stuffed  Summer,  423 

Fried  Summer,  423 

Muffins,  Raised,  206 

Steamed  Winter,  422,  423 

Summer,  Dried,  722 
Squirrel, 

Casserole  of,  378 

Stew,  377-378 


Starch,  Cookery  of,  12 

Foods,  2-5,  12,  38,  56 
Steak,  8,  14 
Braised,  Stuffed,  335 
Broiled,  334 
Flank,  318 
Hamburg,  337 
with  Baked  Macaroni,  337- 

33? 

Pan-Broiled,  334 
Pie,  336 
Planked,  334 
Potted,  335 

Round,  Italian,  334~335 
Swiss,  335-336 
Veal,  Italian,  351-352 
Steaming  Fish,  272 
Steelware,  77 
Sterilizing,  689 
Stewing,  Meat,  326 
Stews,  8 
Bread,  Tomato  and   Cheese, 

203 

Celery  with  Oyster,  265 
Oyster,  680 

Potato  with  Cheese,  404-405 
Squirrel,  377-37$ 
Stock- Pot,  244-245 
Stoves,  Gas,  89-91 
Strawberry,  Bavarian,  551 

Dumpling,  525 
Strawberries,  16,  144,  549 
au  Naturel,  148 
Baked  Preserved,  705-706 
Chocolate  Dipped,  649 
Frozen,  574 
Italian,  148 
Preserved,  704-705 
Strudel,  Apple,  641 
Stuffing  for  Birds,  365-366 
Bread,  365 
Chestnut,  365 
Chicken,  a  la  Royale,  371 
Malaga,  366 
Peanut  for  Duck,  366 
Potato  and   Walnut   for 

Goose,  366 
Prune,  365 
for  Fish,  286 

Succotash,  Old-Fashioned,  424 
Suet  and  Bread  Dumplings,  215 
Sugar,  3,  16,  33 
To  Caramelize,  68 


754 


INDEX 


Sulphur,  30-31 
Sundaes,  579-582 
Apple  Sauce,  580 
Baked  Apple,  580 
Banana,  581 

Charlotte  Russe,  580-581 
Chocolate,  580 
Nut,  580 
Peppermint,  580 
Daisy,  581 
Figolette,  582 
Fudge,   581 
Ginger,  581 
Maple,  580 
Cocoanut,  582 
Nut,  580 

Marshmallow,   Creamed,   580 
Orange  Marmalade,  581 
Peach,  Stuffed,  582 
Raisine,  582 
Sponge  Cake,  581 
Supper  Menus,  5,  56,  59-61 
After  Theater,  126 
for  Children,  46 
Sunday  Night,  125 
Surprise, 
Cream  Puff,  582 
Malaga  Fruit,  549~55O 
Sweetbreads,     and     Mushroom 

Ramekins,  355 
Breaded,  355 
Broiled,  354 
Lenten  Style,  355 
Timbales,  354~355 
Sweets,  as  Food,  2-5,  7,  12,  27, 

53 

Switch,  94 
Syrup, 

Chocolate,  137 

Coffee,  137 

Corn,  12 

Lemon,  138 

Maple,  138 
with  Baked  Apples,  150 

Orangeade,  138 

Pineapple,  138 

Stock,  137 

Vanilla,  138 


Tabasco,  69 


Table, 

of  Food  Values,  23-25 

Time    for    Cooking    Vegeta- 
bles, 412 
Canning,  692 
Fireless  Cookers,  102-103 
Frying,  302 

Setting  the,  117-118 
Taffy,  Molasses,  652 
Tapioca, 

Apple,  528 

Baked,  Caramel,  527-528 

Chocolate,  530 

Coffee,  529 
Moulded,  530 

Cream,  529-530 

Fig,  686 

Lemon,  528 

Peach,  528 
Tarragon,  71,  716 
Tart, 

Cranberry  and   Raisin,   636- 
637 

Fruit,  641 

Rhubarb,  636 
Tea,  2,  5,  18,  133 

Afternoon,  134 

Beef,  680 

Iced,  134 

Making,  133-134 
Tenderloins,  of  Beef,  Stanley, 

Terminals,  95 
Thermometer, 

How  to  Use  the  Bread,  189 

Sugar,  646 
Thyme,  71 

Tile-Fish,  Baked,  276 
Timbales, 

Bread  and  Ham,  212 

Ham,  379 

Swedish,  314-315 
•  Tinware,  75,  77 
Toast,  7 

Cinnamon,  232 

French,  231 

Milk  with  Poached  Eggs,  171 

Tomato  with  Poached  Eggs," 

172 

Tolland  Cup,  143 
Tomato, 

Bisque,  255-256 

Bouillon,  247-248 


INDEX 


755 


Tomato,  continued 

Bread  and  Cheese  Stew,  217 

Butter,  706-707 

Catsup,  715-716 

Chutney,  Sauce,  715 

Souffle,  185 
Tomatoes,  2 

as  Seasonings,  68 

Baked  Stuffed,  427 
with  Bacon,  427 

Frizzled  Dried  Beef,  427 

Escalloped  with  Onions,  426 
Whole      Wheat      Bread 
Crumbs,  426 

Fried,  426-427 

Mexican,  426 

Stewed  with  Onions,  426 

Stuffed  with  Shrimps,  291 

Thickened,  425 

with    White    Kidney    Beans, 

444 

Tongue,  Boiled  Pickled,  330 
German  Style,  330-331 

Creamed,  381 

Jellied,  331-332 

Potted,  331 
Tripe,  8 

Batter  for,  340-341 

Broiled,  340 

Creole,  341 

Curried,  341 

Fried  in  Batter,  340-341 
Trout, 

a  la  Game  Club,  288 

Baked  in  Milk,  287-288 
Turkey,  322 

Boiled,  374 
with  Oyster  Forcemeat,  374 

Roast,  374 

Trot,  384 
Turnips, 

Diced  Yellow,  416 

in  Beef  Broth,  416 
Turnovers, 

Fruit,  637 

Meat,  637 

U 

Unit,  04 
Utensils, 

Aluminum,  76 

Canning,  687-688 


Utensils,  continued 
Casserole,   105-106 
Chafing  Dish,  123-124 
Cooking  by  Steam,  111-113 
Drying,  717 
Evaporating,  717 
Fireless  Cooking,  103 
Frying,  301 
Glassware,  75-77 
Kitchen,  74 
Making  Cake,  583-584 
Wire,  77 
Woodenware,  77 


Veal, 

and  Oyster  Pie,  349 
Pork  Loaf,  350 

Baked  Chops,  351 

Bouillon,  Iced,  249 

Breaded,  Cutlets,  351 

Brown  en  Casserole,  349 

Buying  of,  321 

Canned,  698 

Cutting  of,  321 

Digestibility  of,  8 

Food  value  of,  7-8 

Fricandelles  of,  349-350 

Fricassee  of,  348 

in  Ramekins,  381 

Mexican  Style,  352 

Pie,  348-349 

Pot  Roast  of,  350 

Pressed,  350 

Rechauffe  of,  352 

Roast,  347-348 
under  Gas  Flame,  348 

Steak,  Italian,  351-352 

Stew,  348 

What  to  Serve  with,  62 
Vegetables,  408-446 

as  food,  10,  12,  15-16,  26 

Canning,  690-692 

Casserole  of,  ^vith  Ham,  440 

Composition  of,  409 

Cookery  of,  n,  404-412 

Dried,  441-446 

Drying  of,  717-722 

Evaporation  of,  717-722 

Fresh,  Food  value  of,  3,  30 

in  the  Diet,  33-34,  37~38 

Pulp  of,  Canned,  677 


756 


INDEX 


Vegetables,  continued 

Seasoning  of,  411 

Starchy,  2 

Steam  Cooking  of,  115 

Substitute  for  Meat,  411-412 

Sweet  Pickled,  713 

Time  Table  for  Cooking,  412 

Watery,  3,  15,  18 

Woody,  12 
Vermicelli,  12 
Vinegar,  14,  31 

Celery,  716 

Chervil,  716 

Garlic,  716 

Herb,  67-68,  716 

Mint,  76 

Nasturtium,  716 

Sour  Pickling,  710-711 

Sweet  Pickling,  711 

Tarragon,  716 
Vitamins,  26,  191 

W 

Wafers, 
Lemon,  612 
Nut,  612 

Old- Fashioned  Jelly,  657-658 
Rolled  Ginger,  615 
Marshmallow,  615 
Nut,  615 
Waffles,  225 

Walnuts,  Roast  Salted,  658-659 
Water, 

Amount  to  Drink,  18-19,  26, 
32 


Water,  continued 

Barley,  681-682 

Ices,  3,  18,  see  Ices 
Watercress,  30-31,  37 

Butter,  499 

Watermelon  Cup,  153 
Weeds,  Edible,  447-452 
Wheat, 

Cracked,  5-6 

Food  value  of,  12,  16 

Entire,  Bread,  196 
Whey,  2,  68 1 
Whips,  539-541 

Apple,  539 

Apricot,  539 

Cherry,  539 

Fig,  540 

Prune,  540 

Raspberry,  539 

Strawberry,  539 
Whisk,  Wire,  170-171 
Wintergreen,  452 

Drops,  650-651 
Wireware,  77 

Woodchuck,  Clover  Style,  376 
Woodenware,  77 
Worcestershire,  69 


Yeast,  188 
Breads,  188-217 
Compressed,    How    to    Use, 

189-190 
Dry,  190 


the 
American  Housewife 


THESE  pages  of  advertising 
have  been  added  as  an  after 
thought.  I  find,  as  I  go  on  my  way 
lecturing  to  hundreds  of  thousands 
of  women,  that  it  is  not  enough  to 
say,"  Use  so  much  of  a  certain  prod- 
uct, or  such  and  such  an  amount 
of  some  other  commodity."  They 
immediately  ask,  "What  kind  is 
best,  purest  and  most  economical  ?  " 

And  so  we  have  added  these  sug- 
gestive products,  all  of  which  are 
pure  according  to  the  Westfield 
standard,  —  the  highest  standard  of 
pure  idealism  that  has  ever  been 
established.  From  the  chemical 
side  the  foods  are  perfect;  from  the 
practical  side  they  give  excellent 
results.  Any  kitchen  equipment 
which  you  will  find  here  has  been 
tested  and  not  found  wanting. 

Ida  C.  Bailey  Allen 


Good  Cake  Is  Easy  to  Make 

Just  follow  instructions  in  this  book. 
Mrs.  Allen,  Mrs.  Rorer,  Mrs. 
McKenzie  Hill  and  other  experts 
use  and  recommend 

SWANS  DOWN 
CAKE  FLOUR 

You  will  never  know  just  how  good 
a  cake  you  can  make  until  you  use 
SWANS  DOWN  CAKE  FLOUR. 

Eat  plenty  of  Cake  —It  has 
more  food  value  than  Bread 

•  If  your  grocer  can  not 
supply  you,   write   us 

IGLEHEART  BROTHERS 

Evansville,  Ind. 

Established  1856 


Golden  Rule  Flavoring  Extracts 

were  awarded  the  Gold  Medal  at  the  Panama- Pacific  Ex- 
position, San  Francisco,  1915.  As  is  well  known,  the  com- 
petition at  this  exposition  represented  the  entire  world, 
and  it  should  be  very  gratifying  to  the  thousands  of  users 
of  Golden  Rule  Flavorings  to  know  that  this  award  has 
been  bestowed  upon  these  extracts.  This  award  is  not 
only  evidence  of  absolute  purity,  but  is  evidence  of  that 
which  is  often  of  far  more  importance,  *.  e.,  the  highest 
quality. 

<J  The  steadily  increasing  use  of  Golden  Rule  Flavorings 

is  additional  evidence  that  these  flavorings  are  unsur- 
passed for  purity,  strength,  flavor,  and  last,  but  not  least, 
lasting  quality.  They  have  won  the  approval  of  practically 
every  user  who  has  tried  them,  and  in  all  the  essential 
points  that  go  to  make  a  superfine  extract,  they  are  in 
a  class  by  themselves ;  and  while  we  call  attention  to  the 
superior  quality,  we  especially  want  to  bring  out  the  fact 
to  the  person  who  has  never  used  them  that,  owing  to  our 
method  of  doing  business  direct  with  the  consumer,  they 
are  sold  to  the  user  at  less  than  is  paid  for  ordinary  extracts. 

«j[  Golden  Rule  Flavorings  represent  the  last  word  in  econ- 
omy. The  products  most  generally  adulterated,  misrepre- 
sented, misbranded,  and  misused  are  flavorings. 

CJ  Golden  Rule  Flavorings  go  farther,  are  truer  in  flavor, 
and  contain  a  greater  percentage  of  the  desirable  con- 
stituents than  ninety-five  per  cent  of  the  goods  being  sold. 
May  be  had  in  all  flavors  —  the  vanilla,  lemon,  orange, 
almond,  and  tropical  fruits  being  especially  large  sellers. 

€J  MRS.  ALLEN  says :  "  I  have  never  seen  so  many  fine  extracts  of 
unusual  flavors  as  those  sold  by  this  firm.  The  price  and  quality 
of  Golden  Rule  Extracts  are  made  possible  only  by  immense 
manufacturing  operations  and  sale  direct  to  you.  They  would 
have  to  be  sold  at  almost  double  the  price  if  sold  through  the 
regular  broker-jobber-wholesaler-retailer-consumer  channel." 

€J  And  further  says :  "  If  you  are  fond  of  the  true  orange  flavor, 
try  the  Golden  Rule  Orange  Flavoring  in  cakes,  ices,  in  fact,  in 
anything,  and  you  will  pronounce  it  superior  to  the  flavor  you  are 
able  to  obtain  from  the  natural  fruit." 


Golden  Rule  Pure  Food  Products  are  sold  from  our  lab- 
oratories direct  to  you.    A  postal  will  bring  a  salesman. 

The  CITIZENS'  WHOLESALE  SUPPLY  CO. 

COLUMBUS.  OHIO 
The  Golden  Rule  House 


Beech-Nut 
Peanut  Butter 


BEECH-NUT  PEANUT  BUTTER  is 
a  household  product  that  you  should 
never  be  without.  "But  why  Beech- 
Nut  ? "  you  ask.  Because  it  is  made  from 
a  blend  of  only  the  finest  Spanish  and 
Virginia  nuts,  roasted  to  a  delicate  brown, 
the  bitter  hearts  removed,  crushed  to  a 
rich,  creamy  paste,  salted,  packed  in 
sterilized  jars  and  protected  by  the  orig- 
inal vacuum  seal. 

Beech-Nut  Peanut  Butter  is  rich  in  food 
value.  In  fact,  a  sandwich  of  Beech-Nut 
Peanut  Butter  is  equal  in  Strength,  Heat 
and  Energy  to  a  glass  of  full  cream  milk. 
Children  like  it  and  it  satisfactorily  solves 
the  question,  how  to  stop  them  from  eat- 
ing too  many  sweets.  While  in  soups, 
cakes,  bread  and  in  many  other  recipes  it 
is  a  delicious  ingredient. 

If  you  have  never  tried  Beech-Nut  Peanut 
Butter,  do  so  at  once.  If  you  do  you 
will  never  be  without  it.  -  Other  Beech- 
Nut  Products  of  quality  listed  below. 

Beech-Nut  Packing  Co. 

CANAJOHARIE,  N.  Y. 

Beech-Nut  Bacon  Beech-Nut  Beef 

Beech-Nut  Conserves  Beech-Nut  Catsup 

Beech-Nut  Chili  Sauce  Beech-Nut  Oscar's  Sauce 

BEECH-NUT    CONFECTIONS 

Sold   by  the  best  grocers  everywhere 


Self-Freezing 
Ice  Cream 


TODAY'S  method 
of  making  Ice 
Cream  is  automatic, 
accurate,  economical. 
There's  no  crank  to 
turn — no  labor — 
simply  fill  the  freezer 
and  forget  it  until  you 
want  to  serve  the 
smooth,  delicious  ice 
cream  it  produces.  Simplifies  ice-cream  making  in  the 
home.  Small,  compact,  cleanly,  sanitary  —  solid  steel 
construction  —  on/p  three  parts  —  white  enamel  finish 
throughout.  With  the 

Auto  Vacuum  Freezer 

you  can  make  and  serve  Ice  Cream  on  the  table.  Ideal 
for  picnics  and  auto  parties,  and  so  much  more  eco- 
nomical than  the  questionable  ice  cream  sold  by  caterers. 
You  f^now  what  is  in  ice  cream  made  at  home,  and 
now  you  can  enjoy  its  delights  in  the  home. 

6  Dish  Size,  $3.00 
12  Dish  Size,  $4.00 
Saves  its  price  in  the  cost  of  ice 

Virginia  Carter  Lee  says  that  the  Auto* Vacuum  Freezer, 
in  her  actual  tests,  saved  its  entire  cost  in  seven  months 
because  she  used  only  3c  worth  of  ice  in  the  Auto  Vac 
each  time  against  lOc  worth  in  the  old-style  crank 
freezers.  This  with  Ice  Cream  made*  twice  a  week. 

The  Auto  Vacuum  Freezer  appeal  is  Economy  —  a 
Saving  in  Time,  Labor  and  Ice  Consumption  plus  the 
most  delicious  Ice  Cream  and  Frozen  Desserts  you  ever 
tasted  if  you  follow  Marion  Harris  Neil's  recipes. 

MARIAN  HARRIS  NEIL  has  written  the  newest  ice  cream  book. 
Mrs.  Neil's  Book  is  considered  standard.  Many  improvements  in 
Ice-Cream  making  are  now  possible  by  the  Auto  Vacuum  Method. 
Your  copy  sent  FREE  if  you  write  now  and  mention  your  Dealer. 


AUTO  VACUUM  FREEZER  CO. 

25  W.  BROADWAY  NEW  YORK  CITY 


Union  Club  Coffee 

Double  X  Ground 
Free  from  Chaff 


Endorsed  by 
Food  Experts 


The  TRICOLATOR 

filters  coffee  through  filter 
paper  into  a  china  pot 


If  your  grocer  does  not  handle 

UNION  CLUB  COFFEE 

send  us  his  name  and  address.  We 
will  see  that  you  are  supplied 


Write  for  Free  Illustrated  Booklet 

The  Pure  Food  Method  of 
,  Coffee  Making 


CHARLES  G.  LINCOLN  &  CO.,  Inc. 

HARTFORD,  CONN. 

Members  National  Coffee  Roaster's  Association 


THE    PERFECT    BAKING    POWDER 


Ptftttti 


j[)URE  food  experts,  domestic  science  teachers 
./and  chefs  of  the  leading  hotels  and  clubs  of 
America  have  heartily  endorsed  RYZON,  The 
Perfect  Baking  Powder. 

As  all  RYZON  recipes  are  based  on  the  scien- 
tific level  measurement  standard,  RYZON  is  ad- 
mirably adapted  to  Mrs.  Allen's  recipes  in  this  book. 
Guesswork  is  eliminated  in  baking  with  RYZON. 

You  can  secure  additional  baking  recipes  by  us- 
ing the  RYZON  Baking  Book  (priced  at  $1.00), 
which  may  be  obtained  free  from  your  grocer  when 
you  make  your  first  purchase  of  one  pound  of 
RYZON  (35c).  If  your  grocer  does  not  supply 
you.  send  us  $1.00  and  you  will  receivea  pound  can  of 
RYZON  and  the  RYZON  Baking  Book  postpaid. 

GENERALXHEMICALtO. 

FOOD  DEPARTMENT 
NEW  YORK 


CJWith  a  supply  of  the  various  flavors  of  Jiffy- Jell  on  hand, 
numerous  dainties  are  always  at  your  command.  Most  of 
them  are  instantly  prepared. 

€][  The  true  fruit  flavors  of  Jiffy- Jell  cannot  deteriorate  because 
they  are  sealed  in  glass.  Each  package  contains  the  liquid 
flavor  in  a  separate  glass  vial.  They  are  not  scalded  in  making. 
You  add  the  flavor  when  the  jell  has  partly  cooled. 


Jiffy-Jell  Lemon  Pie 

1  package  Lemon  Jiffy-Jell  1  baked  pastry  shell 

1  or  2  egg  yolks  1  or  two  egg  whites 

fl  Prepare  Jiffy-Jell  as  directed  on  package,  then  pour  mixture  slowly  onto  the  egg 
yolks  well-beaten.  When  beginning  to  congeal,  pour  into  the  pastry  shell  and  just  before 
serving  top  with  the  egg  whites,  well  beaten  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar 
and  a  drop  of  lemon  extract.  Any  other  flavor  of  Jiffy-Jell  may  be  used  in  the  same 
way  as  a  fruity  pie  filler. 

Jiffy=Jell  Bavarian  with  Left=over  Cake 

1       package  Pineapple  or  Orange  Jiffy-Jell 

1  /^  cupfuls  crumbled  cake  crumbs,  any  kind 
H  cupful  cream  whipped 

<I  Prepare  the  Jiffy-Jell  as  directed  on  the  package,  using  only  one  and  a  half  cupfuls 
of  boiling  water.  When  this  is  beginning  to  congeal,  stir  in  the  crumbs  and  fold  in  the 
whipped  cream.  Pour  into  a  mould,  and  when  stiff,  turn  out  and  serve  with  or  without 
any  kind  of  fresh-sweetened  or  canned  fruit. 

Jiffy=JeIIied  Vegetables 

1       package  Lemon  Jiffy-Jell  1  tablespoonful  minced  green  pepper 

/-£  cupful  peas  Lettuce  or  cress 

J^  cupful  diced  cooked  carrots  Mayonnaise  or  Boiled  Salad  Dressing 

%  cupful  chopped  cabbage  or  celery        Balls  of  cottage  cheese 

3^  cupful  com  (optional) 

<I  Prepare  the  Jiffy-Jell  as  directed  on  the  package  and  when  it  is  beginning  to  solidify 
stir  in  the  vegetables.  Transfer  to  individual  moulds,  and  when  stiff  arrange  with  a 
garnish  of  the  green,  the  mayonnaise,  and  the  cheese. 

Mint  Aspic  Salad 

fl  Add  two  cups  of  boiling  water  to  one  package  of  Mint  Jiffy-Jell.  When  partially 
cool  add  a  sprig  of  parsley  chopped  very  fine,  one  bay  leaf,  juice  of  one-half  lemon,  a 
dash  of  salt  and  red  pepper,  and  one  cup  of  diced  cooked  pineapple.  Add  Mint  flavor 
in  vial  and  congeal.  Serve  with  mayonnaise  topped  with  a  creme-de-menthe  cherry. 

Mint  Cherry  Salad 

flf  Dissolve  one  package  of  Mint  Jiffy-Jell  in  2  cups  of  boiling  water ;  when  nearly 
cold  add  the  Mint  flavor  in  vial,  also  1  cup  of  white  cherries  (stoned  and  chopped) 
which  have  been  well  drained,  1  cup  of  pecan  meats,  1  cup  of  marshmallows  cut  in 
quarters.  Serve  with  mayonnaise  and  creme-de-menthe  cherries. 

Mint  Apple  Jelly 

<I  When  making  apple  jelly  pour  one  pint  of  the  jelly,  just  before  it  is  ready  to  take  from 
the  fire,  over  a  package  of  Mint  Jiffy-Jell.  Allow  to  cook  slightly,  then  add  the  flavor 
in  the  vial.  This  produces  an  apple  jelly  with  a  delicious  "  new"  flavor. 

Orange  Mint  Dessert 

<I  Prepare  Orange  Jiffy-Jell  as  directed  on  package,  also  a  package  of  Mint  Jiffy 
Jell.  When  it  begins  to  congeal  pour  alternate  layers  into  a  mould,  making  two  layers  of 
Orange  to  one  of  Mint.  Serve  with  whipped  cream,  sprinkled  with  crystallized  mint 
leaves  or  with  a  cherry. 


"Wear-Ever" 

Aluminum  Cooking  Utensils 

Save  money  and  make  your  work  easy 

H.They  save  money  because  they  absorb  the  heat  quickly  and 
retain  it  Place  a  "  Wear-Ever  "  utensil  over  a  flame  of  or- 
dinary height.  As  soon  as  the  food  is  thoroughly  heated, 
turn  down  the  flame,  one-third  or  one-half.  The  food  will 
continue  to  cook,  and  you  will  reduce  your  fuel  bills. 

CThen,  too,  their  wonderful  durability  eliminates  the  ex- 
pense and  annoyance  of  continually  buying  new  cooking 
utensils.  They  cannot  rust,  chip,  or  crack. 

€LThey  make  your  work  easy  because  they  are  light  to  handle, 
require  little  or  no  stirring  for  even  the  most  delicate  foods, 
and  are  easy  to  keep  clean. 

"Wear-Ever" 

Aluminum  Roaster 

Makes  possible  the  prepa- 
ration of  an  entire  meal  in 
oven  or  on  top  of  stove;  all 
at  one  time  —  a  delicious 
roast,    baked   potatoes, 
macaroni,  and  even  a  des- 
sert such  as  baked  apples, 
rice  pudding,  etc.    The  "  Wear- 
Ever  "  Aluminum  Roaster  also  can 
be  used  for  frying  doughnuts  and  crul- 
lers, for  baking  bread,  for  steaming  fruit,  and  as  a  bread  or  cake  box. 

"Wear-Ever" 

Double  Boiler 

Makes  easy  the  preparation  of  delicious 
cereals  and  insures  perfect  results. 


Simply  place  water  in  the  lower  saucepan, 
place  cereal  in  upper  saucepan,  and  let  boil 
for  about  fifteen  minutes.  The  cereal  will 
be  deliciously  soft  and  creamy. 

You  can  also  cook  the  most  delicate  sauces 
in  the  "Wear-Ever"  Aluminum  Double 
Boiler  without  fear  of  burning. 


Replace  utensils  that  wear  out 
with  utensils  that  "Wear-Ever" 

Sold  by  leading  Department,  House-furnishings  and  Hardware  stores 

THE  ALUMINUM  COOKING  UTENSIL  CO. 

New  Kensington,  Pa. 


Golden  Rule  Olive  Oil 

<Q  Golden  Rule  Olive  Oil,  one  'of  the  finest  oils  coming  to 
this  market  at  a  price  easily  within  the  range  of  the 
consumer. 

€][  MRS.  ALLEN  says :  "  Many  say  they  '  do  not  like '  Olive  Oil, 
and  yet  they  have  never  tasted  the  perfect  'product.  Golden 
Rule  Olive  Oil  is  the  best  that  can  be  obtained,  and  because  it  is 
good,  is  heavy,  clear,  and  of  very  delicate  flavor.  It  is  always 
fresh,  and  so  digestible  that  it  can  be  given  to  the  smallest  child. 
In  fact,  my  sturdy  year-old  son  '  licks  the  spoon '  when  he  has  his 
daily  ration  of  one  teaspoon  of  Golden  Rule  Olive  Oil,  and  his 
firm  flesh  and  perfect  digestion  pay  a  tribute  to  this  wonderful 
food." 

<J  We  can  add  nothing  to  this  statement,  except  that  we 
are  sure  your  experience  with  Golden  Rule  Olive  Oil 

will  be  the  same  as  Mrs.  Allen's. 

<J  Olive  Oil  is  becoming  recognized  more  and  more  as  the 
ideal  food  in  many  conditions,  and  the  use  of  a  pure,  well- 
flavored  oil  is  highly  recommended. 


Golden-Rule  M  arshmallow  Creme 

CJ  This  thoroughly  useful  preparation  is  a  splendid  aid  in 
frostings,  topping  for  chocolate,  puddings,  sauces,  desserts, 
candy-making,  etc.  It  is  an  ever-ready  household  help 
—  a  splendid  thing  to  have  on  hand  in  an  emergency,  as 
it  may  be  made  to  take  the  place  of  eggs,  cream,  milk, 
sugar,  and  syrup;  it  is  pure,  delicious,  appetizing,  and 
economical.  A  trial  can  will  convince  anyone  of  its  won- 
derful possibilities. 

<jf  Highly  recommended  by  Mrs.  Allen  as  an  aid  in  making 
both  hot  and  cold  cake  frostings.  Contains  the  whites 
of  eggs,  syrup,  vegetable  gums,  and  honey.  Pure  and 
wholesome. 

Golden  Rule  Pure  Food  Products  are  sold  from  our  lab- 
oratories direct  to  you.  A  postal  will  bring  a  salesman. 


The  CITIZENS'  WHOLESALE  SUPPLY  CO. 

COLUMBUS,  OHIO 
The  Golden  Rule  House 


DELICIOUS 


WHOLESOME 


NUTRITIOUS 


JELKE 


MARGARINE 


The  Finest  Spread  for  Bread 


Use  GOOD  LUCK  in  any  of  the  recipes  in  this 
book,  but  on  account  of  the  greater  shorten- 
ing value  of  GOOD  LUCK  use  one  fourth  less 
than  amount  of  butter  specified.  Takes  the 
place  of  butter  perfectly  in  cooking. 


As  a  spread  for  bread 

GOOD  LUCK 

is  unequaled.  Try  it 
on  your  next  slice 
of  bread  and  be 
convinced. 

Ask  Your  Dealer 

If  he  cannot 
supply  you,  write 

JOHN  F.  JELKE  COMPANY 

CHICAGO 


mi 

WWI 


Golden  Rule  Spices 

HP  HE  terms  spices  and  condiments  are  applied  to  those 
<••  articles  which,  while  possessing  in  themselves  no  nutri- 
tious principles,  are  added  to  food  to  make  it  more  palat- 
able and  to  stimulate  digestion.  They  are  of  exclusively 
vegetable  origin,  and  occupy  an  important  position  in  the 
diet  qf  the  human  race. 

<I  Golden  Rule  Spices  represent  the  finest  spices  grown. 
They  are  selected  from  the  highest-grade  goods  from  all 
over  the  world.  They  must  not  only  pass  our  standard 
for  natural  aromatic  properties,  but  must  also  pass  our 
standard  for  quality  of  flavor.  Every  housewife  knows  that 
many  spices  are  almost  tasteless,  lack  pungency,  and  de- 
teriorate very  rapidly.  These  conditions  are  due  to  the 
fact  that  the  spices  were  poor  and  lacked  quality  at  the 
time  of  picking.  Spices  are  just  like  apples  and  are  graded 
in  exactly  the  same  way,  and  to  compare  Golden  Rule 
Spices  with  many  others  is  like  comparing  a  delicious, 
juicy  Northern  Spy  apple  with  an  ordinary  Ben  Davis. 
Both  may  be  pure,  but  what  a  difference! 

<I  Our  Milling  Department  is  one  of  the  most  complete 
and  up-to-date  in  the  country,  and  the  man  in  charge  of 
this  department  has  had  over  thirty  years'  experience  in 
spice  milling.  No  inert  spices,  no  exhausted  spices,  nor 
crude  fiber  strings  are  found  in  spices  under  the  Golden 
Rule  label.  They  represent  all  of  the  aromatic  flavoring 
principles. 

<J  Prof.  LEWIS  B.  ALLYN,  the  famous  Westfield  pure-food 
expert,  has  said  of  Golden  Rule  goods: 

<I  "After  going  rather  deeply  into  the  matter,  we  can  state  with 
pleasure  that  we  have  never  examined  a  line  of  goods  which  rate 
as  a  whole,  better  than  your  Golden  Rule  Products. 

€J  "  Those  that  we  have  examined  were  not  only  legally  pure,  but 
were,  what  is  of  almost  equal  importance  —  of  distinctly  high  grade. 
They  rank  sufficiently  high  to  be  given  a  place  in  our  Pure  Food 
Display. 

€J"The  term  'Golden  Rule'  is  a  good  term  to  apply  to  these 
products." 

<J  The  high  endorsement  given  by  Prof.  ALLYN  is  absolute 
proof  of  not  only  their  purity,  but  their  quality. 


Golden  Rule  Pure  Food  Products  are  sold  from  our  lab- 
oratories direct  to  you.   A  postal  will  bring  a  salesman. 

The  CITIZENS'  WHOLESALE  SUPPLY  CO. 

COLUMBUS,  OHIO 
The  Golden  Rale  House 


jleischmanns 

J 


Can  You 
Make  Bread 


THE  measure  of  the 
good  cook  is  the  kind 
of  bread  she  can  make. 
Our  latest  cookery  book- 
let, "  Fleischmann's  Re- 
cipes," tells  how  to  make 
bread  of  several  varieties, 
as  well  as  rolls,  buns, 
muffins,  and  other  good 
things.  Free  copy  sent 
you  upon  request. 


THE  FLEISCHMANN  CO. 

701  Washington  Street  NEW  YORK,  N.  Y. 


Send  for  COMPLETE  DESCRIPTIVE  CATALOGUE 
of  the  books  of 

Travel,  Description  and 
Adventure;  Art,  Music 
and  Drama;  History  and 
Biography;  Social  Science 
and  Politics;  Belles-Let- 
tres;  Humor;  Religion; 
Philosophy  and  Psychical 
Research;  Poetry;  Books 
of  Fiction  and  Books  for 
Boys  and  Girls. 

Published  by 

SMALL,    MAYNARD    &    COMPANY 

BOSTON 


Mrs.  Ida  C.  Bailey  Allen 

Lecturer  on 
HOME  ECONOMICS 
DIETETICS  Gf  COOKING 

Headliner,  RED  PATH  CHAUTAUQUAS 


Single  Lectures,  or  Lecture  Courses 
for  Clubs  and  other  Organizations 
on  such  Topics  as  the  following : 

SHORT  CUTS  IN  COOKERY 
FEEDING  FOR  EFFICIENCY 
POTATO  PEELINGS  AND  PARSIMONY 
MRS.  UNCLE  SAM  WADES  IN 
THE  AGE  OF  THE  GOLDEN  CALF 
TtJE  FINE  ART  OF  ENTERTAINING 
HOUSEKEEPING  — A  PROFESSION 


For  terms^  open  dates  and  other  particulars, 
address 

MRS.  IDA  C.  BAILEY  ALLEN 

Care  SMALL,  MAYNARD  &  COMPANY 
BOSTON,   MASS. 


MEMORANDA 


MEMORANDA 


RETURN 
TO 


MARIAN  KOSHLAND  BIOSCIENCE  AND 
NATURAL  RESOURCE  LIBRARY 

2101  Valley  Life  Sciences  Bldg.   642-253^ 

LOAN  PERIOD 

7  DAYS 


ALL 


BOOKS  MAY  BE  RECALLED  AFTER  7  DAYS. 


SUBJECTTQR! 


FO 


FORM  NO.  DD  8 
24M    4-00 


®s 


U.C.  BERKELEY  LIBRARIES 


